The Christmas holiday is not officially over until the Epiphany arrives, the 6th of January, when La Befana rules and the traditional “panevin” is lit.

On the Epiphany Eve, the 5th of January, a ritual those meanings are deeply rooted both in pagan and catholic beliefs takes place: the panevin, a bonfire to lit the way for the Three Kings en route to Bethlehem bearing gifts to Baby Jesus but also a bonfire to represent the spirit of the rural culture, which burn the “vecia”, the old straw-like lady put on top of it, sign of the past year and all things we want to get rid of to give way to the spring and a better year (and a better harvest). That’s why the old men would stand back and observe the fire to foretell the coming year by “decoding” the smoke: if the ashes go straight up in the air it’s a good omen, if they flow to the west it would be a great year but better they don’t go to the est ..it will suck!

For the rest of hundreds people gather to admire the bonfire it will probably be simply another excuse to get together, have a laugh and exchange again the wishes for the New Year while having wine and cake. That’s probably where also the name Panevin came from: the pinza, a rustic sweet bread filled with raisins, figs and pine nuts, and the mulled wine are served throughout this event or rather “pan” (bread) and “vin” (wine) synonymous for nourishment and well-being as simple as that.

In the past panevin was made individually by families with the off-cuts from pruning and brushwood but nowadays is more likely to be a giant bonfire organized by local or private organisations and held in the major piazza or fields all around Veneto. This folklore event is often seen as a friendly competition between neighbouring towns to build the biggest and the most impressive bonfire. Hence to avoid the competition some bonfires are lit in the following days of the Epiphany Eve but the biggest and most renowned in the Marca Trevigiana remain the one arranged in the town of Arcade on the 5th of January with its 8/10-meters of height, pretty impressive but for once size doesn’t matter and watching the panevin burning, whatever is small or big, somehow, has a magical feel.

Curiosity:

• Only after the 6th of January, in Italy, it’s habit to finally take down the Christmas decorations and pack them away…until next one.

• Eat pinza is considered good luck.

• Despite the Befana is a good-hearted witch, she is also old and ugly so if you are ever goanna be called befana is not really a compliment for a women.

• In Italy, on the Epiphany Eve, La Befana travels roof to roof on her broomstick to fill up stockings with candies to the good kids and “carbone”, sugary-charcoal, to the naughty. The hard job of delivering nice gifts to the kids still belong to Babbo Natale (Santa Claus) on Christmas Eve.

• An old saying goes “L’Epifania, tutte le feste si porta via”  meaning Epiphany carries away all the holidays but another proverb says “Dopo le sante feste de Natal, le santissime de carnaval!” After the holy feasts of Christmas, the most holy ones of carnival! which means another festival isn’t far away at all.

Photo credits: Simone Zucchelli, Andrea Vascellari, paPisc

San Rocco is the big cheese.

This year the San Rocco cheese consortium in Tezze bagged the “Grolla d’Oro”, the award for the all around best cheese in Italy, for their  aged  Collina  Veneta. I asked Sebastiano Bolzon, president of the consortium, how he did it.

“It takes a team effort. We have a great relationship with the 22 producers that are part of the consortium and thanks to everyone here and our patron saint, we made it!”

Q: So your cheese consortium San Rocco is your Patron Saint?
A:  Well, yes, that’s  because  San Rocco is  the  saint  of  Tezze sul Brenta  where we live. But  we  have  had  a lot  of problems in the past  due  to politics, so I  was  joking with our  lawyer that  maybe one  saint  isn’t enough to solve our problems.  Our  lawyer said  that maybe  we should invoke  St. Rita.  She’s  the patron saint of  impossible cases.  Well, call it  a coincidence,  but  ever since we  created  a little sideline company called  Santa  Rita, things  have gone very well for us.

Q:  How  long  have  you been operating?
A: Since  1966.  At  that time  we had  300 members.  Now we  have just 22.  It’s  a long story… all politics.

Q:  What  cheeses do you produce?
A: Almost  too many to count; we like  to experiment  with new  cheeses, but  our  most  famous ones  are  Asiago, Grana Padano  and Collina  Veneta, our big winner.

Q: How  long  do you age  your  Grana Padano?
A: Ours  is  aged  over 20  months,  and  the Grana  that  won a gold medal is  aged  over 30 months—it  was  the  only Grana in the category and beat 24 Parmesans.

Q:  So there goes  my conviction that  Parmesan was the best…
A:  That’s  what  the  judges said.

Now  it’s  time  to taste  it…

The  Asiago is  fresh  and  sweet with a rich creaminess that  tastes like buttery and milk, a delight.  If  it were a person it would  be a 16 year old milkmaid with blonde braids.

Next  up  is  the  Grana Padano,  with a crisp  nutty flavour and creamy finish. If this  one  were a person it would  be a middle aged woman, stout  but dignified, serious and no-nonsense… with sensible shoes.

The winner of the best cheese in Italy is  aged  for 30 months and  is firm when you bite down, giving way to a full rich milky buttery, cheesy taste, followed by a finish reminding you of  …mushrooms!  If  this  were a woman  it  would be a very ample Gospel singer with  a great big smile and  a voice like velvet.

How  to test  a good form of cheese?  Give me a hammer…

Tasting  the  winner

It’s 6:00 am and Enzo Bellagamba is opening up his bar called Fiamma, right in front of the Rialto fish market in Venice. Wedsnesday is special because Enzo has some fish to buy—today he serves up sushi.

Not just any sushi, this specialty is made by the artful hands of Ciyo, a Japanese sushi expert and  wife of his good friend and chef Silvano. Enzo selects his fish carefully …boats are being unloaded with all kinds of fish to be sold today, both locally caught and not. By 7:00 am most of the tables  in the market are laden with crushed ice and fish artfully displayed. Today Enzo buys salmon, monkfish, sea bass and shrimp, all super fresh.

The atmosphere is lively — dialect and curses fly freely at this early hour.  After 8:00 am the  housewives roll in and  the atmosphere becomes a bit more respectable—but  not  much.  Each  fishmonger swears the  fish he is selling was caught only hours ago. “ Look at  those clear eyes!” and“ See… these are still moving!” Alongside the fish, there is the colourful fruit and vegetable market where you can buy everything  from dried  beans  to kumquats.

Now, late morning, the sushi is ready and so am. I order a plate with six different varieties served with soy sauce and chopsticks, accompanied by a fresh Friulano wine. By this time Pietro Grandese, Enzo’s  partner is here to help and the bar starts to fill.

The sushi rivals any I have ever had in any restaurant or sushi bar, and  thanks to Enzo, it can’t get any fresher. As  usual, I can never get enough of a good thing so I do it all again, my daily dozen pieces of sushi for lunch.

I think I’ll  be marking my calendar  on Wednesdays…

Photos: first by TracyElaine the rest by Sharla

You may know Veneto for its sights, worthless to mention the city of Venice, or its natural attractions such as beautiful Lake Garda or the Dolomites but Veneto offers also to locals and visitors lots of opportunities for a fun day out.
So if you need to take a day off from sightseeing, escape the heat from the city or break the boring, beach-day’s routine check out some of the best Veneto Theme Parks. There is plenty to enjoy out there, not only for kiddies ‘n families, some of these amusement parks are adrenaline junkies-proof.

GARDALAND

Rumors say Italy’s biggest and best theme park and also Europe’s third best theme park but surely Gardaland is a place of great fun not only for kids. Tucked away between Lazise and Peschiera del Garda, on the banks of the beautiful Lake Garda, Gardaland may be the only Italian theme park able to give a hard time to the American counterpart.

gardaland

 If you are wild about going upside down, say a lot of “ohhh n ahhhh” you could just spend the entire day on rides …just remember to empty your pockets. It’s so easy to spend away a whole day in Gardaland but apart from rides you could enjoy many other attractions like the 4D Spongebob Square Pants, shows, easy water rides to cool off or take a break in the many restaurants around the park. The good thing about Gardaland: even if you have been already the previous year you will never get bored. Every year there are new one add on, like this year addition is the Inferis, the hell themed horror house with 15 frightening sets over 1000 sqm of forbidden terror for u/14. Upcoming for next season, the X-Labs.

Tickets: €35 or with this voucher €29; kids under 1mt go always for free. It can get really crowded in the summer especially during w-end and bank holiday hence the €12 fast track pass may be a good option to skip the annoying queues..but there is only a limited number. The minus: parking is an extra fiver. Great deal after 7pm: the crowds are leaving, the heat of the peak summer hours is gone, there aren’t many kids around and the best of all you could still enjoy 4 hours of fun at only €10!

Adjacent is the Sealife Aquarium, worth to consider a combo ticket with the entrance at both theme parks at €39,50 or else consider printing this coupon for five euro off the original entrance price of €15. Sealife is open all year round. .

AQUALANDIA

80’000 square meters of water attractions, fun, entertain and relax for all ages, set in the popular seaside resort of Jesolo within an hour away from Venice. This famous water park has some really scary water rides that even the bravest can chickened out. Don’t you believe me? Try then the thrilling descent on an inflatable raft down the “Scary Falls”, a 38-mt high slide with a 60 degree slope at its end, or the “Kamikaze” a 17-mt high slide where you plunge head-first on a skimpy mat. Haven’t those names yet strike fear into anyone?  What about the “Spacemaker”? At 42mt of height, it’s the highest slide in the world and you will be slide down on an inflatable raft up to 100km/h. You couldn’t wait to the final splashdown in the pool to breathe a big sigh of relief.

Want more? Then try the 60mt high bungee jumping; it might not be as high as the 175mt launch platform on the Asiago’s bridge, but it will still give you a good rush of adrenaline.

Not really up for that much thrill? Then just enjoy the many pools, a lazy day on the sun on the grassy banks, the live shows and the many activities that will keep you fit whilst having fun such aquagym, aquabike and aerobic. At night Aqualandia turn into a popular night-out spot of the Riviera to dance the night away under the stars.

Tickets: €26 plus small locker €3; Kids u/1mt free.

Other water theme parks within the Veneto region are Padovaland, in the industrial district of Padua (anyone been there?),   and Aquafollie in the seaside town of Caorle. 

MOVIELAND

Another addition to the Garda scene this theme park, together with AquaParadise waterpark, Medieval Times and Rock Star Cafe is part of Caneva World.

It’s hard to beat the Movie Worlds-alike overseas, but Movieland makes a good day out for families where you will be likely to have your picture taken with your favorite characters of the screen, take part in a movie shot like the Rambo Stunt Show, watch live performances and enjoy movie-rides such as the Tomb-Raider Machine but it’s more like it to be a “kiddie time”.

Tickets: €24 and the 2^nd day you get in for free.

But hurry up for your share of fun, as summer is almost over and those amusement parks will close down soon for the winter break (12 sept).

Are you a fan of theme parks? Share with us your favorite places to catch a thrill or enjoy a fantastic family day out whilst in the Veneto.

Photo credits: Marco Caruso, Marika Dalloco

Haven’t made it to Venice yet? Are you a curious traveler or wish to revive those lovely memories of your time in the “sunken city”?

Now you could take a virtual tour of Venice on 3D thanks to Google Earth and explore the city from a new, unique perspective. Google has already recreate many famous landmarks on three dimensions such as St Mark’s Square, Rialto Bridge, Ponte Scalzi, Campo Santa Margherita, you could even check out the recently completed Ponte della Costituzione or walk around Palazzo Grassi.

At least now you could get a real glimpse of Venice from your computer without spending a dime. Just click on the video below and enjoy your quick fly through Venice.

Despite I am not so enthusiast about the cheesy soundtrack so-not-Venetian, I love Google Earth, it’s incredibly cool, don’t you think?

Buon viaggio!

Photo credit DanieVDM

As summer temperatures continue to rise, with the mercury exceeding the 30°C and with a humidity level around 70-80% all over the Veneto plain, it couldn’t help but escape to the coolest spots: the Veneto Mountains. But, if you find yourself in the heart of Veneto, there’s no need to get stuck in the traffic jams on the roads leading to the Dolomites mobbed by weekenders, the Mount Grappa will do!

A short drive – 35-45mins – from picturesque Bassano del Grappa (also a good excuse to stop in this town for a sip of the typical grappa), in Monte Grappa, not only you will beat the heat beckoned by a sunny but pleasantly chilly weather, but summer brings to the visitors also a new seasonal, spectacular scenery: the snow-capped peak is now carpeted with grassy meadows and wildflowers which made it the perfect setting for a relaxing day trip or to get active. In fact Mount Grappa has the perfect conditions even for the most adrenaline junkies with activities ranging from gentle walks, cycling, trekking, hiking or even the latest mountain quad excursions to bungee jumping, para gliding and hang gliding.

Driving up the Grappa massif through its main winding, sometimes even narrow, road could be a bit of a challenge but once you reach the top of Cima Grappa you will be rewarded with an inspirational vistas stretching out for miles and miles at 360 degree. You could enjoy spectacular views to the highest Dolomites, the river Brenta, the Asiago Plateau and the Valsugana Valley to the west to the river Piave and the Montello Hills to the east and, on a clear day, you could even gaze at Venice and distinguish St Mark’s tower in the distance.

But Mount Grappa is not only a refreshing escape into the “wild”, it’s as well an historical, sacred battleground theatre of the bloody battle of the Italian against the Austro-Hungarian troops fought in the winter 1917 during the First World War. There were great losses on both sides of the lines and the massive, circular mausoleum standing at the summit hosts the remains of 12,615 fallen Italian soldiers (of which 10,332 are unknown) and 10.295 Austrian soldiers than never came back to their country.

Connecting the mausoleum with Portale Roma and the Observatory is Via Eroica delimited by a row of stone blocks on each side of the path carved with the locations where the battle took place.

But the most interesting thing I found about the Mount Grappa is that you could step back into history following the footsteps of those soldiers along trenches, paths all around the mountain and enter the 5km-long, network of tunnels “galleria Vittorio Emanuela III” carved under the mountain summit and built to host 15.000 soldiers, 72 field guns and 70 machine-guns for the counter-attack. The nearby Museum Storico (free), housed in the military station “Milano”, hosts also a limited but fascinating collection of military equipment, maps, documents and photos of the soldiers and the battle of Mount Grappa.

At the end of the day, whatever you have been working it out or just lazed the day away, you may want to try some local delights. Have you wonder what that “Malga” street-signs along the way was all about? A malga is a very typical, old-fashion dairy producing, during the summer months, local cheeses such as the Morlacco, Ricotta or Bastardo. Usually you could just stop by and buy these products, often even savour a hearty local meal such as polenta and “sopressa” (salami), selection of cooked cheeses and game dishes. Some, even offer visitors a rustic accommodation for the night.

Curiosities and tips:

• Monte Grappa stands at an altitude of 1776 mt/5826 ft, is the highest mountain in the Veneto Prealpi;
• there are 4 access roads to Mount Grappa: SP 141, the easiest and most popular, the Strada Generale Giardino, shorter but narrower and steeper accessible at Semonzo, if you are coming from Feltre through the SS47 Valsugana then follow SS148 from Seren del Grappa or for the adventurer one there are less know and tricky roads snaking around the mountain along the “malghe”;
• while on the road watch out for those bikers and big 4×4 standing in the middle of the road!
• If the case you are travelling with a dog, unfortunately your four-legged friend is not welcome up to the summit mausoleum, all sacred area and in the museum;
• on the observatory’s terrace there is a carved bronze map where you could test your sense of direction on the surrounding area;
• if you get on a trek you might get lucky to observe some chamois.

Photo credits by andrelax,  atravelaroundtheworld,  Guido Andolfato

Viale Giuseppe Garibaldi is notable both for what it has and what it doesn’t: it’s the rare spot in Venice with lots of trees and few crowds.

This quiet, shaded promenade, tucked away in the Sestiere Castello section of the city, feels worlds away from the bustle and oppressive summertime heat of Piazza San Marco and its ilk—if you’re feeling a bit overdosed and overwhelmed from the riches of Venice and ready to trade piazzas for parkland, this is the place to come.

Sit on one of the many benches, eat some gelato, read a book, and listen to that rarest (and therefore most enchanting) of sounds in all of Venice: the rustle of leaves in the languid breezes off the lagoon.

Photo credits: Kevin H, milky.way, jovike

Slip out of the tourist craze on the promenade and pop on the Vaporetto over to Dorsoduro where Venetians live and escape the madness of San Marco and the Bridge of Sighs. Wind your way to Enoteca Ai Artisti for the most down to earth deli selection of fresh homemade pastas and wine pairings. The tiny restaurant is all old brick and sits right on a canal with a few small tables of outdoor seating. Locals meet for drinks and are impressed with tourists that make it out to this hidden gem. It will be the most relaxing moment of your Venice bustle.

Photo credits: Shasta McBride, sincretic,  codepurple

The charm of Venice, the vibrant colours of Burano and the peacefulness of the lagoon. Thanks Icam

Yes, I do love THE Lido of Venice and how couldn’t I when there is so much going on? July in Lido is full of events and, besides lying on the beach during the day, you could take advantage of many evenings full of entertainments organized by the local municipality. If you are lucky enough to have your work place here ( …guess who has it?) you could even skip going to Venice, packed with tourists during these muggy days.

This week in Lido of Venice is the feast of the “Madonna di Marina” that as usual takes place every year at the beginning of July. As I’m fond of local history and tradition, I’ve found out that this kind of festival, celebrating the Blessed Virgin associated with the lagoon, is typical not only of Lido but also of the local area which means the same “ritual” is shared among the villages that dot the lagoon (or, at least, some of them…..anyway, I’m sure that it can be found somewhere else along the coast of the Adriatic sea). A popular legend talks about the finding of a log which disappears for three times and that eventually bears the image of the Holy Virgin. A religious procession is organized for this event on Friday the 9^th, with a train of boats full of people who carry candles, to thank the Blessed Virgin for having shown herself to the poor fishermen. As usual with this kind of folkloristic events, mysticism is strictly linked to down-to-earth matters, hence there would be plenty of opportunities to indulge in an excellent meal provided by the food stalls specially set for the event around Malamocco. A great way to sample local delights such spaghetti, fish and mussels dishes some served with the traditional, simple but very tasty, polenta (ground corn boiled in water used as bread) and afterwards admiring the regatta-alike event with the boats bringing the shimmering lights from behind Poveglia to Malamocco (the main hub of the event).

P.s. This morning I’ve rowed from THE Lido to Rialto Bridge……..I was amazed and appalled by the enormous number of motor boats that go along the Grand Canal. We, who are among the few venetians left in our own city and who would like to keep the tradition of rowing ‘alla veneta’ (standing, rowing with a single oar), are almost in danger…