White Swan Homes and Gardens

When To Prune Your Trees and Shrubs

2012-02-21T08:20:00.000-05:00

Late winter and early spring is the best time to prune many of your trees and shrubs. With pruning season nearly upon us here is a pruning schedule for many of the commonly grown trees and shrubs.

· Spring flowering trees and shrubs: Should be pruned shortly after the flowers begin to fade. Removing spent blooms (dead heading) helps to redirect the plants energy into making bigger and plumper blooms for next season, rather than using that energy for seed production. Examples of spring flowering shrubs include: forsythia, flowering quince, lilac, Rhododendron, azalea, beauty bush, mock orange, red bud, flowering dogwood, firethorn, Japanese snowball, magnolia, viburnum, honey suckle, and others.

· Summer flowering trees and shrubs: Prune these in late winter or early spring, before growth appears. Examples include: Rose of Sharon, Snowberry, St. Johnswort, ‘Pee Gee’ Hydrangea, smooth Hydrangeas such as ‘Annabelle’, Buddleia davidii and others.

· Roses: When to prune your roses depends largely on whether it blooms on old or new wood and weather it blooms just once in the season or repeatedly. Generally all roses should be pruned to open the center of the plant to both light and air circulation; Make your cuts at a 45-degree angle, about 1/4 inch above an out facing bud; Also remove any broken, dead, dying or diseased wood as well as any crossing or badly placed branches; Remove sucker growth below the graft; Remove any weak or twiggy branches thinner than a pencil. This type of pruning should be done in late winter or early spring. When your forsythia is blooming you will know it is time to prune your roses.

− hybrid tea roses: The ones with the large single blooms that gardeners have grown to both curse and love should be pruned hard in late winter or early spring. Dead head these roses throughout the growing season to encourage additional blooms. Stop pruning about 6 weeks before the first expected hard freeze to give the roses a chance to harden off before winter.

− Climbers: For once blooming climbers, prune when the flowers begin to fade. For repeat blooming climbers (that bloom on new wood or both new and old wood) prune in late winter or early spring. (At the same time as you do your general rose maintenance pruning.)

− shrub roses: (for once blooming prune when flowers begin to fade for repeat bloomers prune in late winter or early spring and dead head and lightly prune throughout the growing season.)Every rose requires pruning to keep it healthy and to keep it flowering well.

· Deciduous trees: As with roses prune out all dead, diseased and damage branches in late winter or early spring.

−Non-Bleeders: Late winter early spring is the best time to prune the majority of deciduous trees. At this time there are fewer insects and diseases to invade the open wounds. Another benefit of early spring pruning is that it stimulates new growth and pruning cuts are quick to heal. It is also much easier to see the shape and inspect the health of the limbs without all of the foliage getting in the way. Trees that you should prune in late winter or early spring include: Aspen, Burning bush, Elder, Ginkgo, Harry Lauder's Walking Stick, Hazelnut, Linden, Mayday, Mountain Ash, Poplar, Willows, Holly, Hawthorn, Honey locust and more.

−Bleeders: A group of trees generally not recommended for early spring pruning are known as "bleeders". These are better pruned in summer when they are in full leaf. During late winter and early spring the sap is rising, and will "bleed" from open wounds. This does not harm to the tree but can make for an unsightly and sticky mess. Maple is the most common and famous in this group of trees, which also includes birch, beech, oaks, Walnuts, lindens, and elms.

· Fruit trees:Renovation and maintenance pruning are best done in late winter, while the trees are still dormant. Later on in the season, around mid-June, it is often necessary to remove excess fruit by hand when it is still very small. Fruit thinning reduces limb breakage; increases fruit size, improves colour and quality of remaining fruit, and stimulates flower initiation for next year's crop. Most apple, pear, and peach cultivars should be thinned until the fruit are no closer than 20 cm. Plum and apricot fruits should be far enough apart that they do not touch one another when mature.

· Evergreen trees and shrubs:(prune when actively growing)

−Pyramidal Cedars and Junipers may be lightly pruned in early spring to remove any winter-killed tips. By mid-June, it should be apparent that shearing is needed again as the warmer weather produces a rush of growth.

−Spruce and Fir produce buds along the branch. New growth should be removed by about half in about the third week of June. This provokes dormant buds to break, creates denser foliage and new buds will be set at the cut.

−Pines do not have buds along the stem, new growth occurs once a year from terminal buds only (tips). As these buds (called candles) enlarge in the spring, 1/2 to 2/3 of this growth may be removed each year, before the end of June.

· Vines:

a. Clematis: are pruned in 3 different ways depending upon its season of bloom and weather it blooms on old wood or new.

−Group 1: This group flowers in the spring on last season’s growth. Do not prune in spring other than to remove dead or diseased stems. A light pruning after their main spring bloom will occasionally yield a (less florific) second bloom.

−Group 2: Flower in the summer, also on last year’s growth. They should be pruned in early spring.

−Group 3: This group flowers on in late summer or early autumn on the current season’s growth. Prune them in early spring.

b. Wisteria: Prune the entire plant back after flowering is finished, thinning it out well and leaving just one or two buds or nodes per branch. In mid-summer give the vine a good hard pruning to maintain desired size and shape. Give it a final pruning in mid-September (or when growth has slowed, due to the onset of cooler temperatures).This time, leave four or five nodes or buds per branch; these will form next year's flowers and branches.

C. Virginia creeper, ivies, hops and grapes (are all pruned in late winter or early spring). Perennial sweet peas are best pruned in late autumn.

· Grasses: Although grasses may be pruned in late autumn many gardeners enjoy the look of grasses in their winter landscape. Grasses left to stand over winter are best pruned in late winter or early spring before new growth begins.

Pruning Shrubs Renovation Verses Renewal

2012-01-23T10:36:00.000-05:00

In my line of work I am sometimes asked what the difference is between renewal pruning and renovation pruning.

Basically in renewal pruning the entire shrub is pruned to within 4 to 6 inches inches from the ground.

Shrubs that can withstand this type of pruning include: barberry, forsythia, flowering quince, nine bark, privet, red twig dogwood, flowering almond, spirea, weigela, blue beard, potentilla, shrub roses St Johnswort, abelia and butterfly bush.

Renovation pruning on the other hand involves the removal of 1/3 of the oldest canes or branches at or near ground level. The following year another 1/3 is removed and new growth is reduced by approximately 1/2. On the third year the final 1/3 of the oldest branches or canes are removed. From this point forward prune annually to maintain a pleasing shape.

Shrubs that respond to this type of pruning include: rhododendron, forsythia, quince, lilac, barberry, rose of sharon, spirea, weigela, privet, bottlebrush buckeye.

Note: The best time to do either of these pruning techniques is in late winter to early spring, while the shrubs are still dormant. This is the case even for spring flowering shrubs that are usually pruned after flowering. Although pruning at this early time will cost you this year's bloom it will allow your shrub the most amount of time to recovery from its surgery before the harsh winter weather returns.

Renewal Pruning Renovation Pruning

A Little Colour To Brighten Your Winter Day

2012-01-20T12:01:00.000-05:00

Whitby, Ontario

Hemerocallis (daylilies), Ligularia stenocephala 'The Rocket', Hydrangea macrophylla, Begonia × tuberhybrida

Whitby, Ontario

Hydrangea macrophylla

Whitby, Ontario

Dianthus plumarius (carnation/pinks), Campanula medium (Canterbury Bells)

Whitby, Ontario

Clematis 'Multi Blue'

Whitby, Ontario

Leucanthemum x superbum (Shasta Daisy)

Whitby, Ontario

Stachys officinalis 'Hummelo' (Betony), Lychnis chalcedonica (Maltese cross), Coreopsis (Tickseed), Oenothera (Evening Primrose), Phlox Panicula 'Lord Clayton', Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’

Brooklin, Ontario

To view more photos check out my album at: Misc. Garden Photos

Note: All of the above photos are the property of White Swan Properties

Check List for Preparing Your Gardens for Old Man Winter

2011-11-05T14:33:00.001-04:00

Make sure your gardens, especially your evergreen trees and shrubs are watered well before freeze-up.
Mound your roses.
Wrap sensitive evergreens in burlap (to prevent winter sun or wind burns) or build a screen around them using burlap stapled to 1X2’s.
Install protective cages around tree trunks and shrubs that are prone to deer or rabbit injury in the winter.
Make sure trellises and vines are secure and able to withstand the strong winter winds.
Cleanup all fallen debris that is diseased and dispose of it in the garbage, do not compost it.
Compost the season’s annuals.
Cut back the majority of perennials to 4-12” (a few perennials that should not be cut back include: Big leaf hydrangeas that bloom on old wood, Roses (unless the canes are very long, in which case they can be shortened to approx. 3’ to prevent winter wind damage), Heuchera’s and Heucherella’s, Hellebores, Chrysanthemums, Clematis, Lavender, among others.) Seed-bearing perennials such as black-eyed Susan’s and Echinacea can also be left, since they're attractive in a winter garden and provide food for the birds. Ornamental grasses can also be left uncut for winter interest. NOTE: Do not cut down your perennials to short. Leaving longer stems will help to collect winter snow which acts as an excellent insulator for your plants.
Inspect iris tubers for signs of rot and iris bore damage. Remove and destroy all rotted tubers and it is a good practice to remove all foliage to remove overwintering iris bore eggs.
Lift sensitive bulbs (like Cannas, Gladioli and dahlias and store in a cool, dry, dark place…temperature must be above freezing).
Avoid pruning trees and shrubs this time of year. Pruning is only recommended for dead or diseased branches or branches that are weak and may easily be damaged by snow and ice accumulation.
If you plan on mulching your beds with shredded up leaves, wood chips or some other type of mulch hold off until just before or just after freeze up. This will expose soil borne insects to the fidget temperatures helping to reduce next year populations. Careful not to mulch right up to your shrubs and trees thus creating a cozy home for mice to overwinter.
Bury potted plants (that are hardy to your zone) in the ground.
Pot up any sensitive plants that are not hardy to your zone and bring in doors for the winter. Spray all plant surfaces with an insecticidal soap and add about 1/2" to 1" of sand on the surface of the soil. The soap will help to control any insects that feed on the plant while the sand helps prevent flying insects from laying eggs in the soil.
Store away garden statuary, bird baths and other garden ornaments that may be damaged or weekend during the winter.
When you have finished with your tools for the season give them a good cleaning. Then using a rag spread a thin coat of olive oil or horticultural oil over the entire surface (to prevent rusting) and store in a dry place.

Preparing Your Roses For Winter

2011-10-20T09:29:00.000-04:00

Happy autumn to all my fellow Ontario gardeners.

With the rainy season now upon us and the mercury steadily dropping most of us have shifted our gardening energies to fall clean-up and the winterizing of our gardens. For all you rose lovers and growers out there here are some tips to help you prepare and protect your rose plants so that they will return to you in the spring.

First of all grow roses that are hardy to your zone. For us here in Southern Ontario that is zone 5. If you have a special micro-environment you may get away with a zone 6 rose but it will require some extra care to protect it over winter. While it is true that some of the hardier, old fashioned, rugosa roses can stand up to old man winter without any assistance most of the modern roses (such as hybrid tea, floribunda and grandiflora) require some form of protection to make it through the harsh realities of our winters. Often times it's not the low temperatures that damage rose bushes, rather it is the rapid temperature changes and repeated freezing and thawing that does the most damage.

Secondly cultural practices during the growing season will have an effect on your rose's ability to make it through the winter. Healthy roses have a much better chance of making it through the winter so treat insect and disease problems as they occur during the growing season, water deeply before freeze up, and pick up fallen debris around the base of the plant that is diseased. Also, gardeners should not fertilize rose bushes after July 31. New late season growth will be too tender to handle winter conditions and could lead to winter injury. Stop deadheading roses in late summer. The development of rose hips promotes hardening of plants in preparation for winter.

To prepare your roses for winter survival add a 9-12 inch protective mound of soil around the base of each rose plant. While my preference is compost (if I can still find it this time of year) any type of garden soil will do as long as you bring the soil from another location. Do not remove soil from the rose's root zone to make a mound. For this purpose bagged soil works great. Next remove any diseased leaves remaining on the plant and either tie the canes together with twine or shorten excessively long canes to approximately 3 feet in length. This will prevent the canes from whipping during strong winds. The best time to mound your rose plants is a couple of weeks before the ground freezes which is about mid-November for our region. For added protection you can also add a layer of mulch over the mound of soil. Bark, wood chips, or straw can be used. You can also cut the bows of your live Christmas tree and place them over the mound for added protection.

Come spring remove the soil and mulch (usually early April in Southern Ontario).

Climbing roses are more of a challenge in terms of winter protection. The entire plant should be covered with soil. Begin by removing the rose from its trellis or climbing structure. Then carefully bend the canes to the ground. Gently pin the rose down and cover the canes with several inches of soil and a layer of mulch. Climbing roses can be uncovered with all other roses in the spring.

Crane Flies

2011-09-17T14:35:00.000-04:00

Crane Fly

There back! Those long, gangly looking insects that look like giant mosquitos have resurfaced for fall mating season. Although they are completely harmless (they neither bite nor sting) their off spring can cause some serious damage (if in sufficient numbers) to the roots of lawns and other garden plants.

A Few Facts:

About Crane Flies:
Crane Flies (sometimes called daddy-long-legs or mosquito hawks) begin emerging from the soil in late summer. Within 24 hours after their emergence they begin mating. The impregnated females then deposit approximately 300 eggs into the upper soil level and die shortly after. The eggs which are oval and black in colour require moisture and a temperature of at least 14 degrees Celsius in order to hatch. Under these ideal conditions they will hatch within 2 weeks.

Crane Fly Larvae:
The larvae of crane flies are called Leatherjackets. They have a tough outer skin which is light grey to brown in colour, thus their name. Leatherjackets look like short fat and slightly darker earthworms. However when stretched out from their usual contracted state they measure approximately 1 1/2 inches long.

Leatherjackets begin feeding in the fall soon after hatching. They over winter in the soil then continue their feeding frenzy in the spring. (Note: Although leatherjackets over winter many do not survive the winter especially if they are exposed to cold, dry conditions.) This feeding frenzy lasts until early summer when they enter the pupil stage. This stage involves a resting period where the adults develop and emerge approximately two weeks later.

Control:
Beneficial nematodes (Steinernema feltiae) are a safe, natural and effective way to control leatherjacket populations. These microscopic, parasitic, non-segmented worms, (which occur naturally in soil all over the world), seek out the leatherjackets and attack the pest by entering natural body openings or by penetration of the body wall. Once inside, they release a bacterium that kills the host within 48 hours. The nematodes then continue to reproduce inside the dead pest and release a new generation of hungry nematodes, which set off in search of further prey. Nematodes are not harmful to birds, animals, people or plant life.

The best time to apply these specific nematodes is in spring when the soil temperature is above 12ºC (54ºF) and in the fall as soon as the eggs begin to hatch. Apply to moist lawns and keep continuously moist for about 2 weeks. You can find nematodes at larger garden nurseries in the refrigerated section or by mail order. Read the label carefully for storage, application and specific hosts it is effective against.

Powdery Mildew On Phlox

2011-09-05T07:47:00.000-04:00

Powdery Mildew On Phlox

Powdery Mildew has long been a common fungal problem for garden Phlox (P. paniculata), as well as several other species of susceptible plants such as Bee Balm, Asters, Zinnias, Roses, Pulmonaria and Lilacs.

Although each plant species is prey to its own fungus species the cause can usually be attributed to improper watering or poor air circulation. Phlox and Zinnias are more prone to powdery mildew when their leaves stay moist for long periods (high humidity is a definite contributor). Species like Bee Balm and Pulmanaria are more susceptible when grown to dry.

To treat powdery mildew or to help prevent future outbreaks in your garden try these tips:

Grow your Phlox (or other powdery mildew sensitive plants) in full sun.
Water your plant from the base rather than over head watering. This will help the leaves to stay drier.
Maintain a consistent soil moisture.
Plant resistant varieties. 'David', 'Katherine', 'Natascha', 'Carolina' and 'Delta Snow' are a few phlox varieties that are seldom affected by powdery mildew.
Improve the air circulation around susceptible plants.
Thin your phlox by removing 1/3 to 1/2 of the stems to the ground.
Spray the plant yearly with horticultural oil.

Baking soda is known to have fungicidal properties and can be useful in treating powdery mildew. Try this natural remedy below when powdery mildew appears in your garden.

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 L water

A few drops of mild liquid dish soap

1 teaspoon cooking oil

(Put the ingredients into a spray bottle and mist directly onto the plant leaves, both sides. Re-shake the bottle once and a while to keep the soda from settling on the bottom of your bottle.)

Note: Do not spray your plants during the heat of the day, which can burn them. Evenings are also not a good choice as the leaves may not have a chance to fully dry before dark. Early morning is the best time to spray.

Planting Near A Walnut Tree

2011-08-14T15:40:00.000-04:00

Growing healthy plants near a walnut tree can certainly be very challenging. Even plants up to 75' away can be adversely affected. This is due to a toxic substance called juglone that is given off by the roots and leaves of walnut trees. Juglone acts a growth inhibitor, which in essence is nature's way of suppressing the competition in order to ensure its survival. The poisonous zone extends about 20 to 30 meters from the trunk of a walnut mature tree.

Certain plants are more sensitive to juglone than others.

Plants to avoid: (These plants are very sensitive to the effects of juglone and will not perform well near a walnut tree).

Apple
Asparagus
Blackberry
Birch
Cabbage
Cotoneaster
Lilac
Magnolia
Peony
Pepper
Potentilla
Potato
Privet
Rhododendron
Tomato
White pine

Plants to try: (These plants are more juglone tolerant and can usually be safely planted near a walnut tree).

Astilbe
Ajuga
Bleeding heart
Bearded iris
Coralbells
Columbine
Cranesbill
Daffodil
Daylily
Hosta
Japanese maple
Lily-of-the-valley
Solomon's seal
Spiderwort
Winged euonymus
Woodland phlox
Yarrow

For those who wish to grow vegetables near a walnut tree try constructing raised beds and line them well to keep out walnut roots. Container gardening is also an excellent option.

Durham Region Acreage Gets a Big Front Yard Makeover

2011-08-08T08:25:00.000-04:00

The Plan for the Front Garden Beds

Before Soft-scaping

This magnificent front yard makeover turned this hum drum hobby farm yard into a classy estate style acreage. The landscaping project included elaborate walkways and patios (by Elite Crete Design), a massive road side elevated rock garden, heavy stone retaining walls, custom pond with small waterfall, multiple garden beds, tree-scaping plus more. The project in its entirety was spread over the course of 3 years and involved 4 different companies.

My company (White Swan Properties) was hired to design and install the soft-scaping (garden beds and borders, trees and shrubs, soil work, etc). It was an amazing project to be part of. Below are a few photographs of the new front yard garden beds.

Goldberry Square Landscaped To Sell

2011-08-06T09:02:00.000-04:00

In today's competitive real estate market anything you can do to increase your chances of achieving a successful sale the better.

Did You Know?

63% of buyers drive by homes before choosing which ones they would like to view.
Spending just $400 to $500 on fresh landscaping, can boost your home's value by $1,600 to $1,800. (Home Gain Survey 2007)
A Maritz survey says that 63% of buyers will pay more for move-in ready homes.
Statistics show that 80% of home buyers preview properties on the internet. Enhancing your landscaping (thus curb appeal) will help to provide you with great photos for your internet and print ad advertizing.

It does not have to cost an arm and a leg, even modest improvements like weeding, edging and pruning can add to your properties appeal. Use your homes estimated value as a guide when determining home much to spend on any home improvements including landscaping. Another good guide is to use neighbouring homes as a yard stick.

Below is an example of a property I recently landscaped in preparation for market.

Before

The Plan

A shattered marriage was forcing this home onto the market and the home owner had 2 weeks to prepare the home for sale. One of the first things she did after hiring a Realtor™ was to call me (a old church aquaintence) to help her re-landscape her front beds in order to add a little curb appeal. The budget was tight and time was short but I managed to squeezed her in and to create and install a simple yet attractive, cost effective design.

My primary focus for the design was to make the beds look clean and tidy, healthy and well maintained. I stuck to simple trees and shrubs that tend to get showy quickly and are generally known and popular with the general public.

The home owner was delighted with the results and through teary eyes hugged me and thanked me. I love my job!

Now all that is left for the home owner to do is to fully remove all clutter from the area, set out a few flower pots and perhaps add a few seasonal flowers to the new garden beds.

After

Before

After

Annabelle Hydrangea Has Some Worthy Competition

2011-07-29T08:34:00.000-04:00

Hydrangea arborescens 'Annabelle'
Photo taken in my garden July 2011

Annabelle Hyrangea has long been a favourite of gardeners and landscapers alike. It's large white pom pom like blooms (up to 10" in diameter) start out green then turn to white then gradually fade back to green. Annabelle grows to be aproximately 3-4' tall and wide with a long blooming time from summer all the way to fall.

Annabelle blooms on new wood and thus is a dependable bloomer year after year (unlike the big leaf hydrangeas). It is hardy to zone 3, tolerates heat and humidity and performs well even in shady gardens. Annabelle is truly an amazing hydrangea but it's biggest pit fall is it's weak stems which are often unable to support the weight of its large blooms (especially after a rain or overhead watering). Gardeners through-out the years have tried every trick imaginable to try to support and tie up these floppy stems in order to prevent breakage.

Breeders have been working hard over the years improve Annabelle and to create better and stronger varieties. Proven Winners® is one such breeder and has developed four amazing hydrangea varieties that are sure to give Annabelle some stiff competition.

They are as follows:

Limelight Hydrangea paniculata
Little Lime^™ Hydrangea paniculata
Incrediball^® Hydrangea arborescens
Invincibelle Spirit Hydrangea arborescens

Limelight Hydrangea paniculata
Photo taken in my garden July 2011

'Limelight' Hydrangea paniculata grows to be much taller than annabelle at 6-7' and it's blooms are more conical rather than round. It is said to be the most most urban tolerant and very difficult to kill. It is also more drought tolerant with stronger branching. Little Lime^™ Hydrangea paniculata is a dwarf version maturing to aproximately 3-5'.

Incrediball^® Hydrangea arborescens

Incrediball^®Hydrangea arborescens is brand new on the scene but looks very promising. It grows to an average height of 4-5' with super sized, white pom pom blooms that can measure up to 12" in diameter. As with annabelle it blooms on new wood and as such is a dependable bloomer but the branches are much stronger and can bare the weight of it's super sized blossoms. It also is fairly shade tolerant.

Invincibelle Spirit Hydrangea arborescens.

Another interesting hydrangea to arrive on the scene is a pink annabelle, Invincibelle Spirit Hydrangea arborescens. It has all the characteristics of annabelle but in this new pink colour.

Front Yard Makeover On Jones Ave. Whitby, Ontario

2011-07-28T09:45:00.000-04:00

Before

This front yard of long time friends of mine really didn't look all that bad but many of the shrubs had reached their life span and slowly one by one they had been replacing them. When their euonymus (against the house) got scale and one of the potentilla failed to make it through the winter I suggested to them that they might get a better result if they started from scratch and let me plan out a cohesive design rather than keep piece mealing.

In creating a design for them I wanted their curb appeal to really rock. With an eye to resale I know that almost nothing gets buyers in the door faster than great curb appeal. I also wanted the design to look good year around and to be fairly low in maintenance and watering requirements. I also wanted to somehow minimize the impact of their (new) orange, front door.

When they saw the designs they were instantly sold and we headed out to the garden nurseries that same day to purchase all of the materials. The entire installation (including removal of old plant material) was done in one day. My clients were thrilled with the results (as were one of their neighbours who saw the new landscape design and hired me to do theirs as well).

After

Honey Locust Plant Bugs and Leaf Hoppers

2011-07-27T10:48:00.001-04:00

Several Honey Locust trees here in Southern Ontario have been the target of small green bugs that have been distorting honey locust leaves and in some cases partially defoliating these trees.
The main culprits have been the honey locust plant bug (Diaphnocoris Chlorionis) and leaf hoppers.

Honey Locust Leaf Hopper
(Macropsis Fumipennis)

Honey Locust Plant Bug
(Diaphnocoris Chlorionis)

These bugs have sucking mouth parts that feed on the plants sap. This piercing and feeding causes leaf distortion and chlorsis. A light feeding will cause a yellow stippling of the leaves while a heavy feeding will kill the plant cells.

Both insects overwinter as eggs that hatch in the spring just as the buds are beginning to swell. Most of the damage occurs before the leaves are fully developed.

leaf damage to a honey locust tree

Treatment:
In most causes no treatment is required. A mature honey locust tree will usually be able to recover on its own (even a partially defoliated tree will begin putting on new foliage by mid-summer). To help reduce further stress to affected trees make sure they are well watered and fertilized.

Partial defoliation of a honey locust tree caused by honey locust plant bugs

Small Narrow Backyard Makeover

2011-07-26T09:10:00.000-04:00

Small narrow backyards always pose a unique challenge.

In this garden bed design my client wanted to remove all of the lawn and to replace it with something fairly low maintenance. She wanted to make the area more visually appealing and to create a space where she could sit to enjoy a cup of coffee or an evening glass of wine.

An ornamental shrub garden was the perfect design solution for her needs. Once the shrubs are well established caring for this garden bed will be a snap requiring only occasional weeding, occasional watering and occasional pruning. By selecting a variety of trees, shrubs and grasses (even lavender) in varying heights, textures and shapes and paying special attention to season interest this garden will look good through all the seasons.

The area between the town house and fence was a catch-all for weeds and garbage. To tidy-up this area and to reduce over-all maintenance we choose to cover the area with first a thick layer of news print followed by a layer of landscape cloth and finally a 4" layer of pea-gravel. This should keep the area free of weeds and looking much tidier.

Small Front Yard Transformation

2011-07-25T08:52:00.001-04:00

When this home/store owner first contacted me about designing the garden space for her new store front I was met this challengingly small garden area measuring 8 ft. by 5 and 1/2 ft. Adding to the challenge was a badly over grown neighbouring property, gated access to the back yard and local dogs using this area as a pea post.

Wanting the garden to enhance and harmonize with her store image and to reflect the products that she sells I choose to use the English knot gardens as my inspiration for this design. The results were amazing.

The owner did a beautiful job of enhancing the design and her store front with a lovely array of seasonal flowers and in June 2011 (much to the owner's delight) her front yard was nominated by a city worker and became a show case garden for Pickering Blooms.

GOOD THINGS CAN COME IN SMALL PACKAGES!

Great Plant Combinations

2011-03-22T09:26:00.001-04:00

Annavita Court, Whitby, Ont.

This beautiful perennial border pictured here in late June/early July is absolutely exploding with colour. The lavender coloured Stachy's Hummelo with its elegant lavender wands is backed by (red) Maltese Cross ('lychnis chalcedonica') to the left and red Phlox to the right. Behind that you will see little splashes of yellow which is Evening Primrose and a large Anna Belle Hydrangea. A basket of yellow Tuberous Begonias has also been added to the equation to add further colour and drama to the border.

Photo of my garden taken June 2009

This elegant plant combination again pictured in June begins with a white Peony to the left. Out front and to the left are Dianthus Pinks and a Lavender plant that is just beginning to flower. Nestled in behind the Lavender is the perennial Salvia with an abundance of purple wands and a Clematis ('Polish Spirit') which helps to add height and drama to the bed. The red flowers to the right of that are Maltese Cross ('lychnis chalcedonica') with a day lily (currently not in bloom) directly growing in front of that. Heuchera 'Peach Melba' is the final plant visible in this photo adding additional colour and textural relief.

Colston Road, Brooklin, Ont.

This pretty combination grows in a mix of sun and shade under the canopy of an old Juniper. The white Astilbe intertwines with yellow Evening Primrose to lighten and brighten the area beneath this interesting tree. The occasional pink Asiatic Lily comes up here and there to keep things fun.

Colston Road, Brooklin, Ont.

This English style cottage garden is alive with colour. The orange Asiatic Lily to the far left is backed by white arbours full of hot pink climbing roses. In back of the bird bath are several phlox plants awaiting their turn to bloom while Stella d'oro Daylilies with their profusion of yellow blooms steals the show. At the very front of the border Marigolds bloom all season to help keep the show going. The red flowers in the upper right are Once again Maltese Cross.

Jones Ave., Whitby, Ont.

This elegant spring display consists of a Flowering Almond shrub accented with purple tulips (with a few accidental white one's mixed in to the equation, thanks to the squirrels) and a Dwarf Barberry shrub.

Rimosa Court, Oshawa, Ont.

In this final photo a colourful collection of annuals is added to this otherwise drab shrub garden. Out in front you have white Alyssum. In back of that are small mounds of pink Begonias ('Cocktail Mix') and some sunny yellow Marigolds. To add some visual height and additional colour blue/purple wands of the annual Salvia ('victorias blue') are interspersed here and there. The shrubs consist of a collect of junipers, boxwood and Euonymus. The raized bed to the upper right consists of a similar mix with the addition of dusty miller (out front and to the right) and Dahlias (the taller flowers located at the rear of the bed).

Designing a Drought Tolerant Garden

2011-03-09T13:50:00.000-05:00

Blue Fescue

Water conservation is a hot topic these days. Water shortages have caused many municipalities to impose watering restrictions (at least during heat waves) and rising water costs have motivated many home owners and municipalities to establish more drought tolerant gardens and landscapes.

Tips for Designing a Drought Tolerant Garden:

• Whether your soil is sandy or clay adding generous amounts of compost yearly will help the soil to better retain moisture.

• Mulch your beds and borders to help hold the moisture in.

• Slow down wind velocities on your property by planting hedges and erecting fences to help reduce wind-related soil drying.

• Water infrequently but deeply. Once your plants are well established allow the top 2” to 3” of soil to dry out before watering. It is important to let the surface soils dry out to stress the plants slightly so that they respond by growing deep roots.

• Choose drought tolerant plants. These plants are usually characterized as having root systems that can grow deeply into the soil to 'mine' for moisture during periods of drought.

There are several visual characteristics that can help you determine if a plant is drought tolerant or not. As a general rule, drought tolerant plants have:

• thick fleshy stems and leaves like succulents and cactus

• waxy coated leaves

• densely hairy leaves

• silvery, grayish or bluish foliage

• narrow leaves

• prickly leaves

Dusty Miller

Barberry

There are many wonderful drought tolerant plants to choose from. Some of my favourites include:

Grasses: Blue fescue, Maiden grass, Reed grass (Karl Foerster)

Bushes and Shrubs: Blue Beard, Boxwood, Cotoneaster, Winged Euonymus (burning bush), Beauty bush, Barberry, Weeping Carigana, Double flowering plum, Potentilla, Yew, Junipers, Quince, Euonymus, Lilacs

Herbs: Oregano, Lavender, Rosemary, Garden Sage, Savoury, Thyme

Perennials: Sedum (Autumn joy), Coreopsis (Moon Beam), Purple Coneflower, Lavender, Gaillardia, Yucca, Peony, Dianthus (pinks), Artemisia, Phlox, Achillea (Yarrow), Liatrus, Periwinkle, Butterfly Weed, Lamb’s Ears, Globe Thistle, Sea Holly (Eryngium), Hens and Chicks (Sempervivums) , Columbine, Day Lilies, Bearded Iris, Daisies, Salvia (many varieties), Russian Sage, Catnip,

Annuals: Dusty Miller, Begonia (wax leaf), Calendula, Cosmos, Dianthus, Cleome, Geranium, Purple Fountain Grass, Marigold, Lantana, Gazania, Sweet Alyssum, Zinnia, Verbena, Amaranth

Note: Many of the above mentioned plants, although drought tolerant to various degrees will perform at their best in a moister environment.

Potentilla

Reed Grass

Sedum (Autumn Joy)

Phlox

Boxwood

Burning Bush (Winged Euonymus)

Galillardia

Juniper

With so many wonderful plants to choose from it has become easier than ever before to create beautiful, drought tolerant gardens and given the state of the environment and our busy schedules it just makes good sense.

Gardening Naturally With Clematis

2011-03-07T14:23:00.001-05:00

Clematis 'Multi Blue'
Photo by: Kimberley Pacholko

There are few flowering vines that command as much visual appeal as do Clematis, at least here in Southern Ontario. Many varieties offer near diner plate size blooms on plants that can bloom for weeks on end. Growing these amazing Clematis vines without the aid of chemicals is not only do-able but from the plants point of view preferable.

Gardening Naturally With Clematis

For big beautiful blooms on healthy low maintenance Clematis plants try these all natural gardening tips:

The first rule of thumb for growing healthy Clematis plants naturally is to select varieties that are disease and insect resistant and well suited to both your grow zone and your natural soil type. Try to purchase varieties that are noted for being resistant to 'Clematis Wilt'. Other ways to protect your plants against this fungal attack (that can cause your plants to suddenly and severely wilt) is to ensure that the vines are securely attached to their growing structure. These delicate vines are easily damaged by wind or miss handling and the resulting wounds provide a target for a wide range of fungi to attack. Also ensure that all pruning tools are clean and sharp. If 'Clematis Wilt' does strike, immediately prune off all affected areas. Then to prevent spreading the disease, clean your pruning tools with a mild solution of bleach and water or wipe with a cotton ball soaked in rubbing alcohol
Choose the site: Clematis require about 6 hours of full sun per day to perform their best (although, light shading during the hottest part of the day is beneficial). A few of the very large flowered varieties should be planted in a more easterly exposure to prevent excessive flower fading caused by too much sun (Clematis 'Bees Jubilee' is a good example of this, to much sun and it's flowers will bleach to an almost white).
Preparing the soil: Clematis prefers a rich loamy soil, high in organic content with a pH close to neutral (6.6-7.0). Add lime to an acid soil to alkalize it and add aluminum sulphate to an overly alkaline soil to acidify it. Add generous amounts of bone meal and compost to the soil at time of planting and continue to add compost to the soil yearly and add bone meal in the fall every second year. Do not under estimate the importance of creating a healthy growing medium. Without it you will constantly struggle with poorly performing plants, insect attacks, disease, poor flowering and your plants will require more frequent watering.
Watering practices: Clematis prefers to be keep moist at all times (especially when in flower) so be sure to locate your Clematis in an area that is accessible for watering. To ensure a healthy, strong root development, water your clematis deeply rather than only surface watering. Many people, myself included, like to grow Clematis on trellises attached to the house. This location however will create a more demanding water schedule for you as the roof overhang shelters the plant from much of the natural rain water. Providing a heavy mulch for your Clematis is an easy and effective way to reduce watering requirements while at the same time providing soil enriching organic content.
Practice proper pruning techniques: When to prune your Clematis will depend upon the variety you have selected. If your Clematis flowers in early summer on new wood typically you will prune it to a healthy pair of buds about 1' from the ground in late winter or early spring. For varieties that bloom in spring on old wood prune out only the dead wood in late winter or early spring and thin or prune out any over growth (only if required) immediately after spring flowering.
Shade the roots: It is essential for the roots to remain cool and moist so protect the root area with a heavy mulch or the shade of low growing plants. Even a large flat rock will work.
Do not till or dig near Clematis: Clematis resent root disturbance, so extreme care must be exercised when working around the plant.
Use natural fertilizers: If you have taken the time to establish a healthy soil and are adding compost yearly and bone meal every second fall then you will need very little in the way of additional fertilizers. For me I apply a light feed of an organic granular fertilizer in early spring (when the plant begins actively growing). Then in early summer I may apply a blend of liquid seaweed and fish emulsion either as a foliar spray or directly to the soil.

The following photos of organically grown Clematis plants provides living proof that big beautiful blooms on healthy vibrant Clematis plants is possible without the use of chemicals. So put away your synthetic fertilizers, chemical fungicides and pesticides and join the growing trend toward healthier and environmentally friendlier gardening practices.

Clematis 'Jackmanii'
Photo by: Kimberley Pacholko

Clematis 'Polish Spirit'
Photo by: Kimberley Pacholko

Clematis 'The President'
Photo by: Kimberley Pacholko

Clematis 'Bees' Jubilee'
Photo by: Kimberley Pacholko

Ligularia - Stenocephala 'The Rocket'

2011-03-04T07:37:00.000-05:00

Ligularia - Stenocephala 'The Rocket'
Photo by: Kimberley Pacholko

If you are looking for a watering loving, shade tolerant perennial with real presence in the garden then Ligularia- Stenocephala may be just the plant for you. Ligularia Stenocephala is an attractive, clump forming plant, with triangular almost heart-shaped, heavily toothed leaves measuring approx. 12cm. The plant blooms in early to mid-summer sending forth 18"-24" yellow bottlebrush spikes carried on dark-purple, almost black, stems. The flower spikes begin blooming at the bottom of the spike and gradually work their way upward.

Ligularia - Stenocephala 'The Rocket'
Photo by: Kimberley Pacholko

Ligularia Stenocephala, also called Leopard plant enjoys wet feet and will do well in a bog garden. The plant is said to do well in sun or shade but I find that the plant droops a great deal in the heat. I grow mine in an east facing bed where it only receives the morning sun. Even so the leaves often droop during the heat of the day and then perk up again in the evening when the temperatures begin to drop.

Ligularia - Stenocephala 'The Rocket'
Photo by: Kimberley Pacholko

Ligularia Stenocephala is Hardy in zones 4 to 8 and performs best in a deep fertile soil with a pH between 6.5 -7. It combines well with astibe, spiderwort, hostas, ferns and bee balm.

Red Admiral butterfly on Ligularia
Photo by: Kimberley Pacholko

Ligularia is not known as a butterfly attracting plant but I have not found that to be so in my garden. This Red Admiral pictured above seemed perfectly content sipping the nectar of my Ligularia last summer.

Late Winter/Early Spring Prunning Schedule For Southern Ontario

2011-03-01T07:43:00.000-05:00

March is an excellent pruning time for many trees and shrubs here in Southern Ontario. Pruning out dead and diseased wood, crossing and overcrowded branches yearly is an excellent way to maintain the health and vigour your favourite trees and shrubs. You may also wish to prune for size and shape as well, to keep them looking their best.

The best time to prune your trees and shrubs will depend upon its flowering, fruiting, and growth habits, as well as its tendency to “bleed”. Since pruning usually stimulates a flush of re-growth temperatures must be mild enough to ensure that this new growth will not damaged by hard frosts.

In reality most plants can be pruned at almost any time of year without jeopardizing basic survival. However, it is preferable to prune specific plants at specific points in the year to avoid excessive "bleeding", sacrificing the seasons flowers, to prevent disease, cankers or other potential problems.

To make your job a little easier I have put together a list of some of the trees and shrubs that can be safely pruned in early winter to late spring.

Late Winter/Early Spring Pruning: (Febuary through April)

Arrow-wood
Aspen
Barberry (or after flowering)
Buffaloberry
Burning Bush
Butternut (or full leaf)
Butterfly Bush
Chokecherry
Coralberry
Cork Tree
Cotoneaster
Cranberry
Dogwood (or after flowering)
Elder
Firs and Douglas-Firs
Flowering Raspberry
Ginkgo
Hackberry
Harry Lauder's Walking Stick
Hazelnut
Holly
Honey suckle (or after flowering)
Horse Chestnut
Hydrangea (Peegee and Smooth)
Honey Lotus
Linden
Mayday
Mountain Ash
Mullberry
Nine Bark (or after flowering)
Oak (The University of Minnesota advises pruning oak trees after June to avoid oak wilt disease. They also recommend applying a wound dressing to fresh cuts that are made before June to mask the odour, so that the beetles that spread oak wilt will not be attracted to the trees.)
Pincherry
Poplar
Potentilla (prune as soon as the leaves begin to appear)
Raspberry
Roses (Hybrid Tea and Grandiflora roses)
Sandcherry 'purple leaf' (or after flowering)
Smokebush (or after flowering)
Snowberry
Spirea (pink-flowered summer-blooming varieties only (may alternately be pruned after flowering).
Spruces
Sumacs (or after flowering)
Weigela (or after flowering)
Willows
Yew (or mid-summer)
Walnut (or in full leaf)

Note: It is usually recommended to prune all flowering trees and shrubs, that bloom before June, immediately after flowering. However there are a few varieties that are often grown for their unique leaves or branches rather than for their flowers and these may be pruned in early spring instead. I have include a few of these above.

Butterfly Gardening In Southern Ontario

2011-02-23T14:19:00.001-05:00

'Silvery Blue' butterfly

There is something magical about butterflies. No matter how old we grow they never cease to amaze and delight us. Fortunately there are a few things we all can do to increase the frequency of butterflies in our gardens.

Tips and Facts for Attracting Butterflies to Your Garden:

Butterflies require two types of plants, nectar rich plants that serve as a food source for the adult butterfly and host plants that serve as a place to lay their eggs and as food source for their off spring (the caterpillar).
Different species of butterflies feed on different nectar rich plants and require different host plants. Find out what butterflies are common in your area then plant the specific nectar rich plants and host plants that are required to attract those species. (See the list at the bottom of the page).
Butterflies are attracted to strong fragrances and bright colours; so plant brightly coloured flowers like reds, oranges and purples.
Planting a large grouping of one variety is more effective at attracting butterflies then the salt and pepper effect. You can still grow a variety of plants just be sure that each variety has several plants grouped together to form a substantial display of each variety.
Do not use pesticides in your garden. Butterflies are very sensitive to the effects of pesticides and its use will greatly reduce butterfly numbers.
Butterflies fly best at a body temp of 30-38 degrees Celsius and thus require the sun to warm them-selves so be sure to plant your butterfly garden in a sunny location (an area that receives 5-6 hours of full sun each day), but sheltered from the winds. Placing a few flat stones in a sunny area will further encourage butterflies to linger in your garden by providing a warm resting place.
Include a water source near by for your butterflies. The best source is a mud puddle, as males use mud as a source of minerals and salts, this is called puddling. A sandy bottom hole or dish will also work but the sand must be kept constantly moist.

The photos above depict a few of the butterfly varieties common to southern Ontario
Beginning top left: Silvery Blue, Monarch, Orange Sulphur, Canadian Tiger Swallowtail
Bottom left: Viceroy, Bronze Copper, Mustard White, Aphrodite Fritillary

Below I have provided a list of some of the common butterflies found in Southern Ontario and what their prefered host and nectar plants are, as well as their typical habitat.

BUTTERFLY	CATERPILLAR HOST PLANT	BUTTERFLY NECTAR SOURCE	Habitat
American Painted Lady	Everlasting, Daisy, Burdock	Aster, Dogbane, Goldenrod, Mallow, Privet, Vetch	Old fields, roadsides, meadows, and forest clearings
Monarch	Milkweed	Dogbane, Buddleia	Where milkweed plants and nectar sources are found
Orange Sulphur	Vetch. Alfalfa, Clover	Alfalfa, Aster, Clover, Verbena Black-eyed Susan	Clover and Alfalfa fields, roadsides, agricultural areas
Canadian Tiger Swallowtail	Black Cherry, Birch, Poplar, Willow	Joe Pye Weed, Buddleia	Open woodlands & nearby open spaces, also found north of the tree line and in urban areas
Viceroy	Willow, Poplar, Fruit Trees	Thistle, Beggar-tick, Goldenrod, Milkweed	Wet shrubby areas, especially if willows are found nearby
Bronze Copper	Curled Dock Water Dock and knotweed	Boneset, Swamp milk Weed Goldenrod	Wet meadows, marsh edges, wet roadside ditches
Mustard White	Mustard family plants Rock cress, and toolworth	Mustard family plants	Now mainly associated with rich deciduous woodlands where its preferred food plant, Toothwort, thrives
Silvery Blue	Cow Vetch, White Sweet Clover, and Alfalfa	Lupine and coneflower	Roadsides, flowery meadows, woodland trails, open woods and shrubby areas. In Ont. found mostly along the Canadian shield.
Juvenal's Duskywing	Oaks	Ground Ivy	Wood margins, open oak woods, fields, damp roadsides, and open spaces near woodlands.
Aphrodite Fritillary	Violets	Nectar from flowers of milkweed and viper's bugloss	Fields, meadows, wood margins, clearings. It is uncommon in the Ottawa District.

Baltimore Checkerspot	Turtlehead, False Foxglove, Plantain	Milkweed, Viburnum, Wild Rose	wet meadow

"Show Me The Money" Staging Your Home For Profit

2011-02-10T12:23:00.001-05:00

You may be the kindest of souls, but how many people really want to spend a pile of money fixing up their home for someone else to live in? Unless of course you stand to profit from the investment. As Kevin on the show Dragons Den likes to say "show me how I am going to make some money".

Staging Your Home For Profit:

Rule number 1: Start with a plan. "If you fail to plan you plan to fail" (Benjamin Franklin). This holds true in many endeavours and preparing your home for market is no exception. Begin by doing a little homework. Find out what competing homes are offering and find out who your target market is (the people most likely to buy your home).

Next, plan the work then work the plan. (Your plan may include: Home improvements, cleaning, pre-packing and storage, pre-home inspection, maintenance and repair work, furniture rentals, painting, (un)decorating, etc. Taking the time to plan ahead can save you costly errors. It can also save you time and money especially if you will be dealing with trades people who work on an hourly rate.
Note: I have used the term Home Staging in this blog to encompass all of the elements that go into effectively preparing a home for market. In the home improvement table below the term home staging is used in a much narrower sense.

Rule number 2: Stick with up-grades that have been proven to bring a good return on your investment. Once you have determined which home improvements would most benefit the sale of your home do not jump in with both feet until you have also determined that it will be a good investment for you. Use this table and links below as a guide. Your Realtor® or professional stager will also be able to guide you in this area.

Home Improvement Project	Average Cost	Home Price Increase	Return on Investment*
Clean and De-clutter	$100 - $200	$1500 - $2000	872%
Home Staging	$300 - $400	$1500 - $2000	586%
Lighten and Brighten	$200 - $300	$1000 - $1500	572%
Landscape Front/Back Yards	$300 - $400	$1500 - $2000	473%
Repair Plumbing	$300 - $400	$1000 - $1500	327%
Update Electrical	$300 - $400	$1000 - $1500	309%
Replace or Shampoo Carpets	$400 - $500	$1000 - $1500	295%
Paint Interior Walls	$500 - $750	$1500 - $2000	250%
Repair Damaged Floors	$500 - $750	$1500 - $2000	250%
Update Kitchen	$1000 - $1500	$2000 - $3000	237%
Paint Outside of Home	$750 - $1000	$1500 - $2000	201%
Update Bathroom	$750 - $1000	$1000 - $1500	172%

HomeGain’s 2009 national survey

With this kind of returns on your investment I think even the Dragons would approve.

Remodeling Cost Verses Value Report 2010/11

Download the Home Sale Maximizer™ Guide for more information, tips and tricks for getting your home ready for sale.

Rule number 3: Stick with up-grades that appeal specifically to your homes target market. Converting the attic space into an extra bedroom may be a good investment if your target market is families with older children but it would not be such a good investment if your target market were seniors. Be absolutely certain that the home improvement you are considering is warranted.

Rule Number 4: Surround yourself with knowledgeable, capable and results oriented people. The top dogs in any industry are the ones who have learned how to build a productive team. Remember "it takes a team to build a dream" (unknown). Your team may include a: Realtor®, home stager, contractor, electrician, plumber, handyman, flooring installer, painters, junk removal, packers, carpet cleaner, landscaper, gardener.... Your Realtor® and home stager can be of tremendous help to you in putting together your team. Many home stagers will also orchestrate the entire project on your behalf for a nominal fee.

There is money to be made in preparing your home for market. Try to detach yourself from your property and look at your home as a business investment. Base your decisions on sound intellectual reasoning and do not let your emotional attachment to the property prevent you from making profitable choices.

Replacing A Rose Plant

2011-02-06T18:47:00.002-05:00

John Kennedy Rose
Photo By White Swan Properties

Replacing a rose plant with another rose plant can be pretty tricky. For some unknown reason these new rose plantings often fail to thrive and many wither and die. The rose experts have termed this phenomena “soil exhaustion” or “Rose Sickness”. Although the exact reason still remains unclear the experts do have several theories regarding this occurrence:

1. Some experts believe that the rose roots excrete some sort of toxin that can inhibit the growth of the roots of other roses.

2. Others hold that decaying rose roots emit a poisonous toxin.

3. Still others suggest that the remaining roots of the original rose plant leave behind a network of tunnels as they decay. The roots of the new rose, taking the path of least resistance, grow into these tunnels, thereby failing to make contact with the soil and with the microbes in the soil.

Recommendations:

• My personal recommendation to anyone wanting to replace a rose plant with another rose plant is to first remove all of the soil that surrounded the rose plant. Depending upon the age of the rose being removed, this could mean digging out anywhere from a 1’ hole to a 3’ hole. On average though a 2’ wide by 2’ deep hole will probably suffice.

• When removing this soil do not merely spread the excess soil around the area. It should be removed to an entirely different garden location that does not grow roses.

• Use new soil and compost to refill the hole and plant your new rose according to the grower’s specifications.

Blue Hydrangeas

2011-02-04T13:36:00.000-05:00

Hydrangea macrophylla -- Hortensia or Florist Hydrangea

Here in southern Ontario Blue Hydrangeas are quite rare. This is mainly because our soil pH tends to be neutral to slightly alkaline. Blue Hydrangeas require an acidic soil with a pH of 5.0 to 5.5. A secondary reason for the scarcity of this plant is due to our often harsh winters. As a general rule, plants in this species flower only from the end buds of upright or lateral shoots produced during late summer and fall of the previous season. A harsh winter can easily kill these preformed buds.

For those of you who love a good challenge there are several things you can do to increase your chances of success when it comes to growing blue Big Leaf Hydrangeas.

Test your soil to see what your current soil pH level is. This can be done using a simple home testing kit which can be purchased at many garden centers or through
Adjust your soils pH: To increase the acidity of your soil add a soil acidifier like agricultural sulphur or pine needles. Aluminum sulphate can also be used; it lowers the soils pH as well as supplies the plant with aluminum which is necessary for the blue colouring. (Note: as the pH drops to 5.0 to 5.5, aluminum becomes more soluble.) It can take years to drastically change the PH level of a soil. You will need to regularly test and amend your soil if its natural PH is quite different from the one you are attempting to create.
Wait at least 1 month to fertile, especially fertilizers containing phosphorous (as phosphates precipitate aluminum).
Prune your Hydrangea macrophylla as soon as the flowers have faded and strong shoots are developing from the lower parts of the stems and crown. Remove at the base some of the weaker shoots that are both old and new. Always try to keep several stems of old productive wood, with a sufficient number of stout new stems that will flower the following season.
Winter protection: in December tie the shoots together and wrap with burlap 'or' for the really sensitive florist types place a screen around the plant before the temperature falls below -4 degrees C. Fill this with an insulating material such as coarse peat moss, vermiculite or bark. More material may be added if it settles during the winter. Remove this protection when the crocuses flower but protect on cold nights. If you are lucky, the flower buds will survive.

Photo credit: Blue Magic Green Houses
http://bluemagicgreenhouses.com/products/blue-magic-hydrangeas

Painting Over Dated Bathroom Tile

2011-02-03T08:50:00.000-05:00

Want to up-date your bathrooms' decor but do not want to fork out the dough to replace the ceramic tiling? Then consider painting! Painting over dated bathroon tile is a low-cost alternative to replacing it and will give you a big bang for your buck.

Heres How:
For the DIY enthusiast you will need to:

Clean, rinse and dry the surfaces well and repair any damaged grout or tiles prior to painting.
Prime your prepared surface with a high-adhesion primer like Zinsser 123 Acrylic primer or Zinsser B.I.N.
Top coat with an epoxy, which is the toughest finish or for a cheaper easier to work with finish try a top of the line 100% acrylic interior semi-gloss paint which can take a pretty good beating. An alkyd paint in a semi-gloss sheen is also a good choose and will dry harder than the acrylic but it will take much longer to fully cure (2-3 weeks). (Note: Use 2 thin coats rather than 1 heavy top coat. Not only will it look better it will also last longer).

For those who prefer to hire a professional seek out a qualified painter in your area or a company that specializes in this type of finish.