Where In The World Are They?

Sagada and the Hanging Coffins (Philippines)

2014-06-07T12:32:00.000-07:00

We gave ourselves a late start and left Banaue at 9am. Our route to the little mountain town of Sagada took us through the Mountain Province and, as anticipated by the name, we drove through incredible mountain scenery. The one and only road was well established and maintained.

Ronnie couldn't resist showing his sense of humour (it's not really a drop-off) -

Bay-yo is one of many self-sustaining villages, each with their own terraces to grow rice and vegetables -

Bontoc, the capital of the Mountain Province, was merely a pit stop for fuel and a cash withdrawal. Trawling down the main street, I snapped the photo below through the van window. Momma? What is momma? In my last blog I mentioned that our guide Rusty chewed betel nut. Momma is the name given to the chewed-up discard. The natural bright red dye it contains leaves a stain wherever it falls and betel nut chewers tend to be indiscriminate as to where they spit. Municipalities throughout the Philippines are trying to clean up their streets, hence this sign. In the photo, the characteristic betel nut chewer with his missing front teeth appears to be mad.

Sagada Homestay turned out to be a cheap and cheerful place; we had our own room for P350/person (about $8/person) with a shared bathroom. Arriving there around lunchtime we ate quickly, then registered at the Tourism Information Office. They supplied a guide who could lead us to the famous hanging coffins and tell us a bit of the history. This was well worth the total price of P200 as he had a wealth of information and anecdotes.

The coffins are strangely fascinating if you consider they contain dead people and are hanging on the side of a cliff instead of being buried underground.

The location of the coffins is best understood with some perspective - the coffins in the above photo are the same ones at the bottom of the limestone pillar in this one:

Here's a photo of the surrounding area of Sagada showing some limestone pillars - note the one on the left-hand side in the middle distance that shows a patch of white ...

... I zoomed in on that particular pillar to find this! Fascinating!

Ironically, our walk to see the hanging coffins took us through the local cemetery. Apparently, not everyone likes hanging off a cliff once they're dead!

We left the guys in the marketplace and went for a walkabout around the town. Our first stop was the famous Lemon Pie shop. Time for a treat!

We couldn't understand why their tables and chairs were so small and didn't get the opportunity to ask. As we awkwardly sat down in the lilliputian chairs, I felt compelled to take a photo for the record.

And then it was time to walk off the calories! We decided to explore the 'suburbs'. A friendly dog had followed us earlier and surprisingly, had waited patiently for us to finish eating so that he could follow us once again. Notice the white dog in the photo above? He followed us for the next hour or so and only peeled off right at the end when we presume he headed home for dinner!

This was toward the end of our walk ... the dog still with us!

This viewpoint overlooked the town; our hotel is on the right-hand side higher up in the saddle -

And this is the view from our hotel room looking down toward the main area of Sagada -

It had been a pretty laid-back day as far as travel days go and we had energy to spare that evening to relax and socialize. Not that it was any warmer; I'm wearing four layers in this photo, Dennis three. If there was one more item I could have packed for this trip it would have been a warm beanie! There was nothing for it but to have a few drinks and try to ignore how cold we really were!

Once again, another wonderful day and very special to end it like this, amongst friends!


Dennis, Karen, Ronnie, Rolly, Eduard & Alex

Note on current exchange rate: USD$1.00 is about Philippine Peso P45 is about ZAR10.80

2000-year old rice terraces in Banaue & Batad (Philippines)

2014-04-19T14:59:00.001-07:00

This was easily the highlight of our trip to the Philippines. This rice terrace amphitheatre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site buried deep in the mountains of northern Luzon. The terraces were built about two thousand years ago and have been conscientiously maintained from one generation to the next. Nestled in the middle, the small village of Batad is only accessible by foot; it's not easy to get there. Of course, we wanted to go!

Together with Ronnie, our host in the Philippines, we planned a pretty intense 5-day road trip that incorporated most of the sights we wanted to see. To fit everything in we were facing some very long days and lots of driving! Ronnie took the opportunity to invite three of his friends to share the driving and enjoy the holiday along with us. Great! This allowed us to kick back and relax and be part of a tight circle of friends; we were being well taken care of in quintessential Filipino style!

Banaue:

Though we left Manila early in the morning it was getting dark ten hours later as we drove into Banaue, the gateway to Batad. A thick fog descended over the valley and the temperature dropped to a wintery coolness. We arrived without reservations thinking we'd easily find a room but apparently it was peak season! By the time we found a hotel that could accommodate all of us on the outskirts of town, it was completely dark.

The hotel was nothing special and the rooms were basic. Despite it being very cold there was no heating, not even in the common areas. It was so cold we put on every long layer we'd brought with us and sat wrapped up in extra blankets as we ate dinner! An en-suite room cost P1,000 (about US$22), which comprised a tiny double bed, one electrical outlet and a bathroom that didn't come with hot water or a toilet seat(?!), BUT ...

... in the morning we discovered the view was OUTSTANDING! These are the rice terraces of Banaue, looking down toward the small town itself in the distant valley. (We hadn't realized how far out of town we were!) Interestingly, this area is not included in the UNESCO Heritage Site because the town and surrounding infrastructure is considered too modern. It was also interesting to note that the terraces are not made from stones, as are the ones in Batad.

We posed with some of the Ifugao tribes people, longtime rice terrace labourers that have turned to tourism in their golden years to earn a few pesos. But in fact, tourism is a double-edged sword because many of the younger generation are eschewing the hard labour of farming for the more lucrative opportunities that tourism provides. As a result, the continued maintenance and usage of the terraces is actually in jeopardy.

Batad:

There are a few transportation options to get from Banaue to Batad but taking Ronnie's van wasn't one of them! The closest one can get to Batad by vehicle is the saddle that overlooks the town far below. Although it's only about 20kms from Banaue it takes more than an hour to get there! The road is currently being upgraded but mostly it's muddy and narrow. The best choice to manage the challenging terrain is a 70-year old jeepney!

Unfortunately, the only public jeepney to the saddle leaves mid-afternoon so we decided to hire a private one to maximise our time. It came with a very skilled driver as well as a personal guide who would lead us to the village of Batad and beyond. The driver would wait for us to return and take us back to our hotel at the end of the day. Total cost - P3,200 (about US$70). We got an early start as the fog typically rolls in during the afternoon.

Hitchhikers on jeepneys are a common sight and this little boy rode all the way up the mountain with us. We didn't mind but, as our driver pointed out, he should have been in school and/or his parents would worry when he didn't come home. At the end of the road he was put onto another jeepney that was headed back down. Our jeepney only looks empty because Dennis is up front and Ronnie and his friends braved the ride on the roof!

The condition of the road had us holding our breath at times! The driver alternated between babying the jeepney through gear changes and gently easing the bulk of it past other hulking construction vehicles. On the plus side, the grade wasn't too bad (at least, not until the final 3kms) and there wasn't a lot of traffic! And if you're wondering about the little boy hanging off the back, he came inside eventually.

Excuse me, did you say this was a two-way road? And wait until you see the drop-off!

Lucky break! The road is a teeny bit wider here!

It was a long way to the bottom and not much sign of civilization, other than the road!

Everything was so lush; it took a while to absorb that this is how it must have looked everywhere, before the rice terraces were built. What an incredible feat!

Finally we arrived at the Batad Saddle. Several jeepneys had arrived before us so our driver stopped where he knew he could turn around. We had a short hike uphill before starting downhill into the valley of Batad.

The journey down started with 412 steps; they were signposted, we didn't have to count them. This was the easy part, at least going down. On the way back, our quads and hamstrings burning, these represented the final push to the top. At the bottom of these steps we got a glimpse of the gorgeous valley we were about to enter. If you look carefully you can see a little of Batad and a few of the rice terraces.

Also at the bottom of these steps is a sign welcoming us to Batad.

Perhaps another half hour later, traversing the mountain and gradually going downhill, we arrived at this viewpoint. It's still amazing to think that we headed right into this picture; all the way across the terraces to exit on the other side and make our way to Tappia Waterfall, hidden from sight at the bottom of the valley.

No, I haven't zoomed in - we're actually here! Pinch me, it's so beautiful!

That's our guide Rusty, giving a thumbs up. The path through the terraces was narrow and not necessarily obvious but in hindsight we could probably have found our way without him. In truth, we had mixed feelings about Rusty; he wasn't the guide we were expecting. In typical Asian fashion, we had been passed off to someone of a lesser calibre. He'd been introduced as family ... was that supposed to make it okay?

Ronnie, Alex, Eduard and Rolly taking up the rear.

No, no, the waterfall isn't very far now ... just down a few more hundred steps!

Another half hour later and the hidden Tappia Waterfall was revealed!

At this point, we'd come so far downhill our legs were shaking like jelly! I'll admit, I had to be convinced that it was worth going all the way down to the water. I'd already started thinking about the long climb back and dreading it. However, a vendor had strategically positioned herself at this viewpoint and after a 5-minute rest and a snack break I'd changed my mind. How could I come this far and not put my feet in an icy cold bath?

The guys took it one step further and fully immersed themselves!

Rusty has a betel nut chewing habit that has stained his lips a bright red. Betel nut is a mild stimulant and proven carcinogen. This is a pretty disgusting habit and it seemed he could hardly go one minute without stuffing more into his mouth, all of which has to be spit out somewhere, staining everything it touches. Unable to even speak properly with a mouth full of 'chew', he tried to convince us that it was good for him. As our arguments against it fell on deaf ears, we could only watch him in dumbstruck fascination.

It had been the perfect rest stop and after delaying for as long as we could, we reluctantly began the journey back to the top. First the rough path from the waterfall, then the ancient steps of the rice terraces. Do you spot Ronnie at the start of the stairs? It felt like a really long way to the top of the terraces. From there the path wound its way steadily uphill to the bottom of the last 412 stairs. We lost track of time but it probably took us a good three hours to return all the way to the Batad Saddle.

Down to the final 412 steps! C'mon guys, we're almost there!

Finally, we made it! Sure enough, our jeepney driver was waiting for us. I'm not sure which was scarier, coming up or going back down to Banaue! The jeepney was full, no-one wanted to be outside; once again the temperature had dropped several degrees as the fog rolled in. It felt good to pick up a few school children that would otherwise have had to walk miles to get home. It had been a long exhausting, incredible day!


Alex, Ronnie, Karen, our jeepney driver, Dennis, Eduard & Rolly

Note on current exchange rate: US$1.00 is about Philippine Peso P45 is about ZAR10.80

Dennis eats Balut! (Philippines)

2014-03-26T10:57:00.000-07:00

Any fans of the TV show, Survivor? I've always thought Dennis would do well on this show and here is yet one more thing that strengthens that theory. Balut, commonly sold as street food in the Philippines and eaten warm, is generally considered a delicious treat. More recently it has even been introduced as an appetizer in upscale restaurants. But in fact, the population is split in its opinion as we found out firsthand through Ronnie and his family.

Balut is a fertilized duck egg that is cooked when the embryo is partially developed. Taking a few photos to record the event, I watched in absolute fascination as Dennis unwaveringly consumed this strangely weird food item. If you think these photos are going to make you feel queasy you may not want to read any further! Though he declined to eat one himself, Ronnie instructed Dennis in the art of fully appreciating this delicacy.

Step 1: Gently crack open the hollow end of the egg and open it up just enough to make a 'cup'.

Step 2: Sip and savour the delicious broth!

Step 3: Once all the juice is gone, peel away the rest of the eggshell.

Step 4: Pop the whole thing into your mouth before you have too much time to think about it!

Just like Survivor!

Not so bad! Definite instant credibility with the locals!

So, what does Dennis have to say? "It tasted like a hard-boiled egg, maybe a little tougher." And as for me, I just don't have the courage to try it!

Note on current exchange rate: US$1.00 is about Philippine Peso P45 is about ZAR10.80

Philippines - First Impressions

2014-03-26T03:56:00.000-07:00

Philippine Airlines is the best! Plenty of legroom for tall people and the kind of service that is rare to see these days. Well okay, our flight was delayed by almost an hour which at 2am in the middle of the night is no fun at all. Our tummies were grumbling as we boarded the plane; a midnight snack was well overdue! But we were pleasantly surprised to receive immediate dinner service. And three hours later we also received breakfast! Love is ... food!

Our experience in the Philippines differs to our travels in other southeast Asian countries because we have an extended family member living near Manila. In an exceptionally generous gesture, Ronnie accompanied us everywhere, thus providing us an intimate knowledge of his country and customized transportation. It was great to finally meet him and very nice that we didn't have to think about the logistics of getting around.

Ronnie collected us from the airport and took us to our home base; a house owned by Dennis's uncle and his fiancée in nearby Marikina City. The house is a thin four stories tall with the topmost floor being an outdoor kitchen and eating area. The view is expansive in all directions and fantastic for enjoying cocktails and sunsets! The neighbourhood is lively and friendly; small houses clustered tightly together and everyone socializing in the street.

Jessie, a family member who lives in the house, took great care of us while we were there and cooked some amazing meals in this tiny kitchen!

One of the first things Ronnie did was take us to a hilltop viewpoint where we could look out toward the incredibly busy city of Manila. It was a very hazy day but the cloud of smog is typical. Manila has one of the poorest air qualities in the world and despite government intervention and various clean-up programs, there has been little improvement in the last ten years. It's very unfortunate that the poor air quality extends for miles in all directions.

Filipinos regularly do their shopping at crowded noisy, hot and humid markets, in stark contrast to what we're used to; a sterile supermarket environment. It was fascinating to move through the narrow aisles, watching people laugh and interact with the vendors. Very friendly, very helpful and very relaxed! There was an incredible variety of food and other items for sale, all housed under a massive tin roof with open sides. Much larger than any Walmart or Hypermarket!

We visited historic Rizal Park on a gorgeous day! This is a very large urban park in downtown Manila, popular with locals and tourists alike as a place to relax and meet friends. A refreshing breeze lifted the haze and cooled the temperatures sufficiently that we could appreciate the sunshine. This is winter! We succumbed to a pleasantly lazy afternoon; leisurely strolling the park, admiring the sights and impressed with the cleanliness of the place.

A monument enshrining the remains of national hero, José Rizal, is the symbolic focal point of the park. It's a flagship of freedom and courage for the Philippine nation and is protected by a 24-hour guard. Sombrely watching the changing of the guard we were reminded of a similar ceremonial routine in Washington DC - USA, at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. The admiration of courage and those fighting for freedom unites us all.

The park was once notorious for its public executions by the Spaniards and most famous of these was that of José Rizal. These statues depict his execution on the actual spot where it occurred.

The puffball fountains entertained us for a while!

Apparently rules are merely suggestions here too!

The park is also a popular gathering place to practice all kinds of sport, in this case a form of martial arts. The wooden sticks simulate more dangerous weapons such as swords.

Our first jeepney sightings. These colourful vehicles were initially US military jeeps left over from World War II. They are often lavishly decorated and we can't wait to have a ride in one!

Our first weekend ended with happy smiles and a good feeling about the time we were about to spend in the Philippines! We'd been warmly welcomed and the open friendliness of everyone was lovely. Looking out at the sunset over Manila Bay I quickly grabbed a passing tourist and to everyone's amusement, gave him precise directions on how to take this photograph of all of us!

From left to right:

Ronnie, Nicky, Jenica, Romalyn, Arra, Karen & Dennis

Note on current exchange rate: US$1.00 is about Philippine Peso P45 is about ZAR10.80

Bali - Final Notes

2014-03-07T21:33:00.000-08:00

Our onward flight to the Philippines was scheduled for 2am, giving us a full day in Bali before having to go to the airport. We decided to arrange for a car and driver to take us to a temple on the southern-most part of the island, stay there until sunset and be dropped off at the airport on the driver's way back to Ubud. To hire a personal driver for this length of time (almost eight hours) would usually be a decadent extravagence but in Bali it cost us IDR360,000 (about US$30).

Transport service touts can be found at almost every street corner in Ubud so after speaking to a few the day in advance of our departure, we selected one we liked. We were definitely under the impression that he would be the one driving. However, someone else turned up to collect us. I'm mentioning it now because we've discovered this is very common practice in all the southeast Asian countries we've since travelled in.

The person speaking the best English is the one on the street, drumming up business. He'll be the one who gives you the confidence that he knows exactly where you want to go, and you feel pretty good about the fact that he's able to communicate effectively in English. The person who actually delivers the service is someone who doesn't speak any English or, if you're lucky, may manage a few basic greetings and responses.

In this case, we weren't terribly concerned as our driver seemed a very nice young man and hand gestures go a long way when they're accompanied by a wide smile. The vehicle had a distinct new car smell and we managed to learn that our driver was using his father's brand-new SUV, driven out of the showroom just the day before! Aah, now we understood the flower blessings on the car and of course, he drove exceptionally carefully the whole way!

Pura Luhur Ulu Watu is another of Bali's important directional temples. It's also one of the most scenic with the pagoda perched on the edge of a cliff high above the crashing ocean waves.

A beautiful stone wall and pathway lines the cliff edge.

Our driver did not accompany us into the temple grounds but gave us the freedom to explore on our own and in the timeframe we set. Dennis was given a bright purple sarong to wear and I was obliged to put on a bright yellow 'good luck' sash.

This temple also has a large number of monkeys that intermingle with the tourists. In some places the paved pathway is so crowded with them that over time, and in order to keep some distance, the tourists have worn a new pathway through the brush next to the official pathway. But I was still only about 10-feet away when I took this picture. The babies are so cute!

Be warned, the monkeys will steal anything they can get their hands on; hats and glasses being on top of the list. They run up and down along the pedestrian path wreaking havoc amongst unwary tourists. Unfortunately, the monkeys are rewarded for this behavior because the only way to retrieve your belongings is to give them food. Opportunistic locals will quickly pass the naughty monkey a banana, retrieve the stolen item when the monkey drops it and then demand IDR20,000 to IDR50,000 in payment for their 'good deed'!

One monkey tried to grab my cap but I yelled and the monkey hissed, neither of us very happy. In the next moment he had someone's sunglasses in his cheeky little hands! Thankfully, not wanting to even risk losing prescription glasses I'd taken mine off. With no opportunistic local nearby, this poor tourist watched her glasses being twisted, then broken and when all interest was lost, they were carelessly discarded. Bad monkeys!

As the sun went down the monkeys disappeared, as did most of the tourists. A quiet stillness fell over the temple. Beyond the changing colour in the sky and the sound of the ocean below, you could finally feel the spirituality of the place. We stayed, silently watching and listening, until we knew it was time to go. Au revoir, Bali - so many very special experiences we've had here!

Note on current exchange rate: US$1.00 is about Indonesian Rupiah IDR12,160 is about ZAR10.60

We'd like to go back to Bali one day so I made some notes for future reference. If you'd like to go, you may find the following helpful in planning your trip.

A note on the visa and departure tax:

Currently, for US passport holders at least, Bali conveniently issues a visa on arrival (VOA) valid for stays of up to thirty days. They cost US$25 each or the equivalent in IDR, these two currencies being the only ones accepted, plus VISA or MC. There is also a departure tax fixed at IDR150,000 or US$18, a very bad exchange rate. Note to self: next time, remember to hold back enough local currency to pay the departure tax! And remember that we liked it so much we should definitely stay the full thirty days of the VOA validity!

A note on the weather and seasons:

We were in Bali from the 2nd to the 18th of January. This falls in the wet season that runs from October to April. It rained most days but this was usually welcome relief from the heat. It never rained so hard that we were afraid to ride the motorbike, or had to change any of our plans. We also discovered that the rain was very localised; if it was raining on one side of Ubud, it wouldn't necessarily be raining on the other. This was a good time for us but the months of February and March may be better; the rice would be further along in its growth cycle. The dry season is from May to September and two of the busiest tourist months fall in this period; July and August. December is another busy month.

A note on accommodation:

Though our Airbnb studio was perfectly adequate we weren't very happy when we found out that certain information had been misrepresented on the internet. When we made the booking we were under the impression that we were staying somewhere owned and managed by a Balinese family. In fact, this family was nothing more than a front for the westerner who was subletting the property she was renting. And the reason for the subterfuge? The westerner was living in Bali on a visa that did not allow her to profit in any way on the Balinese economy. Besides being initially disappointed that we were not being accommodated by a local family, we also felt uncomfortable with this situation and vowed not to stay there again. We can only conclude that it ultimately all worked out for the best because we met Tinni and Nyoman who rented us the motorbike, and the Chinese gentleman Mr. Chu, whom we also really liked. In any case, we felt our later homestays were also much better value for money.

The following homestays are all owned and run by Balinese families. These are the ones we'd happily stay at again and highly recommend.

- In Jatiluwih:

Warung Teras Subak and Homestay

I Nengah Putra Yasa (Owner)

Jl. Raya Jatiluwih No. 1, Jatiluwih, Penebel

Phone # 081-237-026-333

IDR200,000 incl. breakfast (about US$16.00)

Rice terrace view and wi-fi (Ask for room # 4)

Their talented daughter, Yande, is learning traditional Balinese dancing and she danced for us.

- In Jemeluk:

Sunrise Homestay

Jemeluk Beach, Amed, Karangasem, 80852

Email: sunrisejem@yahoo.com

Phone # 62-363-23477

Mobile # 085-237-506-725

IDR200,000 incl. breakfast (about US$16.00)

Ocean view and wi-fi (Ask for an upstairs room)

- In Sideman:

Sweet Home Stay

Wayan Yuda Manis (Owner)

Br, Tebola, Sideman, Karangasem

Email: sweet_home.stay@yahoo.co.id

Phone # +6285-237-898-488

IDR150,000 incl. traditional breakfast (about US$12.50)

No wi-fi

- In Ubud:

Sayong House

Dewi Sita Street, Maruti Lane, Ubud, 80571, Gianyar

Email: sayong_ubud@yahoo.com

Phone # 62-361-973-305

IDR200,000 incl. breakfast (about US$16.00)

Central location, swimming pool and wi-fi

Accommodation cost:

Airbnb average cost per night including service fee: US$20

- small studio included shared fridge and hotplate, no breakfast or wi-fi.

Homestay average cost per night, no service fee: US$16

- always included breakfast and sometimes included wi-fi and other amenities.

A note on renting a motorbike:

There is minimal paperwork to fill out which can be a little disconcerting. If something happens to the bike you are fully liable unless you've taken out your own insurance separately. There's a lot of trust involved when hiring from a local. That being said, if you decide it's worth the risk, we highly recommend renting a bike from Nyoman:

Email: inyomansuarjana41@yahoo.com

Phone # 089-685-468-158 (Nyoman)

Phone # 087-860-913-036 (Tinni)

Motorbike rental cost:

Total cost for a 2-week rental including fuel to go roughly 600km's: US$62

We also had to purchase a new inner tube for the back tire, and have it fitted: US$8

A note on current prices:

Small bottle of water: IDR2,000 (US$0.16)

Large bottle of water: IDR4,000 (US$0.33)

Large bottle of beer (660ml) at the supermarket: IDR24,000 (US$1.97)

Large bottle of beer (660ml) at a restaurant: IDR28,000 (US$2.30)

Really good street food meal for two: IDR35,000 (US$2.88)

Really good restaurant meal for two: IDR200,000 (US$16.45)

As expected, wine was expensive and we chose not to drink any while we were there.

One cup of Luwak coffee directly from the coffee plantation: IDR50,000 (US$4.11)

1-Hour full body massage: IDR60,000 (US$4.94)

A note on things we especially liked:

1. The people are genuinely kind and friendly. Poverty is rife but everyone seems happy and we were always greeted with a smile.

2. It may sound strange but the smell of Bali is lovely. Incense is burned at all times of the day at every temple, including personal shrines in every place of business, restaurant and home.

3. Mee Goreng - fried noodles typically served with a fried egg on top.

4. The coffee; neither brewed nor instant, the powder remains sludge-like at the bottom of your cup. But the taste is so good we bought some to bring home.

5. The fresh ginger tea!

6. The variety of tropical fruit, in juice form or otherwise! Snakeskin fruit, anyone?

And lastly, a note on things that we found tough or didn't understand:

We felt very positively about Bali and everything it has to offer. We loved the people, the scenery and perhaps especially, the food. But there were two things that really bothered us:

1. Skinny and/or uncared for animals. There were stray dogs around every corner, we dodged them all the time on the scooter. There were a few exceptions but for the most part the Bainese people seem to consider animals to be responsible for themselves. It was tough to see painfully thin dogs scrounging for food, eating the few grains of rice from the daily offerings to survive. Other dogs were clearly owned by someone (a rough collar) but roamed the streets at will, constantly at risk of being run over. We saw very few cats in the city and in the country, being natural hunters, they definitely fared better than their canine counterparts. In the country too, the extreme poverty spilled over to the farm animals.

2. Litter. There are two parts to this; the first is the mess created from the daily offerings. Offerings are typically served on a small bamboo 'plate' with a few grains of rice on a banana leaf, together with some candy, flowers and an incense stick. Some places are good about removing the previous days offering when making a new one, others simply let them pile up. The sidewalk was sometimes so badly covered the only way around it was to walk in the busy road. An air of neglect hung over a few temples with large piles of old offerings and only the freshness of the latest offering to indicate recent activity. The second part is litter in general. Everywhere in Bali, cities and countryside alike, the roads are lined with litter. Public spaces everywhere and many of the temples are littered. We found it very strange that the Balinese respect for their religion did not extend to the desire to have their temples look as nice as they possibly could.

Salak, or snake-skin fruit - like apple in texture but a distinctly different flavour:

Last days in Ubud (Bali)

2014-02-22T08:36:00.000-08:00

Even though we'd thoroughly enjoyed our road trip it was great to be back in Ubud. Foremost on our 'To Do' list was to have another massage. Following a recommendation for Funny Monkey, one of the many salons along the main street, we tried a full body 1-hour massage. Wow, to feel so good for so little, only IDR150,000 (about US$12.50) for both of us! Excellent value for money!

We fitted in repeat visits to all three of our favourite restaurants. Café Lotus is located on the main street and has a magnificent view to the adjacent temple.

The view from our table in the restaurant -

Café Gayatri serves the most delicious 'Opor Ayam' - a chicken curry full of flavour! The garden seating at the back of the restaurant also looked out onto a small temple. At night the glowing votive candles that line the entrance bridge and walkways create a very romantic atmosphere. It was so inviting and we loved it ... enough to return again and again!

We'd pre-arranged to return the motorbike to the couple who had rented it to us, Nyoman and Tinni, at the Biah Biah restaurant. We greeted each other like old friends and shared tales from our adventure. Over a 2-week period we'd traveled almost 600kms (about 375 miles) on the bike and we think Nyoman was relieved to have it back in one piece. He gave it the once-over and declared we could rent it again anytime!

As for us, the limit of our good karma on the bike may have been reached, at least on this trip. We'd survived without serious accident but we both felt our odds were diminishing fast. The bike had undoubtedly made a huge difference in our holiday experience but we were also a little relieved to see it go. Free from any responsibility, we could fully relax and enjoy our authentic Balinese food, served tapas-style on banana leaves!

The white-tented restaurant on the quiet rice-paddy walk lured us back; it was rather noisy when the breeze picked up but the food was absolutely delicious!

We squeezed in the time to mail all our postcards. At one stage in its history Bali was occupied by the Dutch; when I looked at the sign for the post office I found myself wondering how much of that language had made it into the daily Balinese vocabulary. The camera accompanied me on our walks around town and I snapped a few shots of things that interested us.

Rules are obviously meant to be broken - this photo was taken outside a government building!

A typical street scene; motorcycles far exceed the number of cars.

The Ubud Royal Palace, now used as a main site for nightly cultural dance performances.

A treehouse that childhood dreams are made of?

What a beautiful setting for a wedding!

Some of the shopfronts begged to be photographed.

The music shops were interesting; the traditional instruments fascinating.

On our last day in Ubud we spontaneously chose to have another massage. How could we not take advantage of these fantastic prices? We picked somewhere at random and enjoyed another 1-hour full body massage, this time for a total of only IDR130,000 (about US$10.70). Our three massage experiences have been different but all equally as good. If only there was time for more!

Note on current exchange rate: US$1.00 is about Indonesian Rupiah IDR12,160 is about ZAR10.60

Back to Ubud! (Bali)

2014-02-21T06:36:00.000-08:00

Pura Luhur Batukaru is one of the nine directional temples in Bali that are believed to ward off evil outside spirits and protect the Balinese people. Thanks to its relatively remote location it is also one of the most peaceful. There were no vendors lining the streets outside and hardly any tourists. Getting here from Jatiluwih was a short half hour ride but returning to Ubud - only 37kms away (about 23 miles) - proved entirely frustrating and took us about three hours!

We spent at least an hour walking the extensive grounds; wandering and discovering hidden walkways, moss-covered stairways and temples in the middle of a pond.

On our way out we noticed this sign. Guidelines, number 1, 4 and 6 are typical of all temples in Bali but this was the first we'd seen the others. Point number five had us chuckling for a while!

Feeling relaxed and thinking we'd be back in Ubud in time for lunch we set off in high spirits. What followed was our most frustrating ride to date. We now understand that traveling east to west in Bali, or vice versa is not that simple unless you're following a main road. The numerous rivers that cut through the land flowing to the ocean means you always have to find a bridge to cross them. And in the country, bridges are scarce.

We'd drive south for a while, find a bridge and cross it, ask for directions, drive north for a while, perhaps dog-log a few times, find a bridge and cross it, ask for directions, drive south for a while; repeat ... several times! Sometimes we'd find ourselves on a road that was perfectly acceptable to the locals but was beyond our skill level on the bike, especially with a passenger and luggage! The photos below are typical of the roads we did travel on.

There were times we weren't sure if we were making any progress and times we'd stop five times in five minutes to check that we were indeed going in the right direction. Eventually we learned that the key was to take baby steps; pick the next small town on the map and get there, then the next one and the next one. Even so, there were still moments when we felt completely lost! But we did see some very interesting things.

This procession, we're not sure if it was a wedding or a funeral, shut down the street we needed to travel on for a while. There was nothing to do but watch ... and take photos! Dennis stayed seated on the bike (top left). The men, dressed mostly in white, came first. In the photo below, notice the man three back on the left giving me a peace sign. I happily waved back, saying "Salamat Siang!" - Good Afternoon!

The ladies, all dressed so beautifully in a myriad of colours, came next.

At the point I took the photos below we were feeling lost. Not sure whether to go left or right I told Dennis I just wanted to get off the bike, look at the map for the zillionth time and stretch my legs. Everything always feels better after a good stretch! We still don't know what this lady was harvesting but she was intent on it until she spotted me photographing her; the smile lit up her face for a few brief seconds and then it was back to work.

As we got closer to Ubud, directional signs started appearing and traffic intensified. We made our way directly to the center where we'd previously checked out a really nice homestay. Not being sure of exactly when we'd be back we hadn't made any reservations. But luckily there was a room available and it was excellent value for money considering the amenities and location.

Sayong House is located at the end of a narrow alleyway. With the noise and bustle of the city in such close proximity the compound is amazingly quiet and peaceful. For IDR200,000/night (about US$16.00/night) we had a private room with en-suite bath and hot water, a really good breakfast for two and wi-fi (it worked!). There was also a lovely swimming pool, very refreshing after our frustrating day! We'd stay here again in a heartbeat!

Our room was close to the koi pond.

I took two photos so you could see the intricately carved wooden door to our room.

The view through our window into the family compound. It was a very well kept space with every effort made to present an aesthetically pleasing picture.

Note on current exchange rate: US$1.00 is about Indonesian Rupiah IDR12,160 is about ZAR10.60

Jatiluwih - the highlight of our trip to Bali!

2014-02-17T01:53:00.000-08:00

The advantage to writing this blog in retrospect is that we're able to identify, without question, the highlight of our time in each of the countries we visit. Jatiluwih (pr. Ju-t-il-loo-eh) and the surrounding countryside yielded so much more than we expected. Located on the lower southern slopes of Mt. Batukaru, the terrain is hilly and the temperature a perfect compromise between the cold mountaintop and the heat of the flat plains to the south.

It was a fairly easy downhill ride from the Lakeside Temple albeit the condition of the road did not improve. The rain stopped and it got warmer. We asked for directions a few times; a good thing or we'd have missed our turn-off. No tour buses come this way and as usual, directional signposts are sparse. After about an hour's ride we started to see the promise of what was to come.

A green brilliance of rice paddy terraces as far as the eye could see, like velvet-carpeted stair steps leading up the mountain! It was difficult for Dennis to keep his eyes on the road and after a couple of hard bumps on the bike I asked him to please, please, STOP the bike if he wanted to look at the scenery. Though this wasn't easy as the road was narrow with little or no shoulder.

Thankfully, we soon arrived in town and could feast our eyes on foot. We paid IDR15,000 each to enter the acknowledged UNESCO world heritage cultural site which incorporates the small town of Jatiluwih. The regional administration has established a 300-hectare area of protected rice paddy fields and is also restricting the development of star-rated and city hotels. That's good news!

Jatiluwih is tiny; we counted three homestays and perhaps five restaurants, no shops. One homestay stood out above the others and we quickly secured a room for IDR200,000/night (about US$16/night). This included an en-suite bathroom with hot water, breakfast for two and wi-fi. The room was very nicely appointed, the best we'd had in Bali so far. We later discovered the wi-fi didn't work but no matter, we had a great time without it.

And you just couldn't beat the view from our window!

Our host gave us information on a 2-hour rice paddy loop walk, also pointing out that one side of the loop was in fact much more scenic than the other. We set off thinking we'd do the loop anyway but just a few minutes into it we'd already decided we didn't want to miss the same magnificent scenery going in the other direction! We were charged a nominal fee of IDR5,000 each for entry to the trail ... only a few steps from our room. Looking back at the homestay, our room (one of only four) is the one on the far right of the building, the small family restaurant on the left.

These are young rice shoots ready for planting.

It's not unusual to see young children riding motorbikes in Bali, even in major cities in the busiest of traffic. In this case, they were also carrying sharp scythes! We thought these three boys to be aged about ten years old.

The pathway into the forest above marked the halfway point. We deviated from it to discover a deserted temple in the overgrown jungle. Or at least, it was deserted when we were there.

We've seen people using these leaves as umbrellas!

Exiting the jungle to return the same way we came, the sun peeked out from the clouds and lit up the rice fields beautifully.

And then it was gone for the day.

The walk took us longer than two hours because we'd stop every few steps to take photos. We passed very few tourists on the trail, perhaps no more than six altogether. After we freshened up for dinner and walked the road further into town to find a restaurant, it slowly dawned on us that we may be the only overnight guests in Jatiluwih that night.

The first clue was that we appeared to be the only westerners in town, and the second was that all the restaurants were closed. Apparently they only stay open until all the day-trippers leave. So it was back to our own homestay where the host cooked us a delicious dinner. We were also treated to a performance of traditional Balinese dance by their 9-year old daughter, Yande.

Around six in the morning we were awakened by the brightest of colour lighting up our room. The sunrise was stunning and we decided to go for an early morning walk.

This is the main street running through town. We really appreciated that all the buildings were on one side of it, to allow for an unobstructed view on the other. Amazingly, we were indeed the only tourists in town and it was wonderful to have it all to ourselves!

We walked the other side of the loop and passed many farmers on their way to work -

Imagine this as a little hillside retreat!

If only we could have stayed a week! For sure, this fabulous place will be in our hearts forever!

Note on current exchange rate: US$1.00 is about Indonesian Rupiah IDR12,160 is about ZAR10.60

A flat tire, a long ride ... and Danau Bratan Lakeside Temple (Bali)

2014-02-05T05:01:00.001-08:00

After almost two full days of rest and relaxation in Amed we were ready to continue exploring. We followed the road along the coast finding it in surprisingly good condition. However, within an hour of starting out a flat tire forced us to stop on the side of the road! Since we were between villages we decided the best course of action would be for me to stay with the bike and Dennis to go in search of the next scooter repair shop. We'd noticed they occur at regular intervals.

I waited patiently; several people passed by with curious stares but no-one stopped to see if I needed any assistance. In the meantime, after talking to three or four people, Dennis came across a very nice man who immediately jumped in to help when he heard the problem. In an effort to reduce the weight on our flat tire, he rode our bike to the next repair shop and let us ride his, with our luggage. We were exceptionally grateful for the ride.

Two kilometers down the road is not that far unless you're pushing a scooter with a flat tire! Our kind local had driven our bike very slowly and carefully, with the utmost consideration to possible further damage. He also set us up with the mechanic at the repair shop, where no English was spoken. Luckily for us it was just the inner tube that needed to be replaced; a one hour delay and we were on our way again! Thanks to the friendly Balinese, this experience was a good one.

We stopped to take a good look at this rambutan tree, the first we've ever seen. We'd been buying clusters of rambutans from the supermarket so it was great to see them growing wild.

The coastal road doesn't have many hotels or restaurants. We passed several villages offering nothing but small roadside snack shacks. After three hours on the bike plus the one hour delay we were starving! Finally, the nice ocean-view restaurant we'd been expecting to see, then just hoping to see, came into view. We breezed past it, screeched to a halt and burned a 'U'y'.

We were getting close to a big city and the restaurant was part of a small boutique hotel. The meal was excellent! At the last minute I remembered to take a photo, too late for all my chicken satays to be on the plate. This is 'Mie Goreng' which basically means fried noodles. You can choose to add chicken, pork or shrimp. The over-hard fried egg on top is a typical addition to this dish.

During our late lunch we decided just to make it a really long travel day, skipping the extra night on the coast that we'd sort of planned on. We weren't very impressed with the northeast coast and the kind of accommodation we were looking for appeared severely limited. After arriving in the big city of Singaraja we turned inland to the town of Bedugul and Lake Bratan.

Going up the mountain was a nightmare of traffic on a tiny, twisty, potholed road. It took us more than an hour to travel 30km's (about 19 miles). By the time we reached the top we were ready to call it a day. Thank goodness that was behind us! The light fading, we checked out a couple of home stays and decided on one that was a little less personal than our previous choices.

There were perhaps thirty rooms for rent and we looked at about five different rooms before settling on one. They all felt damp and smelled musty though it was clear the building was new. The weather had lots to do with it; the fog had rolled in and there was a decided chill in the air, typical for this time of year. We went to a restaurant nearby for dinner and turned in early.

In the end it was a good stay, IDR150,000/night (about US$12.50/night) including private bathroom with lovely hot shower and a simple breakfast for two. No wi-fi. In the morning it felt cool, raining on and off. We donned our rain ponchos and set off to see Pura Ulun Danau Bratan or simply, the Lakeside Temple. This is my favorite temple in Bali; it has such a magical mystical quality.

The flowers were plentiful and beautiful! Bali's National Botanical Garden is in this area but we didn't want to spend a lot of time walking in the rain so we gave it a miss.

These people spilled out of the main temple after receiving a blessing from a priest.

Temple detail - Dennis strikes a pose in his rain poncho.

This photo is especially for Oliver!

Walking around the temple grounds was very peaceful, albeit a little wet.

At the vendor stalls outside the temple we found some dried jack fruit for sale. Of course, we couldn't resist trying some. Delicious! Jack fruit trees seem to grow everywhere here and now we really can't wait to try the fresh fruit! We think it may be related to the Durian. Please refer to the Gunung Kawi post for a picture of Dennis next to a Jack fruit tree.

Note on current exchange rate: US$1.00 is about Indonesian Rupiah IDR12,160 is about ZAR10.60

[INSERT: A Real-time Post]

2014-01-29T08:57:00.002-08:00

There are a few blog posts I need to make to close the time gap between the previous post and this one, a whole country's worth! But a real-time post will paint a real-time picture. Here is our reality right now: I am sick, I have been for a few days, and we are both having to deal with it. I'm tired but am having trouble sleeping due to a persistent cough. The effort to speak is exhausting and today I finally lost my voice. I quite literally haven't been able to smile without also feeling pain since Friday last week, so my usual optimism and sunny nature feels depressed.

Our series of unfortunate events, actually mine, began exactly two weeks ago with a teeny tiny motorbike accident. This happened on the very last day of our road trip around Bali, at the very last possible moment, just as Dennis was parking our rented scooter in a narrow alley on our return to Ubud. He pulled in too close to an adjacent bike and the top of my left foot was gouged by a deep scratch about 3-inches long. In retrospect, given the crazy driving techniques and safety violations of the Balinese, how we managed without injury up to this point is pretty amazing.

Later that same day, my foot iced and elevated, I discovered that my iPad had run out of memory to download any new photos. The search for a reasonable solution over the last two weeks has been frustrating to say the least. In between our travel commitments, unreliable and/or slow wi-fi (mostly non-existent) and emails to my tech savvy brother, I've come to the conclusion that there really isn't one. Unless of course, you're connected to a reliable and speedy wi-fi source! Distracted by this problem and figuring a work-around has meant my blog posts have slowed down, though more recently I just haven't had the energy to work on any.

Last week, Friday dawned bright and beautiful at the 'Hundred Islands National Park' in the Philippines; a great day for island hopping. However, hurrying to the bangka (boat) I tripped over a rope and fell face first; crashing hard onto the unforgiving cement! For a few seconds, I lay there in shock as the damage slowly registered. Within a couple more seconds Dennis, and at least three other pairs of hands, had rushed to my side to help me up. I admit to making some weird sounds. Glasses askew (amazingly not even scratched!) and blood pouring down my face, I was utterly frightened that I was going to lose some teeth. Within minutes, our Filipino host and friend - Ronnie, was rushing me in his van to a local dentist.

After careful examination and discussion, the dentist advised immediately pushing my front tooth back into place. The force of the fall had pushed one of them backwards into my mouth. I was able to tolerate the pain and walked away with a few painkillers and a week's supply of antibiotics. I was shaken by the experience but determined it wouldn't sabotage the effort our group had made to come and see this beautiful area. With my well-being at the forefront of everyone's mind, we still managed to enjoy the rest of the day as planned.

I surprised everyone, including myself, by sleeping most of Saturday and Sunday. During my waking moments I hobbled around the house (both knees were also badly hurt), my whole body feeling bruised, and of course, finding it difficult to eat anything. The damage to my front tooth aside, my swollen upper lip and badly grazed skin meant I couldn't smile or open wide. The antibiotics were also upsetting my tummy and on the whole I felt I'd been beaten up. I think the impact of the fall was far greater than any of us had realized.

Though I briefly felt better on Monday, I believe the travel day on Tuesday set me back again. Also, after a dentist appointment in Bangkok today (which we'd set up from the States more than a month ago) my fear that all is not well with my front tooth was confirmed. At some point over the weekend I'd noticed an abscess forming but had crossed my fingers and hoped it would go away. No such luck! The infection means I need a root canal as soon as possible. Fortunately there is an opening this Friday; the day my antibiotic course ends and the day before we fly to Cambodia! Hopefully I will feel much better by then.

There's a perfect word in Afrikaans to describe exactly how I'm feeling right now: gatvol! I don't know that there's an English equivalent that so perfectly encapsulates the upper limit to my tolerance level. Please, some sympathy hugs would be lovely ... it's time to heal. :-)

Aah, Amed ... (Bali)

2014-01-21T06:35:00.000-08:00

Amed is the collective name for a number of small sleepy fishing villages on the east coast of Bali. The area is known for good snorkeling and diving as well as for its black sand beaches. It was a relatively easy 2-hour ride from Sideman including stops for photos. We followed the contours of Mt. Agung, admiring the mountainous scenery and cornfields along the way.

Through the gates to a new province -

Mmm, a diver ... definitely a good sign we were headed in the right direction! Our luggage for the week is all on the bike, the 125cc motor strong enough to carry the weight and take the hills!

Our guidebook recommended the Sunrise Homestay in the village of Jemeluk.

With the sound of the ocean already lulling our senses, we accepted an upstairs room without hesitation; IDR200,000 (about US$16) including private bathroom, breakfast for two and wi-fi. There was no hot water but considering the temperature, this was more of a plus than a negative. The lovely Balinese family lives downstairs and they have a total of six rooms available for rent.

The view from our balcony ... aah, it felt good to be here! And we were the only guests!

Seated at our favourite warung (restaurant) we watched the local fishermen handle the jukungs lined up on the beach. Jukung is the Balinese name for this type of boat.

Having come in to deliver their morning catch, they were ready to head out to sea again. The timing was perfect to sit and watch them help each other relaunch their jukungs. It was interesting to note that none of them wore shoes. As we'd discovered, the black sand beach is in fact lots of small pebbles and piping hot!

This is a great shot showing the narrow body of the jukung.

Hanging out just before 'take-off'. Typically two to a boat.

This gentleman was giving his jukung an overhaul.

This is what he wants it to look like ... typical sunhat hanging on the right.

This little boy was fishing with extraordinary balance, using only twine - no pole.

Overlooking the village of Jemeluk - the water looked so inviting!

We could see where we were staying quite easily. Sunrise Homestay occupies one of the largest buildings on the beach - centered in the photo below.

Close-up view also showing part of the family temple built on the roof. This is a typical feature of a Balinese family compound and it is visited on a daily basis to make offerings.

While Dennis went snorkeling I relaxed in a beachside café, enjoying the cool breeze and several fresh fruit juices. It was an extremely pleasant environment in which to catch up on my blog posts and I felt very happy we'd decided to stay for two nights. Dennis reports that the snorkeling was good, though not the best, and he saw lots of different brightly-coloured fish.

We couldn't resist waking up early to watch the sunrise from our balcony - morning # 1.

- and morning # 2.

Note on current exchange rate: US$1.00 is about Indonesian Rupiah IDR12,160 is about ZAR10.60

A Sweet Stay in Sideman! (Bali)

2014-01-15T02:10:00.003-08:00

Sideman, pronounced like cinnamon, is known for its rice terraces as well as its deep spiritual nature. Logistically it also made a good overnight stop for us, on the way to the east coast of Bali. We rode from Ubud for about three hours on narrow twisty roads to reach the small town, stopping only to ask for directions. Signs are hit and miss here, and once or twice we had to turn around and retrace our steps.

We were really interested in trying homestays on this trip. A homestay involves staying with a Balinese family in their compound. We liked the idea not only for the experience but also because it was a way of making sure our tourist dollars were going directly into the pockets of the Balinese locals. Most homestays are not advertised online but we'd read that Sideman had several. We knew we'd made the right choice as we approached the town and the scenery looked like this:

As a basis for comparison we stopped at this house on the hill. For sure, you could get a luxurious room with an incredible view for only IDR500,000/night. But the only Balinese we saw were clearly employees and that wasn't the atmosphere we were after. We found out later that this business is owned by a Dutch family. Continuing down the road, a bright yellow sign beckoned.

A Sweet Homestay was reached by a narrow alleyway; though we knew it wouldn't have a view that didn't matter to us. We'd be out exploring until it got dark and who can see a view after that anyway? Right away we got a good vibe. An older Balinese gentleman stood up the moment we rode in and introduced himself in broken English and a big smile. He showed us a room, wrote down a price and we accepted all within the space of five minutes.

As you can see, it had just rained - we actually arrived in the rain - which probably also helped us to make a quick decision. But instinctively we knew it was the right one.

Our room, for IDR150,000/night (about US$12.50/night), included breakfast for two, a private bathroom and hot water. No wi-fi or a/c but we didn't need them.

Breakfast was served in the restaurant consisting of two tables. We also ate dinner here because it was such a convenient option. We pre-ordered from their menu so that they could make the necessary purchases in order to make it fresh, preparing it only when we were ready to eat. With all that settled we could leisurely explore the area and find a late lunch in town.

As it happened this was the first thing we saw in the way of food for sale. With our tummies growling loudly we said, "Two, please", not having the least idea what we'd just ordered!

It was a soup with funny things in it. Since trying it we've noticed 'Bakso Ayam' listed as an option at several eateries but we still don't know exactly what's in it. We think the pale meatballs are pork-based; the largest meatball had a hard-boiled egg inside it. The white bits are pounded rice, and there were identifiable vegetables. Other than that, it's a mystery! Served hot, it was spicy and delicious and we ate/drank every last drop! IDR14,000 for two servings.

We ate on the side of the road, comfortably seated on concrete slabs no more than three feet from passing traffic! When we handed back our clean dishes we were rewarded with the biggest smile ever! With full tummies we set off to explore the area. Sideman is closer to the mountains than the Ceking rice terraces but it's still lush and tropical.

We found out that under the brown, dried and harvested rice stalks were sweet potatoes and chili plant seedlings. Rice is planted in between these rows.

Mt. Agung, an active volcano, presides over the fertile valley -

The intensity of colour is incredible -

The following morning we were treated to a special Indonesian breakfast; pounded rice with palm sugar and coconut. There are three different items on the plate but every one of them is pounded rice. The small triangles have also been wrapped in banana leaves. Served cold, this was an amazing treat - very sweet and tasty!

In the morning we learned that the Wayans have worked in the hotel industry and it definitely shows. Mr. Wayan runs the homestay and competently does all the cooking. Mrs. Wayan still works as a massage therapist for a spa nearby as well as offering her services to staying guests once she returns home at night. Manis, Mr Wayan's father also helps to run the family business.

Thank you Wayan, Wayan and Manis for the sweetest sweet home stay!

Note on current exchange rate: US$1.00 is about Indonesian Rupiah IDR12,160 is about ZAR10.60

Gunung Kawi and Tirtha Empul (Bali)

2014-01-12T18:06:00.000-08:00

We're getting to know everyone who lives in the area near us and Mr. Chu, a 76-year old Chinese man who had lived in the United States for thirty years, invited us and our neighbours to dinner one evening. He strongly suggested we don't miss the archeological site of Gunung Kawi. We are thankful for that, besides for the opportunity to get to know him better.

Gunung Kawi was a day trip north from Ubud to a town called Tampaksiring. Despite its size Ubud has only one traffic light. We pulled off as it turned red to take a photo of this beautiful statue.

It was pretty straightforward to get to Tampaksiring and once there a large sign directed us to the site. (Straightforward and signs are atypical Bali.) It was immediately apparent why not many tourists visit it; the streets are very narrow and there is absolutely no way a tour bus could get anywhere close enough to the entrance, even a car would have trouble. We love our scooter!

It has been concluded that Gunung Kawi is the shrine of King Udayana and his two sons, dating back to the eleventh-century. There are two temples separated by a river. Both have inscriptions that show the larger temple was for King Udayana and the smaller for two of his sons, Marakata and Wungsu. These sons also became Balinese kings, succeeding each other upon death. Here I am on the bridge over the Pakerisan River with King Udayana's temple behind me.

This is the close-up view. King Udayana has been enshrined in this temple -

And his sons have been enshrined in this temple across the river. It's a jungle here and must take a lot of upkeep. It was peaceful walking around and we only saw a few other people.

Gunung Kawi is also a centre of spiritual and religious training. However, at the present time there is some construction going on and we didn't see anyone who appeared to be in training.

This lizard slowed down when he realized we weren't going to chase him.

Enormous Jack fruit growing wild. We'll have to try this some time.

Tirtha Empul was a short ride away from Gunung Kawi but it was a different experience altogether. A large parking lot accommodated tour buses and cars and we were directed through a gamut of craft stalls to get to the exit. It was still lovely to see the beauty of the old temple and we didn't exactly have to battle crowds. A lot of tourists as well as Balinese nationals make the pilgrimage to give offerings and ask for blessings under the flow of pure water which bubbles up from an underground spring. The water is considered holy.

Here is the pool where people immerse themselves while still clothed, also wearing a sarong and sash. The ritual is to stop at each fountain, make an offering, request a blessing and receive it by immersing oneself under the flowing water.

This young girl had obviously been here before. Offerings are small baskets made from palm fronds and filled with flowers and grains of rice. An incense stick seems to be an optional extra.

This Balinese family was clearly happy to be making the journey. The wife holds incense sticks and the offerings, one for each fountain, are in the bag. We wondered about the significance of the baby's head being shaven and discovered another Balinese ritual. They're shaved at the ages of 6-months and 1-year old, the reason being simply to encourage a thick head of hair as they grow up.

The sacred gates leading to the source of the pure water.

The pool at the source of the pure spring water. We could see it bubbling up from the side closest to the temple building. It appeared to be a high volume underground spring.

Temple detail, beautiful artistry.

On our way home we felt impelled to stop for these rice paddies just on the eastern outskirts of Ubud. The thing that makes them different from any others we've seen are the numerous mini temples dotting each paddy. It was a gorgeous day!

After eight days in Ubud we're heading out to explore more of Bali. Mr. Chu has kindly agreed to let us stash our biggest backpack at his house so we can travel extra light. We've rented the scooter for another week and playing it by ear with no accommodation booked. We're aiming to see Sideman, Amed, the north coast and Lake Bratan before returning to Ubud for one last night.

Note on current exchange rate: US$1.00 is about Indonesian Rupiah IDR12,160 is about ZAR10.60

A quiet rice paddy walk in central Ubud! (Bali)

2014-01-12T02:09:00.000-08:00

This was a surprising find - a quiet walk in the middle of bustling noisy crowded Ubud. We actually found it the very first day we explored, thanks to directions from a fellow South African whom we randomly bumped into on the busy street. Known as the rice paddy walk, I'm so glad we had the time to go back for lunch and this time bring the camera. It's such a contrast from the really busy main street; amazing to think it's only a minute away ... on foot!

Smaller pathways lead off to lovely houses; we believe they are mostly holiday accommodation rentals. The storm cloud above this one is typical of Bali weather during the rainy season. Sun and rain within minutes of each other but in this case we never even saw the rain!

This particular house was one of our favourites.

Along the walk are a few artisan craft shops, spas, restaurants and coffee shops.

We had a nice lunch with our neighbour friends at an organic restaurant amidst the rice paddies.

And this white tented roof restaurant is our excuse to find the time to go back once more!

Talking about food reminds me to mention that one of that best meals we've had comes from a street hawker. He's conveniently located a few minutes down the road from our studio but that isn't the reason we've been back twice. We love the flavour of the sauce he uses on the grilled chicken, we love his personality and we love the careful way his wife packages up all the trimmings in separate bags. Here's our dinner on the grill.

And back at home we have a yummy meal to dig into! Total price? IDR35,000 (about US$3).

Along with a relaxing beer purchased earlier from the supermarket to wash it all down!

Note on current exchange rate: US$1.00 is about Indonesian Rupiah IDR12,160 is about ZAR10.60

Moon Temple and Yeh Pulu (Bali)

2014-01-11T23:25:00.000-08:00

Just on the outskirts of Ubud are two lesser-known and therefore uncrowded, hidden treasures. The first of these, the Pura Penataran Sasih or Moon Temple, is known for housing one of the most important Bronze-Age antiques in Indonesia, an ancient ornate bronze kettle drum allegedly 2,300-years old. Highly valued, considered sacred, it is the largest in Southeast Asia. It's kept high above the ground but I gave my best attempt at a photo.

It was most peaceful walking around the temple complex all by ourselves and it was quite a treat to see Dennis in a sarong! This is the first of many more occasions.

When entering a temple it's necessary for ones shoulders and legs to be covered and to wear a sash around the waist. Every temple seems to have a supply of sarongs and sashes that can be borrowed for a small donation. The sarong Dennis is wearing was supplied by our airbnb host and I have my own lovely lightweight sarong that is versatile and perfect for traveling!

Oops, Dennis is showing some leg -

The second hidden treasure is the Yeh Pulu fourteenth-century rock-cut carvings. They have been chipped away from a cliff face amid rice fields. The story of the carvings is uncertain but are in great condition for their age. Once again, at least on this particular day, we were the only ones who cared to visit. We took our time to examine the reliefs.

Yes, they were literally next to rice fields -

Dennis receives a blessing and sprinkle of holy water. It was my turn next.

Again, it was so peaceful here by ourselves.

Depicting a successful wild boar hunt -

Interestingly, this made us realize we have not yet seen a horse in Bali - only statues of horses.

Note on current exchange rate: US$1.00 is about Indonesian Rupiah IDR12,160 is about ZAR10.60

Indulgences and more in Ubud! (Bali)

2014-01-11T21:55:00.001-08:00

With as many spas and salons offering all sorts of massages at really great rates it wasn't long before we started taking note of various recommendations. Our neighbours told us about a truly unique experience. The Boreh Pijat Salon & Sauna is owned by a traditional Balinese healer named Ketut Jaya. The signature treatment incorporates a 1-hour plus healing massage, a herbal scrub called Boreh, a herbal tonic and the use of a sauna for a full body work up and detoxification.

Our afternoon appointment was perfect. Ketut worked on Dennis, a Balinese woman on me. Side by side, we lay on a covered bamboo mat platform that was open to the garden. The treatments take place in the family compound; background noises included roosters crowing, children playing and other family members chatting and going about their business. This is typical of an authentic tradition and only served to increase our enjoyment of the whole experience.

After two and a half hours of being utterly pampered we felt so relaxed we just wanted to have a nap! What a fabulous time for only IDR326,000 (about US$27) and yes, that was for BOTH of us!

Later on, feeling refreshed we were ready to see what central Ubud was like at night. Up to this point we'd resisted riding the scooter after dark other than Dennis making short solo trips to buy dinner. The first noticeable difference was the reduction in traffic. We made it all the way down the main street without having to stop and wait even once. We parked the bike and within a few minutes had spontaneously decided to seize the moment and watch a traditional Balinese dance show. The stage was open-air outside a temple, a rich lustrous backdrop.

The accompanying music ensemble, perhaps forty women, played mostly percussion-type instruments that created a pleasant sound totally unfamiliar to our ears. I can't really say that we could tell the difference between one piece of music and the next but the talented dancers were exceptionally good in hitting the key notes with their gestures, head and eye-jerking movements. It was amazing to watch, especially as all the seats were close to the stage.

After the show we found a quiet garden restaurant down a small street and had a wonderful meal to cap our wonderful day. It was surprising that, upon leaving the restaurant around 10pm, the streets were almost deserted. We know Ubud is considered the cultural capital of Bali but we had assumed with as many tourists as there are in town, there would also be a nightlife scene.

The following evening we saw a completely different show after a scrumptious Indonesian dinner, served tapas-style on banana leaves. This is one of the tastiest meals we've had in Ubud and we're hoping there'll be time to eat there again, perhaps after the next massage we're promising ourselves. The restaurant, 'biah biah' was on a small street and looked across at a family temple. Dennis, who has been keeping track of beer prices, noted that this was the cheapest large 660ml Bintang at a restaurant so far - IDR28,000 (about US$2.30).

The dance show was called the Kecuk Dance and took place inside a temple, covered but open on three sides. The show features a large group of men wearing checkered sarongs and chanting "ka-chuk, ka-chuk, ka-chuk ..." over and over and over with a few variants and nuances. The sound of so many male voices in unison has a sonorous timbre that reaches ones inner depths. They went non-stop for 40-minutes and soon after started on the next piece. It was incredible.

The story behind the dance is the battle between Sugriwa, the King of the Monkeys and his brother Subali over the goddess Tara. It is derived from the sacred Hindu Ramayana text. The dance troupe members imitate our primate ancestors and either sit or scurry around crouched down on their hands and feet, chanting all the while. Their shoulders move up and down in time with the chant and the resemblance to a troupe of monkeys is uncanny.

The finale to the show was a crazy fire dance. To the background chant an animated male dancer went into a trance and walked over the hot coals of coconut husks. Not just once but several times, kicking them this way and that and not seeming to feel anything. When at last the coals were only glowing faintly, he dropped down and lay still until being revived with holy water and a blessing. The show lasted just over an hour and we had been thoroughly entertained. Once again our seats were up close and personal, only a few feet behind the chanting men. Great show!

Note on current exchange rate: US$1.00 is about Indonesian Rupiah IDR12,160 is about ZAR10.60

A Drive in the Countryside (Bali)

2014-01-09T06:29:00.001-08:00

With our confidence growing in our abilities on the scooter we wanted to take a longer trip. We looked at the map, chose a road and off we went! Bali is such an incredible visual feast; we blasted through the appetizer, lingered over the main course and ended our day with a sweet dessert! Can you tell we're also being spoiled with tasty food ... the next meal is never far from our minds! Ubud itself is very busy and we looked forward to getting out of town. Our appetizer began with the outskirts of Ubud, artisan workshops lining the street - this is the place to come to furnish a home. Beautiful works of art as practical pieces of furniture. But still dodging heavy traffic we whizzed on by.

After about an hour it was time for a butt break - we're still getting used to sitting on a motorbike for long periods at a time. Spotting a little restaurant we pulled off and walked down a few stairs. The rice terrace view opened up before us and we were completely enthralled. Pinch me, are we really here? We enjoyed a relaxing drink and then decided to see a little more on foot.

With every step we took the view just got better and better. There were a few craft stalls selling colourful blankets, quilts and sarongs, amongst many other things.

The lush green rice terraces of Ceking -

A short while later we spied the perfect table for lunch -

- that cost less than US$10 but the view was priceless!

This friendly worker kindly posed for a photo -

Back on the scooter and further inland we went. The temperature dropped as we gained in altitude but it was still very pleasant. We passed through several small little towns and came across this Hindu wedding ceremony about to begin. Not only were we invited to watch the ceremony, we were also invited to join in the celebrations taking place over the next two days!

The actual ceremony took place outside the temple and on the main road through town.

It started to rain soon thereafter.

And at the end of the ceremony it stopped raining. Good blessings on the marriage?

Onward and upward ... I whispered in Dennis's ear, "Oh, that place looks interesting - it has free testing coffee"! (I'm quoting verbatim.) It was a coffee plantation whose specialty is Luwak coffee, considered by some to be the finest coffee in the world! We were assigned a personal guide to give us a tour that ended in a tasting. The luwak is a small nocturnal animal, like a civet or possibly a possum. It eats the arabica coffee beans but doesn't digest them; hence they come out whole on the other end. These droppings are collected and processed, the arabica beans now containing additional enzymes that alter the taste of the coffee, making it smoother and richer. We would have to say we agree!

This gorgeous flower, growing everywhere on the plantation is from the ginger plant. The Balinese use the stem of the plant, rather than the root, for flavouring their food and teas.

Heading home -

Note on current exchange rate: US$1.00 is about Indonesian Rupiah IDR12,160 is about ZAR10.60

Antics in the Monkey Forest (Ubud, Bali)

2014-01-05T22:24:00.000-08:00

Our outing to the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary proved most enjoyable. There are about 560 Balinese macaques that currently reside in the forest, separated into three main social groups. Though the monkeys are wild they are obviously very used to people being around, accepting food such as bananas and papayas and climbing on shoulders to gain a different perspective. It became apparent very quickly that the monkeys were really attracted to Dennis (who isn't?) so I manned the camera to get a ton of cute candid shots! It's a lot funnier to view them all so I decided not to try and pick out the best picture.

Intricate stone carvings covered in moss ... hear no evil, see no evil and speak no evil -

Soft little hands and feet, cute little faces, intelligent eyes - we loved them!

Dennis put his hands on his hips, a strategic move to push up his attractiveness factor. But we weren't expecting any monkeys to snuggle on the inside of the triangle it created!

The Holy Monkey Temples were built during the mid-11th century. Below is the Pura Dalem Agung Temple. This photo was taken when it was bucketing down with rain. We ended up getting soaked but quickly dried off when it cleared up about two hours later.

Dennis had an amazing interaction with a monkey at this temple - the full anti-flea treatment!

The entrance fee to this beautiful and magical place was IDR20,000 each, or about US$1.65 each!

Note on current exchange rate: US$1.00 is about Indonesian Rupiah IDR12,160 is about ZAR10.60

Bali - First Impressions

2014-01-04T05:33:00.001-08:00

After a smooth two and a half hour flight from Singapore, we landed at Denpasar International Airport at 7pm on the 2nd of January. The VOA (Visa On Arrival) service was quick and easy, no questions asked, please pay cash in any currency you choose. We handed over US$50.00 for the two of us, allowing us to stay for up to 30 days. Next was immigration and by the time we were done with that our one checked bag was on the carousel ready for collection. Going through customs was a slow experience as they scan all the luggage even if you have nothing to declare.

The taxi driver we'd arranged through our airbnb host was waiting for us, hopefully holding up a handwritten sign that said "DENNIS & KAREN". We sighed in relief - our flight had been delayed by half an hour and processing had taken just over another hour. Turned out he'd been waiting for us for two hours - we were impressed that he'd stuck around! We had about a 2-hour drive ahead of us, inland to Ubud. The traffic was horrendous getting out of the airport and through Denpasar; stop and go a few feet, stop and go a few feet - cars and scooters vying for position and passing within a hair of each other. We were very thankful that our driver was both skilful and cheerful!

It was dark so we couldn't see any of the scenery we passed. It felt like there was never an end to Denpasar and a start to Ubud, other than the roads narrowed and deteriorated. Our driver brought us directly to the studio and we paid him IDR350,000 - the equivalent of about US$29, for almost six hours of his time and a ride 2-hours long! The studio had a musty smell and for a while we weren't sure we'd made the right choice. Instead of thinking about it we dropped our bags and went across the street for a late dinner. We shared a potato and smoked cheese pizza and not having eaten anything for hours, it was one of the best pizzas we'd had in ages!

In the morning we made our tea and coffee and sat outside on the patio. Quietly pondering our new surroundings we had the strange feeling we'd been transported to another world. Our little studio (# 4) consists of a bedroom that includes a desk and more storage space than we need. The bathroom is behind the bedroom, perhaps a third the size of the bedroom. But the toilet is different in that it doesn't have a flush mechanism. One has to manually scoop water from a bucket to 'flush' the toilet. Also in the bathroom is our drinking water supply, which has been blessed, as well as crockery and cutlery. The shared kitchen (with the studio next door) is outside on the patio, consisting of one gas hotplate, a large fridge and pots and pans of varying sizes.

Our kind neighbours soon appeared and offered us maps, information, bananas and eggs. All very welcome! Then later, when they overheard us asking our host for matches, promptly appeared with an extra box. Incense had been provided so we immediately lit a stick and that took care of the musty smell. After all, it is the rainy season and we had come to realize that the pervasive damp smell infuses almost everything - our towels and bed linens smelled fresh. We also arranged a scooter rental; we're still reeling from the price - IDR300,000 for a week. That's the equivalent of about US$25 ... for a whole week!!! Dennis assured me he knows how to ride a motorbike, though in the whole time I've known him (more than 16 years) I've never seen him on one. I let him have a few go-rounds on his own first before we hit the road together.

It's a little unnerving being on the back of a scooter, i.e. not in control, riding on unfamiliar narrow and potholed roads. We joined several other scooters, often riding pack-like to get to the heart of town. Sometimes I thought we were on a one-way street, then seconds later we'd all weave back to the right side (which is the left side here) to make way for an oncoming car! Scooters outnumber cars at least ten to one, perhaps more ... probably more. But renting it was really a no-brainer; we discovered we're a good 10-minute drive from the center of town and it's going to take us to a lot of other places. You just can't beat the daily rental of about US$3.50!

I deliberately left my camera behind when we went out today. I wanted to absorb the feel of this new place without the distraction of taking photos. Our initial impression of Ubud: it's amazing! So different to anything we've seen before; a mix of old and new, Balinese and western, busy and vibrant on the main street but only a few minutes walk away rice paddies surrounded us, derelict buildings overgrown with lush vegetation, incredibly beautiful homes made of rich wood and stone, ornate temples and shrines abound, intricate stone carvings covered in moss ... I could go on and on but I'm sure you'd like to see some photos! The camera will come with me next time!

Note on current exchange rate: US$1.00 is about Indonesian Rupiah IDR12,160 is about ZAR10.60

Changi International Airport (Singapore)

2014-01-04T05:09:00.003-08:00

What to say? Try to arrange a late flight and check in as early as you can! Or, if you're lucky to have this airport as a layover, try to make it as long a layover as possible! This is an airport that caters to all your needs and more. Besides the usual retail, service and food outlets they also offer things like free movies, gaming stations, social network activities, interactive e-postcard booths and themed gardens. If you're in transit for more than five hours, the free 2-hour guided tours of Singapore are an amazing option. Or if you're tired, you could head to one of the free snooze chairs ergonomically designed and located in the quietest areas of the airport. For a nominal fee there is a rooftop swimming pool, multiple gyms and laundry services. Wow!

We checked in about four and a half hours prior to our scheduled flight. Before we headed through security we stopped to check out the 'Kinetic Rain' artwork in the public area. The teardrops move in patterns controlled by a software program. It's spellbinding to watch and there were a lot of oohs and aahs from the children in the audience. I'm afraid the static photos hardly do it justice.

Once we'd gone through security and immigration we were free to move about all three terminals via the Skytrain. Each terminal has something special to offer. Because it was right in front of us as we came through security we started by playing at the social 'tree'. Here we could choose a background for a photo, e-mail it to friends and family or share it on facebook.

After that little bit of playful fun we went in search of the orchid garden.

Dennis sat and rested, watching the Koi in the pond, while I took a few photos of these gorgeous flowers. Singapore is famous for its orchids.

The Skytrain left every couple of minutes and only took a couple of minutes between each terminal. This was taken through the window, terminal 2 on the right.

The highlight of our visit to Changi Airport was definitely the butterfly garden.

We thought these butterflies were pretty amazing. They looked just like leaves with their wings closed but had beautiful irridescent blue and orange colouring when open.

Caught this guy admiring his reflection in the glass!

Hard to believe all the photos in this post were taken inside an airport! All too sooon it was time to make our way to the boarding gate and catch our flight to Denpasar, Bali.

New Year's Eve in Singapore!

2014-01-04T04:36:00.000-08:00

Fabulous Singapore continued to amaze as we joined in the city's New Year's Eve celebrations. We started our evening low-key by going to a movie, 'The Secret Life of Walter Mitty'. Needless to say, Singapore has tons of movie theatres and, as far as we can tell, they're mostly showing the latest releases from the States and from China. We loved this movie; it's ultimately a romance but with the background aspect of an ordinary man leaving his comfort zone to do some extraordinary things. Since this involved spontaneous travel to distant and exotic places we could relate to the thrill he felt, though we'd definitely not consider doing some of the things he did once there!

After the movie we headed to Glutton's Corner, a well-known hawker stand for the most incredibly tasty food and variety of food choices. It's located on the esplanade and faces the water where the fireworks were going to be at midnight. The place was bustling with activity and bursting with the fragrant smells of cooking. Having learned from experience at other hawker stands we perused the various options and then found a place to sit, no easy feat. Dennis went to order what we wanted while I saved our seats and chatted with the other people seated around the table.

Our food choices were absolutely divine! We picked two Indian chicken dishes and shared them; Mee Goreng, a spicy noodle dish and Roti Prata Murtabak, a sort of stuffed pancake that came with a side of curry to dip it in. The two very full plates came to a total of S$17. We're still not sure which of the two we liked best - if only there weren't so many other choices, we'd order exactly the same thing again! For dessert I had a celery and green apple juice, freshly pressed in front of me, no ice or water added. Freshly pressed juice in any combination is available everywhere and is relatively inexpensive.

By the time we finished eating it was about 9pm. We meandered along the waterfront listening to the music from the concert in the stadium nearby, and the chatter of hundreds of voices in high spirits. Everyone was having a good time. We wanted to watch the fireworks from the other side of the bay, under the lotus flower building (The Art & Science Museum), pictured below. Notice the spheres on the water are now blue, they were yellow in the photo above. The colour changed every few minutes and sometimes even took on patterns.

We finally got to our desired location around 10pm, squeezing ourselves in between two families willing to make a little space for us. We were probably amongst the last few who were actually able to secure a sitting postion on the raised wall surrounding the lotus pond, under the lotus building. Two hours passes quickly when you're watching people trying to find themselves a patch of ground to sit on. Eventually the crowd swelled to such an extent that there was nowhere else to sit and even the walkway disappeared. The countdown began and fireworks lit up the sky!

Ten minutes later the show had ended and we all started to move out, much in the way penguins move when they're huddled together against the cold. Waddle, waddle, left - waddle, waddle, right. Move forward a few feet, then stop for an equal amount of time. We could have waited but didn't feel the need to, waddling was all part of the experience! Once inside the mall we made our way to the food 'opera' and sat down to a lovely cup of tea while we waited for the rush on the MRT station to slow down. We made the last train home just before they shut down at 2am. What a wonderful night!

Note on current exchange rate: SGD$1.00 is about US$0.80 is about ZAR8.00

Little India & Arab Street (Singapore)

2014-01-04T03:39:00.000-08:00

We had high hopes for Little India, a culture-specific neighborhood enclave in Singapore, if for nothing other than because we love Indian food. Armed with a restaurant recommendation from a friend we went in search of 'Lagnaa' for a barefoot dining experience. We asked to sit upstairs, glancing around at the full house on the ground floor this is not a well-known option. After being asked to remove our shoes we were shown to an air conditioned room that we had all to ourselves. Once seated on the floor our server presented another dimension to consider.

We hadn't expected to find a spicy challenge; on a scale of one to ten, how hot can you handle it? It was suggested we try the chicken appetizers to determine our 'spicy' level. They come at an 'easy' 1.5 - perhaps a little hotter than anything we usually make and delicious! We decided to make a small jump to level two for the rest of our meal and were glad we hadn't tried to climb higher. Our curries were spicy and flavourful; it was a wonderful meal. A person eating at level three or higher receives a peg on which to write their name and that gets pegged up on the 'wall of fame'. On the scale of one to ten only one peson has made it to a nine and no-one has reached ten! The restaurant has been doing this for more than ten years.

We walked around Little India for a while and with the exception of the restaurant and our experience there, finally declared it a little disappointing. The Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple was hidden under construction scaffolding and the streets were mostly uninteresting and a little run down (below). We decided to walk the fifteen minutes over to the next culture-specific neighbourhood enclave; Arab Street and surrounds.

We had not visited Arab Street on our previous visit and it was a very pleasant surprise, preferring it over Little India and Chinatown. The Sultan Mosque forms the focal point and many of the little streets around it are pedestrian only. It was colourful and lively with lots to look at.

Lots of carpet and light shops -

Quite a few fragrance houses - and that reminds me, the SMELL of Arab Street and surrounds is marvelous! Each shop burns their own incense, near the entrance so that it doesn't overwhelm the shop and at the same time it wafts over passersby, inviting them to come in. We loved it!

Lots and lots of fabric shops, vibrant colours and beautiful textiles -

This tiny street was filled with fascinating shops and eateries -

Like this one, which appealed to our spiritual side but we first noticed the planter boxes (stacked on the left hand side) each filled with a different herb. These are used in the fresh dishes they serve. Too bad we were still stuffed from lunch! But we're impressed with Arab Street and have promised ourselves a return visit in April. This area is a lovely gem in a city of high rises!

Note on current exchange rate: SGD$1.00 is about US$0.80 is about ZAR8.00

Chinatown & Harbour Cruise (Singapore)

2013-12-29T18:56:00.002-08:00

Chinatown:

The last time we went to Chinatown in Singapore it looked just like this - crowded. Yes, noisy too! But, oh so welcoming with the fragrant smell of hundreds of food vendors competing for business. Though strangely enough, food is no longer as cheap here as we remembered it. Our theory is that tourists have driven the prices up. This is one of the largest thriving Chinatowns we've ever visited; it covers two square kilometers and includes a few temples.

With the Chinese New Year celebrations approaching (31 January) almost every shop is selling New Year decorations besides their usual mass-produced bargains. We looked hard but I only found one bargain worth mentioning; six postcards for S$1.00 - at most other places you only get one postcard for that price and sometimes it costs more than that! Certain special people in our lives will understand why this particular bargain made me feel happy. It doesn't take much!

This is the Buddhist's Tooth Relic Temple. Apparently a sacred tooth of the Buddha is kept here and brought out for viewing just once a year, on the first day of the Chinese New Year.

Typical food offerings to the deities. Mmm, wonder who eats all of this? Or even if it is eaten?

I loved some of the architecture and bright colours.

Looking for postcards ...

Imperial Cheng Ho High-Tea Harbour Cruise:

This was another activity we repeated because it left us with such good memories the last time. Once again, we were not disappointed.

The Imperial Cheng Ho, a modern Chinese junk, is designed and built to replicate the imperial splendour of centuries ago. The company offers four harbour cruises a day, but the one we find the most appealing is the afternoon high-tea cruise with a stop at Kusu Island - the same as the one we did 8-years ago. Would we do it again? Yes! We feel it's good value for money (S$34.00 each) for a two and a half hour cruise with as much 'high-tea' as you can eat in the first hour.

The interior of the boat is as ornate as the exterior. Within minutes of sailing the covers are lifted from the finger foods to reveal delicate savoury pastries, crustless sandwiches, petite cakes and mini chocolate eclairs. A line forms quickly but also moves very fast with the help of servers who load you up at the nod of your head. Self-serve hot tea and coffee completes the offering for 'high-tea'. There was an incredible amount of food. In seemingly constant motion, full trays replaced the empty ones until everyone was satiated. The full selection of food remained available until we pulled into our island stop an hour later.

Kusu Island, also known as turtle island, is one of many off Singapore's coast. The colourful temple on the island is known as the Da Bo Gong Temple (God of Prosperity). Da Bo Gong is highly regarded as having the power to confer prosperity, cure disease, calm the sea and avert danger.

We observed this monkey for a while. We know she's well fed, doesn't like people to get too close and she appears to be the only one on the small island.

As we departed Kusu Island we noticed the Singapore Financial District skyline in the background behind the temple. This was about a 45-minute boat ride away.

It was Dennis who noticed the Chinese man riding the chicken, one of the many interesting details on the boat. There is surely a story behind this!

Note on current exchange rate: SGD$1.00 is about US$0.80 is about ZAR8.00

Jurong Bird Park (Singapore)

2013-12-29T00:09:00.002-08:00

This is definitely one of Singapore's highlights, especially for someone not used to seeing an incredible number of tropical birds all at once! The park is located more than an hour away from town but It was very easy to get there. We took the MRT (Mass Rapid Transit train) most of the way and transferred to a local bus for the final 3.3kms (about 2 miles). The whole journey cost less than S$2.00 each. We're really impressed with the quality of public transportation; it's clean, fast and priced in such a way that many locals prefer to use it over walking even a short distance. We opted to get an 'ez-link' card and load it up with cash to cover all our transport costs. Now we can tap on and off trains and buses without worrying about calculating individual fares or buying tickets each time. It's very much like MRT systems around the world except it appears Singapore has taken it one step further; here it can also be used to pay for taxis! Highly efficient.

The entrance fee to the bird park was S$20.00 each, great value for almost six hours of extraordinary entertainment. The aviaries are large, up to two hectares in size and house a number of common as well as endangered species. There's a lot of opportunity for interaction and daily shows to impress one even further. Almost immediately we entered, the mandarin ducks begged to be photographed - they are so attractive.

The pelicans had us in stitches at feeding time, jostling each other for best position.

This guy stood regally above the mayhem.

The crested pigeon is bigger than a chicken!

We learned something new about penguins. The black spots on their tummies are like fingerprints - each and every one is different! Newborn chicks identify their mothers this way, and vice versa.

The macaws are not only beautiful but clever too!

This waterfall is in the largest aviary. You'd think no-one was around but I just got lucky with this shot. The foliage is too dense to spot birds at anything other than close range.

Guinea Fowl. A reminder of home (Africa) - one of my favourite birds but they are so silly!

"Hey dude! Don't you realize there are people watching? Stop mooning them!"

This kingfisher sat perfectly still for me!

The Lory Loft provided plenty of opportunity to get up close and personal. This little Asian boy was enthralled with the birds and very gentle in his approach.

It wasn't long before Dennis had a few friends too!

As for me, this outing produced a couple of close calls; on one occasion a bird wing brushed my cheek as it flew by and on another, bird poop landed on my hat and splashed my t-shirt! Whoa, glad I wore my hat! The park was also filled with beautiful flowers, the precisely intricate orchids never ceasing to catch my attention!

Note on current exchange rate: SGD$1.00 is about US$0.80 is about ZAR8.00

Singapore - First Impressions

2013-12-25T01:05:00.000-08:00

Wow, what a fabulous city! In truth, this is our second impression - we were very impressed by our first visit almost 8-years ago and vowed to return. After a smooth seven and a half hour flight from Tokyo we arrived at Paya Lebar Air Base. It was raining and overcast but the warmth and humidity hit us almost immediately and we couldn't stop grinning. The warm weather is definitely a welcome change! Singapore is the first stop on our tour of Southeast Asia. We'll follow the map above in an anti-clockwise direction, Bangkok becoming a base from which to do some side trips.

Our accommodation in the city is very basic; a quiet, clean and perfectly adequate room that we reserved through the airbnb website. Best of all is the amazing location and warm hospitality of our hosts, John and Flor. Our room is a little oasis in the middle of the city; in an older apartment building only four stories high on a spacious piece of premium land. We're surrounded by ultra modern high rises with minimal green space. Though our room doesn't come with a view, we love sitting on the front patio or in the garden (pictured below). Listening to the birds sing and soaking up the tropical ambiance while having breakfast is a very pleasant way to start each day!

Flor offered us some white dragon fruit for breakfast yesterday. Not quite as sweet as the pink dragon fruit but very refreshing. We love the wide variety of tropical fruit available here.

From the little bit of exploring we've done so far we've really come to appreciate just how convenient our location is. It's only a 10-minute walk to Orchard Street, a 2.2km (about 1.4 miles) commercial main thoroughfare that is the place to be for our Christmas celebrations this year. The sheer number of people is incredible but we've found ourselves more fascinated by the crowds than bothered by them. There is so much to see; the lights, the people, the street performers and food vendors. We walk slowly to make sure we don't miss anything, our heads spinning from side to side to take everything in! It's very easy to lose track of time.

The shopping malls are lined up one after another. Hunger drove us inside to look for a restaurant and more incredulity followed. This mall has an 'express' escalator which takes you four levels underground to the largest 'food court' we've ever seen! Actually calling it a food court is an injustice; here it's more accurately labeled a 'Food Opera'! More on food in a future blog ...

Orchard Street is brilliantly lit up at night ...

Here's a quintessential Singapore view - an ornate temple amidst the high rises!

The Singapore Buddhist Lodge (below) offers free food to anyone who is hungry.

We've done a lot of walking, finding treasures everywhere. For example, deserted parks; havens of peace in a modern busy city ...

... and noticing even the small things - like this beautiful caterpillar!

This was our Christmas tree this year; a delicate pastry drizzled in white chocolate and topped with sprinkles ... but it didn't last long; we ate it! Flor surprised us this morning with a freshly baked, deliciously moist cake which slipped down easily with fruit for a very special Christmas breakfast! Dennis is off to the market while I write this - we're looking forward to a community grill this afternoon. And this evening we'll brave the crowds to watch the grand finale Christmas concert on the ever-festive Orchard Street. We couldn't have hoped for a better day!

Merry Christmas everyone!