Waterlily Travel Journal

Tsunami

2012-09-30T13:38:00.000-07:00

It was scary! I was awakened from a beautifully tranquil nap in my grass bungalow on the beach by a blaring cell phone ring. I jolted up, answered, and listened...
Oh whoa, Renee Renee!!! Renee!! My friend screams across the line from Bangkok that there was a major earthquake in Sumatra a few hours before, and a tsunami warning to evacuate immediately! Is this a joke? Still groggy from the nap, I proceed to giggle and not take him seriously.
He tells me hurriedly that there is a one hour warning. We must evacuate the beach before the tsunami (estimated to be as devastating as 2004) hits. One hour. I get serious.

Leaving the island is not possible. We are a four hour ferry boat ride from the mainland of Thailand. I look outside our simple digs, and see fellow travelers departing on foot with their backpacks as fast as they can. All we can do is head for the hills. The stats on Koh Payam Island; It's very tiny, pretty flat, and roads are only wide enough for motorbike traffic. It's main source of income is cashew farming. Mostly, the only problem you are likely to face on Koh Payam is being hit on the head with falling cashew fruits. Today not the case.

Our bags were already packed, thankfully, as we had just arrived from Bangkok that morning.
(Hence the mid-day nap) Luckily, we are out the door in minutes. My friend Sara traveled with me this year to Asia, her first time. She is shaking next to me and (rightfully so) panicked. I must keep it together for us! I'm the seasoned SE Asia traveler, this is my responsibility to keep her safe. Because of this, I find myself strangely calm. I grab her arm, and we walk together toward the road. The man of the guesthouse has decided to stay. I suppose he might be thinking that he can protect his investment somehow and weather the wave coming. Crazy! But he provides Sara and I among others, a motorbike side car taxi situation for as many as can fit at once. Maybe 4?

We jump into the sidecar, and zoom as fast as we can up to the middle of the island which has the most promise for a hill. Our destination should be to the designated evacuation center, (which was set up after the devastating 2004 tsunami) which is a school. On the way over, I spot a rather large crowd at the top of a hill hanging out at the "Chicken BBQ Bar." I insist that the driver stop for us there. It seems jolly actually, a better idea over the converted school/evacuation center. Yes, if it is our time, I should think that we should spend our last hours at a party, rather than a cry-fest.

We climb the hill, and enter. It started pouring just then. There are at least 100 Thai's and foreigners. The place was super simple and open to the outdoors completely, but we had a roof, and electricity. We all sat around watching the rain, while people played guitar or their iphone radios. ( I remember someone was playing Prince) There were introductions and card games, while we all sat and waited. Many have gathered by the TV. The news report is bleak. We try to remain hopeful for each other, and the children. To be completely honest, I am hopeful. I didn't have a bad feeling. But who knows. I can't claim to know how it feels before you die. And Partly I had Sara to protect, so I wasn't allowed the luxery of being scared. I am definitely not a big drinker, and kinda vegetarian, but found myself enjoying a shot of whiskey and some chicken bbq, in this situation. Geesh, live a little if it's gonna be your last few moments!

As time passed, the reporters kept moving the arrival time back. We waited for at least four hours in the storm together. Then suddenly the news changed. We held our breath as reports came in. The first waves had hit the coast and were definitely less severe than had previously estimated. A mere two feet or something was reported. We all breathed a collective sigh of relief, and waited it out for another hour or two just to be sure. In that time the food ran out, as did the beer, and people started feeling brave enough to go back home.

People were in total shock, but so happy to leave our staged relief center.
The next day we were all recounting the event and walking around in a PTSD stupor.

Stunned, yet glad to be alive, we went on living. Swimming, eating banana pancakes, yoga on the beach. Totally surreal experience.

Dug out the suitcases...

2012-01-06T19:50:00.001-08:00

Leaving in about a week for Bangkok! This year my best friend Sara is coming too! We are going to take 3+ months to travel to Thailand, Bali, and The Philippines! yay! Keep you posted...haven't started packing yet. I have some great new ideas for Waterlily though...

In airplane world, is assertion necessary? -Or, is it an American thing? Part 1

2011-01-19T01:52:00.000-08:00

The difference between flying foreign and domestic carriers is like night and day. Last week I used frequent flyer miles to fly from Portland Maine to San Diego Cali, I flew on Delta. (Need I say more?) Anyway, my title for that blog I was going to write was "In airplane world, assertion is key." So this is in a nutshell how it went down;
The flight coming out of Portland was delayed once we were on the tarmac due to mechanical issues. (not what you wanna hear before take-off) Because they waited until we had already boarded, they then had legally 3 hours to fix the problem before passengers could deplane and make other arrangements. If they had told us at the gate then passengers would have already been trying to make other arrangements- resulting in chaos, and no one probably would have gotten on the plane. So, there we sat for at least an hour and a half in the cold with no snacks waiting to hear if the plane was fixed so we could fly on to Detroit. Finally the problem checked out- and off we went without another snag until we landed in Detroit.
Nearly every person who was connecting was to miss or nearly miss their connecting flights. My flight to San Diego was due to take off at the exact time we were deplaning. I found out that it was too delayed for 20 minutes, so I had about 5 minutes from the time I got off the plane to run from concourse C to concourse A. I overheard a passenger talking about me somewhere from behind saying, "depends on whether she's a glass is half full, or empty person I guess. . . "

I ran outta the gate, and tried to ask the first attendant I saw to which gate I was supposed to head in order to catch the flight. I didn't want to be too rude just to jump in and ask where is my gate? but the person behind me just belted out at the nice man "Phoenix!!" so, I knew that is what I had to do too. "San Diego!!" at the top of my lungs breaking up any conversation the gate attendant was having with polite customers. (This insistence felt weird to me, but I was taking cues from the older lady before me, and it worked. In this situation I guess that is what you are supposed to do. So then I RAN RAN RAN. Got to the gate. . . and . . . everyone was just standing around waiting to board. still. This flight too had been delayed due to snow. (wouldda been nice to know)
While I stood waiting I realized that I had a middle seat, which is a nightmare to a person with a bad neck, so I weighted my options. . . just let it go and don't cause any waves for the gate attendants who were already pulling their hair out to accommodate the long queue, OR be firm and just ask. I didn't want to I really didn't. The part of my personality I inherited from my mom woullda just suffered in my seat. But, my new assertion worked a few minutes ago, and I was jacked on adrenaline from all the running, so I busted into the commotion, decisively asked, and the gate attendant was quick to upgrade my seat! Lucky duck! Wow, assertion did pay off in this case.
So, that was going to be it. My blog about how you just have to weasel in with these things sometimes to get what you want. Seems kinda American. Don't take a back seat. Stand up for yourself. You are important. Yada, yada.
A few days after, I was taking a flight from LAX to Bangkok on one of my favorite airlines, Korean Air when my latest realization was challenged. . . to be continued. . .

Emerging from the dust and chai-

2010-03-13T02:52:00.000-08:00

I love to sit in the shops and watch all of the buyers from around the world. France, Spain, Italy, England- all of the accents. Everyday I'm meeting new kindred spirits working in the same fashion as I do. Some smaller businesses, some- heh, most actually, much bigger. All interesting. Every person with their different samples, color choices, swatches. This is grassroots level, this is where all the product comes from that you see everyday. Any market, shop, department store, chain, festival, anywhere. It starts here. It starts with a rickswaw ride, and a shot of chai. It starts with the dust, sweet lassis, touts, cowshit, and factory visits. Cutting swatches, visiting cloth markets, and creating designs based on this. This all. The journey, the people, the hindi, all of the accents from all over the world, and the fresh designs - we start here. The inspiration comes out of the dust and incense, and fills your nostrils. The chai fills your throat. Conversations about color, and cut arise, and are cut off by a beggar just checking in for some bakshish. Not today, "Kuuch Neyyeh". The French women is overpowering the meeting, "I dont want same like las yea. Make me good quality Gopal." I'm sitting and waiting for my turn. Just taking it all in. I have time today. Only a few more days left in India, I want to enjoy each of these moments.
I'm observing and letting my senses take over, crosslegged on the pile of cushions made from patchwork cloths, and the heaps of samples and material. Op! The power has cut! -Incredible India, as they say.

-See that jacket on the rack? It smells of these things. It's alive with the energy of this place.

Let go and trust

2010-02-06T06:55:00.000-08:00

A few hours before my departure from the US last week, my mother left me with a bit of advice; "Renee, have a good time, but don't trust anyone."

huh, I thought.

"Mom, thats terrible advice." I said. " Why would you say that?" I got defensive toward that remark."I know what Im doing and who to trust." I say. "I've been coming to Asia for 10 years mom!" After we said our goodbyes, I continued to mull over her parting advice.

This seems to be prevailing thought currently in the U.S.. Yes, I hear it time and time again from many when I'm about to travel. "Why would you wanna go over there?"
It's really sad. Not only is it sad when you think about where I'm about to travel, Thailand, "The Land of Smiles" but also because should you really be thinking that about anywhere? (Ok, perhaps countries who are in war but. . .)

I have an understanding of why she thought to say it. . .Mainly the problem is, I think most Americans are now so glued to the terrible things going on on their TV sets, that the world outside of their home seems to be a VERY scary place. If you spend all of your time watching the news, and various murder and medical programs, your fear would seem to most definitely rise! Especially, if, like my mom, you don't travel and get out often enough to witness for yourself that the world is quite wonderful! And another one; that people are generally good. C'mon folks, this isn't rocket science! I do belong to the school of thught that states that like attracts like- or what ever you put out is what your gonna get back. And I honestly believe that. But not only is Thailand one of the most friendly and safe places that Ive ever been, I trust this place, and I trust my instincts. -And if we dont have our instinct, and a sense of love and trust out there, whether it be backpacking across the world, or going to get the mail in your own backyard, god help us!

The universe is one and we are one with it.

I am soooo happy to be back in Thailand where the hearts and minds of the people are not over-run by fear of your neighbor. Rak Muang Thai. I love you mom.

la porte rouge: waterlily

2009-10-23T11:56:00.000-07:00

la porte rouge: waterlily

This is what I do. . . in Thailand (part 1, logistics/bangkok)

2009-10-21T12:50:00.000-07:00

Hello out there in blogland-
I've been getting a lot of emails about travel advice for Thailand- so I'm thinking this blog might help a few people who are going, or thinking about going.

My style of traveling;
I travel basically pretty cheaply. I'm gone for about 4 months a year, so I need to make the money stretch. My avg. favorite guest houses are probably 12.00 usd/night. I might spend about $30-35 usd/day total for food, guest house, taxis, massage, clothes, etc. You can spend less, and you can def. spend more! But thinking back on the last ten years, I'd say I always personally budget for spending about $1000/month. One way to save though, is www.couchsurfing.org and other great internet sites to stay at people's homes, and really get to know the thai's. Great way to see the country, meet the people, and stay cheaply!

TAXI/TRANSPORT/BUS
Lets start in Bangkok. From the airport, I either take the airport bus for 150 Baht, (4.50 usd) or a meter taxi. This will hugely depend upon where you are staying. The taxi is best (more convenient), but a bit more pricey, I prob. pay around 400-500 (14.00usd) Baht. One thing you could do is just ask others at the airport to share in your taxi. I do that a lot. Especially if I see backpackers, I assume that they will be staying in Banglamphu district (khaosan area), so you can share pretty easily for that.
Once you're in Bangkok, I recommend always to take a meter taxi. But this can be tricky for the green traveler. Taxi drivers like anywhere can be sharks! They can sense fresh prey! So, the best thing to do, is to be cool- look like you know what you're doing, hop in and tell them where you are going. Go into it assuming that they will do meter. But, if they quote you a price of any amount or don't put their meter on RIGHT AWAY, then politely, assertively say "meter." Then, if they say no, hop out and grab another. They are a dine a dozen in Bangkok. Always someone will give a meter rate. (not if you are on Khaosan rd., but that is another story, -just walk onto any other street and they will)
The public bus system in Bangkok is good and cheap! I do travel this way when I have time, or don't mind the heat. (but some have AC, and can be quicker) They are much cheaper than a taxi usually, to get around. - and can be so fun! But it's a matter of knowing where you are going and what number. I can never keep the numbers straight. Adventurers would find this a nice way to explore the city! -and every time I find I'm on the wrong bus, heading in the wrong direction- they let me go for free. Awww, the Thai's! They are soooo kind to visitors.

GET A LONELY PLANET or www.lonelyplanet.com
A great link to this website is, www.lonelyplanet/thorntree.com That's the lonely planet's online travel forum. Ton's of Q&A's. Which leads me to lonely planet. My favorite guidebook. Hands down. I would never buy another! Get one for every country that you are going to.

To be continued. . .

Merry Madness!

2008-12-20T11:11:00.000-08:00

Downtown Portland and the Old Port welcome the holiday season with an annual event known to locals as "Merry Madness."
The shops participating vow to stay open until 10pm, and serve wine. It was started in hopes to stimulate holiday shopping locally, and support local business owners. Sounds like a great excuse to have a party in the shop! This year Waterlily decided to do it up right with tinsel, xmas trees, and wine! (Looks like Santa even decided to make an appearance.) We welcomed all of our wonderful friends and community, and had a grand celebration! I love holiday parties!

Argentina, the new Thailand for Waterlily

2008-11-15T10:05:00.000-08:00

Ok, here I am again. . . The official update!
Waterlily Shop in Portland is doing so well. Despite the shit economy, we have been excited about our 3rd year in the shop with record sales. The store has never looked more beautiful. . . and of course, this time of year, we are busy planning the next trip.
Last year, as you might recall, I headed to India, Thailand, and Bali. These were lovely destinations, however after 8 years of going to Asia, I've decided to shift gears. Waterlily is heading to Argentina for 2009!

And perhaps its because I'm now 29, and doing a little bit of growing up, but the backpacking endlessly doesn't appeal to me this year the way it used to. I am desiring an exploration to new locales, yes, but mostly attempting to stay put in the city itself.
I am planning to head down south Jan 6th about, to March 23, and just rent a flat in Buenos Aires, and stay put!
Coffee shops, bars, shopping, writing. Thank you. This is all I want to do this year.

About 3 years ago, I met Tania, in my store, who had started a small handbag company called Viva Zapata! They manufacture vinyl handbags made from recycled bus seats from Argentina. I bought my bag, and have been carrying it successfully ever since. It is my favorite bag ever. So finally, after many years we got them into the store this summer. Since their debut in August they have quickly become the best selling item at Waterlily Shop! So, I will also be going down to Buenos Aires to work on the design, and production with Tania for Viva Zapata.

Haven't gotten the ticket yet, but holding out for that last-minute deal!
Here I come B.A.-
lots of love to everyone. Thanks for checking in on me.

Getting Started!

2008-01-17T01:45:00.000-08:00

On a turbulent plane, heading west to HongKong.
It is such a bright sunny day, though the New York air outside is quite chilly! I could see the empire state building off in the skyline, as our plane took off across the tarmac, and up into the sky. Feeling tired about now, groggy all day so far. Woke this morning at 2:15am, to start this journey from Portland- to Boston, then Boston, to NYC- and from here, at 2pm, the real journey begins!

I'm flying on Cathay Pacific which is full of Chinese people, so it already feels a bit exotic. Right now dealing with the dry cabin air, and a stomach that is in knots- but I think not from the trip I am about to take, but from the glasses of wine from last night's farewell dinner party. So, I steer away from the free mixers on this flight, and stick to my ritual plane diet of tomato juice, and pretzels for now.
And it's up, up, and away!
I am excited for this journey-
After all of the difficulty to get to the place where I am today, and I deserve the best trip ever!

The 5 day bus/train ride to Nepal

2007-04-15T21:46:00.000-07:00

Our friend Gil at Aliance Guest House set us up with the travel plans. We learned he is an expert tour guide. So, we naturally looked to him for advice on the best way to get to Nepal from Nagaar. We mapped it all out, and got our plans together, and sadly meant that we had to leave perhaps our favorite stop on the trip.

The plan revolved around waking up early, and heading for Kullu, and then Chandigar, to Lucknow, then Gorakpur, then the border town Sonali, and into Nepal. The important part being, waking up early. Not something we exactly liked or could do very well. Then we remembered that our laundry was being done, and when we arrived that night to retrieve it, they were already closed. So, we now had to wait until 9am to get the stupid laundry. So, in the morning we picked up the laundry, and went on our way, much later now. Now because we were running so late according to plan, we were going to arrive in Kullu around noon. From there, we had to take a local bus down to Chandigar.

In Kullu, we actually had to wait until the 3pm bus, great! This takes us into Shithole Chandigar at like 2am. This made us miss the train leaving from Chandigar to the next stop, Lucknow. Now, here we are 2am at the Chandigar bus station. Tired, and unable to make a decision.
I made one for us, sleeping in the bus or train station, not an option. Finding the cheapest hotel was the only way to go. We had to wait now until 8pm for the next train to Lucknow. So, we tried a few cheapest hotels near the bus station, and to no avail, all full. So, we did something that I hate to do- relied on the rickshaw driver for advice on where to stay.
He took us to a place he described as cheap, and very near the train station.
Great! We now had like 20 hours to spend in beautiful Chandigar.
He took us to the hotel, and it was the absolute worst place we've seen. But at 2:30 am what can we do? This was the last resort.
After I had asked them to change the bedsheets twice, and re-clean the bathroom, and so forth, we decided to stay. I paid half of the rent, and assured them that we'd pay tomorrow after we had changed $$.
So, here we are. The only thing to do is go to sleep at this point. The room smelled horrible, and they actually had in the end, no clean pillow covers nor towels.
So, we were asked to use a spare sheet for the pillows.

We woke promptly at 9am to the sound of Jackhammers, and pounding. Thud, thud, thud.
What the hell?
I tried to go back to sleep but it sounded like it was in our room!
So, Jake got up for his morning coffee, came back to the room, and reported to me the news.
They were demolishing our hotel!!!!!
Let me repeat- our hotel was being demolished!
I guess we were too tired, and it was too dark to see the construction site at 2am.
Not only was the building being torn down, for reasons that were not explained to us-but it was in actuality the rooms just before ours, and the entire face of the front.
So, let me explain, we had to actually duck, and cover to get down the stairs to the front desk, and to outside.
I will always remember Jake yelling "STOP" on our way down, so that we could pass without cement rocks falling on our heads!
I was up in arms.
We had still an entire day to spend in Chandigar before our train.
That was the day that I had a fast food breakdown.
KFC for Breakfast and Subway for lunch.
Used the internet, and decided to try to rest a bit before the train, Jake tried to watch a movie, but with all that banging. . .
I had reached my limit-
"let's get out of here"
So, we decided that the rest of the day at the train station, sitting on the floor, was better than this!
That is exactly what we did. We refused to pay the other half of the bill.
Caught our train at 8pm, and took the overnight to Lucknow.

We arrived at the Lucknow train station at like 9am, and immediately made a move to get tickets for the next leg, to Gorakpur.
We waited until noon at the station for the train, and finally heard over the intercom that it was delayed for another 4 hours.
We decided to return the tickets, and hoped on a bus.
From about 1pm to 9pm we were on the bus blaring Hindi movies, and music. Stopping at a few roadside dives for a Indian Thali. I was afraid to eat anything at this point beyond japatis, and rice. (So that is what I ate until we got to Nepal)
Got to Gorakpur at 9pm, and found the Hotel Bobina. Which Jake had likened to the hotel in "The Shining."
Got some rest, and were happy to have a hotel that was not being torn apart.
The following day took the bus to the border town of Sonali. That was about a 5 hour local bus ride. (Supposed to have taken 2.5hours)
And finally we made it!
Crossed the border, and into Nepal.
Yeahhhhh! Out of India.
The food tasted better, cleaner. Even the air smelled better.
We got to the bus stand, and were informed that the last bus to Pokara had already gone, and the only thing now to do was to sleep at a hotel right there on the border.
Ahh shit, I was not looking forward to a bus stop hotel.
It ended up being the best place we had stayed since Aliance in Nagaar. I start to notice a higher standard for cleanliness in Nepal.
Maybe things were looking up?

Kullu/Nagaar, India

2007-04-15T08:00:00.000-07:00

I was sad to leave McLeoud Ganj, the home of so many Tibetans in exile, and so many great memories for me. (Great momos, great mountains, butter tea, and lots of prayer flags) But we felt like we were on a tight schedule, and in order to have time for Nepal, Thailand, and all that. . .
Jake was a big fan of the famous Russian artist and writer, Nicholas Roerick, and had discovered that there was a museum dedicated to him, and his family in Nagaar, India, seemingly not too far from McLeaoud Ganj. We waited at 9pm at the bus stop outside of Dharamsala, and boarded the local bus.
I think that we didn't know what we were in for. (Us and the 8 year old monk that was clinging to us as well, on his way to Manali.)
It fastly became the most difficult bus ride of my life! The driver was on a suicide mission going so fast. And of course in the Himalayas the roads are hardly in good shape, and non-stop winding around this bend, and that bend. . .
We should have realized what the side of the bus had already been sprayed with. . .

So, Jake being the gentleman, let me lie down in the back after I felt so sick. So, the young monk, and I shared the very back of the bus's bench seat. Jake sat up, and continued to get sicker, and sicker with every lurch. He moved to another seat while I was asleep, I didn't realize that he was hacking up dinner, along with all of the other passengers.
The kid, and I managed to skirt it, but after Jake was so sick, I woke, and gave him the blankets, and seat-bed.
So, I sat there upright, tending to the boy, and the sick boyfriend. Thought it would never end.

We arrived in Nagaar around 4-5am.
Nothing is open at that time of morning,we were lucky to find a taxi driver to wake up. He took us to various hotels, and none would wake for us.
Finally, we arrived at our last option at the top of the road, Aliance Guest House.
We rang, and no sooner did a tall Frenchman in only his underwear, and red henna hair, appear at the door.
WHEW!! Saved.
Aliance Guest House turned out to be far worth the difficult journey.
Gilbert has lived in Nagaar for 25 years. He raised a family there, and runs this guesthouse with superb skill.
The food was the best we'd had in India. And the service made us feel like royalty.
The heater, the strongest.
And come to find out, we were in the closest g.h. to the museum. Which was the real purpose of our visit.
We were able to afford a long sleep in- and rushed over to the Roerick Museum in the afternoon.
I quickly understood what Jake had seen in his art, and purchased several prints, as we took in the sights of his old home, and reliks he'd collected on various expeditions all over Asia.
We stayed in Nagaar for about a week. It was just too nice.
But sadly after the museum, and several fabuluios nature hikes, we felt the urge to move on to our planned trip into Nepal. Back on the bus. . .

Seeing His Holiness

2007-04-01T08:10:00.000-07:00

So, we have just spent a few rainy days in McLeoud Ganj, just north of Dharamsala, India. We have been attending His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama's teachings, when we can tough out the rain, and find a seat amongst all of the others in the English translation section. Some Russians got so angry with us, and started yelling that we were in their seats. We didn't realize that they had put a piece of tarp down for themselves, and we were infringing. Some Buddhists! We were publicly humiliated. So, after that experience, we were really cautious about where we sat. The teachings were fantastic!

I was a bit disappointed in myself for not going more, but the rain, and seating situation were terrible. One day, we headed over for the second half, the after lunch teachings, when we got there we were told that it was over! What! It was the 13th, and I was lead to believe that it was going until the 15th. How disappointing. I thought that I had missed my last chance to see His Holiness. So when I found out that the following day would be a special ceremony for the celebration and prayer for the long life of H.H., I was soaring again.

We woke this time early, and arrived around 8 and passed through the security checkpoint, found a spot on the concrete, and once again set out our pillow, and blankets out for comfort. It was full chanting through all the streets and in and around the temple. We just sat, and took it all in. For hours, we sat. There was no English translation, but I didn't need one, just sitting, and listening to the chanting was enough. The monks started to come out, and offered sweet butter tea to the crowds. Then came the swarms of monks handing out foods of all kinds. There was a group of Tibetan school children in front of us, and they were having so much fun diving for the presents of chocolate bars, breads, and other sweeties. It was fun to watch! The Tibetans started throwing the white scarf offerings forward also. First forming them into tight balls of silk, then throwing them onward. It was a sight to see, white comets swirling, and lurching forward through the air. There were many people dressed in traditional clothing from different regions of Tibet. They formed a line, and paraded up to H.H. with chants and offerings of many kinds.

When it seemed to be almost over, I picked up the blankets, and waited over by the path that I knew he, and his important procession would take from the temple to the gates of his home. I was about 4 people back from the front. I stood for about 30 minutes there vigilantly holding the spot.
Then the procession of religious dignitaries, security, and His Holiness himself came through. There he was right in front of me!! The Dalai Lama!! I would say about 6 feet away. I couldn't suppress the tears that were now streaming down. It was magical, a powerful moment in my life.
After he and his procession walked by, the crowd scattered, and left. I was caught in a sea of Tibetans, Indians, westerners, monks, and happily made my way back to our guesthouse.
A bit later, Jake and I decided to take a hike up the nearby mountains, and explore.

Himalayas /His Holiness-

2007-03-27T07:51:00.000-07:00

Up in the Himalayas, McLoeod Ganj, where the Tibetan people have re-established themselves.
It is India, but it feels more Tibetan. We have just spent more than a month in India, and it is so nice to get a break from the chaos, and just dissolve up in the mountains. The energy is so different here, peaceful! I wouldn't imagine it to be India. We are so fortunate to be here at this time!

While Jake and I were in the Thar desert, our camel comrades informed us that His Holiness the Dalai Lama will be giving his yearly teachings in the beg. of March. (which was exactly when we were planning to go up to Dharamsala) Wow! Great timing!
-and we would probably meet them (our camel safari friends) up there too. So, this was really exciting, and seemed meant to be.
I finished up with my work of buying for a few weeks in Jodhpur, and Jaipur, and we headed up to Himichal Pradesh. . .
here we are,
His Holiness is here now, and giving his teachings, but we missed the first week, and went yesterday, our first day here. It was incredible to see him in person! I started to cry. . .
we tuned our radio onto the english translation, and sat on a pillow, on the concrete, and listened to every word-

Today was no teaching because it marks the anniversary of the Chinese occupation.
The day that we arrived the weather was fantastic!. Now it is shit! It has been raining all the time, and damp, and freezing, and we didn't bring any clothes to prepare for this. We were just coming from Thailand, and the Thar desert!
So, it's freezing, and we are lucky to have a hotel that supplies a small heater!
Must buy an umbrella.
Anyway, there were many activities planned for today,(a march, music, and so forth,) but because of the rain, we sadly didn't attend.

(It sounds like a cop-out, but understand- when we have only summer clothes, and no rain gear, and it is freezing rain, and the only solace is the tiny heater in your room, you go out to eat for example, and everything gets soaked-we spent hours just drying out and trying to get warm. So the rally, didn't seem feasible)

So instead, we woke late, stayed in bed, and had a lazy freezing cold day. It took all of my energy just to stay warm!We stayed in the hotel most of the day, only leaving for meals, internet, and a walk to the temple, but it was over, sadly, just when we got there.
So, I purchased a pair of longjohns, and wool socks, after all others were soaked!
Even all of the shops to buy an umbrella were closed on this day too!
For dinner, we decided to go to a recommended place- Pema Thang, and as we walked in, I recognized a friend from home! So, we sat with Ben, and his friend, and had a fantastic meal together, and sat astounded by about this place that would bring us all together.
I can't wait for tomorrow, for H.H's teachings, we will surely wake early, and get a seat near him, and out of the rain.
The scenery is so breathtaking here. The mountains are quite misty, but stand tall and offer great beauty from every vantage point.
Prayer flags hang off roof-tops, and between buildings, and trees- so many styles of colorful flags. They contrast the grey peaks above, and the dark green pines.

The air is so fresh, it hardly holds all of the smells of India, that we never get used to. . . far different from the desert where we have just come from.

Camel farts and so on. . .

2007-03-09T08:44:00.001-08:00

Ahh, the Thar desert, that forbidden wasteland that separates Pakistan and India, an unchanging world so far from the modern madness we call civilization. The camel safari through this enchanting land was a singular experience, something so unique and memorable. We rode in the back of a Jeep 30 Km west from Jaisalmer to the Maharajah's burial grounds, a centuries old cemetery for the Rajastani royalty, arriving at this solemn sight early in the morning. These ornately carved sandstone monuments are surrounded by massive, 200ft high white windmills that spin quietly, providing electricity for the nearby army base, while creating a beautiful contrast to the ancient memorials. After a brief visit there, we traveled deeper into the desert, stopping at a village where the natives were not exactly friendly. The undisciplined children, upon realizing that I refused to part with my hard earned rupees, began to hurl large rocks at me, and based upon their ferocity and accuracy, I would say they have had plenty of practice in this sport! Thankfully the adults stopped them from being homocidially thorough, and I am still here to relay this story to you, dear reader. So we escaped into the Jeep and pushed further into the desert. We were escorted far into the desert where a team of camel drivers waited with our fantastically retro camels equipped with food, saddles, smelly blankets, flies, and attitude. My camel had a sixth sense about me, as every time I wasn't paying attention to him, he would ram his head into me. And it's true what they say about those horrific camel farts. Anyways, after a pleasant two hour ride we dismounted in the shade of a huge tree for a lunch of dhal and chapati. We relaxed in the shade and chatted with our three fellow camel jockeys while our guides made everything from scratch. As we ate lunch dozens of goats slowly made their way through our encampment and nibbled on scrub brush and our donated banana peels. After a wonderful and leisurely lunch we trotted onward into the setting sun, approaching that dreaded country of mystery-Pakistan! Jake's father John adopted the camel command "Heh!" and applied it masterfully to his rebel camel, and they were last seen somewhere on the outskirts of Karachi. My camel continued the head butting. Slowly the desert changed from a boring scrubby scene reminiscent of Arizona to a sea of sand dunes. The ripples on the dunes were perfect and untouched, and they were so absolutely Zen. We parked our high performance vehicles for the night and walked through the dunes, and at one peak we all congregated to watch a spectacular sunset. That night the guides made us another fantastic meal, always watching for an empty plate to fill up again, and the conversation was joyful and pleasant. When bedtime came around our guides Tucked Us Into Bed! Talk about going above and beyond, these guys were great! I slept between Jake and his dad, covered by blankets reeking of camel pee, and it was so beautiful being there under the stars, After a surprisingly good night's sleep, we rode back to meet our driver and marvel at what solid outdoors men we are, having spent a whole night in the desert and all.

Accomodations- India style

2007-02-20T08:48:00.000-08:00

The accommodations in India... let me tell you- we have heard everything
"yes, sure madam you will get hot water",
"yes, clean room, no problem",
and my favorite "yes oh, that rat oh, don't worry madam- he lives here",

Our stay in India so far has been quite colorful, to say the least. Guest Houses/Hotels ranging from complete dump/shithole, to sleeping on some body's floor, to staying in a 500 year-old fort. Prices ranging from USD $2.32/night to about $24.00. (Four months of travels, and you need to conserve the $$, no 5 stars for us)

So, we thought that we'd be smart about a room on our way to Jaisalmer, India(especially after the last Mumbai experience) and prebook based on the Lonely Planet recommendations. Called ahead, and "no problem madam, saving room for you" Ok, great-

On the train to Jaisalmer, one of our travel companions met a very sweet guy who had just opened a guesthouse in Jaisalmer and was renting incredibly cheap rooms, and even was willing to take us for free to his hotel from the train station, and if we didn't like it we could go on our way. He stated that he had been coming from a wedding out in Jaipur, and was just now coming home. Lucky us to meet this guy! It seemed so easy, and sure. Supposed to be the "best views of the fort", and "very near to the fort"
So, we decided ourselves to forfeit the prebooked hotel res. we had made for sleeping inside the fort complex. Hopped in his jeep, strange that he didn't carry a piece of luggage from his travels. . . Stranger still that we were not the only fellow travelers that he cheerily met on the train. We were then followed by 4 other foreign travelers he had met and brought on.
We all get to the hotel, nice rooms, and ask "what is the price?" He says, "As you wish", What? we think- how can we choose? So I say 200 rupees- $4.65 "ok, no problem"
The place doesn't look actually all so new, as I look closer.
How old is this place" I ask another guy there at the hotel?. "Ahhh, it is a few years old." Hardly new at all then. Now I am starting to suspect something is up.
We are all in such a good mood, we didn't realize really what was going on.
We sat down for the complementary chai that morning, and then a handsome salesman boy comes up who speaks excellent English, and starts in on their Camel Safari. Ahh, now I understand, we have just been completely suckered. Jake had read about these places, they reel you in with cheap hotel rooms, and if you don't want to take their very very expensive camel safari, they literally kick you out onto the streets!
So, the man on the train actually got on a few stops before, and hustled the tourists to stay at his hotel, which after we walked out of the hotel, realized how far away from the fort it was. The fort itself is a dream- when we saw it we immediately realized just how stupid we'd been to not stay inside the complex. We secretly checked out the hotel to which our earlier reservation was made, and I felt a bit sick to my stomach! What a mistake! But, everything happens for a reason, India teaches you.
The good news is that we kept wandering, that first day, (which was yesterday) and found an even better place, that was a bit more expensive, and reserved the best room for the following day. So we just this morning checked out of the scam room, and checked into the fort, at the best hotel with honest people, and the best views. And all is well! To top it off we have actually decided to take that safari for tomorrow. We are asking for it.
That should be the next journal entry!
-Renee

the streets of Mumbai

2007-02-10T00:56:00.000-08:00

I am excited to be here in Mumbai, my boyfriend's first trip to India, and my 4th. I must say but I do have to share our story from last night. . .

It actually started with yesterday (7th Feb,2007) sitting in a Bangkok Guesthouse buying our ticket for travel on the same day. Of course being budget backpacker travelers, we opted for the cheapest flight, Indian Airlines. Same day flight, no problem!

Got to the airport, and discovered that of course, the flight was delayed by 3 hours. That would bring us into Mumbai now after midnight. We hadn't prebooked our hotel-(only a tiny voice in the back of my head called out) So, we take our flight, arrive, customs, baggage claim, yaada, yaada, and it's the wee hours by the time we get to the Colaba area of Mumbai.

Taxi takes us to our first try, the hotel name we got from the internet Hotel Bentley. . .
"full", followed by several other "sorry full"'s after that. Then a few hours later of walking with our luggage and hundreds of other "sorry, full"'s , and asking every damn hotel in Colaba, it's about 3am I have just spotted my fifth rat crossing by us. . .trying to now find an all night coffee shop to hang out and stay awake all night, we get stopped by this nice gentleman who asks us what the hell we are doing at this time of night, offers his services to speak Hindi to the taxi driver to try other hotels in other parts of town. A sympathizer. Anything, at this point.
I am immediately skeptical, been to India three times before, know not to trust strangers coming up to you at 3am. But we were desperate, and he was quite nice, a tad drunk, but professional looking, and we stood talking for a while, we soon discovered that he works for TATA as a sales rep, and lives in Australia, from Bhopal originally, and is here on business, awake with jet lag, and partially buzzed from drinks at the Taj Mahal Hotel from earlier that night. We must have been quite entertaining for him.
So, off we went first to try a Chicken Tikka Roll with him at any random place open at this ungodly hour. I of course, wanted to find a bed, but we'd only just met, we couldn't be rude . . .
1 Chicken Tikka Roll, 3 cokes, and 3 Waters later, we were headed out the door, and toward new hotel options. Now we were gonna be fine! Our new friend barking Hindi at the driver and flying all over the city- this was better than we could do on our own.

Found many places, many, many places, . . .all full. After another hour, he graciously offered his room to share at the TATA apartment building somewhere up in the hills. "Where are we headed" I remember whispering to Jake, my boyfriend, as I was in and out of sleep in the back of the taxi. Seemed very far, and quiet. I didn't care as long as it was safe, and there was a bed at this point. Well, maybe safe didn't even matter. . .just a bed, any bed.
On the lift, up to floor 7, and we sneak into the apartment, and in the room, two beds, and a floor pad. Guess who gets the floor? I offered. It seemed like Indian culture would approve of Jake having the bed over me. I crash. We crash. and finally, good night!

Wake in the morning, and I was convinced that this "stranger in the night" was absolutely who he'd claimed to be after sleepily staring up at him in this fantastic business suit!
Put my glasses on, and he informed us that breakfast was to be served when we got up, at any time, and he is off to work- we can relax, sleep in, eat, whatever.

Our guardian angel left for work, we got up, looked outside and saw the most beautiful courtyard gardens, and and realized that this place was sweet! We were set up! We had no idea where we were last night-
Breakfast was a fairytale, we were being served by the best of Indian hospitality!
I felt like royalty. The place was gorgeous, and we were able to order anything we wanted for breakfast. I didn't want to leave. (knowing what the accommodations were to be like when we got back to Colaba, on our budget.
We found a shitty place in Colaba for tonight about the size of a closet, and are praying that we find another hidden gem like last night's!