Water into Wino

Castello Monaci Maru Negroamaro 2007

2010-03-21T08:47:21-04:00

Castello Monaci Maru Negroamaro 2007
Puglia, Italy ($14)

I got into the lusty wines of Apulia while I was living in NYC. It started with Salice Salentino before I found some amazing Copertino, both of which are based on blending Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera grapes. The combination of ripe and stewed fruit aromas with rustic grainy tannins won me over on reds from Italy’s heel.

At some point in the last few years the number of wines simply labeled Negroamaro have increased in number. The name of the grape itself translates into “bitter black” which clues you in that this is not for every palate.

After a couple years hiatus from Apulian reds, I decided to take home a bottle of Monachi Maru Negroamaro 2007. Why this producer? Well I received a kick ass Primitivo from the same producer last year and was impressed enough to remember them this time around.

Aromas of plum, black cherries, tobacco and vanilla made this wine extremely straightforward. It didn’t help that its juiciness and overall smooth feel didn’t leave anything to the imagination. Not a poor wine, but just very California in style.

I expected much more earthy notes and some rusticity on the palate. It feels like this wine is trying to be something other than what it wants to be, but I do think this would be a great stepping stone wine for your Zin or Cab drinkers. Ultimately though someone looking for an Italian wine that wants for those raw and lusty reds from southern Italy might be disappointed with this particular bottle, especially at $14.

Uva Mira Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

2010-03-09T21:29:02-05:00

Uva Mira Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Stellenbosch, South Africa

It’s obvious that South Africa makes some good wines under $12. I’m sure there are some decent cabernets, some appealing shiraz and a whole lot of pinotage. I also know without a doubt that their chenin blanc in that price range is some of the best.

The problem is I’ve been trying to find South African wines with the wine of origin label as Stellenbosch. These seem to demand higher prices and aren’t as easy to find as wines labeled Western Cape, Coastal Region or simply South Africa. With several of the Bordeaux inspired blends from Stellenbosch fetching over $40 a bottle in the US, I’m not having an easy time getting the gist of the higher end wines from the region.

Since my mind was set on getting a decent red in the mid twenty dollar range, I found myself stalking the shelves of the wonderland that is Premier Wines. After passing up a $60 red from Anwilka and a $40 red blend from Meinert, I found a $20 Merlot Cabernet blend from Uva Mira. With the stars aligned for a wallet-to-bottle connection - and by stars I mean a wine labeled as Stellenbosch, a decent score by Steve Tanzer and the importer being Michael Skurnik – I brought this bottle home.

Now normally a 52% Merlot – 48% Cabernet Sauvignon blend would bore the crap out of me but that wasn’t the fate of this one. Inky red color with huge ripe plum and black currant aromas, this wine screamed hot climate. Again that would normally be a turnoff but its secondary aromas of tobacco, chocolate and smoke held my attention.

This wine felt supple and full until its fine tannins got a hold of my mid palate. There was just enough grip to remind me that this isn’t a new world fruit bomb. It had an old world rusticity that I can’t get enough of. With a long finish that was possibly sprinkled with a bretty medicinal note, this wine showed a whole lot of character.

With an intriguing balance of new world ripeness and old world winemaking technique, this wine heads in a direction more regions should strive for. I’d like to think that generally South Africa as a region combines old and new world styles but I just haven’t drank enough yet to declare it so. However this Uva Mira blend was just what I was looking for…a $20 Stellenbosch wine that shows what makes the region unique ultimately revealing a sense of place.

Santa Rita 120 Carmenere 2008

2010-03-05T08:28:10-05:00

Santa Rita 120 Carmenere 2008
Central Valley, Chile ($8)

I’ve put down plenty of carmenere. When I need to find a big ripe and juicy red for under ten bucks I know I can count on Chile’s national grape. I’m all about the spice and bell pepper I often get and I dig the ripe dark fruit.

When I bought this bottle of Santa Rita 120 Carmenere 2008 I was not expecting to be blown away but was anticipating a solid red to warm me up. I’ve had earlier vintages and been satisfied in this ultra low price point. I can usually count on Concha Y Toro, Calina Reserva and this 120 to deliver.

It turns out I either grew out of this wine or this was an off vintage because I wasn’t very satisfied with this wine. Simply put…it was soupy. The pepper and plum aromas were pleasant enough but the mouth feel lacked acidity. Made me think of Rachel Ray’s “thicker than a soup but thinner than a stew” bit from 30 Minute Meals.

Now I may have just grown accustomed to my cool climate wines, and as a more experienced wine drinker these days, I need that balance that acidity offers. Even for $7 I won’t be buying this particular wine again any time soon, but I will be drinking more Carmenere looking for those good buys under $10. That being said I’m sure a bottle like this would go over extremely with party guests and crowds who tend to like juicy mouth filling reds.

Fantinel Merlot 2007

2010-03-03T21:37:19-05:00

Fantinel Merlot 2007
Friuli, Italy ($10)

Chances are if you see me drinking merlot it’s from one of two places…Long Island or Friuli. Sounds snobby doesn’t it? It just might but be only because I think the merlot should be grown where it’ll just have enough heat to ripen.

I’ve had some memorable Friulian merlots in the past that bring bright red fruit and that rusticity that I find so appetizing in Italian reds. If you’re looking for reds from the region you’re not going an easy time finding them. When I was in NYC, I struggled finding them, let alone where I live now…in God’s country.

So whenever I find a merlot, cabernet franc or even a red blend from Friuli, I am tempted to bring it home. When I saw this bottle of Fantinel Merlot on sale for $10, I had to give it a go. The wine is actually called “Celebrate Life” because a dollar of every sale goes towards charity. I won’t bore you with the details but it has something to do with micro-algae.

With nothing but some red cherry, thyme and vanilla aromas this wasn’t the wine I was expecting. No tar, no forest, no shrooms, no leather…it just didn’t show any complexity. A medium-thin body and light tannins made me think this wine belongs in a carafe rather than a bottle.

In my limited experience making wine, I’d say that this one suffered from over-cropping of grapes. Not a bad wine though as it wasn’t flawed but I just wouldn’t want this one to be someone’s first merlot from Friuli.

Foradori Teroldego 2002

2010-02-18T15:08:44-05:00

Foradori Teroldego 2002
Trentino/Alto-Adige, Italy ($20)

Some of the sexiest grapes in the world are those that stay under the radar while retaining their expression of place. These are wines, for whatever reason, never gain popularity despite their complexity, affordability or downright sexiness. This comes easy to indigenous Italian grapes. I consider grapes like Lagrein, Refosco and Negroamaro to still be under the radar.

These days reading blogs and using search engines can tell you all you need to know about the grapes us wine geeks get all giddy for, which is in fact how I found out about the Italian grape of Teroldego. Reading a NYCR story about Red Tail Ridge Winery clued me in to another Northern Italian grape that needed tasting.

The grape is primarily grown in the Northeast Trentino/Alto-Adige area of Italy, which is considered cool climate for the country. In flavor, it’s been compared to Syrah and Zinfandel although could never be mistaken for either due to its high acidity. What contributes to the grapes “speak easy” aura is that its sole appellation of origin is Teroldigo Rotaliano D.O.C., a region that isn’t on the tongue of many wine drinkers.

I almost stayed away from this bottle of Foradori Teroldego Rotaliano 2002 because of what I know of Italian vintages. The 2002 vintage was bad for most of the country and every chart I looked at previously basically said “too late buddy.” Considering I don’t see this grape often I still through down the $20 to try a new grape.

With aromas of dried cherry, plum and tar it had a fun nose, and although pleasant, there was something about it that went into a stewed fruit aroma that makes me think it had worn out its welcome in the bottle. The color and extraction took me by surprise considering it’s a cool climate variety and the fine tannins added to the rustic feel.

Even though I wouldn’t recommend this particular bottle and vintage to a friend because of its age, I bet this wine in a recent vintage would be an eye opening experience for most of my geek friends. It’ll be exciting to see how it does in New York State if wineries are crazy enough to try it and dare I say that Toreldego on a tasting menu looks much sexier then Merlot or Lemberger.

Domaine de Pallus Les Pensées de Pallus Chinon 2006

2010-01-28T21:32:31-05:00

Les Pensées de Pallus Chinon 2006
Loire, France ($20)

Every now and then I come across a cabernet franc that reminds me of what I love about the grape. It’s these times when I drink a glass without fussing over aromas or finishes because these wines just wash away any motivation to intellectualize the experience.

This usually happens with well made Montepulcianos and Dolcettos. For some reason I associate it with mainly Italian wines but it can happen with good Chinons, Bourgiels, or even Cahors. I do appreciate the rest they offer my frequently over stimulated brain and allow my to just relax and sip away.

I picked this one up at a local wine shop that competes with most Manhattan stores I’ve been to in terms of boasting a thoughtful wine selection, City Wine Merchant in downtown Buffalo. There was only one Chinon there and I assumed it was decent, so I took home a bottle of this Domaine de Pallus Les Pensées de Pallus Chinon 2006.

Aromas of blackberry, dark cherry, olive and tobacco make this worth spending some time with your nose in the glass. The palate is ripe and has some flesh behind it, perfectly balanced and generous with its smooth tannins. It’s simply effortless in the mouth and finishes with a chalky rustic feel. Overall a cabernet franc that others should look to for an example of what makes this grape so seductive

Chateau Moine Blanc Saint Émilion Grand Cru 2005

2009-12-11T16:01:00-05:00

Chateau Moine Blanc Saint Émilion 2005
Bordeaux, France ($30)

After driving some 450 miles to visit friends in NYC, I was given the opportunity to pick out a wine from their stash to follow up the local pinot noir I brought from home. Pleased to find a good selection of decent Bordeaux wines, I picked out what I thought would be a good pairing with the potato and cheese gratin, brussel sprouts and baked ham dinner.

Knowing that St. Émilion wines had a good percentage of merlot and cabernet franc and knowing obviously that grand cru is something better than not, I choose this Chateau Moine Blanc 2005. Oh yea, I’ve also been exposed to the hype of that vintage in France so I knew that I couldn’t go wrong with this choice. This one is a blend of 70% merlot and 30% cabernet franc.

Without letting it warm up from the cellar, we filled our glasses and didn’t miss a beat on our wine consumption. Aromas of blackberry, cherry and spice came through along with some moderate oak notes. If there was one thing we all agreed upon, it was that this wine had balance. The fruit, oak, tannin and acid were all on the same page.

I was afraid I’d chosen a bottle that might have been a little too pricy just to open without regard for temperature and lack of decanting but it turns out this bottle was only around $30. My basic knowledge of French classifications lead me to think anything grand cru would be a big ticket item, but this wasn’t Burgundy. Saint Émilion Grand Cru is the appellation, not a vineyard designation.

Regardless of its moderate price, I know this wine would impress many of the winos I know. This cab franc fanatic doesn’t mind merlot leading the way every now and then, especially when they come together to show balance and grace. Saint Émilion Grand Cru will find its way back in to my glass soon.

Chateau de Haute-Serre Cahors 2004

2009-12-09T20:14:55-05:00

Chateau de Haute-Serre Cahors 2004
Cahors, France ($20)

The motivation for my trolling the Cahors section of a local wine store came from the downloading of the Flaming Lips new album “Embryonic”. In hindsight, it’s one of the more ridiculous reasons I’ve ever had to buy a bottle of wine and after five years now of constant drinking experimentation, I’ve had some silly reasons.

Cahors is the home of Cot, aka Malbec, that ubiquitous star of Argentina. I assume 9 out of 10 consumers would prefer picking up the Argentine version and that’s great, but I do enjoy being that 1 out of 10 that thinks that malbec from the Southwest of France deserves my attention every so often.

After listening to the aforementioned album, its unrefined tone and lack of catchy melodies was surprising. Being the wine fanatic I am, it got me thinking of what kind of wine this album would be and the answer came pretty quick…Cot from Cahors.

I’ve concluded Argentine malbec is the Yoshimi Versus the Pink Robots of the Flaming Lips discography and Embryonic, which just isn’t as appealing at first listen, is its rough and raw predecessor. It’s going to take some time to reveal its character just as some wines need a few glasses or days. This album is the Flaming Lips before the fancy modern methods of over producing and pop melodies.

This Chateau de Haute-Serre Cahors 2004 was just as I thought I would be…rustic. I got immediate aromas of tar and gravel similar to blacktop with fainter aromas of black cherry, violets and chocolate. Sandy tannins and a rich mouth feel lead to a long yet unpolished finish. There was nothing jammy nor were there any bursts of fruit flavor.

This bottle is definitely not for new world wine lovers or even for South American malbec lovers. If you like your wines like you like your demo tapes, then it might just be for you.

Bernard Baudry Chinon "Les Granges" 2006

2009-06-22T09:17:29-04:00

Bernard Baudry Chinon "Les Granges"
Chinon, Loire, France ($20)

My wine buying habits can be quite irrational. In my latest example I passed up a few wonderfully extracted 2005 Bourgueils and Chinons just to take home a 2006 Bernard Baudry “Les Granges”. This wine is simply an entry level Chinon from a not so fabulous vintage. They say that anyone can make good wine in a great year. It’s those poor years that reveal the most skilled winemakers, and coming from an area that has clear vintage variations myself, I’m interested in what Chinon reds are like in average to poor years.

“Les Granges” is made from young vines (in France this apparently means only 25 year old vines) in mostly sand and gravel soils. Fermented in stainless steel, this wine is meant for early consumption.

I often find myself describing cabernet franc as rustic and this wine surely fits that term. Dark red in color with aromas of blackberry, black cherry and pepper with undertones of barnyard animals, it revealed mouth filling fruit and a chalky tannic mouth-feel. I really dug the finish. The tannins didn’t finish with sweet fruit flavor, rather more along the lines of earthy loam and chalk.

Overall this wine was definitely rustic. In the second bottle I had I picked up much more of that barnyard aroma which can probably be attributed to some level of brett, but it still wasn’t offensive. For a wine with no oak aging it showed a great deal of complexity and texture, and I’d buy it again.

Lamoreaux Landing T23 Cabernet Franc 2007

2009-06-18T09:18:41-04:00

Lamoreaux Landing T23 Cabernet Franc 2007
Finger Lakes, New York ($14)

My recent foray into winemaking has given me plenty of experience drinking unoaked Cabernet Franc as most of my batches are less than sixty gallons. I’m always looking for comparable wines as a reference so picking up this Lamoreaux Landing T23 Cabernet Franc 2007 was a no brainer. The aspiring vigneron in me wanted to know what this grape, grown in the Finger Lakes, in a hot vintage and left unoaked would taste like.

The wine revealed a light ruby color, with aromas of cherries and violets. After a few hours it began to show some bell pepper aromas as well, but certainly not right after uncorking. On the palate, this wine was soft and supple and this the first time I can call a wine “easy going” thanks in part to its round structure. Its gentle finish wasn’t complex but it did leave you wanting another sip.

There was also a definite perception of sweetness that I can only guess is the addition of residual sugar. This may have ultimately contributed to its feeling of balance but my interest in tasting a wine unobstructed by oak was now seemingly influenced by some “pushing” of the fruit.

From what I’ve read this wine has been quite popular and I can see why. It’s probably the same reason why so many Parisians enjoy a glass of cab franc at the local bistro. It’s easily quaffable, light and delicate enough to ponder on its own or with any number of food pairings. It makes me think that maybe in the future, restaurants in New York will carry local unoaked Cab Francs as house wines, served in a pitcher and drank from a tumbler. My grade: 2.5/5

Vineland Estates Cabernet Franc 2007

2009-05-27T12:52:10-04:00

Vineland Estates Cabernet Franc 2007
Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada ($15)

Vineland Estates Winery in Ontario is an impressive winery. It can truly be classified as a destination winery with its restaurant, Carriage House, gorgeous store and tasting room, as well as its spectacular view of the Niagara Escarpment and Lake Ontario. Some of the most respected wines in the Niagara Peninsula have come from this estate winery.

The last time I visited Vineland, I was sold on its Elevation Series wines. Meant to be a step above the entry-level labels, these wines are sourced from the Niagara Escarpment sub-appellation. Limited to 3.5 tons per acre, the grapes are all hand harvested and sorted. My 2005 Elevation Cabernet I brought home that visit was delicious, and I thought it set the bar high for Ontario Cabernet Franc/Sauvignon wine.

When I saw their 2007 Cabernet Franc at Passport Wines in Clarence, I passed up buying the Chinon I was eyeing. Light ruby in color, it was very reminiscent of some franc I’ve had on the US side of the border. My first aromatic impression wasn’t all that positive. Smoke and cherries with a hint of green tannins was all I got. The wine was balanced on the palate but lacked the extraction I was hoping for from this vintage. The green nose blew off but didn’t leave much in way of exciting aromas. With an average finish to boot, this seemed simply destined to be a table wine.

Now it’s not fair that I had such high expectations based on the vintage and producer, especially since these grapes are probably sourced from a few different sub-appellations. It may have been machine harvested and denied a decent sorting session as well. All in all not bad, but I wouldn’t pour this wine to anyone whom I was trying to impress with Niagara cabernet franc. My grade 2.0/5

Pellegrini Cabernet Sauvignon 2000

2009-05-13T10:19:31-04:00

Pellegrini Cabernet Sauvignon 2000
Long Island, New York ($15)

The most surprising lesson I learned from Tastecamp 2009 is that Long Island reds have the ability to mature gracefully. My previous visits to wineries like Pellegrini or Raphael offered only a snapshot into their wines. Perhaps just one or two vintages of different varietals may have been available. Friday night’s Library tasting at Raphael was definitely an eye opening experience, one that bolstered my respect for the area’s well-made age-worthy reds.

This bottle of 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon from Pellegrini appeared on my local radar after a pioneer former wine blogger from thewinechicks let me know that a local liquor store had this wine on closeout for only $10. Her notes were simply, “It is exactly where it ought to be for the vintage,” motivating me to buy a bottle for a friend that gave me a few bucks to get him some interesting wine. Well let’s just say after last week’s L.I. trip I couldn’t help but recommend us opening it for a dinner we shared a few days ago.

It quickly opened up with an elegant nose of dark cherries and toast. There was a hint of bell pepper that was well within what I can still appreciate in a red. The mouth-feel was what made this wine memorable. The silky soft tannins accompanied by bright acidity struck all the right chords on my palate. The weight of the mid palate and finish were in harmony, making this glass of wine hard to put down. I would have never assumed this wine was still kicking, especially since the store had it on clearance. My grade: 3.5/5

Wild Rock Cupid's Arrow Pinot Noir 2007

2009-05-11T10:48:50-04:00

Wild Rock Cupid's Arrow Pinot Noir 2007
Central Otago, New Zealand ($20)

Pinot Noir is a grape that I’ve had a hard time really warming up to. The hype, the fuss, the price…all of these make me wary of buying a bottle I haven’t already enjoyed. My affinity for searching for those “best buys” doesn’t lend itself well to the “heartbreak grape” either. I have found some success though in the Bio Bio Valley in Chile, Friuli in Italy and Burgenland in Austria though.

This Wild Rock Cupid’s Arrow Pinot Noir 2007 found its way into my glass primarily because it recently graced the cover of Wine Spectator. I know that’s amateurish, but I find New Zealand, specifically Central Otago, an exciting region. Just under $20 it still has the potential to be an overachiever for the price.

I opened this bottle and found the aroma to be the most interesting thing about this pinot. With loads of bright red fruit and forest undertones, it brought that earthy quality I look for. As it opened a bit, raspberries and sage began to come forward as the primary aromas. The mouth-feel was light and supple with fruity, bordering on juicy flavors. Though with such soft tannins, it lacked the lengthy finish I was looking for.

What stood out the most in this wine was what it lacked in minerality. With a delicate grape like pinot, I’d expect some minerality to keep things interesting, especially on the finish. Its earthy sage-like aromas were its strong point and I would definitely recommend it just because of that. Will I buy it for myself again? Probably not. My grade: 2.5/5

The Art of Balance: Cool Climate Wines in a Global Context

2008-08-20T15:30:49-04:00

Even though I am originally from the Niagara region and spent most of my adult life in Miami, I really feel as if I came of age while living close to my friends in New York City. Long Island Wine Country will always have a place in my memory as the most influential wine experience I've had so far. Last week I reconnected and dug deeper into that connection when I attended the Stony Brook Cool Climate/Maritime Wines in a Global Context Symposium in Southampton, NY.

The two day conference featured nine speakers from across the globe who talked about cool climate viticulture and winemaking challenges and methods. When I first received the list of speakers it was the very first one from Friuli, Italy that piqued my interest. In my eternal search for interesting cabernet francs and cool climate merlots I had stumbled upon the wines of Alessio Dorigo and found them to be uniquely delicious.

That morning of day one of the conference, even before I got my pass, I ran into Lenn Thompson of Lenndevours to which I am a contributor. If you walk into a room of Long Island wine industry players, Lenn is the one guy you can count on to know the majority of people in the room and before I knew it I felt at home amongst the crowd. We sat down in the auditorium and I was immediately struck by the intimacy of the setting. Using every other row of the theater style seating gave the pourers access to us and just as Alessio Dorigo kicked off the event, the first wine was poured. Dorigo's 2001 Montscaplade reminded me of why was looking forward to his wines. This blend of Bordeaux grapes was fruit forward and perfectly balanced with subtle spice and a long finish. It was easily the best wine I've ever drank before 10 AM.

Gunter Küntsler of the Rheingau, Germany followed with two elegant mineral packed rieslings. His thoughtful and meticulous presentation just reinforced my perception that German winemakers are all about precision and dedication to their craft and style. Self-proclaimed Deadhead Thomas Laszlo of Heron Hill Winery on Kueka Lake took the discussion in the total opposite direction as his humor-filled presentation concentrated on his winemaking style in the Finger Lakes. While he was laid back in demeanor, he was very opinionated and didn't hesitate to tackle controversial topics in viticulture and what is needed to make world class riesling. His 2005 Ingle Vineyard Reserve Riesling was amazing as it didn't follow any of the fruit driven, hugely aromatic rieslings of his region.

Albariño was the next topic, presented by Katia Alvarez, winemaker for Martin Códax of the Rías Baixas region of Spain. Since her presentation was extremely technical and her accent a bit strong, I didn't initially get as much from her presentation as those that came before it, but it may have also been mental fatigue from my liquid breakfast. Both albariño wines poured were pleasant and reinforced my appreciation for that grape and its refreshing acidity.

The last presentation of the day was a roundtable with each winemaker moderated by Paul Grieco, owner of Terroir (a wine bar in the city) and a bunch of culinary ventures. Terroir was indeed the focus of the discussion and how it relates to minerality was often referenced. When asked what advice these winemakers may have their L.I. counterparts, most of them said that they should limit the amount of leaf plucking in the fruiting zone of the trellis systems. Ironically enough during the last conference some 20 years ago, it was the Bordeaux winemakers who offered advice that they should have been plucking more. Thomas Laszlo again added some fuel to the organic debate as he said he wasn't a believer, especially when the acceptable practice of spraying copper turns vines blue. While I do understand his view, he sure does put it bluntly and unapologetically. A few more wines were poured including a Refosco, a native grape to Friuli from Dorigo that I couldn't get enough of. Surprise, surprise... right? Next up: the grand tasting. That's fodder for my next post. Stay tuned!

Anthony Road Cabernet Franc-Lemberger

2008-03-26T16:00:19-04:00

Cabernet Franc-Lemberger 2006
Finger Lakes, New York ($18)

Every once in a while I find a wine that seems like its been grown, made and marketed towards people like myself. On a recent trip to basically the only wine store I go to these days, I found a wine that simply made its purchase mandatory. No questions. No doubts. No checking of my finances before hand.

There are only a few grapes that could induce this kind of reaction. And if this isn't your first trip to my site, you probably know the that I'm talking about cabernet franc. But this bottle had even more going for it... 30% lemberger! And from the Finger Lakes to boot.

Anthony Road Winery is located on the west side of Seneca Lake. I've stopped in quickly on my way down to NYC in the past and was mildly impressed with the reds, which were really the only wines I tasted there. The fact is nothing really stood out compared to the other FL reds I tried that day. I had pretty much forgotten about them until last week when I found this bottle.

Why am I so thrilled about this wine? I just think these two grapes are suited for cool climate viticulture up here in the FL and Niagara USA Region. Rarely do you see them together and I'm not sure why that's the case. I know Fox Run Vineyards also bottled a blend of the two that won an award or two, but it wasn't available when I visited. So this bottle is my first introduction to the cab franc/lemberger wines of the FL.

Dark red color with aromas of raspberry and cherry. Lively mouth feel with decent weight to it for a cool climate red. Spicy tones of cherry and vanilla linger on the finish. I drank this with my meat ragu (and used it in sauce as well) the other night and loved every sip. I don't think it's big enough to just hang out with as it begs for food with its acidity. It also benefitted with decanting and/or a good rest over night. My grade: A-

Wino Getting All Classy on Your Arse

2008-02-22T12:05:34-05:00

It's been five years since I've classed it up at the South Beach Wine and Food Festival. The event has ballooned into a huge success with tickets becoming more and more elusive every year since its inception some seven years ago. Aside from the Grand Tasting Tent which is actually on the sand of south beach both saturday and sunday, there are several other wine and culinary events, seminars, demonstrations, and tastings all over Miami over the course of four days.

Tonight's event is the Wine Spectator "Best of the Best" tasting at the suites of the American Airlines Arena in Miami. My fiance and I were lucky enough to get tickets and I can't wait to test my palate on what should be the cream of the crop reserve and estate selections of the show. I'm prepared to push and shove my way through well dressed wine snobs and their trophy wives to get samples but I just don't know where I'm going to spit yet.

Movia Vila Marija Merlot 2005

2008-02-18T12:26:29-05:00

Movia Vila Marija 2005
Brda, Slovenia ($15)

Shortly after Long Island turned me on to merlot, a friend mentioned a bottle he had had while dining at Felidia restaurant in NYC. The sommelier recommended a merlot from the Friuli region of northern Italy. Having been blown away by the wine, he managed to salvage the label and pass along the good word to me. I have since-found a couple other producers from that area which make merlot in the same minerally, lightly tannic, and vibrant style.

These wines aren't easy to locate as even wine boutiques that only carry Italian wines may only have one such bottle to choose from if any, with retail prices in the mid twenty dollar range. Movia, the Slovenian producer of this bottle is situated on the border of Friuli and Slovenia. They practice organic and biodynamic winemaking while producing only about 13,000 cases a year. This bottle was on sale for $11 (from $15) at my favorite local wine store. This 2005 bottling is a blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, and pinot noir, surprising since it is labeled as merlot.

Ruby red color and bursting with cherry and raspberry aromas. This wine jumps out of the glass and greets you with a big hello. It has a silky mouth-feel that dances on the tongue while gaining the attention of every taste bud on my palate. What makes this wine so memorable is a streak of minerality that quickens the pulse and sharpens the senses. The finish is clean and satisfying albeit not all that long. It leaves me thirsting for another sip and wondering what a case discount would come to. My Grade: A-

J.P. Tinto 2003

2008-02-16T13:44:47-05:00

J.P. Tinto 2003
Setubul Peninsula, Portugal ($6)

It's not much of a secret anymore that Portuguese reds can be quite satisfying for a fraction of the cost of the competition. I figure that these wineries never became obsessed with single varietal releases, never spent the big bucks on marketing, and never got into the Parker influenced over the top fruit flavors that people seem to look for these days. On a recent trip to a wine "outlet" the other day I found an inexpensive bottle all alone on the shelf. Psychologically speaking when I see the last bottle on a shelf I feel one of two things. One, it must be good if the rest have already been bought. Two, what if I like it and now I know I can't get anymore?

For six bucks, I had nothing to lose. This bottle is not your average Portuguese red. It comes from the Setubal Peninsula, an area I don't see often and instead of being a carefully crafted blend of indigenous grapes, it one one single varietal called Castelao or Periquita.

Ruby red in color, this wine is noticeably lighter than any red I've had from Portugal. On the nose I got dark cherry, blackberry, and black pepper. There was a noticeable element of funk coming through as well, with manure being the best word to describe it. Luckily it didn't show on my palate as this wine was quite pleasing. The word balanced comes to mind because this wine just simply went down well. Simple yet charming, it was a perfect week night match for that pizza or pasta dish. The finish was adequate, with little or no sign of oak lingering. For six bucks, I'd pick up a couple more if I can ever find it again. Grade: B-

Abad Don Bueno Roble 2003

2007-10-08T20:30:27-04:00

I've been seduced by the Mencia grape in the past. It was probably the comparisons to Cabernet Franc that motivated earlier purchases. My Spanish wine kick also fueled my interest in an unpopular grape that hails from Bierzo, Spain. It generally grows on high altitude hillsides and has been known to bring spicy notes as well as gentle red fruit flavors.

This Mencia wine was just begging to leave the shelf last week at Premier Wines in Buffalo. With a price under $10 and a 90 point review by one of those magazines, it seemed to be a good pick. In appearance this wine wasn't what I was expecting, the purple hue was inky and dark. The aroma was mainly of plum, blackberry and clove, with little else to mention. I got some nice dark fruit flavors that quickly faded and gave way to just a mouth full of palate killing tannins. Just to dry and clumsy for my taste. Damn I miss the selection of NYC wine stores. My grade: C-

Monarchia Cellars Noir 2003

2007-09-21T23:57:48-04:00

Monarchia Cellars Noir 2003
Eger, Hungary ($9)

Every once in a while I get motivated. If you read the date of my last post on this site, you might think it's been a long time coming. I think the downside of geeking out on wine is that your taste may get more expensive with time. In my case, the desire to try New York State wines and boutique winery offerings has led to less wine consumed at a higher price point. Now I admit that this weblog was meant to find those best buy gems from anywhere, so tonight I'm going back to the roots of this blog because I found one of those intriguing under $10 wines.

Lately I've been seeking out cool climate wines that would do well in NYS. I know Cab Franc does well throughout the state of New York, and I've tasted a hell of a lot of it over the last two years. So now I'm tasting Lemberger, aka Blaufrankish, aka Kekfrankos, aka ect... I've tried some Washington State examples, some NYS, as well as some from its home in Austria. Most are in the $15- $20 range and they have been hit or miss. Well this time I found an under $10 bottle from Hungary at Premier Wines in Buffalo.

This is a 100% Kekfrankos (Lemberger) wine is bursting with blackberry aromas. I also get a pinch of bell pepper and smoke on the nose as well. Medium bodied with ample acidity, it stood up well to my hot sausage and peppers hoagie, and the next day it even complimented my meat ragu I've perfected thanks to Mr. Batali. This wine doesn't bring a lengthy finish, but I think it's as long as any Lemberger wines I've had from NY or Austria. For under $10 it's a no brainer as far as I'm concerned. If your into Cab Franc, Lemberger, Zweigelt, or even Gamay, this should impress for the cost. Not so much a sipping wine, but with dinner, it rocks with a style of its own. My grade: B

Corey Creek Cabernet Franc 2002

2007-07-28T20:16:13-04:00

Corey Creek Cabernet Franc 2002
Northfork, New York USA ($20)

The 2002 growing season must have been a good one for North Fork red grape growers. It was the 02' Osprey's Dominion Cabernet Franc that motivated a spending spree on Cab Franc that me to having a the franc filled wine fridge I have today. I've enjoyed a few others from the same vintage but nothing that excited me as much as the Osprey's. A few days ago I was reminded of my first innocent experiences with great Cab Franc.

Black raspberry and cherry aromas. I thought the color is slightly lighter than the Osprey's 02' and overall the tannins seem a bit smoother. The supple mouth-feel was simply delightful. It reminded me of the 04' Jamesport Cab Franc that critics went gaga over last year. The lengthy finish had a bit of vanilla and cedar and it just left a great impression. My grade: A

Wino has a baby! (website that is)

2007-06-27T15:13:38-04:00

Even though this site hasn't seen many updates recently, my passion for wine hasn't diminished. I've learned that a home is a lot of work, and a home with 10 acres of land is a hell of a lot of work. In my spare time though I've been getting to know that the Niagara Escarpment area with fresh eyes and an open mind. There's so much to tell you about up here I could never put it in this blog. That's why I created NiagaraEscarpment.net. It's essential reading for anyone coming to the Niagara Falls area that appreciates wine, agriculture, and natural beauty.

Finger Lakes Dining at its Best

2007-06-21T15:21:28-04:00

During my last trip to the finger lakes I was confronted with several important decisions. What lake are we gonna do today? East or west side? Start north, head back south towards the cottage? Bring lunch? Stop for lunch? Where to eat dinner? Are reservations needed? When choosing a wine country dinner they are a few musts. The restaurant must have an ecletic menu. A heavy Italian cuisine focused place will not cut it after a long day of drinking. It must have farm fresh ingredients since after all we are in the country. Lastly, the wine menu must have extensive local wine options at fair prices. After considering a few winery restaurants for our first night's dinner, I ended up taking some advice from the owner of Catherine Cottages, the place we stayed at in Montour Falls, just south of Seneca lake.

He emailed us a list of restaurants and luckily I read it in time to get reservations at the Stonecat Cafe in Hector, NY. What sold me on this place was its use of organic ingredients across the board. It's located on the east side of Seneca Lake and the view is spectacular. I had some short ribs and a triple cream on crostini appetizer. My fiance and our friends loved it and it was somewhat of a relief as we are used it to gourmet eats from our new york city days. This restaurant was spot on in everyway and satisfied all the must-haves I previously mentioned. I highly recommend this place to anyone that wants a delicious thought provoking meal when they are winding down from a days worth of wine tasting in the Finger Lakes.

Revived by the New York Times and Austria

2007-06-15T18:00:18-04:00

Zweigelt in the nude.

When I think of exciting grapes currently being experimented with in the Finger Lakes and Niagara Wine countries, there are three or four that get my blood flowing. The first is Syrah. Not those jammified Syrahs that you can find anywhere. I'm talking about cool climate ones that combine good acidity with pepper and light tannins.

The other two grapes are the Austrian grapes Gruner Veltliner, Blaufrankisch, and Zweigelt. Spelling them is tough enough let alone pronouncing them. I know Hermann Wiemer is growing Blaufrankisch and Gruner Veltliner, funny enough cause I picked up a couple of each last time I visited the winery. Currently I believe they are just blending grapes in his arsenal. I've tried Lemberger, our not much friendlier name for Blaufrankisch, from Fox Run Vineyards, Goosewatch, and Seneca Shore Vineyards in the Finger Lakes. The latter of the three was surprisingly my favorite. As for Zweigelt, a cross of St. Laurent and Blaufrankisch, I know Konzelmann Winery in Ontario makes it as well as a few others wineries in Canada.

All this wine geek banter takes me to my point and the reason I got excited enough to update my site while I run around in circles of sh*t to do in my new country home. The New York Times done did an article and an interactive feature on Zweigelt and Blaufrankisch the other day. Cheers to that. The reviews were obviously Austria intensive as they should have been, while fascinating at the same time. Too bad I'm not in NYC anymore cause I don't think I'll find these wines in my area. So if you can, try some of them for me.

Marques de Gelida 2002

2007-05-04T12:12:12-04:00

Marques de Gelida 2002 Reserva
Penedes, Spain ($13)

In the past few months, I've gotten engaged, bought a house, and have managed to find a great value sparkling wine to toast the afore mentioned achievements. When you can't afford champagne for every celebratory uncorking, I find cava to be just what the doctor ordered. Generally less expensive than California sparklers and drier than most proseccos I've tasted, I'm rarely disappointed with the Spanish bubbly.

This particular bottle has an eye catching label, the stamp of quality from Jorge Ordonez, and it breaks the boring non vintage stereotype of cava. This 2002 is a reserva blend of 35% Maccabeo, 30% Xarel-lo, 20% Parellada, and 15% Chardonnay. There was 3000 cases produced and I assume there's not much left floating around by now.

Aromas of green apple and bread. Tight little bubbles with a pale yellow color. this wine wakes up my whole palate and refreshes with a complex spectrum of earth tones. The finish is lengthy and stimulating. By far my favorite sparkler under $15.
My grade: A-

Home Sweet Home....

2007-04-09T12:01:47-04:00

My futile attempts to update this site have failed repeatedly in the past few weeks during which my life and the life of my fiance have changed drastically. Seizing on an opportunity we felt would not be so easily attainable in the future, we took a giant step into adulthood and became home owners. This is where the story gets interesting because we didn't just buy any home, we bought a farmhouse in the Niagara Escarpment AVA on 10 acres of well drained gravelly loam in hopes of some day being able to live and work in a fledgling wine country.

Leaving the city life and our friends who are more like family has not been and will never be easy. We have had some of the happiest time in our life living in New York and crazy is the word I might describe our sudden decision to leave but my family lives in the area and we've been interested in what's been going on agriculturally here for a couple years.

The farmhouse predates the 1870's and it lies just south of Lake Ontario. There is a rather large vineyard and winery opening across the street and the area in general is packed with historical sites, farm stands, and sleepy cottage towns with harbors and parks. There is a creek that runs through the north west corner of our property in which trout make there way up to spawn and there is never a moment where we aren't without some geese or wildlife in view.

In the coming weeks I'm going to share my experiences in what may be the most foreign environment I've ever lived as well as touch on what's happening locally here. I'm truly excited to be close to Niagara, Ontario too because it has much to offer in terms of culinary options and a maturing wine industry. My internet is not hooked up yet as I am waiting for the satellite company, that's right I said satellite company, to install it. Oh my... what have we gotten ourselves into?

A tasting and two bottles...

2007-03-07T10:38:17-05:00

I managed to motivate myself to Astor Wines last Saturday for a 10 winemaker event representing the natural wines of Jenny and Francios. This store has thrown down some large tastings in the past and I was looking forward to this one. While I'm not one to complain or tell a store how they should run their business, but I thought that Astor just didn't take advantage of the colossal space they have. They put three winemakers at their new tasting bar and the other seven shoulder to shoulder at one not so long table. It wasn't a recipe for a personable wine tasting that invites questions and conversation. Anyway since I don't speak French I probably wouldn't have learned much anyway.

While I was there I had to pick up a couple bottles. In my search for cool climate grape based wines, I chose a Lemberger from Washington State vineyards that Dr. Vino has recommended in the past. My addiction to south american wines lured me into buying a cheap Syrah from Uraguay as well. It wasn't more than two days later I had gone through both and now I can't wait to get my hands on one of them again.

Shooting Star Blue Franc 2004
Yakima Valley, Washington ($15)

Jed Steele bottles his Yakima Valley Lemberger (aka Blaufrankisch) in California under his Shooting Star label. Finding the name to be lacking in marketability, he choose the Blue Franc title and included a French Franc note to grace the bottle. I've had a couple bottles of Lemberger recently, one from Austria and another from the Fox Run Winery in the Finger Lakes.

Ruby red color. Earthy aromas of red berries and spice. Juicy mouth feel with supple tannins. Very soft and round. This really reminded me of Cab Franc on the nose and Syrah in flavor with Carmenere like sweet tannins. Anyone who reads this blog should know this is the kind of wine I would get excited about. The finish is average, and I think the lack of oak limits the length, but the ripe fruit and spice make up for it. My grade: A-

Monte De Luz Syrah 2005
San Jose, Uruguay ($7)

Only my second wine from Uruguay, this bottle was only $7 and I figured it was worth a shot. The other wine I had from this country was a Tannat and Cab Franc based blend. It wasn't anything to write home about so my expectations for this one in the same price range weren't high.

Smoky dark fruit aroma and purple in color. The flavor was similar to an over ripe Merlot and extremely one dimensional. Slightly acidic with obvious heat on the finish. I didn't even come close to finishing this wine. My grade: C-

Update on last post

2007-02-28T11:35:33-05:00

I found this link the day after my last post on Pinot Noir on the Niagara Escarpment, USA. Business must be booming for Warm Lake Estate to be expanding its plantings by 50%.

Quick taste of Warm Lake

2007-02-25T15:12:02-05:00

Warm Lake Estate has literally put the Niagara Escarpment AVA on the map. Banking on a climate that has been compared to Burgandy, they have found investors from around the globe to plant 45 acres of pinot noir. The winery has been open for only a few years but has been successful at distributing their wine throughout the state and beyond. Their location on the sloping bench of the escarpment was meticulously picked to provide an ideal terroir for pinot.

My first visit to this winery was almost two years ago and was regrettably not a memorable event. Last friday we stopped by while driving through the area and I'm glad I did cause it was an eye opening experience. Along with the tasty 2005 vintage were three single vineyard wines available to taste and buy. The point of course is to showcase the differences of each vineyard separated by soil type. I've studied up on the area's geography enough to know that the Otis and Rhinebeck wines are named after the loam soil on which they are planted. The other bottle, whose name escapes me at the moment, consisted of their newest planting and was my favorite despite the vines only being 3 years old. Each was extremely Burgundian in style and worth the hefty penny they are charging, and I only say that because the area is young and the other wines tend to be inexpensive.

Overall it was an inspiring day driving around the country up in good ole Niagara County, south of Lake Ontario. Even with snow covered roads and blustery winds this wino wasn't slowed down enough not to get a few tastes in with his new fiance and soon to be mother in law.

Fairview Goat Roti 2003

2007-02-23T09:27:52-05:00

Fairview Charles Back Goat Roti 2003
Western Cape, South Africa ($16)

Funny critters and puns make for a a powerful marketing ploy. Fairview, the South African creator of Goats do Roam, makes a more expensive wine that salutes the Cote Rotie Syrah based wines of France. Since I've been getting in touch with my inner Syrah I could not resist this attempt at an affordable new world version.

I got some red berry aromas and a generous whiff of bacon fat....yum! It took a while for this one to open up though. Fully rustic in texture and sultry in taste this one had me confused. It came hard with a mouthful of fruit, but I also was stunned by an unflattering acidity. Turns out it came hard with fruit, acid, and tannins that i compare to being slapped in the face. It cleared up to a long spicy finish but the middle palate just wasn't pleasant. I don't know if it will calm down over some time in the bottle or what. Not worth the $16 I shelled out. My grade: C