Wandering Voyager

Hong Kong: Concrete Jungle

noreply@blogger.com (Munya) — Thu, 05 Apr 2018 03:55:00 +0000

Growing up, my mom would regale us with tales from her high school days growing up in India. Part of that adventure included some amazing world travels: Afghanistan, Nepal, and Hong Kong, for example. I was always intrigued by her accounts of Hong Kong and dreamed of someday seeing it for myself. That someday was February 2017, on my way back from Vietnam.

Upon landing, I bought an Oyster Card and took the Airport Express, Hong Kong's super fast and modern train between the airport and Kowloon/Hong Kong island. Bonus: great free wi-fi. I got off at the Kowloon and then took the K3 shuttle to the Holiday Inn stop and walked to my hostel around the corner. I checked into my hostel in the central Tsim Sha Tsui (TST) neighborhood of Kowloon and knew it wasn't going to be a place to meet people. (None of my roommates were ever there and there was no social space/common area.) Wanting to go out and explore the city, but also have a travel buddy, I did what any normal person would do- scroll Tinder. After weeding out the standard creepers (No, dude, I'm not going to answer whether my room in my hostel is a solo room or not), I found David, a nice enough looking guy also from Seattle and in town for a few days. After a brief back-and-forth chat, we found out that our hostels were both located in the same high rise tower so he elevator-ed up to our floor and we set out to explore the city just in time for happy hour. First stop? Butler, a Japanese cocktail bar within a stone's throw from our building. We whisked ourselves up the elevator to a formal space and sat at the counter. The formal service included hot towels to start and an expertly-concocted shiso mojito which the bartender began by carving the ice by hand. After that first drink, we went upstairs to the next bar, Buonasera, where we received more hot towels and this time I opted for a glass of cava. Seeing as it was a Saturday night, a trip to Lan Kwai Fong (the nightlife district) was in the cards so we took the highly efficient MTR and pretty soon we were imbibing in tangy gin cocktails at Ori-gin.

I had Sunday morning to myself to wander and decided on venturing to the Mong Kok neighborhood, a cool area also on the Kowloon side. I had read about the breakfast at Kam Wah Cafe and it was hard to find because the sign was in Chinese only, but once I arrived, I knew I was in a solid place. A stern-looking elderly woman brusquely seated me at a table with a man and his young daughter. Going off the online recommendations, I settled on milk tea, an egg tart (Portuguese influence), and a DELICIOUS warm pineapple bun which I still dream of to this day. After this excellent sustenance, I headed out to explore the streets of Mong Kok. Just like Hanoi, many of the streets were dedicated to selling one type of item. There was Goldfish street, Flower street, Sneaker street, Ladies street, etc. There were some fun little street markets and I bargained for what was probably a fake jade bracelet, but pretty nonetheless! Afterwards, I took theMTR to Soho (Central station) for fancy window shopping and neat boutiques like Seed Heritage, an Aussie label. The Mid Way escalator, the world's longest outdoor escalator, happened to be on the way to my meeting point with David, my travel friend from the night before so I hopped on it to reach the Cupping Room, a nice coffee shop. We explored the Soho area, checked out the medicinal herb shops near Des Voeux Road where we also saw dried fish hanging from the street, stepped into a neat temple, checked out a street market and stopped for some a snack where a woman was slicing into the biggest jackfruit I had ever seen. We went to a noodle place on Hennessy for hot and spicy lamb noodles and ventured down the street to Hui Lau Shan for mango sago, a quintessential Hong Kong dessert. We then walked all the way to Victoria Peak (the line for the tram was well over an hour)-what a steep climb but boy was it worth it! At the top of Victoria Peak, we had Prosecco at a Japanese place and decided to take an old school Hong Kong taxi back to Soho/Hollywood Road. We put our name on the list at Ho Lee Fook (a buzzing restaurant), and then went to La Cabane, a French wine bar around the corner where I sipped on white wine while we waited for our table to be ready. The dinner at Ho Lee Fook did not disappoint. Highlights included amazing spicy chicken wings, delicious and moist roasted goose with plum sauce, oysters and shanghai noodles with nori (great umami).

Monday morning: another day, another MTR ride- back to Soho for some Earl Grey tea. There's nothing like Asia malls so I wandered around IFC Mall getting hopelessly lost while attempting to find the General Post Office where I could mail my post cards. After endless circling, my mail was sent off and I met David at the Four Seasons for lunch at Lung King Heen, a 3 star Michelin restaurant (and my first Michelin star restaurant, period). Word was that lunch was the secret to having an affordable meal and it was reasonable overall. We started off with puer tea, and then selected the executive lunch which included dim sum (beef dumpling with kimchee and a shrimp dumpling), jellyfish (the texture was not for me), roasted goose (one of my favorite Hong Kong dishes), soup, stir-fried quail, and noodles with lobster (too rich, especially for lunch). The meal was rounded out with petit fours and the ubiquitous mango sago. While I'm not too keen on stuffy restaurants and a bunch of showy presentations, it was a fun experience overall. The service was professional but bordering on overly attentive and fussy (they seemed to come by to refill our tea after each sip!) and I'd wager to say that our meal at Ho Lee Fook the evening before was way better. But alas.

No trip to Hong Kong would be complete without a ride on a boat, so we took the Star Ferry back to the Kowloon side for some more exploring. Jasmine's account of the Chungking Mansions intrigued me so that was first on our list (it was just down the street from our hostel building). It is a labyrinth inside! People loiter about the first floor hawking everything from samosas to suitcases to SIM cards to bootleg Bollywood films and everything in between. The smell of competing curries filled the air with stalls selling Indian food. The massive building contains crazy elevators (organized by "blocks" and waits). We took an elevator up after getting lost/trapped in the stairwell and snooped around the hallways. It appeared to be mostly just cheap guest houses everywhere. CCTV cameras were installed recently and you can see them when waiting for the elevators (you can see the people inside the elevators as well as outside the elevator on each floor). Again, an interesting experience!After being cooped up in the mansions, some outdoor time was called for so we walked to nearby Kowloon park and took in some urban nature and saw some cool birds at the aviary. After a quick freshen-up sesh at the hostel, we headed out to Central/Soho yet again for some pre-dinner drinks. Stop one: Quinary Bar for a delicious Pisco lime sour. Stop two: 121bc for a glass of Friulano. Yard Bird was on our list of places to eat but there was a wait so we put our name on the list. A brief stop at Stazione Novella for a glass of Gavi and we were pretty hungry so we stopped at Little Bao restaurant. Yard Bird ended up calling us but we decided to stay at Little Bao and it was a great dinner. We sat at the bar and had tasty smoked eggplant salad w/yogurt and fried Szechuan chicken bao washed down with a glass of sauvignon blanc. Dessert was green tea bao (fried) with condensed milk. All delicious! Ryan, our server, was from HK but had also lived in CA and Vancouver and an interesting person to chat to. He gave us some good recommendations for where to go next. We ended up at The Pontiac (apparently all the HK bartenders go there). We drank more white wine, took in the interesting interior (bras were hanging from the bar) and there was even a Frida Kahlo-inspired bathroom. The bartenders shared some friend shrimp-chocolate (??) snacks with us and recommended Iron Fairies bar (just down the street in an alley) so we headed down there next for live jazz and drinks. The interior of this place alone and the live jazz was worth checking out. After all that wine it was homemade ginger beer for me. The next morning I headed back home on a direct flight to Seattle but I'd say the Hong Kong trip was a success and I'd love to return!

Lan Kwai Fong drinks at Ori-gin

Best brekkie in Hong Kong at Kam Wah Cafe

Mong Kok shopfronts: goldfish/flowers

Art everywhere you look

Hong Kong's beautiful pastels

Temple visits

Des Voeux Road aka "Dried Seafood Street"

Worth the climb up to Victoria Peak!

Sunset views (from the other side of Victoria Peak)

Beautiful city at night

Ho Lee Fook restaurant (left: life-changing chicken wings, right: amazing roast goose w/plum sauce)

Tea at Cupping Room

Michelin-star experience

Ferry views

Chunking Mansions

More mansion madness

Garden tranquility

Bye for now, HK!

Eating in Vietnam: a food diary

noreply@blogger.com (Munya) — Wed, 10 May 2017 04:49:00 +0000

Bun cha breakfast and spring rolls (from 27 Dao Duy Tu)

Last fall when Jasmine and I began talking about a potential Vietnam trip, I started getting excited about all the food we would eat. A big inspiration for the trip was the caving trek, but as long as I could get in a few bowls of bun cha and pho, I was down. In seven days, we did our best to sample as many dishes as we could. Here goes!

Egg coffee from Cafe Giang, the place it was purportedly invented

It's no secret that I'm not a coffee drinker, but I'm always game to try anything when traveling, including the intriguing-sounding "egg coffee" that graces many of Hanoi's cafes. It was just the perfect drink for me, as the creaminess/custard quality of the egg masked the bitter taste of coffee beans. If you're a coffee purist, you might scoff at this creation, but it certainly provided a nice buzz of energy nonetheless. As the story goes, egg coffee came about in Hanoi during the mid-20th century when milk was scarce and egg provided a creamier (and tastier, if you ask me) alternative. It's stuck around and you can find many egg coffee cafes in Hanoi. It comes in an espresso size cup which is then placed in a slightly wider and more shallow cup filled with hot water to keep its temperature warm.

One dish of from our multi course dinner at Koto

Koto (Know One Teach One) is a social enterprise founded by a Vietnamese-Australian fellow whose aim is to empower at-risk and underprivileged youth by giving them useful training in hospitality so that they can improve their lives. We enjoyed a satisfying multi-course prix fixe meal from appetizers to dessert.

Drinks at Sofitel's Bamboo Bar, a beautiful colonial-style outdoor bar with wooden ceiling fans, dim lighting, and strong drinks

Lunch at State Run Food Shop 37 (ration tickets)

State Run Food Shop 37 models itself after the government-run restaurants during the austerity period beginning in 1976. You purchase ration coupons (as seen in the picture below) which go towards your meal.

Clockwise from top: interior of the restaurant; the tables were made out of repurposed Singer sewing machines (!); the exterior of the restaurant

Lunch: fried morning glory (our "birth" flower, haha), spring rolls, rice, etc.

Beef pho and fried dough at Pho 10, a no frills, very efficient corner restaurant our Airbnb host recommend to us

Breakfast on deck on our Halong Bay cruise

We had some time to kill (before heading to the train station) after we got back to Hanoi, so we went to another place for egg coffee. Not quite as good as Cafe Giang, but still did the trick.

Next stop? Central Vietnam (Phong Nha National park area) where we spent the first night in Phong Nha town. The following day we started our two day cave trekking adventure (for more, read Jasmine's amazing account on her blog here). As we entered our first cave, it was impossible to miss the lunch spread that was laid out across a tarp. We rolled our own spring rolls, made banh mi, peeled tiny, sweet-as-can-be oranges and capped off our meal with Choco pie, a Vietnamese delicacy. ;)

Our clothes at the campsite

At the end of the first day, we went for a quick dip in the ice cold waters at our campsite, and hung our muddy clothes to "dry" before the following day's trek. (Spoiler alert: one night in February is not nearly long (or warm) enough to render clothes dry.) We meandered around the camp site, set up our sleeping bags, and got ready for our group dinner.

Pre-dip!

Brrr!

The Oxalis cooks were talented- whipping up everything from grilled meats cooked over open coals for dinner to homemade crêpes in the morning.

Video of cooking in action

Just a sampling of our amazing dinner cooked outside: homemade French fries, tofu topped with flavorful tomato sauce, rice, grilled eggplant, chicken, soup, steamed greens, delicious cabbage. They also gave us local "moonshine" aka rice wine that could knock your socks off.

Guava with salt dip and jackfruit for dessert

Day two of trek: Breakfast consisted of fresh crêpes with lime, sugar, & banana, piping hot noodles, assorted tropical fruit, and hot ginger tea before we embarked on the more challenging trek of the two days

A digression from the food: on day two of our trek, we awoke in our tents and set out putting on our clothes for the day. Since Jasmine and I were paranoid about leeches (from the group we met at our homestay two nights before), so I decided to reach my hands into my muddy boots before putting them on in case there were any leftover from the previous day's muddy trek. I felt something rubbery and immediately pulled my hand out only to see a huge spider in my boot. I screamed and tossed the shoe a good 10 feet. Bao, our guide, came over and was able to knock the spider out of my boot, while remarking, "Oh yeah, that's definitely poisonous." What a fright.

The day two trek was an experience from start to finish and it was the the perfect blend of adventure, unknowns, and challenges without seeming impossible. By the end of the second day, we were exhausted but felt like we'd accomplished so much. Back at base camp, we showered off two days worth of caked-on mud (quite possibly one of the best showers of my life) and packed up our stuff before the Oxalis van took us down the dirt road to a local family's home for one final meal as a group. We cracked open cans of refreshing cold Coke as we slurped on mi quang, a savory soup of thick noodles, tomatoes, tofu, crushed peanuts, herbs, limes, and chili. According to Bao, our jack-of-all-trades trek leader, the dish is originally from Hoi An but served in a smaller bowl there.

(Aside: As delicious as the bowl pictured above was, it was quite likely the culprit of Jasmine's intense food poisoning which she had to endure over the course of our 10+ hr train ride back to Hanoi!!!)

A few other memorable food experiences with sadly either no pictures or address (or either):

Milky tea outside a random cafe in Hanoi
Gin and tonic on the terrace outside Tadioto, a cute bar in Hanoi
Beer corner (Bia corner) in Hanoi for more G and Ts
Delicious beef noodle soup at an makeshift place on the sidewalk near Beer Corner. No sooner than I could finish the bowl did the cops shut down the place and make the owner dismantle his impromptu "restaurant"
Sidewalk Banh mi at an inconspicuous food cart in Hanoi
Delicious strawberry smoothie across the street from said unmarked banh mi shop
Vietnamese coffee at Kafe village
Drinks at Avalon BBQ rooftop over Hoang Kiem Lake (drinks are nothing to write home about but the view is quite pleasant)
Happy hour (buy one, get one free wine) during our Valentine's Day Halong Bay cruise with 60-something Europeans
Banana peanut butter smoothie at Bamboo Cafe in downtown Phong Nha
White wine in front of river at our Oxalis guesthouse in Phong Nha (not memorable but it was locally made, from Dalat)
Tasty BBQ dinner at Oxalis guesthouse's Expedition Cafe

A few random, non-food observations:

The address plates in Hanoi were identical to those in Paris, a random remnant of colonization?

Constant smog and haze blanketed Hanoi's skies so that we never saw a clear day

Motorbike drivers carried the randomest of items including extremely bulky, full-size trees

Little stools are the way to go for sidewalk eating- great for a short person like me!

And finally- many streets in Hanoi are dedicated to selling solely one item, i.e. Mirror Street (pictured above), Sunglass Street, etc.

What an adventure. Vietnam, I hope to return!

Flavio al Velavevodetto in Rome

noreply@blogger.com (Munya) — Thu, 20 Apr 2017 01:23:00 +0000

Flavio al Velavevodetto is an experience from start to finish. The restaurant is located in Rome's Testaccio neighborhood, which was just across the river from where were staying, and the setting is beautiful. If you're dining there in the summer, I recommend the patio which is surrounded by flowers. Each of the pasta dishes we had was superb including the summery tomato one above. You won't regret their take on cacio e pepe as well.

We wanted to try a Lazio wine and the lore of "Est! Est! Est!" always intrigued me, but we were a little disappointed in the one above. The first bottle tasted corked and the servers agreed, but the second bottle wasn't much better. I'd heard that service here could be hit or miss and while some of the people were a bit stuffy, we had an enjoyable dinner. Reservations are essential so call ahead.

Copenhagen Guide

noreply@blogger.com (Munya) — Sat, 31 Dec 2016 06:38:00 +0000

Necessary attire for my free walking tour

Gearing up for an outdoor concert at the museum

Moving exhibit at the Louisiana Museum

Top-notch yogurt at my home-away-from-hostel, Kompa'9

Coming from Tunisia this past August, Copenhagen was a complete change (including the unseasonably dreary weather) but I embraced the Scandinavian city and tried to find my inner hygge!*

Where I stayed: Copenhagen Downtown Hostel

PROS: good location, nightly family dinner for a nominal fee, luggage storage for a fee

CONS: very big and informal, pricey

Good places to eat/drink

Kompa'9- quaint breakfast/lunch spot for decked-out yogurt, good coffee/tea, delicious unfiltered apple juice, friendly service, and free wi-fi, all in a very Scandinavian pinterest-esque setting
Torvehallerne Market for smørrebrød, aka open-faced sandwiches, at Hallernes
Streetfood on Paper Island for great international food (I heard from several people that it may be closing so get there quick)
Ruby for excellent craft cocktails. I walked past the place twice thinking I was lost. The signage to this place is very discreet- if the sign says you're at the Georgian embassy, you've come to the right place. Just take the first right once inside the building, sit at the bar, and watch the mixologists do their magic.

Things to do:

Nyhavn- walk around the harbor and take in the picturesque buildings
Louisiana Museum- this may be one of my favorite museums ever, as the entire grounds make up the museum and there is art and beauty to take in whether you are inside at an exhibition, or outside enjoying the seaside, sculptures, and live music that I was lucky to enjoy. (Yayoi Kusama's "Gleaming Lights of the Souls" is a favorite exhibition.)
Tivoli Gardens- has bragging rights as the world's second oldest amusement park (the other one also in Denmark). Come here to test your fear of heights, listen to live music, stroll through the gardens, and relive your childhood.

Interesting observation:

*On my free walking tour, I learned more about the danish concept of "hygge" which very loosely translates to cosiness (although it seems difficult to translate). Visit Denmark says that hygge "is as Danish as pork roast and it goes far in illuminating the Danish soul. In essence, hygge means creating a warm atmosphere and enjoying the good things in life with good people. The warm glow of candlelight is hygge. Friends and family – that’s hygge too. There's nothing more hygge than sitting round a table, discussing the big and small things in life." For whatever reason, hygge seems to be all the rage now thanks to a recent New York Times article.

Torvehallerne

Can't go to Denmark without having smørrebrød

Rooftop views in Copenhagen

Tivoli Gardens madness- somehow I thought getting on this torture device would be fun

Craft cocktails at Ruby

On the left: a "postie fizz" containing homemade rhubarb syrup, geranium leaves, blanca rum, lemon juice, egg white, and soda water

On the right: a "green bees" made up of pisco, thyme, sorrel, and honey

Cooking Class in Malaga

noreply@blogger.com (Munya) — Thu, 20 Oct 2016 17:03:00 +0000

It's no secret that I love food tours and have written about my positive experiences with them here, here, here, and here. This past August, I really wanted to do a food tour with Devour Malaga, the same company I used for my amazing tours in Madrid and Barcelona. Unfortunately, due to the Malaga feria (a crazy shit show of a "festival" which merits its own post), no tours were operating that week. After a little online sleuthing, I was happy to discover a company called Spain Food Sherpas that was offering a tapas cooking class so I quickly signed up along with three of my travel buddies.

The cooking school is located in the funky art district of Malaga and we were led there by Mayte, a Spain Food Sherpas representative. The kitchen is open, airy, and spacious, and there were multiple stations which allowed each group to contibute to the cooking process. Before starting the cooking portion of the class, however, we enjoyed an extra virgin olive oil tasting of different Spanish oils ranging from grassy to peppery.

A wonderful mother-son duo were our teachers for the day, showing us how to prepare fresh gazpacho, prawns al pil-pil, Spanish omelette, and meatballs with a traditional almond sauce. I really enjoyed how hands-on the class was, with plenty of opportunity for interaction with the teachers. The highlight was sitting at the table and trying our dishes, sipping on refreshing local white wine from Antequera, and enjoying the company of the other participants, who were from England/Ireland and Germany. The day after the class, we received the recipes in our inbox and I plan on making everything soon. I highly recommend Spain Food Sherpas if you're looking for a food experience in Malaga!

Video of gambas sizzling in action

East coast style subs

noreply@blogger.com (Munya) — Thu, 20 Oct 2016 16:41:00 +0000

Growing up with a mother from Massachusetts, I spent my fair share of vacations in the state. One of the best things about returning to her oceanside hometown is the obligatory visit to Victoria's Subs in in Hingham (the next town over). It's a no-frills joint and one of many excellent sub shops that dot New England towns all the way up to Maine. Locals know to call in their orders ahead of time and I have always the same thing waiting for me: roast beef with provolone, lettuce, tomato, onions, "hots", oil, and spices. Cape Cod potato chips are a must as well. The subs at Victoria's are so good that I, along with the rest of their large clientele, put up with the snarling, grumpy man behind the counter. You'll want to do the same should you find yourself in these parts.

Victoria's Subs is located at 345 Rockland Street in Hingham, MA.

Our last visit was in April during a snowstorm. Ah.....Massachusetts...

Roasted salmon glazed with brown sugar and mustard

noreply@blogger.com (Munya) — Thu, 13 Oct 2016 22:03:00 +0000

Weeknight meals sometimes stump me- I want something tasty, nutritious, and easy to prepare. So when I saw this five-ingredient New York Times recipe for roasted salmon glazed with brown sugar and Dijon mustard, I was sold. It's extremely simple to prepare but packs a lot of flavor. Next time you're overwhelmed on a Wednesday evening, try it out. And here's an added bonus- clean-up is a cinch as well!

New Year's Eve in Boracay

noreply@blogger.com (Munya) — Wed, 05 Oct 2016 04:56:00 +0000

Boracay seemed like the place to spend New Year's Eve, and a good place to get partying out of our system before heading on to calmer Palawan. Our reveling had to be put on hold, however, as our AirAsia flight was delayed for about 4 hrs in Manila. Funnily enough, I had spent a lot of time researching whether to fly into Kalibo Airport or Caticlan, the closer one to Boracay. I eventually decided on Kalibo as there were many (cheaper) flights to chose from and I had read that it wasn't uncommon for Caticlan flights to be canceled due to there being only one runway. In the end, even our flight to Kalibo held us up- it seemed as though everyone was going to Boracay for the New Year and the crowds were taking a toll on the airlines.

Once we arrived at the Kalibo airport, we exited the building and found a stand outside where we bought bus tickets to Caticlan jetty port. The bus ride took a few hours and again at Caticlan, we had to queue up for the small boat to Boracay. Upon docking in Boracay, there are many vans that can take you to your hostel and we were soon at ours, the lovely MNL Beach Hostel Boracay.

Sunset from the hostel roof- beaches on both sides!

Requisite fire throwers on White Beach

We rented a scooter and took it to the northern part of the island where we had the beach (Puka Shell Beach) to ourselves

Filipinos do fireworks in style. We were treated to a long show at midnight.

Beautiful Boracay beach

Lavaux Vineyard Terraces in Switzerland

noreply@blogger.com (Munya) — Thu, 08 Sep 2016 02:55:00 +0000

As someone who grew up in the beautiful Pacific NW and is spoiled by mountains, I remember laughing when I recently did a "hike" in my mom's home state of Massachusetts. Around these parts, we'd have called it a hill. Switzerland, however, can hold its own. In addition to the stunning landscapes, the country also offers superb under the radar wines that any oenophile should explore.
The sloped Lavaux Vineyard Terraces are a short train ride from Lausanne and offer stunning views of Lake Geneva. This spot also happens to be a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the NYTimes picked the Vaud region as one of its 52 places to visit in 2016. I was in Switzerland 3 years ago (yes, it has taken me that long to post about this visit!) in the fall and happened to get to the vineyards at the perfect time when the late October sun bathed the vines in a golden hue.

Golden hour

After walking the vineyards on our own, we crossed under the busy highway and came to Vinorama, a winery. They first presented a beautiful video about the family history of a Lavaux vineyard throughout the seasons and we then did a tasting opting for Switzerland's best whites. I recommend you follow do the same as that is Switzerland's speciality, especially the Chasselas grape.
While Swiss wine should be enjoyed by us all, they only export roughly 2% abroad so be sure and try this unique wine in its original setting.

Tasty meats, bread, and cheese accompanied our wine and after seeing how beautifully the cheese was sliced, we even bought a fancy cheese slicer (you can find them at Globus in Lausanne!).

El Nido, Palawan Guide

noreply@blogger.com (Munya) — Mon, 25 Apr 2016 02:11:00 +0000

The first time I heard about Palawan was through a picture that looked similar to the one I took above. I mentally bookmarked the place and when I knew that I would have some vacation time coming up at Christmastime, I jumped on the opportunity to book a trip to the Philippines, with Palawan being the main reason. Turquoise waters, jagged limestone cliffs, island-hopping, and fresh grilled fish are promised to those who endure the long journey to El Nido. We were granted all of that and more.

Palawan is definitely in a transition state-- somewhere between best-kept secret (at least among Americans) and mass-tourism. On multiple occasions, we bumped into travelers that we had met earlier in Manila and Boracay. That's how small El Nido, Palawan feels. It's on everyone's itinerary and rightly so. The funny thing is, the options for accommodation fall on two sides of the extreme- very basic (yet overpriced) and luxurious. Since we didn't properly reserve in advance, we were stuck with one of the worst rooms I'd ever stayed in for the first two nights. It was extremely overpriced considering it had an unbearable moisture smell (which meant we had to sleep with the window open and DEET ourselves up at night), a non-functioning toilet, and questionable sheets. When a room freed up two nights later in an excellent, albeit relatively pricey, "designer" hostel, we felt like kings with an aerated room, a clean and functioning bathroom with a shower, a tasty breakfast, and more. We moved accommodation one more time just to see what else was on offer and ended up in a very comfortable hotel. Read on for my guide to Palawan!

Where to stay: SPIN hostel, Sea Cocoon Hotel
Where NOT to stay: Mochileros Guesthouse

Good places to eat a meal or snack:

Shakes at Shady rest cafe
Crepe stand next to Shady rest cafe (this place gets a lot of action at night)
Burgers at Alofa
Drinks at Pukka Bar
Breakfast at Art Cafe
Altrove for good crispy pizza- get there early to snag a seat
V and V bagel- The pan bagnat was out of this world and made by a French expat
Happiness bar- satisfying shakshuka and good homemade bread. It's in Corong Corong like Republika Bar (see note below) but directly on the beach and not up high.

"Nightlife":

Unlike Boracay, there's no raging club or bar in Palawan but laid back bars dot the beach and the town's main drag. Here are a few I enjoyed:

Reggae bar- drinks and live music on the beach
Habibi- for shisha at a beachfront cafe (upstairs)
Kalabar- bar run by French expats (seeing a theme here?) with delicious cocktails like pineapple mojitos and good ceviche and tartare, pingpong, and a DJ (inside "The Bazaar")
Republica Sunset Bar- take a trike to Corong Corong (just past El Nido) and catch the sunset of your dreams at this place run by Spanish ex-pats. They have a good Spotify channel on play and tasty if not weak pitchers of sangria. The Spanish tortilla and ceviche are very good.

Activities:

Island hopping tour- there are plenty of places to book this- we used Art Cafe and did Tour C- the snorkeling was amazing and we saw blue star fish, tons of little biting jellyfish, and lots more. The boat capitans grill lunch while you're out at sea and then you have a meal of fresh fish and fruit waiting for you when you hit the sand.
Nacpan beach- we rented a scooter to this beach (which was NOT easy to get to- we got lost muliple times. If you're coming from El Nido, the turnoff on the left is very subtle.) Good swimming here and good restaurant on the beach
Kalit waterfalls- with that scooter you should also go here- you'll need a local guide and flip flops are essential (sneakers don't work because you keep crossing rivers)- the ice cold falls are a refreshing and scenic way to cool off from the Philippine sun
Rent kayaks (they go quickly so do it in advance!) and head away from the El Nido coastline until you can veer left. Around the corner is a beautiful secluded beach where you can enjoy a quiet swim and a picnic lunch. I brought a pan bagnat from V and V bagel! Watch out for the strong current on the way home.

Interesting observations:

It's custom to take off shoes before entering restaurants and other businesses in Palawan (For some reason, I didn't encounter this on the other islands I stayed)
Lack of internet-wifi sucks in Palawan. Even if your accommodation says there's internet, it's often through one cell phone and you'll never get connected. Singh's is the only foolproof solution. A very entrepreneurial Indian guy runs it out of his upstairs apartment in town. Bonus: you get free wifi if you buy Indian food!
Daily power outages- these are the norm so get used to candlelight. One night we were having dinner and the power was out from the moment we ordered our drinks until right before we finished our meal. Another evening while at Happiness Bar, it was the same story so their menu was limited and they gave me a lantern when I went to the restroom.
Lots of mosquitoes in Palawan
"Hello, sir ma'am" is the standard introductory greeting. For some reason I enjoyed this.
El Nido airport is an experience- we had to take two trikes to get there. It's totally worth it to fly back to Manila from this "airport" instead of going back to Puerto Princesa. There are cows on the runway and you're given a wooden boarding pass which you sadly have to return when you board. It's a small plane back to Manila but luckily the flight is short.

Tips:

Book accommodation early as El Nido proper is small and the decent (read: reliable plumbing) places go fast
Rent a scooter and explore the surrounding areas
Buy bug spray and make use of it from day one!
Fly back to Manila via the El Nido airport. Yes, the airfare is a little higher than going back to Puerto Princesa, but remember how long the ride took you? Time is money, baby. Plus it's worth it if only for the experience of getting a wooden boarding pass

Snorkeling crystal-clear Palawan waters

Waiting for the sunset at Republica Bar

Aforementioned Republica Sunset Bar with their chill music accompanying the sunset

(Not too shabby) view from room at Sea Cocoon Hotel

View of the bay from my hike for wimps (as opposed to the death-defying Taraw Peak hike)

Singh's Internet Cafe (and living room Indian restaurant!)

Sign: "Fastest INTERNET connection in town! Wifi is not free unless you order Indian food"

Wooden boarding pass at El Nido airport

The "runway"

Our plane back to Manila

Bye, Palawan!

Christmas in the Philippines- Manila

noreply@blogger.com (Munya) — Wed, 02 Mar 2016 08:05:00 +0000

If there's an award for most festive Christmas in the world, the Philippines is way on top--sorry, Germany. This was the nativity scene I encountered as soon as I walked into the arrivals area at Ninoy Aquino International Airport in Manila.

Fried chicken for breakfast on Christmas morning! Being that Christmas is such a huge holiday here, not much was open on December 25. I spent the morning eating fried chicken (apparently that's a thing in Japan?) with a Korean guy from my hostel talking about everything from Hank Aaron to guns in America...all thanks to the help of his ~~trusty~~ horrible e-translator. If that's not an international Christmas experience, well then I don't know what is.

Christmas mass was so full that crowds gathered outside the church

Intramuros

Tagaytay volcano. Was it worth the traffic jam spent in a squished van? I think so.

And halo-halo because, well-- it wouldn't be the Philippines without it.

Barcelona Guide

noreply@blogger.com (Munya) — Thu, 21 Jan 2016 05:34:00 +0000

I'd wanted to go to Barcelona for the longest time and I finally made it happen last summer. It was everything I'd hoped it to be and a lot more. (I was a bit weary about it being overrun with tourists, but thanks to the neighborhood of both my hostel and hotel, I had a great experience and can't wait to return.) Here's what I did and would do again!

Where to stay:

Hostel One Paralelo- This is hands down one of the best hostels I've stayed in. They have a great family dinner every night, nightly bar hopping events, and awesome staff. Between the warm community vibe of the other guests and the lovely Poble Sec neighborhood, I wasn't ready to leave and move to a hotel when my other traveling partners arrived in Barcelona. (In fact, the day after I checked out, I brought my friend back to the hostel for another pub crawl and we were welcomed with open arms.)
Hostal Live- This is the hotel we stayed in after our amazing stay at Hostel One. It is clean, reasonably priced, and has friendly staff. The neighborhood is also outside of the touristy Las Ramblas area.

What do see/do:

Sagrada Familia- A MUST. While it can be overwhelming to feel like you have to visit every church/cathedral you see in Europe, you can't forgive yourself if you leave Barcelona without seeing this awe-inspiring masterpiece. You need to book your timeslot in advance (online).

Park Guell- Another must-do although the crowds can be crazy. (Again, you need to book online in advance as tickets are limited.)

Food Tour with Devour Barcelona- I first used this great company in Madrid and I'm pleased to report that they've recently expanded their tours to include Barcelona. We had an excellent guide who walked us through the Gracia neighborhood and showed us some real gems.

Beach day at Barceloneta Beach- While other areas of Spain have far more beautiful beaches than those of Barcelona's, there's something to be said for an amazing city that is located on a nice beach. If you have the time, plan to spend part of an afternoon here and unwind.

Boqueria Market- Yes, this place is insanely touristy and crowded but it is fun to do a quick visit and grab one (or three) of their amazing juices. I preferred the Gracia market as it was more low-key and the selection was equally unrivaled.

Where to eat:

Quimet y quimet- Come here for a standing-room only bite to eat and drink. The place fills up extremely quickly and the hours can be a bit unpredictable so try to call ahead if you're not already in the neighborhood. The family behind the counter is jovial and helpful, even if you don't speak a word of Spanish or Catalan. Try the preserved foods or any of the sandwiches they have on offer. (Tip- if you're staying at the hostel mentioned above, this tapas bar is only a 2-minute walk away.)

Cal Pep- Go here if only so you can have the best white anchovies of your life and die happy.

Where to go out at night:

XiX bar- Just down from Plaza Espanya, this gin and tonic bar has a lengthy menu of gins and top-shelf tonics, with Fever Tree being among the latter. Along the bar, they have various bottles of infused gin (think peppercorns, cinnamon, and citrus peels) and on the back wall, you can find the more "pure" gins.

Los Juanele- Flamenco bar -This is an authentic hideaway in central Barcelona (we were the only non-Spaniards and also the only under-40 year olds). There is an unmarked door so don't be discouraged if you can't find the place on the first try. We sat at the bar and had the sweetest bartender all night. A jamon and cheese plate with gin-tonics was on the menu for us and he treated us to shots at the end of the night. It was so fun to see cute older Spanish couples dance flamenco the entire evening.

Opium- For a fun way to end the night dancing, this is one the mega clubs on Barceloneta beach. You can be sure the music will be good (one night, we got to see Sander Van Doorn) and if you're like us, you can cap it off with a 5am swim in the Mediterranean. (Just be sure that no enterprising pickpockets try to snag your belongings which almost happened to us!)

Bar Marsella- Supposedly one of the city's oldest hangouts, this timeless absinthe bar is a real treat. (We stopped here as part of my hostel's pub crawl.) Try to play a game of "concentration" with the elderly bartender- you won't win.

Montjuic Fountains/Park- Take a bottle of cava and enjoy it on the steps above the fountain or in the park with a view at sunset. The night we were there, we got to see a group of Spanish folks squaredancing. My Texas travel buddies joined right in.

Barcelona- we will be back!!!!

"Eat With" in Rome- Dining with Locals

noreply@blogger.com (Munya) — Tue, 19 Jan 2016 05:04:00 +0000

There's an "airbnb" for everything these days and I don't think that's necessarily a bad thing. Connecting with locals while traveling adds so much more to the experience and "Eat With" (an online platform and community that connects travelers with locals who like to cook) is no exception. While in Rome last July, we were fortunate to attend Giovanna's "Roman Dinner" on her beautiful rooftop terrace in the Prati neighborhood near the Vatican. We were a group of four travelers and there was a solo German traveler who attended as well. Giovanna's boyfriend and friend (and her turtle!) rounded out the guests. The meal was delicious from start to finish and the dishes she chose to make were perfect for the very hot weather we'd been having, even by Rome standards. Many of the dishes were family recipes passed down to her and incorporated vegetables and herbs that she grew on her terrace. She was the quintessential Italian host and even brought out some delicious cheese and meats when one of the people in our group revealed he didn't like veal. While Giovanna is a museum educator by day, it's clear that her passion for cooking does not take the backseat. In addition to the many "Eat With" dinners she hosts regularly, she also writes a food blog documenting her recipes.

Eat With is expanding to many countries but their biggest base is in Israel, Spain, and Italy, so if any of those destinations is on your list, I highly recommend signing up for a dinner.

Grilled eggplant

Potatoes with rosemary from her roof garden

Vegetable lasagne with tomatoes from her roofgarden

Veal saltimbocca and a simple salad with delicious lettuce from--you guessed it--her roof garden

A delicious zabaglione, her grandmother's recipe, which she kindly handwrote for the German guest

A lovely evening!

Budget-friendly hotel in Bruges: Hotel Fevery

noreply@blogger.com (Munya) — Thu, 12 Nov 2015 05:13:00 +0000

This hotel is awesome and just off the beaten path in Bruges. Paul, the owner, is super friendly in a reserved, endearing, European way. The breakfasts are tasty and served in a cozy room. The hotel is "green" so the water pressure isn't great, but that's what you should expect in an ecohotel. Apart from the service, the best part about this hotel is the price. We got a 2-room suite (with a shared bathroom) for 250 euros (the two-night total!) I'm sure it's higher in the summer, but this was my second trip to Bruges in March and winter is a magical time to visit Bruges.

Also, there is a direct bus you can take here from the Bruges train station. It is a short walk from the bus stop and a lot cheaper than a taxi.

Food Tour and Underground Tour in Naples, Italy

noreply@blogger.com (Munya) — Sun, 08 Nov 2015 22:30:00 +0000

I've written about my positive experiences with food tours here and here. When I was in Naples, Italy, I was hopeful to find something of similar caliber. There was not as much choice or competition as I found in other European cities, but I eventually settled on "Eat in Italy Food Tours". My guide, Simone, met me in the waterfront district of Chiaia, which was where our tour would take place. As it was last-minute, I ended up being the only person on the tour and overall, it was enjoyable. The culinary highlight was a visit to a restaurant for eggplant parmesan. While the caprese salad left a bit to be desired (the tomatoes were unripe), the eggplant parmesan was everything I love about the dish- it was meaty and the slow-cooked sauce had a very mellow flavor.

A historic coffee shop displaying coffee makers from various eras!

A walk in a garden

Wine tasting of Campanian wines

A simple but tasty pasta

The tour culminated in a visit to the "Naples Underground" or Napoli Sottterranea which provided a respite from the sticky summer heat. Deep under the chaotic bustle of the city lies an extensive underground "city" of tunnels and rooms built from volcanic rock and ash, also known as tufo. It has existed since Neapolis was founded by the Greeks around 470 B.C. Over time, it was used for various purposes including underground aqueducts, Christian burial grounds, garbage dumps, and finally as a bomb shelter in World War II.

Disclosure: this is not for the claustrophobic. Some of the tunnels we went through were extremely narrow. (It is similar to the Catacombs of Appian Way, if not more narrow.)

A chilling scene of a room frozen in time from WWII, including a child's rocking horse.

This underground city represented everything I loved about Naples, particularly the immense history that included both optimistic and very dark periods of history. I can't recommend this tour enough.

Daytrip from Split to Krka National Park in Croatia

noreply@blogger.com (Munya) — Thu, 29 Oct 2015 18:12:00 +0000

When A. and I were planning the Croatia leg of our summer 2014 Eurotrip, we wanted to see the well-known Plitvice Lakes, but it was too far away from Split, the town where we were staying. After reading about another national park, Krka, and seeing that it was much closer, we ended up booking a tour with Split Excursions. They are a local tour company with several different itineraries- we opted for the "Krka Waterfalls and Sibenik group tour" and it was an enjoyable experience.

The bus left at a reasonable morning hour from Republic Square, a central meeting point in Split and we departed for Krka National Park. While the waterfalls are magnificent, they are insanely crowded in the summertime, so I recommend crossing the main footbridge and rather than go right towards the waterfalls (Skradinski buk), take a left where it is much calmer and an excellent place for a dip. We had plenty of free time at the waterfalls before meeting back at the bus.

We were then taken to a beautiful small town within the park (Roski slap) for lunch at a konoba (Dalmatian style tavern). This was in the middle of an insane summer downpour and lightning/thunder storm so we ate a simple lunch inside the cozy restaurant. Everything was from the area including local meats, cheeses, crusty bread, olive oil, wine, and dangerously strong local spirits.

After lunch, we had the opportunity to explore this area of the park, Roski slap, where it was much more peaceful. It is home to many unique birds and plant life.

At this point, the clouds had parted and we were treated to an insanely beautiful vista of a monastery.

We then headed to the beautiful town of Sibenik, where we saw the St. Jacob's Cathedral (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) and also had ample free time for exploring the town and enjoying an aperitif by the seaside. All in all, I'd recommend this tour if you are staying in Split and have limited time to explore on your own.

Avoiding Tourist Traps in Trastevere

noreply@blogger.com (Munya) — Sun, 13 Sep 2015 00:37:00 +0000

Walking through Rome's Trastevere neighborhood at night is magical, but many of the restaurants leave a lot to be desired. I can't count how many bad microwaved meals I've had here- some reminiscent of Chef Boyardee.

On my latest trip to the Eternal City, I was a bit luckier.

First up? Pianostrada Laboratorio di Cucina. Katie Parla guided me to this gem tucked away on one of Trastevere's narrow backstreets. The place is run by three kind women who offered to cut our sandwiches in three for my two friends and me.

What to order: The squid ink bun sandwich with mozzarella, fig jam, basil. It is probably one of the best sandwiches I have ever eaten. A tomato and burrata sandwich was fantastic as well.

Tip: It's a tiny space so go early to snag a seat.

Place: La Prosciutteria

This wine and prosciutto bar is nothing out-of-this-world but a safe bet in a neighborhood full of subpar offerings.

What to order: A heaping butcher block covered in sliced fruit, stinky cheeses, grilled vegetables, and more. They have a nice selection of wines by the glass as well.

Place: Antilla pub

Not traditional in any way, this bar had extremely nice bartenders and the best damn pina colada that side of the Atlantic. We found our way there several nights in a row and the corner location provided prime people-watching.

On A Search for the Best Lobster Roll

noreply@blogger.com (Munya) — Wed, 22 Jul 2015 02:49:00 +0000

Cameron's Lobster House~ Brunswick, ME

Despite the fact that my mom grew up in New England and I have cousins from Maine, I never experienced the pleasure that comes from eating a lobster roll done right, until three summers ago.

It started with hearing my family's tales about their delicious roll in Ogunquit, ME. I had to stay back at the hotel as I was sick and trying to gain enough energy to attend a wedding the next evening. After I recovered, I made sure to go on my own quest for this New England specialty. Before the drive back to Massachusetts, I found a perfect lobster roll joint in my cousins' home town of Brunswick, ME. At Cameron's Lobster House (18 Bath Rd), you will ascend to crustacean heaven.
As far as I'm concerned, there are only two ways to eat a lobster roll: either hot with butter or cold with mayo and I'm partial to the latter.

Stay tuned as I'll soon post my own attempt at making a lobster roll all the way out here in the Pacific Northwest.

Loke's Bar in Stockholm

noreply@blogger.com (Munya) — Sat, 20 Jun 2015 04:44:00 +0000

Does the name Lennart "Hoa-Hoa" Dahlgren ring a bell? Well, it didn't for me but this former Olympic weightlifting champion is a household name in his home country of Sweden. Mr. Dahlgren also owns a fantastic neighborhood restaurant, Loke's Bar, in Stockholm's hipster Sodermalm neighborhood. The clientele is mostly local and dinner service is packed on a nightly basis. We stumbled upon the cozy place as it was just a stone's throw from the apartment we were air bnb-ing in. Apparently Hoa-Hoa is a dog lover (Loke is a real-life schnauzer) which was evident in the canine friendly restaurant. We enjoyed dinner there on two occasions and both times, we found dogs sitting under the tables, waiting patiently for a stray Swedish meatball.

The food here is traditional Scandinavian fare: potatoes, meatballs, lingonberry sauce, reindeer toast...

If you find yourself hungry in Sodermalm, stop by Loke's and smaklig måltid! (Bon appetit)

Ristorante da Ciccio in Agropoli

noreply@blogger.com (Munya) — Sun, 18 Jan 2015 21:19:00 +0000

"peasant food"

Sometimes my brothers and I give our mom grief for her ability to strike up a (long) conversation with anyone, even when it means holding up a line, but truthfully, her talent is an asset when traveling. From a Swiss-Tunisian laundromat owner extending an invitation to dinner, to a friendly Calabrian cooking for us out of a shack on the beach, my travel experiences are better thanks to her.

One of these special moments occurred after wandering all around the Campanian town of Agropoli a few years ago. It was that awkward time between lunch and dinner when many restaurants in Europe are closed, but we were starving. After asking random people in the street where we should eat, an older woman recommended Ciccio and called him to see if he was open. Like everywhere else, he wasn't, but he offered to open his restaurant and feed the starving Americans. Ciccio's food is simple and represents the region and its history as a traditionally poor land. One of my favorite dishes consisted of crusty day-old bread revived with pungent olive oil , fresh mozzarella, tomatoes, and imperfectly torn pieces of basil. Extravagant it was not- it represented peasant food of the region, but I felt like a queen eating it.

As Ciccio's restaurant's website states, "The recipes of The Cilento represent a veritable ode to local products and traditions that are passed down the generations." There has been a lot of discussion about going back to the roots of a region, peasant food, and the like. The New York Times recently ran an article about an Italian DJ ("Donpasta") who's made it his mission to preserve Italian culinary traditions. He isn't interested in high cuisine or TV programs like Master Chef encroaching onto Italy's culinary scene. Neither is Ciccio. Ristorante da Ciccio does an excellent job of showing the region's simplicity and the food shines. We returned the following year for another great lunch and here are some of the things we ate.

Comptoir des Mers in Paris

noreply@blogger.com (Munya) — Fri, 07 Nov 2014 05:42:00 +0000

We're smack in the middle of oyster season, which gives me the perfect opportunity to talk about one of my favorite seafood spots in Paris, Comptoir des Mers in the Marais. Several special memories have taken place in this small restaurant, including the moment I received the amazing news from my friends that they were engaged! I also had the chance to share this place with my mother who then proclaimed that she had the best oysters of her life here.
Not to be missed: any of the seafood carpaccios (their tuna is a standout), fine de Claire oysters, heaping seafood platters, and their crisp white wines like Sancerre

Comptoir des Mers is located at 1 Rue de Turenne in Paris's 4th arrondissement.

Scenes from Lausanne

noreply@blogger.com (Munya) — Fri, 07 Nov 2014 05:25:00 +0000

Two Rooms in Dublin

noreply@blogger.com (Munya) — Sat, 19 Jul 2014 15:01:00 +0000

I had the pleasure of staying at Two Rooms in Dublin when I was there this past February. From the moment we arrived I felt at home, as Garvan brought us freshly made scones and proper Irish tea to enjoy in the dining room. Fred the dog welcomed us as well. This bed and breakfast is just what the name suggests: two charming rooms within Garvan and Kevin's lovely home. We had the downstairs room which featured beautiful furniture and a cozy fireplace. Every night on our walk back, we could text Garvan and he would have the fireplace lit and ready. There are no electronic distractions in the rooms, apart from an old-fashioned radio. You will wake rested and refreshed every morning. And then slowly, you'll make your way to the dining room for one of Garvan's masterpieces. It could be fresh fruit and yogurt, a smoked salmon scramble, french toast with blueberry compote. You will eat well and you will eat a lot. You may end up buying the Two Rooms in Dublin cookbook as I did, so you can try to master their scones at home. And that might be just enough to tide you over until you can return to Two Rooms.

A Food Tour in Lisbon: Grapes & Bites

noreply@blogger.com (Munya) — Wed, 11 Jun 2014 00:51:00 +0000

In preparation for my trip to Portugal last summer, I diligently studied up on vinho verde. I use the term "study" loosely, but it made a great afterwork apertif. Vinho verde, literally "green wine", is the term used to describe young wine. It has just a hint of effervescence to it and a low alcohol content, making it the perfect wine to enjoy after a sweltering summer day.

I wanted to learn more about the food and wine history of Portugal so I decided to take a private food history tour of Lisbon, through the tour company Your Friend in Lisbon. In addition to learning local history and sampling specialties (including ginjinha, caracois-- otherwise known as garden snails, and the satisfyingly decadent pastel de nata), my affable guide Alex closed up our tour with a fabulous offering at Grapes & Bites in the Bairro Alto district.

The friendly owners brought out two boards of amazing meats including pata negra and one with roasted pepper swirls. I tried local cheeses, nuts, and sauces (including an addictive pepper jam, which sadly didn't make it through airport security). Alongside this smorgasboard, I was treated to several different olive oils, fresh olives, and of course, a vinho verde tasting.

At the end, they brought me a glass of port, though I had my doubts since I don't like dessert wines. Although sweet, it wasn't overly so and it had a smooth finish and a lot of depth- you might even call me a converted port fan.

If you find yourself in Lisbon this summer, I highly recommend this informative and interactive tour-- it was the best money I spent while in Lisbon.

Junibacken: Children's Museum in Stockholm

noreply@blogger.com (Munya) — Sun, 08 Jun 2014 05:35:00 +0000

When in Stockholm, you might skip over the children's museum in favor of something a bit more grown-up. You'd be mistaken. Junibacken was one of my favorite sites in Stockholm. Perhaps it has to do with my Peter Pan syndrome or affinity for Pippi Longstocking but nevertheless, I highly recommend Junibacken for people of all ages. As I walked up to the entrance, I couldn't help but be amazed by the orderly line of strollers outside. No one seemed too concerned about theft and they were organized in a perfect row. Inside, the museum was filled with gleeful young children and fatigued parents yet I felt no shame in being there. An admission ticket includes a ride on the "story train," an enjoyable experience into a Swedish literary wonderland. It's a magical journey through orchards, snowy villages, and larger than life scenes.

The other highlight of the museum is the replica of Pippi Longstocking's house. Head on over to the museum and transport yourself back in time, if only for a day.

Junibacken is located at Galärvarvsvägen 8, 115 21 Stockholm, Sweden