(Disclaimer –  I apologize – but not too profusely – for the title of this post. Having been “born bad” – without a sufficiency of better judgement – I just couldn’t resist; yet I’m positive I won’t be the only blogger guilty of being lured to triteness. Glenn.)

Glenn – The subject line of Katrin’s email was “Next new place”. Opening it up, the text was brief “The Gallows another gastropub in South End”. I had recently received a Zagat email about the place and knew that the people who did The Biltmore, the original gastropub in the Western Suburbs, were behind the project. Gastropub, bistro, brasserie, tavern - whatever – I thought the concept bordered on being overworked. However, as the recession continues – and continues – the idea of mixing good cocktails and comfort food continues to have appeal. We’ve been to some of the best and most inspired – a “tavern” in a boutique hotel – and the not so good and lacklustre – a “bistro” in a clothing store on the waterfont. So, why not try another? And they also serve up that somewhat minor food trend – poutine – straight from the canon of French-Canadian cookery.

Katrin - The interior is simple but well-designed with eye-catching design details. Plus looking out to the street from the bar area, the expanse of windows are filled with the Cathedral of the Holy Cross across the street. We both started with cocktails; Glenn had the “hysteria-inducing” Elisabeth Aplegate, which featured gin, absinthe, and cucumber puree, while I chose the Angel’s Share, named for the wine that evaporates during aging. Both were good starters, before the food and wine. The wine list is well-selected and fairly priced, with enough options to keep both of our interests.

Glenn – I have to say I really admired the design and typography of the menu. I know that stylistically it references the historic nature of the Sound End site where The Gallows sits –  that of the colonial hanging ground of Boston on the Washington St. neck – but I found it well done. And what a menu! We finally picked 5 items – 2 from the “hors d’oeuvres” section, 1 from the “meats section”, 1 from the “poutine” section and 1 from the “mains”.

Katrin - The menu presented somewhat of a quandry, offering too many dishes that both of us wanted to try. In the end our five items were a bit too much food, though everything was excellent.  Our hors d’oeuvres were a satisfying variety of tastes and textures. I was still thinking about the Buffalo Chicken Livers today and how perfectly spicy and delicately crispy they were. The firm Bourbon pickled peaches were still firm and subtley sweet and sour. We shared the traditional poutine and the Meyer Ranch Brisket, both of which were generous portions and would have been perfect on a chilly fall evening. 

Glenn – Without a doubt, the Buffalo Chicken Livers were my favorite. Why hadn’t I seen these before? I also liked the pork terrine – well seasoned and presented and so reasonably priced. I like this trend that we’ve been seeing of house-made charcuterie. The poutine was fine but as I said earlier, I think of this as a somewhat minor trend.

Katrin – In closing, The Gallows was a delightful dining experience – the setting, the service, and the food. I am very much looking forward to returning and trying some of the other offerings, especially the platters. Great addition to the growing list of gastropubs in Boston and to the South End.

No – this post isn’t about what plonk is appropriate for breakfast. There is only one wine suitable for that meal – champagne. Rather, after a late breakfast at the Ball Square Cafe – recommended by Chef Morgan from the Sunday Night Supper Club - I came upon Ball Square Fine Wines and Liquors. When I had lived in Somerville, the store had been a somewhat hole-in-the-wall packy – now, having taken over the space next door, it was twice its former size. I wandered in and was greeted by wall-to-wall wine, a multitude of craft beers, a small but thoughtfully selected offering of spirits and a case filled with a solid selection of American and international cheeses. The packy had been transformed. I knew this would be a good Patrol.As I began my shopping, I was fortunate to meet Rebecca Rethore, Director, Business Development/Wine Associate of the shop. She gave me a tour and various recommendations. Usually when I’m on patrol, I rely on my own knowledge and instincts; in this case, I had a knowledgeable guide. Her assistance was invaluable and I came away with a strong selection of summer plonk – 3 whites, 2 roses and one red.  My thanks to Rebecca.

• Claar Cellars Sauvignon Blanc WA 2008 $13.99. From a small, family owned winery in The Columbia River Valley, a refreshing white. In the nose, lime, gooseberry and grass; a certain smoothness and weight on the palate, followed by a good acidic finish with some astringency. A bit of residual sugar highlights the fruit, while the acidity prevents the wine from being cloying.
• Pares Balta Blanc de Pacs Penedes 2009 $11.99. A still, organic wine made from the grapes used to produce cava – Parallada, Xarel-lo and Macabeo. The winery is owned by 2 brothers; their wives are the winemakers. In the nose, citrus, grass, white pepper, anise; smooth on the palate, finishing with  good acidity.
• Domaine Felines Jourdan Picpoul de Pinet Languedoc 2009 $10.99. A simple white from the Languedoc made with the indigenous Picpoul grape. In the nose, apple and lemon, sweet herbs; on the palate, the fruit is followed by a strong, but not overpowering,  acidic finish.
• Domaine les Grand Bois Cuvee les Trois Soueurs Cotes du Rhone 2009 $13.99. The cuvee -  65% Grenache, 25% Carignan and 10% Cinsault – is fermented in French and American oak. (At least that’s what the website says.) I found this rose – a pale salmon –  to be wonderfully dry and nicely balanced -  strawberries and herbs, a bit of spice; good acidity.
• ZAZA Garnacha Rose Campo de Borja 2009 $8.99. This is the rose Rebecca recommends to her friends who insist that they don’t/won’t like roses. I got a little nervous when I opened the bottle – it smelled as if I had just unwrapped a piece of Double Bubble. However, that aroma quickly dissipated. A deep raspberry color; on the nose, very ripe red berries, roses, sweet herbs and spice;on the palate,  the concentrated fruit followed by good acidity. Since the wine is vinified on its lees, it has some weight.
• And the lone red – Chateau Bellevue La Foret Fronton 2006 $11.99.  A blend of 50% Negrette, 35% Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Syrah, the winery calls this wine its “classic red”. In the nose, black fruits, earthiness, underbrush – a bit rustic; on the palate, a good dose of minerality finishing with mild tannins. Good for the grill.

My total – before tax – was $70.84, which included my discount.Yes –  Ball Square has a wine club and offers discounts to members, a good way to beat that pesky sales tax. I was pleased with this Patrol – with Rebecca’s assistance, I’d made a good selection of value-priced summer wines.

Central Bottle and Provision is a busy place. A wine shop with a unique and well chosen inventory of wines from small producers, delicious take-away food and a great cheese wall and case, it has an ambitious calendar of events – chef demos,  meet- and- greets with winemakers, a weekly wine bar (or the occasional beer bar) and a staff of congenial folks who actually appear to enjoy their jobs.  There is also a seasonal cheese series consisting of  four classes – spring, summer, fall and winter. The series is moderated by cheese master Robert Aguilera and David Seaton, the cheesemonger of Central Bottle. I had missed the spring class – I was at The Wine Riot - but I signed up early for the summer session which was devoted entirely to goat cheese.

Our tasting plates were composed of four cheeses arranged by intensity – leading off with the mildest cheese and finishing with the most intense. The effect, as Robert explained, was to build upon the flavors of the preceding cheeses and create a totality of taste. The cheeses ranged from those produced at the start of spring to one that was a mere month old. These were paired with two wines, both from the Loire – home of great goat cheeses – and a French blonde ale. Leading off with a discussion about the wiley ways of goats, Robert covered a wide range of topics during the tasting - the history of cheese, appropriate condiments to serve with cheese, storage of cheese, production of cheese, types of cheese rinds and their formation, the role of medieval monks in cheese development and suggestions for wine and cheese pairings.  Truly a crash course in all things cheese. David further embellished Robert’s comments  and provided a counterpoint in the discussion about pairings. For those who came thinking that goat cheese is that cryovaced log in the supermarket cheese case, the evening was a revelation.

By order of intensity, the cheeses tasted were -

• Lake’s Edge, Salisbury VT., aged 30 days, evocative of the French classic Morbier with a streak of ash.
• Autor, Quatretonda, Spain – aged 90 days, coagulated with vegetable rennet resulting in a somewhat bitter but pleasant finish.
• Twig Farm Square, West Cornwall , Vt., aged 80 days, a tomme-style cheese formed by wrapping the cheese in cloth.
• Mont St. Francis, Greenville, IN, aged 60+ days, from the godmother of American artisanal cheeses, Judy Schad.

These cheeses were paired with -

• Domaine Augis Valencay Loire 2009 – a zippy blend of Sauvignon Blanc and, giving the wine a litte flesh, Chardonnay.
• Lieu-Dit-Cocagne Rose Vendomois Loire 2009 – the palest rose made from Pineau d’Aunis, spice and minerals.
• La Choulette “Sans Culotte” France - a blond ale redolent of apricots and malt and a fitting homage to the recently observed Bastille Day.

Glenn – What a concept! Combine social media and  networking with  foodies and end up with an event at a restaurant. I know that the success of the Korean taco trucks in L.A. is fueled by Twitter – but this is Boston and Mystery Meet is the new frontier in the internet food scene here. The premise of Mystery Meet is simple – contact foodies through email and Twitter and announce a date for a tasting event. Then, closer to the date, announce the location. People show up and have a great time. And we did. This was the inaugural event hosted by Mystery Meet and was a success.

Katrin -  Alternative dining experiences have intrigued the winedinewith.us team since before the launch of our blog, leading to the creation of the Sunday Night Supper Club and participating in underground dinners. Founded by Seth Resler, the Mystery Meet is a fabulous way to meet local foodies and try different restaurants.

Glenn – I had always wanted to eat at Ten Tables but traveling to Jamaica Plain can be daunting. Their second location in Cambridge, in the space vacated by Craigie Street Bistro – now Craigie on Main – is much more accessible for me. After checking out the menu online to get a feel for the chef’’s cuisine – and finding it quite appealing – I was looking forward to the Mystery Meet.

Katrin – I first checked out the wine list and thought that it was carefully selected and interesting. Plus the menu looked great.

Glenn – The tasting menu – 4 courses for $40 – was well planned – composed salad, fish course, meat course and dessert – some items chosen from the current menu while others were created especially for the event. For an additional $25, wines could be paired with each course. I thought this to be great value. I would be hard pressed to pick my favorite course – all were freshly and thoughtfully prepared using as may local ingredients as available. I appreciated the visit to our table by the chef, David Punch, to discuss the food and answer our questions, but also to inadvertently receive kudos for such fine food. Also, service, under the direction of Ian Rose, the GM, was outstanding.

Katrin – The salad (Prosciutto Americano with Asparagus, Fava Beans, Shaved Pecorino, Walnuts
& Black Truffle Vinaigrette) was a perfect starter. Those of us who opted for the wine pairing had the choice of three white wines.  The second course was the fish course. Some at our table had cod over cherry tomatoes and cucumber gazpacho; others got the bluefish with sugar snaps, yellow Indian woman beans and spicy chorizo sauce.  The accompanying wine was the Jean Luc Colombo Rose. I’m not a big fan of bluefish, but it was well done with a savory and crispy top. The next course was a stand out:  Berkshire pork over freshly-shucked corn with chipotle butter. And finally, the dessert.  Again some of us had the rich chocolate terrine with sea salt and Thai basil ice cream and others Greek yogurt panna cotta with strawberries and saba. (Foodie quiz of the day – “What is saba?”)

Glenn – I really enjoyed the wines we were served. Also, I thought it quite hospitable to offer several choices for each course rather than just being given a pour. The Colombard and Ugni Blanc blend from Gascony was the perfect summer white – aromatic, lemony and crisp. Since I’m a fan of Crus Beaujolais, I was pleased to be offered a Moulin a Vent. And, as a former pastry chef, the selection of dessert wines was varied and gratifying – a late harvest Zinfandel, a Banyuls and Vin Doux Naturel of Petit Manseng.

Katrin – Super idea, Seth!  Great execution, Ten Tables!  Thanks for a fun evening!

I was going to a small Solstice Eve dinner. Of course, I would bring the cheese. I wanted cheeses that would be perfect for summer – either fresh or, if aged, at their peak. So I was off to Central Bottle and Provision to consult with David, my favorite cheesemonger. Central Bottle always has an everchanging inventory of great domestic and international cheeses. David is always seeking out interesting new cheeses, bringing in the best that he can procure from his purveyors. And he always offers many samples – questioning me about cheeses I’ve purchased in the past to determine what I might like of his current stock. I taste, I judge, we move on to the next. For my Solstice cheese plate, I wanted to present the trinity - cow, goat and sheep. After a bit of back and forth, an exchange of cheese-world news and gossip, I had my three.

• “O’Banon“, pasturized goat’s milk, Capriole Farmsead Goat Cheeses, Greenville, IN. These people were at the forefront of the American cheese renaissance. They’ve been making O’Banon for over 20 years. Originally called Banon after the classic French goat cheese, they changed the name to O’Banon when the French cheese was given DOC status. Aside – The French are quite sensitive about proprietary names – witness the brouhaha, including legal action, over the use of the word “champagne”. The new name honors a family friend who died unexpectedly. Due to FDA regulations, the milk for this cheese is pasteurized since it is aged for less than 60 days. The cheese is visually stunning. After molding, the cheese is wrapped in chestnut leaves that have been soaked in Woodford Reserve Bourbon and secured with rafia. When the rafia is cut, the leave unfold like the petals of a flower – how appropriate for summer. The leaves and boubon lend a vegetal tang to the cheese. The texture is ethereal – this is the lightest goat cheese I’ve ever eaten. This cheese has now earned a place on my Cheese Honor Roll.
• “Bouree“, raw cow’s milk cheese, Dancing Cow Farmstead Cheese, VT. Fom the beautiful Champlain Valley of Vermont comes this raw milk washed rind cheese. Since the cheese is aged for a minimum of 80 days, the milk need not be pasteurized. I first had this cheese last August at the Vermont Cheesemakers Festival where I had the opportuniy to meet the Dancing Cow cheesemakers. Theirs is a “back to the land” story. Having been around for the first “back to the land” movement, it’s gratifying for me to see the interest in and commitment to good agriculture continue and, more importantly, grow. At Dancing Cow, the cows are pastured and feed on grass from spring to late fall;  the flavors of the pasture coming through in this cheese. The paste is supple and meaty. A substantial cheese for the summer.
• “Frere Fumant“, raw sheep’s milk, 3 Corner Farm, Shushan, NY. I usually don’t eat smoked cheeses. I always feel that in some back room, someone with a bottle of liquid smoke and a paint brush is “smoking” the cheese.  So I was surprised when I liked this cheese so much. Of late, the cheesemakers at 3 Corner Farm have been able to introduce their cheeses to the Boston market and the reception has been more than positive. This is an aged cheese – hence the use of raw milk – modeled on Idiazabal, the classic Basque cheese from the Pyrenees. These sheep are pastured and grass-fed and again those flavors come through in the cheese. The paste is slightly dry and tangy with a wonderful smokiness. The cheese was a perfect counterpoint to the O’Banon. The name, Frere Fumant or “Smoking Brother” honors the monk who smokes the cheese.

My Solstice cheese plate was a winner, literally and figuratively. All the cheeses were enthusiastically received at dinner and all have received medals at the American Cheese Society competitions. Happy summer!

Enrich yourself. Visit the websites of these cheesemakers if you care about the practice of sustainable agriculture. These people are living that life. All have a commitment to the land they farm and the animals they raise. This is stewardship at its finest.

One of the many great things about Argentine wines currently available on the US market is the diversity of styles that can be found. While my last post featured an example of an oaky wine in the New World style, I found myself opening a more streamlined and rustic wine today. Though both are from Mendoza and made of a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and Merlot (though in different proportions), the Cicchitti Blend is remarkably different.

Right away, the bright ruby-purple color gives away the fact that the Malbec is dominant. The nose is more restrained, but eventually warms up to plum jam, earth, hay, and cassis. While there are some hints of oak, it definitely takes a backseat. In the mouth, it has more cherry and cassis flavors, withdry, earthy qualities.

The mouth feel is less smooth and integrated than the Finca Flichman – the tannins are rougher and the acidity fairly high, making for a taut wine. Yet despite this, the finish is fairly short, and the wine does not seem to have enough fruit to balance out the tannins and acidity. Overall, not a great wine on its own, but it goes well with food. It reminds me of how Argentine wines tasted before winemakers focused on meeting the tastes of the international market, before the flying winemakers, before heavy investments in new equipment and techniques in the vineyards and wineries – a touch rustic, a bit simpler.

The Cicchitti Blend was purchased for under $15 on a recent road trip to Buck’s County – though this actually came from a great little store across the Delaware River in Stockton, New Jersey.

If you are looking for an excellent example of a New World-style red wine for less than $20, this could be the wine for you. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and Merlot, the Paisaje de Tupungato is an impressive Argentine wine, made by a winery that is celebrating its 100th anniversary this year.

In the glass, it is deep ruby with a hint of some brick coming through. The aromas lift right out of the glass. There’s an immediate vanilla oak sweetness, followed by black cherry, plums, red currants, and some cedar. The palate carries forward the same fruits, but with a slight herbal quality, perhaps dill, mocha, and some spiciness.

One of the reasons I like this wine so much is that it is very well balanced and integrated. The new oak, while obviously present, does not overwhelm the wine, but rather adds tannins and flavor complexity. The acidity, tannins, and alcohol are well-proportioned and in balance. And the plum and red currant flavors are part of a lasting finish. Check it out at Federal Wine & Spirits for $17.99.

Katrin and I crossed the river into the Republic to visit the recently opened  Russell House Tavern in Harvard Square. Press about the restaurant had been favorable – imaginative gastropub menu, house-made charcuterie and a commitment to use locally sourced ingredients. On the bar side, there are classic and innovative cocktails, a fair amount of organic, biodynamic or sustainable wines and craft beers. Yet, hasn’t this been the trend of late? What really sets RHT apart, for me, is the wine on tap. For some of us wine geeks, wine on tap, a.k.a. wine-in-a-keg, is the Next Big Thing. The practice started on the West Coast and has now made its way to us. Like beer, wine is placed in a keg, connected to a feed line and pushed out by the introduction of nitrogen. There is no contact with oxygen! How many times have I ordered a glass of wine at a bar and while watching the bar tender dispense my pour from an already opened bottle, wondered just how long ago that wine had been opened and how conscientiously it had been stored and at what temperature. With wine on tap, the pour is always fresh and at the correct temperature. For those of a green bent, the idea has appeal since there are no empty wine bottles and cardboard packaging to recycle. The keg, when empty, can be refilled. And for those of an economical bent, less bottling and packaging costs means savings at the tap. It’s estimated that serving wine this way reduces costs 10-25%, savings passed on to the consumer – hopefully. Great idea or what!?! In line with the Tavern’s locavore bent, the two wines are from Westport Rivers Winery. The two, a Pinot Blanc and a rose of Pinot Noir, are both cool climate wines with plenty of zip. And at $5 a glass – $20 for a carafe – certainly a bargain. An aside – RHT goes bistro-style with its glassware – wines are served in tumblers; no swirling and sniffing here. RHT is the only place in Boston using this system; hopefully, though, not for long as other wineries and restaurants come to see the beauty of wine on tap.

I became reacquainted with roses when I began my wine studies at Boston University. I had originally met up with pinks many years before when Mateus had been my go-to wine for special occasions. At BU, I learned that roses were acceptable warm weather stand-ins for red wine. However, my instructors at  BU – as most true cognoscenti –  were ahead of the curve. When I went looking for roses at Kappy’s, my neighborhood package store, there were none to be had. When I asked the sales person why there were none, he said that they weren’t popular, no one bought them. At that point in time,  wine “ connoisseurs” considered roses to be declasse – serious wine drinkers kept a safe distant from them. Yet, wine fashions change -  word has gotten out that roses are not outre but  perfectly acceptable.  In the last two Plonk Patrol posts, I had written about two roses- the Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rose 2009 SA and the A to Z Oregon Rose 2008. I had been overwhelmed by both of these wines which I thought were trying too hard to be red wines. I wanted something light, summery. So, I was off to Kappy’s for another go-round; this time, though, where once there  were none, I was now faced with not less than twenty pinks. For this Patrol, I changed my criteria – since I had just written about two roses, I would get four wines in the $10 to $13 range. I also narrowed my search to only French roses – my Francophile bias.

• Domaine Houchart Rose Cotes de Provence 2009 $9.99. I first had this wine several years ago at thenow shuttered “Dish” in the South End. At the time, the wine made a vivid impression. Since then, it has gained in popularity and become quite ubiquitous. A blend of  Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvedre – all vinified separately – this wine is a great summer quaff. On the nose, very ripe red berries with sweet herbs; in the mouth,  the fruit gives way to a spicy acidic finish. A good value.
• Chateau de Flaugergues Cuvee Rosee Languedoc 2009 $10.99. The  cepage here is 50% Grenache, 35% Syrah and 15% Mourvedre. As one friend says of another friend’s King Charles Spaniel, “pretty but vacant”. There wasn’t much here in the nose. In the mouth, again not much flavor, yet a medium body with a long acidic finish. I was disappointed since I like this producer’s red wine. However, when  pairing this wine with food – linguine with mussels, fennel and tomatoes, there was some redemption.
• Chateau Pesquie Terrasses Rose Cotes du Ventoux 2009 $12.99. The blend here is of Southern Rhonevarietals – 50% Cinsault, 40% Grenache and 10% Syrah. In the nose, simple red berries; smooth with a bit of weight in the mouth; a good acidic finish with some astringency.Ventoux is a “value” appellation – good wines for less money than those from more famous neighboring areas, such as Tavel. That being said, for me, theDomaine Houchart is the better value.
• Domaine JM Raffault Rose Chinon 2009 $12.99. Changing locales and leaving the south of France behind, the next rose comes from the Loire and the grape is Cabernet Franc. A nose of ripe strawberries, a bit of white pepper; quite smooth on the palate with a bracing acidic finish. A good value.

To me, at least, roses aren’t very serious wines – though I admit there are some exceptions. As the wine writer Michael Schuster opines, roses are about context – the context of summer pleasures. Enjoy them and enjoy the season.

90+ Cellars is everywhere these days – or so it seems. On Saturday,  Rodney was again pouring them for a tasting at The Main Course in Canton. And earlier in the week, as I  wandered the aisles of Kappy’s in Wellington Circle, I was confronted with a compelling display of these wines. Having found the two I had bought on my last patrol to be good value, I picked up two more.  And likewise, I give them the Plonk Patrol endorsement. Yet, the labeling on one brought up a question about some current trends in the wine world.

• My first selection was the Lot 11 2009  Chardonnay from McLaren Vale, Australia. The winemaker took a multi-pronged approach to this wine – some is aged in stainless, while some is aged in new French oak; some undergoes malolactic fermentation, while some does not. The end result of this rodeo of stylistic decisions yields a decent chardonnay that’s a bargain at $10.99. Unlike the Chardonnay from Barossa, this wine lacks – fortunately – the weight – or is it onus –  of tropical fruits.
• My other purchase was the Lot 17  2007  Merlot from Napa Valley. One usually doesn’t think of Merlot and Napa – one thinks of Cabernet Sauvignon. Actually, this wine is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc – a Bordeaux blend if you will or, as it is called in California, Meritage. Merlot is the dominant grape here and, as a lover of Merlot, I thoroughly enjoyed this wine, particularly at the price of $11.99 –  another Plonk Patrol Pick.

However, it was the labeling of this wine as Merlot, rather than as a Bordeaux blend or Meritage that led to my musing of whither Bordeaux. Wine writer Eric Asimov recently wrote about the decline of  Bordeaux among young wine drinkers. While critics and collectors – and particularly the British wine press and Chinese speculators  - are all agog over the 2009 Bordeaux now being offered, popularity and consumption of  Bordeaux has actually been decreasing in the US.  Accessibility -  that a wine is ready to drink when bought –  is important to a certain segment of young wine drinkers. Witness the success of Charles Smith and his Modern Wine Project, based upon ready-to-be-drunk wines. Locally, witness the success of the Second Glass, part of whose mission is to strip away the pretensions surrounding wine. And if there are any pretensions surrounding wine, they become most evident when the wine is from Bordeaux. And so, was Lot 17 labeled Merlot to appeal to these younger wine drinkers? Would labeling it as Bordeaux or  Meritage have been off-putting to some? Is the veneration of Bordeaux a relic? Whither Bordeaux?