Welcome to Open Arduino

Arduino SAMP speedmeter

2011-09-12T10:14:00.000-07:00

Heare is a Speed meater by BAXX
an Arduino user.

source: http://www.smartphone-time.com/2011/09/09/arduino-samp-speedmeter/

SAMP sends vehicle speed to a php script which a program on pc reads and echoes that data to COM port, so you can plug in this speed meter to a remote pc and monitor if your friend is speeding in samp.

<-- This is computer softwere.

Arduino Led Fade

2011-09-11T08:04:00.000-07:00

Fading

Demonstrates the use of the analogWrite() function in fading an LED off and on. AnalogWrite uses pulse width modulation (PWM), turning a digital pin on and off very quickly, to create a fading effect.

The Circuit

Connect the anode (the longer, positive leg) of your LED to digital output pin 9 on your Arduino through a 220-ohm resistor. Connect the cathode (the shorter, negative leg) directly to ground.

/*

 Fade

 This example shows how to fade an LED on pin 9

 using the analogWrite() function.

 This example code is in the public domain.

 */

int brightness = 0;    // how bright the LED is

int fadeAmount = 5;    // how many points to fade the LED by

void setup()  {

  // declare pin 9 to be an output:

  pinMode(9, OUTPUT);

}

void loop()  {

  // set the brightness of pin 9:

  analogWrite(9, brightness);   

  // change the brightness for next time through the loop:

  brightness = brightness + fadeAmount;

  // reverse the direction of the fading at the ends of the fade: 

  if (brightness == 0 || brightness == 255) {

    fadeAmount = -fadeAmount ;

  }   

  // wait for 30 milliseconds to see the dimming effect    

  delay(30);                           

}

Arduino Lcd Interface

2011-09-11T07:58:00.000-07:00

LiquidCrystal - autoscroll

The Liquid Crystal Library allows you to control LCD displays that are compatible with the Hitachi HD44780 driver. There are many of them out there, and you can usually tell them by the 16-pin interface.
This example sketch shows how to use the autoscroll() and noAutoscroll() methods to move all the text on the display left or right.
autoscroll() moves all the text one space to the left each time a letter is added
noAutoscroll() turns scrolling off
This sketch prints the characters 0 to 9 with autoscroll off, then moves the cursor to the bottom right, turns autoscroll on, and prints them again.

Hardware Required

Arduino Board
LCD Screen (compatible with Hitachi HD44780 driver)
10k Potentiometer
breadboard
hook-up wire

Code

/*

  LiquidCrystal Library - Autoscroll

 Demonstrates the use a 16x2 LCD display.  The LiquidCrystal

 library works with all LCD displays that are compatible with the

 Hitachi HD44780 driver. There are many of them out there, and you

 can usually tell them by the 16-pin interface.

 This sketch demonstrates the use of the autoscroll()

 and noAutoscroll() functions to make new text scroll or not.

 The circuit:

 * LCD RS pin to digital pin 12

 * LCD Enable pin to digital pin 11

 * LCD D4 pin to digital pin 5

 * LCD D5 pin to digital pin 4

 * LCD D6 pin to digital pin 3

 * LCD D7 pin to digital pin 2

 * LCD R/W pin to ground

 * 10K resistor:

 * ends to +5V and ground

 * wiper to LCD VO pin (pin 3)

 Library originally added 18 Apr 2008

 by David A. Mellis

 library modified 5 Jul 2009

 by Limor Fried (http://www.ladyada.net)

 example added 9 Jul 2009

 by Tom Igoe

 modified 22 Nov 2010

 by Tom Igoe

 This example code is in the public domain.

 http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/LiquidCrystal

 */

// include the library code:

#include 

// initialize the library with the numbers of the interface pins

LiquidCrystal lcd(12, 11, 5, 4, 3, 2);

void setup() {

  // set up the LCD's number of columns and rows: 

  lcd.begin(16,2);

}

void loop() {

  // set the cursor to (0,0):

  lcd.setCursor(0, 0);

  // print from 0 to 9:

  for (int thisChar = 0; thisChar < 10; thisChar++) {

   lcd.print(thisChar);

   delay(500);

  }

  // set the cursor to (16,1):

  lcd.setCursor(16,1);

  // set the display to automatically scroll:

  lcd.autoscroll();

  // print from 0 to 9:

  for (int thisChar = 0; thisChar < 10; thisChar++) {

    lcd.print(thisChar);

    delay(500);

  }

  // turn off automatic scrolling

  lcd.noAutoscroll();

  // clear screen for the next loop:

  lcd.clear();

}

Arduino Bar led Timer

2011-08-31T08:22:00.000-07:00

The Arduino Kitchen Timer is a simple timer based around a 10 bar LED Bar Graph, with a Piezo-Electric Buzzer. A line of 10 LED's could also be used, and each LED represents a segment of 5 mins. Once the Arduino is reset the user holds a pushbutton and the Bar Graph counts up in chunks of 5 mins, until the user lets go of the button. The timer then times 5 mins, and the last LED is turned off, etc until the timer is finished. The LED bar graph then shows a display, and a piezo buzzer sounds an alarm.

The project is made by Ari Cooper Davis

Make it:
you will need:
An Arduino

Jumper Wires

A momentary push button

A 10 Bar LED Bar Graph or 10 Normal red Leds

A Piezoelectric Buzzer

A 10k resistor

Now build the circuit

And here is the Code

/*
  Kitchen_Timer
 
 Counts up LED's on a bar graph to indicate 5 minute icrements being added to
 a timer circuit. A button is held to count up the LED's, and when the timer
 finishes the Bar Graph shows a graphic, and a piezo-electric buzzer sounds.
 
 The circuit:
 * LED bar graph attached from pins (13-3 excluding 9) to ground 
 * pushbutton attached to pin 2 from +5V
 * 10K resistor attached to pin 2 from ground
 * piezo buzzer attached to pin 9 from ground
 
 * Note: I recommend doing this on an arduino shield, as this requires a good
 amount of wire jumpers.
 
 Created in 2011 Â©
 by Ari Cooper Davis [anonymouse197@gmail.com]
 http://www.instructables.com/member/anonymouse197/

 */

 // constants (const) won't change. They're used here to set pin numbers:

 const int buttonPin = 2;     // the number of the pushbutton pin
 const int ledPin =  13;      // the number of the 1st LED pin
 const int led2Pin = 12;      // the number of the 2nd LED pin
 const int led3Pin = 11;      // the number of the 3rd LED pin
 const int led4Pin = 10;      // the number of the 4th LED pin
 const int led5Pin = 8;       // the number of the 5th LED pin
 const int led6Pin = 7;       // the number of the 6th LED pin
 const int led7Pin = 6;       // the number of the 7th LED pin
 const int led8Pin = 5;       // the number of the 8th LED pin
 const int led9Pin = 4;       // the number of the 9th LED pin
 const int led10Pin = 3;      // the number of the 10th LED pin
 const int speakerOut = 9;

 // variables will change. They're used mostly for functions:

 int buttonState = 0;         // variable for reading the pushbutton status
 int tastyTimeVariable = 0;   // variable for defining time to wait
 int iVariable = 0;           // variable for repeating display alarm
 int tVariable = 0;           // variable for repeating piezo alarm

 void setup() {
  // initialize the LED pins as output pins:
  pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT);    
  pinMode(led2Pin, OUTPUT); 
  pinMode(led3Pin, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(led4Pin, OUTPUT);    
  pinMode(led5Pin, OUTPUT); 
  pinMode(led6Pin, OUTPUT); 
  pinMode(led7Pin, OUTPUT);    
  pinMode(led8Pin, OUTPUT); 
  pinMode(led9Pin, OUTPUT); 
  pinMode(led10Pin, OUTPUT);
  // initialize the pushbutton pin as an input:
  pinMode(buttonPin, INPUT);     
  // initialize the piezo pin as an output
  pinMode(speakerOut, OUTPUT);
  delay(1000);
 }

void loop(){
  // read the state of the pushbutton value:
  buttonState = digitalRead(buttonPin);

  // check if the pushbutton is pressed. if it is, the buttonState is HIGH:
  if (buttonState == HIGH) {     
    // add to timer    
    ++tastyTimeVariable;
    digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);
   } 
  else {
  }
  
  delay(1000);  // a second delay for adding time increments
  
  buttonState = digitalRead(buttonPin);
  if (buttonState == HIGH) {     
    // add to timer    
    ++tastyTimeVariable;
    digitalWrite(led2Pin, HIGH);
   } 
  else {
  }

 delay(1000);

  buttonState = digitalRead(buttonPin);
  if (buttonState == HIGH) {     
    // add to timer    
    ++tastyTimeVariable;
    digitalWrite(led3Pin, HIGH);
   } 
  else {
  }
  
   delay(1000);
   
   buttonState = digitalRead(buttonPin);
  if (buttonState == HIGH) {     
    // add to timer    
    ++tastyTimeVariable;
    digitalWrite(led4Pin, HIGH);
   } 
  else {
  }
  
   delay(1000);
   
   buttonState = digitalRead(buttonPin);
  if (buttonState == HIGH) {     
    // add to timer    
    ++tastyTimeVariable;
    digitalWrite(led5Pin, HIGH);
   } 
  else {
  }
  
   delay(1000);
   
   buttonState = digitalRead(buttonPin);
  if (buttonState == HIGH) {     
    // add to timer    
    ++tastyTimeVariable;
    digitalWrite(led6Pin, HIGH);
   } 
  else {
  }
  
   delay(1000);
   
   buttonState = digitalRead(buttonPin);
  if (buttonState == HIGH) {     
    // add to timer    
    ++tastyTimeVariable;
    digitalWrite(led7Pin, HIGH);
   } 
  else {
  }
  
  delay(1000);
  
    buttonState = digitalRead(buttonPin);
   if (buttonState == HIGH) {     
    // add to timer    
    ++tastyTimeVariable;
    digitalWrite(led8Pin, HIGH);
   } 
  else {
  }

 delay(1000);

    buttonState = digitalRead(buttonPin);
   if (buttonState == HIGH) {     
    // add to timer    
    ++tastyTimeVariable;
    digitalWrite(led9Pin, HIGH);
   } 
  else {
  }

 delay(1000);

     buttonState = digitalRead(buttonPin);
    if (buttonState == HIGH) {     
    // add to timer    
    ++tastyTimeVariable;
    digitalWrite(led10Pin, HIGH);
   } 
  else {
  }

  // The above code runs to add 1 to the tastyTimeVariable if the button is
  // pressed, so that the arduino knows how long it should time for.

 delay(1000);
 
 digitalWrite(led10Pin, LOW);
 digitalWrite(led9Pin, LOW);
 digitalWrite(led8Pin, LOW);
 digitalWrite(led7Pin, LOW);
 digitalWrite(led6Pin, LOW);
 digitalWrite(led5Pin, LOW);
 digitalWrite(led4Pin, LOW);
 digitalWrite(led3Pin, LOW);
 digitalWrite(led2Pin, LOW);
 digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);

 delay(1000);

  // The above code turns all LED's off, so as to make sure they do not
  // interfere later on in the coding.

 if (tastyTimeVariable == 0) {
 }

 else if (tastyTimeVariable == 1) {
  digitalWrite (ledPin, HIGH);
  delay(300L * 1000L);  // 5 minutes. This can be changed to change increments
 }
 
 else if (tastyTimeVariable == 2) {
  digitalWrite (led2Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (ledPin, HIGH);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led2Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  }

 else if (tastyTimeVariable == 3) {
  digitalWrite (led3Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led2Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (ledPin, HIGH);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led3Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led2Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  }
 
 else if (tastyTimeVariable == 4) {
  digitalWrite (led4Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led3Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led2Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (ledPin, HIGH);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led4Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led3Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led2Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  }
  
 else if (tastyTimeVariable == 5) {
  digitalWrite (led5Pin, HIGH); 
  digitalWrite (led4Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led3Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led2Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (ledPin, HIGH);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led5Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led4Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led3Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led2Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  }
  
 else if (tastyTimeVariable == 6) {
  digitalWrite (led6Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led5Pin, HIGH); 
  digitalWrite (led4Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led3Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led2Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (ledPin, HIGH);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led6Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led5Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led4Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led3Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led2Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  }
  
  else if (tastyTimeVariable == 7) {
  digitalWrite (led7Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led6Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led5Pin, HIGH); 
  digitalWrite (led4Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led3Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led2Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (ledPin, HIGH);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led7Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led6Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led5Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led4Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led3Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led2Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  }
  
  else if (tastyTimeVariable == 8) {
  digitalWrite (led8Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led7Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led6Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led5Pin, HIGH); 
  digitalWrite (led4Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led3Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led2Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (ledPin, HIGH);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led8Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led7Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led6Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led5Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led4Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led3Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led2Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  }
  
  else if (tastyTimeVariable == 9) {
  digitalWrite (led9Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led8Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led7Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led6Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led5Pin, HIGH); 
  digitalWrite (led4Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led3Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led2Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (ledPin, HIGH);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led9Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led8Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led7Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led6Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led5Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led4Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led3Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led2Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  }
  
  else if (tastyTimeVariable == 10) {
  digitalWrite (led10Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led9Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led8Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led7Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led6Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led5Pin, HIGH); 
  digitalWrite (led4Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led3Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (led2Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite (ledPin, HIGH);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led10Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led9Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led8Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led7Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led6Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led5Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led4Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led3Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  digitalWrite (led2Pin, LOW);
  delay(300L * 1000L);
  }
  
  else if (tastyTimeVariable > 10)  {
  }
  
  if (tastyTimeVariable == 0)  {
  }
  
  else {
    
    for(int iVariable = 0; iVariable < 1000; iVariable++) { // alarm length
    
  digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);
  delay(100);
  digitalWrite(led2Pin, HIGH);
  delay(100);
  digitalWrite(led3Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);
  delay(100);
  digitalWrite(led4Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite(led2Pin, LOW);
  delay(100);
  digitalWrite(led5Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite(led3Pin, LOW);
  delay(100);
  digitalWrite(led6Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite(led4Pin, LOW);
  delay(100);
  digitalWrite(led7Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite(led5Pin, LOW);
  delay(100);
  digitalWrite(led8Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite(led6Pin, LOW);
  delay(100);
  digitalWrite(led9Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite(led7Pin, LOW);
  delay(100);
  digitalWrite(led10Pin, HIGH);
  digitalWrite(led8Pin, LOW);
  delay(100);
  digitalWrite(led9Pin, LOW);
  delay(100);
  digitalWrite(led10Pin, LOW);
  delay(400);
  
  // The above code creates a loading bar effect with the LED's
  
  for(int tVariable = 0; tVariable < 5; tVariable++) {  // another loop function
    analogWrite(speakerOut, 150);
    delay(50);
    analogWrite(speakerOut, 0);
    delay(50);
    analogWrite(speakerOut, 5);
    delay(50);
    analogWrite(speakerOut, 0);
    delay(50);
    }
    
    // The above code creates a buzzer noise alarm
    
   }
  }
  
}

And at last the proof Video

Building Breadboard Sanguino

2011-08-31T04:35:00.000-07:00

Parts
Breadboard

Atmega644

16MHz crystal

momentary switch

4 x .1uF capacitor

2 x 22pF capacitor

10K resistor

And some wire.

Put the bread board down vertically. Row 1 at top, blue rail left, red rail right.
Place the 644p into the bread board. Pin 1 into bread board hole 10D.
Place the momentary switch's pins into bread board 1D, 1F, 3D, and 3F.
Place the crystal into rows 31E and 33E
Place a .1 uF cap from 9E to 9F. This is the reset on RTS cap. We'll be "building" a serial port on the left side, rows 4-9.
Place a .1 uF cap from 18I to 19I. Decouple AREF from AGND.
Place a .1 uF cap from 19I to 20I. Decouple AVCC from AGND. Yep, 19I, has 2 cap leads in it. It's a tight fit but can be done.
Place a .1 uF cap from 19C to 20C. Decouple VCC from GND.
Place 10K resistor from left VCC rail to 18A. This is the pull up resistor for RESET. Strictly speaking it isn't necessary. The 644p has an internal pull up resistor. But it's a little tiny one. Common practice seems to be to use a bigger one off chip.
Place a 22pf capacitor from left GND rail to 31A.
Place a 22pf capacitor from left GND rail to 33A.

** Wires **
1A to left GND. Part of the reset circuit from momentary switch to ground. Pressing switch connects reset to ground, resetting the chip. Also bridges GND from left GND rail to right GND rail through momentary switch.
1J to right GND rail.
3C to 9B. This will carry RESET from the RESET cap to the momentary switch.
4J to GND. Carry GND to serial port.
6J to VCC. Carry VCC to serial port.
7A to 23A, and 7E to 7G. Bring Rx to serial port.
8A to 24A, and 8E to 8G. Bring Tx to serial port.
9C to 18C. Bring RESET from chip to reset cap.
18J to right VCC. AREF.
19A to left VCC, chip VCC.
19J to right GND. AGND.
20A to left GND, chip GND.
20J to right VCC. AVCC.
21C to 31C. XTAL from chip to crystal.
22C to 33C. XTAL from chip to crystal.

Serial "port" is on the breadboard side B, column h, rows 4-9. FTDI USB cable black wire to row 4, green to row 9.
The FTDI cable has a female header. The short side of a male header is too short to fit into the breadboard. Easiest if you have them, is to use double length male headers to connect FTDI female connector to bread board hole. More likely you'll need to take two of the 6 pin male headers, and solder the short legs to each other. See the picture. Normally I use shrink fit tubing over bare wire after I solder to protect against shorts. But, there's no way to get them on in this case. So just solder REAL carefully.
To use the serial port, plug the FTDI cable into your computer and into the double sided male header you just created, which in turn is placed into the breadboard.

ICSP "port" is on side A, column B, rows 15-20.
Both the AVR MK-ISP2 and the USBTiny use a 6 pin ICSP female header, in a 2 row by 3 pin configuration. We need to make a cable going from a 2x3 male header to a 1x6 male header. We need to make the following cable using text mode "art":
Note, we are looking at the 2x3 header from the bottom. That is, at the pins.
To construct this cable, use either a crimping tool or solder. If you solder, split the ribbon cable back far enough that you can get in a bit of heatshrink without it shrinking when you solder the wire to the short side of the pin. After the wire is soldered, pull down the heat shrink to cover the joint, then shrink the tubing.
To use the ICSP port, plug your programmer into your computer, and the converter cable you created above into the 2x3 female connector of the programmer's cable. Green pin is pin 1, black is pin 6. Now plug the 1x6 end of the converter cable into the breadboard. Grey pin in hole 15B, Black in hole 20B.

Build a Sanguino

2011-08-31T04:00:00.000-07:00

For Building an Sanguino you will need the Sanguino kit, you can bay it here :

Sanguino Kit

Mounting Instructions :

This is the Sanguino PCB

These Are The Components :

Solder Pin Headers

The pin headers are supposed to point down so you can insert the Sanguino into a breadboard. Make sure they are soldered in straight (perpendicular to the board.) An easy way to do this is to solder in one pin on each end of the row so that you can easily adjust them. Once they are straight, solder the rest of the pins.

10K resistor

Solder the resistor in any orientation. It is marked brown / black / orange.

22pF capacitors

These are the tiny yellow capacitors. They can be soldered in any orientation.

Serial Headers

Solder in the right-angle headers into the end of the board as shown.

40-pin DIP Socket

Line up the DIP socket so that the dimple on one end lines up with the dimple on the silkscreen. Solder each pin in.

Red and Green LEDs

The LEDs need to be inserted in the proper orientation. The short leg of the LED goes into the flat side of the LED silkscreen.

16mhz Crystal

This is the crystal oscillator. It may be soldered in any orientation.

1N4001 Diode

This is the polarity protection diode. It needs to be soldered in in the proper orientation. There is a band on the diode. Line it up with the band on the silkscreen and solder it in.

Reset Button

The button can only be inserted into the PCB in one orientation. Insert it and then solder it in.

1K Resistors

These are the resistors for the LEDs. They need to be mounted vertically, so bend one lead over and solder the resistors into the board.

100nF Ceramic Capacitors

The ceramic capacitors can be soldered in any orientation. There are 4 of them. Solder them all in.

Auto Reset Jumper Header

This is the jumper to enable/disable autoreset. Solder in a 2-pin header. It helps if its soldered in straight.

Put the jumper onto the header you just soldered it on. This enables the auto-reset functionality.
THIS IS IMPORTANT:
If you skip this step, you'll have to press reset every time before you upload your sketch.

Power Selector

This switch allows you to choose between USB and External power. Solder it in any orientation.

JTAG Header

This is the header to access the JTAG functionality. There is a notch in the IDC header that should line up with the silkscreen.

DC Power Jack

This is the jack for power input. It will take quite a bit of solder to solder it into place, so don't be shy.

ICSP Header

This is the header to directly flash the atmega644P chip. The pins can be soldered in any direction.

100uF Electrolytic Capacitors

These capacitors need to be soldered in the proper orientation. One side is marked as negative. The other pin is positive. Insert the positive leg in the side marked positive. It should look like that pictures.

7805

This is the power regulator. Solder it so that the metal backing tab faces outwards.

Insert atmega644P

Now is time to insert the atmega644P chip. Line the dimple up with the socket (and more importantly the silkscreen). Take care to not break / severely bend any legs as you insert it.

Now you can use it!

Sanguino

2011-08-30T01:16:00.000-07:00

Sanguino is an open source hardware like Arduino( infect it use the Arduino Ide)but it has some additional I/O pins for example it has 32 total general purpose I/O pins, 64K flash memory, 2K EEPROM etc.. the Main Processor is atmega644P and obviously its 100% open source.

When music meets Arduino

2011-08-29T06:19:00.000-07:00

A beautiful project by [Leigh Davis]. It is a brilliant proof of how Arduino fits into virtually any sphere of thought and is the shortest path for a creator realizing his idea in reality.

He writes:

I began the first few days by developing a stand alone application build in MaxMSP that understands the notes that a play on my (recently purchased second-hand) flute. I set the range from low C right up to the 3rd octave D. Each note of the chromatic scale triggers a bang, which is coloured uniquely to the other notes bang messages.

The bang message then sets the corresponding color to the display screen on the application. Which will in turn send a signal to the arduino to dispense the corresponding oil color on water according to the different notes. (Something like a physical Milkdrop!)He further plans to control different LEDs, motors and the likes using the Rayne application.

Arduino Ir Remote Control

2011-08-29T03:05:00.000-07:00

Hello
Today i've re build my old project.
Here is the schematic :
You can use any type of ir receiver with your arduino, i've use an old ir receiver form my brooked tv.

after Wiring up all upload this code into your Arduino:

/* 5 Channel ir remote control
Created by Asghar Furqan
A fully open-sourse program!

---------------------------------------------------------
circuit:
ir module connected to pin 2(Digital)
led 1-2-3-4-5 connected to pin 3-4-5-6-7
*/

#include

int RECV_PIN = 2;
int led1 = 7;
int led2 = 3;
int led3 = 4;
int led4 = 5;
int led5 = 6;

IRrecv irrecv(RECV_PIN);

decode_results results;

void setup()
{
Serial.begin(9600);
irrecv.enableIRIn(); // Start the ir receiver
pinMode(led1, OUTPUT);
pinMode(led2, OUTPUT);
pinMode(led3, OUTPUT);
pinMode(led4, OUTPUT);
pinMode(led5, OUTPUT);
}

void loop() {

if (irrecv.decode(&results)) {
Serial.println(results.value, DEC);

if(results.value == 16705559) //if you want to configure with your remote controll change the results.value
digitalWrite(led1, HIGH); // set the LED on
if (irrecv.decode(&results)) {
Serial.println(results.value, DEC);
if(results.value == 16656599)
digitalWrite(led1, LOW); // set the LED off

irrecv.resume(); // Receive the next value

if(results.value == 16672919)
digitalWrite(led2, HIGH); // set the LED on
if(results.value == 16697399)
digitalWrite(led2, LOW); // set the LED off

irrecv.resume(); // Receive the next value

if(results.value == 16689239)
digitalWrite(led3, HIGH); // set the LED on
if(results.value == 16664759)
digitalWrite(led3, LOW); // set the LED off

irrecv.resume(); // Receive the next value

if(results.value == 16668839)
digitalWrite(led4, HIGH); // set the LED on
if(results.value == 16676999)
digitalWrite(led4, LOW); // set the LED off

irrecv.resume(); // Receive the next value

if(results.value == 16674959)
digitalWrite(led5, HIGH); // set the LED on
if(results.value == 16650479)
digitalWrite(led5, LOW); // set the LED off

irrecv.resume(); // Receive the next value

}

}
}

Arduino And motor shield

2011-08-28T03:11:00.000-07:00

Introduction

Arduino is a great starting point for electronics, and with a motor shield it can also be a nice tidy platform for robotics and mechatronics. Here is a design for a full-featured motor shield that will be able to power many simple to medium-complexity projects.

2 connections for 5V 'hobby' servos connected to the Arduino's high-resolution dedicated timer - no jitter!
Up to 4 bi-directional DC motors with individual 8-bit speed selection (so, about 0.5% resolution)
Up to 2 stepper motors (unipolar or bipolar) with single coil, double coil, interleaved or micro-stepping.
4 H-Bridges: L293D chipset provides 0.6A per bridge (1.2A peak) with thermal shutdown protection, 4.5V to 36V
Pull down resistors keep motors disabled during power-up
Big terminal block connectors to easily hook up wires (10-22AWG) and power
Arduino reset button brought up top
2-pin terminal block to connect external power, for seperate logic/motor supplies
Tested compatible with Mega, Diecimila, & Duemilanove

How to use

DC motors

DC motors are used for all sort of robotic projects. The motor shield can drive up to 4 DC motors bi-directionally. That means they can be driven forwards and backwards. The speed can also be varied at 0.5% increments using the high-quality built in PWM. This means the speed is very smooth and won't vary!

Note that the H-bridge chip is not really meant for driving loads over 0.6A or that peak over 1.2A so this is for small motors. Check the datasheet for information about the motor to verify its OK.

To connect a motor, simply solder two wires to the terminals and then connect them to either the M1, M2, M3, or M4. Then follow these steps in your sketch

Make sure you include
Create the AF_DCMotor object with AF_DCMotor(motor#, frequency), to setup the motor H-bridge and latches. The constructor takes two arguments.
The first is which port the motor is connected to, 1, 2, 3 or 4.
frequency is how fast the speed controlling signal is.
For motors 1 and 2 you can choose MOTOR12_64KHZ, MOTOR12_8KHZ, MOTOR12_2KHZ, or MOTOR12_1KHZ. A high speed like 64KHz wont be audible but a low speed like 1KHz will use less power. Motors 3 & 4 are only possible to run at 1KHz and will ignore any setting given
Then you can set the speed of the motor using setSpeed(speed) where the speed ranges from 0 (stopped) to 255 (full speed). You can set the speed whenever you want.
To run the motor, call run(direction) where direction is FORWARD, BACKWARD or RELEASE. Of course, the Arduino doesn't actually know if the motor is 'forward' or 'backward', so if you want to change which way it thinks is forward, simply swap the two wires from the motor to the shield.

Code

#include 


AF_DCMotor motor(2, MOTOR12_64KHZ); // create motor #2, 64KHz pwm

void setup() {
  Serial.begin(9600);           // set up Serial library at 9600 bps
  Serial.println("Motor test!");
  
  motor.setSpeed(200);     // set the speed to 200/255
}

void loop() {
  Serial.print("tick");
  
  motor.run(FORWARD);      // turn it on going forward
  delay(1000);

  Serial.print("tock");
  motor.run(BACKWARD);     // the other way
  delay(1000);
  
  Serial.print("tack");
  motor.run(RELEASE);      // stopped
  delay(1000);
}

Steppers

bi-polar 4 wire stepper

Stepper motors are great for (semi-)precise control, perfect for many robot and CNC projects. This motor shield supports up to 2 stepper motors. The library works identically for bi-polar and uni-polar motors
For unipolar motors: to connect up the stepper, first figure out which pins connected to which coil, and which pins are the center taps. If its a 5-wire motor then there will be 1 that is the center tap for both coils. Theres plenty of tutorials online on how to reverse engineer the coils pinout. The center taps should both be connected together to the GND terminal on the motor shield output block. then coil 1 should connect to one motor port (say M1 or M3) and coil 2 should connect to the other motor port (M2 or M4).
For bipolar motors: its just like unipolar motors except theres no 5th wire to connect to ground. The code is exactly the same.
Running a stepper is a little more intricate than running a DC motor but its still very easy

Make sure you include
Create the stepper motor object with AF_Stepper(steps, stepper#) to setup the motor H-bridge and latches. Steps indicates how many steps per revolution the motor has. a 7.5degree/step motor has 360/7.5 = 48 steps. Stepper# is which port it is connected to. If you're using M1 and M2, its port 1. If you're using M3 and M4 its port 2
Set the speed of the motor using setSpeed(rpm) where rpm is how many revolutions per minute you want the stepper to turn.
Then every time you want the motor to move, call the step(#steps, direction, steptype) procedure. #steps is how many steps you'd like it to take. direction is either FORWARD or BACKWARD and the step type is SINGLE, DOUBLE. INTERLEAVE or MICROSTEP.
"Single" means single-coil activation, "double" means 2 coils are activated at once (for higher torque) and "interleave" means that it alternates between single and double to get twice the resolution (but of course its half the speed). "Microstepping" is a method where the coils are PWM'd to create smooth motion between steps.
You can use whichever stepping method you want, changing it "on the fly" to as you may want minimum power, more torque, or more precision.
By default, the motor will 'hold' the position after its done stepping. If you want to release all the coils, so that it can spin freely, call release()
The stepping commands are 'blocking' and will return once the steps have finished. If someone wants to be awesome and write a version of the library that does background stepping that would be cool! :)

Code

#include 


AF_Stepper motor(48, 2);


void setup() {
  Serial.begin(9600);           // set up Serial library at 9600 bps
  Serial.println("Stepper test!");

  motor.setSpeed(10);  // 10 rpm   

  motor.step(100, FORWARD, SINGLE); 
  motor.release();
  delay(1000);
}

void loop() {
  motor.step(100, FORWARD, SINGLE); 
  motor.step(100, BACKWARD, SINGLE); 

  motor.step(100, FORWARD, DOUBLE); 
  motor.step(100, BACKWARD, DOUBLE);

  motor.step(100, FORWARD, INTERLEAVE); 
  motor.step(100, BACKWARD, INTERLEAVE); 

  motor.step(100, FORWARD, MICROSTEP); 
  motor.step(100, BACKWARD, MICROSTEP); 
}

If you want two stepper motors to step at once you'll need to write something like this:

void doublestep (int steps, int direction, int style) {
  while (steps--) {
    motor1.step(1, direction, style); 
    motor2.step(1, direction, style); 
  }
}

Arduino easy projects for beginners

2011-08-27T04:12:00.000-07:00

yesterday i've bought the Arduino Uno at an local electronic store.

and now i want make some simple projects with him.

if you want to create some easy projects follow my blog .

here i link some easy projects :

Blink an led :

We have added a 1K resistor to pin 13, what allows the immediate connection of a LED between the pin and the ground.

LEDs have polarity, which means they will only light up if you orient the legs properly. The long leg is typically positive, and shoud connect to pin 13. The short leg connects to GND; the buld of the LED will also typically have a flat edge on the side. If the LED doesn't light up, trying reversing the legs.

After wiring up you will upload this code from Arduino enviroment to your Arduino Bord.

/* Blinking LED
* ------------
*

* turns on and off a light emitting diode(LED) connected to a digital
* pin, in intervals of 2 seconds. Ideally we use pin 13 on the Arduino
* board because it has a resistor attached to it, needing only an LED
*
* Created 1 June 2005
* copyleft 2005 DojoDave
* http://arduino.berlios.de
*
* based on an orginal by H. Barragan for the Wiring i/o board
*/
int ledPin = 13; // LED connected to digital pin 13
void setup() {
pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT); // sets the digital pin as output
}
void loop() { digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); //
   delay(1000); // waits for a second
digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); // sets the LED off
delay(1000); // waits for a second
}

Arduino DashBoard App

2011-08-27T04:09:00.001-07:00

[Jonathan Clark] from Lousiville Hackerspace has developed an application that is constantly checking the state of I/O pin of your Arduino board, updating a window on your desktop.

ArduinoDashboard is an application for viewing analog and digital pin sensor values from an arduino in real time. This can be used with any arduino sketch and now has compiled versions with no need to download processing.org ide. Sources included as well.

via [HackADay] [Adafruit] source [lvl1.org]

Introducing Priya in arduino world

2011-08-27T04:07:00.000-07:00

I’m happy to announce that the Arduino family is now bigger: Priya Kuber (twitter,site) is going to help us out on our blogging queue as well as managing several internal projects. She is living in New Dehli, and has fallen in love for electronics & tinkering at the age of 12 in her fathers’ workshop at home. She is also the co-founder of9circuits, one of our indian distributor.

Young, yet well experienced, she is familiar with coding and in dealing with online communities.

Above all, I am challenged to share the Arduino Blog with a woman (in a man-oriented world like electronics is) from India (one of the most relevant coutries in terms of electronics and components supply).

Stay tuned for new, upcoming surprises!

Android Dev Kit On The Ben Heck Show

2011-08-27T04:06:00.000-07:00

The Ben Heck Show, the DIY format on Revision3, explains and uses the Android Development Kit.

On this weeks The Ben Heck Show, Ben jumps right in to using the Android Accessory Development Kit and gets started on building a Baby Rocker that simulates vehicle motion from logged Android sensor data.

It’s amazing to see different efforts in building detailed instructions in using the board and the way this Arduino-to-Android device is changing the design for apps and physical interfaces. For more info check our ADK LABs page.

via [Make] [r/Android] source [tbhs/r3]

The Tacit Project Lets Your Wrist Guide You

2011-08-27T04:05:00.001-07:00

[Steve Hoefer] shared an interesting solution for visually impaired people.

It measures the distance to things and translates that into pressure on the wrist.[...] It’s wrist mounted and senses objects from about 1 inch (2 cm) to 10 feet (3.5m). It has generally fast response time (fractions of a second) to quickly navigate complex environments.

It’s not the first time we see Arduino used for custom solutions to navigate a room and / or enviroment, replacing the sight (above all, you’ll remember the [Bat Googles] project from USI and [Halo], the winner project of Humana competition).

“Tacit”, that’s how’s called this cool project, is the first in moving the sensitive response area of the device from the head (closed to the ears) to wrists (closed to the hands). Steve, whom its first prototype was conceived has an headband like the two projects above, moved its device to the wrist for several reasons

The headband was a great first test, and it did work, but it had two fatal flaws:
1) The most dangerous obstacles are not at head level. Furniture and most of the other things that can be tripped over and stubbed on are waist level or lower.
2) Vibrating motors stuck on your skull will drive you insane quickly.
In addition it would be a challenge to disguise it as anything but some mad-science-looking headband, and blind people do care how they look.

Tacit is wonderfully referenced and it’s realeased in CC-NC-SA

via [Grathio Labs]

Arduino-Driven Content-Sensitive TV Mute

2011-08-27T04:03:00.001-07:00

Matt Richardson has a great blog post on Make about using an Arduino to read the closed-captioning stream from a TV using a video experimenters shield, then muting the TV whenever the name of an annoying celebrity is heard. Besides being a great idea, it’s a nicely made explanatory video. Nice work, Matt!

Matt Richardson's TV muter project. Image from makezine.com

Arduino-Controlled Robot Brings Pointillism Back!

2011-08-27T04:01:00.000-07:00

time print machine from Paul Ferragut on Vimeo.

[Paul Ferragout] realized a strange printer, with an incorporated program to print any image using a time-based algorithm. According to the grey value of a pixel on an image, the felt pen remains in contact with the blotting paper for relative periods of time.

The Arduino-controlled Time Print Machine uses an algorithm to “paint” images — portraits, still lives, you name it — out of nothing but splotches of ink. Equipped with a felt pen and blotting paper, it works like a CNC-milling machine. Program the machine to render a digital image, and the pen starts stabbing at the paper, varying the amount of time it spends on each dot according to the gray value of the respective pixel; the more time allotted, the more the ink bleeds, and the thicker the dot.
The resulting images can take up to 34 hours to print and look like bad photocopies, each totally unique. We’re not sure whether to think of the Time Print Machine as the world’s least-efficient printer or the world’s most-efficient Pointillist painter. The one thing we know is this: The machine is weirdly hypnotic. We could watch that thing drop ink all afternoon

via [FastCoDesign] source [Paul Ferrabout]

Arduino Powered 2.4 GHz Spectrum Analyzer Lets You

2011-08-27T03:59:00.000-07:00

Arduino forum user [Blibo] shares its 2.4 Ghz spectrum analyzer project on theforum. The project is based on the CYWM6935 board (wireless), an Atmega 328 and a Nokia 5110 LCD-

I finished the (mostly) permanent version of my 2.4ghz spectrum analyzer, and soldered it up. I included 3 modes for scanning (fast, slow, and ghost – like the long exposure on a camera), plus a function to display the voltage on an analog pin, and graph it (for when the oscilloscope’s not cooperating). These modes are toggled through by hitting the big push button [...] I have already used it to help setup my wireless network, (channel, location, things that cause interference), and it is always interesting to see what uses the 2.4ghz spectrum. So far, the things that I’ve noticed on the spectrum while walking around with the analyzer are:
-microwave ovens (huge disturbance in the middle of the spectrum)
-Wifi
-Cordless phones
-Bluetooth
-Wireless keyboard
-Wireless speakers
The fast mode is ok for seeing EMI, but for digital signals, the slow mode is best. The ghost mode also gives a general idea of spectrum use over a period of time.

via [HackADay] source(code) on [Arduino Forum]

The Roominator Against Conference Room Abuse

2011-08-27T03:51:00.000-07:00

If your office suffers of ”conference room abuse” you should build your own “roominator” to coordinate it:

Conference Room Abuse is where people 2 or more people randomly grab a conference without any regard to the schedule for the room. Its a problem many companies face.

[Rapleaf] tried to solve this by creating a system to coordinate the (mis)use of room conferences

The hardware consists of two parts: a display unit that’s posted outside of each conference room, and a controller unit that’s located in Rapleaf’s wiring closet. The display unit shows the current and upcoming reservations and an LED status indicator that can tell you from a distance whether a room is “good to grab”. It also has a pair of buttons – one to make an ad-hoc reservation and one to cancel the current reservation. The controller unit interfaces with all the displays to distribute power and data, both of which run over a single standard Cat5e cable. Both the controller and the displays are Arduino-based.
The software component is a Rails web site that allows for configuration and integrates with Google Calendar. Reservations made via Google Calendar are sync’d with the Roominator, and vice-versa. The controller unit polls the web site for the information it should pass to the displays.

Rapleaf open sourced the code on github, with all the instructions for the set up.

via [Kinlane] source [Rapleaf]

August Specials: Tinkerkit Servos And Open SoftWear

2011-08-25T15:50:00.000-07:00

We are happy to announce 3 new products available at the Arduino Store: two powerful servos with the standard Tinkerkit 3pin connector (T010050 andT010051) and OpenSoftwear, a book about fashion and technology by Tony Olsson, David Gaetano, Jonas Odhner, Samson Wiklund, in it’s second, revised edition.

Steampunk Record Player with Arduino

2011-08-25T15:48:00.000-07:00

A steam-powered record turntable made out of juck & re-used things.

This was made with small steam engine with a boiler crafted from a copper water pipe and carved some wood for the custom platter and base. Add some magnets, a coil for a pickup and a servo that is controlled by Arduino.

Radio Arduino

2011-08-25T15:44:00.000-07:00

Nice Oscar Belle Two Band Transistor Radio (1960s) hacked with Arduino.

What it is really doing is playing 24 music tracks that I preloaded onto an SD card in WAV format. There are also 10 tuning noises tracks that get played when the tuner is turned.
Because this is the first time I did this I had a lot of help. Firstly the chaps and chapesses at Hackspace have been very supportive in teaching me how to use and Arduino, particularly Adrian McEwan and Oomlout. Also Jingle Joe who supervised my soldering of the Wave Shield, Brox who helped me decipher the ancient mysteries of FAT16 and Esme who helped dismantle the original radio… PS I did do some of it myself!

Arduino

2010-08-27T12:29:00.000-07:00

YOU CAN BUY ARDUINO OR BUILD YOUR OWN!

ARDUINO IS VERY LOW COST OPEN SOURCE PROTOTYPING PLATFORM

IF YOU WANT AN ARDUINO YOU VISIT THIS SITE : http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Buy

OR IF YOU WANT TO BUILD YOUR OWN PLEASE GO TO THIS LINK: http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Hardware ON THIS LINK YOU FIND ALL ARDUINO BORD WITH SCHEMATICS!

AH SORRY THIS IS MAIN SITE: http://arduino.cc/

What is Arduino

2010-08-27T12:27:00.000-07:00

Arduino is an open-source electronics prototyping platform based on flexible, easy-to-use hardware and software. It's intended for artists, designers, hobbyists, and anyone interested in creating interactive objects or environments.