WineCompass

Grape Spotlight: Moravian Pálava Using Sonberk as a Benchmark

2026-06-08T07:00:00.000-04:00

Pálava tells the story of modern Moravia: a native grape rooted in tradition, yet confident enough to speak to the world. For many Czech wine lovers, Pálava represents a distinctly Moravian style of wine and is often considered one of the country's signature varieties. -- Sonberk Winery **

During an evening at the Czechia Embassy, we tasted two expressions of a local hybrid Pálava - a variety developed in Moravia by Josef Veverka from a crossbreeding Gewürztraminer and Müller-Thurgau. The new grape was named after the Pálava Hills, a UNESCO-protected landscape area in South Moravia renowned for its vineyards, limestone slopes, and centuries-old winemaking tradition. The breeding station where Veverka completed his work was located on the slopes of these hills, making the name a natural tribute to the region. Imagine the aromatics in these wines. First, though, let's step into the terroir.

Moravia is the Czech Republic's viticultural engine and is responsible for 96% of Czech wine production. The region sits along the 49th parallel, sharing a latitude with Alsace and Champagne. It also resides at the intersection of Pannonian warmth and Central European coolness which helps explain its hallmark style: high‑acid, aromatic wines shaped by warm summers, cool autumns, and slow ripening. Vineyards typically lie between 240–320 meters in elevation and the soil is a mosaic of loess, limestone, sand, and ancient seabed deposits.

Mikulov is a subregion of Moravia and is dominated by the limestone massif of Pálava -- one of Moravia’s most distinctive terroirs. It excels in Welsch Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon, and the local aromatic cross Pálava. The town of Mikulov is a cultural and wine hub, home to festivals and historic wine presses.

Pálava is a mid‑ to late‑ripening variety, typically reaching full maturity toward the end of the harvest window in South Moravia. It thrives in warm exposures where it can accumulate flavor precursors without losing acidity. The grape forms medium‑compact clusters with small to medium berries, thick enough in skin to contribute a gentle phenolic grip an advantage over its parents. Yields must be controlled; if overcropped, aromatics flatten and the wine loses its distinctive spice. In the right sites, however, Pálava develops a layered aromatic profile while maintaining enough acidity to avoid heaviness. The result is unmistakable: a wine that marries Traminer’s rose‑petal aromatics with the gentle acidity and orchard‑fruit charm of Müller‑Thurgau.

Sonberk Winery stands on a vineyard site cultivated since at least the 13th century, historically prized for its south‑facing slopes overlooking the Pálava Hills in the Mikulov subregion. Founded in 2003, the modern winery was built in 2008 and is recognized as one of Czechia’s first examples of contemporary wine architecture. Sonberk farms roughly 40–45 hectares on loess soils and produces acclaimed whites - especially Riesling, Pálava, Traminer, and Sauvignon - known for focusing on low yields, hand harvesting, and meticulous vineyard work to highlight the character of Mikulov's limestone terroir.

"One of Pálava's greatest strengths is its versatility. Few aromatic varieties are capable of expressing themselves so convincingly across different levels of sweetness. In our experience, a near-dry style with around 5–6 g/L of residual sugar offers exceptional harmony at the table, allowing the wine's freshness and aromatics to shine. At the same time, Pálava can achieve extraordinary results in sweeter styles, including traditional straw wines with residual sugar levels approaching 190 g/L, where its floral character and exotic fruit notes gain impressive depth and complexity. **"

The winery's approach to Pálava is deliberately restrained: fermentations are cool, aromatics are preserved, and residual sugar is kept in balance with acidity. The result is a style that feels modern and architectural --aromatic but not exaggerated, textured but never heavy. Sonberk’s Pálava typically shows layers of white peach, lychee, citrus blossom, and ginger, grounded by a mineral line that reflects the vineyard’s limestone base.

At the Embassy, we started with the 2024 Pálava, their everyday offering that, besides the strong floral aromas, shows tropical notes such as guava and peaches, some ginger, and all within a surprisingly fuller body. Expect minerality racing through the finish. The second expression was the Pálava 2024 VOC which shared similar traits as the previous with additional spice and texture from the oak treatment. The wine is produced under the VOC (Wine of Original Certification) appellation system, which guarantees the wine's origin and typicity. This wine provides both charm and structure. The winery believes both wines are ready for the international market. I heartily concur.

These wines are available through Wine of Czech Republic.

** Thank you to Kristína Eibl, Head of Marketing & Events at Sonberk Winery for most of the information about Pálava and the vineyard photos.

Drouet Cognac and the Character of Grande Champagne

2026-06-04T11:16:54.547-04:00

Today is World Cognac Day and thus a good excuse to revisit two cognacs from Cognac Drouet. Their 74 acres stretch across both Grande and Petite Champagne near the town of Cognac, yet every bottle they release comes exclusively from Grande Champagne fruit. This choice reflects their philosophy: a belief that the premier cru’s chalk‑rich soils, high‑acid Ugni Blanc, and slow‑maturing eaux‑de‑vie offer the most expressive foundation for long‑aged Cognac. Like the families featured in earlier WineCompass tastings -- Pierre Vallet with its meticulous cellar work and Famille Naud with its revival of historic stills -- Drouet remains firmly rooted in the historical methods that defined Cognac. Copper pot stills, small‑batch distillation, long élevage in seasoned oak, and hands‑on bottling are simply the way the family has always worked.

That commitment becomes immediately clear in their Grande Champagne VSOP. Although VSOP requires only five years in oak, Drouet ages this spirit between five and ten years, allowing the fruit to deepen and the structure to soften without losing the tension that defines the cru. The grapes come entirely from estate parcels, harvested and distilled in small 240‑liter batches by Patrick Drouet, then bottled largely by hand. The result is a VSOP that carries the richness and intensity associated with Grande Champagne’s "thoroughbred" reputation—ripe fruit, polished texture, and a sense of precision that reflects the estate’s patient approach.

Fine Mélina offers a different view into the same terroir. Distilled without wine lees, it shows a lighter, fresher profile, emphasizing clarity over weight. The spirit was aged exclusively in older casks that had previously held eaux‑de‑vie, a choice that allows the Cognac to evolve gently without strong oak influence. The 2012 vintage reveals a delicate and rich aromatic profile, with prune, chocolate, and subtle spice on the nose, followed by a palate marked by finesse and length. Where the VSOP leans into structure, Fine Mélina leans into nuance, offering an alternative counterpoint within the same estate style.

Taken together, these Cognacs show a producer deeply committed to the character of Grande Champagne and to the slow, deliberate craft that has defined the region for generations. Drouet’s work captures the essence of what makes Cognac compelling: a respect for land, a patience with time, and a belief that tradition still has something vital to say.

Beer Centric: Dutch-Style Kuyt Ale

2026-06-01T10:00:00.000-04:00

Most drinkers have never heard of Kuyt, the 14th‑century Dutch three‑grain ale built on oats, wheat, and barley — but Pittsburgh's Allegheny City Brewing is one of the rare U.S. breweries bringing it back.

Dutch-Style Kuyt (also spelled Kuit or Koyt) is a historic gold to copper colored ale that originated in the Netherlands in the 14th century. Lost Beers has an old, but still relevant, historical treatment of the style which is famous for its unique three-grain proportions: minimum 45% oats, 20% wheat malt, and the remainder pale or pilsner malt. It offers an exceptionally light, smooth, and slightly sweet flavor featuring a grainy-bready aroma and medium-low to medium bitterness.

The ACB Going Up To Cali (4.5% ABV) follows the historic ratio of three parts oats, two parts barley, one part wheat, a structure that once defined Dutch brewing before lagers took over. The result is a smooth, lightly sweet, grain‑driven ale with a bready aroma and earthy depth.

Brewers Association Beer Style Guidelines
Dutch-Style Kuit, Kuyt or Koyts are gold to copper colored ale. Chill haze and other haze is allowable. The overall aroma character of this beer is grain emphasized with a grainy-bready accent. Hop aroma is very low to low from noble hops or other traditional European varieties. The distinctive character comes from use of minimum 45% oat malt, minimum 20% wheat malt and the remainder pale malt. Hop flavor is very low to low from noble or other traditional European varieties. Hop bitterness is medium-low to medium in perceived intensity. Esters may be present at low levels. Very low levels of diacetyl are acceptable. Acidity and sweet corn-like DMS (dimethylsulfide) should not be perceived. This style of beer was popular in the Netherlands from 1400-1550. Body is low to medium. Original Gravity (ºPlato) 1.050 - 1.080 (19.3 - 12.4) ● Apparent Extract/Final Gravity (ºPlato) 1.006 - 1.015 (3.7 - 1.5) ● Alcohol by Weight (Volume) 3.80% - 6.30% (7.90% - 4.70%) ● Bitterness (IBU) 25 - 35 ● Color SRM (EBC) 5 - 12.5 (10 - 25)

Understanding Czech Wine: Insights from the Embassy "Meet the Winemakers" Masterclass

2026-05-27T06:00:00.000-04:00

This month I attended the Meet the Winemakers: Czech Wine Masterclass at the Czechia Embassy in Washington, D.C. I arrived a complete novice regarding that Central European county's geography as well as the major viticulture characteristics. A few hours later, I left with a considerably greater understanding and appreciation for the Czech wine industry.

Czechia can be divided into two major regions, Bohemia and Moravia. Bohemia forms the historic western heart of the Czech lands, long centered around Prague with more forests and mountainous terrain. This beer centric region plays only a small part of Czech wine production. On the other hand, Moravia, to the east, developed independently with its own identity distinguished by vineyards planted in fertile plains and rolling hills. And their winemaking tradition stretches back to the Roman era, when viticulture was introduced near today’s Pálava Hills.

In other words, Moravia is the Czech Republic's viticultural engine responsible for 96% of Czech wine production. The region sits along the 49th parallel, sharing a latitude with Alsace and Champagne. It also resides at the intersection of Pannonian warmth and Central European coolness which helps explain its hallmark style: high‑acid, aromatic wines shaped by warm summers, cool autumns, and slow ripening. Vineyards typically lie between 240–320 meters in elevation and the soil is a mosaic of loess, limestone, sand, and ancient seabed deposits. Moravia can be divided into four subregions with this information provided by VisitCzechia.

Znojmo — Known for aromatic white wines, especially Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Welschriesling, and Sauvignon Blanc. Gravelly soils and cooler conditions favor freshness and spice. Red wines are less common but respected in areas like Dolní Kounice. Znojmo city anchors the region with historic cellars and wine museums.
Mikulov — Dominated by the limestone massif of Pálava, this is one of Moravia’s most distinctive terroirs. It excels in Welsch Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon, and the local aromatic cross Pálava. The town of Mikulov is a cultural and wine hub, home to festivals and historic wine presses.
Velké Pavlovice — Among the sunniest areas in the Czech Republic, producing ripe, fruit‑driven wines. Sandy soils support both whites and reds, with Blaufränkisch and Saint Laurent performing particularly well. It is also one of the largest vineyard zones in Moravia.
Slovácko — The most vintner‑dense subregion, spanning South Moravia and the Zlín Region. Its varied soils and microclimates allow for a broad mix of varieties, and its villages preserve some of the region’s strongest folk and cellar traditions.

The Masterclass featured wines from each of these regions as well as one from Bohemia and was curated by sommelier Marek Broš -- one of the leading figures on the contemporary Czech food and wine scene. Winemaker Roman Fabig (FABIG Vinařství) presented information on the wines that are available through Petra Červená's Wine of Czech Republic. Then, Veronika Spevakova (Wills International) poured a couple Vinařství Spěvák wines from the Slovácko subregion. After a general presentation on the wines and regions, a select set of wines were paired with a fantastic five course meal prepared by the embassy's highly esteemed chef.

We were also able to sample the wines using exceptionally thin, durable, and hand blown stemware from Květná 1794. This is one of the oldest continuously operating glassworks in Central Europe, founded in 1794 by Prince Alois I of Liechtenstein in the beech‑forested borderlands of Strání near the Slovak frontier. It is a day long process to craft one glass and at times requires the services of twelve craftsman. Thank you to the Embassy for organizing this tremendous opportunity to discover Czech wines.

Fabig Winery (Hustopeče, Velké Pavlovice, Moravia)
Founded in 2011 in Hustopeče, Fabig is a young estate built around a singular focus on Sauvignon Blanc. Winemaker Roman Fabig farms organically and emphasizes reductive, precise winemaking to protect site expression. He produces wines known for clarity, tension, and long‑term aging potential. The winery sits in one of Moravia’s historically important vineyard towns, with vineyards spanning sand, sandstone, and claystone soils that shape the stylistic range of his dozen plus Sauvignon‑based portfolio. Two of these were the Sauvignon Blanc Sahara 2023 and Sauvignon Blanc BIG 2023.

The Sahara refers to a limestone dominant single vineyard site near the Austrian border on the Pálava hill, Pavlov village; a terrain drastically different than their home estate in Hustopeče. This is a very herbaceous wine with racy minerality lines with lemon zest. The BIG is a blend of the best grapes from three single vineyard plots fermented and matured in oak for 11 months. It has a much bigger mouthfeel with layers of citrus laced with minerals.

Sonberk Winery (Popice, Mikulov, Moravia)
Sonberk stands on a vineyard site cultivated since at least the 13th century, historically prized for its south‑facing slopes overlooking the Pálava Hills in the Mikulov subregion. Founded in 2003, the modern winery was built in 2008 and is recognized as one of Czechia’s first examples of contemporary wine architecture. Sonberk farms roughly 40–45 hectares on loess soils and produces acclaimed whites - especially Riesling, Pálava, Traminer, and Sauvignon - known for expressive fruit, minerality, and sustainable vineyard practices. One of these practices is lining the individual rows with meadow belts, which help retain water and attract beneficial insects.

During the evening we tasted two expressions of the local hybrid, and terroir named, Pálava - a variety developed in Moravia by Josef Veverka from a crossbreeding Gewürztraminer and Müller-Thurgau. Imagine the aromatics in these wines. And expect a future Grape Spotlight post. We started with the 2024 Pálava, their everyday offering that besides the strong floral aromas shows tropical notes such as guava and peaches within a surprisingly fuller body. Expect minerality racing through the finish. The second expression was the Pálava 2024 VOC which shared similar traits as the previous with additional spice and texture from the oak treatment.

THAYA Winery (Hnanice, Znojmo, Moravia)
THAYA, located near Hnanice on the edge of Podyjí National Park, is a modern estate that benefits from the cooling influence of forest terrain and the Dyje/Thaya River. The current operation opened in 2022, but the winery continues the legacy of the earlier Trávníček & Kořínek estates. THAYA farms about 105 hectares in the Znojmo subregion, producing fresh, aromatic whites - notably Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Gruner Veltliner, and Sauvignon Blanc - with a mineral driven style defined by granitic and loess‑clay soils, high acidity, and slow ripening. We saw this in action with theirsingle vineyard 2023 Pinot Blanc. The wine starts with a floral spruce and herbaceous aroma followed by a textured mouthfeel as a result of an oak treatment stressing older barrels augmented by 30% American oak. The racy minerality and acidity lifts the wine and provides a lasting finish.

J. Springer Winery (Bořetice, Slovácko, Moravia)
The Springer family’s winemaking roots date to 1807, and today the estate in Bořetice focuses on organically grown, low‑yield Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from south‑facing loess and clay‑loess vineyards. The estate vineyards were certified organic in 2007 and the winery is known for its unfiltered, terroir‑driven reds. The historic Čtvrtě and Záhebenské vineyards contribute to the winery’s reputation for elegant, cool‑climate Moravian expressions. Both vineyards are planted with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir where the vines were sourced directly from France. The cool nights and moderately warm days provide a long period of ripening.

We tasted two expressions of Pinot Noir, the 2023 Pinot Noir and 2023 Pinot Noir Roučí. The first comes is derived from grapes harvested from both vineyards and shows sour cherries throughout intermingled with herbaceousness and a soft earthy complexion. A very easy drinking lovely wine. The Roučí comes from the Čtvrtě vineyard and is a delicate wine, plum and cherries with slight spice firmed by approachable tannins. Another fantastic offering.

Kutná Hora Wine Cellars (Kutná Hora, Central Bohemia)
Venturing into Bohemia, this is a biodynamic, family‑run winery dedicated to reviving one of Bohemia’s oldest wine regions, where viticulture is documented as early as 1101. In fact, Kutná Hora is a UNESCO‑listed medieval town where monks have been growing grapes since the 12th century. The winery was founded in 2002 by Stanislav Rudolfský, with his son Lukáš assuming management three years later. They are the first and only fully certified biodynamic winery in the Czech Republic; not bad for the second largest winery in Bohemia.

At the Masterclass, we started with their Great Little Chapel 2023 - a cuvee of Pinot Gris and Chardonnay from the Nad Kapličkou vineyard in Kutná Hora. From the winery, "this vineyard is located below Kaňk hill in Kutná Hora and was planted in 2011. The soil consists of well-watered brown earth with calcareous sediments of the Mesozoic sea". Strong aromatics lead into tart then creamy stone fruit with slight spice and a mineral driven finish. Later, we enjoyed their Kutná Hora Pinot Noir 2022 paired with roasted duck breast. The grapes were grown at the Všech svatýchis vineyard located on the southern slope of Sukov hill in Kutná Hora. The soil profile here is shallow, in places we find only 10 cm of soil, under which is rocky bedrock formed by gneiss. All Kutná Hora red wines are fermented in open vats, then aged for at least one year in French oak barrels. The wines are then bottled without filtration, sometimes directly from the barrel. Expect a slight mint aroma with earthiness and pleasant tannins on the palate. Savor this one slowly.

Vinařství Spěvák (Dubňany, Slovácko, Moravia)
This is a family‑run estate that operates several vineyards within Slovácko, most situated in the Lower Morava Valley, with a diverse planting of over 30 grape varieties. The winery originated behind the Iron Curtain as a family vineyard for Frantisek and Marie Spěvák while Frantisek worked as a head agronomist at a large co-op. As a bonus, he was fortunate enough to study under Professor Vilem Kraus, an educator, expert and published author on viticulture at Mendel University in Brno. Following the Velvet Revolution (1989) and the legalization of private business establishment (1990), Vinařství Spěvák became fully licensed and official the same year as the dissolution of Czechoslovakia -- 1993. Over the next 20+ years, two sons David and Frantisek Jr., graduated from the Vocational Viniculture School in Valtice and returned to help manage the winery's operations.

Veronika Spevakova presented two Spěvák wines that showcased the age worthiness of their production methods. I discussed their Cabernet Cortis 2017 in an earlier Grape Spotlight post and am impressed with its vibrant acidity elevating the layers of black forest fruit coated in dark chocolate. Plus the firm yet approachable tannins. Their Riesling 2021 was extremely fresh and vibrant with ripe stone fruit and noticeable minerality.

Grape Spotlight: Moravian (Slovácko) Cabernet Cortis Courtesy of Vinařství Spěvák

2026-05-22T06:00:00.000-04:00

Cabernet Cortis is a dark-skinned grape variety developed in 1982 by breeder Norbert Becker at the State Wine Institute in Freiburg, Germany. It is a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon (the mother vine) and Solaris (the father vine). Solaris, itself, is a complex hybrid involving Merzling, Zarya Severa, and Muskat Ottonel. The grape variety was designed for cooler climates with the intention to combine vinifera character with improved disease resistance. The grape ripens earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon, maintains acidity in warm years, and delivers a flavor profile that leans toward blackcurrant, forest berries, herbal spice, and cocoa.

The grape has found a home in South Moravia, the Czech Republic's viticultural engine responsible for the majority of Czech wine production (96%) where the soil is a mosaic of loess, limestone, sand, and ancient seabed deposits. The region sits at the intersection of Pannonian warmth and Central European coolness, creating ideal conditions for aromatic whites and structured, cool‑climate reds. Cabernet Cortis thrives in the region’s warm summer days followed by cool autumn nights and offer growers reliable ripening without sacrificing character.

Drilling into Moravia's subregions, the Slovácko sub-region lies in the south-east of Moravia, nestled between Austria and Slovakia, and is endowed with very diverse natural conditions. The southern part of Slovácko is taken up by the land of Podluží. Most of the wine villages lie along the Morava River which is cooled by north-westerly breezes. As a cool continental wine growing-region, it is located along the same latitude as Alsace in France, Baden in Germany or Weinviertel in Austria.

"The micro-climate conditions within the close proximity of Dubnany are quite unique: the rolling hills (referred to as Moravian Toscany and sought after by acclaimed photographers) at a low altitude of no more than 200 meters [600 ft] above sea level, situated in the valley of Morava River, provide slope and aspect to the vineyards. The light black soils intensify the temperatures during hot and dry summers, moderated by the north-east winds, and help extend the growing season well into late October. Some vineyards are located atop a dead mud volcano, giving the terroir a mineral to ashy undertone. Others are abundant with heavy clay which helps with water retention during the hot summer months." -- Vinařství Spěvák

Located in Dubňany, Vinařství Spěvák is a family‑run estate known for expressive, fruit‑forward wines crafted using both classic Moravian varieties and a selection of modern crossings such as Cabernet Cortis. The winery originated behind the Iron Curtain as a family vineyard for Frantisek and Marie Spěvák while Frantisek worked as a head agronomist at a large co-op. As a bonus, he was fortunate enough to study under Professor Vilem Kraus, an educator, expert and published author on viticulture at Mendel University in Brno. Following the Velvet Revolution (1989) and the legalization of private business establishment (1990), Vinařství Spěvák became fully licensed and official the same year as the dissolution of Czechoslovakia -- 1993. Over the next 20+ years, two sons David and Frantisek Jr., graduated from the Vocational Viniculture School in Valtice and returned to help manage the winery's operations.

Spěvák operates several vineyards within Slovácko, most situated in the Lower Morava Valley, with a diverse planting of over 30 grape varieties. They have been growing Cabernet Cortis for quite awhile and leverage the the grape’s natural structure: medium body, ripe tannins, and a flavor profile that moves from blackcurrant and forest berries to cocoa and subtle spice. Their bottlings age well, benefiting from both barrel and bottle maturation - an attribute the family winemakers themselves emphasize as central to their craft. Case in point the Moravian Red Cabernet Cortis 2017 should be a cult classic. It is very concentrated for a medium‑bodied wine with layers of black forest fruit coated in dark chocolate, and firm yet approachable tannins. Plus vibrant acidity. All in a wine that is almost a decade old. A fantastic offering.

Spěvák wines are available through Wills International.

Fine Wines from Austria: A Curated Embassy Tasting with Klaus Wittauer

2026-05-20T06:00:00.000-04:00

Our visit to the Austrian Embassy during the EU Open House began with a seminar titled Fine Wines from Austria, led by Klaus Wittauer of KWSelection and hosted by Decanter Wine Boutique. Over the course of tasting nine curated wines, Wittauer guided the room through Austria’s landscapes, grape varieties, and producers with an ease that comes only from long familiarity. His commentary blended regional insight, stylistic context, and personal stories from each winery, turning the seminar into a compact tour of Austria’s wine culture. By the end, the experience felt less like an introduction and more like an invitation—one that makes you want to book a flight and continue the exploration firsthand.

The Steininger Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2025 comes from Weingut Steininger, a family‑run estate in Langenlois in the Kamptal region of Lower Austria, an area known for its cool nights, loess soils, and a long tradition of precise, aromatic winemaking. While Cabernet Sauvignon is not the dominant red grape of Kamptal - or even Austria, Steininger has built a reputation for crafting focused, elegant rosé from this international variety. Cabernet Sauvignon’s naturally thick skins and structured tannins soften beautifully when handled gently, producing a rosé with crisp red‑berry fruit, subtle herbal tones, and a refreshing mineral backbone. The wine reflects Kamptal’s ability to translate even non‑native grapes into expressions of clarity and finesse, shaped by the region’s diurnal shifts and limestone‑influenced soils.

The Paul Direder Gemischter Satz 2025 represents one of Austria’s most historic wine styles: a true field blend harvested and fermented together. Paul Direder, based in the Wagram region, works with traditional mixed plantings that include varieties such as Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Müller‑Thurgau, Fruhroter Veltliner, and others depending on the vineyard. Wagram’s deep loess soils give these blends a signature texture—round, lightly creamy, yet still lifted by bright acidity. Gemischter Satz is prized for its layered aromatics and natural balance, and Direder’s version captures the charm of the style: orchard fruit, white flowers, citrus, subtle spice, and a seamless palate.

The Steininger Ried Loisium Grüner Veltliner 2024 Kamptal DAC Reserve comes from a single vineyard adjacent to the LOISIUM wine center in Langenlois, where Grüner Veltliner thrives on a mix of primary rock and loess. Steininger is widely respected for its precise, terroir‑driven expressions of Grüner, and the Loisium site produces a particularly vibrant style. Grüner Veltliner, Austria’s flagship white grape, shows its classic traits here: white pepper, citrus, green apple, and a clean mineral line. The vineyard’s exposure and soil composition give the wine both freshness and depth, making it a benchmark example of Kamptal’s ability to produce Grüner with structure, tension, and longevity.

The Steininger Ried Kittmannsberg Grüner Veltliner 10WT Erste Lage 2023 offers a contrasting expression from another of the estate’s important single vineyards. Kittmannsberg sits slightly higher and benefits from cooler airflow, producing a Grüner Veltliner with more concentration and a deeper, more textural mid‑palate. The soils here—loess over ancient bedrock—allow Grüner to develop ripeness without losing acidity. The wine often shows richer notes of stone fruit, subtle smokiness, and a more pronounced peppery finish. It is a study in how site variation within Kamptal can shape the same grape into distinct personalities, each with its own sense of place.

The Heinrich Hartl Rotgipfler Gumpoldskirchen Thermenregion 2023 highlights one of Austria’s rarest and most regionally specific grapes. Rotgipfler is native to the Thermenregion, south of Vienna, where limestone‑rich soils and warm breezes from the Pannonian plain create ideal conditions for this aromatic, full‑bodied white variety. Heinrich Hartl is known for championing local grapes such as Rotgipfler and Zierfandler, producing wines that balance richness with precision. Rotgipfler typically shows ripe tropical fruit, floral notes, and a distinctive creamy texture supported by lively acidity. Hartl’s version captures the grape’s natural generosity while maintaining elegance, making it a standout example of a variety found almost nowhere else in the world.

The Ruttenstock Riesling Alte Reben 2023 is a blend of Himmelreich and Steinleiten fruit that comes from the Kremstal region, where Riesling thrives on steep terraces of primary rock and gravel. Weingut Ruttenstock is a family estate that focuses on clean, expressive white wines shaped by the region’s cool climate and stony soils. Riesling from Kremstal tends to be taut, aromatic, and mineral‑driven, and Ruttenstock’s bottling reflects these traits with notes of citrus, peach, and crystalline acidity. The wine’s structure and purity speak to the region’s ability to produce Rieslings that offer both approachability and aging potential.

The Paul Direder Zweigelt 2024 is a classic, easy‑drinking expression of Austria’s most widely planted red grape. Zweigelt, a crossing of Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent, is known for its juicy cherry fruit, soft tannins, and versatility. Direder’s version, bottled in a generous one‑liter format, emphasizes freshness and drinkability—an everyday wine meant for the table. Wagram’s loess soils give the wine a round, supple texture, while the grape’s natural vibrancy keeps it lively. It is a straightforward but well‑crafted example of why Zweigelt remains a staple of Austrian red wine culture.

The Steindorfer Apetlon Rouge 2022 comes from the village of Apetlon in Burgenland, near Lake Neusiedl, where warm temperatures and sandy soils create ideal conditions for red blends. Weingut Steindorfer is known for producing expressive wines that highlight the region’s ripeness and sun‑driven character. This Apetlon Rouge vintage is a blend of 40% Blaufränkisch, 30% St. Laurent, and 30%vZweigeltv-- crafted into a smooth, fruit‑forward style. The wine shows dark berries, gentle spice, and soft tannins, reflecting Burgenland’s reputation for approachable yet flavorful reds shaped by the lake’s moderating influence.

The Heinrich Hartl Ried Kräutergarten Pinot Noir Thermenregion DAC 2021 showcases the Thermenregion’s growing reputation for cool‑climate red wines. The Kräutergarten vineyard, with its limestone soils and favorable exposure, allows Pinot Noir to ripen slowly, developing aromatic complexity without losing freshness. Hartl’s approach emphasizes finesse and purity, producing a Pinot Noir with red cherry, forest floor, and subtle herbal notes—true to both the grape and the site. The wine demonstrates how the Thermenregion, once known primarily for white varieties, has become a source of elegant, Burgundian‑styled reds shaped by its unique geology and microclimate.

The Virginia: Birthplace of American Spirits Collection

2026-05-18T12:05:45.307-04:00

The Virginia: Birthplace of American Spirits Collection is a limited‑edition three‑bottle release created by the Virginia Spirits Guild to commemorate America’s 250th anniversary and to highlight the Commonwealth’s foundational role in early American distillation. Produced in partnership with the Virginia Spirits Board, the Virginia American Revolution 250 Commission, and Virginia ABC, the collection represents one of the most collaborative blending efforts in the state’s modern craft‑spirits era, with only 2,400 sets made available statewide.

The trio includes a botanical gin, a four‑grain whiskey, and an aged rum—each designed to reflect a different geographic and historical dimension of Virginia’s distilling heritage. The gin was crafted by Peter Ahlf and Kimberly Nuckols of Mt. Defiance Cidery & Distillery with blending support from Barry Haneberg of Virago Spirits and Peter Morgner of Vitae Spirits. It draws on a London Dry structure featuring Italian juniper, angelica, coriander, orris root, and lemon peel layered with Virginia botanicals such as pawpaw, rose, sassafras, and sumac to evoke the aromatic character of the state’s mountain landscapes.

The whiskey is a blend of select barrels from Ironclad Distillery, Virginia Distillery Co., Catoctin Creek, and Reservoir Distillery anchored by a five‑year bourbon, then a seven‑year American single malt, a seven‑year rye whiskey, and a six-year wheat whiskey to represent the grain‑rich agricultural heartland that shaped early American whiskey traditions.

The rum, guided by Barry Haneberg of Virago Spirits with support from Vitae Spirits, Belmont Farm, and Chesapeake Bay Distillery, reflects Virginia’s Tidewater history and its longstanding connection to maritime molasses trade, resulting in a coastal‑influenced rum rooted in early colonial production.

All three bottles are housed in a triptych‑style box illustrated by Norfolk artist Mark Todd, depicting the James River flowing from mountains to heartland to coast—a visual metaphor for the waterways that carried Virginia’s spirits traditions across four centuries. Together, the collection serves as a once‑in‑a‑generation tribute to Virginia’s claim as the birthplace of American spirits and the enduring craft that continues to define the state’s distilling community.

EU Open House Day at the Washington D.C. Embassies

2026-05-11T21:00:00.001-04:00

On Saturday we quasi-floated down the Danube River by visiting four Central European embassies -- tasting through regional cuisine in conjunction with a plethora of surprising wine options. (Yes, Czechia technically doesn't border the river, but close enough.). We started at the Austrian Embassy with a cheese and cheery strudel breakfast before entering an hour long "Fine Wines from Austria" class on Austrian wine presented by Klaus Wittauer of KWSelection and hosted by Decanter Wine Boutique. We tasted nine curated wines from a non traditional Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé and Rotgipfler to the more traditional Gruner Veltliner, Riesling, Zweigelt, Blaufrankisch-Saint Laurent-Zweigelt blend, and Pinot Noir. My favorite was the Steininger Ried Loisium Gruner Veltliner 2024 Kamptal DAC Reserve.

Unfortunately, next door at the Slovakian Embassy, the line to sample the available wines and mead were too long for a short time frame so we savored a smoked sausage then moved on to their geographic sibling Czechia.

This embassy presented a full blown beer garden atmosphere with a live band, dancers, sausages and goulash, sweet and savory pastries, Pilsner Urquell, and wine. There were two sets of wine tasting, one from Wine of Czech Republic and the other by Spevak Winery. I plan on diving deeper into their terroir and grape varieties but on first glance it appears they share some similar grapes to neighboring Austria - such as Gruner, Blaufrankish, Pinot Noir - but have a deeper affinity towards Sauvignon Blanc as well as cultivars bred for the Bohemia and Moravia environments. These include Pálava (Gewürztraminer and Müller Thurgau), Cabernet Moravia (Cabernet Franc and Zweigelt), and Cabernet Cortis (Cabernet Sauvignon and Solaris -- a white wine grape variety originally bred in Germany in 1975). I was very impressed with the age-ability of Spevak's 2017 Cabernet Cortis - as it retained plenty acidity lifting the chocolate coated, black forest fruit. Expect much more to follow on the subject of Czech wine.

Our final stop was a stroll down hill towards Rock Creek Park and the Hungarian Embassy. They were presenting plenty of dancing, gypsy and classical music, more goulash, chicken paprikas, and a small but excellent assortment of Hungarian wine. We went straight to the Böjt Egri Bikavér and the accompanying white partner: Egri Csillag. The first is a masterful blend as required according to the Bikavér regulations and built on a backbone of Kékfrankos (Blaufrankisch) -- 50%. This is followed with Pinot Noir (18%), Blauburger (18%), Cabernet Sauvignon (7%), and Zweigelt (7%). The Böjt Egri Csillag is made based on the regulations requiring Carpathian-basin varieties. This wine is a blend of Olaszrizling (Welschriesling) (46%), Leányka (32%), Sauvignon Blanc (16%), and Muscat Ottonel (6%). Fantastic wines to sip watching the Vizslas run across the embassy grounds.

The April Freeze That Rewrote the 2026 Vintage: Virginia and Maryland’s Grape Losses

2026-05-07T18:46:00.006-04:00

The Mid‑Atlantic wine industry is no stranger to weather drama, but the April 21st 2026 freeze and radiational frost carved its own chapter into regional history. After an unseasonably warm March pushed vines into early budbreak, a sudden plunge into the low 20s°F delivered a blow that many growers describe as the most severe in decades. This was a hard freeze - not simply frost - and even the most orchestrated mitigation efforts had no affect. Other wineries experienced radiational frost where the heavier cold air flowed to the lower lying vineyard plots, pushing up the warmer air. What followed was not just a crop loss -- it was a structural shock to both Maryland and Virginia, whose wine economies have matured into nationally recognized industries.

Frost mitigation in vineyards and orchards centers on one goal: keeping developing buds and blossoms above the critical temperature at which tissues are damaged. Growers typically combine site selection, canopy management, and active frost‑control tools to reduce risk. Cold air drainage is foundational -- orchards and vineyards are often planted on slopes or elevated benches so dense, freezing air can flow away rather than pool around vines or trees. Within the block, growers maintain open alleyways and avoid windbreaks that trap cold air. These passive strategies don’t eliminate frost risk, but they significantly reduce the frequency and severity of damaging events.

When temperatures drop toward freezing, growers turn to active interventions. Wind machines or helicopters -- for businesses with deeper pockets -- mix warmer air from the inversion layer with colder surface air, often raising temperatures by 2–4°F across several acres. Potassium-based sprays add a useful physiological buffer to the broader frost‑mitigation toolkit used in vineyards and orchards. When applied ahead of a cold event, potassium strengthens cell membranes, improves osmotic balance, and supports carbohydrate movement -- factors that help buds tolerate slightly lower temperatures before injury occurs. Overhead irrigation is another widely used method: as water freezes around buds, it releases latent heat, keeping tissues at 32°F even when ambient temperatures fall lower. Some regions rely on heaters or strategically placed burn barrels or wood piles to raise temperatures.

Yet, on April 21st, when the freeze arrived, most vineyards were past the point where wind machines, fires, or helicopter downdrafts could meaningfully help. Growers across the region described the same morning scene: blackened shoots, collapsed leaves, and the unmistakable smell of frost‑burned vegetation. In Maryland, the damage spread from the western shore of the Chesapeake to the Blue Ridge Mountains, with the most severe cases found in the Catoctin Valley along the Route 15 corridor. Many wineries reported 90-100% loss of both primary and secondary buds. For instance, Black Ankle Vineyards - a very respected producer - lost their entire 2026 crop.

In Virginia, the damage was widespread, most notably, from the Loudoun Valley, the Shenandoah Valley, and throughout the Monticello AVA. In that historic American Viticultural Area, wineries also reported 90-100% loss of both primary and secondary buds. Apple and pear orchards in the Shenandoah Valley were particularly hit hard because an earlier April frost had damaged many primary buds and the April 21st event killed off the secondary shoots.

Secondary buds sit beside the primary bud within the compound bud. When the primary bud is damaged, the secondary bud typically survives and can push a new shoot in spring. This replacement shoot is vital. First, it restores canopy growth, allowing the vine to photosynthesize and rebuild carbohydrate reserves. Second, it often produces fruit, though usually fewer clusters than a primary bud would have. In short, they act as the vine’s built‑in backup system, ensuring both fruiting potential and the maintenance of vegetative growth needed for long‑term vine health.

In theory, vines planted on higher plots are safer from the radiational frost since the heavier cold air flows to the lower areas. And, in theory, early budding grape varieties like Pinot Gris would be more susceptible to frost damage. And Virginia's Three Fox Vineyards lost most of these plantings. In Maryland, Catoctin Breeze Vineyard owner Adam Fizyta reported they lost 100% of their Albariño - an early to mid budding variety. And in an informative blog post, the The Vineyards at Dodon detailed that in their region just west of the Chesapeake Bay, "Only the vineyards along the Chesapeake and at 6-800 feet above a valley floor survived unscathed..."

However, these expectations were not uniformly felt. Melissa Aellen, winemaker at Maryland's Linganore Winecellars, informed us that a plot of Petit Verdot (which traditionally buds early) that was planted at a higher elevation survived mostly intact and will account for some of the 10% of estate vines that survived. Similarly, but in contrast, Keith Morris, the General Manager at Big Cork Vineyards reported that about 80% of their Petit Verdot survived, but these vines were planted at the winery's lowest plots.

Another example showing the unpredictability of the damage occurred in Lindon, Virginia -- located just east of Front Royal. Over several Facebook posts, Jim Law of Linden Vineyards reported that for the first time the famous Hardscrabble Vineyard was hit by frost with a possible 20–30% crop loss, unusually high for a vineyard known for its frost resilience. However just across Route 66 to the North, Capstone Vineyards, Crimson Lane Vineyards, and Fox Meadow Winery - a trio of vineyards surrounding St. Dominic's Monastery - fared with only minimal damage. Yet, on the western edge of Front Royal, Reitano Vineyards lost their entire 2026 crop.

Courtesy of the Virginia Farm Bureau

In those Facebook posts, Jim Law also summarized what growers in the Mid-Atlantic are experiencing. "Finally as to the lower parcels that were completely frosted, we are just hoping they can be back in production for 2027. These poor vines have already experienced two years of sap sucking Spotted Lanternflies, two drought years, and a severe winter. Initial growth is generated by stored carbohydrates from the previous growing season. This spring those frosted shoots had already used up a lot of their reserves, so we worry about how much more is now available."

The Maryland Department of Agriculture called the freeze "one of the most significant crop losses in recent memory." The Virginia Wineries Association characterized the event as one of the most significant frost episodes in 15–20 years. But, economically, what does it mean? Particularly since wineries in Virginia and particularly in Maryland were already working off a 40-50% reduction in yields from 2025 because of several weather and pest events.

In a lengthy blog post titled 2026, the Lost Vintage, Drew Baker of Burnt Hill Farm and Old Westminster Winery states that both wineries suffered a 100% loss in primary buds equating to a loss of 100 tons of fruit. On average, one ton of grapes yields about sixty cases of finished wine, or 720 bottles; thus 100 tons of lost fruit translates to roughly 72,000 bottles of wine never actualized. Drew also reminds us that, "The fruit may be gone, but the expenses are not. Payroll remains. Equipment costs remain. Repairs remain. Farming inputs remain. We still have a full time team farming these vines. We still have to mow, tuck shoots, manage canopy, monitor disease pressure, train trunks, control weeds, maintain trellis, and make careful decisions block by block."

In addition, the uneven ripening of any remaining primary and secondary shoots will add more to labor costs; this event created even more vineyard maintenance. As Jim Law states, "With strategic and meticulous thinning some will have a full crop and others a partial crop. However there could be a lack of uniformity. Vines should have even separation between shoots and clusters so each receives the same amount of sun and air flow within the canopy. But in the 'partially frosted' vines we will have clumps of fruitful shoots, crowding some areas and at the same time gaps along the trellis where nothing is growing. Eventually new shoots will emerge with clusters that will be weeks behind. This would lead to uneven ripening and poor wine quality (what we refer to as an 'underripe/overripe' profile). We need to remove the clusters by hand before color change in August while we can still see a distinct difference. By harvest time they would all look the same, but taste very different." And this could delay harvest waiting for these clusters to ripen. Keith Morris conjectured that he wouldn't be surprised to see harvest last into mid-late November for many growers.

What are producers doing next? Most Maryland farm wineries operate under a Class 4 Limited Winery license where they must either have planted 20 acres of estate vines or "at least 51 percent of the ingredients used in the annual production of the license holder’s wine are Maryland-grown agricultural products". According to a spokesperson for the Maryland Department of Agriculture, the state has not yet issued a uniform exemption to this regulation, but impacted wineries can can apply for individual exemptions. The situation is very similar in the Commonwealth. The Virginia ABC requires "Farm Wineries" to grow or lease a specified percentage of the fruit used in the production of their wines -- usually 51%. Wineries can apply for a Fruit Loss Exemption Waiver with the Virginia Department of Agriculture and purchase outside fruit.

Wineries are scrambling to source fruit from other regions. Big Cork Vineyards was able to sign contracts with several Maryland growers on the Eastern Shore that were not overly impacted by the April 21st event. Several wineries mentioned that they are pivoting to New York - specifically the Niagara Escarpment and Finger Lakes. The Texas Hill Country is another option wineries are exploring, particularly for those wanting to replace lost Tempranillo, Tannat, Viognier, and Syrah. Washington state and Lodi are other available options.

The event has also showcases the collaborative nature of the industry. Yes, in one sense these wineries are competitors, but they also see each other as family and will be assisting each other to survive. For instance, expect wineries to band together when sourcing outside fruit in order to generate economies of scale. They will then contract this fruit or juice to smaller wineries at the discounted price - a price small wineries would never be able to receive on their own.

What should consumers expect? Smaller 2026 releases. Lots of library wines. Expect wineries to present more vertical tastings. Expect wines labelled American and not estate or AVA specific. But mostly, expect a plunge in the supply of local wine. Even before this event, Big Cork Vineyards had much less red wine in barrel due to the smaller 2025 yields. The same is probably true for other Maryland and Virginia wineries. Consumers can help these wineries remain afloat by visiting or targeting local wines. We didn't list all the wineries that suffered damage, but we recommend treating each as if they lost everything. Visit WineCompass.com to plan a trip to wine county.

The Layered World of Papa’s Pilar: Solera Aged Rum

2026-04-30T16:16:00.003-04:00

After numerous trips to Key West, I finally scheduled a tour and tasting at the Hemingway Rum Company – Papa’s Pilar Distillery. Many visitors recognize the brand’s distinctive bottle shape, which I learned is modeled after Hemingway’s GI canteen. According to the distillery, he carried two—one for water and one for rum—an anecdote that frames how the brand links its production philosophy to Hemingway’s life and to the island’s maritime history. Papa’s Pilar was founded by Steve Groth (who also co‑founded Angel’s Envy Bourbon) with the approval of the Hemingway family. The name comes from Pilar, Hemingway’s fishing boat, and Groth’s first major decision was hiring seventh‑generation Master Distiller Ron Call, whose 45‑year career includes decades with Cruzan Rum and other Florida distilling operations.

The distillery occupies a former naval warehouse within one of Key West’s main tourist corridors, and the tour centers on the history of rum production, the development of the brand, the sourcing of its blends, and the role Hemingway’s life plays in shaping its identity. The distillery uses this connection as a framework for explaining its focus on exploration, blending traditions, and global rum influences.

The tour began with an overview of Caribbean rum production, starting in Barbados and the British Navy, and then tracing how “kill‑devil” rum moved north into the American colonies. One local historical detail stood out: when George Washington’s older half‑brother, Lawrence Washington, inherited the family estate, he renamed it after Edward Vernon, a friend and vice admiral in the British Navy. The rum connection comes from Vernon’s 1740 order requiring sailors’ rum rations to be diluted with water—a mixture that became known as “grog,” after Vernon’s nickname, “Old Grog.”

Moving further inside the facility, visitors see the solera-style aging system that defines much of Papa’s Pilar’s production. The brand blends rums from multiple regions -- Caribbean, Latin & South America, and Florida -- before aging and finishing them on-site. The tour highlights how different barrels contribute to the final profiles, with explanations of the role played by ex-bourbon, port, and sherry casks. This approach reflects the company’s goal of creating rums that echo the layered, traveled character associated with Hemingway’s journeys rather than tying the product to a single geographic origin.

The tour briefly stopped between the copper pot still and column still for a broad overview of the distillation process. Using test tubes, the guide showed examples of each stage from the distillations to the various aging within the solera.

The visit ended with a sampling of several expressions including Rye finished and Sherry finished rums. My favorite was the Papa's Pilar Flagship Blonde Rum which after distillation is Solara blended and finished in ex-Bourbon barrels and Spanish Oloroso Sherry casks. Enjoy neat to savior the vanilla and banana notes or in a Mojito. The Papa’s Pilar Dark Rum is richer, drawing on a broader mix of aged components and deeper finishing casks to create a more robust profile. This maturation includes ex-Bourbon barrels, Port barrels, and Spanish Oloroso Sherry casks. Then there's the
Papa’s Pilar Sherry Cask Finish Rum. It begins with the dark blend, then undergoes final maturation in 20-year-old Spanish Oloroso Sherry casks. Expect additional layers of nuts, spice, and toffee. Finally, the Papa’s Pilar Rye-Finished Rum is intense. It starts with the same aging process as the Dark Rum, but then finishes in American rye whiskey barrels that provide loads of spice and black pepper.

The tour is highly recommended regardless of where you stand within the drinks business hierarchy or a fan of Hemingway, himself. The distillery uses its connection to Hemingway as a historical anchor, not a marketing gimmick. And visitors will get a clear history of rum as well as the blending, aging, and the decisions behind each Papa's Pilar expression.

Grape Spotlight: The Stover Grape

2026-04-27T16:04:00.004-04:00

"The Stover grape is a hybrid cultivar developed by the University of Florida’s breeding program. It is a yellow/bronze small grape. The flavor is mild and free from excessive sweetness or tartness. Clusters are medium size and the sugar content is 17-18% with a mild taste. ‘Stover’ is a golden-fruited, long-lived variety with improved dessert and holding qualities. The fruit ripens in July and August." - Fiorelli Winery

Specifically, the Stover grape cultivar was developed at the Leesburg Agricultural Research Center and is named in honor of Loren Stover (1898–1993), Florida’s "Mr. Grape". Stover was a pioneering horticulturist who developed this variety in 1956 to be resistant to Pierce’s disease and other fungal issues prevalent in Florida’s humid climate. The cultivar is a cross between Mantey and Seyve‑Villard 12‑309. Mantey is a self‑fertile seedling of unknown parentage, but derived primarily from Vitis coriacea Shuttleworthii and contributes disease resistance, heat tolerance, and adaptation to the southeastern U.S. Seyve‑Villard 12‑309 or Roucaneuf (developed by breeder Bertille Seyve at the Seyve‑Villard program in France) is complex French hybrid with ancestry rooted in V. vinifera and V. rupestris and contributes fruit quality, cluster structure, and improved table‑grape characteristics.

Fiorelli Winery & Vineyard, located just outside Bradenton Florida, grows Stover and uses the grape in their semi-sweet Chill white white wine. The winery was founded in 1998 by Antonio and Rosa Fiorelli, Sicilian immigrants from Casteldaccia. Antonio began cultivating the estate with fruit bearing trees and a few grape vines and soon the operation expanded to 7.5 acres of vines and a full estate operation with dedicated production and tasting facilities. The grapes consist of several Florida‑adapted muscadine varieties -- including Noble, Carlos, and other bronze and black muscadines -- along with bunch‑grape hybrids such as Blanc du Bois and Conquistador. Their portfolio includes dry to semi‑sweet table wines, muscadine‑based reds and blushes, and fruit wines made from blueberry, strawberry, peach, and apple.

The Essence of the Olive: How do Olive Trees Pollinate

2026-04-24T08:32:00.002-04:00

A couple weeks ago I saw a post from Cobram Estate discussing wind‑driven pollination and decided this topic needed a deep dive in The Essence of the Olive. Many olive trees are self-fertile - such as the Greek Koroneiki cultivar planted in Laconiko's orchards. On the other hand, other olive trees require a compatible partner to achieve meaningful fertilization. According to Cobram Estate, "Our groves are designed with wind pollination in mind to optimize pollination across all varieties. We grow over 12 different types, a mix of both fertile and self-fertile olive varieties, which helps ensure that our trees can thrive, even in different conditions. The design of our groves and careful selection of varieties helps maximize both cross-pollination and self-pollination, ensuring healthy, high-quality olives." Let's dive deeper.

Olive trees (Olea europaea) rely on a strictly wind‑driven pollination system in which large quantities of lightweight pollen are released from the anthers (1) and dispersed through the canopy and across nearby trees. The flowers themselves are small and pale, producing no scent or nectar, which is consistent with anemophily (wind pollination) rather than insect‑mediated pollination. Each inflorescence contains both perfect flowers, which have functional male and female organs, and staminate flowers, which contain only stamens and contribute primarily to pollen production. During bloom, airborne pollen grains land on receptive stigmas, germinate, and grow pollen tubes toward the ovule. Successful fertilization depends on both environmental conditions—such as moderate temperatures and dry weather during anthesis—and the genetic compatibility between the pollen and the flower receiving it.

Although olive trees produce abundant pollen, many cultivars exhibit partial or complete self‑incompatibility, meaning that their own pollen is unable to fertilize their flowers effectively. In these cases, the pollen tube is slowed or blocked before reaching the ovule, resulting in very low fruit set when only a single cultivar is present. Even cultivars considered self‑fertile often show improved fruit set, more regular bearing, and higher yields when cross‑pollinated by a genetically distinct variety with overlapping bloom. The degree of self‑compatibility varies widely: some cultivars can set fruit with their own pollen under favorable conditions, while others require a compatible partner to achieve meaningful fertilization. Because wind dispersal is most effective over short distances, orchards typically interplant compatible cultivars within the same block to ensure that pollen from one variety reaches the flowers of another during the brief window of stigma receptivity.

In practical terms, the presence of multiple varieties is not universally required, but it is beneficial in most production settings and essential for self‑incompatible cultivars. Cross‑pollination supports more consistent fruiting, reduces the risk of poor set in years with marginal weather, and aligns with the reproductive biology of a species that evolved to favor outcrossing. As a result, orchard design commonly incorporates at least two cultivars with synchronized bloom periods to take advantage of the natural wind‑driven pollination system that underpins olive reproduction.

(1) Anthers are the pollen-producing structures located at the tip of the stamen, which is the male reproductive organ of a flower. The primary function of the anther is to produce, store, and release pollen for plant reproduction. When the pollen is mature, the anther undergoes a process called dehiscence, where it splits open to disperse the pollen grains via wind, insects, or other animals, facilitating fertilization of the female parts of the flower.

Tropical Wine in South Florida's Schnebly Redland's Winery

2026-04-20T06:30:00.005-04:00

Florida’s Redland agricultural district is a historic farming region in southern Miami‑Dade County, defined by its distinctive red clay soils over oolitic limestone (sedimentary rock formed from ooids, spherical grains composed of concentric layers) and a long tradition of subtropical and tropical crop production. Settled in the early 20th century after the expansion of Henry Flagler’s Florida East Coast Railway, the area became a hub for mangoes, avocados, lychees, and other fruits rarely grown at scale elsewhere in the continental United States.

Schnebly Redland’s Winery leverages it's Redland location by growing and sourcing tropical fruit within a four mile radius of the agricultural district for their innovative fruit‑based winemaking. Known as the southernmost winery in the continental United States, the operation was started by Peter and Denisse Schnebly and offers an immersive experience shaped by waterfalls, tiki huts, and expansive gardens. The tasting room and grounds are surrounded by coral stone blocks and thatch roofs, enclosing the facility in a tropical village. Entering the grounds visitors pass a koi pond and then to a large covered pavilion.

The winery produces a range of dry to sweet still and sparkling wines from avocado, lychee, mango, coconut, guava, pineapple, carambola (starfruit), and passion fruit. Quite a portfolio. I've been a fan of their dry avocado wine (AvoVino) for many years - I just find it truly unique and flavorful. Why avocado wine? The story goes that was an avocado field where the fruit was too overripe for resale, so they tested their ability to make wine out of the single-seeded berry. And it worked. The Carambola was another top choice providing a juicy pear-like profile finishing with a little almond bitterness. Oddly, it was very similar to to a Herzegovina Žilavka that we opened the next day. Finally, the off-dry CocoVino - made exclusively from coconuts - was our third option. Think lemons and coconuts. The winery had a special purchase three with a free bottle and we choose the semi-sweet Mango - just to have a wine with a stronger tropical profile and to eventually experiment with some rum cocktails.

Although we didn't spend too much time at the winery, Schnebly Redland's Winery is a destination with a restaurant, live music pavilion, and the Miami Brewing Company within the complex. Try the Big Rod Coconut Ale to stay in the tropical theme.

Exploring Old Town Key West’s Distilleries and Breweries

2026-04-16T08:44:00.002-04:00

Exploring Key West’s craft beverage scene is unusually simple thanks to the close proximity of several notable producers. Within a short walking radius in Old Town, visitors can move from two rum distilleries to three breweries while learning about the history behind each brand and the products they make. Key West Legal Rum, Papa’s Pilar Rum, Southernmost Pint Brewpub, The Waterfront Brewery, and First Flight Island Restaurant & Brewery each offer a distinct perspective on local production, yet all are easy to visit in a single, unhurried loop.

Start your tour along the harbor at The Waterfront Brewery and enjoy lunch and a flight watching the boats sail in. The brewery opened a decade ago and produces a wide range of beers including pilsners, IPAs, porters, and rotating specialty releases. Its production facility and taproom share the same building, allowing guests to see the brewing equipment while sampling the core lineup. Their Crazy Lady Blonde Golden Ale is a stable throughout the island and you can probably find Island Life Lager in several establishments - definitely at Hanks. For my money, go with the Danny Gunz ESB (Extra Special Bitter).

Head west from the harbor and enter the life of Ernest Hemingway. Papa’s Pilar Rum is named after Hemingway’s famous boat and the brand was created to reflect the writer’s connection to Key West and his global travels. The distillery occupies a former naval warehouse and produces blended rums sourced from multiple regions, aged and finished on-site. Core products include the Blonde Rum and Dark Rum, each with defined profiles shaped by solera-style aging and barrel finishing. I highly recommend the tour which provides excellent information on the history of molasses and rum production through the eyes of the British Navy and American colonists.

The tour turns to Hemingway's life and how the distillery incorporates various aspects such as the unique bottle shape -- mimicking Hemingway's GI canteen. Apparently he carried two canteens, one filled with rum. The visit ends with a sampling of several expressions including a Rye finished rum and Sherry finished rum. My favorite was the Papa's Pilar Flagship Blonde Rum which is sourced from several sources from the Dominican Republic, Venezuela, Panama, and Florida; then Solara blended and finished from ex-Bourbon barrels and Spanish Oloroso Sherry casks. Enjoy neat to savior the vanilla and banana notes or in a Mojito.

Key West Legal Rum was founded by chef and entrepreneur Paul Menta and operates out of a restored 1900s-era tobacco warehouse -- just a block away from Papa's Pilar. The distillery focuses on small-batch, pot-distilled rums made from Florida sugarcane. Their lineup includes the Key West First Legal Rum (a white rum showcasing the Demerara sugar cane), Key West Bad Bitch Rum Spanish Marie (aged in French oak barrels that held Pinot Noir wine for seven years.) and several flavored expressions that highlight local ingredients such as Key lime and coconut. Yet, their most interesting and tasteful product is the Key West Raw and Unfiltered Rum. It is aged in new American oak barrels with a #3 char where each barrel was cured in salt water from the ocean. As the salt dries on the inside of the barrel, it seals in and condenses the rich flavors of the charred American oak. This rum is very complex - lots cooking spices covered in honey.

Moving along, the Southernmost Pint Brewpub is only a few minutes away. Founded by Tadd Maudlin with the Blast Beer Company, the brewpub focuses on approachable, island‑appropriate beer styles. For instance, the 3.3% and fantastic English Dark Mild: Birmingham Pub. Include that beer in every flight. I continued with the Southernmost Pint Golden Ale, Heck Yeah Helles Lager, Key West Cream Ale, and Key Lime Gose Sour. All were delicious and right on style - particularly the Cream Ale which avoided the sweet lactose overdose of many versions and concentrated on crystal clear flavors. You won't find a stop with this range of delicious expressions.

Finish your excursion with the longest segment -- passing Sloppy Joe's, Rick's, and Captain Tony's -- to First Flight Island Restaurant & Brewery. The brewery is located in the building where Pan American World Airways was founded in 1927, the site originally served as the airline’s first office and ticketing headquarters. Thus, expect an aviation theme. In that regard, before rebranding in 2017, the location was home to Kelly’s Caribbean Bar, Grill & Brewery -- owned by Top Gun actress Kelly McGillis. The brewery produces a core lineup of Old Havana Red Amber Ale, Capt. Maverick IPA, and the Sunset Clipper Citrus Wheat. Unfortunately the restaurant was hosting a wedding during our visit, so we detoured across the street to Hank's Hair of the Dog Saloon and a meal at Garbo's Gill paired with the Waterfront's Island Life Lager.

What ties these five locations together is their accessibility. All are situated within a compact section of Old Town, eliminating the need for transportation and allowing visitors to move easily from one producer to the next. The short distances make it possible to learn about the history of each brand, understand the products they make, and experience Key West’s beverage landscape in a single, efficient route. Cheers to Key West and these unique craft beverage producers.

The Essence of the Olive: Understanding Moroccan Olive Oil

2026-04-06T07:00:00.002-04:00

Morocco is one of the world’s major olive‑oil‑producing countries, with a cultivation history that stretches back thousands of years. Archaeological evidence indicates that wild olive trees existed in the region as early as the 9th millennium BC, and scholarly debate continues over whether indigenous Berber communities may have domesticated olives before Phoenician traders arrived around 1000 BC. Linguistic evidence supports this possibility: the Berber word for the cultivated olive tree, Azemmour, has no Semitic roots, suggesting an origin predating Phoenician influence. The Romans later expanded olive cultivation significantly. During the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD, the Romans established extensive groves and oil‑pressing facilities across Mauretania Tingitana, with archaeological sites such as Volubilis preserving well‑designed ancient mills that illustrate the scale of production during this period.

Olive growing has remained embedded in Moroccan agriculture and daily life ever since, with many families continuing to manage small groves using practices passed down through generations. Today, Morocco produces roughly 140,000 to 250,000 metric tons of olive oil annually, depending on harvest conditions, and maintains more than 1.2 million hectares of olive trees across diverse microclimates.

The country’s olive sector is dominated by a single cultivar, Picholine Marocaine, which accounts for approximately 96% of national production. It is a Moroccan variant of the French Picholine olive from the Languedoc region. This variety produces oils that are typically fruity, slightly bitter, and peppery, with notable almond‑like notes and naturally high polyphenol content. Beldi is an umbrella term for local, heirloom Moroccan varieties which includes Moroccan Picholine. Two additional varieties - Haouzia and Menara - are also cultivated, contributing robust or milder, buttery characteristics to blended oils .

Olive trees thrive across several key regions, each contributing distinct characteristics to the country’s oils. Meknes is widely recognized as Morocco’s primary olive‑oil region and holds Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status for its extra virgin oils. The Fez–Marrakech plains contain extensive traditional orchards that tend to produce slightly bitter, structured oils, while coastal areas such as Essaouira and Agadir yield more delicate, fruity profiles. High‑altitude groves in the Atlas Mountains add further diversity due to their unique microclimates . Harvesting typically occurs from October to January, often by hand to avoid bruising the fruit. Olives are then transported quickly to mills, where both traditional stone presses and modern centrifugal systems are used. Cold‑pressing remains standard practice to preserve quality and minimize oxidation, supporting the production of extra virgin oils with strong sensory and nutritional attributes.

This Moresh Moroccan Extra Virgin Olive Oil was available through Publix, but its also sold through Wholefoods. Its the first Moroccan olive oil with traceability - with all single origin information available through scanning the QR code on the bottle. This information includes origin, harvest dates, bottling date, test results, and certifications. The Beldi Moroccan Picholine olives for this bottle were grown from dry sun drenched estates throughout Morocco mostly from Marrakech, Meknes, and Fes. This oil contain a number of early harvested olives which elevate the polyphenol count to 360 mg/kg at bottling. The olive oil starts with a smooth buttery almond flavor that eventually leads to a slightly peppery and bitter finish.

Grape Spotlight: San Marco from Trentino-Alto Adige to the Outer Coastal Plain AVA

2026-04-01T15:39:00.002-04:00

San Marco is a Vitis vinifera red wine grape created in 1993 by breeder Marco Stefanini at the Fondazione Edmund Mach in Trentino-Alto Adige. It is a cross of the very popular Trentino-Alto Adige grapes Teroldego × Lagrein in order to create a wine grape that ripens fully in cooler climates; resist botrytis better than its parents; and still produced deeply colored and structured wines.

In 2011, Larry Coia of Bellview Winery visited the Foundation Edmund Mach and learned about EC02 - the name originally given to this grape. Trentino-Alto Adige experiences hot summers, cold winters, and significant diurnal shifts which are conditions similar to parts of the U.S. East Coast. Thus, through his recommendation, the following year the Outer Coastal Plain Vineyard Association (OCPVA) imported the grape into the U.S.. Following release from quarantine, the OCPVA trademarked the name as San Marcus and through a petition from Bellview Winery, the TTP approved use of San Marco as a registered grape variety.

The Outer Coastal Plain AVA, established in 2007 and expanded in 2017, stretches across 2.25 million acres of southern and southeastern New Jersey, making it one of the largest and most quietly influential winegrowing regions on the East Coast. The region’s defining feature is its uniform soil profile—well‑drained sandy and sandy‑loam soils derived from ancient coastal sediments, naturally low in fertility and pH, which help control vine vigor and encourage deep rooting. Climatically, the AVA benefits from a 188‑ to 217‑day growing season, moderate rainfall, and the moderating effects of the Atlantic Ocean and Delaware Bay, which reduce frost risk and temper heat spikes.

San Marco thrives in environments with hot summers, cold winters, and when planted in sandy and clay soils. It buds late helping to shield from Spring frost and produces medium sized and loose clusters. It seems more suited for VSP training and shares a similar late-midseason harvest as Cabernet Franc. Although it is resistant to botrytis, it is not resistant to black rot or downy mildew.

Autumn Lake Winery, located in Williamstown, New Jersey, is one of the Outer Coastal Plain AVA producers actively developing and releasing wines from San Marco. I was able to sample their 2021 San Marco at the 2026 Eastern Winery Exposition and was impressed with the dark fruit, structure, and smooth tannins shown by this wine.

The Essence of the Olive: California’s Modern Revival with Cobram Estate

2026-03-26T07:00:00.004-04:00

California’s olive‑oil story is a blend of old roots and new energy. Spanish missionaries planted the first olive trees along the coast in the late 18th century, establishing groves that supported local communities for generations. Commercial production expanded in the late 1800s, but it wasn’t until the 1990s that a true quality‑driven revival began. Growers adopted modern milling technology, planted high‑density orchards, and focused on early harvesting to produce cleaner, fresher oils. Today, California is recognized as a leading producer of extra virgin olive oil in the United States, with a reputation built on transparency, strict standards, and a commitment to freshness.

Varieties Shaped by Climate and Craft
California’s diverse climates—from the cool Sonoma coast to the warm Central Valley—support a wide range of olive varieties.

Arbequina — Widely planted in high‑density orchards, producing smooth, fruity oils with notes of green apple and almond.
Arbosana — A Spanish variety that thrives in California’s warm valleys, yielding structured oils with herbaceous, nutty tones.
Koroneiki — Originally from Greece, now common in California for its robust character, high polyphenols, and peppery finish.
Mission — California’s heritage variety, descended from the original mission plantings, offering a mild, balanced profile with soft fruit and light spice.

Producers often blend these varieties to create oils that balance fruitiness, bitterness, and pungency, while single‑varietal bottlings highlight the state’s microclimates and precise milling practices.

What Defines California EVOO
California’s producers emphasize freshness and clarity. Early harvesting is common, resulting in greener, more aromatic oils with higher antioxidant levels. Modern mills allow olives to be crushed within hours of picking, preserving volatile aromas and minimizing defects. The state’s standards were established by the Olive Oil Commission of California (OOCC) to reinforce quality by requiring chemical and sensory testing. Membership is mandatory for producers who produce 5,000 gallons or more of olive oil annually. These standards often exceed international norms such as Free fatty acid or free acidity (FFA), Peroxide value (PV), and Ultra violet absorbency (UV).

Free fatty acid or free acidity (FFA)

A measurement of the breakdown of the fats. It gives some indication of oil quality based on fruit quality and handling. Although FFA does not change much over the life of oil, a lower FFA level at production will contribute to longer shelf life. The California standard is <=0.5 compared to <=0.8. Peroxide value (PV) A measure of peroxide compounds arising from primary oxidation. A high peroxide value usually indicates poor processing, and that the oil might not keep well. The final stage in oxidation is peroxide breakage, resulting in the formation of new compounds that we can perceive as rancid smelling. The California standard is <=15 compared to <=20. Ultra violet absorbency (UV) An indicator of oxidation using the UV spectrum at different wavelengths. K232 is considered a critical marker for good quality extra virgin olive oil. Oxidation is the result of natural aging or indicative of poor handling or heating during the refining process. The California standard is <=2.4 compared to <=2.5.

Producer Spotlight: Cobram Estate
Cobram Estate has become one of California’s most influential olive‑oil producers, combining large‑scale farming with a focus on precision and freshness. Originally founded in Australia, the company expanded into California’s Sacramento Valley, where warm days, cool nights, and well‑drained soils support high‑quality fruit. Their five orchards are planted primarily with Arbequina, Arbosana, and Koroneiki varieties that respond well to early harvesting and modern, high‑density farming. They also operate a nursey in the Sonoma Valley where only the strongest trees are planted in the orchards.

The hallmark of Cobram Estate’s approach is control over every step of production. Olives are harvested mechanically at peak ripeness and milled within hours in their on‑site facility, preserving the green, aromatic compounds that define their style. Their oils are known for vivid fruit, balanced bitterness, and a clean peppery finish -- qualities that have earned consistent recognition in international competitions. They utilize a rigorous in-house lab testing process to evaluate every batch of olive oil to ensure its meets their own and OOCC standards.

Cobram Estate produces four olive oil series, Everyday Essentials, California Select, First Harvest, and the Artisan Collection flavored olive oil. The California Select, and especially the First Harvest, are harvested and processed for providing healthy doses of polyphenols and antioxidants. I received three samples from the Everyday Essentials collection, which the name implies, is designed for daily use. The Mild must contain olives harvested later in the cycle and shows low bitterness, vanilla, and a delayed pepper finish. The Classic shows distinct tropical fruit, low bitterness, and a little less pepper. The Robust provides earthier notes, delayed pepper, and more body than the other two.

Despite their scale, the Cobram Estate maintains a clear focus on stewardship, research, and sustainable farming, positioning them as a leader in California’s rising olive‑oil landscape.

Grape Spotlight: Montenegrin Krstač with 13. Jul – Plantaže

2026-03-23T07:00:00.004-04:00

Montenegro’s wine-growing region near Lake Skadar, just 30 kilometers from the Adriatic Sea, is defined by its dramatic geography. The area is bordered by the high mountains of the Dinaric Alps, the Cijevna River, and the Skadar Lake basin, creating a Mediterranean-continental climate with hot summers and mild winters. Soils are diverse, with karst limestone, alluvial deposits, and red clay, supporting a range of indigenous and international grape varieties.

At the heart of this region lies Ćemovsko Polje, one of the largest vineyards in Europe, spanning 2,300 hectares, hosting over 11.5 million vines, and located only 18 miles from the Adriatic Sea. This single complex vineyard is the flagship of 13. Jul – Plantaže, Montenegro’s leading wine producer. The vineyards are boarded on one side by the Cijevna -- a subterranean river which broke through the rocks and created a picturesque canyon leaving layers of different types of stone where the vines were eventually planted.

The vineyard is situated on a plateau with an altitude between only 150 and 230 feet and it is surrounded by limestone hills, which defines it as a karst valley with extremely hot and dry summer and slightly cooler winter than in the coastal zone. The area receives an extremely limited amount of precipitation and plenty of sunny hours. But this scorching sun, which shines up to twelve hours a day during the summer is a major challenge along with the skeletal soil composed of chalky limestone, sand and gravel-strewn with many polished pebbles.

Krstač is a rare, indigenous white grape variety native to Montenegro. It thrives in the warm, dry conditions of Ćemovsko Polje and is known for its delicate floral aromas, crisp acidity, and subtle minerality. Wines made from Krstač are typically dry, light-bodied, and refreshing, often showing notes of white peach, pear, and citrus zest. It has a tight, medium sized cluster that is shaped like a cross -- leading to the name Krstač or Crusader in English.

13. Jul – Plantaže was founded in the 1960s emerging from a consolidation of farms in Podgorica, Danilovgrad, and Virpazar. Today, it is Montenegro’s largest wine producer and a regional powerhouse, exporting to over 40 countries. According to their website, they are the only winery in the world that produces wine from Krstač. The grapes harvested from their estate at Ćemovsko Polje are vinified and aged at three wine cellars Lješkopolje (the company’s oldest wine cellar), Ćemovsko Polje (where most of the wine production occurs), and Šipčanik (a former military bunker).

The grapes for their 2023 Crnogorski Krstač were harvested from Ćemovsko Polje vines with the juice fermented and aged on its lees in stainless steel tanks. This is a surprisingly complex wine, a floral aroma, plenty of green apple and stone fruit, minerality, and a racy elevated finish. Love the acidity.

Wine Country France: A Journey Through Three Iconic French Wine Regions

2026-03-19T08:00:00.003-04:00

Last week I attended a Masterclass at the French Embassy titled Wine Country France: A Journey Through Three Iconic French Wine Regions conducted by wine educator Annette Schiller. Through nine wines, she navigated us through Bourgogne (Burgundy), Bordeaux, and the Rhone explaining wine production through history, major appellations, terroir, and current producers.

Burgundy (Bourgogne): A grounded look at three villages (Saint‑Véran, Santenay, and Vosne‑Romanée) and the terroir that shapes them

Burgundy has a way of reminding wine drinkers that simplicity on paper can produce extraordinary nuance in the glass. Two grapes -- Chardonnay and Pinot Noir -- form the backbone of the region, yet the wines vary dramatically from village to village. The reason is terroir in its most literal sense: geology, slope, exposure, vine age, and the accumulated decisions of growers who know their parcels intimately. Limestone is the common thread and shapes Burgundy’s identity. It influences drainage, root depth, and ultimately the mineral tension in both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Old vines matter. From century‑old Pinot Noir in Santenay to venerable parcels in Vosne‑Romanée, vine age contributes concentration and complexity without excess weight. Farming choices are increasingly transparent. Organic and sustainable practices were consistent across the producers presented. Burgundy’s future is being shaped by growers who see soil health as inseparable from wine quality.

Saint‑Véran: Chardonnay with Clarity and Precision
Located in the southern Mâconnais, Saint‑Véran is often described as Burgundy’s gateway to purity‑driven Chardonnay. The wines are shaped by clay‑limestone soils, cooler elevations, and a long tradition of family‑run domaines. The 2024 Saint‑Véran from Domaine de Fussiacus (Domaines Paquet), highlighted the region’s strengths:

100% Chardonnay
Clay‑limestone soils that emphasize minerality and freshness
Organic farming and sustainable winemaking
A domaine with roots dating back to 1955

Saint‑Véran Chardonnay tends to show clean orchard fruit, subtle florals, and a mineral line that reflects the limestone bedrock. It’s Burgundy without ornamentation -- direct, transparent, and quietly confident.

Santenay: Pinot Noir with Structure and Earth
At the southern end of the Côte de Beaune, Santenay is often overshadowed by its more famous neighbors, yet it delivers some of the region’s most honest expressions of Pinot Noir. The wines are typically firmer, earthier, and more structured than those from villages farther north. The 2023 Santenay Rouge from Domaine Marc Colin et Fils offered a textbook profile:

100% Pinot Noir
Old vines, including parcels approaching 100 years
Iron‑rich limestone soils
East‑south exposure
Organic farming
Aged in oak with 30% new barrels

These conditions produce Pinot Noir with red‑berry fruit, savory undertones, and a mineral edge. The iron‑rich soils often contribute a subtle ferrous note, while the exposure ensures ripeness without heaviness. Santenay remains a village where value and authenticity intersect.

Vosne‑Romanée: The Pinnacle of Pinot Noir Elegance
If Santenay is grounded and sturdy, Vosne‑Romanée is its counterpoint—perfumed, layered, and texturally refined. Located in the Côte de Nuits, Vosne‑Romanée sits among some of the most celebrated vineyards in the world. The 2021 Vosne‑Romanée "Dame Juliette" is from Bernard Rion, a domaine with roots stretching back to 1896. Key details included:

Pinot Noir from three distinct climats
Clay‑limestone soils
40+ year old vines
Selective manual harvest and de‑stemming
Spontaneous fermentation in concrete
15 months of ageing in Burgundy barrels (40% new)

Vosne‑Romanée wines are known for their aromatic lift—violet, spice, red and black cherry—and a silky texture that seems to defy the grape’s fragility. The combination of old vines, meticulous farming, and careful élevage reinforces why this village remains a benchmark for Pinot Noir worldwide.

Bordeaux: A focused look at Graves, Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux, and Margaux -- and how blending defines the region.

Bordeaux is built on the idea that no single grape tells the whole story. Instead, the region relies on blending -- varieties, parcels, exposures, and even winemaking vessels -- to create wines that balance structure, freshness, and longevity. While the Left Bank and Right Bank often dominate the conversation, a closer look at Graves, Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux, and Margaux reveals how diverse Bordeaux can be, even within its classic framework. The region’s climate and soils vary dramatically, even within a single estate. Blending allows producers to balance ripeness, structure, and aromatic complexity. And soil drives style. Gravel (Graves, Margaux) allows for drainage, heat retention, and aromatic lift. Clay‑limestone (Blaye) provides power, depth, and freshness. These geological differences explain why Sauvignon Blanc thrives in Graves and why Malbec can excel in Blaye.

Graves: Where Gravel Defines the Style
Graves is one of the few Bordeaux regions equally known for its whites and reds. The soils -- deep, heat‑retaining gravel -- shape the wines’ profile, giving whites a distinctive mineral edge and ripe citrus character. The best examples combine Sauvignon Blanc’s lift with Sémillon’s texture, producing wines that age more gracefully than many expect. One such example is the 2023 Château Respides‑Médeville Blanc which also illustrates the region’s classic approach:

Blend: 50% Sémillon, 48% Sauvignon Blanc, 2% Muscadelle
Deep gravel soils
Manual harvest
Stainless‑steel fermentation
Six months of ageing in used oak

This combination yields a wine that’s bright yet textural, with Sémillon adding weight and Sauvignon Blanc providing aromatic clarity. The used oak adds subtle roundness without overshadowing the fruit.

Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux: Value, Old Vines, and Clay‑Limestone
Blaye sits on the Right Bank, across the Gironde from the Médoc. The region is known for its clay‑limestone soils and its ability to produce expressive, age‑worthy wines at approachable prices. Red Bordeaux blends are built primarily from Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc, with smaller roles for Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Carmenère. Each grape contributes something different—Merlot’s plushness, Cabernet Sauvignon’s structure, Cabernet Franc’s lift, Malbec’s depth. Yet the first red Bordeaux, 2018 Château Montdésir‑Gazin "Bardon", is dominated by Malbec with some Merlot. Other highlights are:

Old‑vine Malbec from a special parcel (“Bardon”)
Clay‑limestone soils
Organic viticulture
Stainless‑steel fermentation
22 months in barrique, 50% new

Malbec is rarely the star in Bordeaux today, but here it shines -- dark fruit, spice, and a firm tannic backbone shaped by the limestone. The long élevage in barrique adds depth without overwhelming the fruit.

Margaux: Elegance, Precision, and Layered Complexity
Margaux, one of the Médoc’s most celebrated appellations, is known for producing some of Bordeaux’s most perfumed and refined wines. Gravel terraces of varying heights create subtle differences in drainage and heat retention, contributing to the appellation’s signature finesse. The seminar featured the 2021 Château Brane‑Cantenac, a 2ème Grand Cru Classé with a long Lurton family history:

Blend: 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 1% Carmenère, 1% Petit Verdot
Manual and optical sorting
Vinification in large wooden vats
18 months in 100% new barriques

This blend leans heavily on Cabernet Sauvignon, giving the wine structure, cassis‑driven aromatics, and long aging potential. The meticulous sorting and use of new oak reflect a precision‑driven approach that defines modern Margaux.

A Practical Guide to Rhône Wines: Northern Whites and Southern Red Blends

The Rhône Valley is one of France’s most geographically dramatic and stylistically diverse wine regions. Stretching from Lyon to Avignon, it is effectively two regions in one: the Northern Rhône, where steep granite slopes and a continental climate produce focused, aromatic wines, and the Southern Rhône, where Mediterranean warmth and a broader palette of grape varieties create generous, blended reds. Specific differences start with the soil where granite and schist in the North create tension and aromatics whereas limestone and clay in the South create warmth, spice, and breadth. Blending is a tool, not a formula as the North relies on varietal purity and the South uses blends to manage ripeness and structure. However, there are similarities. Old vines matter as vines can approach or exceed a century in age, contributing depth without heaviness. In addition, concrete is making a quiet comeback. Producers across the Rhône are using concrete for fermentation and ageing to preserve freshness and avoid oak dominance. The seminar showcased these differences and similarities with wines from IGP Collines Rhodaniennes, Cairanne, and Châteauneuf‑du‑Pape. Together, they illustrate how geology, climate, and grape selection shape Rhône identity.

Northern Rhône: White Wines with Lift and Precision
While the North is best known for Syrah, its whites -- especially Viognier -- offer some of the region’s most distinctive aromatics. Granite soils and cooler temperatures help preserve acidity, giving these wines tension despite their richness. IGP Collines Rhodaniennes covers the foothills surrounding the prestigious AOP zones. It allows producers to work outside strict appellation rules while still expressing regional character. The 2022 Les Vignes d’à Côté (Yves Cuilleron) captured the strengths of the category:

Produced by a historic family domaine (founded 1920)
Led today by Yves Cuilleron, a major figure in the region
Organic viticulture
Sourced from a wide range of Northern Rhône sites
Focused on Viognier

These wines tend to be aromatic -- stone fruit, florals, gentle spice -- yet fresher and approachable. They’re a practical entry point for understanding Northern Rhône whites without the price tag of the top AOPs.

Cairanne: Old Vines and Clay‑Limestone Depth
Cairanne, now a standalone AOP, sits just north of Gigondas and Vacqueyras. It’s known for producing structured yet approachable red blends, often from very old vines. The 2023 Cairanne Vieilles Vignes (Domaine A. Berthet‑Rayne) highlighted the appellation’s strengths:

Family estate founded in 1880, now in its 5th generation
Certified organic, transitioning to biodynamic
Vines 55–100 years old
Clay‑calcareous soils
Blend: 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 20% Carignan
Manual harvest, de‑stemming
20‑day maceration
Fermentation and ageing in concrete

This is classic Southern Rhône winemaking: Grenache provides warmth and red fruit, Syrah adds structure, and Carignan contributes acidity and savory depth. Concrete preserves freshness and purity.

Châteauneuf‑du‑Pape: The Benchmark of Southern Rhône Blends
Châteauneuf‑du‑Pape is the region’s most famous appellation, known for its galets roulés (large rounded stones), old vines, and powerful blends. The 2022 Châteauneuf‑du‑Pape Vieilles Vignes (Domaine Le Prieuré des Papes), with details that underscore the appellation’s complexity:

Estate with old vine plots dating back to 1891
Certified organic
40 acres in the northern district of the appellation
Blend: 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre
20% whole‑cluster fermentation
Ageing: 75% concrete, 10% neutral barriques, 10% demi‑muids, 5% clay amphora (No new oak)

This is a modern, terroir‑driven approach: whole cluster adds aromatic lift, concrete preserves fruit, and amphora introduces subtle texture. The result is a wine that balances power with finesse.

The Essence of the Olive: Laconiko and Greece’s Enduring Landscape

2026-03-16T06:00:00.001-04:00

Greek extra virgin olive oil is rooted in one of the world’s oldest olive‑growing cultures, stretching back to the Minoans, who cultivated olives on Crete more than 3,000 years ago. Over centuries, olive groves spread across the Peloponnese, the Aegean islands, and the rugged mainland, becoming a defining feature of both the landscape and the diet. Historical records from classical Athens to Byzantine monasteries show how central olive oil was to trade, ritual, and daily life. Today, Greece remains one of the largest producers of extra virgin olive oil, with many regions emphasizing small‑scale cultivation, hand harvesting, and traditional milling practices that preserve freshness and clarity of flavor. Greece’s olive varieties reflect its diverse geography.

Koroneiki: The country’s most widespread cultivar, thriving in dry, windswept areas and producing a robust oil marked by green fruit, herbs, and a firm peppery finish.
Tsounati: Common in western Crete, yielding a softer, rounder oil with notes of ripe olive and mild bitterness.
Manaki: A gentler Peloponnese variety, smooth and lightly floral, often harvested early for a delicate but persistent profile.
Lianolia: Favored in the Ionian islands, producing fragrant, grassy oils with moderate pungency.

These varieties, shaped by limestone soils, maritime breezes, and steep terraces, give Greek EVOO its recognizable balance of fruit, bitterness, and spice.

Producers often point to the combination of climate, terrain, and long‑standing know‑how. Many groves are dry‑farmed, which concentrates flavor and supports high polyphenol levels. The Mediterranean’s sharp seasonal contrasts—hot summers, cool winters—encourage slow ripening and dense aromatic compounds. Modern mills have helped standardize quality, but much of the work remains rooted in family‑run operations that prioritize early harvests and rapid extraction. The result is an oil that tends to be assertive yet clean, with a profile that pairs easily with vegetables, legumes, and grilled seafood.

Laconiko represents the modern face of Greek olive oil while staying grounded in long‑standing family traditions. Based near the coastal town of Gytheio in the Peloponnese, the family organically cultivates 5,000 Koroneiki varietal olive trees in groves that benefit from abundant sunlight, sandy soils, and steady sea breezes. The sandy soil filtrates impurities that may be present and assuring olives that are of extremely highest quality. Their approach centers on early harvesting, meticulous fruit selection, and rapid cold extraction—choices that consistently yield oils with high polyphenol levels and a vivid sensory profile. The oil remains refrigerated and is transported to the company's warehouse in Manassas, Virginia where it is climate controlled and bottled on demand. This attention to refrigeration maintains the shelf life and phenolic content of the oliva oil.

Laconiko operates a showroom at the Manassas location providing samples of their traditional extra virgin olive oil, flavored olive oil, flavored vinegars, and more. Educated in the United States, brothers Dino and Diamantis Pierrakos maintain their family's generational orchard in Greece as well as the retail and bottling operation in Virginia.

On a recent visit, Diamantis provided a masterclass on their extra virgin olive oil and well as the health benefits of olive oil based on research from the World Olive Center for Health (WOCH). The health benefits are described in our previous article, The Essence of the Olive: The Health Benefits of Extra Virgin Olive Oil, and Laconiko attempts to maximize these phenolic compounds by harvesting during various stages of ripening. The earlier the ripening, the higher the polyphenols, but also the higher the bitterness. Harvesting the grapes later results in a smoother flavor but lower phenolic compounds. This situational harvesting produces a truly artisan olive oil as yields are suppressed from the industry averaged of 25% volume to 5-10%.

Laconiko offers three main extra virgin olive oil expressions and highlight the amount of Oleocanthal (anti‑inflammatory), Oleacein (antioxidant), and Hydroxytyrosol (antioxidant) in every bottle. The flagship Laconiko Estate EVOO is known for its bright green fruit, fresh herbs, and a clean peppery finish that reflects both the Koroneiki variety and the precision of their milling. Since it includes olives later in the harvest cycle it contains the lowest amount of polyphenols but is targeting towards consumers who use olive oil in meals on a daily basis. The olives for their Laconiko Olio Nuovo are harvested two weeks prior to those in the Estate EVOO and thus contains a higher phenolic value with a noticeable increase in bitterness and herbaceous flavors. Diamantis demonstrated a technique that makes this olive oil more palatable by adding it to citrus - which completely dampens the bitter finish. In addition, adding olive oil to a liquid enhances the body's ability to absorb the phenolic compounds.

Their final base product is the Laconiko ZOI High Phenolic Olive Oil made from the Kalamon olive variety. This olive oil is based on ancient traditions to harvest and process olives for their medicinal value. According to Laconiko, "for ZOI, Dino was in the grove in early October to see that the olives were gently picked, and, within hours, quickly rushed to the mill, which opened early in the season – just for us. The olives were then milled at a specific temperature for a short time in order to offer our cherished customers the best High Phenolic EVOO that we can provide. By nature of the careful process, high phenolic EVOOs offer a lower yield, which is the cause of its premium price – but the intensity of oleocanthal and its cousin, antioxidant, oleacein in ZOI – a little goes a long way – 1 to 2 tsp (5 – 10 ml) or 5 – 10 mg of oleocanthal + 1 – 5 mg of oleacein per serving." Diamantis also stressed that in order to obtain the health benefits, the EVOO must be consumed daily. Thus, small teaspoon doses of ZOI are sufficient for a daily health regimen.

I highly recommend a visit to their showroom or finding retail locations. Even though based in the United States, their core identity remains tied to the Peloponnese and that region’s natural strengths: small groves, careful stewardship, and a focus on purity. Their work has earned international recognition, yet the operation retains the feel of a hands‑on, generational craft product.

Vineyard Mechanization Through Stone Tower Winery to the EWE

2026-03-12T13:00:00.001-04:00

Alex Gamez, (Vineyard Manager, Stone Tower Winery) will focus on the persistent issue of soil erosion on steep terrain, detailing the practical steps taken to stabilize these slopes, including the use of a 1,200-lb. tandem disk harrow and aerial drone spraying. He will also touch on the adoption of laser bird deterrents and half-track tractors as part of a broader shift toward terrain-adapted vineyard management. - Session V06 | Vineyard Mechanization Update | Eastern Winery Exposition

Traditional tilling refers to the long-standing agricultural practice of mechanically agitating soil to prepare a seedbed, control weeds, and incorporate crop residues or fertilizers. It typically involves primary tillage—such as ploughing with a mouldboard or chisel plow—to invert and loosen the soil to depths of 10–25 cm—followed by secondary tillage (e.g., disking, harrowing) to create a fine, smooth seedbed. This method is commonly known as conventional tillage, where less than 15% of crop residue remains on the soil surface after planting. It is widely used in smallholder and commercial farming, especially where animal-drawn plows or tractors are available. The goal is to produce a weed-free, aerated, and well-structured seedbed that promotes rapid germination and root development.

However, traditional tilling has significant drawbacks: it increases soil erosion, degrades soil structure, and accelerates organic matter loss. Tillage erosion is a major form of soil degradation caused by conventional tilling practices, where mechanical implements move soil downslope. This erosion is even more pronounced on steep terrain and is a difficulty that Alex Gamez and Stone Tower Winery faced on one particularly plot where trenches that formed became more dangerous for traditional machinery and personnel.

Stone Tower Winery farms 93 acres of vines, making it the largest estate vineyard in Virginia's Loudoun County. Managing this large estate is even more complex as the dozens of different grape varieties are planted across multiple terrains. One of these being this steep seven acre plot will be the focus of his presentation in the V06 | Vineyard Mechanization Update session at the upcoming Eastern Winery Exposition.

Alex will present the practical steps that Stone Tower used to stabilize this slope which including changing the machinery and relying on 3rd party aerial drone technology for fungicide and pesticide applications. The powerful and stable half-track tractor navigates both slope trajectories providing safe usage for the team. It enables them to amend the soil more often than once a year and, along with the drone, helps minimize foot traffic on the steep slope. Other challenges that he may mention are their plans to limit harm from the spotted lantern fly as well as the possibility of Pierce's Disease in the vineyard.

Visitors to the winery will be impressed with the estate's rolling hills and the mountainous backdrop. Also impressive are two wines that winemaker James Phillips vinified from field blends. The first is the Sycolin Creek - a Rhone styled blend of 48% Viognier, 29% Roussanne, 21% Marsanne, 2% Grenache Blanc. Although the Viognier and Roussanne ripen very similarly, the Marsanne is later so the grapes are harvested when the Marsanne is a little under-ripe. The result is a very delicious and interesting wine where five months in French oak provide just enough texture without losing flavor and acidity. Similarly the Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc grapes for their Rosé (40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Cabernet Franc, 36% Merlot) are a field blend harvested specifically for a direct press rosé styled wine. The Merlot was barrel fermented and provides fruitiness and texture to this refreshing wine.

The Essence of the Olive: The Health Benefits of Extra Virgin Olive Oil

2026-03-09T07:00:00.003-04:00

The mission of the World Olive Center for Health (WOCΗ) is to certify olive oil with a health claim, train producers, and support targeted research on the health protecting and therapeutic properties of all olive products, with the ultimate target to increase the nutritional and economic value of olive oil. -- WOCΗ

What Modern Research—and the World Olive Center for Health—Shows Us

Extra virgin olive oil has been part of human diets for thousands of years, but only in the last few decades have scientists begun to understand why it supports long‑term health so effectively. The World Olive Center for Health (WOCH), based in Athens, has played a central role in gathering, verifying, and communicating research on the biological activity of high‑phenolic extra virgin olive oil. Their work brings clarity to a topic that is often clouded by marketing language and inconsistent product quality. A sample PDF analysis is available for the Laconiko Olio Nuovo 2026.

The World Olive Center for Health is actively training producers to maximize the natural health benefits of their olive oil by focusing on practices that raise and preserve phenolic content. Their programs emphasize early‑harvest timing, careful fruit handling, and precise milling conditions that protect delicate bioactive compounds such as >oleocanthal and oleacein. WOCH also teaches producers how to monitor phenolic levels through accredited laboratory testing, helping them understand how cultivar choice, irrigation, extraction temperature, and storage conditions influence the final chemical profile. By combining scientific guidance with practical, field‑level training, the Center equips growers and millers to consistently produce high‑phenolic oils that meet both quality standards and documented health criteria. Here is a PDF Guide for the production of high phenolic olive oil with health protective properties.

This article walks through the major health benefits identified in WOCH‑supported studies, explains the compounds responsible for these effects, and offers a grounded view of how EVOO fits into a modern, balanced diet.

A Unique Profile of Bioactive Compounds

All extra virgin olive oils contain monounsaturated fats, but what sets high‑quality oils apart is their phenolic content—a group of natural compounds that act as antioxidants and anti‑inflammatory agents. WOCH focuses particularly on oils rich in:

Oleocanthal – known for its ibuprofen‑like anti‑inflammatory activity
Oleacein – a strong antioxidant linked to vascular protection
Hydroxytyrosol – one of the most potent natural antioxidants identified
Oleuropein aglycone – associated with cellular protection and metabolic support

These compounds vary widely among producers, cultivars, and harvest methods. WOCH’s testing and certification programs help identify oils with consistently high phenolic levels, which is important because many of the documented health benefits depend on these compounds being present in meaningful concentrations.

Anti‑Inflammatory Effects: A Foundation for Better Health

Chronic, low‑grade inflammation is a contributing factor in many modern diseases, including cardiovascular disease, metabolic disorders, and neurodegenerative conditions. Oleocanthal—the compound responsible for the peppery sensation in the throat—has been shown to reduce inflammatory markers in the body.

WOCH highlights research demonstrating that regular consumption of high‑phenolic EVOO can:

Reduce inflammatory signaling
Support the body’s natural repair processes
Improve resilience against long‑term inflammatory stress

These effects are not dramatic or immediate; instead, they accumulate quietly over time, supporting overall health in a steady, measurable way.

Cardiovascular Protection: The Most Established Benefit

The strongest body of evidence relates to heart and vascular health. WOCH emphasizes several mechanisms through which EVOO supports cardiovascular function:

Reduced Oxidation of LDL Cholesterol: Oxidized LDL is more harmful than LDL itself. EVOO’s polyphenols help prevent this oxidation, lowering one of the key risk factors for atherosclerosis.
Improved Endothelial Function: The endothelium—the thin lining of blood vessels—responds positively to the antioxidant and anti‑inflammatory properties of EVOO. Better endothelial function supports healthier blood flow and blood pressure.
Favorable Lipid Profiles: Replacing saturated fats with EVOO can improve HDL levels and reduce overall cardiovascular risk.

These findings align with decades of Mediterranean diet research, but WOCH’s work underscores that phenolic concentration matters. Oils with higher phenolic content show stronger protective effects.

Antioxidant Activity and Cellular Protection

Oxidative stress is a natural part of metabolism, but excessive oxidative stress contributes to aging and chronic disease. EVOO’s phenolic compounds help neutralize free radicals and protect cells from damage. WOCH‑highlighted research points to several benefits:

Reduced DNA oxidation
Slower cellular aging processes
Enhanced resilience against environmental stressors

Hydroxytyrosol, in particular, has been studied for its ability to protect cells even at low concentrations.

Cognitive Health and Neuroprotection

Emerging research suggests that high‑phenolic EVOO may support brain health. WOCH has shared studies showing improvements in markers related to memory, learning, and oxidative stress in the brain. While EVOO is not a treatment for neurological disease, its regular use appears to:

Support healthier brain aging
Reduce oxidative stress in neural tissue
Improve certain cognitive markers in clinical studies

This area of research is still developing, but the early findings are promising and consistent with the broader anti‑inflammatory and antioxidant profile of EVOO.

Metabolic Support and Blood Sugar Regulation

Several studies referenced by WOCH indicate that EVOO can support healthier metabolic function. Benefits include:

Improved insulin sensitivity
Better post‑meal blood sugar response
Support for weight management when used in place of saturated fats

These effects stem from the combination of monounsaturated fats and phenolic compounds working together to support metabolic balance.

Why Daily Use Matters

One of WOCH’s central messages is that the benefits of EVOO come from consistent, daily consumption. Most studies showing measurable health effects involve one to two tablespoons per day as part of a balanced diet. WOCH also emphasizes:

Choosing oils tested for phenolic content
Using EVOO as the primary household fat
Favoring early‑harvest, cold‑extracted oils for higher phenolic levels

The goal is not to treat disease but to support long‑term health through a nutrient‑dense, antioxidant‑rich food. Extra virgin olive oil is not a miracle cure, but it is one of the most thoroughly studied and consistently beneficial foods available. The World Olive Center for Health has helped bring scientific clarity to its effects, especially the role of phenolic compounds in supporting cardiovascular, metabolic, and cognitive health.

Next article: Greece’s Enduring Landscape through the ultra premium olive oils from Laconiko.

Regenerative Viticulture at The Vineyards at Dodon

2026-03-05T07:00:00.005-05:00

"With nature as our guide and learning from those who went before us, we seek to reduce our chemical and physical footprint while returning life and biology to the landscape. It starts by enhancing the biodiversity within and around the vineyard. Spontaneously growing, native and naturalized cover crops, compost, and livestock regenerate soil, add microbial diversity, and restore underground ecosystems." -- The Vineyards at Dodon

During the upcoming 2026 Eastern Winery Exposition, Tom Croghan, executive winemaker and co-owner of The Vineyards at Dodon, will provide two seminars on Regenerative Viticulture. In general, regenerative farming is a conservation‑driven approach to agriculture that focuses on rebuilding soil, restoring biodiversity, and strengthening the natural systems that make food production resilient. It emphasizes practices such as improving topsoil structure, enhancing the water cycle, and increasing on‑farm ecological diversity, all with the goal of creating healthier, more self‑sustaining landscapes. It prioritizes profitability through reduced input costs—such as fertilizer and pesticides—while improving long-term resilience and productivity.

The Dodon Farm

The Dodon farm has a long history from Colonial times to the present which is much too long and complex for this feature but is hinted at through the winery's wine labels. The farm "consists of 555 acres in its current configuration, comprising roughly 400 acres of woodland, 65 acres of pasture, 65 acres of cropland, 17 acres of planted vineyards, and 15 acres of 'farmstead' – houses, barns, sheds, roads, and other non-tillable areas. Since 2010, the vineyard and winery have occupied a section of about 43 acres in the northeastern corner of the property. This estate has more than 31,000 vines densely planted over 17 acres in three adjacent vineyards."

According to the winery's website, "It is a difficult site for agriculture, but it is perfect for a vineyard when coupled with scrupulously tended vines, a nurturing climate, and passionate people. The soils are infinitely complex, a mosaic of nearly a billion years of orogeny and erosion to the west, the rise and fall of oceans during the Miocene, and hundreds of years of human cultivation. Recognizing their distinctive characteristics, they have been designated 'Dodon-series' by the United States Department of Agriculture. They are naturally drained by slope and sandy texture, yet they also include a modest distribution of clay that provides a regular supply of water. At more than 3,000 feet to bedrock, their depth and decomposing shells provide texture and fragrance to the wine....

The climate at Dodon complements the soils and the varieties. The rainfall accelerates weathering of the soils, releasing minerals and creating the environment in which the vines grow. Moderate temperatures during the last weeks of September slow ripening, allowing full expression of aroma and balanced tannins that preserve flavor and extend aging in the bottle. "

Regeneration as a Working Framework

Dodon’s team treats the vineyard as a living system rather than a production surface. Their environmental policy emphasizes soil structure, microbial life, and long-term ecological resilience. This includes minimizing external inputs, eliminating pollution, and strengthening the social and ecological environment around the farm. Each full‑time team member takes responsibility for a specific environmental focus area, reinforcing that regeneration is not a side project but the organizing principle of the farm’s daily work.

Several practices stand out:

Soil‑first viticulture — Farming decisions prioritize soil organic matter, water retention, and microbial diversity. This aligns with the estate’s goal of restoring functioning ecosystems and sequestering carbon.
Biodiversity enhancement — Habitat restoration and diversified plantings support beneficial insects, birds, and soil organisms, reducing reliance on chemical interventions.
Low‑impact management — The vineyard seeks to reduce its chemical and physical footprint, using ecological processes to manage vine vigor, pests, and disease pressure.

These practices are not framed as innovations but as a return to ecological common sense—an approach that sees the vineyard as part of a broader landscape.

Again, according to their website, "acres of pollinator meadows and hedgerows that include traditional indigenous food sources like hazelnuts, dwarf chestnuts, and Chickasaw plums provide beneficial insects with the food, shelter, and breeding areas they need to thrive. These 'natural areas' cover more than half of the 43 acres we manage. ..The biodiversity also creates the conditions to store water for drought and allow it to infiltrate during intense downpours. The combination of grasses and woody plants stabilizes the soil, preventing erosion and nutrient pollution. Disease-suppressive soils protect the vines from microbial pests. Improved nutrition creates healthier plants and more expressive wines. As a result, we’ve reduced insecticide use by 70% and fungicide use by a third."

The Dodon Center for Ecological Farming

Croghan’s background as a physician‑scientist informs his methodical, evidence‑driven approach to farming. He leads the estate’s environmental efforts and has become a central voice in Maryland’s ecological viticulture community. His work emphasizes the idea that vineyards can function as carbon sinks, biodiversity corridors, and educational spaces while still producing high‑quality wine.

Along with co‑owner Polly Pittman, Croghan also helped establish the Dodon Center for Ecological Farming, a nonprofit dedicated to training, collaboration, and research in regenerative agriculture. Workshops hosted at the vineyard bring together practitioners and educators to explore holistic decision‑making, soil health, and ecological vineyard design.

The Vineyard as an Ecological Classroom

Visitors to Dodon encounter a working farm where regenerative practices are visible rather than abstract. We participated in a guided tour and tasting last weekend which included discussions of cover crops, soil structure, and the long-term ecological goals of the estate. General Manager Regina McCarthy started by describing the farms history, soil enhancements and composition, and Croghan’s quest to turn the farm into a comprehensive ecosystem.

The tour also stressed Dodon's use of farm animals for fertilization and as an alternative to mowing. The fertilizations starts with an estate compost which is augmented by soil decomposing under fallen woodland trees. This increases the range of the domestic microbes within the soil. The sheep and pigs are also fed crab meal which contains nitrogen, phosphorus, calcium, and chitin -- a natural compound that stimulates beneficial soil microbes, suppresses nematodes and fungal pathogens, and improves soil structure, drainage, and water retention.

Another eye-opening aspect of the tour was learning how the farm attempts to naturally handle pests and diseases. They created a meadow near the vines to attract beneficial insects. Ladybugs and lacewings are among the most effective beneficial insects in vineyards, feeding on aphids, mealybugs, and other soft-bodied pests. Predatory mites, such as phytoseiidae, target red and yellow spider mites that damage grape leaves and reduce photosynthesis, helping maintain vine health without chemical intervention. Parasitic wasps, like Anagrus species, lay eggs in pest insect eggs—such as those of grape leafhoppers—preventing them from hatching and reducing pest populations naturally. And praying mantises, earwigs, and syrphid flies (hoverflies) also play key roles as generalist predators, consuming a wide range of pests and contributing to balanced vineyard ecosystems. Regina told a story how during the summer they watch praying mantises lunching on spotted lantern flies like burritos.

While walking in the vineyard, Regina alerted us to pruning cuttings that were left lying between the vine rows. In most instances, these are immediately removed from the vineyard and burned because many contain fungal spores from pathogens that infect grapevines through pruning wounds. These fungi overwinter in infected wood and can be dispersed by wind, rain, or pruning tools, leading to new infections. Burning infected material destroys these spores and prevents their spread. However, Dodon has decided that instead of creating a sterile vineyard environment they mulch the dormant pruning wood, dilute and spread across the vineyard in order for the vines to build nature resistance to the spores.

Finally, Tom met our group within the winery and the conversation eventually turned to Pierce's Disease. This is a lethal plant disease caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa, which infects grapevines and other crops by colonizing their xylem— the water-conducting tissues. This blockage disrupts water and nutrient transport, leading to symptoms such as leaf scorching (browning along margins), premature leaf drop (leaving petioles attached, known as "matchsticks"), stunted growth, shriveled fruit, and eventually vine death within 1–5 years. The disease is primarily transmitted by xylem-feeding insects, especially sharpshooter leafhoppers and spittlebugs. Traditionally this disease affected mostly southern vineyards, as the bacteria died over winter from colder temperatures. But as winter temperatures have increased Pierce's Disease pressures have increased as well. The standard practice is to rip out affected and surrounding vines and to spray to eliminate the sharpshooters. Instead, Dodon is removing sharpshooter favored habitat (i.e Sycamore & Sweetgum trees and various wetland plants) and replacing with locust & willow trees as well as aromatic herbs that repel sharpshooters and attract beneficial insects that feed on the sharpshooter eggs.

A Quiet Model for Maryland and East Coast Agriculture

The Vineyards at Dodon offers a measured, practical example of how regenerative farming can be integrated into a commercial vineyard. The work is incremental and grounded in observation, but its direction is clear: healthier soils, more resilient ecosystems, and a farming model that respects the complexity of nature. To learn more attend Tom's presentations at the Eastern Winery Exposition.

View similar articles on Regenerative Farming.

"And despite increasingly difficult conditions, when these methods are combined with meticulous canopy management, yields and fruit quality have consistently improved. It is a resilient, healthy ecosystem living in harmony and reciprocity with its human inhabitants." -- The Vineyards at Dodon

The Essence of the Olive: Croatia's Adriatic Influence

2026-03-02T06:00:00.000-05:00

Croatian olive oil has deep roots along the Adriatic coast, where olives have been cultivated since ancient Greek and Roman times. The country’s long, narrow coastline and its many islands create a patchwork of microclimates that suit olive trees particularly well. Dalmatia and Istria became early centers of production, and historical records show that olive oil was an important trade good in coastal towns from the Middle Ages onward. In the past few decades, Croatia has seen a renewed focus on quality, with small and mid‑sized producers investing in modern mills and careful harvesting practices. This shift has helped Croatian oils gain recognition for their clarity of flavor and strong sense of place.

Croatia’s olive varieties reflect its regional diversity. Oblica, the most widespread Dalmatian variety, produces a balanced oil with gentle bitterness and notes of fresh herbs. In Istria, Buža and Istarska Bjelica are common; Buža tends to yield a softer, fruit‑forward oil, while Bjelica is known for its peppery finish and higher polyphenol content. Other local varieties such as Lastovka, Levantinka, and Drobnica contribute to blends that highlight the character of specific islands or coastal areas. These cultivars, shaped by rocky soils and maritime winds, give Croatian olive oil its distinctive profile.

Why dip into Croatian EVOO? According to Selo®, a grower and producer on the Adriatic near Zadar.

"Croatian extra virgin olive oil is unique due to the combination of climate, soil, and expertise of the local producers. The olive trees are grown on the sunny hillsides of the Adriatic coast, which provides an ideal environment for the olives to ripen and develop their flavor. The Adriatic region’s higher-than-average rainfall contributes to the oil's distinctive profile, with Croatian oils characterized by a high mean oleic fatty acid content (a monounsaturated fat, MUFA) averaging 70.4%, and a high palmitic fatty acid content (a saturated fat) averaging 13.43%. Additionally, the oil contains a medium level of linoleic fatty acid (a polyunsaturated fat, PUFA), averaging 11.22%, which is lower than oils from drier regions like Spain, Greece, and Italy, where linoleic acid levels are often higher, sometimes exceeding 15%. These fatty acid profiles, influenced by Croatia's unique climate, contribute to the oil's balance of flavor and health benefits. Croatian producers also use traditional methods of harvesting and pressing the olives, which helps to preserve the quality and taste of the oil."

Another producer, Broč stands out for its focus on careful cultivation and small‑batch milling. Based in Dalmatia, more specifically, the northern side of the island of Brač, the Šantić family works primarily with Oblica and their groves include 1200 old olive trees planted by their grandfathers. They draw on the region’s long tradition of olive growing while applying modern sustainability and extraction techniques. Starting in 2011, they introduced sheep to enhance soil health, fertilization, and vegetation management. Their oils tend to emphasize freshness and well‑defined flavors.. Broč’s approach illustrates how Croatian olive oil continues to evolve: rooted in history, shaped by local varieties, and guided by a commitment to thoughtful, quality‑driven production.

Grape Spotlight: Peña Garnacha and the Calatayud DO

2026-02-27T07:00:00.001-05:00

Calatayud is a high‑altitude appellation in Aragón in northeastern Spain, set among rugged hills and river valleys shaped by the Jalón and Jiloca rivers. Vineyards here sit between 650 and 900 meters (2,100–3,000 feet), making it one of Spain’s highest red‑wine regions. The climate is continental—hot, dry summers; cold winters; and wide day‑night temperature swings that help preserve acidity. Much of the terrain is a patchwork of slate, schist, and iron‑rich clay, soils that stress the vines just enough to concentrate flavor. Although winegrowing in the area dates back to Roman times, Calatayud’s modern revival has centered on reclaiming old bush‑trained vineyards and spotlighting Garnacha as the region’s signature grape.

Garnacha thrives in this environment. The grape ripens late and handles heat and drought well, but in Calatayud the altitude adds freshness and structure. Many of the vines are 40–100 years old, low‑yielding plants with deep roots and naturally small clusters. Wines from these vineyards tend to be deeply colored, with red and black fruit, herbal notes, and a firm mineral line from the stony soils. The combination of elevation and old vines gives Garnacha from Calatayud a balance that’s harder to achieve in warmer, lower‑lying areas.

Peña -- crafted by Master of Wine Norrel Robertson -- is one of the labels that captures this style cleanly. The wine is sourced from older bush vines planted on rocky slopes, where the soils are thin and the yields modest. In the glass, Peña Garnacha (aka "Garnacha Club") is medium‑bodied with ripe red fruit—cherry, raspberry, and a touch of plum—supported by subtle spice and a faint earthiness. The acidity is bright, a hallmark of the region’s elevation, and the tannins are gentle but present. It’s a straightforward, honest expression of Calatayud: fruit‑driven, lifted, and shaped by the landscape rather than heavy winemaking.