Capitall Window and Door Blog

Best of 2013 Award for Capitall Exterior Solutions

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Wed, 19 Mar 2014 02:34:00 +0000

Second year in a row for Capitall!!!

Capitall Exterior Solutions once again won the best of award!

Thanks HomeStars for this great honour! Thank you to all of our customers that wrote great reviews, you can read some reviews here >>HomeStars

Craig Hatt owner accepted the award at the special dinner hosted by HomeStars along with all the other winners in other categories for Edmonton Best of 2013.

Among some of the criteria that Capitall had to do to win was:

Only reviews from the 2013 calendar year count
Companies must have a minimum of 5 reviews in 2013 to qualify for the award
Awards are determined based on the HomeStars 'Best Of' match algorithm, which considers both the quantity and quality of reviews
Companies can only win in one category, their primary category
The deadline for reviews is December 31, 2013

Checklist — Hiring a Contractor

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Thu, 17 May 2012 20:33:00 +0000

There is a few things to consider when hiring a good contractor. First you should write a description of the work you want done, with as much detail as possible.Check with your municipal building department to ensure that the work can be done and if any special permits are required, such as zoning approval. Now it is time to find a contractor to perform the work you require.

Start by asking friends and neighbours for recommendations. Get names from your family members, friends, local home builder and renovator associations, building supply outlets and, in some municipalities, your local building department. No matter how you find this contractor here is a few things you MUST ask before they start. This will protect you as a home-owner and can save you money and headache if things do not turn out the way you planned.

You want to find out as much information as possible, so ask a lot of questions, such as:

How long have you been in business?
What kind of work are you or your subcontractors licensed to do, e.g., electrical, plumbing, etc.
What kind of work do you specialize in?
Have you done a similar job before?
Will you use your own crew for the work or will you subcontract all or part of the job?
How would you handle a specific problem related to this project (e.g., installing kitchen cabinets on a sloping floor)?
How will you deal with the health and energy efficiency aspects of the job?
How and when do you clean up, particularly fine dust?
What work schedule will you follow?
What kind of warranty do you offer and what does it cover?
Do you carry workers’ compensation and liability insurance?
Will you provide a written contract?
Will you take out all required permits (e.g., building, plumbing, electrical)?

Things to Check for before you hire anyone:

Business licence number
Pre-Paid Contractors Licence (this is different than above)
Liability and property damage insurance (min. 2 million)
WCB
Better Business Bureau
References from past customers
Website
A location you can visit
Samples and literature showing different products that could be used
Government approved contract

Home-owners responsibilities include:

Ensuring that all contracted work conforms to zoning by-laws.
Ensuring adequate working space and freedom of movement for workers, and use of utilities.
Ensuring prompt payment according to the requirements of the law and the hold back and payment schedule.

You won’t offend reputable firms with questions. If a contractor doesn't seem to know much about the technical details of the job or doesn't want to talk about them, you may have the wrong contractor.

Most importantly, be sure you can get along with the contractor. If you cannot communicate effectively with the contractor, things can get very tense in a lengthy project. A contractor who is knowledgeable about the type of work you’re wanting, should be able to suggest ways to meet your budget while still getting what you want.

The best proof of quality is satisfied customers. Don’t accept the references at face value. Phone them and ask about their experience with the contractor and their tradespeople. Ask them if they were satisfied with the quality of the work. Would they hire the contractor again or recommend the company to friends and family?

Capitall Exterior Solutions has proven to our customers that we go above and beyond with the qualifications listed above. We carry 5 million dollars in Liability insurance, have a good standing with WCB and have an A+ rating with the BBB. Capitall also has ALL the licenses required to operate a renovation company in Alberta, local business licenses, Prepaid Contractors License, which requires that we are bonded. We are always doing more by providing our employees with all the training needed to perform the installation required by our customers, from first aid to fall prevention. Call us or visit our website to learn more.

Will my old blinds fit in the new window frames?

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Wed, 02 May 2012 20:52:00 +0000

Answer:

If they are full frame replacements then they may but sometimes they will not because your frame size has changed. Consider this before you start your project.

Talk to an installer to learn more...

New Entry Door

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 17 Apr 2012 14:21:00 +0000

Materials

Good quality doors can be made from various materials:

Steel doors usually have interior components made of wood for strength and stability, an inner core filled with foam or other insulation to improve thermal performance, and an outer skin of galvanized steel for durability and resistance to warping. Steel doors can be painted any colour and generally require little maintenance.
Fibreglass doors are relatively new to the market and are built the same as steel doors but with a different outer skin. Fibreglass is very strong, durable and thermally resistant.
Vinyl doors – another new addition to the market – feature multiple chambers reinforced with wood, steel or aluminum for strength and to prevent distortion. They offer good thermal performance, are resistant to extreme weather and breakage, and require no special maintenance.
Solid wood doors are often aesthetically pleasing, strong and durable, but they are less thermally resistant than doors that have insulated cores. They also require regular maintenance for protection from the elements.

What to Look for in a New Door

Look for the following when considering a new door:

an energy-efficient, ENERGY STAR® qualified product
a high Energy Rating (ER) or a low U-value
wood, vinyl or thermally broken metal frames
good quality weatherstripping
maintenance-free framing materials
glazing with low-e and an inert gas fill
insulated cores (entry doors only)

Shop for Entry Doors Now! Capitall Exterior Solutions now manufactures Entry doors. Have your new door custom made in as little as 2 weeks.

Poor Installation can cause problems

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Thu, 05 Apr 2012 17:01:00 +0000

A knowledgeable professional should install window and doors according to the manufacturer's instructions. A poorly installed product may not operate properly and could cause drafts even though the product itself is energy efficient. Poor installation may also allow water to leak into the home, leading to costly damage.

Installation guidelines:

The installation should provide an airtight, insulated seal.
After installation, the window or door should retain its original shape and be level from side to side and top to bottom. Windows may be installed
on an angle (for example, in an attic) only if they are designed to do so.
A window or door should not support any load other than its own weight.
Any exterior finishing, such as flashing, should prevent water penetration.

Learn more by talking to one of our installers, who is also an owner!

Can windows be installed in the winter?

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sun, 01 Apr 2012 20:50:00 +0000

Answer:

Yes they can, however once we reach -15 degrees Celsius, the install may be cancelled. The caulking will not adhere or cure properly. Also we must consider the safety of the installers.

Will new windows and doors save us money?

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sat, 31 Mar 2012 20:48:00 +0000

Answer:

The weakest link in your home's thermal efficiency is often the windows and doors. Replacing them reduces your heating bills quite dramatically.

Condensation is a nuisance on my old windows but I hear it can alsocause damage. Is that true?

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Fri, 30 Mar 2012 20:47:00 +0000

Answer:

Condensation can be a serious problem. The moisture produced by everyday activities such as cooking and showering shows up first on cool dense surfaces such as windows. Over the long term, this dripping can damage windows and nearby surfaces such as drywall and promote growth of mould, a potential health hazard.

One solution is to reduce humidity but levels can't always be lowered sufficiently, especially in the winter. A solution can lie in the windows and air flow around them. Keep blinds and curtains open a little will allow airflow around the window and help prevent condensation from build up by giving it time to dry.

Can the right glass really reduce furniture and carpet fading?

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Thu, 29 Mar 2012 20:45:00 +0000

Answer:

Absolutely. All Low-E glass protects to some degree against the damaging UV rays that cause fading. Some Low-E glass types block 64% of UV rays; a 42% reduction compared to clear window glass. Beyond Low-E glass, a patented glass coating called UV Guard affords maximum resistance to the most harmful UV-A and UV-B rays and the fading they cause.

What is "Low-e" glass?

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Wed, 28 Mar 2012 20:43:00 +0000

Answer:

Low-e glass has a near-invisible coating that reduces the amount of heat lost while letting in all the light.

Is all window glass the same?

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 27 Mar 2012 20:33:00 +0000

Answer:

Definitely not. Glass is available in a variety of types including clear, tinted, obscure and Low-emissivity (Low-E). The type of glass, thickness, number of panes, distance between panes, as well as the manner in which panes are connected, all affect performance of the window.

Shop for Windows Now

What's the difference between complete tear out and retrofit?

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Mon, 26 Mar 2012 20:22:00 +0000

Answer:

COMPLETE TEAR OUT refers to removing everything down to the studs starting from scratch

BENEFIT: the better method of installation and maintain viewing area.
DOWNFALL: more product, more materials, more labour = more money

RETROFIT refers to removal of operating sashes, inserting a window into existing window frames

BENEFIT: less money.
DOWNFALL: any air filtration behind an old frame cannot be eliminated.

Do I have to replace my windows with the same style windows, or can I choose different style?

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sun, 25 Mar 2012 20:28:00 +0000

Answer:

You can replace windows with any style, shape and color that suit you. There are endless possibilities.

View window and door options

Why should I buy custom replacement windows

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sat, 24 Mar 2012 20:24:00 +0000

Answer:

Because custom windows fit perfectly. Stock windows, like those used by builders or sold in lumber yards, are available only in certain sizes. Since many window openings are not the same 'standard' sizes as stock windows, you'll be left with several inches of open space around the entire window.

Carpenters generally fill this space with gypsum board or moulding. This not only reduces your viewing area and detracts from your home's beauty, but you have extra wall space to patch, paint, and decorate.

Is there a way to make my home cooler in the summer?

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Fri, 23 Mar 2012 20:32:00 +0000

Answer:

Reasonably-priced glass options, like low-E glass can control heat build up in the summer and also control heat loss in the winter.

View Window Options and Features

Can I install custom-made windows myself?

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Thu, 22 Mar 2012 20:19:00 +0000

Answer:

Yes, but the better question might be, "Should I install custom-made windows myself?" Professional installers have all the necessary equipment and installation techniques based on established industry standards to do the job right, like bending exterior capping coil to make them more visually appealing.

Measuring the size of the window is extremely important as well. If your measurements are off by as little as .25", a custom-made window may not fit. We strongly recommend that you let a professional do the job for you.

Get a Free Quote

Capitall Flyer on Jay Leno

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Thu, 22 Mar 2012 01:51:00 +0000

Why do old windows even need to be replaced?

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Wed, 21 Mar 2012 20:18:00 +0000

Answer:

There are several factors to be considered.

Energy loss: Perhaps 25 per cent of your energy bill is lost through windows. A 3'X5' window with a 1/16" gap around the sashes is like having a hole the size of a brick.

Condensation: Energy-efficient windows stay warmer on the interior surface, so humidity can be raised without getting moisture on windows, which can eventually damage walls. Less condensation also helps reduce growth of mould.

Air quality: Tight windows keep out dust, bugs, pollen and sound – so the indoor environment is healthier.

Interior Condensation

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 20 Mar 2012 20:13:00 +0000

Interior Condensation

Surface Condensation

Each person has his or her own preference regarding the humidity level in his or her home. If the occupants insist on a high level of humidity within the house, surface condensation must be expected when outside temperatures are low. Some indications of surface condensation are:

Frost on door handles and hinges, or door frozen shut
Water or ice on windows
Damp spots on walls and ceiling
Damp spots on closet walls
Moisture on light fixtures
Moisture on water closets
Moisture on cold water pipes, walls and floors.

Some humidity is necessary for comfort and health. In many homes, it is a struggle to keep enough moisture inside the home to maintain an acceptable humidity level for the occupants. Frequently, humidifiers are installed to add moisture to the air, but their use must be controlled or surface condensation problems may result. Unfortunately, a dry house may indicate a high leakage rate (depending on the amount of moisture added by the homeowner), which can contribute to concealed condensation.

In some newer homes, however, air leakage is controlled so well that removing moisture from the house becomes a problem. This problem is made worse by the use of humidifiers, resulting in condensation on windows, mold growth, or damp spots on ceilings and room-side surfaces of exterior walls.

Because windows do not provide much resistance to heat loss, they are often the coldest component of a building enclosure, and can be an indicator of humidity problems. Because condensation occurs on inside window surfaces whenever the surface temperature falls below the dew point temperature of the room air, window condensation may signal a need to reduce the humidity level in your home.

What Can Affect the Performance of Windows?

(The following may cause condensation to form on a window)

Air Circulation - a window may be in an area in which there is poor circulation of warm air. This means that the temperature of the inside glass surface is colder than in other parts of the home and this may cause condensation to form at humidity levels which are practical for the rest of the home.

Drapes - based on natural circulation of warm air on the inside surface of the window. By drawing heavy drapes or venetian blinds over a window or patio door the possibility of condensation can be increased because the flow of warm air is restricted.

Varying Humidity Levels - remember that the humidity in some rooms, kitchens and bathrooms in particular, can be higher than in other areas of the home, thus encouraging condensation to form on the windows in these rooms.

Orientation - if windows are exposed to prevailing winds, then they will be slightly colder than the other windows in the home and may cause condensation to form at humidity levels which are practical for the rest of the home.

Exposure - some windows in the home may be protected by other buildings, trees, etc., which form a windbreak while others are totally exposed to the wind and, therefore, colder.

Exterior Condensation

With high performance glazing it is possible, under certain conditions, to have condensation on the outside of the glazing. The glazing radiates to the sky and on a clear night that can reduce the temperature of the outside surface to below the dew point. Condensation will form similarly to the condensation on a car windshield and, once the sun comes up, the condensation will disappear.

The phenomenon is only possible when the glazing unit high performance and little heat is being transmitted to the outer surface. It is not likely to occur on a cloudy night.

General Window Maintenance

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sun, 18 Mar 2012 01:31:00 +0000

Cleaning Glass Surfaces

Apply a mild soap or vinegar-based cleaner to the glass, either by spraying or using a clean, grit-free cloth or sponge saturated with cleaning solution. Avoid using ammonia or alcohol-based cleaners, which can cause streaking. Be careful not to damage glazing, frame finish, wood components or insulating unit seals by overgenerous application of cleaners. In addition, comply with the cleaner manufacturer's directions on label for toxicity, handling and flammability warnings.

Wipe the cleaning solutions on the glass in a circular motion, applying light to moderate pressure. If streaks appear, rinse surface with clean water. Using a clean, lint-free cloth, wipe dry the interior glazing surfaces, including any interior frame or hardware components to prevent spotting....

or water damage.

To clean grease, oil, tape adhesive, crayons or paint, apply a small amount of mild abrasive, or acetone (mineral spirits) to a clean, wet cloth of towel and rub only the affected area. Repeat cleaning steps listed above once complete.

Tip: Glass should be cleaned by starting at the top of the building and systematically working down to glass installed on lower levels. This technique reduces the possibility of residue and cleaning solution rundown on glass previously cleaned.

Cleaning Exterior Frame

The exterior surfaces of frames may collect a layer of surface dirt over time, depending on your local environmental conditions.

Under most conditions, occasional rainfall should be sufficient to remove accumulative dirt on exterior surfaces. However in conditions with smog, excess smoke or dirt, the exterior surfaces should be cleaned more regularly to prevent damage to exterior finishes or discoloration.

Use a mild soap or diluted detergent solution with clean, warm water, and wipe surfaces gently using a clean cloth, soft bristle brush, or low pressure spray cleaner. Rinse surfaces thoroughly with clean water before soap or detergent dries.

Cleaning Hardware

Clean and lubricate hardware components regularly to prevent excess wear on hardware gears. Use a diluted household cleaner and wipe clean all hardware a component, including locks, hinges, operator arms, and handles. Always rinse hardware with clean water to remove any detergent or cleaner prior to lubricating.

To lubricate rotary drive hardware, use lithium grease, automotive grease, or Petroleum jelly.

To lubricate hinges and rollers: use silicone based lubricants Avoid using petroleum based lubricants.

Cleaning Screens

Follow exterior surface cleaning instructions for all exterior screens. Interior mounted screens can be vacuumed with a soft brush attachment or wiped with a soap & water solution. Use caution when removing and handling screens. Torn insect screens or bent screen bars are not covered by warranty.

Tip: An easy way to clean a screen is to remove it and lay it down on a flat surface. Apply a cleaning solution to the screen and let it soak for a minute. Then, rinse the screen using a low pressure spray, such as a garden hose.

Painting and Staining

Our products are designed to last with proper maintenance and care. Any unfinished or exposed wood surface, including the perimeter of the face and ends of the sash, frame and panel, must be painted or stained within 7 days of installation. Prior to painting or staining, clean surfaces of any debris, dirt or residue and ensure surfaces are completely dry.

Paint Grade Wood Extensions

Paint grade wood extensions are factory primed, and require a minimum of 2 coats of high quality paint. (Note: Half-round and curved jamb extensions are not factory primed, and should be primed prior to painting.)

Stain Grade Wood Extensions

Stain grade wood extensions are made using pacific hemlock and should have a sanding sealer (or pre-stain) applied prior to staining to prevent blotching. Apply 1 or 2 coats of stain, with a top coat of laquer or varnish.

Steel Insulated Door Slabs

Steel insulated door skins are factory primed, and require a minimum of 2 coats of high quality exterior paint. Mask off hardware, remove bottom door sweep and paint all six (6) surfaces of the door slab, including the interior and exterior surface, top, bottom, and both sides of the door stiles.

Do not close or lock door slab until completely dry.

Surface Preparation for Steel Insulated Door Slabs

To ensure good adhesion, the pre-primed surface should be lightly roughened to break the surface using 200 Grit sandpaper in the flat areas and steel wool along the embossments. The surface should be cleaned to remove dirt, foreign debris, oils, etc. with phosphate cleaner (TSP), then wiped dry with a clean towel.

Painting Steel Insulated Door Slabs

Post paint systems such as Acrylic Latex, Alkyd (solvent base) and two-part Urethanes have been successfully used to re-coat the above pre-painted finishes. It is very important to follow the paint manufacturer’s recommended application procedures to ensure the best results. Factors such as surface temperature, relative humidity, dew point and paint thickness play important roles when applying any post paint system. It is the responsibility of the applicator to ensure that the application procedure and conditions comply with the manufacturers recommendations.

Painting steel insulated door slabs black or other dark colors is NOT recommended due to the possibility of warping due to excessive heat. The same applies to non-ventilated storm doors due to excessive heat build-up.

Door Lite Insert Frames

Door lite frames must be finished using a light colored acrylic or alkyd based paint. Mask off glazing and door slab and paint or stain exterior and interior frame surfaces with at least 2 coats of paint (white frames), or 1 to 2 coats of stain with a top coat of lacquer or varnish (stain grade frames).

Interior Condensation

Surface Condensation

Frost on door handles and hinges, or door frozen shut
Water or ice on windows
Damp spots on walls and ceiling
Damp spots on closet walls
Moisture on light fixtures
Moisture on water closets
Moisture on cold water pipes, walls and floors.

What Can Affect the Performance of Windows?

(The following may cause condensation to form on a window)

Exposure - some windows in the home may be protected by other buildings, trees, etc., which form a windbreak while others are totally exposed to the wind and, therefore, colder.

Exterior Condensation

The phenomenon is only possible when the glazing unit high performance and little heat is being transmitted to the outer surface. It is not likely to occur on a cloudy night.

How to repair or replace a window screen

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 13 Mar 2012 15:02:00 +0000

Step 1: Cut the Metal Frame Bar

Begin by cutting the metal frame bar using a hack saw and miter-box. To save time and ensure uniform lengths, you can cut two lengths of bar together at the same time. Cut the equally long top and bottom pieces together, then the two identical side-pieces. The lengths of frame can be cut straight with no need for miter cuts since the corners of the frame are joined together with L-shaped corner clips.

Step 2: Install the Corner Clips

Slide the corner clips into the ends......

of the frame bars.

Step 3: Lay the New Screen Mesh over the Frame

Once you've cut and assembled the frame, you're ready to install the screening cloth. Lay the screen cloth over the frame, and use clamps to secure it and hold it flat and tight while you work. If the material has come from a roll and is not perfectly flat, lay it on the screen concave-side down. If the cloth does not come pre-cut place the cloth over the already made frame and cut the cloth a few inches bigger than the frame.

Step 5: Press the Spline into the Frame

The screen is held in the frame by spline material. Unspool a length of spline and install it by pressing it into the frame's groove using a rolling spline-tool. Gently pull the spline tight with one hand as you carefully press it into the groove with the roller. Be careful not to allow the roller to slip out of the groove as it could damage the screen cloth.

Step 6: Press the Spline into the Corners

Upon reaching the corners of the frame where the roller won't reach, use a flat-head screwdriver to press the spline into the corner and continue on with the spline tool. As the spline goes into the groove, it helps pull the screen taut. Always work in the same direction with the roller -- don't back the wheel up.

Step 7: Trim the Spline and Excess Screen Mesh

When you have installed spline all the way around the frame and come back to the starting point, trim the spline to length using a utility knife. Also use the utility knife to trim off the excess screen mesh from the outside of the frame. Allow the blade to ride along the outside of the frame's groove to ensure a straight, clean cut.

We Can Repair or make screens at The Window and Door Clearance Centre

Buy Screen Repair supplies

Heat Loss Through Windows and Doors

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sat, 10 Mar 2012 13:50:00 +0000

Heat energy tends to move from warmer areas to colder areas. This influences the rate of heat loss through window components. There is no way to get around this fundamental principle; all we can do is slow down the heat-transfer process.

There are four principal heat-transfer processes in windows.

Radiation – Radiation (the transmission of heat energy through space) causes about two-thirds of the total heat loss in a standard window. Because ordinary glass readily emits heat to colder surfaces, radiation losses can be reduced by lowering the emissivity of the glass.

Conduction – Frames and sashes are the primary elements of a window that conduct heat. Advances in materials and designs that more effectively use insulating materials have dramatically reduced losses from these sources.

Convection – Air movement in the spaces between panes of glass results in heat loss from convection. If the space is too small, conduction through the air is significant. If the air space is too large, the still air rises, as it is heated on the warm interior side and falls as it is cooled on the cold exterior side of the window. This convection movement of the air passes heat to the exterior. The best spacing to minimize convection losses is 12 to 16 mm (1/2 in. to 2/3 in.) between the glazings. Gases (argon and krypton) are often used to reduce convection heat loss. Optimum spacing for these gases can be different.

Air leakage – Air leakage is a significant contributor to energy costs during the heating and the cooling seasons. Most of the air leakage of operable windows (windows that can be opened) occurs between the window's sash and frame. Bigger windows tend to leak less air per unit area. Air leakage can also occur in poorly constructed fixed windows between the insulated glass unit and the frame. Windows that have the lowest leakage rates, regardless of type, tend to be windows that are fixed (i.e., they do not open).

Air leakage can also be a big problem if the windows are poorly or carelessly installed in the rough opening. If the space between the outside perimeter of the window frame and the opening isn't sealed properly, air will leak through it. This space should be insulated and sealed before the window trim is attached.

Information can be found:

http://oee.nrcan.gc.ca/equipment/windows-doors/10707

Condensation and Humidity

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Fri, 09 Mar 2012 13:47:00 +0000

What Is Condensation?

Condensation on windows occurs when the surface temperature of the glass (glazing), sash or frame is lower than that of the humid air around it. The moisture vapour in the air changes into liquid water on contact with these cold surfaces. Condensation will often occur at the edge of the glazing because this is where cold air is more likely to seep through. Condensation can reduce the amount of natural light that comes through the window, affecting visibility, and also cause stains, mould and peeling paint on surfaces near the window.

Exterior Condensation
Energy-efficient windows will occasionally have condensation on the exterior glass surface. This usually happens during periods of warm weather and high humidity near the time of sunrise. Because energy-efficient windows greatly reduce
the amount of heat escaping to the outside (which is good during the long periods of cold weather), the exterior glass surface is cool enough to allow condensation to form for a short period of time.

Prevention Techniques

You may have to consider one or more of the following techniques to reduce or stop condensation:

1. Condensation Resistance

Manufacturers use several techniques to increase the condensation resistance of windows. These include:

inert gas between glazings
low-emissivity (low-e) coatings that increase the temperature of the glass
insulating spacers that reduce heat conduction
non-conducting sashes and frames

Energy-efficient windows are least likely to have condensation. Their resistance to condensation, however, depends on the indoor humidity level.

2. Shading

The shading of windows, either from interior drapes and curtains, or from exterior landscape elements such as trees, will also influence the amount of solar gain. On sunny days during the winter, keep the drapes open to admit as much solar gain as possible.

Remember that the type of trees and shrubs you plant near your windows may affect the winter solar gain potential of the windows. For southern exposures, select deciduous trees that have thin branching characteristics. They will provide shade in the summer but will allow more sunlight through after they lose their leaves in the fall.

3. Curtains and Blinds

Interior window accessories such as curtains, blinds and valances must not prevent air from moving around the surface of the window. Any restriction of air movement will increase condensation on the window.

4. Hot Air Registers and Heaters

Heat loss through windows is greater than through the adjacent walls, even if the windows are energy efficient. This is why windows that have heat sources located below them are less susceptible to condensation than other windows. When the heating system is in operation, the air temperature will be higher in the vicinity of the window than in the centre of the room, resulting in increased condensation resistance. You must take care, however, to keep hot air from the registers or baseboard heaters from flowing directly onto the interior surface of the glass. Resulting thermal stress problems could cause the glass to break.

5. Humidity in Your Home

A certain amount of humidity in your home is desirable for comfort during the colder months. Windows, doors and skylights that are not energy efficient will often collect condensation or frost even when the indoor humidity is at a reasonable level. Besides obscuring the view, this condensation can lead to mould formation on the frames and sashes. With an energy-efficient ENERGY STAR® qualified product, it will take a higher indoor humidity for condensation to form.

With well-controlled humidity in your home, you may even be able to turn down your thermostat and still feel comfortable. Because humidity levels are normally higher in bathrooms and kitchens, consider installing an appropriate ENERGY STAR labelled product in these rooms to reduce or eliminate condensation on windows.

Condensation Chart: Maximum Humidity
Before Window Condensation Occurs
Outside Temperature Standard Window Energy-Efficient Window
0°C 50% 63%
–10°C 38% 50%
–20°C 26% 40%
–30°C 18% 30%
–40°C 12% 23%
Be aware that high indoor humidity can lead to the formation of mould in areas of the house other than the windows, doors or skylights.

Controlling the Relative Humidity of Indoor Air

If there are signs of excessive humidity in your house, you should increase ventilation. If you have a problem only once or twice during the winter, you can reduce or eliminate the problem by briefly opening two windows located on opposite walls or by turning on a kitchen or bathroom exhaust fan. If your home has persistent condensation problems, think about installing a controlled mechanical ventilation system. Try to use a system that incorporates a heat recovery unit and controls relative humidity control.

Humidity Reduction Tips

Disconnect humidifiers that are either fixed to your heating system or are portable.
Make sure that the clothes dryer is vented to the outside.
Use bathroom and kitchen fans that vent to the outside when bathing or cooking.
If you have a crawl space under your house, cover the beaten earth with 0.15 mm (6 mil) polyethylene. The crawl space may have to be ventilated during the summer.
Make sure that your basement is well drained and protected against excess moisture, and make sure that gutters and the slope of the land around the house drain water away from the house.
Store firewood outside.
Some airtight houses were built without mechanical ventilation systems. If high humidity is a chronic problem, consider having a heat recovery ventilator system (HRV) installed.
If you have a mechanical ventilation system, make sure that it is working properly and that it is turned on.

Information can be found:

http://oee.nrcan.gc.ca/equipment/windows-doors/8577

Windows, Doors and Skylights

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Thu, 08 Mar 2012 16:25:00 +0000

Improving the energy efficiency of your home's windows, doors or skylights (known as fenestration products) can substantially improve comfort. It can also reduce your home's energy use and cut down on greenhouse gas emissions that contribute to climate change. Purchasing the best windows, doors and skylights means finding a balance between cost, ease of operation, maintenance, durability, attractiveness and energy efficiency.

Energy-efficient fenestration products will:

reduce your home energy costs by 7 to 12 percent
reduce or eliminate cold drafts
collect less condensation
reduce noise from outside

ENERGY STAR qualified windows, doors or skylights are among the most energy efficient products in their class.

Considerations for new homes or renovations:

the importance of installation

design issues

Three common fenestration problems in existing homes:

condensation and humidity

heat loss

The ENERGY STAR name and symbol are administered and promoted in Canada by Natural Resources Canada and are registered in Canada by the United States Environmental Protection Agency.

Information found on Natural Resource Canada

Importance of Installation

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Wed, 07 Mar 2012 16:19:00 +0000

A knowledgeable professional should install windows, doors and skylights according to the manufacturer's instructions. A poorly installed product may not operate properly and could cause drafts even though the product itself is energy efficient. Poor installation may also allow water to leak into the home, leading to costly damage.

Here are some installation guidelines:

The installation should provide an airtight, insulated seal.
After installation, the window or door should retain its original shape and be level (plumb) from side to side and top to bottom. Windows may be installed on an angle...

(for example, in an attic) only if they are designed to do so.

A window or door should not support any load other than its own weight.
Any exterior finishing, such as flashing, should prevent water penetration.
A skylight should be well sealed where it meets the roofing material, and any tunnel up to the skylight – such as a tubular daylighting device – should be well insulated.
There are two types of installation for replacement windows and doors:

Complete tear out:

This involves removal of the old window, door or skylight, including the frame. Because the installer can make a completely airtight insulated seal between the product and the rough opening, this type of installation is normally recommended. The original door opening or window glass area is usually retained or enlarged.

Retrofit:

Retrofit involves the installation of a new window or door into the frame of the window or door that is being replaced. It is usually less expensive and minimizes the disturbance to the surrounding wall and trim. It also narrows a door opening and reduces the glass area of a window by about 10 percent. Skylights are typically not retrofitted. Such an installation is appropriate only if the existing frame has not deteriorated and is properly sealed and insulated.

Most suppliers offer installation, and some insist on using their own installers for warranty purposes. If your supplier does not, look for a list of window and door contractors in your local Yellow Pages. When getting estimates, ask if the contractor has training in energy-efficient installation and if the company offers a third-party warranty on products and services.

There are also installation certification programs (such as Window Wise) that train installers and warrant the quality of the installation.

Information found on Natural Resource Canada

http://oee.nrcan.gc.ca/equipment/windows-doors/2549