Most of the time when you read in general media how Irish whiskey is defined, they will say that Irish whiskey is different from Scotch whisky in that it’s not smoky like Scotch whisky. And, they’ll say that Irish whiskey is distilled three times, while Scotch whisky is only distilled twice. (Many times they will continue this train of thought with the comment that, because Irish whiskey is distilled three times, it’s smoother than Scotch whisky.)

If I had a dollar for every time I read these generalizations, I could afford to buy a couple bottles of Redbreast 12 year old.

But, as most of you know, these generalizations are not completely accurate. Most Scotch whisky is not smoky, and there are triple distilled whiskies in Scotland (e.g., Auchentoshan).

In Ireland, whiskeys distilled at Cooley are only distilled twice, and they make smoky whiskeys there too (Connemara). In fact, I have heard of the Cooley distillery referred to as “a Scotch distillery that just happens to be located in Ireland.”

Plus, I have enjoyed smooth Scotch whiskies, and tasted some harsh Irish whiskeys over the years. So, the whole “Irish whiskey is smoother than Scotch whisky because it’s distilled three times” statement isn’t exactly accurate either.

Some enthusiasts more “in the know” will point out that what differentiates Irish whiskey from Scotch whisky is that Irish whiskey is made (at least in part) with “pot still” whiskey (i.e. from a mash containing both malted AND unmalted barley), rather than Scotch whisky which uses a 100% malted barley mash bill in its pot stills. Some Irish whiskeys (e.g., Redbreast, Green Spot) are 100% pure pot still whiskeys.

It’s true, if you look at the Irish whiskeys made at the Midleton distillery in County Cork (Jameson, Powers, Paddy, Tullamore Dew, Redbreast, Green Spot, etc.), there is a pot still component in these whiskeys. But, you won’t find “pot still” whiskey in Bushmills or the whiskeys produced at Cooley.

So, what is Irish whiskey, really?

Or perhaps you’re drinking some other type of whiskey, or just sticking with Guinness?

Do tell! (But please…no green beer.)

Here’s the press release I was also sent, which was enbargoed until today. It explains more about the whisky and the Generations concept.

The wait is over as the world’s oldest whisky sees the light of day

The world’s oldest bottled single malt whisky has been revealed today (Thursday 11 March) by whisky specialist Gordon & MacPhail.

Released under Gordon & MacPhail’s ‘Generations’ brand, Mortlach 70 Years Old Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky was finally revealed – and tasted – by special guests at a launch in the atmospheric setting of Edinburgh Castle’s Queen Anne Room. One precious bottle of Mortlach was piped into the Castle, escorted by guards from The Highlanders (4th Battalion).

The new-make spirit from Speyside’s Mortlach Distillery was filled into the cask on 15th October 1938 by John Urquhart, the grandfather of Gordon & MacPhail Joint Managing Directors, David and Michael Urquhart. Exactly 70 years later, the decision was made to carefully empty the cask and bottle the contents.

Founded in 1895, Gordon & MacPhail is known the world over as the custodian of some of the oldest and rarest single malts available. Members of the third and fourth generations of the Urquhart family now own and manage the business.

David and Michael Urquhart, Joint Managing Directors of Gordon & MacPhail said:

“This is a very special day for us, one we’ve literally been anticipating for generations. Our family has been in the whisky business for a long time, with each generation building and handing on a lifetime’s expertise to the next.

“We believe Mortlach 70 Years Old is a malt without comparison. If the reaction of those lucky enough to enjoy a dram today is anything to go by, whisky fans and people wishing to own a unique piece of Scotland’s liquid history will be very excited about it.”

Charles MacLean, a well-known whisky writer and connoisseur, who was allowed a sneak preview of the single malt, described it as “a delicate, fresh, vital, fruity whisky, with unusual attributes of waxiness and smokiness.”

Each bottle will be beautifully presented in a tear-shaped hand-blown crystal decanter with an elegant silver stopper. The decanter nestles in a stylish silver base and is framed in a handmade Brazilian Rosewood box, created using wood from Forest Stewardship Council (FS C) Certified sources.

Mortlach 70 Years Old was matured in a Spanish oak, ex-bodega sherry hogshead cask, which yielded 54 full-size and 162 small decanters bottled at cask strength (46.1% ABV). The recommended retail price in the UK is £10,000 per 70cl decanter and £2,500 for the 20cl version.

This is the first in a series of extremely rare malt whiskies to be released by Gordon & MacPhail under its ‘Generations’ brand.

For more information visit www.gordonandmacphail.com

I received a press release (below) and review sample yesterday. I tasted it informally last night and really enjoyed it. My formal review will follow soon.

Four Roses Celebrates Distillery’s 100 Years
with Limited Edition Bourbon

17-year-old single barrel bourbon to be released in limited quantity

LAWRENCEBURG, Ky. (March 8, 2010) – Four Roses Bourbon is adding another barrel strength single barrel Bourbon to its collection of limited edition releases – this time, commemorating the 100-year anniversary of the opening of the distillery building in Lawrenceburg, Ky.
 
The Four Roses 100th Anniversary Limited Edition Single Barrel Bourbon will be released in early April just in time for the Kentucky Derby.  Bottled at barrel strength and non-chill filtered, the distillery will produce only about 2,300 bottles to be distributed nationally in markets where Four Roses is currently available.

Chosen from one of Four Roses’ 10 Bourbon recipes, the rare, 17-year-old offering boasts an aroma of brisk cloves and candied fruits while hints of peach and cherry meld seamlessly with creamy, spiced vanilla and oak.

“Every year our goal is to select the most special recipe aged to perfection,” said Jim Rutledge, Master Distiller of Four Roses Bourbon.  “A milestone anniversary deserves a milestone bourbon and we believe this release is one-of-a-kind.”

The Four Roses Distillery, on the banks of the scenic Salt River, is a special find on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail route.  The facility was built in 1910 and features a unique Spanish Mission-Style architecture rarely seen in Kentucky.  The distillery is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

A gold etching of the distillery building is featured on the back of the limited edition bottle, adding to its appeal for the Bourbon enthusiast or collector.

Yesterday I asked you for topics you would like to discuss here on WDJK. There are already some great suggestions. Today’s post is from one of those suggestions. (Thank you, Red.)

So, what would be YOUR bottomless bottle of whisky?

84 Stranahan’s (Batch #49), 47%, $55
It shows nice maturity, considering it contains whisky as young as two years old. Smooth, too, with layered sweetness (honeyed caramel, English toffee, maple syrup), tangerine, roasted nuts, and peppered with spice (warming cinnamon, glazed ginger). Good grip of tobacco and polished leather on the finish balances the sweetness that comes earlier. An example of the right way to do artisan distilling.

I try my best to come up with interesting discussion topics, but I’m sure you have some great ideas too. Let us know what they are. The ones I like I’ll use for future postings.

Thanks!

I also wanted to note that I lined this whisky up next to the new Ardbeg Rollercoater (a marriage of 3-10 year old whiskies) and feel that Kilchoman tastes as mature as Rollercoaster. This is one of the most impressive new distilleries–anywhere! Let’s hope they can keep this up in the future.

Kilchoman, Autumn 2009 release, 46%, £47
This (rather young) Islay distillery’s second release. Like the original release, it’s aged for about three years and then finished in sherry casks–this time for 2.5 months, which is less than the first release. It’s in the same ballpark as the first release.

Once again, I am very impressed. It’s very mature for its age, with good viscosity, showing smoldering peat, coal tar, black licorice stick, burnt dark berried fruit, thick cut marmalade, shoo-fly pie (think molasses), toffee apple, cocoa powder, cinnamon and a suggestion of wet sheep. Long, peat smoke finish.

Advanced Malt Advocate  magazine rating: 90

I told you I would offer my decision today. (Sorry for the delay–an unexpected doctor visit pushed my schedule back.)

Here’s what I’m going to do. I’ll review the whiskies–it might only be informally–sometime soon and let you know my thoughts. Many of you are curious about the whiskies (even though you may never taste them), and so am I. I’ll also compare them to existing standard bottlings if I have them handy (something many of you asked about). BUT, I won’t review them until I get some of the more affordable, accessible whiskies reviewed first. That’s my first priority.

Now that Kilchoman has (surprisingly good for its age) legal whisky to sell, the need to expand their operations.

I’m not sure who will replace John at Bunnahabhain.

The press release:

We are delighted to announce that John MacLellan will be joining us as General Manager.  John has worked in the whisky industry for over 20 years and for the past 12 years he has been the manager at Bunnahabhain, so brings with him lots of experience.  He starts on the 3rd of May and will be responsible for the day to day running of the business, freeing Anthony up to concentrate on developing sales around the world.

Focus on “The MacPhail’s Collection”

Three whiskies. All 8 years old, and nicely matured. And all aged in refill sherry casks, for just the right amount of sherry influence without dominating the flavor profile. These days, it’s hard to find a nice single malt scotch for around $30-35. Here are three.

83 The MacPhail’s Collection (distilled at Highland Park), 43%, $30
The lightest and most appetizing of the three. Look for honeyed vanilla, mango, nectarine, pineapple in syrup, floral notes, and delicate brine. A fresh, easy drinking, “anytime” dram.

83 The MacPhail’s Collection (distilled at Glenrothes), 43%, $30
A pleasing, younger expression of this classic Speysider. Noticeably mouth-coating, with a malty foundation accentuated by toffee apple, chocolate covered nuts, and fresh grass. Very stylish.

82 The MacPhail’s Collection (distilled at Tamdhu), 43%, $30
This distillery is (sadly) mothballed at the moment, and not always easy to find. The most aggressive of the three. Notes of burnt toffee, roasted nuts, ripe barley, citrus, vanilla, honey, and toasted marshmallow.

As I mentioned in the awards write-up, a Bunnahabhain 8 year old will also be added to the MacPhail’s Collection shortly.

Here is the landing page of a website that will expand into revealing a project that Mark is hopeful “will be the largest experimental project of its kind ever undertaken.”

That’s saying a lot. But, if anyone call pull it off, Buffalo Trace can. Stay tuned!

I tasted the whisky first on Super Bowl Sunday, and offered my preliminary thoughts here (@12). My opinion has not changed. My formal review follows.

89 Ardbeg “Rollercoaster,” 57.3%, $ 85.00
Deep gold color. Very bold aroma of toffee, dark chocolate, diesel fuel-soaked soil, smoldering campfire, coal tar, clove, leather, fig, and dark berried fruit. More of the same on the palate, with seaweed, smoked haddock and cough drops emerging towards the finish. This whisky is very dynamic and exciting to drink. My only criticism: it comes across a little green on the finish, which keeps me from scoring it in the 90s. Still, it’s pretty impressive considering how young some of the whiskies are. And if you like your Islay whiskies young and brooding, then this one’s for you.

If you recall, when I first announced The Manager’s Choice here last year in September, it created quite a commotion. My blog posting alone received 178 comments, most of them negative.

I did eventually review these whiskies here last October.

So, my question for you is: do you want me to formally review these whiskies, or would you prefer I devote my efforts to reviewing whiskies with greater distribution?

You have been very vocal about my reviewing whiskies you can’t afford or don’t have access to. These whiskies will not be sold in the U.S. and are somewhat expensive for their age. (Although “expensive” these days is a moving target.) 

I don’t have enough time to review all the review samples I receive, so there is a definite trade-off here. Either way, I will still taste these whiskies informally and keep them on hand for my own knowledge and future reference. Besides, I am curious. But, since I feel my primary purpose here is to post up information that you want (rather than flexing my ego muscle), I’ll let you decide.

Do you want me to review these whiskies? Yes or no?

I will take votes until the end of the weekend, tally them up, and let you know on Monday morning.

GlenDronach, 1989 vintage, 19 year old, 58.7%, $135
The first single cask release of GlenDronach for the U.S. by the new owners, and a nice one at that. Silky in texture, polished, and clean on the palate, with light toffee, treacle, cherry bonbon, orange-soaked date nut cake, and chocolate-covered raisin. Never cloying, like some heavily sherried whiskies can be. Silky, soothing finish. Surprisingly soft and youthful for its age.  (A Park Avenue Liquor exclusive.)

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 88

GlenDronach, 12 year old, 46%, $59
Nicely sherried. Rich, with maple syrup, honey drenched citrus, sultana, and a good dried oak spice finish for balance. Well done for a 12 year old, and definite competition for Macallan of the same age.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 86

GlenDronach, 15 year old, 46%, $95
Deeper, richer, more viscous, and more intriguing than 12 year old (and not as sappy as the 18 year old). Complex and intriguing, with raisin, orange marmalade, grape skin, sugar plum, cinnamon bun, raspberry preserve, mixed nuts, and coal ash.  Nice tannic grip on finish. The best of the bunch, and very impressive!

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 93

GlenDronach, 18 year old, 46%, $136
There’s plenty going on here, but it’s not as vibrant as the other GlenDronachs. Lots of sherry influence, viscous, and a bit sappy, with Curacao liqueur, honey drenched fruit, raspberry tart, black cherry, and ripe malt, leading to a grape stem finish. An enjoyable whisky, but my least favorite of the bunch.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 84