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Homemade Wine: How To Make Wine From Any Fruit, Vegetable or Flower

Neil — Tue, 25 Jul 2023 14:26:04 +0000

Fruit wines are a great alternative to traditional grape wines, especially where it is hard to come by enough wine grape to make a batch. I have written a lot about making fruit wines and there are loads of recipes here on home brew answers.

In this article, we will cover making wines from any fruit, or even flowers and vegetables too. Allowing you to combine fruits to make unique fruit wines rather than just a single variety of fruit.

What Is Fruit Wine?

Fruit wine is an alcoholic beverage made by fermenting the juice, pulp or mash of fruits other than grapes. Fruit wines is a catchall term and similar style wine can also be made with flowers or vegetables.

Fruit wines often require the addition of sugar to boost the alcohol content and balance the natural acidity of the fruit. The fermentation process can also be more challenging due to the presence of pectin and other compounds in the fruit but these difficulties are easily countered with wine-making nutrients and additives.

Despite these differences in production, homemade fruit wines can rival grape wines in complexity, balance and drinkability. The end result captures the unique flavours and aromas of the source fruit in the wine.

Why Make Wine With Fruit?

Fruit wines allow you to experiment with the vast array of flavours especially when you have an abundance of produce from your garden or farmers market. From berries and stone fruits to citrus and tropical fruits, the options for creating your own unique fruit wines at home are endless.

In this article, we will provide you with the knowledge and recipes to get started crafting your own fruit wines.

Fruit wines are relatively easy to make at home, requiring only a few basic ingredients and equipment. The process involves mashing or juicing the fruit, adding sugar and yeast, and allowing the mixture to ferment for several weeks. With the right recipes and techniques, you can produce fruit wines that rival those found in stores.

What We Will Cover In This Guide

We will begin by discussing the equipment and supplies needed to make fruit wine, including fermentation vessels, airlocks, funnels, strainer bags, and sanitisers. Next, we will cover the basic fruit winemaking process from start to finish, highlighting key factors that influence flavour and quality.

Then, we will dive into some fruit wine recipes featuring berries, stone fruits, tree fruits, and more. The recipes cover a range of wine styles from dry to sweet and provide guidance on adjusting acid and sugar levels to achieve the perfect balance.

We will also look at customising your wines by adding flavours like herbs, spices and wood that will really pick up the complexity of your wine. Additional flavourings are often overlooked but just like with cooking the addition of herbs or spices, particularly with certain fruits will take your wine to the next level.

Equipment Needed To Make Homemade Wine From Fruit

When first starting out making fruit wine, I recommend keeping your equipment simple and inexpensive. Fancier equipment can be purchased later if you find you enjoy the process and want to expand your operations. However, with just a few basic items, you can produce perfectly drinkable fruit wines as you learn the ropes.

Primary Fermenter / Fermenting Bucket: All you need is a food-grade plastic bucket with an airtight lid. A 3-gallon bucket is a good size for most beginner fruit wine recipes which are a 1-gallon usually. The bucket acts as your primary fermenter where the fruit and yeast mixture will sit and bubble away for the initial fermentation stage.

Demijohn/Carboy: After the initial fermentation in the bucket, you can transfer the wine to a glass or plastic demijohn (carboy) for secondary fermentation. This helps clarify the wine and reduces exposure to oxygen.

Airlock & Bung: An airlock is a one-way valve that allows carbon dioxide to escape from the fermenter while preventing outside contaminants from entering. This helps control the fermentation and reduce the risk of infection. Basic S-shaped airlocks can be purchased for just a few dollars.

Siphon Tube & Bottling Wand: It is not a good idea to pour wine when its being made, this introduces oxygen which will age the wine quicker. Wine is racked from vessel to vessel by siphoning and I would recommend a bottling wand to fill bottles.

Bottles, Corks & Corker: You will need bottles and corks to bottle your wine. You can reuse bottles so clean them and save them when you finish a wine and a corker is a device to push the corks into the bottles.

Measuring Cups and Spoons: You’ll need basic measuring cups and spoons to accurately measure out the sugar, yeast, and other ingredients in your fruit wine recipes.

Fine Mesh Straining Bag: A mesh straining bag allows you to remove the fruit solids from the juice after mashing and squeezing the fruit. Reusable nylon strainer bags can be found for really cheap.

Sanitiser: Some basic no-rinse sanitiser is essential for cleaning and sanitising your equipment between uses to avoid contamination. Your local or online home brew retailer will have plenty to choose from and they are inexpensive sanitisers that work well.

Hydrometer & Test Jar: A hydrometer is a tool to measure the density of a liquid. In winemaking, we use a hydrometer and trial jar to measure the sugar content of the wine before and after fermentation. This tells us the progress of fermentation and importantly the amount of alcohol in the finished wine.

That covers the bare minimum of equipment needed to get started making your own fruit wines. Keep it simple, focus on the winemaking process, and have fun experimenting! You can always upgrade your equipment over time if you decide the hobby is for you.

Cleaning & Sanitising For Fruit Wine Making

Cleaning and sanitising are critical to the success of your fruit wine. Without proper sanitation, your wine can become contaminated with bacteria or wild yeast that will spoil the wine and ruin the flavour and aroma.

It is important to note that no pathogenic bacteria that can make you ill will survive in wine. The worst thing that will happen is the wine will taste and smell bad.

When making fruit wine, it is important to clean and sanitise all equipment, surfaces and containers that will come into contact with the fruit, juice or wine.

It’s also important to sanitise your hands thoroughly before handling any of the fruit, juice or wine. Wearing disposable gloves that you change frequently is a good practice.

Use a no-rinse sanitiser specifically made for brewing and winemaking. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for mixing the proper concentration of sanitiser and soaking times, don’t be tempted to add more or less.

Neglecting sanitation is a surefire way to ruin an entire batch of wine.

The Basic Process Of Making A Wine From Any Fruit, Vegetable Or Flower

Most fruit wines follow very similar steps to produce. Whether you are making a berry wine, apple wine, stone fruit wine or even a dried fruit wine these steps will explain the process:

Selecting and preparing the fruit: Choose ripe fruit in good condition and wash or scrub as needed. The fruit may need to be crushed, mashed or juiced depending on the recipe.
Extracting flavour from the fruit: In most cases, primary fermentation happens with the fruit flesh and juice in the fermenter. The fruit is placed in a straining bag in the fermenter and crushed or broken down.
Adding sugar: Most fruit wines require additional sugar to boost the alcohol content and balance the acidity. The amount of sugar needed will depend on the type of fruit and desired sweetness.
Adding additives: Producing the best wines requires some additives, I will explain those in a moment but if you are serious about making fruit wine you’ll need to buy some home brew shop or online.
Adding yeast. Wine yeast is added to the fruit-sugar mixture to start the fermentation process. Wine yeast strains are best for producing quality fruit wines.
Primary fermentation: The fruit-sugar-yeast mixture is placed in an airtight container and left to ferment for 1-3 weeks. During this stage, the yeast converts the sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide.

Fermentation: The fermentation process produces the alcohol in the wine. The yeast “eats” the sugar in the fruit juice and produces alcohol and carbon dioxide as byproducts. The CO2 escapes through an airlock, while the alcohol remains in the wine. A vigorous and active fermentation is important to produce a balanced fruit wine.

Transfer to demijohn/carboy: After 1-3 weeks of primary fermentation, the fruit wine is transferred to a glass carboy to continue fermenting. This helps clarify the wine by separating it from the sediment and pulp.
Secondary fermentation: The fruit wine remains in the carboy for several weeks or months to complete fermentation. This stage helps develop flavour and refine the taste.
Conditioning: Once fermentation is complete, the wine is left to “condition” for a few months. This allows excess yeast and particles to settle out, clarifying the wine further.
Bottling: After conditioning, the clear fruit wine is siphoned from the carboy and bottled. The bottles are capped or corked and stored upright to age.

That covers the basic steps from start to finish for making fruit wine at home, from fermentation to bottling. Following these steps will produce a delicious and unique fruit wine with balanced flavours.

Homemade Wine Ingredients & Wine Making Additives

Many of the chemicals and additives used in fruit winemaking are the same as those used in grape winemaking. The primary ones are:

Wine Yeast: Dried or liquid yeast is added to the fruit or must to start the fermentation process and convert the sugars into alcohol. Winemakers use specialized wine yeast strains for fruit wines. Don’t be tempted to use baker’s yeast.

Pectic Enzyme: This enzyme is added to help break down pectin in the fruit, which can otherwise cause the wine to become hazy. It’s especially useful for fruit wines made from apples and stone fruits.

Acid Blend: If the fruit lacks sufficient acidity, an acid blend (tartaric, malic and citric acids) may be added to balance the pH and help stabilize the wine.

Wine Tannin: Tannin, either from grape or oak sources, can be added to improve the mouthfeel and ageing potential of fruit wines that are naturally low in tannins.

Campden tablets / Sulfite: A small amount of potassium metabisulfite or sodium metabisulfite is typically added as a preservative and antioxidant early in the winemaking process.

Yeast Nutrient: A yeast nutrient may be added to the must to ensure the yeast has sufficient nitrogen and vitamins to facilitate a healthy fermentation. A low nutrient wine will result in a poorer wine with sluggish fermentation.

Sugar: Additional sugar in the form of corn or cane sugar is often needed for fruit wines to boost the alcohol content and balance the acidity. Other sugars can be used such as honey for meads.

For a more in-depth review of the various chemicals and additives used in fruit winemaking, including details on usage rates and benefits, see this article.

Racking & Conditioning Homemade Wine

Racking and bottling wine is an important part of the winemaking process:

Racking involves transferring the wine from one container to another, leaving the sediment behind. This helps clarify the wine. You can rack the wine multiple times during ageing, but we want to minimise the amount if we can. Your fruit wine recipe will state roughly when and how often to rack the wine.

To rack your wine:

Sanitise all equipment like siphon tubing, racking cane, containers, and bottling wand.
Siphon the wine from the current container into a clean, sanitised container. Leave the sediment behind.
Use a racking cane to reduce splashing. For clear wines, rack from the bottom up to avoid disturbing the sediment.

Fruit wine typically needs several months to a year of conditioning and clearing after fermentation is complete. During this time, yeast cells and solids settle out of the wine, producing a clearer final product.

The length of conditioning time depends on the type of wine. Red wines generally require 6 months to 2 years while whites typically need 3 to 6 months.

By racking the wine periodically during this conditioning phase, you accelerate the clarification process and improve the final quality of the wine.

Bottling Fruit Wine

After fermentation is complete and the wine is crystal clear and conditioned, it’s time to bottle your homemade wine. Follow these steps:

1. Sanitise all equipment, bottle and corks thoroughly with no-rinse sanitiser.

2. Stabilise the wine (optional). For long-term stability, add potassium sorbate to prevent refermentation. Mix the potassium sorbate in a small amount of the wine, then stir into the carboy.

3. Backsweeten the wine if desired (you will need to stabilise the wine for this). To make a semi-sweet or sweet fruit wine, determine how much residual sugar you want by adding a small amount of sugar to a sample and calculate how much sugar is needed. Dissolve the sugar in some of the wine to avoid clumping, then stir into the carboy. A full guide to back sweetening can be found here.

4. Rack the wine into a clean vessel to leave behind any sediment.

5. Attach the bottling wand and bottle the wine. Leave 1-2 inches of headspace.

6. Cork or cap the bottles immediately. Store the bottles on their sides for a minimum of 2 – 3 months. The longer, the better.

Stabilisation prevents refermentation that could cause the wine to become fizzy particularly if you are back-sweetening the wine. Potassium sorbate stops the yeast from reproducing so the level of sugar remains stable.

Back sweetening allows you to achieve the perfect balance of sweetness and acidity for your palate. The amount of residual sugar also impacts the wine’s mouthfeel and flavour.

So when bottling your fruit wine, take the time to sample it, stabilise and backsweeten as needed. These simple steps will transform your wine into something that is perfect for your palate.

The bottling process marks the transition of your wine into its final stage. With a little patience and care, you’ll soon be celebrating your work with a glass of your very own homemade fruit wine!

Fruit Wine Recipes

This is the bit you have been waiting for. From classic favourites to more adventurous vegetable wines, these recipes will guide you through crafting your own unique fruit wines at home with your own fruits.

Whether you’re seeking a crisp and refreshing summer sipper, a bold and robust winter warmer, or a unique gift for a special occasion, the following fruit wine recipes provide a diverse range of options to suit every palate.

Lemon Wine Recipe – Fresh & Fragrant

Lemon wine brings to mind a drink that is refreshing and perfect to sip on...

Pomegranate Wine Recipe – Bright, Crisp Red Wine

Pomegranate is a peculiar fruit and when I was thinking about making a pomegranate wine...

Rosehip Wine Recipe – Wild, Delicate Rose Wine

Rosehips are the fruit of the rose plant and although they are bright red and...

Mango Wine Recipe – Tropical & Golden Wine

Mango is one of my favourite fruits. I love that tropical, sweet, juicy flavour and...

Quince Wine Recipe – Bright, Refreshing White Wine

Quince is not a great looking fruit, looking like a lumpy apple, pear hybrid. It...

Kiwi Wine Recipe – Fruity, Tropical White Wine

Kiwi fruit is surprisingly inexpensive and they are available year-round so they make a great...

Watermelon Wine Recipe – Fresh, Fruity & Refreshing

A watermelon wine is a tricky balancing act. You need to balance the delicate flavour...

Carrot Wine Recipe – Light & Delicate Root Wine

I know vegetable wines have a severe image problem but when you try this carrot...

Cranberry Wine Recipe – Bright And Fruity

Cranberries are tart, sour and rarely eaten raw, however, fresh cranberries when in season or...

Beetroot Wine Recipe

Beetroot wine is not as peculiar as it may sound. I think a lot of...

Parsnip Wine Recipe – Complex & Sherry-like White Wine

Out of all the country style wines parsnip wine is the one I had put...

Apricot Wine Recipe – Summery Pink/White wine

Apricots can either be a complete joy to eat or a little disappointing. It really...

Making A Braggot – Basic Braggot Recipe

Beer and mead. These two drinks are as old as history itself. Wherever there are...

Peach Wine Recipe – Summer In A Glass

If you are looking to make a sweetly scented, summery tasting wine then this peach...

Zesty Orange Wine Recipe

Orange wine is unique. Maybe not as popular as some of the other fruit wines...

Pineapple Wine Recipe – Tropical Tasting Wine

Pineapple is a tropical fruit but even so, it is available year-round in many places...

Blackcurrant Wine Recipe – Fruity, Dry Red

Blackcurrants are known as the “forgotten fruit” and it is easy to see why when...

Blackberry Wine Recipe – Juicy, Full Bodied Red

Blackberry wine is the first fruit wine I ever made. It is an easy choice...

Dandelion Wine Recipe – A Taste Of Sunshine

The much-maligned Dandelion may be a source of pain to many gardeners but to winemakers...

Raisin Wine Recipe – A Wine You Can Make Year Round

Dried fruits are great for making wine, especially when the winter comes around and fresh...

Cherry Wine Recipe – A Full Flavoured Red

Cherries make wonderful fruit wine with a great depth of flavour. Out of all the...

Banana Wine Recipe – A Wine You Need To Try For Yourself

Banana wine might sound odd, believe me, I was unsure of how this wine recipe...

Apple Wine Recipe – Simple & Rich Apple Wine

Apples are one of the fruits that can be easily gathered around the beginning of...

Elderberry Wine Recipe – A King Among Fruit Wines

Elderberries are one of the UK best fruits for making wine. Often referred to as...

Damson Wine Recipe – Rich & Perfect For Aging

Damsons or the Damson plum as the name suggests are a close relative to the...

Gooseberry Wine Recipe – Fantastic White Wine

Gooseberries may not be one of the cool kids in the world of berries. Often...

Simple & Easy Plum Wine Recipe

Plum wine is one of my favourites. Plums come in many different forms, sharp, sweet...

Elderflower Wine Recipe – Light To Medium Bodied

Elderflower wine has one of those flavours that is so distinct you cannot really compare...

Rhubarb Wine Recipe – How to Make A Delicious Rhubarb Wine

Rhubarb wine is actually a vegetable wine, although, rhubarb is a vegetable that is almost...

Blueberry Wine Recipe – Full-Bodied and Beginner Friendly

This blueberry wine recipe is the perfect choice for the beginning winemaker, it also produces...

Strawberry Wine Recipe: The Only Recipe You’ll Ever Need

Strawberries are one of my favourite fruits, how can you capture that taste in a...

Fiery Medium Ginger Wine Recipe

This Ginger wine recipe was one of the very first country wine recipes I ever...

Simple & Delicious Pear Wine Recipe

Country wines tend to be really simple to make and this Pear wine recipe is...

The post Homemade Wine: How To Make Wine From Any Fruit, Vegetable or Flower appeared first on Home Brew Answers.

Clearing a Hazy Or Cloudy Wine

Neil — Wed, 19 Oct 2022 09:05:19 +0000

It can definitely be frustrating to spend time making wine, waiting months for it to ferment and condition only for it to be hazy or cloudy.

A slight haze in wine isn’t a major problem but it can be annoying. Certain wines may be more prone to having a haze or cloudiness so what can we do about it?

In this article, we will cover what to make sure our wines ferment with much less chance of forming a haze and also how to clear a cloudy or hazy wine if it just won’t clear.

Clear Your Wine Starting With The Basics

All of the recipes here on Home Brew Answers suggest the use of pectic enzymes. Particularly with fruit and floral wines you are introducing pectin which is present in all fruit, vegetables, and plants to some degree.

Pectin is what causes jam to set and form a gel. When there is a lot of pectin in wine it will cause a haze. Pectin haze won’t affect the flavour of wine but it will cause a haze or if there is a lot of pectin such as an apple wine it will be quite cloudy.

Pectic enzymes will break down the pectin which will prevent a haze from forming and has the added benefit of breaking down the fruit you are fermenting which will lead to better extraction.

Add pectic enzymes at the start of each wine fermentation.
Add pectic enzyme at any point of the fermentation to clear a pectin haze if it was not added at the start of fermentation.

If you still have a haze in the fermented wine then it may be caused by something else.

Testing For Pectin Haze

If you have used pectic enzyme but still have haze in the finished wine that you think is caused by pectin then you can perform a simple test.

To test for residual pectin you will need methylated spirit or methanol.

Add a 50ml sample of the wine to 200ml of methylated spirit. If a powdery substance appears in the wine then there is residual pectin in the wine.

If there is residual pectin, treat the wine with further pectic enzyme a little at a time until the haze subsides.

Excess Starch Causing Cloudy Wine

The next most common cause of hazy or cloudiness in wine is starch in solution.

Starches are present in vegetables and fruits and unlike simple sugars aren’t broken down by yeast.

If there is excess starch in your wine and it is causing a haze then the simplest way to deal with it is by adding an enzyme called amylase.

Amylase is an enzyme that breaks down complex carbohydrates into simple sugars. If you have ever brewed beer before you may be familiar with amylase enzymes as these are present in the malted barley and convert the starch or carbohydrates in the grain into fermentable sugars.

If you are making wine with ingredients you know are high in starch then treat the wine with amylase.

Follow the directions that come with the amylase enzyme and add small amounts, wait 1 or 2 hours for signs of clearing before adding small amounts more until the wine is clear.

Yeast In Suspension

After conditioning, you will be aware that yeast will begin settling out. After racking you will likely end up with a slightly hazier wine due to picking up some of the yeast lees and they will stay in suspension for a week or two.

In most cases, time will ensure yeast settle and flocculate but sometimes less flocculant yeast strains will cast a haze for a long time.

If you want to speed up flocculation a two-part fining will be adequate before stabilizing and bottling. This page on wine finings should give you some more information on using wine finings and how to go about it.

Protein Haze

Protein in your wine can cause issues with clearing and is more noticeable according to the temperature of your wine.

If you notice your wine takes on a haze, particularly at lower temperatures, protein is likely to be the cause.

If this is the case then a two-part fining solution like that described above is your best option.

Other Causes Of Haze

If your haze problems are not caused by one of the above issues then the most likely culprit is going to be biological. Wild yeasts and microorganisms that cause spoiling in wine can also be the cause of unwanted haze.

Unfortunately, there is not much you can do about the causes of biological contamination and may find a sample of the wine is unpalatable. If you think you have a spoiled wine the best thing to do it wait, try samples and if there are no improvements over a longer time period it may be that the wine is destined for the drain.

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Champagne Yeast – A Complete Guide

Neil — Mon, 27 Jun 2022 13:40:19 +0000

If you have ever made a fruit, floral or vegetable wine yourself you will probably be familiar with the term “champagne yeast”. You are probably thinking, why use champagne yeast, what is champagne yeast and why is it any different to other yeast strains.

Champagne yeast has some very useful attributes that make it perfect for home wine making and not just for making champagne. In this article, we will cover just what champagne yeast is and why it is recommended so often for making country wines.

What Is Champagne Yeast?

Champagne yeast is a strain of wine yeast, saccharomyces cerevisiae. In fact, all the most commonly used strains of wine yeast are either the species saccharomyces cerevisiae, saccharomyces bayanus or a combination, although there are some other species used in wine making.

Different strains of wine yeast, although being the same species exhibit different qualities and traits which affect their behaviour and in turn how the wine turns out.

As the name suggests Champagne yeast is used in the production of sparkling wines. The qualities of Champagne yeast are that they are very neutral, producing only small amounts of discernable flavours. They also tolerate high levels of alcohol and produce large amounts of tiny bubbles.

Why Is Champagne Yeast Recommended So Often?

The reason why Champagne yeast is so frequently recommended, including on this website, is because it has some very helpful traits.

In particular, these traits are really useful for making fruit, vegetable and floral wines where you want to turn out great wine with the minimum amount of fuss and intervention. So let’s take a look at some of the things that make Champagne yeast so useful for home winemakers.

Fermentation Temperature Range

The optimum temperature range for most champagne yeasts is quite wide and really forgiving.

Fermentation temperature can affect how the finished wine is going to taste. Fermenting a wine outside of the optimum fermentation temperature range can produce a wine with off flavours and undesirable characteristics.

Lalvin EC-1118 has a fermentation temperature of 10-30°C (50-86°F). This is one of the widest fermentation ranges for any type of wine yeast and means no matter what sort of environment you are fermenting in you are within the desired range.

This means that as long as you try and keep your fermentation temperature stable without too many fluctuations you don’t need to rely on temperature control for your wine fermentation.

Excellent Fermenter

One of the biggest benefits of champagne yeast is that the fermentation is incredibly strong even in wine musts where there is a lack of nutrients for the yeast or high alcohol content.

Fruit, vegetable and floral wines all need nutrients added, unlike grape wines the is a lack of nutrition for the yeast itself within the ingredients of most country wines.

Without enough yeast nutrients in the wine, the yeast will become stressed, fail to produce enough healthy yeast cells or even stop fermenting the wine halfway through leaving the fermentation unfinished.

To combat this, winemakers add yeast nutrients that are available as an additive and select yeast strains that are robust enough to flourish even when nutrients are lacking.

Champagne yeast is one of the strains that ferment really well in wine musts that other strains would really struggle.

Produces Clear Wines Quickly

When you start making wines there is always that feeling that they won’t ever clear properly. This is especially noticeable with wines like banana wine that look really opaque.

Different yeast strains have different tendencies for flocculation and some really powdery yeast seem to always leave a haze months after settling out.

Champagne yeast on the other hand ferments really fast and flocculates really quickly and wine can be clear within a month of starting fermentation. Different fruit wines will still need pectic enzyme as pectin haze is not caused by yeast but if you want a fast turnaround and to avoid using finings then champagne yeast is the way to go.

Produces Dry Wines

Champagne yeast ferments so well even with less than ideal conditions that you can always produce dry wines. You may not prefer dry wines yourself but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t use champagne yeast.

With a lot of fruit wines, you are adding nutrients and lots of simple sugars and if your yeast doesn’t ferment those sugars completely you are left with residual sweetness in the wine. This is fine if you like sweeter wines but there is a lack of control.

What Are The Champagne Yeast Strains?

The commercial examples of champagne yeast are sold by a few yeast producers but the most common example is

Lalvin EC-1118

Probably the most used and widely known wine yeast there is. Lalvin EC-1118 is recommended for nearly any fruit wine because it really is a workhorse of a yeast strain.

EC-1118 is an all-rounder and in fruit wines that may be low in nutrients and high in simple sugars, it will always give a good, quick and strong fermentation. It tolerates a high level of alcohol and will ferment really dry.

Mangrove Jack’s SN9

Mangrove Jack’s has a wine yeast very similar to Lalvin EC-1118 and that is SN9.

It has the same alcohol tolerance as Lalvin yeast and is recommended for country wines and vegetable wines. Both these commercial strains a neutral-tasting and will ferment at a really wide range of temperatures.

Is Champagne Yeast The Best Option For Your Wines?

Champagne yeast is probably the best option for making country wines especially when you are first starting out winemaking or only making wine a few times a year.

The attributes of having a wide fermentation temperature range, high alcohol tolerance, neutral flavour profile and being a fast fermenter in low nutrient conditions is perfect for fruit, vegetable and floral wines.

You can prepare your must, sprinkle in a sachet of champagne yeast and not have to worry too much about stuck fermentation, off flavours and temperature control compared to using other yeast strains.

There are, however, many more wine yeast varieties to choose from. Wine yeasts that have unique flavour profiles and that are suited for different types of wine and grape varietals and opens up a whole range of options for creating a unique wine or mead.

It is worth exploring different yeast varieties if you are confident in setting up the right conditions for that particular yeast strain. Some yeast strains prefer cooler temperatures so you need to make sure you are fermenting your wine at that particular temperature range. Some need plenty of nutrition which means you may opt for staggered nutrient additions to provide this environment.

The reason for using champagne yeast is because it produces great wines with the minimum amount of fuss and problems. If you want to add a new dimension to your wines then that is the time to start thinking about different yeast varieties.

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Rosehip Wine Recipe – Wild, Delicate Rose Wine

Neil — Thu, 20 Jan 2022 11:28:33 +0000

Rosehips are the fruit of the rose plant and although they are bright red and full of hairy pips which need to be removed they are edible (or drinkable). Rosehip wine is one of the best country wines especially in the range of fruits that make a lighter coloured wine.

What Are Rosehips?

Rosehips, which are also referred to as rose haws are the fruit of the rose plant. If you grow roses you will notice the bulbous, oval hips that form after the bush flowers. Ornamental roses are often selected for not just the flower but the rosehips which may be larger than usual or uniquely coloured.

Rosehips on wild roses or dog roses are bright red and oval-shaped and these can be found in hedgerows, scrubland and growing freely in wild spaces.

I live in an area where I can easily pick enough wild growing rose hips to make wine but if you don’t you can still make the wine with dried rosehips that you can buy online or from health food shops.

When To Pick Rosehips

You want to wait to the rosehips are peaking in ripeness. They should be bright red or deep orange, if they aren’t then they aren’t ripe enough.

They should also be supple with a little give, if you wait till after the first frost they may be too soft and mushy.

What To Expect From Rosehip Wine?

Rosehip wine is a pinkish, amber colour and has quite a lot of tannin. I like to sweeten the finished wine slightly and you get a fuller, rounder flavour that doesn’t need to be conditioned for years before drinking.

Roses are part of the same family as apples and it is fair to say that rosehip wine is reminiscent of apple wine, although slightly more delicate. There is not so much of the scent of rose but a crispness that is quite nice.

Take Care When Picking Rosehips

If you are picking the rosehips yourself you first need to take care that you have correctly identified them. I like to keep an eye out early in the year to see when the roses are in flower and note down the locations of good rose bushes.

The other thing you need to be aware of is if the roses have been treated for any reason. In hedgerows and wild areas this is not a problem but in parks, the plants are sometimes treated with pesticides so these should be avoided.

Preparing Rose Hips To Make Wine

The easiest way to prepare rose hips for making wine is to take the simplest steps.

I like to remove the woody end of the rosehip and as much as the stalk as possible. Once this is done give all the hips a good rinse and remove any mushy or bad rose hips.

Dry them off and then freeze all of the rosehip. Freezing will break down the structure of the rosehips and allow the wine yeast to ferment them and break down the hips even further.

With regards to the seeds inside the rosehip, some suggest removing them, others not. I keep them whole, they will be removed after primary fermentation anyway and they provide a nice amount of tannins that give the wine body.

Using Dried Rosehips To Make Wine

You may choose to substitute dried rosehips for some or all of the fruit if you cannot find a wild-growing rosehip.

If you want to use dried rosehips you need to use approximately a quarter of the weight in dried hips compared to fresh ones. Instead of using 1000g of fresh hips you would use 250g of dried rosehip.

What You’ll Need To Make Rosehip Wine – Makes 1 gallon / 4.5 litres

Large Stock Pot
Small Fermenting Bucket
Demijohn
Syphon
Fine Straining Bag
Potato Masher
Airlock & Bung

Rosehip Wine Ingredients

1kg Rosehips (fresh) or 250g Dried rosehips
4.5 litres Water
1.1kg Sugar
1/2 tsp Acid Blend
1 tsp Pectic Enzyme
1 tsp Yeast Nutrient
1 Campden Tablet
1 Sachet Wine Yeast (Lallemand EC-1118 is a good choice but experiment with others)

To start the rosehip wine take the thawed rosehips and place them in the straining bag at the bottom of the sanitised fermenter. Use a masher to press the rosehips and start to break them up. Secure the straining bag to contain the rosehips.

If you are using dried rosehips, secure them in the straining bag.

In the large stockpot, heat half of the water and add all the sugar. Bring to a boil whilst stirring to dissolve all the sugar. Simmer for a few minutes before pouring the boiling water over the fruit in the fermenting vessel.

Add the remaining water to bring the temperature down, add the Campden tablet and then cover and let it sit for 24 hours.

The following day, add the pectic enzyme, acid, yeast nutrient and stir with a sanitised spoon. Take a hydrometer reading to work out the starting gravity. Add the yeast by sprinkling onto the surface of the wine must, then cover and attach an airlock to the lid.

After a week remove the straining bag and let it drain as much liquid as possible. Cover the fermenter again and allow to settle for 1 or 2 days.

After a couple of days rack the rosehip wine to a sanitised demijohn. Seal with a bung and airlock. Allow to condition in the demijohn for at least three months by which time the wine will have cleared or begun to clear. If any sediment builds up, rack the wine to a clean demijohn one or two times. Take a hydrometer reading if you want to accurately calculate the ABV

After 3 months or up to 6 months, you can bottle the wine. If you want to back sweeten the wine which I like to do read this guide on stabilising and back sweetening. Bottle the wine and leave for as long as you can bear. At least another 3 – 6 months but the wine will peak after a year.

The post Rosehip Wine Recipe – Wild, Delicate Rose Wine appeared first on Home Brew Answers.

Yeast Attenuation – A Complete Guide

Neil — Thu, 16 Dec 2021 09:34:06 +0000

Yeast attenuation is a measure of how much of the sugar in a beer wort or wine must a yeast will ferment.

In this article, we will take a look at what attenuation actually means, how to measure it and why we should think about the attenuation of the yeast we select.

The Difference Between High & Low Attenuation

When you look at fact sheets and yeast packages they typically state the attenuation as high, medium, or low attenuation.

High attenuating yeast indicates that the particular strain ferments more of the sugars available in a wort relative to other yeast strains. This results in a drier finish in the finished beer.

A low attenuating yeast strain ferments less of the sugars and in turn leaves the finished drink slightly sweeter.

Attenuation is also expressed as a percentage and is easy to calculate according to the amount of sugar in the wort before and after fermentation.

100% attenuation would indicate that all the sugar available to the yeast have been converted to alcohol.
50% attenuation would tell us that half of the sugars in the wort or must have been fermented by the yeast leaving half in the finished beer or wine.
75% attenuation would tell us that three quarters of the sugar in the wort have been fermented by the yeast

How To Measure Attenuation

The attenuation that we homebrewers measure is calculated by taking hydrometer readings before and after fermentation.

Before fermentation, we have the original gravity which measures the density of wort or must in comparison to pure water. The higher the amount of sugar the higher the density of the liquid.

After fermentation, the yeast has converted a certain amount of those sugars into alcohol and carbon dioxide. The decrease in sugar and increase in alcohol reduces the density of the liquid and the hydrometer reading is taken telling us the final gravity.

Once we have the original gravity and the final gravity we can use these two measurements to calculate the apparent attenuation with the following formula:

Apparent Attenuation = (OG – FG)/OG

An example of this calculation in the case for a typical pale ale at a gravity of 1.048 might be the following:

Apparent Attenuation = (48 – 10) / 48 = 79%

The original gravity of the pale ale is 1.048 and the final gravity is 1.010. We take the final gravity from the original gravity and then divide the result by the original gravity to express the result as a percentage which in this case is 79%

This ABV Calculator will show you the apparent attenuation:

What Is Meant By Apparent Attenuation

You may have noticed the term apparent attenuation used above. The attenuation that is being measured using a hydrometer isn’t really the exact attenuation. The reason for this is because of the way a hydrometer works

A hydrometer measures density compared to pure water which is indicated by a reading of 1.000.

When sugar is added in the form of wort or must the density changes make the hydrometer float higher.

After fermentation, we have less sugar but also an increase in alcohol. Alcohol has a lower density than pure water so we are not really just measuring the reduction in sugars but also the increase in alcohol.

The attenuation here is called the apparent attenuation because this is what we are able to read with a hydrometer.

All home brewers and yeast strains detail the apparent attenuation because without a dedicated laboratory there is no way for most brewers to measure the exact attenuation.

Why Do We Need To Know The Attenuation?

The real reason to take notice of the attenuation is that it is going to impact the body, sweetness, and flavour of a beer or wine.

If you brew a high ABV beer that you have fermented with a low attenuating yeast it may end up far too sweet and cloying.
If you intend to make a sweet wine and ferment with a high attenuating yeast strain it will result in a wine that is too dry.

Any yeast strain that you buy will detail the level of attenuation. Most manufacturers will list the attenuation as either high, medium or low.

When you come to select the yeast strain you use for a particular brew you need to make the decision as to what degree of attenuation is suitable for the particular style of beer or wine you are making.

Other Factors That Can Affect The Attenuation

The degree of attenuation for a particular yeast is a primary factor in the degree of fermentability but there are also other variables that could alter the finished beer or wine.

Yeast viability and health will also play a role in fermentation. If you pitch too little yeast or yeast that has been stored longer then the fermentation will be sluggish and you may not achieve the degree of attenuation that is listed for a particular yeast strain.

When making beer you may adjust mashing temperatures and this will affect the fermentability of the resulting wort.

Poor must of wort fermentability can also be the result of a lack of yeast nutrients. This is particularly a problem in fruit winemaking or mead making where it is really important to add yeast nutrients in order to get good fermentability.

The post Yeast Attenuation – A Complete Guide appeared first on Home Brew Answers.

Mango Wine Recipe – Tropical & Golden Wine

Neil — Tue, 28 Sep 2021 13:00:01 +0000

Mango is one of my favourite fruits. I love that tropical, sweet, juicy flavour and although I have used it in beer and mead I have hadn’t made a mango wine until recently.

Mango wine is bright, golden yellow and has that tropical flavour unique to mango.

You might be thinking about having to deal with cutting up all that fruit and removing stones which you will have to if you use fresh mango but I have a secret … you can make this wine with tinned mango puree and it is just as nice.

I live in the UK so fresh mangos aren’t always that great. They are not fully ripe, can be fibrous and piney. If you can get nice, fresh mango then this is great for making wine. If not you may be better off using either frozen or tinned mango.

Using Fresh Or Canned Mango

The beauty of using mango in a wine is that it can really be made year-round by using canned / tinned mango puree that is often sweeter and tastier than using fresh mango.

When we make a wine we want the fruit to be in peak ripeness so the sugar is at its highest point. Depending on where you live mango may have to be imported a long way and spend time in transit so it is not necessarily that ripe when you get it.

Mango will ripen after being picked so you do have an opportunity of using fresh fruit, keeping it all till it ripens and is nice and sweet before making wine. I have made this mango wine with both fresh mango and canned mango puree and they both turn out equally good so depending on where you live you may find it easier and cheaper to use mango puree.

Using Fresh Mango To Make Wine

To use fresh mango in this wine you will need around 1 kilo of fruit after the stones and skin has been removed. 1 kilo of mangos will be around 7 or 8 fruits.

To prepare the mango for making wine you will need to remove the stone. As the stone is flat I find the easiest way to do this is as follow:

Slice each side of the stem and as closely around the stone as possible
Take each side and score the flesh into small squares and then push this flat and cut the flesh away from the skin.
Run a knife around the stone to remove this small amount of mango and slice away the skin.

You will have to do this for all the fruit so by the time you have finished you will get pretty good at it. If this sounds like too much hard work then you might want to consider using canned mango puree.

Using Canned Mango Puree

When using canned mango you just need to make sure that what you are buying is free from preservatives. Usually, canned mango will have been sweetened and have citric acid added to them and this is fine to use, the acid is what preserves the mango and we actually need acid in the wine.

In my experience, you will be able to find two types of canned mango puree and these will be either Kesar mango or Alphonso mango. I like to use alphonso mango puree as this has a bold, sweet flavour and Kesar has a milder more delicate flavour. You can use either variety if only one is available in your area.

The beauty of using canned mango puree is you can simply open the can and start making the mango wine right away, there is no prep needed.

What You’ll Need To Make Mango Wine – Makes 1 gallon / 4.5 litres

Large Stock Pot
Small Fermenting Bucket
Demijohn
Syphon
Fine Straining Bag
Potato Masher
Airlock & Bung

Mango Wine Ingredients

1kg Mango (fresh or canned)
4 litres Water
900g Sugar
1/4 tsp Wine Tannin
1 tsp Acid Blend
1/2 tsp Pectic Enzyme
1 tsp Yeast Nutrient
1 Campden Tablet
1 Sachet Yeast (Lallemand EC-1118 is a good choice but experiment with others)

Method

If you are using fresh mango you will need to prepare the fruit. Remove the stone and skin and cut the flesh into small chunks (see the information above for a more detailed guide to cutting up a mango)

Add half the water to a large pan along with the sugar and start heating. Bring the water to a boil and stir to dissolve all the sugar. Simmer for a few minutes and then remove from the heat.

In a sanitised fermentation bucket place the straining bag around the opening. Add the mango either straight from the can if using canned mango or the chunks you have cut.

Secure the bag and mash the fruit with the masher if you are using fresh fruit. If you are using mango puree you’ll just need to secure the bag.

Pour the sugar solution over the mango and give everything a swirl to mix it up. Add the remaining half of the water and stir once or twice to drop the temperature down.

Add the acid, tannin, yeast nutrient and the Campden tablet, mix and then cover with the lid and airlock. Take a hydrometer reading at this point should you wish to monitor the alcohol content and fermentation progress. Leave overnight.

After at least 12 hours add the pectose, mix and then add the yeast by sprinkling onto the surface of the must. Cover the fermenter with the lid and airlock and await fermentation.

Allow fermentation to start and you should begin to notice bubbles rising from the airlock. Allow fermentation to continue for roughly seven days by which point airlock activity will subside or even stop.

After 7 days remove the bag from the fermenter and allow it to drip without squeezing. The mango puree bag may contain very little fruit depending on how smooth the puree was. Discard the leftover fruit and cover the fermenter with a lid and airlock for a further 2 – 3 days to settle.

After 2 or 3 days rack the wine to a clean, sanitised demijohn/carboy and fix a bung and airlock. It is now time for the mango wine to condition and settle. Put the demijohn somewhere out of the way and leave it for a month or so after this amount of time the wine will begin to clear and can be racked to another demijohn if necessary.

Leave the mango wine to condition for around 2 – 3 months if possible. At this point, it should be clear and ready for bottling. Take a sample and consider whether it needs back sweetening depending on how you like your wines.

Bottle and set the bottles aside for a month or two. Mango wine can be drunk relatively young and I find it doesn’t need as much time as other wines to condition and age.

The post Mango Wine Recipe – Tropical & Golden Wine appeared first on Home Brew Answers.

Complete Guide To Wine Yeast

Neil — Sat, 02 Jan 2021 11:11:23 +0000

The amount of wine yeast strains available to homebrewers is vast and getting bigger all the time.

Choosing a wine yeast for your next wine now means looking through the offerings of 3 or 4 different yeast producers then reading the specifications and descriptions.

To help you understand different yeast strains and varieties we have compiled a list of wine yeasts from all the large yeast labs and summarised their best uses and characteristics.

The Role Of Yeast In Wine

Choosing the right yeast for the type of wine being produced has a big effect.

Not only is there the type of wine being made whether it is red, white or rose but also the fermentation environment, tannins, acidity and flavour of the must that will interplay with the yeast.

Factors such as the following will need considering when selecting a yeast.

Alcohol tolerance

This is the level to which a yeast strain can ferment sugars into alcohol before reaching a limit. Certain strains have higher tolerances than others so it is important when selecting a wine yeast strain to ensure the level of alcohol in the finished wine doesn’t surpass the tolerance of the yeast.

Factors such as nutrients, temperature, rehydration, yeast health and viability will also affect the tolerance of the yeast to the level of alcohol so there can be some variation in a particular yeast strains tolerance.

Fermentation temperature range

The fermentation range of a yeast strain determines the temperature at which the yeast will ferment the wine without stalling or becoming stressed. If the wine fermentation is too cold the yeast will be sluggish or not ferment the sugars at all. Too higher temperatures and the yeast will become stressed and produce undesirable flavours in the wine.

Within the temperature range of a given yeast strain, there can be some variables that will change. For example, fruity flavours may be more pronounced at the higher end of the temperature range of a particular strain. This can be considered when selecting a wine yeast and the temperature the wine fermentation is carried out at.

Attenuation

The attenuation of yeast determines the percentage of sugars a yeast strain is able to ferment. 80% attenuation would indicate 80% of the available sugars will be fermented by the yeast. This will indicate how much residual sugar is left in the wine when the yeast have completed a fermentation. Different yeast strains will have variable levels of attenuation. If you are making a sweeter wine then you will want to select a wine yeast that has a lower attenuation so there is some residual sweetness in the finished wine.

The Best Wine Yeast Strains

Lalvin EC-1118 Champagne Yeast: From Lallemand is probably the most used and forgiving all-rounder yeast is EC-1118. This particular yeast is most often recommended for fruit wines because it is a workhorse and will cope with a wide range of conditions and lack of nutrients.

Alcohol tolerance:
Temperature range:

Lalvin RC212 Burgundy Yeast: Lalvin RC212 is a yeast strain isolated in the Burgundy region ideally suited for red wines with structure, colour and tannins. RC212 yeast cells only absorb a limited amount of poly[henols the colour of the finished wine is darker and has a higher tannin level. Ferments moderately quickly and a good choice for wines with riper berry and spicy character.

Alcohol tolerance: 16% ABV
Temperature range: 20°C – 30°C (68°F – 86°F)

Lalvin 71B: 71B is a yeast strain that is good for rounding out high acid wines. Softening the profile of the wine by metabolizing malic acid by up to 30%. Lalvin 71B will enhance aromatic qualities of fruit and floral wine and is ideal for making white or semi-sweet blush wines that have residual sugar content.

Alcohol tolerance: up to 14% ABV
Temperature range: 15°C to 30°C

Lalvin D47: D47 is a wine yeast isolated from the Cote Du Rhone region. This particular strain prefers slightly cooler fermentation temperatures starting around 17 – 20°C and is highly suited for the production of white wines such as Chardonnay. Lalvin D47 will accentuate fruits, tropical and citrus notes and will produce a rounder wine with a soft palate.

Alcohol tolerance: 15% ABV
Temperature range: 15-30°C (59-86°F)

Lalvin K1V-1116 Montpellier Yeast: K1V-V1116 is a wine yeast suited to floral wines and does well in styles such as Chenin Blanc or Sauvignon Blanc. When fermented at temperatures below 16°C K1V-1116 will produce floral esters as long as nutrient requirements are in the must. This particular yeast strain is highly suited to difficult fermentations such as fruit wine musts that are cooler, lacking nutrients and fatty acids.

Alcohol tolerance: 18% ABV
Fermentation temperature: 10°C – 35°C (50°F – 95°F)

Mangrove Jack SN9: SN9 by Mangrove jack is an ideal choice for floral wines or country wines with a lower proportion of fruit as it will retain a structure in the wine. It is also tolerant of a wide range of temperatures and must conditions where nutrients may be lacking. Of all the mangrove jack yeast strains SN9 is the fastest to clear and flocculate.

Alcohol tolerance: up to 18% ABV
Temperature range: 14 – 28°C (57 – 82°F)

Mangrove Jack R56: R56 is a wine yeast strain ideally suited for fermenting full-flavored red wines. Enhancing body, mouthfeel and complexity Mangrove Jack R56 suits old world styles and works in wine styles such as Malbec, Merlot and Nebbiolo. Suits dark fruit wines such as blackberry, plum and damson wines and ages well.

Alcohol tolerance: 15% ABV
Temperature range: 18 – 28°C (64 – 82°F)

Mangrove Jack VR21

VR21 is a good strain for all styles of red wine and will produce balanced wines. Mainly suited for medium ABV wines with a neutral palate but still preserving the fruit flavour and aroma qualities. Good for Syrah, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Shiraz.

Alcohol tolerance: up to 15% ABV
Temperature range: 18°C – 28°C (64°F – 82°F)

Mangrove Jack MA33: Similar to Lalvin 71B this yeast strain by Mangrove Jack is good for reducing acid in white and rose wines. Fermentation will leave some residual sugars in the finished wines so MA33 is ideally suited to sweeter wines that have fresh and fruity flavour profiles. Good for wines that are intended to be served young with fast turnarounds.

Alcohol tolerance: 14% ABV
Temperature range: 18 – 28°C (64 – 82°F)

Mangrove Jack CR51: CR51 is a wine yeast suitable for light, refreshing and fruity red wines. It produces smooth and light red wines and is particularly useful for making wines that are consumed quickly or are relatively young. CR51 is a moderately fast fermenter and will produce wines in the style of Pinot Noir or Gamay.

Alcohol tolerance: 13% ABV
Temperature range: 16°C – 24°C (61°F – 75°F)

Mangrove Jack CY17: This white wine strain promotes body and structure in medium to sweet wines. Enhances fruity and bold character from fruit and floral ingredients and is also good for rose or blush wines. Think Sauvignon blanc, Zinfandel and sweet dessert wines.

Alcohol tolerance: 14% ABV
Temperature range: 16°C – 24°C (61°F – 75°F)

Mangrove Jack AW4: AW4 is a wine yeast that is ideal for making German style white or rose wines. It is a yeast that enhances aromatic qualities of grapes or fruits and gives a nice spiciness in the finished wine. Use in wine styles like Gewurztraminer or Riesling for a winning combination

Alcohol tolerance: 14% ABV
Temperature range: 16°C – 24°C (61°F – 75°F)

Mangrove Jack CL23: CL23 is a wine yeast with a very high alcohol tolerance at 18% ABV. It displays a neutral sensory aroma in finished wines and is ideal for making sparkling wines as well as crisp white or rose wines. CL23 is quite tolerant of less than ideal conditions so is good for vegetable or fruit wines with lower nutrient musts.

Alcohol tolerance: 18% ABV
Temperature range: 14°C – 32°C (57°F – 90°F)

Mangrove Jack BV7: BV7 is a wine yeast that produces rich, full bodied white wines. The yeast will enhance fruit aromas and boost mouthfeel and structure in the wine. BV7 has a lower alcohol tolerance and is capable of producing dry or sweet white wines.

Alcohol tolerance: 13% ABV
Temperature range: 14°C – 28°C (57°F – 82°F)

Red Star Cote Des Blanc: Côte Des Blanc from Red Star, also known as Geisenheim Espernay is a wine yeast suitable for white and light red wines. It is a slower speed fermenter and needs temperature monitoring, at lower temperatures it will leave residual sugars in the wine so makes a good choice to fuller and sweeter wine varieties.

Alcohol tolerance: 13 – 14% ABV
Temperature range: 12°C – 24°C (53°F – 75°F).

Red Star Montrachet: Red Star Montrachet, also known as Premier Classique is a good all-purpose yeast that is suited to full-bodied red and white wines. A swift and strong fermenter as well as preserving tannins and colour. Montrachet is recommended for many fruit wines because of it’s all-purpose reputation.

Alcohol tolerance: 13% ABV
Temperature range: 12°C – 35 °C (54°F – 95 °F)

Red Star Pasteur Blanc (ex Pasteur Champagne): Pasteur blanc or Premier Blanc was formerly known as Pasteur Champagne but confusingly is not recommended for sparkling wine. Pasteur Blanc has a high alcohol tolerance at 15% ABV and a neutral flavour profile. Recommended for most dry white wine styles and fruit musts and will ferment fully leaving very little residual sugar.

Alcohol tolerance: 13 – 15% ABV
Temperature range: 15°C – 30°C (59°F – 86°F)

Red Star Pasteur Rouge: Red Star Pasteur Rouge or Premier Rouge is a strong fermenter, ideally suited to fermenting full-bodied reds. Encourages the development of fruit flavours and aromas in the Cabernet family. Pasteur Rouge is an ideal strain for Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel and will enhance the character of less robust fruit in red wines.

Used in country wines it is good for dark fruits such as plums, elderberries and blackberries.

Alcohol tolerance: up to 15% ABV
Temperature range: 17°C and 30°C (64°F to 86°F)

Red Star Premier Cuvee: Premier Cuvee also known as Prise de Mousse is one of the fastest fermenters from red star. Producing exceptional clean and neutral fermentation with a very high alcohol tolerance at 18% ABV. SUitable for fermenting white, red or sparkling wines and tolerant of less than ideal conditions.

Alcohol tolerance: 18% ABV
Temperature range: 8°C – 35°C (45°F – 95°F)

The post Complete Guide To Wine Yeast appeared first on Home Brew Answers.

Staggered Nutrient Additions For Mead & Country Wines

Neil — Sat, 13 Jun 2020 13:51:14 +0000

Yeast nutrients are really important in mead making and for making country wines (fruit, floral or vegetable wines other than grapes). Along with this when and how they are added can make a difference, staggered nutrient additions are beneficial for yeast health and reduce stress.

Mead and country wines are often high alcohol content and use simple sugars for fermentation. The problem with honey or simple sugars that might be used in country wines there is little nutrition especially nitrogen in the form of FAN (free amino nitrogen) but also other key compounds yeast need to thrive.

This lack of nutrients in mead along with the high gravities of most mead or wines means that mead or wine fermentations can have flaws or even be sluggish or not fully finish. Using yeast nutrients along with proper yeast pitching rates and knowing when to add them can make a big difference.

Yeast Nutrients For Mead & Country Wine Making

The nutrients and compounds that yeast cells need to grow, reproduce and thrive can be different according to what point in the fermentation they are.

Homebrewing retailers typically sell blends of nutrients that contain a whole range of building blocks yeast need in order to achieve healthy, stress-free fermentation.

Most products labelled yeast nutrient sold by homebrew retailers (in the UK at least) will contain a source of nitrogen, vitamins, yeast hulls that all contribute to yeast health and reproduction. The most important nutrient, nitrogen is usually diammonium phosphate.

In the recipes here on Home Brew Answers I recommend using yeast nutrient for all the meads and wine recipes.

You can go a step further than this when making mead or country wine by using a more rigorous approach to nutrient additions.

Rehydration Nutrients Like Go-Ferm Protect

If you are fermenting a mead or wine with dry yeast then you can consider using a rehydration agent.

A rehydration agent is a particular type of yeast micronutrient that is designed to be added to water that dry yeast rehydrates in. If you are using liquid yeast then a rehydration nutrient is not necessary.

Go-Ferm Protect produced by Lallemand is probably the most commonly available on the market and is designed for use in the wine industry to prevent poor fermentations and achieve strong fermentation in wine or mead musts that are lacking in nutrients, fatty acids and sterols.

Rehydration agents such as Go-Ferm do not contain nitrogen in the form of diammonium phosphate as this has an adverse effect on yeast health when they are rehydrating. This means that if you are using a rehydration nutrient you will still need to add a yeast nutrient with DAP to the wine or mead for fermentation.

How Much Go-Ferm To Add?

Dosage of Go-Ferm when rehydrating the dry yeast is recommended at the following rate:

1.25g of Go-Ferm per 1g of yeast.

Staggered Nutrient Additions

To really improve a mead or wine fermentation then when you add nutrients and the kind of nutrients you are adding is important.

A more commonly used method of adding nutrients is not to add them during set points of the fermentation rather than bombarding the yeast with nutrients at the very start of the growth phase of the yeast.

This staggered addition of yeast nutrients supplies yeast cells with the required nutrition usually at 3 or 4 points of the fermentation:

After 24 hours of pitching yeast
After 48 hours
After 72 hours
After 7 days

What Nutrient To Use For Staggered Nutrient Additions?

When it comes to the selection of a yeast nutrient for mead or wine musts that are lacking in nutrients my preferred choice is Fermaid O produced by Lallemand, the second choice would be Fermaid K.

Fermaid O For Staggered Nutrient Additions

Fermaid O is relatively new to the market and is a product that should be used in conjunction with Go-Ferm which provide key micronutrients.

Fermaid O provides an organic source of nitrogen in the form of autolyzed yeast hulls.

Rather than using diammonium phosphate (DAP) as a source of nitrogen the nitrogen is from an organic source.

It is recommended to use Go-Ferm protect when rehydrating the yeast in conjunction with Fermaid O to have a complete source of nutrients and micronutrients. It is also recommended to add Fermaid O in staggered doses, as detailed above.

How Much Fermaid O To Use?

The dosage of Fermaid O is recommended by Lallemand as follows:

Add 40 g/hL (3 1/2 lb/1000 gal) of Fermaid O, 20 g/hL at the end of the lag phase and another 20 g/hL around 1/3 sugar depletion.

This equates to roughly 0.4g per litre split into to additions.

If you want to stagger the nutrient addition then I would recommend using a nutrient calculator such as the one here.

Difference Between Fermaid O vs Fermaid K?

The main difference between the two Lallemand products, Fermaid O and Fermaid K is the source of nitrogen.

In Fermaid O the nitrogen is organically derived in the form of autolyzed yeasts. In Fermaid K the source of nitrogen is DAP or diammonium phosphate which is a salt produced artificially.

Many mead makers prefer Fermaid O with the consideration that an organic form of nitrogen is more accessible to the yeast than from salt. Whether this makes any difference to the finished product is probably negligible.

If you cannot find Fermaid O then Fermaid K is not going to make a poorer mead or wine. It is used in the exact same way.

What About Using Other Yeast Nutrients?

I know from personal experience that it is quite hard to get hold of Fermaid O, K and Go-Ferm in the UK and this may be the case in other countries too.

I have had the most luck finding it on eBay and Amazon.

If you can’t find it at all then I would suggest using a yeast energizer and nutrient in much the same way outlined above, using staggered additions.

The dosage will vary by product so read the instructions and divide the dosage up into the required additions.

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A Guide To Winemaking Chemicals & Additives

Neil — Mon, 24 Feb 2020 15:04:19 +0000

Winemaking has a simplicity in which you take a few ingredients, grapes or fruit, sugar, water and yeast and produce a drink with great complexity. To get the most from these ingredients we need to help them along, this help comes from winemaking additives and chemicals.

This aspect of making wine is not as simple as it first seems. Winemaking additives tend to have obscure names and less than opaque descriptions so let’s cover what each additive or chemical is and how it helps to produce wine.

You Can Make Wine Without Additives

Before we begin, I want to make it clear that there are by no means any reasons why you have to use additives when winemaking. In fact, some would say you can make better wine without the chemicals.

Where they do help is they make things more efficient and faster than maybe they would otherwise be.

For instance, wine finings is a whole group of additives that will help clear wine and they work very quickly, usually in the space of a few days. That doesn’t mean that you can’t make clear wine without finings, you most definitely can.

It will take a lot longer to make a clear wine and there is some chance it may not be quite so crystal clear. This is the trade-off between using additives and not using them.

Winemaking Additives & Chemicals

Let’s start off with the first group I just mentioned; finings. This group of additives, of which there is a whole array of types and their usage and timings of use may be different are used to speedily and really efficiently clear wines.

Wine Sulfites & Stabilizing Additives

Campden Tablets / Metabusulfites

Campden tablets are pills made from sodium or potassium metabisulfite. Both chemicals do exactly the same thing but leave either a residual amount of either sodium or potassium.

Metabisulfites are used in wine making to sanitise fruits and wine musts as well as equipment. The chemical breaks down into sulphur dioxide which is an antioxidant so metabisulfites will also scrub excess oxygen from wine.

These chemical are widely used in the commercial wine industry which is why wine labels will state the wine contains sulfities.

Potassium Sorbate / Wine Stabiliser

Potassium sorbate might also be labelled as a wine stabiliser. It acts as an inhibitor of yeast growth and is added to the wine before bottling to prevent the wine from refermenting in the bottle.

Used alongside metabisulfites it does a really effective job of stabilising wines and is essential when you want to back sweeten wines by adding sugar back in before bottling otherwise this sugar will ferment out after packaging.

Fining Chemicals

Kieselsol & Chitosan

These two finings are commonly sold together because of the way they interact.

Kieselsol is a product derived from silicon dioxide or silica that comes in a liquid form that can be dosed into the wine. Kieselsol is negatively charged and causes the positively charged particles such as yeast, proteins and haze causing compounds to bind together and sink to the bottom.

After 24 hours of adding Kieselsol to a wine, chitosan is added. Chitosan is a product derived from chitin which is derived from sources like the shells of shrimp or crabs. Chitosan works in a similar but opposite way to Kieselsol.

Chitosan is a liquid added to the fermenter which is positively charged, this binds negatively charged particles in the wine together. Creating clumps that fall to the bottom and leave a clear wine behind.

The use of both these finings together results in crystal clear wines in just a matter of days.

Bentonite

Bentonite is a type of clay sold in granules for easy measurement and addition to wine. The clay particles are highly absorbent and also negatively charged. When mixed with water and these factors bind positively charged particles floating in the wine which are the cause of the haziness.

Bentonite is sold as either sodium bentonite or calcium bentonite each will leave a residual amount of either sodium or calcium. Commercial winemakers usually use calcium bentonite as sodium levels are regulated in the US.

Generally, bentonite is used quite sparingly as it has the ability to strip out not just haze but also aroma and flavour compounds as well as reducing colour.

Gelatin

Gelatin is most commonly found in cooking but it is also used in both wine and beer making as a clarifying agent. Gelatin is made from the bones, hooves and connective tissues of animals which doesn’t sound appealing but if you eat meat then you will be consuming gelatin.

Gelatin is positively charged and is quite a strong fining so not much is necessary. Gelatin has the ability to strip out tannins and astringency from red wines so is well used in a case where the wine is overpowering.

Isinglass

Isinglass works in a similar way to gelatin. It is derived from a type of collagen found in fish, specifically dried fish swim bladders.

Isinglass comes in either a liquid slurry form or as dried flakes that need to be rehydrated. More commonly used in the production of cask beer but still a very effective fining for clearing wine.

It should be noted that wines fined with gelatin or isinglass cannot be labelled as vegetarian-friendly. Although there is very little of either fining in the finished wine as the finings are left behind with the sediment and lees when the wine is racked off.

Enzymes

Pectic Enzyme / Pectolase

Pectic enzyme is used to break down pectin in grapes and fruit. Pectin is in all fruit to varying degrees and it is what helps to maintain structure in the cells of the fruit.

Pectic enzymes break down this structure which is helpful for a few reasons. Breaking down pectin means more juice and flavour compounds can be extracted from the fruit. Pectin also causes a haze in wines that cannot be fined or filtered easily, using pectic enzyme breaks down these haze forming compounds

Acid Control Additives

Acid is a very important part of winemaking ensuring there is balance and the wine doesn’t come across as flat on the palate. Grapes often have plenty of acidity and they can be harvested at the peak time to ensure the acid levels at just right.

Making wine from fruit or floral wines there is less control over acid levels. This means we have to rely on additives to boost the acidity.

Mixed Acid / Acid Blend

As the name suggests acid blend is a mix of acids, most commonly; citric, tartaric and malic acid.

These three kinds of acid are the most common in grapes but are also in most other fruit but at lower levels. The mix of acid is often the quickest and easiest way to have a balanced acidity (without too much of any one type) when we are unsure of the particular acid content of the fruit we are making wine with.

Tartaric Acid / Malic Acid / Citric Acid

As well as blends of acid you can also buy acids individually. Most fruit wine recipes online suggest the use of citric acid but this is acid that has the lowest concentrations in grapes.

Tartaric acid has the highest concentration in grapes and it is important for the overall acidity or tartness of the wine. It also plays a role in the stability and the colour of the finished wine.

Malic acid is found in nearly all fruits and berries and is most akin to a tart green apple which has higher amounts of malic acid.

Citric acid is found in citrus fruits and adding this to wine will give the wine a citrus-like acidity and I feel is the harshest of all the acids.

De-acidifiers

Along with acids that are added to wine to make it more acidic there are de-acidifiers which are added to reduce levels of acidity.

Calcium Carbonate / Precipitated Chalk

To reduce the acid in wines that are too sour or mouth-puckeringly sharp calcium carbonate is used.

Calcium carbonate is powdered chalk that is added to the must and neutralises the excess acid. The acid forms tiny crystals that sink to the bottom of the vessel and the wine can be racked off.

Yeast Nutrients

Yeast need assistance in order to grow, reproduce and ferment sugars and these need to be present in the must or juice. If there are insufficient nutrients in the wine then the yeast will be slow to reproduce, ferment sluggishly and can stall before fermentation is complete.

To prevent this from happening we can use yeast nutrients which come in a variety of forms.

Di-ammonium Phosphate

Diammonium phosphate or DAP is most commonly sold labelled simply as yeast nutrient. DAP is primarily a source of nitrogen which can be lacking in wine musts.

For healthy and efficient fermentation nitrogen is required by yeast and DAP is required in quite small doses to promote healthy, strong and viable yeast cells.

Yeast Energizer

Yeast energizer is most often a blend of additives that promote yeast health and provide a whole range of nutrients and compounds required by the yeast.

Different manufacturers often use different blends of ingredients but most often yeast energizers will include the following:

Di-ammonium Phosphate – If you already use yeast nutrient then this will add to that dosage
Yeast Hulls – These are yeast cells that have died which contain all the building blocks to be reconstituted into new yeast cells.
Magnesium Sulfate – An additive that combines with DAP & other nutrients in the must to promote quick fermentation
Vitamin B Complex – A mixture of vitamins that are required for yeast health and often lacking in some wine musts.

Tannins

Wine Tannin

Wine tannin or tannic acid is an additive which is sold as a reddish brown powder or liquid.

Tannin is found in fruits to varying degrees, fruit like grapes have lots of tannins in the skins as do apples and elderberries. Some fruit, however, have very little tannin and adding wine tannin brings a few benefits.

Tannin pronounces flavours and makes the wine more zesty, low tannin wines can be lacking and adding a small amount will bring flavours forward. Tannin also aids wine stability and will result in wines that age well compared to low tannin wines.

The post A Guide To Winemaking Chemicals & Additives appeared first on Home Brew Answers.

Beetroot Wine Recipe

Neil — Tue, 10 Dec 2019 13:36:18 +0000

Beetroot wine is not as peculiar as it may sound. I think a lot of vegetable wines have a bad reputation that isn’t wholly deserved.

Beetroot wine doesn’t evoke the same fruity, delicious thoughts as perhaps a blackberry wine but vegetables like beetroot do in fact make great wines.

A Wine For The Season

Beetroots are in season throughout summer until early winter and store well for months unlike soft fruits.

This means there is a plentiful supply when fruits for winemaking have been and gone.

The other thing about starchy root vegetables like beetroot is they do contain sugars, complex flavour compounds and in the case of beetroot a massive amount of colour.

Burgundy-Like Beetroot Wine

Everybody knows that red beetroot will stain anything it touches. That colour transfers quite spectacularly into wine, the resulting wine is a deep, rich red that plays a big part in the way you perceive it when you taste it.

Beetroot has a great earthy quality that does come through into the wine, if you aren’t a fan of the flavour of beetroot then I would give it a miss, if like me, you like beetroot then this is well worth trying.

Spice It Up

Vegetable wines like this, that use starchy root vegetables can make great backgrounds for introducing some bolder flavours. It can be desirable, even with fruit wines to introduce some complementary flavours that make a wine more robust and unique.

Beetroot pairs well with a lot of spices because it has a rounded, earthy flavour. A small amount of cinnamon or nutmeg along with the beetroot makes a great winter warming wine.

Alternatively, coriander and orange zest, much like in a weisse beer can really work well with that earthy tone.

Which Beetroot For Your Wine?

If you grow your own or lucky enough to have a good market or grocers you can find a whole variety of colours of beetroot. The difference in flavour is not that noticeable but you can make a nice golden wine with the paler orange coloured beetroots.

Smaller Means Sweeter

The larger the beetroot the more woody it tends to get. Smaller beetroot tend to have a sweeter flavour and I think this is going to make a difference in the finished wine. I choose to use smaller beetroot but I am happy to be proven wrong.

Build Body WIth Raisins

A lot of country wines include raisins because they provide body and mouthfeel. What the beetroot lacks in body can be boosted by adding a small amount of raisins.

The flavour raisins provide won’t mask the beetroot and the wine wine will be enhanced by the added body.

What You’ll Need To Make Beetroot Wine – Makes 1 gallon / 4.5 litres

Large Stock Pot
Small Fermenting Bucket
Demijohn
Syphon
Fine Straining Bag
Airlock & Bung

Beetroot Wine Ingredients

1.5 kg Beetroot (trimmed, washed and green parts removed)
4 litres Water
1.2 kg Sugar
120g Raisins (roughly chopped)
1/4 tsp Wine Tannin
1 tsp Pectic Enzyme
1 tsp Yeast Nutrient
1 Campden Tablet
1 Sachet Yeast

Take the washed beetroots with any green stems removed, the skins can be left on. Cut into quarters and add them to a pan with just enough water to cover them, turn on the heat and bring to a simmer. Cook until just tender around 30 – 45 minutes.

Using a slotted spoon remove the beetroot from the pan leaving the water behind. Save a handful of beetroot but the rest can be used, cooked with or thrown away.

Add the sugar to the pan and bring to a simmer to dissolve. Whilst this is happening add the straining bag to the sanitised fermenter and add the roughly chopped raisins, add a handful of reserved beetroot to the bag and secure the top.

Take the beetroot and sugar solution off the heat and pour into the fermenter. Give everything a stir around to combine and then add cold water to bring the volume up to 4.5 litres. Add the tannin, yeast nutrient and crushed Campden tablet and then stir to combine, cover and leave for at least 24 hours.

24 hours later add pectic enzyme and mix thoroughly. Take a hydrometer reading if you wish. The yeast can then be sprinkled onto the surface of the must. The fermenter can be covered and the airlock fitted, fermentation will then start 24 – 72 hours later.

Leave the beetroot wine to ferment for around 7 days before lifting the straining bag and discard the remaining pulp. Cover the fermenter again and leave to ferment for another 2 days. After 2 days transfer the beetroot wine to a sanitised demijohn. Fit a bung and airlock and allow to condition and settle. Take a hydrometer reading to check fermentation if you wish.

Allow the wine to condition in the demijohn for around a month. After a month or so the beetroot wine will have begun to clear. Rack the wine to a clean, sanitised demijohn and allow to bulk age.

Leave the wine to condition and mature in the demijohn for at least 3 months but the longer the better. The beetroot wine will improve with time, bottle after maturing, you can back sweeten the wine at this point if you want. Enjoy up to 1 year or 2 after bottling.

The post Beetroot Wine Recipe appeared first on Home Brew Answers.

Wine Making Archives - Home Brew Answers

Homemade Wine: How To Make Wine From Any Fruit, Vegetable or Flower

What Is Fruit Wine?

Why Make Wine With Fruit?

What We Will Cover In This Guide

Equipment Needed To Make Homemade Wine From Fruit

Cleaning & Sanitising For Fruit Wine Making

The Basic Process Of Making A Wine From Any Fruit, Vegetable Or Flower

Homemade Wine Ingredients & Wine Making Additives

Racking & Conditioning Homemade Wine

Bottling Fruit Wine

Fruit Wine Recipes

Homemade Wine From Any Fruit

Clearing a Hazy Or Cloudy Wine

Clear Your Wine Starting With The Basics

Testing For Pectin Haze

Excess Starch Causing Cloudy Wine

Yeast In Suspension

Protein Haze

Other Causes Of Haze

Champagne Yeast – A Complete Guide

What Is Champagne Yeast?

Why Is Champagne Yeast Recommended So Often?

Fermentation Temperature Range

Excellent Fermenter

Produces Clear Wines Quickly

Produces Dry Wines

What Are The Champagne Yeast Strains?

Lalvin EC-1118

Mangrove Jack’s SN9

Is Champagne Yeast The Best Option For Your Wines?

Rosehip Wine Recipe – Wild, Delicate Rose Wine

What Are Rosehips?

When To Pick Rosehips

What To Expect From Rosehip Wine?

Take Care When Picking Rosehips

Preparing Rose Hips To Make Wine

Using Dried Rosehips To Make Wine

What You’ll Need To Make Rosehip Wine – Makes 1 gallon / 4.5 litres

Rosehip Wine Ingredients

Yeast Attenuation – A Complete Guide

The Difference Between High & Low Attenuation

How To Measure Attenuation

What Is Meant By Apparent Attenuation

Why Do We Need To Know The Attenuation?

Other Factors That Can Affect The Attenuation

Mango Wine Recipe – Tropical & Golden Wine

Using Fresh Or Canned Mango

Using Fresh Mango To Make Wine

Using Canned Mango Puree

What You’ll Need To Make Mango Wine – Makes 1 gallon / 4.5 litres

Mango Wine Ingredients

Method

Complete Guide To Wine Yeast

The Role Of Yeast In Wine

Alcohol tolerance

Fermentation temperature range

Attenuation

The Best Wine Yeast Strains

Staggered Nutrient Additions For Mead & Country Wines

Yeast Nutrients For Mead & Country Wine Making

Rehydration Nutrients Like Go-Ferm Protect

How Much Go-Ferm To Add?

Staggered Nutrient Additions

What Nutrient To Use For Staggered Nutrient Additions?

Fermaid O For Staggered Nutrient Additions

How Much Fermaid O To Use?

Difference Between Fermaid O vs Fermaid K?

What About Using Other Yeast Nutrients?

A Guide To Winemaking Chemicals & Additives

You Can Make Wine Without Additives

Winemaking Additives & Chemicals

Wine Sulfites & Stabilizing Additives

Campden Tablets / Metabusulfites

Potassium Sorbate / Wine Stabiliser

Fining Chemicals

Kieselsol & Chitosan

Bentonite

Gelatin

Isinglass