Pecorino, pecorino.....and more pecorino

    Customarily, I finish a pasta or even a risotto with a generous grating of Pecorino Romano rather than Parmesan. I love the earthy dimension this cheese adds to these dishes. However, Romano, my simple grating cheese, is only one style of Pecorino, a family of cheeses though differing in style are all made with sheep’s milk. Central Bottle Wine + Provisions recently offered a class that gave an in-depth look at this cheese family – in actuality, a feast of Pecorino. The outstanding selection was assembled by Central Bottle’s cheesemonger Stephanie Santos. Cheesemonger extraordinaire Matt Rubiner was to be a co-presenter of the class but car trouble left him stranded on the side of the Pike. However, Stephanie’s commanding knowledge of the cheeses enabled her to hold forth eloquently even in his absence. Pecorinos are made up and down the boot of Italy. The evening’s selections came  from Sardinia, Tuscany, Campania and Sicily, ranging stylistically from young and fresh to aged to even smoked. The beer and wine selections – well received on their own and well paired with the cheeses –  were a collaboration with Maureen Rubino, Central Bottle manager, and Liz Vilardi, resident wine guru, and featured both familiar Italian grapes and more esoteric varietals. The evening began on a casual note with Stephanie’s version of “Beer and Pretzels”, “Field Mouse’s Farewell” with Pecorino Pepato – Pecorino studded with peppercorns – the malt and grain in the ale playing wonderfully with the salt and spice in the cheese. And then it was on to serious tasting. Some highlights  of the evening -

• While producers are important in the production of Pecorino, the “houses” or affineurs determine the quality of the cheeses – an old notion in Europe, only now gaining serious impetus in America. The two houses represented in the class – Guffanti and Casa Madaio – are the premier affineurs of Italian Pecorino.
• The most controversial cheese of the evening was the Fiore Sardo, a rustic smoked cheese that proved challenging to some. Yet the cheese’s extreme piquancy was mediated by the fruity, vibrant Argiolas Cannonau Rosato. ( Actually, I think the wine converted one of the guests to the pink side.)
• For those interested in pairing condiments with cheese, Stephanie accompanied the Ruffanti Marzalino with a wonderful New Zealand honey produced from the flowers of the rata tree. The honey is available at Follow the Honey in Harvard Square. Extremely delicious!
• My favorite pairing of the evening was the outlier. Right in the middle of the tasting was the incongruity of the class – a Pecorino from Bellweather Farm in Petaluma CA paired with the well oaked and ripe Chardonnay from Belle Pente in the Willamette Valley OR. Both were creamy and well balanced; together, it was the most elegant pairing of the class.
• While Stephanie’s choice of cheeses and her presentation made for a most informative and enjoyable class, an added bonus was the interaction of those attending. Class members spoke freely and animatedly about their likes and dislikes, what worked and what didn’t work – all resulting in a spirited conversation.

For those interested in deepening their knowledge of cheese, classes at Central Bottle provide the perfect opportunity – a relaxed friendly setting, well selected cheeses and spirits and a knowledgeable staff. The next class – a cheese and beer pairing – is happening on June 27th.

The class selection

 The cheeses and their accompaniments

Guffanti Pepato Siciliano  with  Pretty  Things “Fieldmouse’s Farewell”

Guffanti Marzalino  with Carfagna Ansonoco

Casa Madaio Cinerino with Valdiperti Fiano di Avellino

Bellweather Farms “San Andreas” with Belle Pente Chardonnay

Fiore Sardo with Argiolas Cannonau Rosato

Casa Madaio Calcagno with Sella e Mosca Cannonau

Guffanti Pecorino di Pienza Gran Riserva with Barbi Rosso di Montalcino

Central Bottle Wine + Provisions   194 Mass Ave   Cambridge MA

Rheinhessen is the largest wine region in Germany and nearly a third of the wines produced there are red wines. Though the 2009 harvest in Rheinhessen was somewhat smaller, it was a particularly good year for ripening Pinot Noir, according to the German Wine Institute. The ripeness shows in this Pinot from Weingut Schäfer, which has a relatively high alcohol level at 13.5%. (The alcohol on most German reds that I have seen usually falls between 11% and 12.5%.) Fortunately, the Weingut Schäfer has a solid fruit base, since the alcohol, which gives the wine a sweet warmth, nearly dominates the palate and threatens to throw this wine out of balance. Aromas of boysenberry, tobacco, lilac, and perfume, along with a slight banana fermentation aroma. The palate has dark red fruit, vanilla, spice, cherry-flavored cough syrup, and a strong mushroom-umami. Light to medium body, medium acidity, and light tannins. Spice and red berry flavors linger, along with some heat. Good.

At Nine Acre Wines for $14.99.

Frangipane Tart, Lemon Tart, Fruit Tart, Mascarpone Mousse Cup, Mini Chocolate Peanut Butter Cupcake

GLENN – Once upon a time, brews got no respect – they were the Rodney Dangerfield of the spirits world. And food pairings incorporating beers? Beer and ale were only fit to accompany dogs and brats. Yet this scenario has now become clichéd. As the American craft beer movement gains momentum – elevating even venerable Belgium and German brews – new paradigms emerge. Beer dinners have become commonplace – various foods and beers do complement each other. Hipsters pair cheese with beer instead of that old standby wine (English plowmen were right). Restaurants have beer sommeliers. And now, here was an event pairing beer and dessert. When we were invited by Mindy Valone of CM Communications to be media guests at the beer and dessert pairing at Finale Desserterie and Bakery, I was intrigued. A guided tasting and discussion would be presented by Executive Pastry Chef Nicole Coady and Bryan Greene of the Craft Brewers Guild. Though I knew that I could handle the pastry portion of the evening and I’m certainly an enthusiastic beer drinker – the opportunity arose for our colleague, Kristen Sykes, to accompany me. Now Kristen, aka @BeerLady2, has craft beer bona fides – beer aficionado, avid home brewer, certified beer judge and founder of BABES (Boston Area Beer Enthusiasts). Now we had expertise on both fronts.

 KRISTEN – When I was invited to join the Wine Dine With Us folks at a craft beer and pastry pairing, I jumped at the chance. I’ve led and participated in beer dinners and beer and chocolate pairings but never paired beer with pastry. There are over 100 styles of beer from light and wheaty, effervescent and hoppy, to dark and cloying. I was excited to see what styles Nicole and Bryan would pair with the pastry. I was also looking forward to sampling the local beers on offer, which included a brew from Maine and cider from New York. Truth be told, while the European beers selected were some of my favorites, it would have been great if the pairing included some of the more than a dozen local craft beers brewed in Boston or Massachusetts, many of which use local ingredients and are the freshest you can find anywhere!

GLENN – What makes a pairing succeed? It isn’t science or some culinary voodoo but rather taste – actual tasting – and actual trial and error. Factors such as acidity and sweetness play a part but a chef with an experienced palate, such as Chef Nicole Coady, will taste a wine or, in this case, a beer and decide what dessert may work with it. Further tasting of both beer and dessert together hones the final pairing. In planning this event, Byran Greene brought her a selection of beers to consider. As they sampled through them, Chef Coady would dash off to the pastry case and bring forth pastries that she felt were simpatico with the beer. Thus, a menu for the evening was created. For me, the desserts were all extremely well done and the beers all delicious. Two of the parings were outstanding. The first match-up of the evening, pairing cider with a frangipane tart, was excellent. The apple in the cider and the almond in the tart shone through. The cider, just a bit off dry, contrasted nicely with the slight bitterness of the almonds. My favorite pairing of the evening was between the German Aventinus – a Weissen Bock – and the mascarpone mousse cup. The beer highlighted the chocolate cup, the delicacy of the mousse contrasted with the heartiness of the brew but the pay off was the synergy between the beer and chocolate covered espresso bean. However, the pairing between the Ayinger Celebrator Doppelbock and the mini chocolate peanut butter cupcake was also a strong contender for “Best of the Event”. The cupcake, though, was my favorite pastry: the chocolate cake moist and delicate (culinary note – Chef uses cake flour and both buttermilk and sour cream); the peanut butter icing extraordinary. In fact, one of my fellow bloggers inquired if the icing itself was available for purchase. For me, the evening pushed the boundaries of food and beverage pairing

 KRISTEN – I agree with Glenn that the first pairing of the cider with the Fragipane Tart was well done. The cider, which uses Granny Smith apples, provided a tanginess that was complemented by the tartness of the raspberry that adorned the tart. The two types of champagne yeast used in the cider provided a dry finish that blended well with the bitterness of the almond in the tart. The second pairing of the lemon tart and the ever-popular Allagash White was a bit off. The velvetiness of the lemon tart was magnificent but bitterness of the beer could not match it.  The alcohol of the beer was also a bit low (5%) for the intensity of the tart. Sam Calagione (founder of Dogfish Head Brewery) recommends in his book He Said Beer; She Said Wine that “creamy, sugary desserts such as lemon tarts should be paired with beers that are slightly higher in alcohol.” For future pairings I would recommend a beer around 7% ABV.  I agree with Glenn that the pairing of the Aventinus with Marcapone Mousse Cup was well done. The rich, deep texture of this beer as well as its higher alcohol (8.2%) was well matched by the mousse. The pairing that stole the night for me was the Ayinger Celebrator Doppelbock and mini chocolate peanut butter cupcake. The nuttiness of the peanut butter was a perfect match for the high alcohol brew (6.7%) and the dark fruit flavors of the beer were complimented nicely by the roastyness of the chocolate cupcake. Both Nicole and Bryan did a great job describing elements of the pastries and the beers. However, what was lacking was information on why a given beer was chosen for a given pastry, such as what elements the beer was meant to bring out of the pastry. This would have been educational and would have enhanced the parings even more!    

 The evening’s line-up

Exploring the World of Craft Beers

Original Sin Hard CiderPaired with a Frangipane Tart

Allagash WhitePaired with a Lemon Tart

 Duvel Golden AlePaired with a Fresh Fruit Tart

 AventinusPaired with a Mascarpone Mousse Cup

 Ayinger Celebrator DoppelbockPaired with a Mini Chocolate Peanut Butter Cupcake

Tony Soter, who has worked his winemaking magic at Napa’s Etude Wines, Willamette Valley’s Soter Vineyards, and dozens of prestigious wineries over the years, has made a rosé to savor.  A couple of years ago, he launched the Soter Vineyards’ second label: North Valley. The North Valley rosé is simply one of the best rosés I have had in recent memory, perfect for anyone seeking a less delicate rosé. This fresh and bright pink wine has a somewhat surprising composition: 80% Pinot Noir, 16% Chardonnay, and 4% Gewürztraminer.  The two white grapes were terrific blending partners, giving this rosé a memorable and unique palate.  Some rosés of Pinot Noir can be rather light and the Chardonnay helps to make this wine slightly more full-bodied and rounded.  Despite being only 4% of the blend, the Gewürztraminer lends its unmistakable aromatics of lychee fruit and rose.  Wonderfully mouthwatering with a long, zippy finish. Very good/excellent.

At Martignetti’s for $22.99.

2011 Laurent Miquel Père et Fils Cinsault Syrah Pays d'Oc

For the Rosé Society, this is the time of year to which we look forward. The rosés from the previous vintage are now being released, making their way to our local wine shops’ shelves. For the most part – and there are exceptions – rosés should be drunk within a year following their release. In a way similar to Beaujolais Nouveau but so much better – and classier – rosés are meant to be drunk young.

One of the highlights of L’Adventure Languedoc which we attended at the Boston Conference Center in early April was the abundance of just released rosés. When I realized that the “Père et Fils” was from Languedoc and produced by the young winemaker Laurent Miquel, into my cart  it went. Incidentally, the labelling on the bottle would have been inconceiveable in France five years ago: the varietals, Cinsault and Syrah, are boldly proclaimed. In order to compete in the world wine market and, in accordance with European Union classification initiatives, the French system was overhauled; varietals and location where the grapes were grown can now be displayed on wine labels.

The wine is wonderfully fresh with a very definite zip. The aroma is one of ripe red berries. The juicy fruit carries through onto the palate. There is a pleasant softness to the mouthfeel followed by a good dose of acidity. The fruit follows through to the end – and with the acidity – makes for a lovely finish. The result is fruit forward and refreshing, suitable for both quaffing and pairing with food.

A good choice for Mothers’ Day – the low alcohol level of 12.5% ensures that the old lady – I mean your mother – won’t get too unruly.

$9.99 on sale at

Whole Foods Market   340 River St.   Camb. MA

"Think Pink!"

The rosé season has begun. Katrin with her review of the 2010 Meinklang Prosa inaugurated our pink season. (And if you find this style of lightly effervescent rosé enjoyable, seek out the one one made by Michlits, another biodynamic Austrian producer.) This is a time of year that we of the Rosé Society anticipate. The Rosé Society – the name bestowed on us by Eleni –  is one of several alter egos present at WineDineWith.Us. When we were young wineaux just forming the tasting group that would become this blog, one of our interests was “pinks”. At that time rosés were somewhat controversial – the avant garde of the wine world was promoting them while the old guard was haughtily dismissing them. Times change – the avant garde won, the old guard dottered off - and rosés have become a mainstay of the wine scene.

My first rosé of the season is the 2011 Château de Campuget Tradition Rosé Costière de Nîmes. A blend of 30% Grenache Noir and 70% Syrah, the wine is rightly characterized as a “PLW”, i.e. “ pretty little wine”. And pretty it is. While the producer describes the hue as “peony pink”, there actually is a strong splash of salmon that makes the wine less gaudy than peony would imply. A bowl of mixed red berries, a sprig or two of wild herbs – a delicate nose. The mouthfeel is smooth, rounded, a bit weighty, contrasting nicely with the medium acidity that follows. The wine finishes with some astringency which further adds to the structure. The delicate fruit carries through to the finish. As befits a PLW, there is no complexity here only quaffability. As summer too slowly approaches, get a jump on the season and “Think Pink”.

Available at Bin Ends $9.60

The L’Aventure Languedoc tasting in April that Glenn and I participated in last month was a fantastic opportunity to get reacquainted with the wines of the Languedoc. One of the things that I took away from that tasting was that there are many great wines – not the rough plonk for which it had developed a bad reputation – being made in the region that are available here at quite reasonable prices. Of the dozens that we tasted, one particular wine really stood out: the 2007 Pierre Gaillard Transhumance.  Both Glenn and I stood back and said “wow” and savored the sample. It was concentrated, but elegant, and I made a point to seek it out after the tasting.

With May 3 being Languedoc Wine Day on Twitter (#LanguedocDay), it seemed a perfect time to open this wine.  Made by Pierre Gaillard, who is better known for his wines from the northern Rhône, Transhumance is a blend of 50% Syrah, 40% Grenache, and 10% Mourvedre. It is from a small appellation called Faugères, which has soils dominated by schist.

At five years old, it showed little sign of fatigue in the glass with a core of dark purple and lighter violet rim. The first aromas to arise from the wine were stone, dust, and minerality. This was followed by dark cherry, a bit of blueberry, leather, and smoke. Cherry jam, cocoa, and spice on the palate. While the acidity gave Transhumance a zippy freshness, the velvety tannins were rather light and short-lived. Spice and heat on the finish. Very good.

At The Vin Bin for $29.99.

Languedoc – L’Aventure Languedoc

 Languedoc , including Roussillon, is the largest wine producing region of not only France, but the world. However, only lately have sales of the region’s wines seen an uptick due to the increasingly favorable perception of the region. Though there have always been producers of quality wine here, the majority of wine was often poor plonk, much of it destined for the European wine lake. Now the situation is improving. Growers and winemakers, seeing the implications for them of the growing international wine trade, have started to turn the region around. Languedoc wines are both accessible and good value – key selling points for American wine buyers. To further promote the improved quality of Languedoc AOC wines, CIVL, the trade council representing these wines, is presenting for the first time L’Adventure Languedoc, a series of events for both consumers and the trade across the US. In Boston, the event was held at the Boston Conference Center, a wonderfully refurbished venue at the end of the Boston Fish Pier.

 Since I’m a fan of the Piquepol grape, I was more than happy to have the opportunity to taste a variety of offerings from the appellation, Picpoul de Pinet, where the grape plays a starring role. The wines ranged from ultra racy to rich and full-bodied. My favorite of the lot was the 2010 Paul Mas Estates Picpoul de Pinet Grand Vin de Languedoc. In anticipation of summer, we zoomed in on rosés; my favorite the 2011 Château Sainte Eulalie Plaisir d’Eulalie Minervois. As for reds, I favored wines where Syrah was the dominant varietal. I thoroughly enjoyed the 2007 Pierre Gaillard Faugères Transhumance from the noted M. Gaillard, a vigneron based in the Northern Rhone  but who now  has a domaine in Languedoc. Also outstanding was the 2009 Hecht and Bannier Minervois. Katrin’s top five, in no particular order, were the 2009 Chateau Sainte Eulalie Minervois la Liviniére La Cantilene; the 2010 Paul Mas Estates Picpoul de Pinet Grand Vin de Languedoc; the 2007 Pierre Gaillard Faugères Transhumance; the 2011 Cave de Pomerols 100% Syrah – Sud de France Rosé; the 2011 Castelmaure Corbières Rosé.

Loire – Loire Valley Wines

The Loire Valley is no longer terra incognita to American wine buyers. Wines that have long been popular in France – Loire wines are the mainstay of the cartes de vin in French bistros – are now appreciated here and more easily found than ever. These wines represent a multitude of both white and red varietals and styles – racy or full-bodied whites, light or hearty reds, rosés both dry and off-dry and sparklers. Literally, in the Loire, there is something for every taste.

Like last year, the Loire Valley Wines trade show was held at the EMC Club at Fenway Park. Understandably, the venue competed with the wines, even more so since it was the day before the home opener. Yet, we were able to focus on the task at hand. First off, if ever we regretted not having an importer’s license, it was at this event. Most of the wines had no Massachusetts importers. And since we were merely press, our praise for the participants’ wines was faint indeed. We tasted racy Sauvignon Blancs with wonderful grapefruit zip; an obscure but delicious white varietal – Romorantin; both delicate Pinot Noirs and more robust iterations of this grape; spot-on renditions of Cabernet Franc; and sparkling Cremants de Loire that  rivaled some Champagnes. We could taste but couldn’t buy out in the real world and consequently felt that we wouldn’t recommend wines unavailable in Massachusetts. Hopefully, some of these good quality wines found an importer and will be available in the future. At some point, we grabbed a glass of a particularly toothsome Cab Franc to savor and made our way to the outside seats to contemplate the Old Ballyard.

An interesting aspect of the show was the prominence – at least it seemed to us –  of off-dry rosés. I initially felt this inclusion was misguided – Americans want dry wines. But do they? With the recent emergence of Muscat/Moscato, perhaps these rosés represent an emerging trend. And frankly, as one who doesn’t fear sugar, I found several quite captivating, perfect summer aperitifs.

Contemplating the Old Ballyard

KATRIN: Over the years – and especially before we even launched the Wine Dine With Us blog – we have attended quite a few wine dinners.  The best of these wine dinners bring together a winery and a restaurant that complement each other stylistically and philosophically, resulting in food and wine pairings that bring out the best of each other. The April 23 dinner at Harvest in Cambridge with David Hopkins, the winemaker at Bridlewood Estate Winery, did just that. We were impressed by both the quality of these well-made wines and the flavorful dishes. In fact, early on, Glenn leaned over and asked me to tweet “Most incredible wine dinner ever!”

GLENN: Several years previously, we had attended a dinner at Harvest that featured the wines of Hamilton Russell. Now, there was a new chef in the kitchen and a winery with which I was unfamiliar. I was put partially at ease when I met the Bridlewood winemaker David Hopkins, a genial gently aged surfer dude. And then I had a sip of Bridlewood’s Monterey County Chardonnay and  knew that the evening’s wines would be just fine. Here was a Chardonnay with rich fruit – but no annoying tropical fruits – and good acidity,  a wine ideal for pairing with food. Yet there was something intriguing about the wine.  With the first course of the perfectly seared scallops – caramelized without, creamy within – I was put totally at ease: the food was going to be spectacular.

KATRIN: Part of David’s winemaking philosophy is that he makes wines first and foremost for himself.  He explained that he likes good food and wants a wine that will go well with the meal. He looks to make sure that the acidity and tannins are to his liking and that the fruit is varietally correct. In Old World fashion, he aims to create wines that can age and that express the terroir – a term that has become almost a dirty word among American winemakers. The Chardonnay was a perfect balance of richness, flavor, and food-friendly acidity. The Pinot Noir was elegant and a wine I will look forward to trying again. Tipping its hat at the Rhone and California’s Rhone Rangers, the Blend 175 (50% Syrah, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Viognier, 10% Grenache) was approachable and rich with black and blue fruits, licorice, and black cherry.

GLENN: Simply put, David Hopkins likes to talk about his work and does it well. Each course and its accompanying wine led to detailed discussion about David’s winemaking, both in terms of both philosophy and practice. I did find out what made my Chardonnay so intriguing. Taking a cue from the French, he adds a bit of Viognier that elevates this wine from the ordinary. Of the evening’s five wines, I most enjoyed the Monterey County Pinot Noir, a wine that proves that the craze for Cali Pinot – sparked by Sideways – was well founded. Not overly extracted nor excessively alcoholic, the wine is redolent of Bing cherries, mushrooms and autumn leaves with the requisite acidity to be food-friendly. In fact, Mr. Hopkins does not make the often typical low acid, high alcohol California fruit bombs. The Pinot accompanied the Tenderloin Tartare which was outstanding. In fact, all the courses were excellent and thoughtfully composed.  Even though we had previously enjoyed  Chef Mary Dumont’s food at The Dunaway House in Portsmouth, the meal at Harvest showed just how much her considerable talents have evolved. Kudos to Chef Dumont and her staff!

KATRIN: The wines were a delightful change of pace, proving that there some winemakers in California who are willing to buck convention and make wines that are profoundly enjoyable without the whopping alcohol levels and heavy extraction. And David Hopkins is one.   Special thanks to Jenna Buhagiar of Fleishman Hillard for putting together this perfect match and for inviting us to this media-only dinner and to David Hopkins for making the evening fun and fact-filled!

The Menu and Wine Pairings
Seared Scituate Scallop
Richter Farm Rhubarb, Celery, English Peas, Candied Ginger & Celery Salad
2008 Monterey County Chardonnay

Painted Hills Tenderloin Tartare
Caperberries, Crispy Shallots, White Truffle Oil & Toasted Country Bread
2008 Monterey County Pinot Noir

Roulade of Giannone Farms Chicken
Wild Mushrooms, Green Garlic, Fava Beans, Vanilla Scented Carrots
2010 Central Coast Blend 175

Rooibos Tea Marinated Pennsylvania Duck Breast
Bing Cherries, Fennel, Soy Beans, Forbidden Black Rice
2010 Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon

Toffee Chestnut Cake
Milk Jam, Mead Jelly, Orange, Sheep’s Milk Frozen Yogurt
2010 Late Harvest Viognier

If ever a wine called to me from the shelf of a wine shop, it was this one. From the pink cow and butterflies on the label to the cork fastened down with loops of string to the enticing strawberry-salmon color that seems to shine in the clear bottle, I was destined to leave the store with the Meinklang.  But only after the sales person assured me it was dry. After all, with an alcohol level of merely 10.5%, I wondered if this was going to be a sweet sipper.  Low alcohol, pink, biodynamic, and the winemaker is a woman – could it get any better?

The nose and the palate are redolent of a basket of red, ripe summer fruits – strawberries, sour cherries, and raspberry.  After the initial charge of intense, mouth-watering acidity, the wine’s light bubbles dance around in the mouth. There is just a hint of residual sugar, but with the acidity I was actually glad for it. Medium body and a long, red-berry finish. This wine became richer and more flavorful when it was between refrigerator and room temperature. Delicious.

At Brix on Broad for $19.99.