Where in the world is Joyce

2012-01-17T17:39:00.000-08:00

Greetings and Happy New Year. This week I'm about to sail on Cunard Lines' Queen Victoria from Ft Lauderdale to St Thomas, Antigua, Grenada, Bonaire and a partial transit of the Panama Canal - which means we go as far as Gatun Lake, turn around and return to the Caribbean. I'm sure we will find some changes in check in and the safety procedures after what happened to the Costa Concordia in Italy this past week. It's a terrible situation and I ask that you keep all 4000+ in your prayers. Changing course is not as unusual for many of the cruise lines. Perhaps a high ranking officer or company executive or VIP passenger has ties to a shore close by. I remember years ago Stromboli was very active and lava was just spewing down the hillside. Our ship changed course so passengers could witness an evening of volcanic activity while sipping champagne - with a full moon coming over the horizon. Beautiful - you bet! Something I will always remember. I don't think it was irresponsible for our Captain to take this initiative.
I can't say what the Costa Captain intended to do but this kind of incident should not deter cruise lines from allowing Captains from making, good solid, judgements in ship's courses.
It's just my opinion - but having crew members from so many different countries is an accident waiting to happen. Cruise Lines hire a hotel management company for many of the staff and these people are usually from countries where the labor force is great and the wages are minimal. Their intentions are wonderful but during an emergency situation, I wonder how much is lost in communication. Years ago it was considered a first class, highly impressive and respected career to work on board a cruise ship - People would brag "I've been here 25 years". Now, it seems that staff go from cruise line to cruise line or from ship to ship. It's a stepping stone for something better - perhaps higher wages and benefits on land. Very rarely will you find real loyalty among the employees/staff/crew of a cruise line. Cruise Lines work so hard to get the loyalty of their passengers, perhaps they should start at home. I think this would've made a big difference in what happened that fateful night.
I would also like to mention that the cruise industry provides a great opportunity for the vacationer. Over 3 million passengers happily and safely cruised last year. I'm sure our cruise will be full of good times and happy, smooth sailing days. But since I'm onboard, I'm sure there will be an adventure or two to report. Stay tuned. :)

2011-07-16T00:41:00.000-07:00

July 15 - We just returned for our beach day in Santorini and I think it’s time to catch you up with our cruise. We have visited a different port every day since my last blog. In order of our itinerary:

our first port was Athens. Although I’ve planned most of the private shore excursions in the interest of first-time visitors, I decided to add something I wanted to see, Corinth. The Corinth Canal is a very narrow canal that provides access between Ionian Sea and Aegean Sea. We enjoyed watching from a pedestrian bridge the private boats one by one slowly making their way through. Corinth began in the 8^th century, BC and we had the opportunity to visit the ancient city and walk among the ruins. The small museum has an excellent display of treasures yielded by the excavations in the area from pottery, figurines, mosaics, and tools. We decided to take a quick drive-through tour of Athens. I realize, going to Athens and not going to the Acropolis is a travel sin. Keep in mind, it’s full of tourist, it’s July (hot), it’s mid day (hotter), it’s over 1 ½ mile walk up hill on stone and the temperature is over 100. Our driver took us up to Mt. Lykavittos. At 900’, it’s the highest point in Athens from which we get a great view of the Acropolis as well as the enormity of the city. Everywhere you look, mile after mile you see buildings right to the sea – yes, from here you can see the Med. We had a chance to witness the changing of the guard in front of parliament just in front of Syntagma Square – the square you probably have seen the past few months during protests and riots. It’s filled with campers with signs strewed across from one end to the other protesting the government. Surprisingly it was very orderly and we saw very little damage and no burning that was reported on TV. It wasn’t there. We walked through the Plaka and enjoyed typical Greek food before heading back to the ship. Our departure from the port was a special treat. A pod of dolphins followed us jumping so high we got some great pictures.

Our next port was Kusadasi – the port to visit the well-preserved ancient city of Ephesus. Although this is my 3^rd visit to this site, I still am in awe and each time learn something new. For something different, we also visited the mountain village of Sirince, famous for wine made of various fruits. Kusadasi is known for its markets and shopping. Every corner you can find jewelry, leather shops and of course rugs. Sprinkled around are souvenirs shops and now all sorts of “real fake” or “authentic fake” items from watches to clothing to handbags.

Mykonos – our port on July 13. We are sightseed out and shopped out so today we head to the beach. Everyone is heading to Paradise Beach but we decide a quieter area, Agios Ioannis. From here we can see the island of Delos. We just missed the bus and it will be another hour for the next one so we decide to get a cab. As luck would have it, a driver who already had a fare stopped and asked where we were going. Since it was on the way, we jumped in. The beach is dotted with 2 beach chairs under each thatched umbrella, available for 10Euros. There is a beachside restaurant for lunch. What a great day to relax. By the time we arrive back to the port area, it’s wall to wall full of people. The maze of small streets were built to confuse would be attackers such as pirates, enabling villagers to maneuver them into ambush. Nowadays the only ambush is on the tourist to step into any one of a number of shops. The whitewashed buildings reflecting the blazing sunlight – set against the blue sea makes for a lot of photo ops.

Onto Rhodes – the fourth largest Greek island which is closer to mainland Turkey than to Greece. The remains of one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, the Colossus of Rhodes, is in the town’s old harbor. Over 2000 years ago the Knights of the Order of St John fortified the city. Today we have two taxis – one for the men (who take a drive along the coast and eventually enjoy a seaside lunch) and one for the women. After a quick drive through the old town, which is surrounded by medieval fortress walls, we head inland to the Valley of the Butterflies (guess who thought of this itinerary). Our driver drops us off at the top entrance. After paying a small admission fee, we start the walk down into the forest of mostly pine trees. Eventually we come to a beautiful waterfall and it’s here we get to enjoy hundreds of butterflies. This time of year, we see one kind – a small one that when still looks like the bark of a tree. In flight they are bright orange. We continue to the ancient hilltop city of Lindos. Once again we are overwhelmed by the number of tourist so we quickly retreat and our driver takes us on the other side of the city to a beautiful, quiet bay – St Paul Bay because it is one of many places Paul landed to give a sermon.

July 15 we landed at another very popular tourist island, Santorini. Our ship is anchored in a “bowl” almost 900’ below the town of Thira. In 1450BC, this volcanic island erupted (one of the biggest eruptions known) forming Santorini’s crescent shape with a huge “caldron” harbor where ships anchor. There are 3 choices to reach Thira, climb more than 600 steps, ride a donkey that climbs the 600 steps or take the cable car. Almost 10 years ago I rode the donkey so I didn’t have to do that again – all of us decide on the cable car. Another beach day but this time we were in time for the local bus to take us to Kamari Beach on the other side of the island. With standing room only, the bus has to navigate the narrow streets before finally getting out of town and on the main road. This is a black pebble beach (no sand) with a boardwalk of restaurants and souvenir shops. It’s amazing as tourists we leave some of our brain home. It’s over 90 degrees, the beach is black so what makes us think we can stroll to the water and not burn our feet. However you will see again and again, people dancing across the beach to the water. The water is warm and so clean you can see the bottom even neck high. Just another day in Paradise.

July 16 – Now here we are on the ship sailing towards Naples. Our last stop before disembarking Monday July 18^th. It’s true that time flies where you are having fun. This is my last blog until returning. I won’t bore you with all of the pictures but will post some on my facebook page when I return home. Until then, thanks for joining me.

2011-07-10T01:44:00.000-07:00

July 10, 2011

It’s been very busy since my last blog. We arrived London, sailing up the Thames, under the Tower Bridge and docking right next to the battleship Britannia across from the Tower of London. The Silver Cloud is the largest ship that can navigate this far up the river. It was quite an experience. Later that evening our group witnessed the “Ceremony of the Keys” at the Tower of London. It dates back to the early 1100’s when the Tower was locked and secured each evening at 9:00PM. Now this is a ceremonial tradition by invitation only.
Our 3 nights in Paris was a whirlwind or “Paris at a glance”. Because of the summer season (high season), we pre-arranged for tickets to go up the Eiffel Tower as well as a tour of the Opera House. This let’s you cut the line (not very popular but effective) once you show your confirmation to any staff member. Of course we stayed at my favorite hotel on the left bank (Hotel des Nations). It’s a great little hotel – small rooms but very neat and tidy and amazingly they have staff working there from 25 years ago. This is the same hotel a group of friends and I were at when 9/11 happened. I feel at though it’s home when in Paris. On July 7, our good friend, Luc drove us out of the city to visit Monet’s Gardens in Giverny. I had another reunion of friends from Normandy. Alan and Jacqueline drove to Giverny and met us. We had a wonderful time visiting the gardens and they joined our group for lunch at Hotel Ancient Braudy in Giverny. It was a beautiful day so we ate in the garden – a typical French experience. Luc is an excellent driver and good friend for almost 20 years.

The afternoon we visited the Palace of Versailles – a small, intimate summer cottage for the royalty of France until the French Revolution in the mid 1700’s. Even today one can see the opulence of the time. The beautiful fountains in the gardens were gravity fed so when the king walked along the path, someone was “running” ahead to turn one fountain off and the next one on for the king’s pleasure.
July 8 we flew from Paris to Rome – but not without a little excitement. Earlier that morning there was a protest at the airport, which shut most everything down for about an hour. We arrived more than 2 hours prior to departure but by the time we checked-in, tried to pay the extra bag charge of 55Euros, go through security (now the protesters were in their second wave and the riot police were called into action), and run to the gate, Jeff and I were the last to board the plane. Truth be told, after standing in two lines, asking staff after staff about the baggage payment as time was getting shorter and shorter, we never did pay the extra baggage fee.
Our first port was Messina Sicily. We organized a private driver and guide. Allesia was a wonderful guide to give us some history and some very interesting folklore. She also showed us many of the hand signs used. We drove up towards Mt Etna, the largest active volcano in Europe to visit the Gambini winery. What a secret gem. Our visit included a wine tasting experience with all sorts of cheese, salami, olives, eggplant, sundried tomatoes, mushrooms and crusted bread. We tried 2 white and 2 reds, after which time we were given a private tour of the processing by the owner. I wish we could have shipped it home but due to US customs policy, we could only enjoy it for the day.
This is our second day onboard the Celebrity Equinox. I have to admit we were a bit overwhelmed at boarding. At full capacity, it carries 3,000 guests!! However it is really planned well and easy to get around from place to place. There is the lawn club (real grass) for golf putting, bocce and to have picnics. The entertainment throughout the ship has been excellent venues in small club atmosphere. The meals have been great. But perhaps the most impressive is the service on this ship. Once a staff member learns your name, they greet you by name (how do they do that?). They all carry a ship’s phone to communicate between departments what a guest requests or perhaps a suggestion, and it is look after immediately. We are in concierge level so there was a separate check in area and our stateroom has a lovely balcony. Flowers and champagne were waiting for us in our cabin. Our steward, Joel has looked after everything, even to having Jeff’s shirt pressed by this afternoon. It’s formal tonight and we were just invited to one of the Officer’s table for dinner.

2011-07-04T03:12:00.000-07:00

July 4, 2011
Today we are at sea heading to London. We arrive about 6PM this evening. I understand this is the worst port for the crew and officers due to the many regulations and procedures. Our ship will be docked on one side of the Thames River just under the famous Tower Bridge and a tender is used to bring us across to the Tower pier. If you can imagine all supplies have to be transferred by tender, and passengers as well as all the luggage OFF and tomorrow evening all the luggage ON for the new guests. During the last week, we visited the small, scenic port of Invergordon which many guests took a tour to Loch Ness in the hopes of sighting “Nessie”. This tale has been told since 1933 when a newspaper decided to run a story about something splashing about in Loch Ness during a quiet news week. No sighting reported on this day though.
Our next port – Edinburgh is a beautiful city – dubbed “The Athens of the North”. I was very excited to return not to the city but to see my friends Jim and Joyce. A couple I met years ago on a tour of our National Parks in the US and we have kept in touch ever since. We spent our day at their friend’s home (Margaret and Dick) enjoying a garden lunch of all sorts of wonderful items including onion/potato quiche, salads, asparagus, fresh berries and cream. Before we knew it, it was almost 4PM and time to start back to the ship. On the way, we managed to squeeze in a visit to the town of Dunfermline. It’s steep in history starting about 1058 when it was the capital of Scotland. We visited the Dumfermline Abbey where Robert the Bruce is buried and we visited Andrew Carnegie’s Birthplace Museum. I wish we had more time – both to see the sights and enjoy my friend’s company.
Yesterday was our stop in Newcastle. My brother and his partner, Jason came onboard the ship. We saw each other last October when they were in the States and this was the first time for me to visit him since he made England his home almost 2 years ago. Rather than going into the city of Newcastle, we took a shuttle to the town of Tyne on the Tyne (I think that’s what they called it). It’s where the Tyne River empties into the sea. We strolled along the pretty main street where lots of flowers hung on the streetlights and flower boxes where ever you looked. Our walk ended at the old priory where we had a beautiful vista view of the coastline. The weather was picture perfect to enjoy the outdoors. It was so nice to see Dean and Jason. We came back onboard the ship and enjoyed lots of chatting with our friends sailing with me – a few Dean met last year on our wedding cruise. The world has certainly gotten smaller. No matter how difficult the airlines want to make traveling, learning about beautiful places and visiting family and friends make it all worth the trip.
But the best is yet to come – tomorrow we disembark in London, catch the EuroStar (chunnel) from London to Paris where Jeff is meeting us for the 2nd part of this adventure. As nice and wonderful everyone has been onboard, there was still something missing – my Jeff.

2011-07-01T09:01:00.003-07:00

June 30

Today we are sailing around northern Scotland en route to Ivergordon. This day at sea is welcomed as we’ve been in a different port each day. After visiting Falmouth, we arrived Cobh, Ireland June 27th. This port also allowed many of the passengers to visit Ireland’s 2nd largest city, Cork. Cobh is the port from which many set sail for the New World, including the last port of call for the Titanic. Since this is my 3rd time visiting this port and it was raining, it seemed a good idea to stay onboard and do some work. Yes, work. Being a hostess does have some responsibilities although when you are onboard such a high standard cruise line as Silversea Cruises, it makes my job very easy.

June 28th our next port was Dublin. A complimentary shuttle into town is just one of the benefits of sailing Silversea. Originally founded as a Viking settlement, it evolved and by the 17th century was the 5th largest city in Europe. Today’s population of 1.2 million makes it the largest city in Ireland. My friends and I took the Hop on/Hop off bus tour. These bus tours are really a nice way to get to know a city especially when time is limited. This evening our group of 15 enjoyed a private sail away cocktail party where the guest of honor was Captain Pontillo. Many of the ship’s staff also attended, even the chef.

Yesterday’s port was Oban. In Gaelic it means “little bay”. As we sailed into the bay, panoramic views were all around us – mountains, lochs and little islands scattered along the way. We anchored in the harbor and the tenders brought us right into the center of town. Although not raining, it was chilly and damp so the first item of business was to buy a pair of gloves. I found a blue pair of soft wool for 2GBP which will be added to my collection. You would think my 3rd time in Scotland and I would remember to bring scarf and gloves but I keep hoping the weather will clear. Actually by the afternoon the sun was shining and gave us a great opportunity to enjoy the scenery as our private group of 7 visited Inveraray Castle – home to the Duke of Argyll. Construction began in 1720 and by 1789, the 5th Duke of Argyll saw its completion. Now the 13th Duke (might be the 14th) and Duchess and their 3 children reside here and open it to visitors during the summer. Our guide, Bruce provided us with a tour of the interior with beautiful displays of tapestry, art and artifacts. The tour concluded in the Old Kitchen to have tea with scones, jam and cream – yummy. No tour is complete without a visit to the gift shop, where upon we met the Duke himself. A young man who enjoys meeting visitors and was happy to sign the souvenir guidebook available for purchase.
Tomorrow’s port visit is only about 5 hours – just enough time to head over to Loch Ness and see if “Nessie” is accepting visitors. Loch Ness is over 700’ deep and is deeper than the North Sea. Plenty of places to hide. As we continue sailing the east coast of Great Britain, I will have a chance to see friends in Edinburgh and my brother in Newcastle. Dean moved across the pond almost 2 years ago. I miss him.

2011-07-01T09:01:00.001-07:00

2011-06-27T04:36:00.001-07:00

June 25 - Yesterday we left London and headed west to Bath. Our first stop was to see Windsor Castle, still used by royalty to get out of London and enjoy the countryside. As a matter of fact, the Queen is here from Friday to Monday and most times will make the 45-minute drive herself. It may have been too early, as the flag was not flying to show that she was is residence. We witnessed a smaller version of the changing of the guards, walked through the gardens and followed the self-guided tour through the castle. It’s unusually cold for this time of year and all of us bought sweaters. By the afternoon en route to Bath, the rain started which seemed even colder. Bath is a beautiful city and our hotel is very central to the Roman baths and Cathedral. This evening I left my travel companions to visit with Bob and Joy who live just outside Bath. We had a great dinner together and caught up on all the news since we met on the QE2’s last Transatlantic crossing 3 years ago. I love this part of traveling. Meeting such nice people, staying in touch and the reunions – they are the best. The smiles, the open arms and embrace – I feel like I’ve returned home. Speaking of returning home, our companion, David was born just 15 minutes from Bath 60 years ago. At the age of 3 his parents immigrated to Australia and in memory of his father who passed away last year, he wanted to return to his family’s roots. The town of Wincanton is quite small, with a lovely village center. We followed the “H” sign for hospital wanting to see where David was born. This took us over hills, around corners and through two suburbs. I thought if anyone had an emergency, they wouldn’t make it to the hospital in time. As a matter of fact we think that may have happened to poor David in that his mother kept her legs crossed to get to the hospital in time and he was deprived of oxygen (giggle). We finally arrived, jump out of the car, took pictures of the sign, the building, the grounds only to be told “this hospital is new. The old one closed and the building condemned”. So much for going back. It’s beautiful countryside though and as the skies cleared and sun shined, we all felt very honored to accompany David on his journey home.

Now onboard the Silver Cloud, our first port yesterday was Falmouth located in the southwestern part of England, Cornwall area. This is our first time in this region so we organized a private car with Russ. You have to understand that Silversea Cruises’ passengers are sophisticated, well traveled and certainly well dressed at all times. As we left the ship there were 3 drivers waiting for guest…#1 with tie and suit. #2 with tie and suit and cap. #3 t-shirt, shorts and wind blown hair – YEH -that’s ours! Russ took us to St Michaels Mount. A smaller version of Mt. St Michel in northern France. The rocky island is home to the Aubyn Family who donated their castle home to the National Trust with the agreement that the family and heirs may live there for the next 100 years. The medieval church was just starting service when we arrived so we took time to listen to the bells and the music. A wonderful experience. We drove through Penzance where the Pirate festival had just finished the night before. A few of them were still staggering around. We were told up to 6000 “pirates” were there. Continued to Land’s End Peninsula where the views of the coastline are magnificent. At one time there were many copper and tin mines in the region – all are now closed, leaving many towns to suffer economic hardships. Slowly tourism is growing and bringing new life to this region. However, it’s so beautiful and serene, we should keep it a secret.

2011-06-23T09:16:00.000-07:00

June 23 – Arrived London yesterday morning somewhat refreshed. Delta’s new business elite class offers seats that stretch to full beds which is really very nice for overnight flights to Europe. Unfortunately the seats have very little cushion and are like park benches. The service has certainly improved – or perhaps it was the class rather than the staff. The real test will be our return flight from Rome when we sit “behind the curtain”.

Yesterday it rained most of the day. That was OK because by the time everyone arrived Flemings, Mayfair Hotel it was noon and time for a little celebration. We had the “champagne and cupcake” package so all of us enjoyed a delicious cupcake and a very nice glass of champagne to begin our month long holiday. Did a little looking around Harrods and before we knew it, it was evening, time for a visit to a local pub. Today the weather was much nicer and we took advantage of it by riding the hop on/hop off bus. It’s apparent I miss Jeff, I bought 6 tickets rather than 5 UGH. Of course they are nonrefundable so I gave a ticket to another tourist and told them “enjoy”. Jeff will be meeting us in Paris in 2 weeks. Our day included a photo stop at Buckingham Palace, visit to the Tower of London, and a cruise up the Thames as well as a visit to St James Palace. Tonight we are heading to the Queen’s Theater to see Les Mis. Tonight begins major cast changes now starring Alfie Boe – Thanks to my friend Carol who gave me notice that he would be back in the show.

Tomorrow we leave London for Bath with visits to Windsor Castle and Bleinhem Palace first. It’s certainly a whirlwind start but once we board Silversea Cruises on Saturday, we can relax and enjoy.

2010-09-28T08:14:00.000-07:00

Back Home - A week ago today we were still unsure how our wedding would come together. The staff and crew of Holland America's (HA) Veendam really came to our rescue as did the folks at the Sheraton Nassau Beach Resort. HA provided us with ship to shore communications for us to rebook our pastor. Wednesday evening our entire group was to dine in the Pinnacle Grill Restaurant onboard the ship. They provided champagne for our group and a menu that was over the top. This gave people a chance to meet one another and of course talk about what was going to happen the next day. However, HA also gave us reason to worry. They offered to print an invitation on some lovely cards I brought from home - just enough so one would be delivered per cabin. It was to say: Joyce Metz and Jeffrey Winterstein would be honored to have you attend their beach wedding on Thursday, September 23, 2010 at 5:00PM at the Sheraton, Nassau Beach Resort. All spaced and properly centered. but Thursday became WEDNESDAY and all of the invitations were printed wrong. HA offered to re-print using their stationary and have them delivered to the cabins early the next morning (Thursday). We received ours and everything looked perfect. Until my Maid of Honor showed me hers....HER name was on top of hers rather than Jeff's and mine. It seemed each invitation had the person's name on top to whom it was to be delivered - we now had 27 weddings. UGH. Our Australian friends organized two violinists from the ship to provide music on the beach while guests waited for the bride. But not without a list of needs - They didn't want to get sand on their feet, wanted an umbrella and out of the wind. Dear Jenny explained it's not their wedding and here are the facts...she can be very persuasive.
Mind you - I hadn't been to Nassau in years - many years. As a matter of fact, the hotel near town used to be a Sheraton which is where I thought we were going. As I pointed it out to Jeff, all giggley and excited that at 5PM there's the beach, Jeff says "I thought we were being married at the Sheraton. Why does that one say Hilton?" HILTON - oh no - the wrong hotel....a quick call to the Sheraton to see where it is and thanks to Denise at the Sheraton, arrangements made for round trip transfers from the port to the resort. Luisa and I had a wonderful afternoon at the ship's spa - the relaxation room, hair do's and make up. While everyone else was heading to the resort, we had a golf cart waiting by the ship to take us off the port and Jimmy (our taxi driver) waiting to take us to resort to arrive about 10 minutes after the group. Well, the golf cart decided the wait was too long so Luisa and I - all dressed up - hair do's blowing in the wind, dress hiked up, shoes off - RAN off the port (about a mile) to find Jimmy. Thank goodness HE waited. Through rush hour traffic in Nassau and out to Cable Beach and finally to the Sheraton. Denise from the Sheraton had organized a lovely area of their beach with chairs. Everyone was ready - Luisa walked down the beach first and I follwed escorted by my brother Dean. The ceremony was beautiful. The readings, the letters, and our private words between us before the vows meant so much. There's wasn't a dry eye in the group - including mine. THANK YOU to everyone who helped "get me to the church on time". Once back on the ship for cocktails on the aft deck - we watched the full moon rise and danced to music we compiled from everyone's favorite wedding song. HA offered continued bar service for dinner as our cocktail "hour" was about 10 minutes because we arrived so late. Chef Erik provided some special dishes for our private buffet - crab legs, shrimp, lamb shanks, steaks - a wonderful variety and delicious. And of course our wedding cake - chocolate with lemon chiffon frosting with the words "Life is sweet with you".
Jeff and I couldn't have planned a nicer wedding. It is certainly one for the books.

2010-09-21T09:39:00.000-07:00

Greetings. Our group set sail from NYC Harbor on a picture perfect day last Sunday onboard Holland America's ship Veendam. Sunny skies, calm seas followed us through the night and into Monday. However we were still unsure where we were headed due to IGOR's visit to Bermuda. Last night we found out - NOT Bermuda. I write this using the business center at a lovely hotel in CHARLESTON, SC. Yes - that is where we are. Many of you know we were here last week for the graduation of Jeff's son from Marine boot camp. It's still hot and humid here. One of our 40 guests sailing with us actually flew from here to NYC to board the ship. She's back home doing laundry right now. Tomorrow we go to - PORT CANAVERAL and visit DISNEYWORLD. It's been almost 15 years since I went to the Magic Kingdom. Our friends from Australia are jumping out of their skin with excitement seeing so much more of the US than they ever imagined. Dave is the biggest kid of us all - it will be great fun. Maybe Jeff and I can get mickey ears that say BRIDE and GROOM. and Thursday - the day of our wedding that was to be in Bermuda - we will now be in NASSAU Bahamas. Some friends can't make it. Because of the short notice of this change (we really wished Holland made a decision earlier), there are limited flights available. We were able to book flights for Pastor Tim and his wife Phyllis so he can officiate. The folks at the Bahamas Tourist Board are on all the paperwork and we have our eyes on a beach. IF we must go to plan D or E, we can get married on the ship while in port. However, Jeff and I were really hoping for a lovely pink sand beach against the tourquise blue water. So now it's a sugar white sand beach against blue waters. Our magical mystery tour planned for Bermuda has taken a much bigger life as this whole cruise has been named the magical mystery cruise. I really don't know what to make of all of this. But Jeff put it all back into perspective for me - he said whatever it takes to marry you - it's all worth it!!! You gotta love him.

2010-06-18T06:01:00.000-07:00

Black Sea Cruise

Monday June 14 – Odessa, Ukraine Built by Catherine the Great, this beautiful city has a more Mediterranean style. Buildings have a mixture of Art Nouveau, Renaissance and Classical. With over 1 million people, it’s Ukraine’s 3rd largest city with a lovely harbor. Our morning tour gave us the opportunity to learn about Odessa’s history as well as visit some 19th century palaces. Years ago, people were given large plots of land and expected to build their houses. Since they had lots of land, many of them built beautiful “petite” palaces and just as beautiful 2nd buildings next door which were (and still used today) as apartment houses. The same architect who designed the beautiful Odessa Opera House designed the first palace we visited. It was formerly owned by Count M Tolstoy (the writer’s family). Our next visit was to the Palace of Count Novikov now known as the Russian and Ukraine Literature Museum. Each room was beautifully decorated and housed original manuscripts and personal belongings of Pushkin, Bunin, Brodsky to name a few. To top off this interesting tour, we were treated to a glass of champagne and enjoyed a recital of classical music in the beautiful Golden Hall. Most everyone is pleasantly surprised by Odessa. It has wide tree-lined boulevards, well-kept buildings of yellow, white or salmon color and no litter on the streets. People take pride in their city and themselves. They stop to greet one another and even the tourist if we look lost. We like this port.

Tuesday – June 15 – Sevastopol – Also in the Ukraine but has a very different personality. It is the main seaport on the Crimean Peninsula. The Grafskaja Quay (boardwalk) was built in 1783 with beautiful white marble columns and a lovely park filled with roses now in bloom. As an important naval fortress, you can see lots of military ships in the harbor (even a Russian sub). Today we are heading into the countryside to Upensky Monastery. They know it was built into the mountain long before 1400’s but the exact age isn’t known. The church is a cave with a natural stone alter. A legend talks about the beautiful icon of the Virgin Mary housed in a small chapel. Three times it has been stolen and each time somehow it has returned to the same exact place. A Monk opens a small chapel for us to go inside to see the icon. Because of such a small place, we have to wait our turn. Most of our group members are already walking down to the main gate as the last of us are finally inside the chapel. There are 3 local women with 5 or 6 children also inside. A place of silence and reverence. The ladies and children begin to sing. WOW! What beautiful, angelic singing. It was truly a blessing to have had this experience. Sometimes it is worth being last.

We made our way to visit the Khan’s Palace known as the Palace of Gardens. Built in the 1500’s by slaves from Turkey and Iran, it was the home of the Crimean Khanate. They built a moat, walls with stalls for vendors, gardens (each with a different fountain), receptions rooms, and of course a building for his harem. It was said that the “Great” Khan did not have a heart – or that his heart was made of stone. One day, a young girl was brought into the harem. His heart jumped for joy and he fell in love. Within a year the girl died from loneliness being so far from her family. When she died, the great Khan wept for the first and only time of his life. He had a fountain built in her memory – now known as “Fountain of Tears”. Water drips from the top out of a small “eye” one drop at a time. It continues and splits into two areas “their hearts” in the middle of the fountain and eventually goes into a small pool. It was made famous by Pushkin’s poem.

2010-06-15T05:49:00.000-07:00

Sorry for not telling you, but I left town again. I’m onboard Regent Seven Seas ship, Mariner, as host for 30 passengers. We set sail Friday, June 11th from Istanbul for the Black Sea and will disembark June 21 in Athens. After over a four hour delayed departure from JFK, Delta finally got us to Istanbul late Friday afternoon. I was able to get an email advising our late arrival to the tour company we had arranged a private tour. What a feeling of relief you get when you walk through those last doors after customs, look through the huge crowd of people and see the little white sign with your name on it. Holding it is a young man with a big, friendly smile. He extends his hand and says “Miss Metz, Welcome to Istanbul”. Ugur is a knowledgeable, personable young man just starting his own in-bound tour company. His love and enthusiasm for his city is refreshing as he gives us a wonderful narration. Ugur is definitely on my list of special people to look after guests traveling to Istanbul. Literally this is where east meets west. One side of the city is in Europe and across the water you are in Asia. Istanbul has grown since my last visit 10 years ago. It’s much more modern, and things seem to be on an upswing. It’s 4PM, the ship doesn’t leave until 11PM tonight so we take advantage of the little time available. We visit the Blue Mosque from the outside. It’s “call to prayer” time and we will have to wait 20 – 30 minutes to visit the interior. Instead we walk over to St Sophia’s Church and to our luck it’s still open. A brief stop for some Turkish coffee and we head to the ship to board just in time for dinner. It’s a clear sky, a slight breeze and the city is lit up as we set sail at 11PM. I realize we’ve been up for days and suddenly the need for sleep overcomes me.
Saturday – June 12 -This morning we wake up to the port of Nesseburg, Bulgaria. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site due to its abundance of historic buildings including monuments dating back from the 5th century. Settled the beginning of the 5th century BC, it has been an important trading center along the Black Sea Coast. We decided to take the noontime tour rather than the 8AM, allowing for a leisurely morning of coffee delivered in our cabin to be enjoyed on our balcony. It’s a tough job, but I’ll do what I can. The afternoon walking tour through this picturesque seaside town gives us look. We pass no less than a dozen churches – only one we actually visit inside. Many of them are Orthodox, but one didn’t even look like a church from the outside. During the times when the Turks were in power, they finally gave permission for Christians to build a small church – no higher than a man standing on a horse. The building was sunk into the ground about 10’ to compensate. From the outside it looks like a grain storage building, one small window and what looks like a silo at the back side – from the inside this is the alter. What it lacks from the outside, the paintings, frescos and wood carvings certainly make up on the inside. Our tour also takes us about 30 minutes outside the city where we have a wine tasting of 6 different kinds of wine. Two whites, one rose and three reds. They were actually surprisingly good. I purchased a few bottles of the rose to give as “thank you” gifts to staff onboard the ship. This evening is Captain’s welcome party. One big difference from many of the other ships – NO FORMAL NIGHTS. Every night is “elegant casual”.
Sunday – June 13 – Another beautiful day in the Black Sea as we visit Constanta, Romania. This morning gives us a chance to relax, do some paperwork and organize the group’s cocktail party. Make some calls to officially welcome everyone. This afternoon’s tour of Romania’s 2nd largest city after Bucharest begins at the National History and Archeology Museum which traces ancient Greek colonies of Histria, Tomis and Callatis from 2500 years ago through to modern day. Our afternoon also includes a wine tasting and folkloric show giving us an idea of the customs and traditions in various regions of Romania. The wine? Mmm – let’s just say we didn’t have to buy any from this selection. We are about to set sail with a beautiful sunset in store for all of us.

2010-05-29T07:16:00.000-07:00

Peru to Cusco and Sacred Valley

May 24 – During our visit to Peru, we’ve been learning about the Inca history - sometimes referred to as the “lost civilization” because they seemed to have disappeared after only a little more than 300 years of existence. Today we leave Puno and travel on the Andean Explorer rail to Cusco – the ancient capital of the Incas. Our journey of 228 miles will take about 9 hours over beautiful terrain and of course across the Andes. This luxury train provides comfortable seating, breakfast, lunch and high tea. Along the way we are treated to local entertainment, a fashion show and a mixology course to make Pisco sours. Our train travels right through the region’s capital, Juliaca. Stalls have been set up actually on the tracks. As the train slowly makes its way, folks scramble to move aside leaving just enough room for the train to pass. This goes on for miles and miles. Market stalls for every kind of local shopping. People wave to us as we past and seem to make a game of this. The highest elevation during the trip is 14,162’ – where we make a brief stop to change tracks and wait for the train coming from the opposite direction to pass. Guess what we found – shopping. It’s amazing in the middle of nowhere on top of the mountain ladies have set up stalls of local handicrafts. Enroute we will pass through small villages and see dramatic scenery from over the barren mountain range down to the fertile farms along the Vilcanota River into Cusco. By the time we arrive Cusco, one member of our group has taken 1400 pictures of just this day.

May 25 Cusco is 11,000’ but we are now used to the high altitude and get right into our visit of this sacred city thought to be the center of the earth by the Incas. And why not? It’s location between two river valleys with very fertile land provided great resources and protection. Today we see how the Incas were great engineers and architects by visiting two ruins – Sacsayhuaman and Koricancha (the Sun Temple) now the Convent of Santa Domingo. At Sacsayhuaman we see walls built of stones weighing nearly an average of 80 tons (the largest however is 361) each moved from a quarry about 10 miles away. The stones (like most of the Inca’s structures) are so well engineered that even today you cannot get even a piece of paper between the walls. Koricancha monument was one of the most important in the entire empire. They found burnt offerings in thanks to the sun. Smaller rooms were devoted to the moon, stars, lightning and rainbows. This place also served as a solar observatory and mummy storehouse. While there were many gold and silver deities throughout this temple, Inca’s believed the real wealth was in the abundance of food and water.

May 26 – 28

Before getting to Machu Picchu, one must past through the Sacred Valley but better to take a few days to visit. From the snow-capped mountains to the Urubamba River, this was (and still is) perfect climate for agriculture. It was the most populated area by the Incas. The entire Inca civilization covered from Ecuador to the north down to Chile and parts of Columbia and Brazil and grew to about 15 million total. Our visits included the ruins of Pisac Fortress – the largest of Inca fortresses and sits high on top of a hill. Most of their construction is high on the mountains as I will tell you about during the one-day hike on a portion of the Inca trail which brought us into Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate. Pisac is a picturesque Andean village with a lively local market around the main square.

Ollantaytambo – 2600” above sea level – The town is the only one in Peru that conserved it streets of stones with most of the Inca construction still intact. It is an example of how the Incas divided their cities into blocks. It shows 3 specific regions or plan the Incas had for every village – the agricultural is seen by the many many terraces used to grow crops. The 2nd region was urban for daily life of the Incas and the 3rd was for religious ceremonies. Our visit to this fortress continues to show their wonderful architecture skills and planning.

By now our group is ready for the icing on the cake – Machu Picchu. Due to the heavy rains last January, we are taken by bus to a bus depot where we change to a minivan. And when you see the very narrow, dirt road, it’s amazing anything gets through. We arrive Ollanta to board the train to Aqua Calientes and from there yet another bus along the switch back road up – up – up to the entrance of Machu Picchu. But for 4 of us we “jump” the train at marker 104 to begin our one-day hike along the Inca Trail to arrive Machu Picchu high above the site. We carried back packs with water, sunscreen, bug repellent, sunglasses, hat and lunch. They say the first 4 hours is the hardest because it is a lot of up and down on uneven stones directly along the cliff of the mountains with very little cover from the sun. We took lots of rests to view and take pictures. Once in awhile we could see the train tracks – but they looked so small from our vantage. Mid day we arrive to Winayhuayna – an amazing Inca site in the middle of the cloud forest so high ontop of the mountains you can almost touch the sky. This is truly spectacular. Here we stop for lunch and admire the many terraces and rustic dwellings. How did they get all those rocks up so high?? But all too soon we have to continue our journey another 3 hours to reach the Sun Gate. We are now in the forest, cool and lots of plant life. Many wild orchids – we are told there are over 2000 different species of orchids. The walk is hard for me, I will admit it. There were times I wondered what did I get myself into. But there was no turning back – just the vision of looking over Machu Picchu gave me strength to put one foot in front of the other. Until we came to an area – no walking – but climbing. Climbing hand and feet - pulling yourself up higher and higher. Even with lunch gone the pack back seemed so heavy. I was so tired. But we finally made the top – to be told only one more hour to walk. Again the hike goes up and up and up. And finally – you see part of a stone gate and those ontop are giving you support – come up you can make it –this is it – keep climbing. I climbed and climbed and together one of my hiking companions took each other arm and arm to turn the corner. 180 degree view of Machu Picchu in all its glory. I can give you all kinds of words but I will only say that it’s a feeling you get few times in your life. A feeling of great physical accomplishment because when you start you wonder "will I make it". You don't let on. You keep going. And when you finish and have that feeling, it will live in you forever – savor it.

2010-05-23T20:44:00.000-07:00

We returned to Puno this afternoon. What a fantastic few days. After our brief tour of Lima which included the 16-century convent, San Francisco and access to the catacombs said to house over 25,000 people as well as a visit to the National Museum of Archeology. We departed Lima mid afternoon and arrive Puno by night, the jumping off city to visit Lake Titicaca. Up a little over 13,000', I begin to get symptons of high altitude sickness and for the next 24 hours I really don't remember much. Our guide recognizes immediately my condition while we have dinner in town and provides a cotton ball of rubbing alcohol to put around my face and breathe deeply the smell. Within minutes I seem to be OK long enough to return to the hotel. But throughout the night my condition, well, let's just say I never want to repeat a night like that - nor a day like the following one. We had to leave the hotel early but my mind was in such a cloud, a few folks had to help me repack, get dressed and get on a minivan and then on a 12 passenger boat on Lake Titicaca to get to Isle Suasi. Of course this is the day to see the Uros Islands or floating islands. For centuries these people's way of life are centered around the "totora: or reed. They cut and pile to form giant floating islands which are anchored to the shallow bottom of the lake. I was off the boat and int he warm sun hoping to feel better. Each of us was invited by a local to visit their hut. Melinda was motioning me to follow her which I did. It was a strange sensation walking across all of the reeds piled on the water and wondering will it really hold me. Once in the doorway of the hut, my stomach started rumbling, I broke out in a sweat and figured I had 10 seconds to get myself over the edge. I ran across the entire floating island holding my mouth. Once behind our boat, a few noises, and I knew I was finally on the road to recovery. I missed most of the tour to our 2nd island, Taquile. This is not a floating island but an island about 4 miles long and 3/4 miles wide. They are known for eleborate and colorful costumes. Here you could stay overnight with one of the families to get a great experience of what it's like living on this beautiful (but isloated) area. Our destination is much more to Joyce's standards,(although 3 hours away from Puno by boat) Isle Suasi. This privately owned island has allowed Casa Andina to build a small hotel where you can't help but unwind, relax and settle in. There are opportunities to take one of 4 hikes, canoe around the island, go bird watching, have a massage, or read a book on the terrace while only the lapping of the water on the beach will be heard. There are 3 kinds of animals living on the island, alpaca, vecunas (similar to a deer) and vecaches. Now these little creatures are a delight to watch. They have a tail of a squirrel, a body of a rabbit with long whiskers like a cat and they can sit back on their haunches like a kangaroo and jump up to 15 feet. This island is truely heaven on earth. The sky is a bright blue with just a few puffy white clouds and the sun is warm (got low 80's) but the evenings get very windy and cold (high 30's) and we even had a fast and furrious rain showere the first evening. But that gave way to a 2nd evening of late-night star gazing - absolutely beautiful. All too soon, we had to say our goodbyes to this beautiful place, get back on the boat for our 3 hour boat ride and head to Puno. And what a ride. The wind picked up and the waves were crashing over the top. Spray and mist everywhere. Sometime during this trip it was brought to our attention when you see white caps on the water it means the water is smiling and showing its teeth. I'm not sure this water was smiling, it looked more angry. Finally after 30 minutes of rocking and rolling the "seas" calmed down and we enjoyed our trip back to Puno which is where we are tonight. Tomorrow we board our train from Puno to Cusco - 9-hour ride through some of the most beautiful scenery in all Peru.

2010-05-19T21:58:00.000-07:00

Our last afternoon in the Amazon was spent visiting one of the small villages along one of the tributaries. Although dressed in traditional garb, we knew this was purely for our benefit. But it's important for the tribes to keep traditions and this is a way for them to pass from one generation to another as well as give us a glimpse of their life not so long ago. We had our turn at the blowgun. I hit the target twice. We learned the difference between poisonous (plants are poisonous as well as darts) and venomous (snakes and spiders). We learned a few new dance steps too. The idea of "Amazon women" came as a result when Spaniards saw people in grass skirts and what looked liked long hair. It wasn't long hair but rather grass headdresses with a long back for brushing bugs away. From afar, they looked like very big women and thus the story started.
PARACAS - Yesterday morning (tuesday) we left the Amazon with all its greenery and lush jungle to arrive in Paracas. We drove over 4 hours along the desert coastline south of Lima. This is very dry, rugged and very little vegetation. It's a hard life for people in this region. Today our morning visit was to the Ballestas Islands just off the coast. Some say a "mini" Galapagos. Known to have the world's largest collection of sea birds, it was an amazing sight. We saw: Cormorants, Frigate birds, Peruvian pelicans, boobies, and the endangered Humboldt penquins. Of course we saw sea lions as well. Thanks to these birds, their guano (poop) they produce is a highly coveted fertilizer ingredient making it 1 of 3 main industries (the other 2 are salt and fish meal)
The afternoon was another adventure as we took to the air in a small cessena to view the Nazca Lines. Scientsits are still baffled by these picture lines that include a monkey, spider, dog, hummingbird, just some of over 200 designs etched in the earth and can only be seen by the air. Discovered in the 1920's, the first of these were probably made around 400bc and are still in tact.
We're now in Lima for one night. After a brief tour of the city tomorrow, we fly to Lake Titicaca. We will be just over 10,000. WOW.

2010-05-17T19:44:00.000-07:00

Peru Amazon May 15, 2010

We arrived Iquitos, the main city in Northern Amazon, mid-day on Saturday. Known to be the largest city in the world that is not accessible by road. It’s a melting pot of various Indian groups blended with immigrants of Italy, the Philippines, China and of course Spain. Our drive from the airport to the pier introduced us to this busy, crowded, noisy, hot city. We passed a market that went on and on for many streets and a house known as “Iron House”, designed by Gustav Eiffel (Eiffel Tower) and shipped in pieces by a wealthy rubber businessman in the late 1800’s. Within minutes of leaving the dock, we were in a different world. Our 45 minute ride along the Amazon brought us to our home for the next 3 nights, Cieba Tops Lodge. The most comfortable of the 5 jungle lodges owned by Explorama. The staff are very friendly. Our buffet meals are made from local produce, fish and goes down great with local beer. Each group is assigned a guide for the duration of our stay. Willy (named after William Shakespeare – really) is wonderful. Less than an hour of our arrival, our first adventure was a hike around the jungle area of Ceiba Tops pointing out various plants and trees such as the “telephone” tree. It’s trunk has 3 or 4 hollow sections of different sizes (for different tones) provides a way for tribes to communicate. We finished at the giant Ceiba Tree for which our lodge gets its name. It stands 145 high and is about 400 years old. A magnificent tree with branches that reach so high, it seems to touch the sky. The locals believe there is spirit in everything about the Amazon. Looking at this tree, you can feel it’s life, its spirit.

Sunday - our 2nd day we left 5:45AM for our 2-hour river boat ride to the Napo River. Our first stop was to enjoy breakfast at the Napo Lodge (also owned by Explorama), more rustic and certainly gives you the sense of being in the jungle. We continued by open boat further into the jungle to yet another even more rustic lodge (ExplorTambos Camp)– about 75 miles from our “home”. We get introduced to a capybara, an aquatic rodent or the biggest rat you will ever see with webbed-like hooves. They can get up to 400lbs. This one is just a baby weighing in at about 200. It’s the camp’s pet. It makes cooing sounds and even rolls over for a tummy rub. Our short hike takes us to the Amazon Canopy Walkway where we begin our ascent into the trees. Opened in 1993 by ACTS, Amazon Conservatory of Tropical Studies, this is a research station for scientists. There are 14 platforms which are connected by suspended walkways extending about one-third of a mile reaching a height of 118 feet above the rainforest. It’s an amazing walk and gives you a vantage point to see the vastness of the rainforest. As you walk, listen and watch. Monkeys, birds, anteaters, and so much more of the Amazonian wildlife is possible. After a full morning, our afternoon included a short walk into the botanical gardens to hear about the medicinal value of many of the plants in the jungle. As the shaman spoke Spanish and Willy translated. He showed us remedies for upset stomach, arthritis, bruises, burns. The one I thought was most interesting was a specific species of a black ant about 3 times larger than our carpenter ants. Their pinchers are used as souchers for cuts. They put the ant on the open cut, the pinchers close and they separate the body, locking the pinchers around the skin.
This evening’s dinner we enjoyed an anniversary celebration of friends. The staff turned off the lights, and strolled around our table playing guitars and singing by the light of cell phones. Yes, it seems technology has invaded even the deep dark jungle of the Amazon. However, they are not as addicted of the need to be in constant contact with each other by phone. We have been here for 3 days and not once have I heard one of their phones ring. Not quite the same for the tourist I’m afraid. We even have free WIFI. It’s amazing how many tourists congregate in the lobby with laptops and cell phone. I suppose at this very minute I too am guilty.

Monday – another early morning. They say the early bird catches the worm but this morning we went out to catch the bird. Our bird watching adventure was very successful. Sightings included, the Laughing Falcon, Snail Kite, small white headed “Grampa” birds and too many to name. We’ve seen beautiful McCaws, the largest in the parrot family. This morning we saw the range from the smallest, parolet, to parakeet, to parrot to macaw. Back in time for a quick breakfast and off in the boats again to fish for piranhas. If you read my old blog from the Brazil Amazon visit, you will get an idea about fishing for these guys. Once again our group was very successful with a total of 4 (yes I caught one again). They were included on our lunch menu.

Is there a difference between the Brazil side and Peru side – absolutely. Peru means great abundance and it certainly lives up to its name. This country is the 3rd largest in South America. Almost 70% of Peru is jungle making it as accessible, biologically diverse and comfortable to a traveler of any degree. Even with most creature comforts of home, this is wild jungle. This is mother nature in all of her wonder and amazement. One comes here not to see but to experience.

2010-01-14T15:15:00.000-08:00

Our days in Cairo gave us a wonderful experience to Ancient Egypt. One of our busiest days was going to Memphis, the original capital of Egypt. We visited the sight known as Dahshur to understand the progression of the construction of pyramids. The oldest one is called the Bent Pyramid because midway through it’s building the angle had to be changed from 56o to 43o in order for it not to collapse. Right next to it is the 2nd oldest pyramid with a larger base to calculate the 56o. We also visited a small outdoor museum that included a Sphinx made from Alabaster. It was beautiful. The afternoon was spent at and area called Sakkara (or Saqqara). Although I had been to the Step-Up pyramid, this place is much more. It’s really a huge archaeological site with at least two smaller pyramids, and mastabas (smaller tombs). Today we actually got to go inside one of the tombs. The entrance is very low and even I have to walk bent over. It’s steep but there are railings to hang onto until it opens up to a chamber. We walk through the chamber and continue into another shaft to walk further down into the pyramid until finally we are in one of 3 rooms. Everywhere there are pictures and texts; some still with color. Imagine these are over 4500 years old and still the color can be seen. Yes, even I made the trip down into the tomb but you can be sure I didn’t stay very long. Because it is very narrow and you must retrace your steps, some people hadn’t even arrived as I was making my way back up to the surface. It was only after the visit that our guide explained how lucky we were that the electricity worked because the last few times the power went out and it is very dark in the tomb. Probably would’ve woken up the dead if that had happened while I was down there.

Leaving Cairo we had to get to the airport by 5:00AM for our flight to Abu Simbel. However, because of dense fog, our flight was delayed 2 hours so our guide had to juggle the schedule in order to see everything on our itinerary for the day. She did a marvelous job. The area we are visiting was once Nubia. This is where most of the gold was mined in ancient Egypt to give us some of the most beautiful artifacts found in King Tut’s Tomb. Although he was not considered an important king during his time, many of the items were solid gold. I can only imagine what would’ve been in the more important kings such as Ramses II had it not been for the tomb robbers. When we finally arrived, we went directly to Abul Simbel which is actually two temples side by side - one for King Ramses II and the other to his most beloved royal wife, Queen Nefirtari. I’m in awe for two reasons. Built in the 1st century, it is the largest of 7 temples in Nubia carved into the sandstone mountain. With such precision, this was built so that twice a year (on Ramses II birthday and on his coronation day), the sun shines through the galleries and onto the faces of the seated figures deep inside the sanctuary. Fast forward in today’s modern world to the 1960’s of the building of the Aswan Dam when these two temples had to be moved to higher ground as they were threatened for the rising lake water. The US, Egypt and 12 other countries worked together moving over 10,000 pieces weighing an average of 30,000 tons of blocks of stone piece by piece and then putting it back together, 300” above Lake Nasser. This in itself was an amazing accomplishment. It was reconstructed with the same precision; the sun shines through the galleries’ twice a year but one day later due to the fact of being 300’ higher. (February 22 and October 22). I think how much can be accomplished when countries work together for an important cause rather than fighting.

We have had a marvelous time visiting Egypt. Although I was here only a year ago, it was certainly not enough. There are do many temples and so much history and so much shopping. One could get over “templed” (like going to Europe on the “church” tour). I bought a great little guide book “The Great Temples of Egypt” – it’s small, lightweight and gives a one-page description of 15 temples with great pictures too.

While on the 3-night Nile cruise, our group had a chance to relax a bit and get to know one another. We are from all over the US with very different backgrounds which makes it interesting. A few couples are traveling together but for the most part we all mingle with one another without grouping ourselves. There are some birthdays and anniversaries being celebrated. What a great way to celebrate! And Tauck really helps to make the celebration special. Last night while enjoying a Felucca (a sail boat with ancient designs) along the Nile during sunset, one of our members celebrated her 60th Birthday. While we enjoyed a choice of soft drinks, wine or beer and lots of yummy snacks, our tour director presented the birthday girl with a beautiful chocolate ice cream cake and we all sang. Tauck thinks of every detail. Many of the places we visit won’t allow cameras but Tauck provides small guides for us to have a souveniers.

Looking foward to returning to Jordan tomorrow. I brought pictures from last year's trip to hand out to people. Those I gave out in Egypt were so happy to receive them. Especially the hawkers and camel riders. Nobody ever thinks of them. I had one guy offer me use of his camel for the rest of the day when I gave him a picture I took of him last year. It's amazing such a small effort brings a grea deal of joy.

2010-01-05T07:45:00.000-08:00

Egypt 2010

They say you can never go back but I don’t believe that. I never thought that in less than one year I would return to Egypt. The sights may be the same but there’s always something you missed before. There’s so much to see and learn here that for many it’s a life-long commitment. We left Cairo airport just in time to witness a beautiful sunset. The sky was blazing with pink, red as far as you could see. It goes down quickly. The driving here hasn’t changed one bit. As a matter of fact, driving through Cairo at night is not for the weak. We went along the ring road to avoid downtown traffic and yet it was bumper to bumper. There are bright street lights to pave the way and for that reason, drivers see little reason to put their headlights on. Headlights are used to find the exit ramp or to communicate that it’s safe for the one passing you to get in front or to avoid hitting those people taking a walk to cross the 3 or 4 lanes of highway traffic. We finally reached our hotel, the Mena House located in Giza and sits in the shadows of the Great Pyramids. It was originally built as a hunting lodge in the early 1800’s and sold in 1869 to be converted to a hotel. Today it is set on 40 acres with over 400 rooms. It was host to signing of the peace agreement between Egypt and Israel in 1979.
After a light dinner, my friends and I decided to stroll through the hotel and admire some of the beautiful Islamic design and furnishings. We passed by a private room where a party was going on so we took a peak. It was the rehearsal dinner for a Greek couple, Popi and Tossos. Before we knew it, people were taking us by the arms and inviting us in to the celebration. We danced with everyone and had a wonderful first night in Egypt.
The following morning we were off to Alexandria (ALX to the locals). It’s a 3-hour drive with not much to see so it gave us time to take a nap. As soon as we arrived, we were off sightseeing which included Cavafty’s House (Greek Poet), the Pompei Pillar and the Catacombs. It is really sad to see how much Alexandria has deteriorated over the years. Even the new buildings look old and sad. Being on the Med. Sea adds so much opportunity for visitors. This could be a beautiful jewel for Egypt with so much history including Cleopatra and Mark Anthony. We’re only here for one night and back to the Mena House tomorrow.
This morning we met our other traveling companions for Tauck Tours. There are 31 of us total. I must admit I miss our “tribe” of 20 from last year. Within a few hours everyone knew everyone’s name and we were all getting along so well.
It’s the end of the day and I know 3 names. Perhaps it’s the jetlag. This morning we visited the Great Pyramids, including the Cheops Boat. Imagine finding a wooden boat that is over 4000 years old. It was so perfectly sealed at the base of the Pyramid that when it was found in 1954, even some of the rope was still in the tomb. This time I took the camel ride to get that infamous picture in front of the 3 pyramids. Tauck arranges things to the detail. They gave us a roll of one-pound Egyptian coins for the toilets (everyone has to pay to use a toilet, even in the restaurants), arranged for a group photo in front of the pyramids and even gave us 5 Egyptian pounds each to give our camel attendant as a tip. At this rate I won’t have to be digging into my wallet much.

2010-01-01T17:41:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year. Why wait to travel - today I am off to Cairo Egypt with Tauck Tours. Actually their tour starts January 4th but some of us wanted to also visit Alexandria so we decided to go a few days earlier and will meet the rest of our tour January 4 at the Mena House in Cairo. All checked in for Delta nonstop JFK to Cairo and the place is full - full full full. Almost 11 hours of flying time so it's good to pace yourself. Window or Aisle? The window is nice to lean on while you are folded up like a pretzel to sleep but of course some people prefer the aisle for the convenience of getting up. I say the window and if I have to get up, just wake up your new best friend next to you. Getting up and walking/stretching has been limited anyway so just hook up to your Ipod, get your neck pillow out, put the eye mask on and chill. I still find the special ordered meals a bit better than the choice of "leather or feather" - tonight is the low sodium. We are sitting in the Delta lounge, enjoying some wonderful snacks (maybe we can ask for a doggy bag), and a glass of wine. Too bad the seats on the plane aren't as big as these. Enjoy it while we can.

2009-12-05T06:44:00.001-08:00

Nov 30, 2009 - Two days ago we left Barcelona for Madrid. Our mode of travel was the fast train (known as AVE – Alta Velocidad Espanola) which only takes about 3 hours for the journey. There’s only one stop en route, Zaragoza. The highest speed was 302k/h (over 200 miles/hour) and it felt as smooth as silk. The train is very modern, clean, comfortable with big windows to watch the countryside whisk by.
Although Madrid is slightly larger than Barcelona, it seems much more crowded. Perhaps it’s the construction. Everywhere you turn, on every street it seems there is something being torn up. And a lot of it looks like it will be many people’s life-long careers by the way the work is going.
Another hop on/hop off bus gave us a great introduction and helped to figure out how to get around. A special treat came about mid way of the tour when the sunset. Now we enjoyed the Christmas lights all over the city. In every plaza there was a BIG metal tree that was outlined by lights and had snowflakes of lights in the middle. Each plaza was a different color theme. Strung across streets were lighted decorations as well. There was a street with little snowflakes as far as you could see. Another had Christmas ornaments, and another had halos – all in beautiful bright colors. It’s really magical to travel during the holidays.
Our visits included the Prado, Madrid’s premiere museum. Evenings it’s free so we took advantage of this as well as the fact that we will have 2 full days to enjoy other sights. The Prado gives one an opportunity to learn about the great Spanish painters such as El Greco, Velazquez and of course, Goya. The following morning we are met by Christina, our personal guide. She takes us through the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum (the locals fondly refer to it as “the Thyssen”). Baron Hans Heinrich Thyssen-Barnemisza and his son collected more than 800 items from paintings, sculpture, carvings, tapestries as well as silver and gold that make up this private collection. They acquired such an array from various times that it’s like a history lesson of Western art. After Christina shows us the highlights (3 hours), she takes us on a wonderful walking tour of the historic area of Madrid. Along the way, we see the produce market, we see the special Christmas market, and get some suggestions for restaurants along the way.
Monday most museums are closed but the Royal Palace is open so we venture across the city to visit this beautiful building built in the 18th century. Since it’s my birthday, I think how fitting to be in a palace. The royal families across Europe really knew how to decorate over the top and this palace is no exception. Every room is full of walled tapestries, painted ceilings with gold leaf, and crystal chandeliers. We made dinner reservations at the Teatre Real (Royal Theater) Restaurant inside the Royal Opera House. Although there are no performances (opening night is Friday), the restaurant is open and gives us a glimpse of the theater as we are escorted to the 2nd level and have to walk through three royal waiting rooms before entering the restaurant. We learn that the restaurant was actually a ballroom and lavish dances and parties would be held the same time as the performances so people could go from “seeing” a performance on stage to “being” the performance in the ballroom. This is a magnificent place. Through the night there would be only a total of 4 tables of patrons. It’s like having our own private dining experience. Each course is better than the last. It’s served with such attention and genuine care to be sure we are enjoying it. But the best course of the entire evening wasn’t served by our waiter, Louis. It was served by Jeff when he got down on bended knew and proposed to me. He presented me with the engagement ring of his mother’s. It’s so beautiful. It is indeed the most wonderful birthday.

2009-11-30T15:56:00.001-08:00

Even with the tail winds, we managed to arrive Barcelona almost an hour earlier than expected on Thanksgiving morning. It was still dark outside. Barcelona airport is new, modern, bright, clean and inviting to the weary traveler. Going through immigration and customs was a breeze. By 8:00am we were checked into the hotel, luggage held in the back and we are waking up with Barcelona. We are on Las Ramblas, the main street that runs from the port to Plaza De Catalunya and takes a little over 35 minutes to stroll. We are told Rambla means “stream” in Arabic. It was the drainage ditch along the medieval wall along what is now Barri Gotic (Gothic Quarter). Fortunately there is no sign of anything draining – except a pocket or wallet of the tourist. We see the street cleaners, sweeping up leaves with an old fashion broom and gathering them in what looks like a big plastic beach bag. No noisy leaf blowers. As people walk along the street, they greet one another with a handshake and kiss. They take time to say hello – no connection to cell phones or electronic gadgets. As a matter of fact, we see very little public use of electronics. The old gents are gathered on the park benches watching the young female executives walk by. And why not, this season’s fashion deserves to be looked at and admired. Black leggy boots healed boots go up almost to their thighs with a short skirt to meet the top of the boots, a knee length sweater and scarf. A slightly different version with boots is the skin tight, spandex, leatherette leggings, the boots and a sweater that almost covers your bottom and you have this season’s fashion. The locals love their boots. I’m jealous because my swollen feet would never fit into this stylish apparel on a good day much less just after a 7 hour plane ride. I won’t even think about a pair of those leggings.
Las Ramblas is split into various sections. The top part of Catalunya Square is very busy. Lots of lanes of traffic. This seems to be where everything meets just to go around the square and head somewhere else. The next section has bird kiosks. These permanent little structures unfold to show not only birds but also small animals to purchase as pets. Besides parakeets, doves and other birds, we saw turtles, iguanas, baby rabbits, and guinea pigs, even mice. There was every kind of cage and special food to go with your purchase. Along the street we also saw the local street entertainers getting ready. There is quite a sub-culture. They all arrive between 9 and 9:30 to set up. But before they get to business, they all greet one another; get some coffee, maybe read a page or two of the local paper. Then, with an internal clock, they know how long it will take for them to get ready and when the first of thousands of tourist that day will start strolling the street. Many of them with elaborate make up and paint, some with huge wings to put on, others with detailed props to set up – all in the hopes that tourists will choose them to throw some change into a small tin that’s just in front of them (most of these tins are tied to their ankle or goes somewhere underneath their costume). One by one they get ready. It’s really amazing to witness the transformation.
The next section is the flower market. It smells wonderful. So many beautiful flowers to choose from; a single stem, an entire bouquet or perhaps an arrangement; it’s all here. With the sun shining and clear sky, this is a perfect morning to be in Barcelona. To our right is La Boqueria Market of all kinds of produce. When in Spain, you must try the ham. It’s not just any ham but there are levels according to the quality. The black-footed ham is the best, dry and not very salty. The name comes from the pigs in the forest that feed on mostly walnuts. It’s of course the most expensive, the caviar of ham. We pass a stall with full legs of ham hanging. I ask for a slice to sample and the young man offers a slice of each of the 5 variations, saving the best for last of course. I offer to pay him and he insists not to take the money. Another stall has over 25 different kinds of olives. And another has cheese. Turn left and you’re in the fish market. The locals have the essential personal shopping bag on rollers. Bringing your own bag to the grocery store is a fairly new idea in the US (I still forget to bring them with me) but here it’s been a way of life. These look like those expandable bags with wheels you pack inside your suitcase to have handy for souvenirs that won’t fit in your luggage. But today they are full of delicious food.

Barcelona is the 2nd largest city of Spain only to Madrid. During our 2 days here, we are introduced to the city by the hop/on – hop/off tour bus. Although there are 14 works of Gaudi’s, we decided to visit La Pedera which means stone quarry because it’s made to look as though it was carved out of a huge rock. The apartment house was built for Pere Mila and his wife who lived on the main floor and rented the rest of the apartments out (one floor is an entire home). Even today, there are private residences here each with it’s own entrance. One floor is open to the public to show how people from the turn of the early 20th century lived here. But the reason for the visit it the rooftop. You get a great view of the city and have fun wondering around the different shaped chimneys (30 of them).

Barcelona is full of surprises. Walking back to the hotel the first evening, someone gives us a flyer for a concert of Spanish Classical Guitar. The church is just around the corner so let’s enjoy. It was a wonderful way to finish a busy day. Another great surprise was the “Festival of Olive Oil” we found near another smaller market. This is their 1st annual event and it was free. People were given a form to rate each of the 10 different producers of olive oil. They were from various area of Catalunya – the region of Spain we are in. I didn’t realize how different olive oil to taste until now. As a reward for filling out the forms, each of us was given a free bottle of olive oil.

2009-10-29T16:24:00.000-07:00

It's already Friday morning here and we are actually on our second part of the tour. Let me say Macau and Hong Kong are like night and day. Macau, although also a big city, still has a lot of older buildings dating back to when the Portuguese controlled Macau. Macau is one of 3 islands that make up Macau region. This largest one now has a bridge connecting it to mainland China. The Portuguese were here from the mid 1500's up to when it was handed over to China in 1999 and this influence is still seen in it's people, the buildings, some of their culture and certainly in their food. We enjoyed a wonderful Portuguese lunch at Antonio's from black-footed ham to baby clams in garlic, an amazing chicken and coconut dish and of course Portuguese wine to wash it all down. To cross over to the Chinese culture, we stopped at a local tea house. More like a takeout tea house. One would tell the lady what sort of ailment and she mixes different blends of tea leaves and for $10.00MOP (about 1.50), you get a big cup of tea. With the help of our tour guide, Alfredo, I suggest something for good digestion thinking ahead. She mixes a few herbs, add some water (I think it was water) and gives me something that looks like sludge. Black, thick and smelly. mmmm - now what. So I tasted it ever so slightly. Heartily offered some to my new travel companions (hoping to get rid of it). Two others took sips and together we concurred it is better to have indigestion. As I'm limited in time, I will fast forward to last night's dining experience. Our hotel - the Mandarin Oriental hosted a Chinese Banquest for us that never quit. Nine - yes nine courses. Of course they were itsy bitsy courses but still so much food and so many different tastes. During each course the chef came out to give a description and explain the ingredients. I was doing really well as each course seemed better than the last. However one course gave me reflection - it was moving. Now many of you know that I sent a notice to the people who extended this invitation that stated very clearly "I don't chase my food around the table". The item - katshiu boshi eggplant roll. Technically we didn't chase it. It was surrounded by thin cuts of eggplant that were lightly fried and little (very little) tenticals were waving to me.
So with that - I must give all of you a wave and prepare for our next course. This evening we are the guests of honor for the opening ceremonies of the Food and Wine Festival where I am told over 1000 different venues of food will be offered (there are over 10,000 restaurants in Hong Kong). I may be charged excess weight when I fly home Sunday.

2009-10-26T04:50:00.000-07:00

Arrived Hong Kong where it's exactly twelve hours ahead of Essex, CT. So it's about 7:30PM and we are waiting for 2 hours for the ferry connection to Macau. Ou ferry ride is an hour and then a short taxi and finally to the MGM Hotel - which will be just about midnigh. Our flight on Cathay Pacific was crowded and l-o-n-g. Did I mention long? Almost 15 hours in one of the smallest seats I have ever sat in without an cushion - like sitting on a park bench. But the staff and crew were very gracious and accommodating. They let me sit in a jump seat next to the emergency exit and put my feet up. The feet still swelled but not nearly like other times. It's about 77 outside tonight - unusually warm for the time of year. But I will take it. Thanks for all of your notes and best wishes. More later

2009-10-24T10:38:00.000-07:00

I'm off to Hong Kong tomorrow on my first assignment as a member of the Travel Advisory Board for Bon Appetit Magazine. The week long program is sure to include some wonderful delicacies and of course a receipe or two that I will be happy to share when I return. Look for more postings this week.

2009-02-28T07:11:00.001-08:00

Culture – our guide gave us a review of how Egyptians think or why they do what they do. Let’s take driving and traffic…I have been to London, Paris, Rome, Delhi, China but never have I experienced the kind of driving done in Cairo (or Egypt). Those white lines painted in the streets to divide lanes are really only for decoration. These drivers take a 3-lane road and make it into 5 or 6 lanes using the shoulder as well. Your vehicle better have a good horn because that’s how you get through the traffic…and there’s lots of traffic at all hours of the day. It’s rush hourssssss. But drivers are considerate of one another and there’s a kind of code between them as to who lets who pass. I especially like the 4 lane road that merged into another 4 lane road and the right hand exit was only a few hundred yards. Crossing 8 lanes of traffic = horns blowing – blinkers on – doing no less than 60 miles per hour and we made it to the exit. While all of this is going on, the people leisurely cross the traffic… yes leisurely. It looks like they are taking a walk in the park while all around them the cars are maneuvering to avoid them. We even saw people crossing the highways like this. While in Alexandria I decided to take a walk. It took me 20 minutes to brave the crossing of 4 lanes. I realized the small concrete divider wasn’t to separate the north/south traffic, it was for people to have something to stand on while waiting to cross the 2nd portion. Parking is another interesting thing. Everyone parks everywhere. Two, three and even four abreast right on the street. The keys are left with someone – anyone – who decides he has nothing to do that day so he will monitor the “parking lot” – with the hopes of a tip.
Another curious thing our guide explained was the idea of starting a business. Someone sees that his cousin makes a good living as a barber so he decides to open a barbershop a few doors away. Soon there are 8 barbershops and now no one is making any money. We could see this with the vendors at all of the tourist places. They all had the same things. It was the one odd vendor with something totally different that got your attention, even if there wasn’t anything you wanted. They are very anxious to make a sale. Their tactics are very polished. One dollar…to get you in the shop but when you choose something, the price went up to 10 or 50. They love to bargain and there’s a certain respect to achieve while playing the game. I saw some people very ridged in their expected paying price without playing the game. The vendor wouldn’t budge either and the sale never happened. But if you are considerate, patient and have a sense of humor, chances are a happy medium can be found and every one walks away thinking they got the best of the sale.