Industry Leader of the Year

Mark Brown, President and CEO of Buffalo Trace Distillery

Mark is a visionary, incredibly driven, a clever businessman, and most importantly, passionate about whiskey. Like many other whiskey CEOs, he wants to make the perfect whiskey. But I have never seen anyone work this hard at it.

Buffalo Trace is conducting thousands of different experiments (including some at their experimental micro-distillery), many of them groundbreaking. More importantly, whiskey enthusiasts get to taste them on an ongoing basis, through the highly anticipated “Buffalo Trace Experimental Collection” releases. Their stable of regular whiskeys is also astonishing. I can think of at least twenty-five different straight bourbon and rye whiskeys produced by Buffalo Trace, from the flagship Buffalo Trace bourbon to the annual Buffalo Trace Antique Collection, which are consistently among the finest American whiskeys being produced.

There are other amazing whiskeys, and distilleries, under the Buffalo Trace umbrella; all of the wonderful Van Winkle whiskeys, for example. In 2009, Buffalo Trace purchased the Tom Moore distillery, where Barton and Ridgemont Reserve 1792 are produced. Later in the year, they also acquired the Old Taylor brand.

Experiments, acquisitions, and exciting new releases of the highest quality and at reasonable prices: what more could a whiskey-lover ask for? Thank you, Mark. Don’t stop! (Like you ever would…)

Tomorrow’s Malt Advocate Whisky Awards announcement: Distillery of the Year.

Pioneer of the Year

Whisky bloggers

Where do you find out about the new Maker’s Mark bourbon months in advance, with pre-release tasting notes from professional whiskey writers? When is Dalmore’s master blender Richard Paterson coming to your town? Where can you still find stocks of the discontinued Laphroaig 15 year old (at the best price)? How would you like to watch a video of the unveiling of the newest vintage of Evan Williams Single Barrel bourbon, months before it is for sale? Where can you meet other whisky enthusiasts like yourself from around the world to have intelligent discussions about whisky?

You’ll find all this and so much more on hundreds of whisky blogs. Sure, the world of blogging is not policed, and it’s not perfect. But whisky books, magazines, and writers aren’t perfect either. If you’re going to read someone’s blog review of a whisky, make sure you know who they are and whether you trust their opinions.

The truth is, whisky blogs are slowly but surely replacing whisky books and magazines with anything that is time-sensitive. That includes information on new releases, reviews of new releases, news on whiskies being discontinued, last minute notifications of whisky tastings, and much more.

In fact, I think whisky blogs will make “whisky review” books practically obsolete. Sure, some people will still buy them as a reference. But let’s be honest. In this day of limited special releases, most of these whiskies are long gone by the time a review of it shows up in a book.

I view my own blog as a “living, breathing” version of Malt Advocate. In my mind, it is a magazine—one that complements the hard-copy version. I think whisky blogging is evolving into its own form of publishing. Its value is only going to increase, but it’s already indispensable if you are a true whisky enthusiast.

(For a list of many great whisky blogs, forums, podcasts, etc., click on the “What does everyone else know?” button on the right column. There are dozens of great sites to inform and entertain you.)

Tomorrow’s Malt Advocate Whisky Awards announcement: Industry Leader of the Year.

I have a bottle, and the booklet that came along with it. If you follow the thread on my first Rollercoaster post, you can find all the details on this bottling. But if you have any other questions, I will try to answer them.

And yes, I hope to open up this baby sometime this evening during the Super Bowl game. If I do, I don’t think it will matter which team wins.

Update: I offer my preliminary thoughts on Rollercoaster in comment #12 below.

Scotch Whisky: Single Malt of the Year

Ardbeg Corryvreckan, 57.1%, $85

Dr. Bill Lumsden is a brilliant innovator, and he’s the creative mind behind the new Glenmorangie and Ardbeg releases. This new Ardbeg Corryvreckan replaces Ardbeg Airigh Nam Beist. (Bill, how about a whisky name that most of us can actually pronounce?)

As you can imagine, the “short list” for this award category was actually quite long, because there are so many great single malts on the market. One of deciding factors for picking “Corry” is that it is part of the new trend in malt whisky (younger whiskies, not chill-filtered, with interesting names instead of age statements). And while there are many whiskies that fit this category (and will be many more over the next several years), Corry is an example of the proper way to do it. It is a relatively young, invigorating, complex, and meticulously cared for whisky.

It’s also powerful, muscular, and well-textured. (I think part of this texturing is that some of the whisky was aged in French oak casks, rather than American or Spanish oak.) Even within the realm of Ardbeg, Corry stands out. The more aggressive notes of coal tar, damp kiln, anise, and smoked seaweed are supported by an array of fruit (black raspberry, black cherry, plum), dark chocolate, espresso, molasses, bacon fat, kalamata olive, and warming cinnamon on the finish. Quite stunning!

Tomorrow’s Malt Advocate Whisky Awards announcement: Pioneer of the Year.

Scotch Whisky: Blend of the Year

Compass Box, “The Peat Monster,” 46%, $60

John Glaser, the creator of Compass Box whiskies, has been one of the most progressive and innovative whisky “blenders” in this generation. Some of his creations consist entirely of grain whiskies. Others are more “traditional” and combine grain whiskies with malt whiskies. But he also masterfully creates blends exclusively from only malt whisky (which has been referred to in the past as “vatted” whisky). The Peat Monster is just that: a blend of malt whiskies.

The formula for this whisky has changed slightly since its inception—and I think for the better. They’ve added some Laphroaig into the mix of Caol Ila and Ardmore. This whisky demonstrates the layered complexity that can be achieved by marrying whisky from different distilleries—and different regions.

I particularly enjoy the rich maltiness and oily texture that provide firm bedding and flavor contrast to the classic Islay notes—tar, boat docks, brine, smoked olive, seaweed, and kiln ash. More subtle cracked peppercorn, mustard seed, and citrus fruit add complexity, leading to a long, warming finish. It’s amazing how a small change in composition can significantly benefit the overall flavor profile of a whisky. If you love smoky whiskies, then you must try The Peat Monster.

Tomorrow’s Malt Advocate Whisky Awards announcement: Scotch Whisky: Single Malt of the Year.

Stay tuned…

The distillery closed its doors for good on February 14th, 1990, and there’s an effort underway to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the closing of the distillery by offering tours (and more) this coming February 14th. The former Master Distiller and plant manager will even be in attendance.

I’ll be on vacation, sadly, and can’t make it. For those of you who live in (or near) Pennsylvania and would like to attend, here are the details that I have on the event as provided to me by Malt Advocate magazine’s Copy Editor (and bourbon enthusiast) Sam Komlenic. Sam will be there representing Malt Advocate.

They’re billing it as a “Toast to Michter’s.”  The current owner is collaborating with Ethan Smith (the driving force behind the event), and they will offer two tours, at 10 and 1.  Former plant manager and master distiller Dick Stoll will be in attendance, along with his wife Elaine, who was a tour guide.  Dick is the man who locked the doors at the close of business on February 14, 1990.  They are anticipating other former employees and perhaps some industry notables.

 The accessible buildings have no heat, and it remains an abandoned site, so appropriate dress for winter industrial archaeology is recommended.  They are encouraging folks to bring along any Michter’s memorabilia to display.  More here:

 http://www.bourbonenthusiast.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=7137&p=30828#p30828

The distillery proper is amazingly intact.  Since it was abandoned by an amorphous “holding company,” the principals of which were never identified, it was never scrapped out.  Ethan has posted some photos here:

 http://forgottenpa.blogspot.com/2009/11/inside-michters.html

For more information, contact Ethan directly (ethangsmith@dejazzd.com).

Irish Whiskey of the Year

Jameson Rarest Vintage Reserve (2009 release), 46%, $250

The Midleton Distillery, where Jameson is made, has proven that it can make wonderful whiskeys of great diversity. Jameson Gold, Jameson 18 year old, Redbreast 12 year old, and Power’s 12 year old are just a few of them.

Late in 2007, the distillery introduced Jameson Rarest Vintage Reserve (which didn’t get into circulation in the U.S. until 2008). The combination of aging some whiskey in port casks, including some older whiskeys (over 20 years old), and bottling—without chill-filtering—at 46% ABV has helped make Jameson Rarest Vintage Reserve rich, deep, and complex.

A 2009 vintage was released toward the end of the 2009 calendar year. (The 2008 vintage was never brought into the U.S.) How does it stack up to the 2007 release, our award winner last year? I like the 2009 vintage even better! If anything, it’s richer and lusher than the 2007 vintage.

It’s rich, silky, and oily in texture. You’ll discover extremely well-integrated flavors loaded with fruits, ripe berries, caramelized banana, nougat, date nut bread, glazed tangerine, and maple syrup, peppered with warming cinnamon, vanilla icing, and nutmeg. A firm, dry, resinous finish balances the sweetness. I love the pot still character and the lushness that some of the port-wood aging has imparted. This is another classic Jameson Rarest Vintage Reserve.

Tomorrow’s Malt Advocate Whisky Award annoucement: Scotch Whisky Blend of the Year.

Press Release:

BERRY BROS. & RUDD TO SELL CUTTY
SARK BRAND TO EDRINGTON

Wednesday, 3rd February, 2010
for immediate release

Britain’s leading fine wines and spirits merchant, Berry Bros. & Rudd (BB&R), today announced that it has finalised an agreement under which it will sell the Cutty Sark blended Scotch whisky brand to The Edrington Group, makers of The Famous Grouse and The Macallan.

Under the deal, BB&R will acquire The Glenrothes single malt brand from Edrington, which has signed long-term supply agreements to provide whisky fillings and stocks to BB&R. Edrington will retain ownership of The Glenrothes distillery.

The transaction will also involve Edrington acquiring all distribution contracts on Cutty Sark in force at the time of completion.  The Edrington sales-and-distribution alliance (Maxxium) will continue to distribute The Glenrothes in key international markets and is also expected to provide a distribution option for other brands within BB&R’s super-premium spirits portfolio.

The agreement is due to be concluded by April 2010. The total consideration has not been revealed.

Hugh Sturges, managing director, BB&R, said the sale of the Cutty Sark brand and purchase of The Glenrothes was in line with the company’s long term vision of concentrating investment resources behind developing a world leading position as a supplier of fine wines and super-premium spirits. “The strategy that supports this vision is already reaping dividends, particularly within emerging markets,” said Mr. Sturges. “We are convinced that future growth will come from us focusing even more on our strengths. That means targeting our sales and marketing efforts on those brands and sectors where we can compete most effectively and develop market positions that will drive real value long term. We therefore believe this agreement is in the best interests of the brands concerned and both companies.”

Ian Curle, chief executive of Edrington, said the deal would enhance the group’s position as Scotland’s leading international premium spirits company and strengthen its position in the Scotch whisky category with an unrivalled and well-established portfolio of leading blended and single malt brands.

“In an ever-consolidating drinks industry, this agreement offers significant operational synergies and market advantages. It improves our distribution in key territories and strengthens our position as an independent premium brand company,” said Mr. Curle.

Edrington has enjoyed a long-term partnership with BB&R under which it has supplied blended whisky for the Cutty Sark brand for over 70 years and is currently responsible for all aspects of producing Cutty Sark. Today, Cutty Sark is a top three whisky brand in Mediterranean countries such as Greece, Spain and Portugal, where it is popular in the fast-moving on-trade. The brand continues to have a strong presence in America and is increasing its footprint in Asia and developing markets.

In Spain, Cutty Sark’s largest market, the distribution agreement with Importaciones Varma will come to an end prior to the completion of the sale of Cutty Sark. The brand will then be handled by Maxxium Espana, a 50/50 joint venture between Edrington and Beam Global Spirits & Wine. In Greece, the distribution of Cutty Sark will remain with WS Karoulias, which will continue as a wholly-owned subsidiary of BB&R.

BB&R said the acquisition of The Glenrothes reflected its ambition to grow its super-premium business as the brand was one of the world’s fastest growing single malts.

The long standing relationship between BB&R and Edrington will continue under the new arrangement. Both companies will continue to work hand-in-hand on projects of mutual interest that aim to maximise shareholder value and support the long-term development of their brands.

Canadian Whisky of the Year

Crown Royal Cask No. 16, 40%, $100

This great whisky was also our award winner two years ago (only to be temporarily eclipsed by the limited-edition Canadian Club 150^th Anniversary 30 year old bottling last year), and our opinion of it remains the same.

The well-established Crown Royal “Reserve” has long been one of the finest Canadian whiskies. It’s difficult to imagine one as good, let alone better. But over the past several years, the distillery started releasing limited edition, special release. The first one, Crown Royal XR, missed the mark. It showed its age on the finish, with too much oak influence. But its successor, Crown Royal Cask No. 16, is a silky-smooth ride the whole way.

Crown Royal has always been a stylish line of whiskies. This bottling adds a new dimension in flavor and texture with its cognac cask finishing. It’s a velvety, polished whisky with notes of creamy vanilla, butterscotch, nougat, dried fruit, and gentle spice, all well-defined and nicely balanced. Gently sweet, fruity finish. A very classy Canadian.

(Author’s note: the owners of Canadian Club asked to be excluded from consideration, because the 150th Anniversary was a one-time release and is no longer being produced.)

Tomorrow’s Malt Advocate Whisky Awards announcement: Irish Whiskey of the Year.

Press Release:

The One and Only… Ugly Betty

“An oversized, upside-down dustbin made of copper”

Tom Morton described it in his excellent Spirit of Adventure.

Bruichladdich is pleased to announce the installation of an unusual fifth still during recent still house renovations.

A Lomand still, a defunct experimental cross between a Coffey and a pot still, was designed with a thick column-like neck with removable sections inserted.

The aim was to create more character and variety of styles of spirit by imitating the effect that different lengths of still ?neck? would have.

The versatile still had plates, like Roman blinds, which could be ?opened? and varying the angle of the lyne arm for lighter or heavier spirit.

The first Lomand, a spirit still, was installed in 1956 at Inverleven, part of the ginormous Dumbarton grain distillery complex, on the banks of the Clyde .

Inverleven was closed in 1991 and raised to the ground in 2004. But not before we nipped in and removed, among other things, the Lomand.

So, fittingly, the first shall be last: the original, the only authentic Lomand in existence, lives to fight another day.

True to its founding principal, it is being fitted with Jim?s newly designed neck section, the “Silver Gattling”. It may be the only one of its type left, but she?s no oil painting. Welcome to Ugly Betty.

American Whiskey of the Year

Parker’s Heritage Collection “Golden Anniversary,” 50%, $150

Fifty years is a long time to be working in one industry, and master distiller Parker Beam has done just that. This bottling celebrates Parker’s 50 years of service by mingling whiskey from each of the past five decades. (Although, I don’t think there’s a whole lot from the 1960s in there.)

This is a fabulous whiskey; seamless, incredibly complex, with an impeccable marriage of youth and maturity. It’s also very even-keeled throughout—quite different than last year’s equally impressive Parker’s Heritage Collection bottling, a 27 year old, whose personality was more like an exhilarating old wooden rollercoaster ride (and also brandished more oak).

The Golden Anniversary bottling shows candied citrus, nectarine, blueberry, and sultana anchored by a nougat center and laced with honeyed vanilla and orange creamsicle. There’s a dusting of cocoa powder, brittle mint, and cinnamon, too! Tobacco leaves, polished leather, and teasing bourbon barrel char round out the palate, emerging more prominently toward its warming finish. This is a classic bourbon that’s very complex, yet very drinkable.

Tomorrow’s Malt Advocate Whisky Awards announcement: Canadian Whisky of the Year.

Artisan Whiskey of the Year (operating 10 years or less)

Stranahan’s Colorado Whiskey (Batch #49), 47%, $55

In the U.S. alone, there are dozens of small artisan distillers now making whiskey. Many of these whiskeys are already on the market and are only a few years old—at most! Some show great potential, while others…well, let’s just say you should definitely “try before you buy.”

A few of these distillers are now making whiskeys that rival well-established scotch or bourbon distillers in quality. A great example of this is Stranahan’s Colorado Whiskey. The distillery began operations in 2004, using beer (wash) from the adjacent Flying Dog brewery, and then distilling it into whiskey. Batch #49, the whiskey we are honoring with this award, was made this way. (In 2009, the distillery moved to a larger facility, and they now make their own wash.)

Stranahan’s whiskey is sort of a hybrid. Being an all-malt product, it does resemble a single malt scotch in many ways, with a unique flair and a hint of bourbon character. (It is a “straight whiskey” aged in new charred oak barrels, similar to bourbon.) It shows nice maturity, considering it contains whiskey as young as two years old, but not older than five. It’s smooth, too, with layered sweetness (honeyed caramel, English toffee, maple syrup), tangerine, roasted nuts, and peppered with spice (warming cinnamon, glazed ginger). A good grip of tobacco and polished leather on the finish balances the sweetness that comes earlier. This is an example of the right way to do artisan distilling.

Bonus blog comment: The distillation date on the bottle states 10/15/07, which puts it at a little over two years old. I’m told there is older whiskey in here too up to five years of age, but it shows very nice maturity for its age range. My only issue is the price. I really like the packaging, but I would bet that many out there would prefer to see simpler packaging, and a lower price. [Although, judging by some of the comments I'm reading below, it looks like many places are selling this whiskey in the $40s, which is good news.]

Tomorrow’s Malt Advocate Whisky Award announcement: American Whiskey of the Year.

Best Buy Whisk(e)y of the Year:

The MacPhail’s Collection (Tamdhu 8 year old, Glenrothes 8 year old, Highland Park 8 year old), 43%, $30-$35

If you’re a single malt scotch drinker, you know that prices have really shot up over the past decade—much more than inflation. Now it’s becoming a challenge to find a good tasting, mature single malt for around $30.

Given the current economy, along with the rise in whisky prices, consumers are looking for good values. You’re going to be seeing more companies putting young whiskies on the market (without age statements) at attractive prices. But be careful: some of these whiskies will taste too youthful and immature.

The MacPhail’s Collection is a range of single malt whiskies which have been distilled at selected distilleries and bottled by Gordon & MacPhail. As part of this collection, we now have three very nice new releases for around $30, all eight years old and nicely matured. All are aged in refill sherry casks, for just the right amount of sherry influence without dominating the flavor profile.

These aren’t just nice-tasting whiskies. I also like the variety in the flavor profiles—the fresh, appetizing Highland Park; the mouth-coating, stylish Glenrothes; and the nutty, toffee-enriched Tamdhu. And you can have all three for about $100.

A fourth MacPhail’s Collection expression, a Bunnahabhain , also 8 years old and from a refill sherry cask, is about to be released. More whiskies like this, please!

Tomorrow’s Malt Advocate Whisky Award announcement: Artisan Whiskey of the Year.

The only requirement: to be eligible for this year’s awards, products must have been sold in the U.S. during the 2009 calendar year. Please keep this in mind when reading about our award winners.

As I mentioned in a previous post, for the first time ever, we will be announcing our awards here, starting tomorrow, before they are eventually published in Malt Advocate magazine. You can read about the schedule of the awards, and our reasoning for publishing the awards via this blog, here. Each day, from February 1st-11th, I will post up the award at 0700 Eastern Time.

I would like to ask that, if you have any general questions about the contest itself, you use this posting to ask your questions. When I post up each award category and winner, let’s focus our comments on the actual whisky, distillery, etc., receiving the award.  Thanks.