Where In The World Is Jason Patrick Irish?

CLOSING TIME!

2012-09-24T08:08:00.002-07:00

LIKE MY TIME HERE IN KOREA, MY TIME UTILIZING THIS BLOG ALSO COMES TO AN END! THANK YOU TO THE THOUSANDS OF FRIENDS, FAMILY AND STRANGERS FROM AROUND THE WORLD WHO HAVE KEPT ME MOTIVATED TO CONTINUE!

BUT DO NOT FEAR BECAUSE EVEN BIGGER AND BETTER THINGS ARE TO COME! I AM ABOUT TO EMBARK ON ANOTHER GREAT JOURNEY AROUND THE WORLD SO WILL BE BRINGING YOU 2 NEW BOGS STARTING OCTOBER 1!

HUCKLES HOLIDAY To share the places and experiences I'm having with you.
BITES AND BEER To share the local street food and beverages I am enjoying with you.

SO PLEASE BECOME A FOLLOWER OF THE NEW SITES AND COME WITH ME ON MY JOURNEY!

THANKS!

Buyeo

2012-09-24T07:45:00.000-07:00

Sometimes it takes a friend moving to an obscure location in order to have reason to visit. Once there however one can truly discover phenomenal things that would be otherwise undiscovered and easily missed. This was just the case for the Korean west coast city of Buyeo another former capital of the Baekje Dynasty established in 18 BC.

Never on a ‘Bucket List’, Buyeo is certainly something not to be missed on a trip to Korea. Upon arrival you instantly get a small town feel that you normally don’t get while visiting typical urbanite locations in Korea. Busosanseong makes the perfect place to start a tour of Buyeo for a morning hike in the mountains in the heart of the city packed full of historical sites. At the top of the mountain is a grand view of the quaint city where the Baengma River carves through it, with a rather dark past where it is said 3000 women jumped to their deaths from the Nakwaam Rock before the Chinese invaded.

Back in the city there are many other points of attraction, from the small but informative Buyeo National Museum, to the extensive Seodong Park, offering additional leisure to the already peaceful and slow paced city. The Gungnamji Pond is certainly the highlight of the park with walkways through seemingly endless lotus filled ponds. Before departing from the tiny intercity bus terminal you can take a glimpse of the tranquil Jeongnisima Temple and its 1500 year old stone pagoda to leave you with some piece of mind before departing the calm historic city and to re-emerge into the hustle and bustle of Korean life.

GONGJU

2012-09-21T17:54:00.001-07:00

When living in a location where rain is so prevalent, many people will cancel outdoor plans and intend on doing it the following week. This is a terrible mind set to fall victim of as it could be raining for weeks on end, while you forget your plans or simply lose interest. Even with the advancing Typhoon Samba, nothing could stop a last minute trip to the former capital of the Baekje Dynasty in Gongju.

The miniscule city of Gongju rests along the banks of the Guemgang River and is engulfed in misty mountains. Adjacent the river is the major tourist attractions starting with Gongsanseong Fortress. The fort is perched on a hill overlooking the city and surrounded by stone walled fortifications towering over the river. With impressive south, east and west gate entry points the fort offers an interesting and at times treacherously slippery walking trail through the rain.

Nearby the fortress rests the Tomb of King Muryeong and his Queen, which were first excavated and researched in 1971. King Muryeong, born in 461AD, was the 25^th king of the Baekje dynasty and helped defend the dynasty and is accredited with significantly increasing trade with China. The inside of the tomb is off limits to visitors and the grassy hills on top resemble obstacles on a golf course, but their historic significance can overshadow the lack luster appearance.

The artifacts from within are now housed in the spacious Gongju National Museum. Such items on display include gold crowns and jewelry, stone and bronze Buddhist sculptures, weapons and other treasures fit to be buried with a king. Even the dreariest of days can be taken advantage of to see and learn new things. A little rain, when used as motivation, can go a long way.

DAEJEON

2012-09-18T10:27:00.000-07:00

For over two years Daejeon has been nothing more than one of the stops along the way from the south up to Seoul. With only weeks left in Korea however it was decided to make a visit to this frequently overlooked metropolis to see if it had anything to offer. As the 5th biggest city in Korea it was once the home of the 1993 World Expo and proved to remain a city with some flare.

As soon as one exits the train station on the left there is a large and bustling traditional market displaying herbal medicine, local produce and an abundance of other sights, sounds and smells. After hopping on a local bus and arriving just outside the city rests Sikjangsan Moutain which offers fantastic hiking trails; traversing streams and at times using ropes to scale muddy slopes. At the top is a majestic view overlooking the whole of the city and nearby Daecheonghosa Lake.

While back in the city on a Saturday evening, they have turned it’s nearly 20 year old World Expo Park into a fully functional city gathering grounds. The area hosts a central concert hall where a track for joyous children on tricycles, dates rocking couple wear can skate hand in hand, parents teach children to ride bicycles, and just casual on lookers can enjoy the fresh air and music.

It is surrounded by an arboretum and lined with a river traced by bicycle paths which is spanned by a unique red white and blue bridge leading to the Expo Tower. It is also flanked by the Government Complex, that although with dull architecture still has countless tennis courts, basketball courts and other sporting facilities free for use. In addition the park offers rides, museums and countless other activities; the perfect way to unwind and embrace the leisure’s of city life.

Daejeon remains a city underrated but is deserving of a chance to exploit its numerous attractions, surrounding mountains and unique blend of Korean culture as it rests in the heart of this thriving nation!

Daegu International Body Painting Festival 2012

2012-09-04T09:10:00.001-07:00

After living in one place for so long it is easy to fall into a comfortable daily, weekly and monthly groove that at times seems hard to break. Even living in the most seemingly mundane places however, can still offer unique opportunities to be taken advantage of. Such was the case this past weekend in Daegu, South Korea.

Occasionally some obscure attraction or event will come to town and break up the typical flow of weekend life here in Daegu. In this case it was the International Body Painting Festival. With no idea what it was all about, we decided to divert our weekend routine from downtown to Duryu Park.

Once there and with a cold beer in hand we began to investigate the fair ground. Nothing could have prepared me for the spectacle I was about to see. Tents full of artists painting their nearly nude canvas’s in the most vibrant and intricate designs I have ever seen on any work of art before. Crowds of photographers with larger than life camera lenses were snapping photos of the naked bodies being adorned with the creative twists of the artists; representing South Korea, China, Japan, Germany, Ukraine, Bulgaria the USA!

As this was occurring on stage there were graffiti contests as well as costume contests on stage where models became lost in the lavish and exotic body paint, dresses, and head wear. Some of them were a bit creepy with their long finger nails reaching out for you, almost like drag queens. The entire event seemed bizarre as it was being held in South Korea, a land of conservancy where typically showing even a shoulder is deemed offensive.

The event served as the perfect meeting ground for my friends to drink in the sun and have a worldly experience in our cities own back yard. We were among the first to return the following day to do it all over again!

BECOMING ONE

2012-07-05T08:32:00.002-07:00

While travelling throughout Europe or Latin America, whether it is in cities or country sides, one will encounter a never ending supply of aesthetic churches and cathedrals. While meandering through bustling city streets or traversing deserts of Africa and the Middle East one will find a seemingly infinite supply of elaborately beautiful mosques. Central and East Asia are no different in that the major tourist sites consist of dramatic temples, artistically splendid in their nature.

Narrow-minded travelers will tell you after you have seen one temple you have seen them all. However a more fervent and vigilant traveler will find each one to be unique and gorgeous in its own entirety. Heinsa is no exception and as one of Korea’s largest temples and is nestled deep in the mountains of Gayasan National Park serving as the home to the Tripitaka Koreana. The best way to truly experience the Buddhist life is by undertaking a temple stay.

The temple stay at Heinsa, although infiltrated by numerous other foreigners looking for the same opportunity, proved to be a real eye opener into a way of life unknown to most. One starts by surrendering your clothing and putting on the clothes of a laymen, similar to a bell boys clothing yet strangely comfortable and pleasing. Then the teachings begin on how to act within the temple, obey the codes of silence, bow correctly, walk diligently and behave as the monks do.

The day ends with the harmonious beating of the drums done with such skill and precision from a first, second and third year monk in rotation. Followed by this is prayer time in the main temple with the essence of burning candles and the silent serenity of the fast approaching night. A tour around the facility with a kind-hearted and humorous monk truly gave insight into what Buddhism philosophy is rooted in.

The monks of this temple endure a rigorous year of silence and meditation. To truly mediate is to clear ones’ mind of all things past and present and truly live for the moment. To appreciate each breath you take, embrace the sounds of nature that surround you, and to ponder such questions as “Who am I?” To be able to forget about all things past and not think about the future rids yourself from ill though and suffering and allows true enlightenment.

Sleep becomes underappreciated until you wake up at 3am to commence your day with the beating drums whose boisterous sound resonates throughout the surrounding mountains and wakes up the still dreaming wildlife. A silent procession then relocates to the main temple to pray and is followed by prostration. Prostration involves partaking in a grueling 108 submissive bows in order to clear the mind and show respect to all things, primarily oneself. This process is followed directly by mediation in which all thoughts cease to exist in your head as your breathing becomes attuned with your body and the sounds of the encroaching morning.

Upon completion and followed by an early morning mountain hike visiting the quaint life in pristine hermitages, you are left with a better understanding of the universe in which you exist and become one with all things. You become aware of the things within yourself and the things that surround you. One is given a true appreciation for the secret life contained within the confines of the temple walls.

Bibimbap for Buddha

2012-06-27T10:20:00.001-07:00

Although almost half of South Korea’s nearly 50,000,000 people do not practice religion, during the week leading up to Buddha’s May 28 birthday in Korea, the country transforms itself. Vibrant lanterns line bustling city streets to secluded mountain trails and everything in between. Even though most students don’t know why, this is also a red holiday and schools are closed making it a joyous celebration all around. The city of Gumi is no different.

Gumi is a large city in the heart of Korea known mainly for producing electronics and is therefore skipped over by most tourists. In the outskirts of Gumi however is the well maintained Guemosan Provincial Park. During this holiday weekend families flocked to the park where tents and BBQ pits were erected by the thousands.

Even in the early morning hours the main trail just beyond the manmade lake with its gorgeous mountain backdrop was flooded with weekend visitors fully decked out in their lavish hiking equipment. The first stop up the mountain is at Geumosanseong Fortress where a blanket of lanterns hung overhead nearly blocking out the sunlight. A little further up families were picnicking and relaxing below Daehye Falls, whose water modestly flows from the cliffs above in a delicate veil of white.

The Mountain trail cleared out beyond this point as many people turned back, allowing the trail to become decongested and a more peaceful experience. Although the summit of Mt. Geumosan is only 976m it still provides a breath-taking 360⁰ view into the green valleys of the park and the expansive city in the distance. Built into the rocky cliffs overlooking the entire valley is home to Yaksaam Temple. This is the ultimate stop for avid prayers and where bright ribbons flail and lanterns sway in the mountain top breeze.

The descent down the north face of the mountain proved to be an arduous task clearly visible from the total lack of other hikers. The trail sloped steeply downhill and was masked with decaying fall foliage, covered with slick rocks and loose gravel making the trip down a much more reckless journey. The trail eventually leads out to a road to Beopseongsa temple. This miniscule temple lacks in the grandeur that many other temples offer but certainly embodied the essence of the holiday.

The temple workers were diligently hanging lanterns to and fro; others vigorously cleaned the temple grounds, while still others were preparing free lunch for all temple visitors. Exhausted from hiking and dripping with sweat we were invited to sit down in a giant family style hall with other families to enjoy an endlessly delicious and energizing bowl of bibimbap among the tranquil serenity of the temple. Without a word being exchanged the overwhelming sensation or harmony instilled a better understanding of what Buddha’s birthday is really all about.

HAHOE VILLAGE- A Lifestyle Lost

2012-06-19T09:28:00.001-07:00

As the Nakdong River winds through the Taebaek Mountains it carves out a gem lost in time; the Hahoe Village. With a circular shape this miniscule village is surrounded by white sandy riverside beaches and isolated from the rest of the city of Andong by a mountainous backdrop. This quaint historic village now consisting of a few hundred people has been the home of the influential Ryu family for over 600 years and now provides a living museum where curious tourists can indulge in a more traditional Korea.

On the other side of the river raises the Buyongdae Cliff, towering above the river and shadowing over the village. There is one rickety wooden motor boat that delivers visitors to and from other sides of the river for a nominal fee. In the hills surrounding the cliffs are several unique pavilions and the Hwacheon Seowon Confucius Academy that stand as testaments to time. While approaching the peak of the cliffs an awe-inspiring view begins to reveal itself. A perfect view across the river down into the small village, its fertile farm land, rolling mountain backdrop and lush green islands dotting the river creates a serene image.

Back across the river one can see and feel a way of life long forgotten be the rapidly industrializing Korean culture. In a pristine and tight knit central community consisting of adobe style housing with straw or tiled roofs, each house separated by stone walls lined with flowers, remains a tranquil and humble lifestyle. It seems ironic that in 1999 Queen Elizabeth II, coming from a well groomed and luxurious lifestyle, visited this modest village and even planted a tree with the assistance of some monks.

Surrounding the village stretches an expanse of perfectly shaped rectangular crops where a variety of agricultural products are provided extremely fertile soil to grow. The rice paddy by themselves provide a unique ecological niche where tadpoles can be seen swimming about in the flooded fields, and graceful white cranes slowly wade through the water looking for a meal. Popping out in the middle of the fields stands a most peculiar farm house - turned gothic church, encircled by scarecrows. Without another living soul in sight it provides the perfect setting for a horror movie.

Upon reaching the end of the farm land, densely forested mountains being to rise up with Mount Hwa as the highest peak separating the village from the nearly 400 year old Confucius academy, Byeongsan Seowon on the other side. Although the mountain surly lacks in height, its infrequent use by visitors allows one to be creative in making your own way through the over grown trails and constantly clearing spider webs off your face. It’s relatively dormant utilization also offers the chance to view Korea’s scarce wild life such as deer and various birds and amphibians.

From the peak of Mount Hwa one gets the opposing view down into the village with Buyongdae Cliff in the background and where tour buses can be seen carting people to and from the village. Upon descent the trail breaks its silence as civilization can once again be heard and where families are found picnicking on the foreground of the temple along the river. The temple although not as grandiose as others, still provides a majestic place to relax, rehydrate, and reflect on the day before the hitchhiking home.

TAIPEI

2012-05-09T09:20:00.000-07:00

In the heart of the East China Sea, Taiwan and its’ capital city Taipei offers a blending of cultures including Japanese, Chinese, Korean, Philippine, Malaysian and others to create a vibrant and unique place. Taipei offers an endless selection of informative museums, impressive monuments, architectural wonders, hidden art districts, colorful night markets, peaceful temples, lush parks, lavish hotels and a vast array of other sights, sounds, smells, and tastes to invigorate even the most close-minded traveler.

Towering over the center of the city is former tallest building in the world, Taipei 101. Overtaken by the Burj Khalifa in Dubai and just days ago by One World Trade Center in New York City, Tapei 101 is still a modern marvel and the gem in the heart of Taipei. It’s unique eight rising segments symbolize abundance, wealth and good fortune, certainly appropriate symbols of the city. The tower can be viewed from all areas of the city however the best is atop nearby Elephant Mountain giving a marvelous 360^O view of the city.

Across the city are numerous museums covering everything from indigenous cultures to dinosaurs and Chinese history. The 228 park presents an excellent National Museum of Science and Natural History and houses impressive collection of dinosaur bones and a contemporary display on global warming. The must-see Grand Palace Museum also offers a luxurious and spacious display of everything from an on lend exhibition from the Louvre to a walk back in time through Chinese history thousands of years ago.

The night life of Taipei is also one of epic proportions. The main attractions are the numerous night markets around the city, most infamous being the Shilin Night Market. The markets serve as vast outdoor shopping malls in tightly packed streets, lined with food vendors selling a wealth of international food from tacos to python soup served with whiskey shots of its blood, urine, semen, scales, saliva and guts. Delicious scents infiltrate the nights’ air as tourists, couples, and locals alike peruse the streets window shopping and snacking while listening to all varieties of international music from Celine Dion and Eminem to K-pop and Salsa blaring from each shop. Interspersed throughout the streets, endless carnival games are also incorporated into this lively scene offering activities for people of all ages.

Taipei is an expansive city with a vibrant culture and endless entertainment. It serves as a melting pot of Asian and global cultures packed with history yet with a façade of a modern city. It’s people are outgoing and open-minded giving rise to its spot on my top list of worldly cities and a place I most certainly seek to visit again.

Maokong Gondola

2012-05-09T07:58:00.005-07:00

In the southern most region of Taipei is the infrequently visited yet fascinating Muzha region. With a proper guide, Yu Lee showed me around this spectacular hillside region that leaves the hustle and bustle of the city behind and offers the tranquil serenity of rural Taipei. The first stop on the tour was the well laid out Taipei Zoo, housing expansive beautiful gardens and a massive collection of animals from around the world. From lazy Asiatic bears to koalas lounging in tree tops this zoo has a lot to offer. I even got my first glimpse of a giant panda doing runway model walks for on lookers.

The gondola, although simply a mode of transport for people like Yu who are fortunate enough to be residents in this spectacular place, proved to be a memorizing experience for me. Riding up the mountain in a swinging gondola bound for Maokong at the top, provided views of the lush misty mountains dotted by temples, and was simply breathtaking. At the top we stopped for some amazing food including fried rice, stinky tofu, and gelatinous duck blood as the midday rains commenced.

Maokongs’ lush green rolling hills also lay home to the tea district of Taipei. Quaint little tea shops lay hidden in the rolling hills of an abundance of various tea plants, releasing tantalizing aromas and offering stunning views. The silence of the region offers a perfect place to relax and inspires intellectual conversation.

Further down the mountain nestled in the cliffs is the Zhinan Temple and its’ surrounding palaces giving a grand overview into the valley from its stone steps. The temple is extremely unique in its’ indoor design with night stars on the ceiling, fluffy clouds projecting from the walls to meet the night sky, and lined with hundreds of gold statues of individuals that bring luck to people born in every month of every year. One of the surrounding palaces offers locals and travelers alike a place to stop for coffee and tea with delicious side snacks including garlic fried lima beans all for free. It made for perfect place to wind down and end a magnificent day.

228

2012-05-04T11:14:00.001-07:00

History can be learned through textbooks that are often times bias, however history is culture, and with culture being an overall performance of life it can best be learned while living somewhere. This was the case for Taiwan a country I knew little about yet gained a plethora of knowledge about in only a short stay. 228 Peace Park was the perfect place for such a journey through time.

Outside the 228 museum were transparent photos of hundreds of slain individuals, bringing my thoughts back to past experiences in places such as the Rwanda genocide memorial, Cambodia genocide memorial, Nagasaki, Pearl Harbor and countless other sites of atrocities of man against man. I could do nothing but ponder the many scenarios being played through my head as to why these people may have died.

When the museum finally opened in the morning hours, and although mostly in Chinese, the images, dates and displays provided me a wealth of knowledge. Known as the 228 incident, two years after the close of WWII, it resulted from a clear cultural barrier between the Taiwanese and the Chinese Nationalist government. The outbreak of violence erupted when a cigarette smuggler was shot dead on February 27, 1947 and the people of Taipei sent out radio messages across the nation calling for protests. These protests led to the execution of thousands of elites by soldiers trying to repress the protests and leading to a long period of Marshall Law and eventual independence from mainland China.

The 228 Peace Park containing the museum and monument remembering not only the move towards independence but the hundreds of lives lost in the wake of the fight for freedom, now stands as a symbol of remembering the past yet forgiveness of those committing such atrocities. It is a symbol to the world that Taiwan is a progressive national not dwelling on the past but focused on the future. It turns bitter hatred into a striving nation!

Beitou Hot Springs

2012-05-04T09:45:00.003-07:00

Spas and hot springs have an insurmountably important role in East Asian society, and Taiwan is no exception. Located in northern Taipei is the Datun volcanic mountain range between the Jinshan and the Kanjiao faults giving home to Beitou and its’ famed hot springs. In 1896 the Japanese built their first hot spring spa and in 1913 the construction of the Beitou public baths was completed due to the importance of bathing in Japanese culture. Bathing is not just a hygienic activity but one where an individual can enjoy a relaxing atmosphere, rest, take tea, play games and eat meals.

Generated from the geothermal energy from below the earths’ surface, Beitou offers a wide range of hot springs. Such hot springs include green sulfur springs, white sulfur springs, and iron oxide springs. The public baths provide a range of natural hot spring temperature peaking off at 45^OC or 113^OF. Rising from the baths is a blanket of steam hiding the bluish green waters below. The faint smell of sulfur lingers in the air but it provides world class relaxation.

In the public bathhouse the cost is a mere $1.25 and makes for a nervous yet interesting experience. Stripping down and rinsing off is the first step, then facing the baths full of elderly people making their daily stop. Etiquette of the baths is simply learned via observation. It is imperative that you do not just dip your feet but rather plop right into the scolding water of the hottest bath first. You then move to the cold pools, with a friendly reminder from an avid bather to rinse off the sulfurous water in the showers first. Once in the cold water your muscle tense up and you feel fit as ever. A return to the hot water and repeat, relaxes the muscles, removes all worries from your mind and allows an opportunity of pure relaxation. The Japanese definitely got this one right.

Chiang Kai-shek

2012-05-03T10:47:00.002-07:00

Chiang Kai-shek I used to believe was just a famous city somewhere in Asia however the beauty of travelling has once again proved the most educational experience one can have. I quickly learned hours after landing that Chiang Kai-shek was actually a person. Not just any person, but a power house of 20^th century China, whom the wartime leader of The Republic of China would break communist ties with China and become a great leader of Taiwan.

His memorial exists just as other famous leaders’ global memorials are presented on a grand chair as a great bronze statue in the center of the Peace Park, just like the Lincoln Memorial overlooks the reflecting pool. He sits tall on his pedestal overlooking the National Theatre, National Concert Hall and Gate to the Peace Park, all of which exhibit stunning architecture and house Taiwanese culture in its’ grandeur. Atop the footsteps of both the Theatre and Concert Hall the youth of Taiwan practice their dance moves in small groups of ambitious pop dancers blaring their music from boom-boxes.

I arrived with perfect timing as always for the lowering of the Taiwanese flag, the retirement of the guards and the closing of the memorial. The all in white, from head to toe, troops proceeded in a grand march providing the hundreds of onlookers with a display with bayonets drawn and guns twirling. The entire experience from the steps of the memorial left me with a most sensational feeling of warmth and welcoming to a new country!

Changchan Shrine

2012-05-03T09:22:00.002-07:00

While on my way exiting Taroko Gorge National Park, it is sometimes ok to be a tourist and stop at the places the tour buses stop. In this case, out of the hundreds of temples I have seen on my travels throughout Asia, this was the most breathtaking. Changchan Shrine or translated as the Eternal Spring Shrine, however just because it is a tourist site does not mean you have to experience it as a tourist.

In the early morning hours I watched bus after bus pull up, take a picture and move on. Some stopped and walked to the temple and back. I decided to ascend the gorge cliffs to Changguang Temple and do my own tour of this spectacle. The temple was a peaceful place with not a single tourist in sight. The arduous uphill hike to Taroko Tower left me drenched in sweat but the chance to view the other side of the gorge where the tour buses were stopping to take pictures. It made me feel proud to know that the hundreds of tourists below would never see or experience this and that I would be a dot in all of their photos.

At Taroko Tower I again was the only person around. Although it overwhelming smelled of rotting larvae paying tribute on the towers steps, the view and the serenity of the gorge was reason enough to stop for lunch in the top of the tower, watching the people below snap pictures, hop on their air conditioned buses and continue on a tour without ever experiencing the sensations of the places they are seeing.

I continued down the now downhill cliff trail towards the Eternal Shrine Temple only stopping once to allow a viper to slowly move across the trail. The temple was completely mesmerizing. With two red, gold, white and blue temples to each side build into the rocks and a majestic waterfall rushing out from the cliffs in the third, center temple, falling into the gorge below. It is a place that seems to connect the earth with the sky and the gods, with a simply indescribable beauty and charm.

Upon returning back to the tourist stop I went from sweaty adventurer to instant fame. Eating a snack on the side of the road waiting for the public bus back to Hualien, tour bus after tour bus pulled up and I conversed with the tour guides and they made me part of the tour. I was the 24 year old world traveler that just hiked descended the cliffs of the gorge. Group after group of little old Chinese tourists asked to take pictures with me, a truly hilarious end to the day!

Taroko Gorge

2012-05-03T08:35:00.006-07:00

With no game plan at all I hopped on the first train of the morning to Hualien on the east coast of Taiwan. Upon arrival I sought information on how to get to Taroko Gorge National Park but there was no information to be found. Luckily some very kind people from Beijing were also trying to get to the park without being ripped off by a taxi and helped me break the language barrier and we all headed to the park entrance via the inexpensive public bus.

Upon arrival an overly friendly and excited old park ranger was eager to explain the rock formations of the gorge, show us his pictures of the insects, samples of the wood and more. It was very warm welcome indeed but could have lasted all day so we were forced to kindly excuse ourselves and begin the short trek through the jungle to get down to the gorge. The others decided to take the tour bus through the gorge while I decided on trekking the 17km to the end, feeling the need to take in all the awe-inspiring sights and sounds of the park.

Impressive sheer rocky cliffs rose high above the rushing blue water of the Liwu River lined by the weaving and winding Central Cross-Island Highway and topped by green jungle. Down the highway only the sound of rushing water slamming against rocks could be heard and every twist and turn of the gorge brought new and inspiring sights. Only the occasional passing of a tour bus or taxi going to the major tourist lookout spots or having to walk extended distances through dark highway tunnels broke the deep connection with nature.

Along the way turquoise pools formed below, birds flew overhead, cascading waterfalls emerged from the jungles and an occasional foot bridge spanned the gapping gorge. Temples and pagodas dotted the misty mountains as butterflies swirled about in the breezy air. Flowers were in full blossom and the sound of the jungle was the only companion necessary. Upon reaching Tiangxiang at the end of the 17km of gorge I set up my tent at the campsite and was confused as to why I was the only one camping in this simply heavenly place. Exhausted I fell asleep to the sounds of the jungle and watching the flowing river cutting through the gorge from my tent door, an experience simply incomparable to anything else.

WULAI

2012-05-03T07:52:00.002-07:00

Located an hour south of Taipei is the tranquil town of Wulai, home of the Atayal indigenous people and where the Nanshi and Tonghou Creeks meet. Rising out from the banks of the creeks are the colorful buildings of this small historic town with lush green jungle in its’ backdrop. Strolling down its’ main streets in the morning rain, as business owners are opening up shop and street vendors are rolling out their carts radiating with lavish smells of fresh food, is a worthwhile experience.

Following down the train tracks leading out of the city is a peaceful one kilometer hike to the impressive Wulai waterfall. Seeming to be spew from the middle of the cliffs comes out a magnificent long white veil of water gracefully falling until breaking onto the rocks below in a thunderous roar. With butterflies whirling around, flowers in bloom and the absence of any other tourists, it makes for a sight of pure tranquility.

Back in town, where the two creeks meet are natural hot springs where the locals come to bath. With its fresh steaming water it is instance relaxation dipping in. This free place of bliss is surrounded by hotels offering pricey spas. Ignoring all the elderly men lounging around in their Speedos for their daily dip, you enter a state of soothing calmness and the only thing to disrupt this mood is a rolling storm from Mother Nature cracking thunder and lightning in the afternoon sky.

To get back to the bus station one needs to continue up a hill to a small yet impressive temple. Providing shelter from the torrential down pouring rain the temple released waves of intense burning incense and the melodious chant of monks. Braving the storm across the long red foot bridge to the other side of the gorge is an invigorating experience and offers one final view of the entire town before the trip back to Taipei.

Tamsui- A Step Back In Time

2012-05-03T07:17:00.000-07:00

Nestled at the northern most point of Taipei, at the mouth of the Tamsui River, lays the quaint city of Tamsui. It has all the charm of any port town but mixed in is a colonial feel. The region was once home to the Formosan indigenous tribes however they were unable to escape the far reaching exploration of the Europeans throughout the worlds’ oceans. It didn't take long after reaching the Far East that the Spanish settled in the town in 1629. The Dutch would soon take over in 1641 for the next 20 years and began building a fortress.

Propped on a hill overlooking the river stands Fort San Domingo with its’ bright red bricks escaping typical Asian architecture and being uniquely colonial. The structure was used as the British consulate during the late 19th and 20th centuries and it has spectacular views of the adjacent port town of Bali and its’ lush green mountain in the background. Now a wonderfully preserved building and museum, it offers great insight into the history of not only Tamsui but all of Taiwan.

Further up the hill rests the appropriately named "Little White House." Also a museum today the bright white house surrounded by vibrant flowers and an equally impressive view of the river it stands testiment to the importance of this river location. It served as the customs officer’s residence built by the Chinese in 1862 and later by the Japanese, and is a symbol of the importance of this small port city in global maritime trade.

Along the riverfront, life changes from a rustic colonial feel to a vivacious Asian port. The boardwalk is lined with fisherman lazily trying to get a catch on one side and a long stretch of local shops, street food vendors, and carnival games on the other. Famous for its’ simple yet tasty fish ball soup, black eggs, and bright spires of ice cream, just relaxing and people watching makes for the perfect way to end your day.

Geumjeong Fortress Trail to Beomeo-sa

2012-04-18T06:05:00.005-07:00

From Nummun, the South Gate, of the Geumjeong Fortress wall begins a calming 8.8 km hike to Bukmun, the North Gate in the mountains engulfing Busan. In the early morning hours, the hike began on a paved trail with few people moving about in a peaceable silence. Upon arrival to the East Gate, Jeff and I were invited in the ranger post by the park ranger and his brother for some coffee. We sat in the shack as they tried to teach us Korean and Mandarin along with some interesting conversation. Eventually we had to excuse ourselves from their hospitality and continue on with the map and directions they provided.

The trail left the main road and we began weaving uphill through the forest alongside a trail parallel to the old stone fortress wall with blooming spring flowers flooding the hills. With limited trail signs we appeared as total tourists looking at our map, so an older Korean man hiking as well told us to follow him. He served as an excellent guide explaining to us the history of the fortress and temples as well as pointing out plants and flowers, teaching us their Korean names.

Upon arriving to the mountain ridge rolling hills of golden grass swayed in the wind and in the distance valleys full of communist style block buildings with the Sea of Japan in the distance on either side made a seemingly perfect backdrop. The stone wall could be seen from the top of Mount Wonhyobong slithered through the valleys like a serpent all to the peak of Mount Euisangbong, resembling a much smaller but still aesthetic, Great Wall of China.

From the North Gate on the other side of Mount Wonhyobong began a winding stone trail down the north side of the mountain towards Beomeo-sa Temple; or the ‘Heavenly fish temple.’ The volume of hikers in their brightly shining and only for show hiking gear increased exponentially. Their backpacks were clinging with the sound of soju bottles, a typical hiking sound in Korea.

Even with the large crowds of people the sound of trickling streams down the rocks coupled with the budding spring trees created a brilliant sensation.

Walking through the village outside of Beomeo-sa we once again found ourselves as the only tourists with a few silent monks moving about from temple to temple. Beomeo-sa was an impressively large complex of over 27 separate buildings with a history dating back over 1335 years ago. Although it was burned down several times through the centuries, it still invokes a sense of wonder, especially looking at the relatively short history of the USA.

Although the temple was lacking in as much grandeur and beauty as other temples visited, it was still a worthwhile hike through the mountains to a place of pure serenity and historical value. Although South Korea might be a small country, even after two years living here there are still many new marvels that continue to be experienced inspiring new adventures.

Seokbulsa Temple

2012-04-12T10:05:00.003-07:00

Not much compares with waking up long before the sun makes its daily trek across the sky than beginning an adventure on a rainy weekday. Aboard the first subway of the morning the few moving souls are in a zombie like state with nothing but the sound of the train dragging their lifeless bodies to their destinations. With the sun still not up, boarding a long distance bus also lacks any sign of life as everyone tried to catch up on an hours sleep. I myself could not help but gaze through the windows at the mountains veiled in fog appearing like shadowy giants in the predawn light.

Upon arrival, grumpy people began to move about as my body twitched with excitement. With two of my friends we began to walk across Pusan in the morning rain as the sun began to rise in the sky. Although dark and gloomy the trees blossoming with flowers and the first signs of life in waking city were truly an experience, as we walked to the cable car to bring us up the mountain.

Waiting for the cable car to begin operation the silence of the mountains with birds beginning to stir about is a feeling of pure tranquility. As the three of us were finally able to board the cable car we began our ascent and almost instantly all visibility was lost and we were engulfed in the low lying cloud cover. Eventually we emerged from the clouds and were given a breath-taking view of the city far below with its’ typical Korean communist style white block buildings almost like camouflage amongst the clouds.

When we got to the top we began going immediately through the muddy trails towards Seokbul-sa Temple. Being the only ones on the trail the peaceful hike to the South Gate of Geumjeong Fortress left us in conversational solitude. Winding around the mountains the clouds blocked all views but for seconds at a time would roll away leaving us with spectacular views of the granite mountains and valleys below.

The trail eventually began a steep downward course through the mud and slick rocks. Wild pheasants moved about as we slowly slid our way down the trail. It wasn’t long before we could hear the drums and chants of Buddhist prayers coming from the temple for us to follow. Through the clouds we emerged onto a path entering the opened and welcoming gates of the temple, with golden footprints of Buddha on each door.

As we walked through the gates we were still the only people in sight. The seemingly empty and cloud covered temple radiated an eerie yet soothing calmness at the same time. Turning up the stairs a most magical sight began to reveal itself little by little each step of the way.

Within a miniscule canyon hidden behind the temple were massive stone grottos of figurines carved into the rocks on each side, standing about two stories tall each. On the central alter was a statue of a goddess standing eloquently in front of an overhanging rock with Buddha carved in over head. To each side was a set of stone steps rising up into the clouds with carvings moving up along the sides. The detail in which these were carved and there extraordinary placement was absolutely magnificent. It was a truly serene place that fills your heart with mysterious awe and sense of peace.

But Where Are The Cherries?

2012-04-11T07:58:00.000-07:00

Anywhere that there is winter, there is surely to be an intrepid need to get out and exploring come spring! This was exactly the case for our last minute decision to take a train to Jinhae in South Korea’s southern coast, to partake in its infamous Cherry Blossom Festival which receives 2,000,000 visitors each year. Without a plan or a thought of hesitation we got on the train and commenced our trip.

Upon arrival the train slowly chugged along the track lined with tranquil white and pink blossoming trees on either side. Thousands of tourists were behind the trees snapping photos of the train as it came in like a bride down the aisle surrounded by flower girls. When this bridal procession ended we got off and simply followed the masses in the direction of never ending tents lining every road in the town center. With no plan, place to sleep, or any idea even where we were; we stopped in an ally lined with tents roasting black hogs for some of the best pork I have ever encountered.

As the sun set into the night sky, skylights waving through the air called our attention to a stadium where traditional drummers were performing on stage with such vigor and power the entire arena was filled with an indescribable ambiance of power surging through the stands. They were followed by a most peculiar performance from the Navy’s band playing the YMCA with obscure belly dancers doing the dance on stage, and the three of us were the only members of the audience joining in on the YMCA dance. At this point it was time to leave with no shame but smiles of childhood delight on our faces.

The night continued with live traditional Korean music concerts and dances occurring throughout the blossom filled city. Still with no place to sleep and the night growing cold we joined other friends and continued through the night doing park bench Karaoke in front of crowds of excited Koreans. In the early hours when the crowd died down we decided to go to a Jimjilbang to sleep for a few hours. After living in Korea nearly 2 years this was my first experience in a jimjilbang and I have been missing out. Spa by day and place to crash on the floor by night! Brilliant! A truly amazing experience, that has become a weekly habit.

The following morning with the luck that I have, yet again my shoes were stolen. Without hesitation and the relentless need to travel we continued on through the day as I walked barefoot and we observed the true beauty of the cherry blossoms. We visited a cascading stream through the city surrounded blindingly with the natural hues of the blossoms.

Back at the festival we climbed to the hill top tower overlooking the city and the shoreline. The coast was dotted with military vessels and the hills were overflowing with cherry blossoms. From above you could follow with your eyes the streams of white and blue topped tents lining every street below bustling with people. But from atop the hill it was a quiet, tranquil, an escape from winter and a warm welcome to spring!

Korean Christmas Surgery

2012-01-08T04:18:00.000-08:00

What started as a regular weekend of going out with friends while hosting another couch surfer quickly turned into an early and unanticipated Christmas present. Saturday I noticed a small red spot on my leg, which for most is nothing out of the ordinary. Myself however am far from ordinary and having had more than ten STAPH infections in the past six years, I suspected this was yet another so I commenced my pre-prescribed antibiotics regiment. This particular infection however grew virulently out of control in a 24 hour period, growing to the size of a grapefruit on the back of my leg and making walking an unbearably painful task.

Upon noticing the severity of the infection I explained to my best friends and support system in Korea how to go about cutting it open to drain, as it was in too awkward a location to do myself. The idea was simple and my friends were prepared to make an incision in my leg to relieve the pressure of the fluid within. Due to the depth and speed of the infection however a last minute decision was made and I reluctantly took the subway and limped to the nearest hospitals around 8PM Sunday.

I checked in by leaving my identification card at the desk and proceeded to an ER bed, surrounded by screaming babies and crying families, which is always the worst part about being in a hospital. It's not about the pain that you are in but that of watching others in physical and emotional pain. I waited on the bed until an English speaking doctor could see me and show her the infection and explain what it was, unfortunately it went in one ear and out the other.

I underwent standard blood and urine tests as the doctor consulted with other doctors returning one by one with them, as each new doctor took a picture on their phone. They told me I needed a chest x-ray and I disagreed but they insisted it was hospital policy for all patients to receive a chest x-ray.

After the x-ray I was rolled on a gurney to the back of the hospital next to a teenage boy who for no point in my time in the hospital stopped screaming and crying. As I lay in the bed, now connected to an IV, I counted the dots of dried blood splatter on the ceiling above me pondering possibilities of how they got up there. In the meantime doctor after doctor came up to see the infection and take a picture, and each time I explained that all I needed them to do was to cut it open and drain it.

After 2 hours of this repeated cycle I began to lose my patience and was about to pull out my IV when an attractive young female doctor came over to me and I explained everything to her as a team of surgeons descended upon me. They decided to take an unnecessary leg x-ray and then left me in the bed for another hour as the team discussed a plan in Korean, clearly still not understanding what needed to be done.

With an unknown painkiller being fed through my IV and filled with frustration was fighting the medicine to stay awake. One of the doctors approached me and asked if they could take an MRI to see where it needed to be cut. I unconsciously agreed and signed the paper as contrast dye began circulating throughout my body. Struggling to stay awake I asked them if my insurance would cover the MRI.

Upon receiving the answer of a $500 cost I instantly gained consciousness in a fit of rage. I jumped from the bed and said HELL NO, screaming and yelling at them to stop the dye and that if they did not perform the surgery immediately as I instructed I would rip out both IV's and walk to another hospital. With the threat of violence the team of surgeons reluctantly rolled me to the operating room.

With a body pencil I drew a line where I wanted them to cut. They brought in anesthesia and told me I would be asleep for roughly fifteen minutes but I demanded to be awake in order to oversee the procedure. The three young surgeons, now terribly afraid, photographed my leg and reluctantly prepared for surgery. They covered the wound with blood splatter sheets and turned on the light as I arched forward lying on my stomach to watch behind me through the mirror they provided upon my request. Alcohol swab, iodine swab and four injections of lidocaine and we were ready.

I gave some last minute encouragement to the currently petrified young doctor as he hesitantly picked up the scalpel and nervously moved into position. With the first small incision the wound erupted like a bloody puss filled Vesuvius. The assistants panicked and grabbed towels to begin wiping away the fluids as they ran down my leg like a slow flowing river.

Once cleaned and cleared the surgeon continued cutting down the line I had drawn straight through the skin and then clamped it open. He then ordered a surgical vacuum to be brought to the room as he continued cutting into the muscle towards the bone breaking into more pustules along the way. He then internally probed up and down to drain but both of these cuts sent a surge of pain throughout my body and I stopped watching through the mirror and buried my face into the pillow.

Luckily I looked up in time to see the assistant handing stitching thread and a needle to the surgeon. I yelled as loud as my weak body could to stop! With my leg tied down and clamped open bleeding, I had to explain to them that the wound cannot be closed and needed to stay open to continue draining the infection throughout the week.

A two minute debate began, and I believe that an angry, drugged and bleeding foreigner might be a Koreans worst nightmare. I had to explain to the surgeon how to slowly fold in packing gauze back and forth into the now gaping empty hole in my leg. It took nearly a meter of gauze to completely fill the hole before the clamps were removed and the job was done.

I congratulated and thanked the team of doctors as they rolled me back to the ER with a smile on my face. A doctor then entered with a cart of what appeared to be miniature empty beer bottles. The cute doctor with whom helped me earlier injected yet another needle into my arm and my blood began pouring into bottle after bottle until they all were full for reasons unknown.

Confused by the situation and now lacking blood with two IVs pumping my body with fluids, antibiotics and painkillers my surgeon returned with paperwork for hospital admission for three days in which time the blood tests and cultures could be analyzed. Quickly I lashed out and said I knew it was Staphyloccocus aureus and that I wanted to go home now. He walked away embarrassed and sent the next doctor to explain that I needed to stay. Again I denied him.

This process was repeated by two more doctors and I once again in a near unconscious state yelled at the fourth doctor that I am not staying and that I would rip out my IVs if they did not take them out. I gladly signed release papers and papers labeled 'Refusal for aftercare'. My cute dream doctor once again returned to remove the IVs as I apologized to her for being such an asshole but knew what was best for my body.

At 1am I was given antibiotics and painkillers, paid the exuberant hospital bill and slowly limped out of the ER doors and down the road to find a late night taxi home. With all the stress of the night I quickly Skyped my parents to inform them I was alright, and thankfully was able to sleep in my own bed until work the next morning. The experience although extremely trying, gave me great insight into the health care system of yet another country; as well as another outlandish story.

Korean Kings of the Past

2012-01-07T07:48:00.000-08:00

After nearly 20 months of living, working and traveling around Korea, the major cities seem very cut and paste, with an endless craving to achieve a westernized look. The city of Gyeongju on the eastern coast of the peninsula however, has a very different atmosphere. Lacking in high rise buildings and the speed of most Korean cities, Gyeongju stands true after the trials of time, war and industrialization.

My trip began in the early morning hours of a cold winter day walking through frost covered fields. The tranquility of slowly passing through the country side with nothing but the bag on my back, was in itself an awe inspiring moment. I arrived at Bunhwangsa temple as the sun was breaking into the dark sky and crisp morning air. The site, to a casual onlooker feels lack luster, but it provided me with a sense of solitary peace.

As I continued on in the morning light the frost covering the farm fields began to recede as students dressed in their school uniforms emerged onto the empty country road, walking in the same aimless direction as myself. Upon arrival at the Anapji Pond the gates were only just opening and I found myself as the only individual seeking entry.

Having the park to myself I truly gained an appreciation for what the ancient Silla Dynasty was able to accomplish. The beautiful man-made ponds surrounded by what once was once an eccentric series of lavish, nearly 1400 year old temples, still remained in their grandeur. The adjacent Gyeongju National Museum, although overly sized for it's limited contents, did give excellent insight to Korea's past, packed with a wealth of historical knowledge.

The next stop several km away was the famed Cheomseongdae Observatory. Although it appeared to be nothing more than a windmill tower without fan blades, this building holds its importance in being the oldest observatory in East Asia. A disappointment to trek it for just a quick glance, it's historic significance is certainly something to ponder. In the minds of Koreans who ever so hard look for things that can be uniquely claimed as theirs, this site holds testament to their accomplishments.

I continued on for about 20 km visiting tomb after tomb of kings and mighty generals past. Although from the outside all the tombs look like miniscule hills build for winter sledding, inside the hold a plethora of wealth and ancient secrets similar to the famed pyramids of Egypt.

Although Gyeongju by no means shows up on one's top list of travel destinations, it is certainly in my opinion the most historically rich place in Korea. It is well worth a visit while in the region and certainly a place I will frequent in the months to come due to its proximity to Daegu. It justifiably is an obscure location packed with UNESCO sites and ancient treasures, that should be observed and respected not just by Korean nationals who at times seem extreme, but by all those attempting to experience and understand the culture that is Korea.

Gayasan National Park

2011-11-20T07:13:00.000-08:00

The occasional Saturday off of work when the weather is nice, is cause for celebration and last minute planning. This particular weekend led to an unexpected bus ride to Gayasan National Park with a group of friends representing Russia, Slovakia, and the USA. Only a bit more than an hour away from home led us to yet another one of Korea’s cherished national parks.

With fall leaves still exploding with color, Gayasan National Park made an excellent escape from the city. The hike from the bus terminal through the park passed a deep winding creek and sloping valleys of vibrantly colored trees. Although not an intensive hike it was a very peaceful walk towards the temple in a wilderness reminiscent of home, but rarely seen amongst the hustle and bustle of the city life in Daegu.

The trail led us to Haeinsa Temple, one of the most infamous temples in South Korea for its size and beauty nestled deep in a pristine valley. The temple is home to 800 year old Sutras permanently written on wooden scrolls. Located atop a small hill in the center of the valley this temple has a sense of pure tranquility and isolation. It is designed with the same copy and paste method as all of the temples in Korea yet each one shares the sense of peace that Buddhism instills.

No perfect day could end without a proper picnic with friends from abroad. This sense of satisfaction was accompanied by the innocence of children making a pile of leafs. Lacking all maturity I had to join the children in making the pile and then jumping in the pile. Having a foreigner in the midst of their entertainment not only made their day but also my own. They certainly enjoyed being able to bury an American in leafs and having a leaf fight.

Although the parents were not so keen on their children getting dirt and leafs on themselves, the innocence of youth is the strongest force and breaks all cultural boundaries. It made for the perfect end to a perfect day where the impeding stresses of real life can be forgotten. It is times like these that make one truly appreciate the friends you have, the place you are and the life you live.

Bulguksa

2011-10-28T06:27:00.000-07:00

Bulguksa is undoubtedly the most famous and frequently visited of the countless sites within Gyeongju’s city limits, located nearly 40 minutes away from the city center via bus. The site serves as one of the primary centers of the Jogye Order of Buddhism in Korea. As a result of its historical importance and beauty, the site is swamped with daily tourists viewing the temple grounds and ancient pagodas.

The temple is quite impressive in terms of its size and history, having been destroyed and rebuilt numerous times since its conception circa 528AD. However, the swarms of people leave it feeling less like a place of solitude and worship but rather more like an amusement park. With the sale of balloons, children’s toys, corndogs and more on the walk in, coupled with the presence of tour buses crowding the parking lot, expectations diminish upon arrival.

In addition to Bulguksa, a short one hour hike up Mt. Tohamsan leads to one of the most famous sites in all of Korea, the Seokguram artificial Grotto. Built nearly 1300 years ago into the peak of the mountain, the focal point of the grotto is a 3.5m granite Buddha sitting on a lotus flower signifying Nirvana. Visitors line up outside the small temple and once inside get a glimpse at the grotto from behind a protective glass shield; photography prohibited

Although both Bulguksa and Seokguram Grotto have been infiltrated by hoards of Korean tourists the two sites do share some common qualities. These qualities include their antiquity and uniqueness among Korean history. It is often impossible to have world wonders to yourself, therefore is imperative to remove oneself from the mindset of the masses and to appreciate sites for their true value.

Palgongsan

2011-10-23T08:18:00.000-07:00

In the lower outskirts of Korea’s, Taebaek Mountain Range rests the modest Palgong-san Provincial Park. Certainly in terms of scale and being a natural spectacle, the park is lacking. However, showcasing Palgong Mountain at a mere 1192m, and dotted with Buddhist temples and statues, it creates a perfect backyard playground for Daegu.

The main trail up to Dongbong peak is completely flooded with daily hikers, however the easy going trail makes for a great first trip to the park. The fall foliage, which I always took for granted at home, creates excellent vistas throughout the hike. From most vantage points the brightly colored sloping valley’s engulfing Daegu make for beautiful scenery.

On the other side of the park and an entirely separate trip in itself, is the home of the infamous Gatbawi Buddha. The short 2km hike to the top of the mountain in the early morning hours, walking to the beating sound of drums, makes for an excellent start to any day, displacing oneself from the real world. Countless others make the same hike everyday to the peak in order to pay homage and pray to the large stone Buddha carved into the mountains peak.

The park offers countless options for trails, some for the most casual of hikers, while others for those without time restraints to get off the more beaten path. Living so close, I have become a frequent visitor of the park to escape the city and find a sense of peace. It’s not easy finding a better way to start one’s day then a predawn hike encompassed in pure tranquility and serenity.