But then they threw me a curve ball. Gilt Groupe, the crafty parent company for all the Gilt sites as well as Jetsetter and Park & Bond, launched Gilt Taste in May of 2011. Premised as a marketplace offering artisanal hard-to-find foods, I perused with great interest all of the fantastic foodie luxuries my pantry was so desperate to house. Although the prices weren’t as knock-your-socks-off good as they appeared to be on the company’s other sites, it’s a fantastic resource for easy access to notoriously hard to find items like fresh truffles, exotic meats and a wide assortment of micro greens. There are also killer entertaining or aficionado assortments, like the drool-inducing D’Artagnan “Happy Hour in a Box” cured meat set or Artisanal Premium Cheese’s “Connoisseur’s Collection.”

Great. Bad enough for my wallet as is, but then in late August, Gilt Taste launched their wine section, starting with more than 50 bottles but rapidly expanding to what is now more than 100 selections. I know what you’re thinking…. over 100 selections of wine, so what? I have more than that in my basement! What’s the big deal?

Well, first is the range. The assortment offers choices from around the globe (although it is heavy on the traditional retail regions like California, Italy and France), and the prices vary from inexpensive (like a Geatien & Meyer Saumur Brut Rosé for $16.99) to higher-end and classically cult (Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2005 Pauillac at $159.00).
 

And then there are some older or rare finds that are worth checking out just for the experience of tasting them. Items like the Domaine de Chevalier 1999 L’Esprit de Chevalier Pessac-Leognan Blanc and the Edi Kante 1991 Terranum Selezione from Carso in Northern Italy are sure to provide a lasting impression and wine memory, broadening your palate and providing greater reference for all your future consumption. There’s a selection of Hermann J. Wiemer Rieslings and Gewürztraminers, sharing some of the best wines from New York’s Finger Lakes wine region with thirsty drinkers across the states that might not otherwise have access to them. And why not go “orange” with Vodopivec’s 2006 Amphora?

But on top of the varying range is the layout of the site. Each selection opens to a close-up bottle image, a description of the wine and technical details such as varietals, alcohol and appellation. Every wine also carries a description of the producer complete with picture, providing a glimpse into who makes what you’re about to buy. There’s also an aging recommendation, serving temperature and detailed food pairing suggestions for each. What else could one possibly need?

It’s refreshing to come across a resourceful retail site that has so much to offer without feeling overwhelmed by too many selections. Good thing the holidays are here, as it’s absolutely with others in mind that I’ll keep checking in on this GILTy pleasure.

That's me, digging into the Pinot Noir class. Senior Judge Cameron Douglas, MS, and Associate Judge Emma Jenkins, MW, are in the background.

For years, I’ve resisted commenting on wine shows. I’ve read some of the online bashing, about how medals are given away like candy on Halloween; about how some show judges don’t know much about wine; and about how, since shows typically charge an entry fee, the awards they bestow are essentially worthless. I’m sure there are more complaints, but that’s not the point.

The real reason I’ve not written at any length on wine shows is that I typically don’t get to participate in show judging. But last month, I was invited to be the America’s international judge at the Air New Zealand Wine Awards. Run by New Zealand Winegrowers–the country’s national wine body–it is New Zealand’s Super Bowl of wine shows.

Five revolving panels of four judges each (three senior and one associate) evaluated nearly 1,500 entries–blind–over a three-day period. But this does not mean I tasted anything near that many wines. For relatively small classes, a single panel looked at all of the wines; for larger wine classes, like Sauvignon Blanc, the class was divided among multiple panels for initial judging. I don’t think I ever tasted more than 120 wines in a day, which made each day tiring but not exhausting.

All of the prospective gold medal wines (scoring 18.5 points or more out of 20) were looked at a second time by the panels judging them, and at that point some wines were knocked back down to silver and others elevated to elite gold (19 points or higher). The wines were tasted a third–and sometimes fourth–time to award the various trophies.

Now that I’ve given the background, here are some observations from the judging.

1. Only a very small proportion of wines entered received awards, meaning those that did are probably worth trying–especially those that received gold or silver.
2. All of the judges were highly skilled and experienced. The majority of them were practicing New Zealand winemakers, leavened by the presence of a few other wine professionals, and three international judges, Charles Metcalfe, from the UK, Michael Hill Smith, MW, from Australia, and myself.
3. Because so many of the judges were winemakers, there was very little tolerance for perceived winemaking faults, particularly characters typically associated with brettanomyces. Awarded wines tended to be very clean and fault-free.
4. Despite admonitions from Chair of Judges Steve Smith, MW, to “judge quality, not style,” there’s no question that some judging of style did occur. As another judge said to me during a debate over a particular Chardonnay, “That may be a style, but it’s no longer an acceptable style.”
5. Awarding medals based on consensus is apt to produce somewhat different results from how we rate wines at Wine Enthusiast, where each wine is typically reviewed by a single taster. The panel approach seems to reward wines that don’t step out of the box–those that epitomize current fashion rather than those that challenge it. On the other hand, individual reviewers reward or punish those outliers, depending on how those renegade characters align with their own personal taste preferences.
6. Several of the top producers don’t enter their wines, so the field being evaluated doesn’t always include wines that might be top of their field by reputation. While magazines can purchase wines if necessary, that’s not an option for a wine show.

You can see the complete results on the show’s Web site, and you can access my individual reviews of New Zealand wines via our online Buying Guide. I’ll be formally reviewing many of the award-winning wines in the months ahead as the latest releases arrive in the United States.

Read up, sure. Plan some, but really, just dive in. Learning about wine and exploring wine country have that in common.

In Newport, Rhode Island, I discovered that it’s not always wise to dine where the locals dine. I waited an hour on line at the restaurant every Newport local recommended for what turned out to be the blandest lobster roll and clam chowder I’ve ever had; next day I was forced by circumstances to sit down at what I thought would be a waterfront tourist trap, but The Black Pearl turned out to have fine food and a very good wine list.

In Washington D.C., I attended a winemaker dinner with the personable Jed Steele (Steele Wines, Lake County, CA) at the Blue Duck Tavern in the Park Hyatt. Fine wines by Jed and great food by Chef Brian McBride were served. But two discoveries: You enter the restaurant through the kitchen—one of the coolest kitchens I’ve ever seen—elbow to elbow with some of the chefs. And though Steele is known for his Pinots, a standout wine was his tart yet creamy and apricotty 2010 Shooting Star Aligoté. Aligoté is considered the the “other,” lesser white wine grape of Burgundy, and is a serious rarity in California. Adventurous winemaking on the part of Mr. Steele.

On my trek to Napa and Sonoma (we’ll ping-pong from one AVA to another in this account), I visited a few wineries for professional or goal-oriented reasons. They included Dutton-Goldfield (favorites: the ’09 Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir, 2010 Gewürztraminer and ’09 Stoetz Ridge Vineyard Zinfandel), Merry Edwards (’08 Flax Vineyard Pinot Noir and 2010 Sauvignon Blanc; really, everything) and Corison, a relatively small Napa producer of powerfully elegant Cabs, Cab Francs and more by Cathy Corison. This was a no-fuss visit—a barrel served as our tasting table. Unexpected delight: her 2008 Corazon, a Cabernet Sauvignon-based rosé.

But for the most part, I didn’t want to pursue goals or chase excellence for its own sake. I was traveling with my wife, Geri, and drinking-age son, Ryan, and it was more important to follow our group instincts rather than an itinerary. So, yes, we pulled into Darioush because of the architecture, but we stayed for some surprisingly sturdy Cabernets (our favorite, the 2006 Signature). We lingered forever at Silverado Vineyards because our host, Tom Kalbrener, was so charming and knowledgeable (2000 Stags Leap Cabernet). We wandered around Calistoga and Healdsburg and gaped at giant redwoods, just because.

We made some reservations and strict plans, but left plenty of time for serendipity. Which seems wise, until you learn—no, discover that you forgot something important.

We did make reservations at Hess Collection to enjoy a guided wine-and-food pairing flight followed by a tour of the art collection, a highlight of the trip. I made reservations at Mustard’s Grill, Cindy Pawlcyn’s outstanding restaurant, because instinct (and everyone who’s been to Napa) told me it would be great, and it was. I was fortunate to have arranged (thank you, Michele and Sally) a deluxe, very gracious tour of the new Francis Coppola Winery in Sonoma, where Coppola’s movie memorabilia is now on display and where his passionate love of wine (’07 Reserve Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, and a Sofia Riesling were favorites), food, Italy and hospitality is on full display. It’s all filtered through his renowned, uncanny showmanship—the a tavola dinner at Rustic, the winery’s restaurant, was maybe too showbizzy for me (attack of the acting waitrons!), but the food was grand.

Impulse led us to St. Supéry, where the ’06 Napa Valley Estate Cab (Rutherford? Dollarhide? The dog ate my notes.) turned out to be one of the best wines of the trip. My son coerced us into visiting Russian River Brewery for a beer flight; we were blown away by Supplication, a sour brown ale aged in Pinot Noir barrels.

On our final day I gazed at people serenely canoeing the Russian River, and wished I’d planned the trip more carefully to allow for that, while still feeling grateful for every unplanned moment. Remind me to do it exactly the same way next time.

Make Your Own: For vinophiles who always have something to say, how about giving them an opportunity to make their own wine? Custom winemaking facilities like Crushpad in Sonoma, CA or New York’s Staten Island Winery will put the power in their hands to create the perfect blend for themselves. Or, if you’d rather skip the winemaking part and just gift a creatively packaged selection of your design, check out the Your-Own-Private-Label options from City Winery in New York.

Mix it Up: There has definitely been a resurgence of interest in cocktails over the past decade, especially for well-made ones. Fresh ingredients, new and exciting spirits and even innovative techniques mean that there’s a whole new world of cocktails out there that most of us know nothing about. For the spirit lover in your life, consider gifting a ticket to a cocktail lab to discover the latest and greatest creations in the category. Companies like the Cocktail Ambassadors in San Francisco or your local bartending school are a good start, but flash cites like Gilt City and Living Social also feature items like this fairly often, usually hosted at a local bar or restaurant with some food pairings to keep things interesting, so be sure to keep an eye on those as well.

Learning is Fun!:  There are a wide variety of “classes” available in virtually every category of beverage, from wine to spirits, beer to sake, even coffee and tea. Thanks to an involved approach, easy atmosphere and lots of delicious tasting, attendees are treated to an experience that will educate and last a lifetime. This isn’t grammar or arithmetic – this is how to drink (and recognize what you like about it). I can’t think of anyone on my holiday list who wouldn’t be thrilled at the opportunity to try new libations!

NYC’s Astor Center offers a plethora of educational seminars, hands-on experiences and events, from the basic The Elements of Wine Class tasting class to the more focused and challenging Champagne vs. Sparkling Wine: Not all Bubbles are Created Equal experience, sure to thrill any wine geek. Outside of NYC, many culinary schools offer a wide variety of one-time or 4-8 week food and beverage classes to anyone interested, or check out your local retail shop, like Total Wine & More or BevMo, which frequently host specialized tastings and in-store events on wine, spirits and beer throughout their numerous locations. Check out your local institution or retailer’s Web site to see what they have coming up. You can also consider checking out your favorite local restaurants for upcoming winemaker or representative dinners. The best thing about this gift is you can indulge in it, too… register for two and make it something you can do together.

So there you have it, folks. You’ll never have to surrender to gift-giving defeat when you have these everyman-pleasing options up your sleeves! Now that I’ve shared my secrets, I’d love to hear your ideas for more amazing beverage-driven holiday gifts.

Statistics released last week by the Beverage Information Group indicate that overall beer consumption in the U.S. is down, as it has been trending over the past few years. It would be easy to jump to conclusions and fret that the beer boom is over, but a closer look at the numbers shows just the contrary: Although the Light segment continues to decline and contribute to the overall losses in the industry, growth in the Craft and Import segments remain significant despite their higher-priced items.

What does this mean, in a nutshell? Americans might be drinking less, but we’re drinking better! Hooray for us!

That’s right: More Americans are trading in fizzy yellow stuff for flavorful, artisanal selections created by brewers both abroad and across our great nation, looking for exciting selections and interesting, complex flavors that they’ve never experienced before. And with the most domestic breweries the U.S. has had in over 100 years (since about 1905) producing the widest array of styles, we have more delicious options available to us than ever.

Of course, the fabulous breweries that started this current craft trend about 25 to 30 years ago deserve the majority of the credit, followed closely by their later-blooming brewing brethren, but I have to believe that education has played a major role here as well. Associations like the Brewers Association and their array of consumer-education driven events like the Great American Beer Festival (which is coming up next week in Denver, CO) and Savor, homebrew groups and competitions throughout the country, savvy restaurateurs and programs like the Cicerone certification, and yes, media outlets including newspapers, magazines and even television shows have all helped to get the word out to consumers that there’s a world of flavor to be had for beer lovers.

And it seems like the people have heard. We all knew with the economic turmoil over the past couple of years that this transition wasn’t going to be easy, but it seems apparent now that while people are not as willing to spend more on alcoholic products, as they maybe once were, they’re comfortable getting less quantity for overall better quality.

But there’s still so much to learn, and so many beers to try. So keep up the good work, America. Keep drinking new and exciting brews, especially those made by small brewers right here in the USA.

To celebrate tonight, I’m gonna head to my local distributor after work and pick up something I’ve never tried before.  I’d love to hear what’s in your glass!

Cheers!

Personally, I think it’s a great idea; who doesn’t want another reason to drink a stellar IPA aside from the fact that it’s there and it’s good? But moreover, it’s a nice lead in to International Beer Day, which this year is Friday, August 5th. It’s like a warm-up to the grand fête, an IPA appetizer to the all-style bacchanalia, and it forces beer lovers to think about why they love the fizzy stuff so much and what great selection and diversity is now available to consumers around the globe.

It also encourages people to try something new, whether it’s a different style than they’re used to or a brewery they’ve never heard of. Any concept that gets folks to try something new or talk about good beer or wine is A-OK in my book.

I’m reviewing South African wines today for the November issue of the magazine, but I’ll definitely be celebrating IPA Day tonight with some of my personal favorites. To start will be a Samuel Smith India Ale, a good opener that will ease me into the style and prep me for the more assertive American offerings. Then will be a Smuttynose Finestkind IPA, one of the more available and delicious selections in my neck of the woods. For the final act? Definitely an Imperial IPA, and I’m thinking I have to check out the cellar to see what’s ripe for the picking: If memory serves me right, there’s a bottle of Avery’s Maharaja from a couple of batches back I’ve been holding on to as an experiment of DIPA evolution that I can’t wait to check out. What better night than tonight!

You can find some more recommendations and descriptions of reviewed IPAs in our Buying Guide. You can also check out some informational articles on Winemag.com by searching for “IPA”.

For more information on how people are celebrating, what they’re drinking, local events or stories and specials from your favorite brewers, check out the buzz on Facebook and Twitter with #IPAday. For a list of events for International Beer Day, check out their Web site, Facebook page or @IntlBeerDay Twitter feed.

Prost!

It got me thinking. If Moët can give us permission to enjoy Champagne on ice in a plastic glass, perhaps we should all lighten up on other wine etiquette. Sometimes I wish we didn’t tiptoe so gingerly through wine’s various rules. Basic tenets such as proper swirling, holding a wine glass at its base and drinking at a certain temperature exist for a reason. But sometimes we simply want to relax!

In honor of Independence day, I’m throwing all caution to the wind and admitting some of my bad habits. Here are three faux pas I am guilty of:

1)    When dining out, too often the perfect wine pairing is so out-of-reach that I don’t even make an attempt. With multiple diners and courses, one wine simply cannot match them all. Often I order a bottle for the table before we order food, based completely on mood and appetite. Food and wine pairing regulations are frequently ignored at the restaurant.

2)    If I’ve opened an everyday white at home and it has warmed up in the glass, I’m not above putting an ice cube in it.

3)    Though I loathe the unfortunate situation of receiving a corked wine at a restaurant and feel the customer has the right to send it back,  admittedly, I do it rarely. I have to be 150% confident in my accuracy to vocalize the problem to the server. All too often it spoils the tone of the meal when I’m met with a doubtful glance or an argument from the staff. I bet I’ve paid good money for bad wine on many occasions.

What kind of rules do you break? Fess up now!

This holiday weekend, I’m taking a tip from Moët & Chandon and passing on permission to throw all caution to the wind.  Drink your Champagne on ice! Pair your burgers with Sauvignon Blanc if you want! Put an ice cube in your wine for all I care! We all deserve to enjoy ourselves. Lighten up and enjoy your independence!

But many reds are fated to be left slumbering in the cellar, waiting for cool temperatures to return, and rightfully so. The mere idea of trying to keep a bottle of 1982 Grand-Puy-Lacoste from getting too warm at a picnic or from having its sediment stirred up while bringing it to the beach is daunting. The thought of a big, beefy, alcoholic red at the end of a long day becomes unappealing when the mercury is over 80°F or so and the humidity is hanging thick in the air.

Still, there’s no need to let the hot, humid weather completely dampen your enthusiasm for red wines. For inveterate–or even just occasional–red-wine drinkers, here are a few suggestions that will allow you to scratch that itch while keeping your cool.

Beaujolais

Most Beaujolais are not very tannic, meaning you can chill them down a little without making them taste hard and unappealing. That same slight chill will serve to accentuate the bright fruit and generally crisp acidity, increasing the wines’ ability to refresh. There’s no need to reach for cru Beaujolais, which are often more concentrated and tannic–look for simple Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages from the 2009 or 2010 vintages. Big négociants like Joseph Drouhin, Georges Duboeuf and Louis Jadot are reliable and widely distributed; small producers worth trying include Jean-Paul Brun, Michel Tête and Domaine de la Madone.

Sancerre

Although almost all of Sancerre’s production is devoted to white wines, the red wines–made from Pinot Noir–share some of the same breezy, fresh, herbal qualities. The crisp acidities and delicate red-fruit characters partner well with salmon and chicken dishes. Here are a couple of Sancerre Rouge worth seeking out: Domaine Reverdy Ducroux and Domaine Bailly-Reverdy.

Chinon

Many vintners in Chinon bottle two or more cuvées of their Cabernet Franc. Look for those from young vines or sandier sites, which will be lighter in body and less likely to have been aged in new oak. A bonus to these choices? They’re usually the least expensive offerings in a winery’s lineup. For fresh berry fruit with lightly herbal shadings, try the Les Granges bottling from Bernard Baudry or Trinch! by Catherine and Pierre Breton from neighboring Bourgueil.

Barbera

If you prefer Italian inspiration this summer, start with a traditional Barbera from Piedmont. Save the superripe luxury cuvées aged in French oak, which will be low in acid and high in tannin, for cooler months, and focus instead on wines made from earlier-picked grapes and vinified in stainless steel. Barbera made in this way is naturally high in acid and low in tannin, making for a refreshing quaff alongside pasta salads or salumi. Try Giacomo Vico‘s Barbera d’Alba (not the Superiore, which does see oak) or Castelvero‘s Barbera from Piemonte.

Ruché

A Piedmontese rarity, Ruché often features rose-like floral aromas and soft tannins, making it the sort of red that thrives in summer’s heat. Just don’t let the wine itself get too warm, or some of the nuances may be lost. An Internet search will find select U.S. retailers offering Cascina Tavijn, Luca Ferraris and Montalbera. Grignolino is another variety indigenous to Piedmont, also best drunk while young and fresh.  

Lambrusco

Authentic Lambrusco–not the Riunite or Canei of a prior generation–is a frothy purple wine that makes the perfect accompaniment to summer picnics. The bold fruit comes through even when chilled, and the bubbles serve to offset the fat in cold cuts and potato or macaroni salads. Look for dry versions (secco) from these producers: Barbolini, Francesco Vezzelli and Medici Ermete. Like many wines in our social media age, Lambrusco is being promoted through an official day (June 21). 

Frappato

Frappato is another Italian rarity, this time from Sicily, where folks know a thing or two about drinking red wines in hot weather. It’s typically very fresh and floral, with strawberry and raspberry notes that just taste summery. Arianna Occhipinti makes a lovely version; the one from Valle dell’Acate may be easier to find.

American Choices

Noticed an Old World bent to these selections? That’s because so many New World red wines emphasize ripeness and weight, making them less successful as summertime quaffs. Here are two California selections that buck the trend: Edmunds St John‘s Bone-Jolly Gamay from El Dorado and Dashe Cellars‘ Les Enfants Terrible Zinfandel (from Potter Valley in Mendocino). Or try some of the reds coming from such cool-climate states as Michigan or New York.

Although not an exhaustive list, hopefully these suggestions will give red-wine devotees hope as the temperatures climb. Please share your favorites via the comments section.

Alternatively–as I’ll admit to sometimes doing–damn the greenhouse gases, crank up the air conditioning and open a hearty winter-weight red with that brontosaurus-sized rib eye.

This Monday, June 6th, marks the launch of the Sud de France Festival in New York. The month-long festival, now in its third year, encourages attendees to experience the spirit of the Mediterranean lifestyle, complete with fine wine, foods and entertainment from the Languedoc-Roussillon region. It allows people the opportunity to learn more about the culture and specialties of the region through a convivial approach of tastings and experimentation, all at exciting venues with welcoming ambiance and alongside local winemakers and artists.

For a region with so much to offer, the concept behind the annual festival couldn’t be more appropriate. Check out some more of the event details here. But, this is an area of France that, despite being the largest wine-producing region in the world, many people are not familiar with and certainly would have difficulty differentiating between the various AOCs.

Producers and promoters of the region are optimistic that the new classification system agreed upon in August 2010 (read our article here) will help to clear things up for many consumers. Rankings based on familiar buzz words like Grand Cru and Grand Vin will hopefully provide a bit more insight and value to the wines of each appellation, prompting consumers to learn more about their favorites.

But there’s little better to help people form connections with new wines than having them taste for themselves. Add to that the food and cultural elements of the Sud de France way of life and it’s almost like being transported to the region itself, idyllic Mediterranean lifestyle and all. The greater association between a wine and its sense of place helps consumers to feel comfortable since they understand where it is coming from, what it’s made of, the kind of people who produce it and why they enjoy drinking it.

Many of the wines are fantastic, and the options to try them are plentiful throughout the festival at various events and tastings at venues of all types. Visit festival-suddefrance.com for more information or browse the full schedule of events here.

Also be sure to check out reviews for wines from the South of France in our Buying Guide at buyingguide.winemag.com or by clicking here.

Are you currently familiar with any Sud de France (Languedoc-Roussillon) wines? Which are your faves now, or what are you hoping to discover from the region in the future? What part of the festival sounds the best to you?

We can’t live on liquor alone, but we can have the best of both worlds by pairing it with food—and the most glorious pairing? Spirits and cheese, of course. It can make for some surprising and mind blowing combinations.

The goal when pairing spirits and cheese isn’t to be stringent about complementary flavors. Rather, take a chance by pairing less likely options. For example, the tart, tangy and mild character of a good American goat cheese perfectly pairs with an unaged American whiskey. The alcohol content of a whiskey slices through the rich, dry texture of the goat cheese, enhancing its citrus favors. Similarly, a powerful, smoky and peaty single malt from Islay may give the impression that it would dominate in flavor, yet when paired with a sweet-style Blue cheese, it leaves a savory finish that seems to last for hours. A paprika washed rind cheese from Spain can easily highlight some of the softer notes of a briny, salty, single malt from the Islands of Scotland.

When traveling the dessert route, match up a brittle, crystallized chunk of aged Gouda with rich Bourbon. The butterscotch, caramel and other sweet notes of the Bourbon will infuse your palate with the flavors of a delicious bread pudding.

While pairing spirits with cheese may appear a daunting task, you’ll never learn unless you practise. Invite friends over, put out a cheese plate and open some bottles of spirits. If the pairings really don’t work, try again. You can never have enough spirits or cheese.