Where Contractors Talk About Licensing

The Grassroots Newsletter - August 2008

2008-08-18T17:12:00.003-06:00

This month's quote:

"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal"

- Henry Ford

This month's topic:

Construction Cost Estimating: Common Sources of Errors

Few cost estimates for bidding on construction projects are made that do not contain errors of one kind or another. Too many errors on the plus side can be a major reason for a bid not being competitive. Too may errors on the minus side can cause the contractor to lose money if awarded the contract.

Below are some of the most common sources of errors in construction cost estimating:

1. Errors in Arithmetic

Estimates made on construction projects are arithmetical calculations of quantities and cost of materials and labor costs to install materials or perform various operations. In order to avoid errors in arithmetic, the estimator should use an electronic calculator with a recording tape, have the calculations checked by another person, and attach the tape to the estimate sheet for backup.

2. Taking Wrong Measurements from Plans and Specifications

Errors in measurements and dimensions taken from plans, drawings, and specifications result in corresponding mistakes in the cost of construction items based on those measurements.

3. Using the Wrong Wage Rates for Labor

Hourly labor wages for construction workers vary countrywide. You should consistently verify current wage rates and fringe benefits for the building trades involved through local union offices, other contractors, supply yards, and other reliable sources. Overtime rates are generally one and one-half to two times regular rates depending on labor agreements and union rules.

4. Insufficient or Excessive Allowances for Labor

A frequent cause of error in estimating is allowing too much or too little for labor to do the job.

5. Materials and Supplies Improperly Priced

Always be sure that building materials and supplies are correctly described as to kind, quality, size, and dimensions. Also confirm that they are priced competitively.

6. Using Incorrect Units of Measure

Using a wrong unit of measure can result in substantial cost increases or decreases. For example, be careful not to record lineal feet for lineal yards, square feet for square yards or cubic feet for cubic yards, and so forth.

7. Including Poorly Maintained Machinery or Equipment

Machinery or equipment to be used in construction, and included in the estimate or bid, must always be checked for efficient serviceability. Preparing an estimate on a construction project and contemplating the use of poorly maintained machinery or equipment is unwise. Breakdown, repairs, and idle time can be costly, delay completion of the project and invite penalties.

8. Failure to Visit the Project Site

This source of error might well be number one on the list because of its importance in the early stages of cost estimating. Visiting the proposed site of the project enables the cost estimator to inspect topography, check the soil by boring if necessary, determine if protection of adjacent properties will be needed, and check distances to railroad sidings, supply centers, and the proximity to sources of labor. If existing structures have to be demolished or removed from the premises, the estimator is able to properly determine the probable cost.

9. Overlooking or Miscalculating Haulage Costs

The cost of hauling materials, supplies, machinery, and equipment to a project can be a very expensive item in an estimate. Access to the job site may be difficult because of poor roads or no roads, heavy traffic to and from supply sources, or the requirement to obtain permits, and so forth.

10. Failure to Review Building Codes, Permits, and Inspections

Cost estimates and bids on construction projects are subject to local, state and federal building codes, permits, and inspections.

11. Failure to Consider Quality of Workmanship Required

A contractor who is accustomed to working on projects that require high quality workmanship may not be set up to bid or estimate projects of mediocre, low grade workmanship. Conversely, a contractor who usually works on cheap structures is frequently at a disadvantage when it comes to bidding on the construction of upscale residences or commercial buildings where only the finest quality of workmanship is acceptable. Failure to give proper consideration to the quality of workmanship a project warrants can lead to overestimating or underestimating.

12. Omitting Items the Cost Estimator Considers to be Minor

Sometimes items such as scaffolding, ramps, and guardrails, are left out of an estimate on the assumption that their cost is relatively minor and can be absorbed in the overall bid. On small projects a contractor may gamble on his workers handling such items routinely. This can be a costly error.

13. Duplicating the Work of Subcontractors

Subcontractors often prepare their cost estimates from the plans and specifications without the guidance or supervision of the general contractor. They take off details and include all of the items they assume to fall within their particular trade. As a result there frequently is overlapping with the work of the general contractor or other subcontractors.

14. Failure to Review the Bids of Subcontractors

The owner looks to the general contractor for the completion of the work in compliance with the plans and specifications. The owner does not look to the subcontractors. It is very important that the estimates of subcontractors are carefully reviewed to be sure they comply with the plans and specifications.

15. Overlooking Items

The causes of overlooking items when preparing an estimate or bid are many. The following are typical:

Lack of attention to details.
In too great of a hurry to complete the cost estimate.
Too heavy a workload.
Basic lack of experience.
Delegating part of the estimate to others.
Failure to use a reliable checklist.

An important safeguard against overlooking items is to have another person independently review and double check the cost estimate.

16. Taking Shortcuts in Cost Estimating

Taking shortcuts when making an estimate can be risky. Often there is a temptation to take shortcuts when under pressure because of time-limit in which to complete the cost estimate or because of a heavy backlog of work. Shortcuts take the form of guesstimating, using square feet or cubic foot costs in place of details, and using lump sum figures picked out of the air, all of which have inherent risks.
17. Not Allowing for Realistic Contingencies

Some construction projects may have inherent and unusual problems that should be recognized when the cost estimate is being prepared. Failure to make the allowances or contingencies may result in not getting the contract or losing money if awarded the contract. These contingencies include severe winter weather conditions, or extremely hot and humid climates. The project may be located in an area of the country subject to heavy rainfall. Justifications for a realistic contingency include anticipated labor troubles, material shortages, or political problems.

18. Including Contingency Items Without Reason

A opposed to making allowances for realistic contingencies, it is poor policy to make flat allowances for contingencies without good reasons, particularly when competition is strong.

19. Inadequate or Excessive Overhead Charges

There are two types of overhead:

Specific overhead charged to a specific job or operation.
General overhead not chargeable to specific jobs or operations.

The cost estimator should distinguish between two types in allocating overhead. Assuming an overhead charge of 10, 15, or 20 percent without analysis may be too high or too low. There are overhead charges that range as high as 30 percent or more of the job cost. But these are usually confined to subcontractors specializing in such things as refrigeration, heating and air conditioning, power installation, and so forth. Whether a general contractor is justified in charging overhead on a subcontractor's cost estimate is a matter of judgement.

Source: The Contractors Field Guide, Paul I. Thomas

Please visit our web site at www.contractorexam.com for more information on your state's Business Management licensing requirements.

Watering Tips for the Home and Garden

2008-03-30T23:17:00.002-06:00

Shelter from the winds

In the southwest, dry and windy days can be all too common. To conserve water, one suggestion I’ve found to be useful is to construct, or grow a windbreak. These may be as simple as rows of old tires (ugly too). After the growing season the tires can be stored out of sight. A row of fruit bearing bushes such as raspberries can serve double duty. Straw bales will also work well. Another useful article is to use old boards supported with whatever stakes you may find around the house.

Shade

Take advantage of any shade you may have in your yard to help establish new plants. If you have no trees consider erecting a lathe or bamboo awning for shade.

Trees can be trained or pruned to be living shade barriers. Manchurian bush apricot is a good choice because it can stand a lot of pruning. They can be encouraged to spread in a desired direction.

Strong and vigorous trees are best for shade barriers. Fruit trees can also be a good choice.

Containerized Gardening

Terracotta or clay pots are inefficient when it comes to retaining water in dry climates. Wind with low humidity evaporates the water out through the sides of the pots as well as the exposed soil. Plastic and metal tubs work better at retaining water. Another good choice for container gardening is the half whiskey barrel.

Mowing

Mowing your lawn can save water if it is done properly. For water conservation, mowing less frequently and higher will conserve water. A short cut will scalp the blades of grass subjecting them to heat and sun damage. A higher will provide a bit of shade for the grass reducing the water requirement.

Mulching

Dig a hole around your tree or favorite plant and fill with porous material such as newspapers, junk mail. This will create a sponge to hold and retain water. Cover the hole and “sponge” and voila, you have a water catchment that your plants will love and you’ll be saving water.

Molasses

Molasses is a little known secret for encouraging plant growth as well as a water saver. There is a double benefit in using 1-2 tablespoons in a 2-gallon watering can. The sugar content (carbon) will retain water so that the plant has it available for use. The second benefit is derived from the minerals in molasses.

The Grassroots Newsletter - Mar 2008

2008-03-22T12:38:00.000-06:00

This month's quote:

"Creativity requires the courage to let go of certainties"

**BREAKING NEWS AND UPDATES**

Florida Contractors - We have recently added several new trades to the list of products we offer. The updated Business and Financial Management examination will be used starting in April 2008. The new examination contains some additional content areas. The applicable references have been added to the reference list to support this new content (Chapter 455 F.S., OSHA Parts 1903, 1904, and 1910). The new examination will contain 120 scored items plus 10 pilot items. Additional exam application deadline info at this link:

http://www.myfloridalicense.com/dbpr/servop/testing/documents/exam_dead.pdf

Utah Contractors - Recently, this state changed their exam administration provider which means that all of the reference document information on our web pages must be re-verified. Please check the new administrator's (PSI) web site for updated information before you begin studying for your exam. Their web address is:

http://www.psiexams.com/

Please note: this site can only be accessed using Internet Explorer. Other browser programs give error messages.

The Five Ingredients for a successful Contracting Business

Ingredient #1

Have a plan. There's a reason you've heard that line repeatedly - because IT WORKS. There's an old expression that goes like this ... "If you don't know where you're going, ANY road will take you there." Doesn't that make sense? It makes a LOT of sense not to try building a house before you lay the foundation.... so why do so many people start a business without a plan for it?

Even if you've already started your business without a plan, it's never too late to begin one. Sit down with a pad of paper and a pen, and start by writing out the months of the year - beginning with next month. For each month, decide where you'd like to be by the end of it - and write it down.

Ingredient #2

Set deadlines to accomplish your plans. Assign 'completion by' dates to each of the different goals you set, and try not to let anything interfere in the completion of these goals! In addition, if anyone else is going to be involved, make sure you decide in advance who will take responsibility for each part of the project.

Ingredient #3

Pay attention to how you spend your time, and be prepared to account for it - not to anyone else, only to yourself. The reason for this is simple - if you have a plan, and you've set goals to reach in order to fulfill that plan, you need to know if your time is being spent accordingly. If you are spending too much time on tasks that take you away from your plan, you may need to re-think what you're doing.

Ingredient #4

Have fun -- enjoy doing whatever you are doing in your business. Of course, in order to be working for the fun of working, you need to be doing something that is fun to do!

If this isn't true for you, maybe you need to start back at #1 on this list. When you're dedicated to building a business in something that you love to do, even the long hours and occasional setbacks will be like 'water off a duck's back' if you're having fun!

Ingredient #5

Keep a positive attitude, even in the face of difficulties. The road to success is littered with obstacles and errors, and it is very likely that you will make some mistakes or run into unforeseen troubles. How well you 'keep your head up' is bound to determine how clearly you'll SEE ahead of you! And one more thing about attitude -- don't start tomorrow, or next week, or next month. If you're feeling depressed about your business, or discouraged, what can you do to change your attitude RIGHT NOW?

Our web site: www.contractorexam.com

Green Building Glossary - Part 1

2008-02-07T12:47:00.003-07:00

There is a lot of buzz these days regarding green building. Many consumers of the building industry, commercial and residential, would do well to understand some of the basic terms used by those policy makers who are implementing the movement.

We have, therefore, taken on the task of creating a glossary of terms, by no means exhaustive, for our readers to upgrade your level of understanding of the green building movement.

Included in this glossary are terms we feel are important to the green movement.

Building Density: the total floor area, in square feet, of a proposed building, or an existing building, divided by the total area, in square feet, of the building site.

Community: an interactive group of people living in a specified area.

Development Footprint: http://www.scribd.com/doc/13031/Sustainable-Development the area of a proposed building site which will be impacted by the development activity.

Ecosystem: the basic unit of nature that includes a community of living and their non-living environment linked by biological, chemical and physical interaction.

Endangered species: plants and animals in danger of becoming extinct because of human or natural factors.

Erosion: a combination of processes in which materials of the earth’s surface are loosened, dissolved or worn away, and transported from one place to another by natural means such as water, wind and/or gravity.

Greenfields: proposed building sites that have not been previously built upon. These sites typically could support open spaces, wildlife and agriculture. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greenfield_land

Pedestrian Access: refers to the degree with which pedestrians have walk-up access to a proposed building site without such barriers as walls, freeways, or natural barriers.

Previously Developed Sites: proposed building sites containing buildings roadways, parking lots, or were graded or altered by human activity.

Property area: the total area contained within the property boundaries of a proposed building site. It includes all areas of the proposed building site including the area of construction and the areas of non-construction.

Sedimentation: the addition of soils and decomposed matter to water bodies by natural and human intervention. Over time, sedimentation tends to decrease water quality and reduce the longevity of lakes, rivers and streams.

Wetland Vegetation: plants and trees that require or tolerate saturated soils for their existence.

Please visit www.contractorexam.com to find recommended reference books for your trade exam.

The Successful Business Plan - Part 1

2008-01-15T20:53:00.000-07:00

Starting Your Own Business

Operating a successful business of your own can bring a sense of independence, an opportunity to use your own ideas, be your own boss and many other satisfactory benefits. You can't be fired. You will have an opportunity to earn a greater income because you can earn a salary plus a return on the money that you used to start your business known as return on investment. You will experience pride of ownership. You can achieve the great satisfaction of building a valuable investment for your future.

As a small business owner, you naturally are an entrepreneur (risk-taker). As owner you will wager your business acumen against larger, very likely, more heavily financed business organizations and other free spirited, self-employed individuals like yourself. There will be excitement, and, many challenges in such a venture.

To succeed you will need:

Good management skills
The ability to manage people
Excellent product knowledge
Inner strength to be decisive to make many informed decisions
Starting capital
A market for your goods and services

By operating your own business you can adopt new ideas quickly. If an idea doesn't work, drop it just as quickly. This opportunity for flexibility will be one of your greatest assets.

Some challenges to overcome (cash flow).

The above are some of the advantages and pleasures of operating your own business but let us take a look at the challenges you will need to overcome.

Having employees means you will need to meet payroll week-in and week-out as well as associated payroll taxes. If you choose to purchase goods and materials on credit from suppliers, you must have money to pay those creditors on time. If they are not paid in a timely fashion you may find your business without suppliers. When you are in the start up phase, you will need to make a list of the office equipment and furnishings, project tools, equipment and vehicles which must be purchased. On time payments not only give you peace of mind but in the words of an old saying "a good name is to be chosen over riches."

Here are just a few other monthly cash outlays you will need to consider:

Advertising
Rent or mortgage
Phone
Bookkeeping expenses
Office supplies
Vehicle expenses
Utilities

You must accept sole responsibility for all decisions. A bad decision can result in losses not only to yourself, your employees, creditors but your customers as well. Moreover, you must withstand (many times alone) adverse situations caused by circumstances beyond your control. Do you have the stamina?

Some examples of uncontrollable circumstances:

Depressed economic conditions
Financially stronger competitor
Change in legislation
Declining population
Overall poor business conditions
Relocations of highways
Sudden changes in employees life style
Replacement of existing products by new products
Local labor situations

To overcome these challenges and keep your business profitable means long hours of hard work. This is most critical in the early years of your business. Although you will be sole owner of the business, you will not be entirely your own boss. No matter what business you choose, whether new construction, remodeling, plan and spec, design/build or service business, customer satisfaction is of utmost importance. Customer satisfaction alone will take up a great deal of your time and will determine your long term success.

Occupational safety and health administration (OSHA) and state insurance requirements will demand that your business follow their regulations. You will be required to abide by wage and hour laws and keep records in accordance with federal and state tax laws. This can mean an outlay of cash that was not foreseen.

What are my chances of success?

One of the largest single causes of business failures is attributed to poor management. There are factors over which you have little control that can affect your business, but in the final analysis, your management skills are in your direct control and there is no adverse condition which you cannot overcome with shrewd management. It is up to you. Business management courses are available at local colleges and universities. SCORE has programs and workshops to give you plenty of start up advice. Self help books proliferate bookstore shelves. Will you take the required time to improve your management skills? Will you be able to satisfy your customers? Can you do this efficiently so the risks that are beyond your control will be more than compensated for? This accomplishment requires expert management. Will you become self-educated in business management?

(stay tuned for Part 2)

The Grassroots Newsletter - Jan 2008

2007-12-25T15:37:00.000-07:00

This month's quote:

"Procrastination is, hands down, our favorite form of self-sabotage"
Alyce P. Cornyn-Selby

**BREAKING NEWS AND UPDATES**

Our webmaster is currently in the process of experimenting with different methods of delivering this newsletter to your e-mail box. If you receive multiple mailings, we apologize for confusion. Feedback is always appreciated.

Editor's Note

I am writing January's newsletter on December 9th because I try never to procrastinate. Sure, there may be times where a situation comes up beyond my control where I cannot do what was planned, and that is the main reason I start projects well in advance of the planned completion date.

This month's article is about procrastinating, good study habits and test-taking tips.

Please enjoy, and, thanks for reading The Grassroots Newsletter.

Not on a soap box

Before I start this actual article, please know I am not trying to offend, upset, or otherwise alienate anyone. I do not profess to

know everyone's individual situation. I do, however, have some experience with procrastinators. I am married to one (my mother-in-law assures me he wasn't this way before going in the military), have three sons who became quite proficient in procrastination after basic training (do they actually teach Procrastination 101 in military basic training?) and two grandsons, both of whom are following proudly in their daddy's footsteps on the art of putting off forever what they can get away with before their mom threatens "No Nintendo for a month if you don't ..."

I need it yesterday!

In today's cell phone, test-messaging, microwave, hurry up world we live in today, it's easy to put things off until the last possible minute, including studying for an important exam or ordering test preparation material needed to study for that exam. I understand there will always be exceptions to a rule, but for the most part, and I am only referring to studying and obtaining preparation material for an important exam, the sooner you acquire the needed material, the more time you will have to study. The more time you prepare for the exam, the more likely you will pass.

Professional exams are different that those taken in high school or college. And they are not about the meaning of life. They are technical tests of proficiency. You should treat these exams as a part of your job. The objective of taking an exam is to pass. Your chance of achieving this is considerably reduced by poor timing.

Let's say specific materials are needed at a job site in 48 hours. Would you wait until 2 hours before the deadline to place the order? You could, but if the material did not get delivered on time, who should take responsibility for the delay? The same goes for ordering preparation materials and setting aside time for studying. It is always best to order any materials you may need to study well in advance of your exam date to ensure you will receive them in enough time to study properly.

How we work

I do not know about any other retailer or website offering preparation material for exams. I only know about Contractorexam.com. We do not have stockpiles of information setting on shelves waiting for an order to be placed. When we receive an order, our team of researchers check for any updated codes, revisions, or new references for the state and trade ordered. In the case where new references are added or codes have been revised, it may take few days to acquire the new information and add it to the database.

When we are confident all information is current, we process the order and ship it to you. We will never, in good conscience, send outdated material, as our goal is to help you pass the exam on your first try.

If an order needs to be shipped overnight, it is wise to call first to confirm there has been no updates, as the order will not be shipped until all updates have been added. If you do this, you will be assured you will receive your order when you expect it to be delivered.

Now what?

Now that you've received your study materials, how can you retain the information contained therein? Researchers state you should allot at least 30 minutes study time for each question on the exam. This means if there are going to be 100 questions on your exam, plan on a minimum of 50 hours study time, unless you are gifted with a photographic memory, which is very rare.

Study time can best be accomplished by setting aside certain times of the week devoted to only studying. Mark on a calendar the days and times of the sessions just as you would schedule a dentist appointment. A formal schedule will prevent procrastination and maintain motivation, as well as demonstrate your commitment to your goals.

There is no single best method for studying. There is only the method that works best for you. Some people need complete silence from distracting noises, others need some sound.

Have everything you need before starting the session. Getting up and down for pens, highlighters, etc., will cut into your study time. It's better to have the room slightly more cool than warm. Don't have a lamp too close to the material and place it on the opposite side of your dominate hand.

Have the right mindset to study smarter. You cannot force yourself to study. If you're distracted by something else going on in your life, such as an important deadline at work, avoid studying.

Let's face it; a lot of the material you will be studying is boring and nobody can make you interested in a subject unless you want to be interested. Have a positive attitude and inquiring mind and at the very least, you will find the information challenging. Keep thinking of the end results. Remember, professional exams are technical tests of proficiency.

Exam day

When exam day arrives, expect some anxiety. Don't dwell on it, just focus on what you have to do. Keep the fear manageable. Take slow, deep breaths and remember, this is your goal and it is attainable. The more familiar you are with the knowledge; the easier it is to cope. This gets back to getting the study material in enough time to properly study. If, after ample study preparation, there is still an answer that eludes you, mark something, anything. The only guaranteed mark for a blank answer is zero.

L'Esprit De L'Escalier

Denis Diderot wrote this phrase and is literally translated as "staircase wit." It means "One only thinks on one's way downstairs, of the smart reply one might have made in the drawing room." This simply means do not leave the examination early. Once the exam room door closes, you cannot go back. Remain in the room for the full time to give yourself the full opportunity for recall. Recheck your work or go over any answers you are not fully confident of the answer.

Sample Test Questions

1. As of 1994, employers with _____ or employers are required to comply with the ADA.

A. 25
B. 15
C. 10
D. 12

Correct answer: B

2. An employer may not ask a disabled applicant all of the following except _____.

A. The severity of the disability
B. To take a medical exam
C. The nature of the disability
D. To demonstrate ability to perform the job

Correct answer: A

3. Persons discriminated against because they have a known associate or relationship with an individual with a disability is not protected by the ADA.

A. True
B. False

Correct answer: B

4. "Undue hardship" referring to an employer complying with the ADA includes _____.

A. The cost of the accommodation in relation to structure of employer's operation
B. Action requiring significant difficulty or expense
C. Both A and B
D. Neither A nor B

Correct answer: C

5. A special tax credit is available to help smaller employers make accommodations required by the ADA, and said employer may take a tax credit up to $_____ per year for these accommodations.

A. 2,500
B. 10,250
C. 5000
D. 10,000

Correct answer: C

6. Title II of the ADA prohibits all public entities __ from discriminating in employment against qualified individuals with disabilities.

A. Regardless of the number of employees
B. Having more than 10 employees
C. Having more than 5 employees
D. Having more than 12 employees

Correct answer: A

We are happy to be interactive in your exam preparation. If you have a particular question that is troublesome to you, take the time to send an e-mail to help@contractorexam.com. Our hours of operation are Monday - Friday, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., excluding holidays.

You may also fax your questions to (888) 567-9565 . We'll do the research for you and respond with instructions to help you understand. There is no charge for this service.

Read by intelligent construction professionals.

If you have an informative article that you would like to share, please e-mail your article to maggiemay1@ContractorExam.com. If we use your article, you will get great exposure and a link to your site. Have a great month!

Maggie, Editor
www.contractorexam.com

The Mysterious World of Liens

2007-12-23T02:23:00.000-07:00

From: The Grassroots Newsletter, February 2000

This month's topic is an issue that not many in the contracting industry like to talk about. It may be a boring topic. But, as a contractor you need to be informed about your rights and privileges under your state lien laws. Each state has differing regulations but there are basic truths about liens that are standard. These need to be discussed here.

What is a lien?

The dictionary defines a lien as "a claim on the property of another as security against the payment of a just debt."

A lien is a specific legal process that can be used by contractors and others as a lawful remedy for securing payment for labor or materials that have been used to improve another person's property. Lien laws are based on the theory that if an owner's property has been enhanced, the owner should not receive the benefit of the enhancements unless he pays for them. Lien laws are designed to give some protection to laborers and material suppliers in the event of default by a contractor or property owner.

When a lien is recorded with the appropriate governmental agency, it serves as a cloud on the owner's title to the property. In the worst cases the property can be foreclosed and sold at sheriff sale with the proceeds used to pay laborers and material suppliers. If a contractor or someone else places a lien against the owner's property, the threat of foreclosure by the holder of the lien makes it difficult if not impossible for the owner to sell his property or use it as collateral for a loan. Lien foreclosures can happen even if the owner has paid the prime contractor in full but the prime contractor has not paid laborers or material suppliers.

State lien laws are a firm expression of the legislature to stand behind and protect those who enhance the property of others by adding labor and materials.

Is public property subject to a lien?

Public property is not subject to statutory lien in most states. You will want to check on the exact laws for your state or location of your business. We will discuss the Miller Act in an upcoming "Grass Roots" issue. This federal law protects the contractor on federally funded projects.

Who is entitled to file a lien?

Any person who furnishes labor or materials used in the construction, alteration, or repair of any building, land, or other structure. This is the provision no matter who requests the labor or materials.

Is the land subject to the lien?

The land directly upon which any building, improvement, or structure is constructed, along with a certain amount of space around it, is also subject to the lien, if at the beginning of the work the land was owned by the person who caused the work to be performed.

How does a contractor file a lien?

First consult an attorney to get legal advise. In most states anyone entitled to file a lien has 90 days from the completion of the structure to file a claim for a lien. In some states the original contractor may have 120 days and all other parties may have 90 days to file, so research or investigate your state laws regarding this critical point.

The lien claim must be filed with the County Clerk or County Recorder of the county in which the property is located. The claim must state the following information:

Owner or reputed owner of the property
Name of the person by whom the person claiming the lien was employed
Time when the first and last labor was performed or materials were furnished
Name of the person to whom materials were furnished
Statement of the terms, time, conditions of the contract
Property legal description
Claim for lien must be verified by oath - notarized

Your state may also require notification of the owner within a reasonable time from the time which a lien has been filed.

Does the lien have a time limitation?

A lien can bind a building for a limited time during which a suit must be filed in court. Otherwise the lien expires. Again, be informed about the time limit in your state. Some states limit the time for a lien to 6 months, others 1 year.

What is lien ranking?

When an owner or contractor causes a project to become lienable, the wise subcontractor will have information in hand to file the liens. If the matter goes to foreclosure, suit, court judgment and final settlement, then "ranking of liens" becomes important. Usually not everyone will get all the money he or she has tied up in the project.

Here is the order of payment. First, all persons other than the original contractors and subcontractors; then, subcontractors; then, original contractors (those who contract directly with the owner).

This information is very important to your business because not all jobs are the "give-price, do-work, send-invoice, get-paid, all-happy" type. Many contractors who take bids do not want to hear about liens when payments stop. They exert pressure on subcontractors or material suppliers to delay filing liens because the "owner is one of our good customers." This can be a detriment to your business if you are caught up in this game. Know your rights. Be informed. An informed contractor is a profitable contractor. A profitable contractor will be around to bid tomorrow's jobs.

When I first began my contracting business, I was eager to do a good job and I was eager to do any job that came along. The business community was aware of this, and it was not long before requests for "prices" came my way. I was informed as to lien requirements in my state. I informed one of my prospective contractors of my right to file a "notice of intent to lien" as part of the contract process (no work performed yet). It didn't take this contractor long to inform me that if I were to include this "notice of intent to lien" as part of my signed contract, I could expect no further work from him. He was afraid that this document would send a negative message to his customers and would thus hurt HIS business. That contractor was not interested in my business and was ignorant of lien laws. I no longer give "prices" to that contractor. I've found many others glad to work within the rights and privileges of the contracting community.

Staying informed has been profitable for my business. I take time to educate my prospective customers about lien law requirements. Many of my customers fully accept and appreciate the information when it is given prior to construction activity.

Test Taking Tip

When taking an exam for a license, quickly read the entire exam before answering any questions. This will give you an over view of the scope of the exam. You may find that some questions will actually answer other questions on the exam.

www.contractorexam.com

The Grassroots Newsletter - Dec 2007

2007-12-14T11:45:00.000-07:00

This month's quote:

"I will honor Christmas in my heart, and try to keep it all year"
Charles Dickens

**BREAKING NEWS AND UPDATES**

If you are starting the process of preparing for your contractor's license, you'll want to double check the references published by the exam administrator. We have found that as of January 2008, many states are upgrading the adopted code book editions they are using to write exam questions.

When you view our trade research pages, you will note that a date has been placed at the bottom of the page. That date lets you (and the webmaster) know when the research was last checked against a published candidate bulletin.

As these upgrades are discovered by our research team, we plan to send short notices out to the subscriber list to let them know that a change to the researched reference material is pending.

Editor's Note

While flipping through a magazine, I saw what first appeared to be a very beautiful home. However, something seemed out of place to me, although I couldn’t put my finger on it. Trying to evaluate what, in my mind, was wrong. I finally came to the conclusion; it had to be the columns, as everything else seemed perfect. Doing a bit of research, I found out some interesting things about columns, and this month, I’ll share with you what I found out.

Please enjoy, and, thanks for reading The Grassroots Newsletter.

Architectural Options for Homeowners

Columns are one of the primary structural elements used in homes. Although technological advances allow for thinner, lighter and stronger columns than those used in long-ago days, the rules on how they should be used are just as relevant today as they were thousands of years ago.

Column height: Single-story columns should be a minimum of 10 times the diameter or width of a column; a two-story column should be a minimum of 8 times the diameter or width.

Column spacing: Use an even number of columns to create an odd number of spaces

Beam or entablature depth: The beam depth should be 2 times the diameter or width of the columns supporting it.

Beam or entablature thickness: The beam thickness should equal the diameter or width of the columns supporting it.

You should never assume anything. For instance, a lot of pictures I found on columns show evenly spaced columns and none were ever placed in front of a window. However, a few pictures showed you can avoid monotony by varying the spacing between columns. As long as the columns are not placed in the middle path to the front door, it works. I also found pictures where some columns were placed in front of windows that followed the rules listed above that looked very attractive.

Speaking of spacing, column spacing plays an important role in the appearance of an elevation. An even number of columns should always be used to create an odd number of spaces so as not to disrupt the view of the front wall of the home.

The use of masonry to support columns can give a home an aura of substance, but you want to make sure the column shafts are in proportion to the base.

Now for the problem with the home I mentioned above. I discovered the columns were too thin aesthetically. It also had French-Creole ironwork, which did not keep with the Federal-style home. If they had used columns of the right size and right style, they would most definitely have the "home of grandeur" I’m sure they were going for.

Sample Test Questions

1. For a room with 300 square feet of floor area, a fireplace with an opening _____ wide is sufficient.

A. 24-30 inches
B. 30-36 inches
C. 36-40 inches
D. 40-48 inches

Correct answer: B

2. Unless the combustion chamber is a preformed metal one, it should be lined with firebrick at least _____ inches thick laid in fireclay mortar.

A. 2
B. 4
C. 6
D. 5

Correct answer: A

3. It is desirable to obtain relatively _____ velocities of flue gases and smoke through the throat and flue.

A. Low
B. High

Correct answer: B

4. Most fireplaces can be made more efficient by _____.

A. Adjusting the damper to suit the type of fire
B. Provide a glass screen with an adjustable damper
C. Both A and B
D. Neither A nor B

Correct answer: C

5. The top of a smoke pipe should not be less than ______ inches below the ceiling.

A. 4
B. 8
C. 16
D. 24

Correct answer: C

6. Unless the applicable code has more stringent requirements, chimneys should extend at least _____ feet above every part of the roof that lies within 10 feet of the chimney and at least 3 feet above the roof at the point of penetration.

A. 2
B. 4
C. 6
D. 8

Correct answer: A

OSHA and the EPA

2007-12-01T04:39:00.000-07:00

From: The Grassroots Newsletter, August 2005

Editor's Note

This month, Grassroots shares with you information about OSHA and the EPA. Safety should be a contractor's number one concern when working on a project. You will find links to each website so you may read the regulations in full.

OSHA and the EPA

The Federal Occupational Safety and Health Act (OSHA) was written to ensure safe working environments. All employers are responsible for providing a safe and healthy environment in which to work.

Specific parts of the Act that contain minimum safety standards for the construction industry are:

29 CFR 1904, Recording and Reporting Occupational Injuries and Illnesses
29 CRF 1910, Occupational Safety and Health Standards
29 CFR 1926, Safety and Health Regulations for Construction

Reporting and Recording Work Related Injuries and Illnesses

As an employer, you must within 8 hours of the death of an employee or the in-patient hospitalization of 3 or more employees as a result of a work related accident, orally report the death or multiple hospitalizations by telephone or in person to the nearest Area Office of the OSHA, U.S. Department of Labor to the incident. You may call OSHA's central telephone number, 800-321-OSHA (800-321-6742). If you do not hear of the incident until after the occurrence, you must make the report within 8 hours of the time the incident is reported to you.

If your number of employees are no more than 10 at any time during the calendar year immediately preceding the current calendar year need not comply with the OSHA record keeping requirements, except you must report fatalities or multiple hospitalization accidents and you must maintain a log of occupational injuries/illnesses and make reports if you are notified in writing by the Bureau of Labor Statistics.

You your number of employees are 11 or more, you must maintain records of ALL occupational injuries/illnesses, regardless of the severity.

Employee versus Independent Contractor

You must consider the person an employee if you, as the employer:

Hires the person and has the authority to terminate the person
Supervises the person
Pays the person
Withholds taxes, Medicare or Social Security from the person's wages

Recordable Injuries/Illnesses

You must record work related:

Deaths
Days away from work
Restricted work or transfers to another job
Loss of consciousness
Medical treatment beyond first aid
Any diagnosis of being work related by a health care professional
Work related cancers or irreversible diseases
Fractured or cracked bones or punctured eardrums being work related

Hazardous Materials

The OSHA Safety and Health Standard for the Construction Industry has a complete listing of all materials considered hazardous and should be referred to when questions arise concerning the safety of any material used in the construction process.

Websites

To read the regulations for each of the standards, please visit the following websites:

OSHA - www.osha.gov

29 CFR 1904

29 CFR 1910

29 CFR 1926

Department of Labor - www.dol.gov

EPA

The Environmental Protection Agency's goal is to protect human health and to safeguard the natural environment upon which life depends.

When you are taking on a project, you must consider the type of work being performed, the area (urban, rural, etc.), any hazardous materials to be used, drainage patterns, and keeping contamination of solvents and chemicals in one area.

In a relatively short amount of time, construction activities can discharge sediment and pollutants that can contaminate water runoff. Construction can also add to the particulate matter in the air and add to air pollution from the dust in the air from a construction site. Industrial and hazardous waste include, used oil, spilled or used fuel, cleaning solvents and chemicals, and batteries. Unless disposed of properly, these can add to pollution.

For all EPA regulations, visit: www.epa.gov

If, as an employer, you do not take safety into consideration, you could be setting yourself up for major losses. Lost time of the job causing a missed deadline, higher insurance rates, loss of highly trained personnel, not to mention, fines imposed for not following safety regulations, perhaps being barred from bidding on future contracts, possible revocation of your license, and/or civil lawsuits.

Employees who get injured on the job incur losses, also. Besides the obvious loss of wages, the possibility of losing the ability to work at the same job, possible harm to the employee's family (not being able to buy food, pay rent), possibly losing their life and mental or emotional problems may arise out of an injury.

Each contractor is ultimately responsible for determining standards of safety for each project. If you require specific PPE (personal protective equipment), you are responsible for providing such items. Take time to ensure everyone goes home safe at the end of each day.

The Grassroots Newsletter - Nov 2007

2007-11-20T11:50:00.000-07:00

This month's quote:

"Blessed are those who give without remembering and blessed are those who take without forgetting."

**BREAKING NEWS AND UPDATES**

Special Offer for the Holidays - Please see our front page for a discount offer we will be running through the end of the holidays.

Our site is a great place to do research! If you haven't been to our web site recently, you've missed all of the newly researched exam information. One of the features we have added to our recommended reference book list is links to free documents accessible from the web. Even if you're not planning on purchasing study material right now, our site is a great place to find free study material that no other site is providing to its customers.

Winterizing Your Home

Patio furniture should be covered to help it last longer. If a deck needs a fresh coat of sealer, this is the time to do it. Drain the gas from lawnmowers or just run them until the gas runs out.

Drain any water fountains and unplug the pumps. Have sprinkler systems winterized by the end of October, which include turning off the water supply and blowing compressed air through the sprinkler lines to purge them of water to prevent from freezing and bursting.

Check the roof for missing or damaged shingles and have them replaced. Check flashing around chimneys and other roof projections. Make sure gutters and downspouts are clean, having no leaves, as wet leaves remaining over winter add significant weight and volume to the gutter when frozen, which increases the risk of damage. Also, check for tree limbs that could be weighted down with ice that may fall, damaging the roof.

Turn off the bib-tap for your garden hoses from the basement. After doing this, turn on the bib-tap to drain any remaining water out. Remove hoses and, roll them up and hang it in a basement or garage. Place an insulated cover over the hose bibb.

Check basement windows wells and remove any leaves or garbage. Remove old caulking between the metal or cement block and the outside wall and replace with new caulking, as well as caulking around windows, vents and other openings. Examine walls and foundations for cracks. If any are found, caulk them to keep moisture out. Also insulate exterior outlets and switch plates with foam sealing gaskets.

All exposed piping needs to be insulated. Foam insulation will do, but it is best to wrap them with electrical heating tape first, then insulate them.

Put a cover on the central air-conditioning unit and tie it down, if possible. Any window units should be removed, if possible. If they cannot be removed, close the vents and cover unit with a similar cover used for central air-conditioning units.

Hot water tanks should be insulated with an insulating blanket.

If fireplaces aren't used very often, cut a piece of fiberglass insulation and stuff it into the fireplace behind the glass doors to block cold air coming down the chimney. Of course, remember to remove this before making a fire. Have the chimney cleaned by a professional chimney sweep. Check the fire brick for any open mortar joints. Have these repaired immediately. Store firewood in a dry place away from the exterior of the home.

Have the heating unit tested yearly to make sure it's working properly. One of the most neglected, but easiest maintenance features is to change the filter every month. If the furnace is oil or propane, top off the tank. Some manufacturers estimate a savings of up to 30% can be saved by installing a programmable thermostat, so this is something to consider installing. Install a carbon monoxide detector and remember to replace the batteries often in them and in all smoke detectors.

If the temperature drops below freezing where you live, adding extra insulation to the attic will prevent warm air from creeping to the roof and causing ice dams.

Sample Exam Questions

1. Open compressor motor windings will be indicated by a/an _____ resistance reading on the ohmmeter.

A. Infinity
B. Less than normal
C. Low resistance
D. None of these

Correct answer: A

2. Shorted compressor motor windings will draw _____ amperage.

A. No
B. Excessive
C. Low
D. Somewhat higher

Correct answer: B

3. When checking voltage across a two terminal overload, line voltage is indicated when _____.

A. Open
B. Close

Correct answer: A

4. Shorted compressor motor windings will be indicated by a/an _____.

A. More than normal resistance reading
B. Excessive resistance reading
C. Less than normal resistance reading
D. Infinity resistance reading

Correct answer: C

5. Grounded compressor motor windings will be indicated by a/an _____ resistance reading.

A. Excessive
B. Infinity
C. Less than normal
D. Low

Correct answer: D

6. When checking voltage across a two terminal overload, no voltage is indicated when closed.

A. True
B. False

Correct answer: A

7. On compressors, the oil level in a sight glass should be ____ the center of the sight glass.

A. At or slightly below
B. Exactly at
C. Above
D. At or slightly above

Correct answer: D

8. Loss of oil in a compressor could be caused by all of the following except _____.

A. Refrigerant leaks
B. Oil logging of the evaporator
C. Low refrigerant charge
D. Faulty starting components

Correct answer: D

We are happy to be interactive in your exam preparation. E-mail works best, since our staff does not adhere to a 9 to 5 routine. If you have a particular question that is troublesome to you, take the time to send an e-mail to help@contractorexam.com.

You may also fax your questions to (888) 567-9565. We'll do the research for you and respond with instructions to help you understand. There is no charge for this service.

Read by intelligent construction professionals.

If you have an informative article that you would like to share, please e-mail your article to maggiemay1@ContractorExam.com. If we use your article, you will get great exposure and a link to your site.

Have a great month!

Maggie (editor)
www.contractorexam.com

Additional Information

Reference books - if you can't find the title through one of your favorite construction book suppliers, try doing a title search at amazon.com or isbndb.com to see if the book is still in print or if a used copy is available.

We would like to remind all visitors to our web site that we can not take responsibility for the accuracy of reference document titles and/or editions given to us by third party testing administrators or state licensing boards. We only re-publish the information we find on their web sites. If you want to know when our trade page was last checked against their published information, check the date at the very bottom of the web page.

Safety in Hazardous Locations

2007-11-09T09:35:00.000-07:00

All of the following are according to OSHA regulations:

Roofs

Any slipping hazard, such as frost, must be removed before anyone gets on the roof surface. Skylights and openings must be covered and secured or have guardrails installed to keep workers from falling through the opening. Slide guards are to be installed along the roof eave after the first 3 rows of roofing material for any roof pitch over 4:12 up to 6:12. Pitches that exceed 6:12 must have slide guards installed along the roof eave after the first 3 rows of roofing material are installed and again every 8 feet up the roof. If the ground-to-eave height exceeds 25 feet, safety harness systems must be used with a solid anchor point.

Excavation and Trenches

Before any excavation or trenching work is started, the location of all underground utilities must be found. You can do this by contacting the local utility locating service. Workers must be kept away from digging equipment and are never to be allowed in an excavation when equipment is in use. Workers must keep from getting in between equipment in use and other obstacles and machinery.

All equipment and excavated dirt must be kept back 2 feet from the edge of the excavation. Before any worker enters a trench or excavation, a competent person must conduct daily inspections and correct any hazards.

Workers must be provided a way to get into and out of a trench or excavation. Ladders or ramps to serve this purpose must be within 25 feet of the worker. Any excavation or trench over 5 feet deep must have shoring, trench boxes, benching or the sides sloped back. Unless a soil analysis has been completed, the earth’s slope must be at least 1 ½ feet horizontal to 1 vertical.

Water must be kept out of trenches. The trench must be inspected for soil movement and potential cave-ins.

When dirt or debris is being loaded into dump trucks, the driver must stay in the cab of the truck and workers must stay clear of the truck.

Foundations

The depth of a foundation or basement trench cannot exceed 7 ½ feet deep unless cave-in protection is provided. The horizontal width of the foundation trench must be kept at least 2 feet wide and make sure no work activity vibrates the soil while workers are in the trench.

Inspect the trench on a regular basis for any changes in the stability of the earth. Stop work immediately if water, cracks, vibrations, etc, are noticed and correct the problem before starting the work again.

Tools and Equipment

Keep all hand tools and equipment in a safe condition, checking them often for any defects. Remove any defective tools or equipment from the job site immediately. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the safe use of all tools. Make sure tools are grounded.

Equip all power saws with blade guards and make sure these guards are in place before using the saw. Never use a power saw with the guard tied or wedged open. Saws must be turned off before leaving them unattended. Always use the tool’s handle to raise or lower the tool, never by the power cord.

Wrenches with jaws are sprung to the point of slippage are not to be used as are impact tools with mushroomed heads. They must be replaced.

Mobile Equipment

Workers must be trained to steer clear of backing or turning vehicles and equipment with rotating cabs. All off-road equipment must be equipped with rollover protection. Any equipment with back-up alarms must be maintained. If equipment does not have back-up alarms, someone needs to help guide them back. All equipment must have fully operational braking systems and brake lights. Seat belts must be worn when transporting workers in motor or construction vehicles.

At least a 10 foot clearance must be maintained from overhead power lines when operating equipment. When inspecting or repairing dump trucks, block up the raised bed.

The stability of cranes must be ensured. The rated capacity of the crane must be known and used accordingly. Use a tag line to control materials moved by a crane.

Electrical

Until all power is shut off and a positive lockout/tagout system is in place, prohibit work on new and existing energized electrical circuits. You should use only 3-wire type extension cords designated for heard or junior hard service. All temporary power, including extension cords, must be protected with GFCIs.

Never bypass any protective system or device designed to protect employees from contact with electrical current. Ensure ladders, scaffold, equipment, vehicles or materials never come within 10 feet of electrical power lines.

Fire Hazards and Extinguishers

Avoid spraying paint, solvents or other flammable materials in rooms with poor ventilation. Flammable liquids are to be stored in safety cans outdoors or in an approved storage facilities. Never store LP gas tanks inside a building. Temporary heaters must be kept at least 6 feet away from any flammable container. Any spills of combustible or flammable materials must be cleaned up properly and promptly.

A fire extinguisher must be provided near all welding, soldering or other sources of ignition. They must be easily seen and easy to reach in case of an emergency. There must be one extinguisher provided within 100 feet of employees for each 3,000 square feet of building.

Train all employees on the PASS method to extinguish a fire:

Pull the pin
Aim the nozzle
Squeeze the lever
Sweep the nozzle

Maggie May
www.contractorexam.com

Workplace Safety

2007-11-07T08:53:00.000-07:00

Safety should be the number one priority on any job site. Employers and employees both have obligations to ensure workplace safety.

Employer's Obligations

Employers must implement a company safety program that includes a clear statement of safety policies and procedures, procedures to analyze job site hazards so they can be corrected or controlled (whether hazards are present or potential) and training for all personnel. Said training must be on applicable OSHA standards and company safety requirements. Training should be conducted on a regular schedule (yearly, quarterly, monthly, etc, depending on size of company and number of employees).

It is the employer's obligation to keep all employees and the workplace safe by informing all employees on how to protect themselves against hazards that cannot be controlled, conduct regular job site inspections and have someone who is trained in first aid on the job site.

Employee's Obligations

It is the employee's obligation to follow all company safety policies, wear all required personal protective equipment, ensure all safety features on tools are working properly, avoid horseplay or any other activity that could create a hazard and report any unsafe practices or any injuries or accidents to the supervisor.

PPE (Personal Protective Equipment)

Anytime a danger of electrical shock is present or an overhead, falling or flying hazard exists, workers must wear hard hats. When a hard hat has taken a heavy blow or electrical shock, regardless if there is no visible damage seen, it must be replaced.

Safety toed shoes are recommended at all times. Shoes must be both slip-resistant and puncture-resistant, even if they are not safety toed.

The correct gloves must be worn for each job. They should fit snugly and anyone working with fiberglass should tape the glove gauntlets.

A safety harness must be worn at all times for fall protection. Body belts are NOT used for fall protection, only for positioning.

At the Site

All walkways must be clear of trash, tools, or anything else that may cause someone to trip.

Guardrails, whether permanent or temporary, should be installed on stairs before they are used for access between levels to ensure no one falls or steps off the edges. Never store any materials on stairways used for general access between levels.

Ladders must be placed at the proper angle (1 foot out from the base for every 4 feet of vertical rise). Ladders must be inspected at regular intervals for any defects so they can be repaired or discarded. Ladders should be extended at least 3 feet above the landing to provide a handhold or balance. Never place a ladder where it could be knocked over accidentally, i.e. passageways or traffic areas. Never use a ladder for a platform, runway or scaffold planks. Anyone climbing a ladder should maintain 3 points of contact and should always face the ladder.

Scaffolds should be inspected before each use. Each scaffold must be capable of supporting its own weight and 4 times the maximum intended load. Scaffolds should always be erected on firm and level foundations. Scaffold planks cannot have any visible defects. The front edge of the platform must be kept within14 inches of the face of the work. The planks or platform cannot extend more than 12 inches beyond the end supports to prevent tipping. Unless using a tag line, never swing loads near or on scaffolds. Shore or lean-to scaffolds are never to be used. Never erect, use, alter, or move scaffolds within 10 feet of overhead power lines. No one should be allowed on a scaffold that is covered with ice, snow, or any other slippery material. Any platform that is more than 10 feet above the ground or floor surface should have a standard guardrail. If guardrails are not practical, use some type of fall protection device.

Floor and wall openings should have some type of fall protection installed such as guardrails, toe boards, slide guards, or roof anchors. Reiterate safe working practices before any worker begins work on foundation walls, roofs, trusses, floor installations or exterior wall erections.

This article will be followed up with another article specific to safety pertaining to roofs, excavations, trenching, electrical and fire protection.

Maggie May

www.contractorexam.com

Landscaping for Fall and Winter

2007-11-04T01:47:00.000-06:00

From: The Grassroots Newsletter, September 2006

Editor's Note:

This month's article is on landscaping and landscaping for fall and winter. Fall is the perfect time to start preparing for your spring landscape and every home needs a bit of extra cheer in the dreary winter months. And, of course, we return to our usual sample questions at the end of the article.

Landscaping for Fall and Winter

There are many variables when asked to do a landscaping job; budget, climate, personal tastes, and how the lawn will be used. It can be daunting when starting, but remembering a few basics should help in the process. The most important thing is to start with a plan. Don't plant something somewhere just because there is room for it there at that time.

A yard should have year-round interest. It really isn't difficult to plan for fall and winter landscapes but most people don't think about it. You want to strive for flowering trees and shrubs during the spring/summer months and fall foliage and shrubs with colors for winter.

Layer planting beds, preferably 3 rows (facing north) and continue this continuity throughout the yard. Plant evergreens which will also provide continuity and give you structure for winter interest. Use annuals to supplement supplement perennial color and "plug" any gaps in color.

Incorporate hardscape (walls, fences, decks, etc.) features to frame the property and give it a more "finished" look. Install water features as a focal point as they are extremely visually appealing as well as emitting soothing sounds. Varying foliage textures and colors should be used to diversify the yard. Not all evergreens are green!

Sometimes it's best to just "go with the flow." If the yard is rocky, mostly shade, punishing summertime heat, or has a steep slope, you must work with what is there; i.e., building a retaining wall before planting on a slope, planting drought resistant plants or plants that thrive in the shade.

Lastly, but equally as important as having a plan, functionality takes precedence over aesthetics. A landscape design must be safe, convenient and usable.

SAMPLE EXAM QUESTIONS

1. The drainpipe from a lavatory must be at least _______ inch in diameter.

A. 1 1/2 inch
B. 1 3/4 inch
C. 1 1/4 inch
D. 1 7/8 inch

Correct answer: C

2. Plumbing fixtures are made from _________.

A. Vitrified porcelain
B. Steel coated with porcelain enamel
C. Stainless steel
D. All of the above

Correct answer: D

3. Building codes require that all dwelling units be equipped with toilet facilities that include:

A. A water closet
B. A lavatory
C. A bathtub or shower
D. All of the above

Correct answer: D

4. Garbage disposals must be connected to _____ inch waste piping.

A. 1-1/2
B. 1-3/4
C. 1-7/8
D. 1-1/4

Correct answer: A

5. The spacing of supports on horizontal runs of cast iron soil pipe shall not exceed _____ feet.

A. 3
B. 4
C. 5
D. 6

Correct: C

6. Sand-lime mortars harden at a high, veritable rate.

A. True
B. False

Correct: B

7. Masonry cements ______ be used in grout.

A. Should not
B. Should
C. Should always
D. Can sometimes

Correct: A

8. As described in ASTM, there are four mortar types:

A. S, N, O, and R
B. M, S, N, and O
C. P, M, S, and O
D. None of the above

Correct: B

9. The water service pipe connecting the water main to a building shall be buried below the frost line or a minimum of _____ inches.

A. 6
B. 8
C. 12
D. 10

Correct: C

10. Brazing is used to join pipe and fittings in ______.

A. Saltwater pipelines
B. Air lines
C. Oil pipelines
D. All of the above

Correct: D

Darren, webmaster
www.contractorexam.com

The Anatomy of a Contract

2007-10-22T09:13:00.001-06:00

When entering into any contract, all parties must be mentally competent, at least 18 years of age and must have the legal power to enter into the agreement as well as carry out the terms of the agreement.

There are two essential parts that make a contract legally binding: An agreement (a meeting of the minds) and consideration (the exchange of things of value).Within these two components, there are other parts adding to the legality of the contract including the offer, performance, terms, conditions, obligations, payment terms, liability, counter-offers and clauses for breach of contract, which will be listed later in this article.

With few exceptions, for instance, the sale of real estate and tasks that cannot be completed in one year, contracts do not have to be written. If all elements of a contract exist, the contract is legally binding, whether it is written, oral, or an online or “E-contract.” Each state has its own legal requirements and it is wise to consult these to find the specific regulations that pertain to any contract you are considering entering into.

All contracts pertaining to construction should include the following:

Names and addresses of all parties involved and contractor’s license number
An approximate timetable for starting and finishing the job
Names of subcontractors
The scope of work to be done
The location where the work is to be performed
Clear financial terms of payment including total cost and when payments are due
Specifications of materials and equipment needed, demolition and cleanup provisions
Brand names (if possible) of all products, appliances and fixtures to be used, as well as colors used
Who will be responsible for obtaining building permits
Guarantees
Conditions for termination of the agreement, arbitration and who is responsible for legal fees in the case of a breach of contract
Signature lines and the date the contract is signed

No essential term may be left for future agreement!

Contractors should include addendums for what isn’t included. This is especially important when the homeowner assumes existing wiring and plumbing are adequate, sub flooring is sound, baseboard and window trim can be reused, etc.

All changes to the original contract must be made in writing, signed, dated and retained by both parties.

Maggie, customer service
www.contractorexam.com

The Grassroots Newsletter - Oct 2007

2007-10-17T20:04:00.000-06:00

This month's quote:

"An open mind leaves a chance for someone to drop a worthwhile thought in it."

Two for One Sale Days - We'd like to announce the availability of our "2 for 1 sale" that we occasionally display on our site's front page. These sales are such a great discount that we can only offer them for one day. If you have a buddy that needs to get exam study materials (even if it's for another state and trade), this is a great way for the two of you to pool your resources together and get one heck of a deal on exam prep materials for both your needs.

Also, if your state requires you to take a Business and Law exam, you can add the entire study package (software, tutorials, practice tests and instructional videos) for no additional cost. So remember to check our site frequently for these great one day opportunities.

New links to external service providers - our visitors will start to see links in Google ad blocks to other sites on many of our pages that will help them in their job search. You will find links to nationwide and local job data bases and construction companies (plumbing, electrical, HVAC) either offering services or looking for qualified contractors. We recommend that you use these links to contact the companies to find work.

Editor's Note

This month will start a series of do's and don'ts of exterior home designs. Have you ever driven by a home and wondered "What were they thinking?" More and more people today are "designing" their own homes or sketching out their own design on paper to show the contractor what they want a remodel to look like. This month, we're going to start by explaining basic principles of design and then apply those principles on front entry.

Please enjoy, and, thanks for reading The Grassroots Newsletter.

Home Design Principles

Primary mass is the largest portion of the home. Secondary mass is the additional geometrical shapes added to create the overall look of the home Voids (windows, doors and open spaces) create negative space allowing for breaks within the mass. All of these must be arranged to create balance and rhythm across the elevation.

Balance is the visual relationship among the parts of a home on either side of an imaginary centerline drawn through the home. Balance can be either symmetrical (the shapes on one side of the centerline match the shapes on the other side) or asymmetrical (the shapes do not match exactly, but if the shapes have equal visual weight, they will be visually balanced).

Scale is the size of something compared to a reference standard. It can also mean how we perceive the size of something in relation to another thing.

Proportion relates to both size and balance and visually refers to the proper relationships of one part to another part or to the whole. Building materials and home styles change, but proportions are timeless.

Rhythm organizes forms and leads the viewer's eyes. Think of a series of arches, a row of dormers or repetitive roof lines to understand how rhythm establishes predictability in design.

Psychological theories have verified our minds will simplify the visual environment in order to understand it. We must understand the principles of proximity (objects close together should complement one another), continuity (where the eyes move along a path in a given direction) and similarity(objects that share common textures or colors) to understand that incorrect arrangements create visual clutter.

Entries

A recessed entrance creates an outdoor foyer that serves as a transition between the outdoors and interior spaces. Flush entrances line up with the exterior wall of house, using trim work, surrounds and sidelights to bring attention to the entry. Projected entrances extends forward to "greet" visitors. Projections can be a simple overhang or a completely covered area.

The old adages "You never get a second chance to make a first impression" and "Bigger is not always better" are true for the entry on a home. When the secondary mass towers over the door, narrow walkways lead to the door, using the wrong materials, fanlight windows used instead of using it as a transom, etc., all create a "disappearing" door.

Large entry areas are used to draw attention to a structure. Think of churches and government buildings where the large entry area make the building more prominent. An entry that is exaggerated or out of scale with the rest of a house, ill-placed columns or collections of windows only magnifies the void, and in turn, magnifies the problem visually.

Many homeowners today feel that placing interesting object in front of, around, and on top of an entry door achieves emphasis and focus. The problem with this is, is does just that, only if focuses on an entry that is unappealing to look at. Too many or incompatible materials, wrong sizes or shapes or styles of columns, for instance, creates design confusion.

A top heavy facade draws the eye to the massive element instead of to the front door. An opening that is too small and even incorrect shutter sizes adds to the flawed design, causing a visually chaotic entry. The same can be said of an overly massive door. A massive door will definitely stand out, but only for the reason of its incompatibility with the rest of the elevation. An entry door should never be taller than the roof eve. For a massive door, the roof plane would need to be changed to accommodate such a door.

Garage doors facing the street

To prevent a garage door that faces the street from overwhelming the exterior elevation, repeat window patterns used on the house, repeat the panels used in the front door and paint the doors the same color as the rest of the trim on the home, Break up a 3 or 4 car garage door span with columns between the doors constructed of the same materials used on the home, place lanterns between the doors to create a sense of welcome, add decorative hardware to serve as accents and break up the monotony of large doors, use wood trim painted a different color to break up the surface of the door and provide visual breaks, and when using wood doors, repeat patterns found on other parts of the elevation.

Doors that lead nowhere

When a house has multiple doors on the front elevation, it is imperative to distinguish the entry door from the others. This can be accomplished by using a larger or more distinctive door that is a different type, size or color for the entry door,

Points to remember to create a more harmonious elevation

Entry doors should never be confused with other doors on the front elevation; Materials used in the entry need to complement those used in the primary mass of the home; The entrance approach should be inviting; Correct use of landscaping directs visitors to the front door; Transoms used above doors should never be larger than the door itself; Sidelights should never be wider than half the width of the door.

Entries should be focal points. Each entry can be unique to draw attention as long as they are balanced.

Sample Test Questions

1. A water pattern is determined by the _____ in an irrigation system.

A. Sprinkler head
B. Trajectory
C. Radius
D. All of these

Correct answer: A

2. Rectilinear patterns are defined by the _____.

A. Radius of the water thrown
B. Arc of the water pattern
C. Area they cover
D. All of these

Correct answer: C

3. A 25-degree trajectory is the standard trajectory.

A. True
B. False

Correct answer: A

4. Circular patterns are defined by _____.

A. Trajectory of water thrown from sprinkler head
B. Arc of the water pattern
C. Radius of the water thrown
D. All of these

Correct answer: D

5. A 2" pop-up fixed spray head is used for _____.

A. Short grasses, like Bermuda, and retrofit in old systems
B. Watering beneath the canopy of tall shrubs
C. Longer grasses, like St. Augustine, and low ground cover
D. Ground cover, flowers and shrub beds

Correct answer: A

6. According to the manufacturer, a full circle Series spray nozzle will produce 1 gpm.

A. True
B. False

Correct answer: B

7. Rotary heads normally have to run up to _____ times longer than spray heads to deliver the same amount of water.

A. 5
B. 10
C. 2
D. 15

Correct answer: A

8. _____ refers to the number of inches of water that is placed over a certain area per hour.

A. EVT
B. Precipitation rate
C. TVE
D. Plant water demand

Correct answer: B

The Basics of "green"

2007-10-12T16:18:00.000-06:00

From: The Grassroots Newsletter, May 2007

Editor's Note:

Kermit the frog used to sing "It's not easy being green." That philosophy isn't entirely true today. This month we will discuss what is "green" and dispel myths about building "green." The article will continue next month with how to get started, designs, guidelines and where to find more information.

Please enjoy, and, thanks for reading The Grassroots Newsletter.

The Basics of "green"

One article from Environmental Building News list the following when defining "green." Products made with salvaged, recycled or agricultural waste content; products that conserve natural resources; products that avoid toxic or other emissions; products that save energy or water; and products that do not release significant pollutants into a building.

Choose an environmentally friendly site. Orient the building to maximize natural sunlight for heat and light. Don't clear-cut the entire area. The trees remaining help cool the building in the summer and provide wind breaks in the winter. Cluster buildings to preserve open space and wildlife corridors. Build on areas previously degraded. Design landscapes to absorb storm water instead of putting in storm sewers to carry it off-site.

Use energy-efficient designs and materials to prevent HVAC loss. Less outside air infiltrating the building makes the indoor climate much easier to control. Air-tight buildings are critical to energy efficiency, but as a result, the indoor air quality is five times more polluted than air outdoors. To prevent this, use a fresh air ventilation system to exhaust the stale indoor air to the outside while bringing fresh air into the building, all while conserving energy at the same time.

Using low-flow fixtures reduce the building's water consumption. One technology is incorporating air into the process, which results in a low-flow shower that feels as strong as one using much more water.

Practice material conservation and waste reduction while using sustainable products in design and construction. Many engineers in the building materials industry have designed a myriad of products to save lumber by using optimal value engineered joists and beams requiring minimal trimming and boring for mechanical run. You can recycle job site waste and use it as mulch in a newly planted landscape.

For more details, visit www.buildinggreen.com.

Myths

Building green is expensive: The answer to this one is a "yes...but" answer. Finding the materials may be somewhat more difficult, and yes, they sometimes cost more than traditional materials, but adding a bit more to the cost now to have a home that can endure for years without requiring any serious maintenance, and at the same time save on energy costs, is well worth the initial cost.

Green building is all about material selection: Although we want to use materials with high recycled content, no VOC's, etc., this is just a small part of the big picture. As stated before, site selection, energy-efficient appliances, and water consumption are also parts of building green.

Green building problems don't work as well: Granted, the low-flow toilets of yesteryear posed some problems and there are still some people who believe inhaling fiberglass fibers will give you cancer, but today, new green products work just as well, if not better, than traditional products.

The products are hard to find: In some parts of the country, this is true. Not all products are manufactured nationwide. However; there are literally thousands of mainstream green products available. There is a plethora of web sites for just about every type of green product imaginable. To get you started, visit www.buildinggreen.com, www.buildingforhealth.com, or www.greensage.com.

Green buildings are 'ugly' and too complicated to build: Many green homes today are virtually indistinguishable from a 'typical' home. For instance, there are many ways to integrate PV panels for solar power that are attractive and effective. As for the too complicated to build, Ron Jones, owner of Sierra Custom Builders in Placitas, NM, states "This is a business that is about common sense, and a lot of green building is very fundamental. It all begins with a tight building envelope; the rest of it is not very exotic or akin to rocket science."

Selecting the Right Reference Books

2007-09-24T13:11:00.000-06:00

When preparing for a contractor license exam, or a master exam, or a journeyman exam a significant outlay of money must be considered by the serious examinee. There are numerous items of expense to consider when making your decision as to what extent (budget) you are willing fork over for your exam preparation.

Some items to consider are: Exam Application Fee, License Application Fee, Insurance , Bond, and License Fee. These items are "must-spend" items. Optional items include but are not limited to such things as study aids. Examples of study aids are preparation classes, home study courses, and reference books.

It is my opinion that an outlay for the required, as well as the suggested reference books can be well worth the investment, but certainly not a required expenditure. Your decision to invest in the reference books will pay off in having a library to refer to in future needs of building a business that has integrity and professionalism.

Another payoff will be more immediate. As you may have already perceived the obvious, studying the reference books will aid you in passing the construction licensing exam that is before you.

Selecting the right reference books for your construction license exam cna be a daunting challenge. However, there are several ways to locate a list that is right for you.

The first suggestion is to obtain a Candidate Information Brochure. This is generally available from the testing agency which administers your construction licensing exam. This brochure is typically loaded with information about your exam such as classification, exam times, exam locations, number of questions, and approved or suggested reference books.

Another place to look is a website such as www.contractorexam.com. This is my favorite place to research the kinds of information such as approved reference books and/or suggested reference books because you simply have to click on your state and, viola, you are turned on to a plethora of information equal to and exceeding any Candidate Information Brochure you may stumble into. They have also taken the trouble to post on the website in down loadable (free) format, many state and professional organizations' publications, all free and without violating copyright laws.

I hope this helps you in your decision to select the right reference books for your pursuit of your state construction license exam preparation.

R. Jansen

Common Wiring Mistakes

2007-09-18T20:55:00.000-06:00

From: The Grassroots Newsletter - April 2007

Editor's Note:

This month's article is about how to recognize and correct wiring mistakes that can endanger a home. Electrical projects are best left to the experts. Just ask my step-brother. He works in a coal mine and I suppose he thought this gave him the expertise to install a microwave over his range. Long story short...his house burned to the ground 3 weeks ago. For all of the experts out there, the tips listed below may well be worth pointing out to a customer when you are doing the project hired to do.

Common Wiring Mistakes

First and foremost, always turn off power at the main panel when doing any electrical work.

Never connect wires outside of an electrical box, as these boxes protect the connections from accidental damage and they contain any sparks and heat from loose connections or short circuits. If you find a connection without a box (porch lights, for instance), install one and reconnect the wires inside it.

Short wires most likely cause bad connections. Leave enough wire for at least 3 inches to protrude from the electrical box. If you find wires that have been cut too short, you can add extensions by using wire connectors. P ush in wire connectors are great to use in tight spaces and can be found in hardware stores or do-it-yourself home centers.

Cables must be protected between framing members, since it is especially vulnerable when run over or under wall or ceiling framing. Protect the exposed plastic sheathed cable by screwing a 1 1/2 inch or 2 x 2 inch thick board alongside the cable. There is no need to staple the cable to the board.

Loose switches and outlets are dangerous. They can move causing the wires to become loose from the terminals and loose wires have been known to arc or overheat. An easy fix would be shimming under the screws, special electrical spacers that are placed over the screws before screwing into the wall, or a coil of wire wrapped around the screws.

Here's the one my step-brother should have heeded... never replace a two-prong outlet with a three-prong outlet without making sure there is a ground wire available. An inexpensive tester purchased at any hardware store will tell if the outlet is grounded. By the same token, if you find a three-slot outlet in an ungrounded box, replace it with a two-slot outlet.

All electrical boxes must be flush to the wall surface if the surface is of a combustible material. Never recess an electrical box behind combustible surfaces. If you find this to be the case, install a metal or plastic box extender. If you use a metal box extension on a plastic box, make sure you connect the metal extension to the ground wire in the box using a grounding clip and a short piece of wire.

Never install a cable without a clamp. Single plastic boxes don't require internal cable clamps, but you must staple the cable within 8 inches of the box. For larger plastic boxes, a clamp must be used and the cable must be stapled within 12 inches of the box. Approved cable clamps must be used to connect cables to metal boxes, making sure the sheathing on the cable is trapped under the clamp and 1/4 inch of sheathing is visible inside the box.

Use the correct size box. According to the National Electrical Code, to determine the minimum box size required, add up all the items in the box (each hot and neutral wire entering the box, all ground wires combined, all cable clamps combined, and each device - switch or outlets, but not light fixtures). Multiply the total by 2 for 14-gauge wire and 2.25 for 12-gauge wire to get the minimum box size required in cubic inches. You must choose a box with at least this much volume. Plastic boxes have the volume stamped on it. For metal boxes, measure the height, width and depth of the interior and multiply to find the volume.

If a hot wire is connected to the neutral terminal of an outlet, the outlet will still work, but won't work safely and could cause a lethal shock. White wires are connected to the neutral terminal of outlets. The terminal is always marked, usually by a silver or light colored screw. Black (hot) wires are connected to the other terminal. A green or bare copper wire is the ground and is connected to the green grounding screw or to a ground wire or grounded box.

The shock protection will be lost in GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) if the line and load connections are mixed. There are two pairs of terminals. One pair is labeled 'line' and it is for incoming power for the GFCI outlet itself. The other set is labeled 'load' and provides protection for downstream outlets.

Darren
www.contractorexam.com

How to apply for a Construction License Exam

2007-09-18T16:00:00.000-06:00

If you know the classification or specific trade that you are applying for will make the whole process of examination application a whole lot easier.

You will need to know who the examination administrator for your state or locality is in order for you to request an exam application. Some states still provide their own examination application service, including but not limited to North Carolina, Texas, Arizona and Colorado (Plumbing and Electrical). However, many states have now out-sourced this service to national testing agencies.

If the state in which you are seeking to be licensed has out-sourced the application service, then you will need to contact them directly for the application. Here a few examples of testing agencies that provides multi-state construction examination services:

PSI Examination Services
Thompson ProMetric
Promissor
Laser Grade

These agencies are accessible through the world wide web at the URL's provided above. However it has been my experience, that phone contact with these agencies is poor at best. Internet skills using web-search techniques and e-mail are the best means of contact with these agencies. The upside of this is that one can schedule and pay for an exam online efficiently.

If the state in which your are seeking to be licensed provides their own application and examination services, their department of licensing can usually be accessed from the state's official website. The search terms usually consist of words like "department of licensing and regulation", "construction industries department", "state board of electrical examiners", or "department of professional licensing".

Here is a list of some basic information needed when making an application for a construction license:

Name
Address
Phone
SSN
Years of experience
References

Being prepared with the information you'll need before you need it will always keep you one step ahead.

R. Jansen
www.contractorexam.com

The Grassroots Newsletter - Sept 2007

2007-09-17T18:55:00.000-06:00

This month's quote:

"He is the happiest, be he king or peasant, who finds peace in his home"

Breaking News and Updates

This is our first newsletter being published by way of an RSS feed. If you need instructions on how to subscribe to our feed, please go to this link:

http://www.contractorexam.com/newsletter.htm

If you haven't already noticed, we are offering a FREE AT&T calling card with every purchase until the end of the month. You can view the details of this offer from our front page by clicking on the link "Discounts and Special Offers."

Editor's Note:

While at the grocery store the other day, I overheard two women talking about how they would like to make their new homes look old. My immediate thought was to do what I do, find an antique store or flea market. On my drive home, I thought maybe they were speaking of the entire home, not just furnishings. My quest began and after much searching, here are several suggestions on how to accomplish this feat.

Please enjoy, and, thanks for reading The Grassroots Newsletter.

Everything old is new again or vise-versa

Age new floors with historic inspired finishes. Whitewashing or staining wood floors makes a rustic age-old look. Clear polyurethane coatings will bring out the grain of raw pine floors, lending an antiqued, Swedish-style feel.

Lay reclaimed bricks. Salvaged or recycled building materials, such as bricks, are wonderful for outdoor paths, stairs or patios and the various shapes and hues create an historic charm.

Even new cabinetry and fixtures will look aged if you install a single vintage appliance, such as a 1950's Chambers stove. I found several on different web sites ranging from $100 up to more than $1,000 for a pristine, restored one. Estate auctions often have vintage appliances and furniture for next to nothing. Also, try combining classic handles, knobs and latches on the modern cabinetry.

Installing a front door with age and patina will welcome guests with much more charm than the basic new door. Flea markets are a great place to find old doors, for a reasonable price.

You can combine modern and traditional plumbing in a bath for a period feel. Try a new sink and beaded board with an old claw foot tub and faucets. All white palettes look fresh while the hand held faucet adds a vintage charm.

Use old doors, windows, moldings, mantels, etc., for new purposes. One of my cousins, who happens to be a contractor, found an old wooden bed with an unusual headboard at an auction for $5. He kept it for a few months, then had a woman who wanted "just the right" mantle for her remodeled family room. The headboard fit perfectly and viola! She was thrilled, he was thrilled and ended up getting more contracts because everyone wanted him to "personalize" their homes.

Don't be afraid of millwork. Much character can be created with trim, woodwork and moldings. Wooden shelves can be placed above doors and windows for a more traditional feel.

Last but not least, my personal favorite, combining wood and stone. With this combination, you can make an old home look new or a new one look old. A stone entry hall, having a cooler nature, brings texture and contrast with a wooden staircase, which adds depth to flat surfaces.

A few more ideas..

For your customers who want a definite "cottage" feel, try these ideas:

Add a picket fence around the lawn and plant a climbing vine that spills over the top.

Adding a Dutch door not only allows cool breezes and natural light to enter, but also creates a casual and friendly feel to any kitchen.

Transform a porch into extra living space.

Install beaded board for texture and character. It can be used for either paneling or wainscoting for a time-honored look.

Installing a window seat in a cozy, light-filled nook is essential for extra seating and storage space.

Install that farmhouse sink you found at the last flea market. Some people refer to these as "apron front" sinks.

Open up shelves in a kitchen by removing the doors to show off collectibles, antique dishes or old cookbooks.

The ultimate cottage-style entry is an arbor. Try planting fragrant vines such as a climbing rose, jasmine or honeysuckle to climb on the arbor to welcome guests with a touch of romance.

Sample Test Questions

1. An effective on-the-job method of determining whether a brick should be wetted before it is laid is to sprinkle drops of water on its flat side. If these drops are absorbed completely in less than _____, the brick should be wetted.

A. 30 seconds
B. 3 minutes
C. 5 minutes
D. 1 minute

Correct answer: D

2. The masonry units in a single-wythe masonry wall are bonded together by the wall's _____.

A. Masonry bond
B. Pattern bond
C. Metal ties
D. Corner joints

Correct answer: B

3. Metal ties is the preferred method of bonding together several wythes of wall assemblies that have more than one wythe of masonry.

A. True
B. False

Correct answer: A

4. Corners and intersections in a single-wythe brick or concrete masonry non-bearing wall or partition can be bonded together by laying at least _____% of the units in an overlapping pattern.

A. 85
B. 75
C. 50
D. 25

Correct answer: C

5. When overlapping corners and intersections in a single-wythe brick or concrete unit masonry non-bearing wall, each overlapping unit should bear at least _____ inches on the unit below.

A. 2
B. 4
C. 3
D. 2.5

Correct answer: C

6. Two methods generally used to structurally bond together the several wythes of wall assemblies that have more than one wythe of masonry are masonry bond and metal tied.

A. True
B. False

Correct answer: A

7. Although English and common bonds are seldom used today in this country, Flemish bond sometimes appear in _____.

A. Contemporary churches
B. Apartment complexes
C. Shopping malls
D. All of the above

Correct answer: A

8. Combustible materials should not be placed within _____ inches of the top or side edges of a fireplace.

A. 6
B. 8
C. 10
D. 12

Correct answer: B

We are happy to be interactive in your exam preparation. E-mail works best, since our staff does not adhere to a 9 to 5 routine. If you have a particular question that is troublesome to you, take the time to send an e-mail to help@contractorexam.com.

You may also fax your questions to (888) 567-9565 . We'll do the research for you and respond with instructions to help you understand. There is no charge for this service.

Read by intelligent construction professionals. Have a great month!

Maggie, editor
www.contractorexam.com

Structural Systems

2007-09-17T08:32:00.000-06:00

From: The Grassroots Newsletter, June 2005

The structure is the most fundamental system to a house's primary purpose (to provide shelter). Foundations (also called footings), framing for floors, walls, and roofs provide support for all other layers. You should not take a shortcut when dealing with the foundation of a home. Climate dictates how deep the foundation must go. In parts of the country that are frost free, footings are placed only a few feet into the ground, where in cold climates, a full foundation typically extends 4 to 8 feet into the ground. The most important thing about footings is the consistency of the concrete. Too much water will weaken the concrete. Not enough water will make it hard to pour. Remember, curing too quickly will also weaken the concrete. To keep moisture from penetrating a new foundation, the walls must be waterproofed. Make sure you use a waterproofing system, not a damp proofing system. Some contractors will not build a foundation without a French drain.

Platform, brace, balloon, and post and beam are the four methods of wood framing. Platform, where the floor and walls for each level of a multistory home are framed one at a time, is the most common. Joints in framing should be tight. When cut and nailed property, 2 pieces of wood should join fully where they meet.

A good habit to start is to not follow the building code; always opt for far more stringent requirements. This will keep a floor from bouncing when walked on, among other things. Another good habit is to use stacked framing. This is where the rafter and joist layout coincides with studs of the wall below and the studs on different floors line up with each other. This is to transfer the load of the house straight down, to reduce settling and any cracks it might cause in the walls. It also simplifies the task of running plumbing and ductwork between floors.

For a sturdier wall frame, to reduce sound better and accommodate more insulation, frame walls with 2 by 6's. You must provide a flat, plumb surface with wall framing so drywall or plaster is applied, the wall with be flat and true. You must assure that you anchor the house to foundation at each part of the frame to the next with metal connector from foundation to roof and make sure walls are braced against lateral movement in earthquake, hurricane and tornado zones.

For floor framing, the sizes of joists and beams are governed by the length of the span and the loads placed on them. Joists are doubled around stairways or other openings in the floor. You should caulk along the top edges of floor joists, along with nailing to prevent squeaking.

Insulation is imperative for an effective barrier against outside air temperature and humidity. You must make sure every part of a wall is insulated. Insulation should not be tightly squeezed in place, as it relies on tiny air cells to retard air movement. You should use expanding spray foam around windows and door frames. Don't forget the water impermeable vapor barrier, which always goes on the warm side. In new homes, exterior walls studs are usually covered with plywood sheathing, which is then covered with builder's felt, rosin paper, or house wrap. The kind of insulation you will use depends on, among other things, access to the cavities or surfaces being insulated, the required R-value, cost, and the need for an integral vapor barrier. There are many types of insulation including fiberglass blankets, spray in foam, foam board and wet spray cellulose. You must decide which one will suit your needs best for each individual project.

Darren
www.contractorexam.com

Beginning the Search for the Right Construction License

2007-09-14T20:23:00.000-06:00

The following questions should be asked when considering the need for a construction license.

Remember that a license is defined as "permission from a governing authority to do or perform an activity which is otherwise illegal." So the first thing in considering the need for a contractor license, a master’s license or a journeyman license is this: Does the governing authority in which I intend to perform construction activity require a license for my trade?

Believe it or not, in this law-loving society in which we live today, there are many localities which do not regulate or govern certain aspects of construction activity by licensure.

Presuming the answer to the question for the need for a construction license is "yes", then the next question which should be asked is: Does the state require this license, does the city/county in which I am going to perform this construction activity require a license, or do both the state and city/county require the construction license?

Lastly, answer this question: What classification of license is right for me?

For example: I do concrete work as my main trade. But I also occasionally am asked to build a garage along with the driveway. Should my license be a Concrete Specialty, or a General Builder classification.

Another example: I am a Plumbing Professional moving into an area that requires a Journeyman Plumber License and also has a classification of Master Plumber. What license do I need? What license does my work experience qualify me for?

Plan on making some phone calls, sending some e-mails or searching the web for answers to these basic questions to get you started in the right direction. For instance a phone call to the building inspector at your local building department may be the only call you need to make.

Answering these few questions before you send for an application for an exam could save you time and money, both before you receive a license and after you begin your construction career.

R. Jansen
www.contractorexam.com

Contractor License Exam Test Taking Tips

2007-09-14T19:43:00.000-06:00

Read the directions first! Never assume you know what the directions say. Listen carefully to the instructor, as he will let you know exactly what is expected during the exam.

Look for key words such as "choose, except, not, and but." Answer the easy questions first. This is a time saver as well as a confidence builder. It also gives you more time in the end for you to focus on the harder questions. Try to finish the exam 10 minutes earlier than the time allotted. This will give you time to check for careless mistakes, double check any math solutions and the answers for the more difficult questions.

First, mark off all the answers that could not possibly be correct. This will allow you to spend your time focusing on the possible correct choices. If you’re stumped by a question, completely address the question. If your answer is only partly true, true only under certain narrow circumstances, or you have to make a significant assumption in order for the answer to be true, it’s probably not the correct answer. If you’re still stuck, circle it and move on. You can use your last 10-minutes to come back to this question. If, at that time, you still have no clue as to the correct answer, make the best guess you can.

There are no "trick" questions. If you think a question is a trick item, you’re reading too much into the question. It should be taken at face value and answered accordingly. Try circling the key words to focus on the central point. This will help you ascertain the correct answer.

You get no points for being the first person to finish the exam. Take a few 30-60-second breaks during the exam to shut your eyes and take a deep breath. This will help you stay fresh during the exam session.

Maggie May
www.contractorexam.com

Welcome to Our Blog!

2007-09-14T18:14:00.000-06:00

Welcome to our blogging area where Construction Professionals and license exam candidates can talk about their experiences with exam preparation including dealings with exam administrators (Thomson, PSI, Promissor) and state licensing agencies.

This is also a place to share corrections to misleading or inaccurate information that's been published on a state licensing agency or exam administrator's web site.

If you've been able to locate sources for hard to find references books, we'd love to have you share that information with others!

Since we provide exam preparation material for almost all fifty (50) states and the District of Columbia, we eagerly want to hear about the experiences you've had (good or bad) when going through the process of applying and testing for a state contractor's license. Maybe you know of an unpublished procedure that a state agency or exam administrator accepts that will save other applicants time and money. We want to hear about it!

In the next few weeks, you will see some older posts showing in our archive as we add content from previous mailings that proved helpful to many interested parties.

We welcome your comments and input in an effort to make improvements to the study materials we develop.

NOTE: participants are expected to act professionally. Any posts found containing bad language will be removed by the moderator.

Darren - moderator
www.contractorexam.com