What the Butler saw

Camino del Baztan : Part five Pamplona

2026-08-21T10:36:33.685+00:00

Fortified with pan con tomate for breaksast, a Catalan tapa, made with fresh choppped tomatoes, Spanish olive oil and toasted bread. We set out on our Camino, to reach the highest point. I had planned a stupidly long track today, that was over forty kilometres long. Too far, I hear you say, especially as you are walking in the heat, on undulated terrain.

I say planned, but there was little option to commute the walk and stay at another hotel. There was just nothing. We were walking through an area, with no accommodation or catering to hand. Juan Ramon has written a fantastic blog about the very same trail, but also validating the lack of hospitality. Our end goal today, was Pamplona and the interim goal was to get to Olague, where a bus came by twice a day.

The bus would take us to Pamplona, if we missed it, I don't know what other option there was.

So the night before, I worked out landmarks and timings, to make sure we were on track.

Our first landmark, was the refuge of St James, which we needed to reach before 9.30am, and despite getting lost in the forest, where we lost sight of the yellow arrows and had no mobile signal, we were ahead of schedule. Walking along the ridge , you are overwhelmed by the shear beauty of the place and the constant cowbells, ringing around the necks of cattle and horses. Almost melodic.

From the refuge we made out way through the ferns, and down towards Monasterio de Santa Maria de Belate. Now populated by bats, the monastery has a hospital opposite, set up to help pilgrims, from as early as the 12th century, now defunct.

The small hamlet of Lantz was our next marker, and still on time, we pushed on to Olague. It was now 38 degrees, and walking on open roads, yet our journeys end was in sight. Despite the bus being late, it was with huge relief that we entered Pamplona. Our hotel was not far from the main square "Plaza del Castillo", and was in the same building above the hostel I stayed at, some three years ago, walking the French Camino.

Showered and refreshed, the first place to go is a bar within a bar, at Cafe Iruna.

This was a favourite haunt of Ernest Hemingway, and a great place for a Camino Cocktail. The receptacles, that these cocktails are served in, are questionable, but fun.

Leaving the square, there are a maze of lanes, that take you to different parts of the city. We quickly found a restaurant serving Pinxos, a Navarran cuisine, akin to tapas. One of the dishes is Tortilla, a potato and egg dish, considered a staple for both breakfast and dinner. This is served in cafes across Spain, however the more West you get, the more viscous it becomes.

To wash it down, we had a bottle of Menade, an organic wine made from Verdejo grapes. The wine comes from the Leon region, which is not local to where we are now, but it is still on the Camino trail. The vineyard sticks out in my memory, as they pride themselves on harvesting the grapes at night, for optimum freshness. Pale straw in colour, the nose is peachy, with hints of fennel and thyme. The taste is one of peach, with a lemon zesty-ness, and a herbal edge. Crisp and balanced, it can handle all the Pinxos you can throw at it.

Opposite is an incredible ice-cream shop, that is a must , for any trip to Pamplona. Then it is only a small walk back to the square, to enjoy your scoops, sit, and watch the lively city of Pamplona. Buen Camino

Camino del Baztan : Part four Venta San Blas

2026-08-20T06:36:01.072+00:00

The hotel provided, what Booking.com calls "a good breakfast". We took our time getting back on the trail. Yesterday had taken its toll, and on every Camino, it is important to look after your feet. Bandaging, taping or just applying vaseline.

The trail to Almandoz, was fairly straight forward, and we got there in time for morning coffee. However the next 2.8km was to see a 500m climb, which was very noticeable.

Civilisation seemed to slip away, as we took paths that didn't look like they had been walked for weeks.

Spurred on by the thought that this was a shorter walking day, it didn't feel as long before we reached our hostel, which was pearched by the side of a road. With nothing around it for miles, it was comforting to be welcomed by Zife and Carlos, our hosts for the night.

Zife has some strict rules for her guests, asking probing questions about the possibility of food in my pack, and if I had more than one pair of shoes, so I could leave my boots outside. Pack were not tolerated in the bar, and everywhere must be kept clean. It was like staying with your grandmother.

However the room was great, and the location was so quiet, a siesta would be a welcome break from walking. Dinner was at 8.00pm, however Zife was a great cook.

I suspect that Carlos shot the rabbit, that was in my stew. But, this far from civilisation, I guess that is how things work.

Carlos was proud to have both kinds of wine: red and white, one of each.

They both came chilled and were local-ish, as far as one can be, at the top of a mountain, with a clear three miles to the nearest habitat.

Surprisingly the wine was very good, complementing the rabbit perfectly. Bodegas Valcarlos is located in Los Arcos, not far from Pamplona and the Rioja region. It is made with the predominantly Tempranillo grapes, with a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon. The Crianza, is a Spanish wine term, used to classify wine that has undergone aging in oak barrels. The Tempranillo grape gives the wine its garnet or cherry red colour. Still young, from 2021, the clear edge is now a rose colour. The nose is one of ripe red fruits, vanilla and toast. The latter coming from the oak aging.

The taste is one of plums, forest fruits, leather and a gentle mill of black pepper. And I agree with the chilling.

In the restaurant, a sinister sign hung on the wall. I was not sure if there were political overtones, especially being in the heart of the Basque region and with no internet, it was only later on that I found out, it was just a sign for a bag repair shop. Silly me!

I would highly recommend this establishment, despite the rules, it was a perfect stop. The hosts were helpful and kind, and didn't let language be a barrier, to making us feel welcome.

Definitely try the rabbit, you will be shot away!

Camino del Baztan : Part three Elizondo

2026-08-19T12:34:47.996+00:00

Leaving Dantxarinea early in the morning, we enjoyed an easy walk to Urdax, through the woods, where we stopped for breakfast.Pushing on, we had a very steep climb, which seemed to be endless. These ten kilometres took the best part of the morning, and felt very remote, with dragon fly and wild horses for company.

At the summit, our path crossed a road, at a picnic site, with stone tables and a rest room. The descent was easier, following a stream towards Amaiur and then Arizkun. Sadly in Amaiur they had just stopped serving lunch, so settled for a lemonade and a sit down in the shade. The Camino took us along lanes and back into the woods, a blessing to get out of the heat.

At Aizkun, my wife bought a slice of cake, and came out singing happy birthday. As we sat outside this bar, my children rang with further wishes.

We still had over five kilometres to go, of what already felt like a full days walk.

The Camino trail was now closely following the Baztan river, as it meandered through the Basque region. By early evening, we finally found the town of Elizondo, and our bed for the night.

Packing light, it was important to briefly wash our briefs, before going out to dinner, and for a change, drinking local beer.

Camino del Baztan: Part two Dantxarinea

2026-08-18T21:17:40.014+00:00

On our first day of walking the Camino, we followed the tow path, along the river Nive for 15 kilometres, towards the town of Ustaritz. Although the path was incredibly busy with cyclists and runners, we were the only scallop shell carrying Peregrinos. A sign of things to come. Stopping at Villefranque, we found a cabin, on the other side of the river, serving coffee and breakfast.

At Ustaritz, we turned inland towards Espelette. There is another variant of the Camino which takes you to Sara, however our path takes us on our first climb of 500m over five kilometres, crossing part of the Pyrenees range and after a steep decent, lands us in the valley town of Dantxarinea.

Dantxarinea is a border town, between France and Spain, that still has a Douanes Francaises customs office, in the middle of the high street. The majority of the town is in Spain, where petrol and food is cheaper. As a result, there are at least seven petrol stations and loads of Biko supermarkets, both clearly disproportionate to the number of inhabittants.

Hotel Ur-Hegian came recommended, and it was definitley the best place to eat or stay. The restaurant seemed to be big into Foie Gras, so it was a forgone conclusion that our hotel was still in France. The wine came from the Brana vineyards, sighted to the right of Saint Jean Pied du Port, best known as the start of the French Camino.

Harri Gorri Blanc, is an organic wine, made from 75% Gros Manseng, with 13% Petit Manseng and 12% Petit Corbu. Three new grape varietyies to try.

Harri Gorri translates from the Basque, as Red Stone. The red stone is due to the iron rich terrain, in the vineyards.

The wine has a bright yellow hue, and despite being aged for a few years, still has a clear rim.

The nose is a blend of lemons and grapefruits, but there are gentle floral notes and hints of white peach.

Taste wise, the citrus is joined with fresh crisp pear and gentle minerality, beautifully balanced with a remarkable purity.

Along our walk, my wife saw a heart in the pylon, I quipped "that is the power of love".

Camino del Baztan: Part one Bayonne

2026-08-17T16:45:45.233+00:00

The Camino del Baztan, is still an obscure route, starting in France, then over the Pyrenees, and on to Pamplona, where it joins up with the Camino Frances. It was a popular route in the 12th Century, with pilgrims arriving in Bayonne, by boat. Hence the route is known as the Jacobean Camino.

It is championed by Gerald Kelly in his excellent guides, but unfortunately this beautiful yet challenging Camino has fallen out of fashion.

Arriving in Bayonne in the late afternoon, we headed to the Refuge de St Jacques, to pick up the all important "Credencial del Camino", a passport that you get stamped along the way, to prove you have made the walk. Walking down to the river Nive, we came across a square, full of small restaurants.

Restaurant Taloka, promised to serve Basque cuisine, so we stopped there. The first dish was Betikoa, a sausage dish with flat breads.

Next was Venison and pickles and so it carried on. The wine was called Hiruzta, and came from a Bodega, across the border, on the Spanish coast. Txakoli is the name given to this wine, produced in the Basque region. It is made with a native grape, called Hondarrabi Zuri, only found here.

A young wine (2025), with a clear rim and pale straw in colour.

The nose is one of lemon zest and golden delicious apples. The citrus notes extend to grapefruit notes too.

On the palate, the wine was crisp and refreshing, reminding me of certain Alsace wines. The lemons come through, along with a slate crispness.

Perfect for people watching, as they mill about the square. We stayed, and watched the lights come on along the river, excited to be starting another Camino.

Con:Fusion

2023-09-02T07:28:00.001+00:00

On my first day in Santiago, having finished the walk and completed my ablutions in the hotel, I walked into the city.

Passing a trendy restaurant, called Con: Fusion, I was able to spy on the menu that they were serving a Prawn Curry.

The restaurant name is a clever play on words in Spanish. Con meaning with fusion, and taken together confusion.

Sending a message to my friends, asking if they wanted to join me for dinner at 8.30pm, I got no response. However the prawn curry looked to good to miss, so I resolved to dine alone.

That evening, Juan, my friendly waiter with a tidy beard and apron to match, asked the damning question, « have you eaten here before? ».

I explained that I had just finished the Camino, was new to the city, and really wanted a prawn curry and a bottle of locally produced wine. Juan was very helpful with the wine, a beautiful white called Fanrel, from the Orixe region in Galicia.

The confusion came when I tried to order. Juan informed me that he was keen to get me to try the local specialities, and sadly prawn curry was not on the list. My starter was going to be Ceviche de Bonito, a raw tuna dish, which I discovered later originated in Peru.

Finishing the Ceviche, Juan returned to the table, beaming when I told him how great it had been. « Now for the prawn curry? » I said. Juan had other ideas. « Have you had Galician Octopus ? » he inquired. I pointed out that yes I had had octopus on the trail, and dépité Galicia spelling it differently to the rest of Spain, it didn’t hold the same allure as the prawn curry. Clearly that was where I was wrong, because octopus it was going to be.

During this time Konstantin had asked for my location, to join me for dinner. Incredulously, when he showed up, he asked Juan for a prawn curry, which the waiter brought him without a whimper. It just was not fair.

I asked for a prawn curry, despite feeling full, determined not to be beaten. This was turning out to be an expensive meal.

No luck, they forgot to cook it. Konstantin was keen to move onto a bar he had found, so we paid up and left, sin gambas.

The following night, having fortified ourselves with a few Bombays and tonics, we returned as a four, for our last supper together. Curry de Gambas we sang as one. Juan looked sheepish, but knew he was beaten. Confusion was over, I got my prawn curry, and boy was it worth the wait.

The end of the World as we know it

2023-08-27T04:13:00.007+00:00

The Camino, for some pilgrims, does not finish in Santiago, but journey on to the end of the world. The Romans believed that Fisterra, was such a place.

I knew that my Summer holiday, would not allow me to walk this part of the journey, so with my friend Konstantin, we caught an excursion coach, that would take us there.

To validate the 45 euros, that would also show us some other stuff too. This Horreo is one of the longest. We have been spotting them all over the Camino, either made of wood or stone. They are used to store and air food, keeping humidity and rodents away. This record length was the result of a competition between two towns, looking to show off their wealth.

The waterfall at Ezaro, is unique because it is a fresh waterfall, that falls into the sea. At Fisterra, the next stop on the trip, we had fantastic seafood for lunch in town. The light house is the point, where you can't see any land, just blue sky and sea. Konstantin and I had an impromptu swim in the Atlantic, at worlds end. It has the 0,00km marker stone for the Camino trail.

The lighthouse at the end of the world

Muxia

The next stop on this magical mystery tour was to Muxia, famed for the shipwrecks, it is a choppy part of the coast. It was here too that the film "The Way" concluded, with him scattering his sons ashes into the sea.

There is a fable about a stone boat that appeared here. The stone sail is all that is left, and as legend has it, if you crawl through the smallest hole and appear at the biggest, all you troubles leave you. Konstantin and I gave it a go!

This is the bridge at Ponte Maceira, on the Camino way, were disciples of Saint James, evaded capture by the Roman army. The story goes that they crossed the bridge, before it fell into the river, halting the army in it's tracks. It is also one of the most beautiful villages in Spain, winning prizes.

The trip was very good, the tour guide was excellent. She gave all announcements in Spanish, English and then Italian.

And so this is the end of my Camino world as I know it.

Santiago de Compostela

2023-08-24T15:23:00.000+00:00

Reaching Santiago, I wanted a number of things. I wanted closure on a walk, I wanted the certification that validates what I have done and I wanted the whole Cathedral experience. What I got was lost; physically and mentally.

It took me a while, and tourists information, to find the Peligrino Offices. The man I saw was gentle and impressed I had come all that way, on my first Camino. With certificate done, I knew that Mass at noon gave me plenty of time to explore the Cathedral.

It was on this tour, that I saw a priest sitting alone, offering confession in English and German. It was here that I had been adrift mentally. Giving my confession, I broke down and cried. He asked about my Camino, and I told him what a journey it had been. While saying my penance, I prayed for all the people I said I would. It was very emotional.

I found a seat at the front, for Mass. There were twelve priests giving communion, and it was a beautiful service.

Suddenly eight men appeared in burgundy coloured capes, adorned with the shell of Saint James. They took up the ropes to the thurible, filled it with lit incense and then proceeded to swing it, almost touching the roof.

Just the perfect moment to be found, and now hang up my scallop shell.

Apostolising with Peregrino

2023-08-23T14:53:00.004+00:00

Now on the penultimate day, I am walking between Arzúa and O Pedrouzo. I meet up with Carlos, who was at dinner last night, in a family run restaurant, in Arzúa.

Carlos has a holistic approach to his beliefs, especially that everything is connected to everything else.

This is in stark contrast to the my walking companion from yesterday, Bernard, a Catholic Seminarian from Brussels.

However, there were plenty of ideas all three of us shared, and I would like to share with you.

Firstly, when faced with a mountain to climb, it is important to look back, to see how far you have come. On the Camino, I reflect that taking crossing the Pyrenees as a bench mark, then you can achieve anything. Suddenly the mountain does not look so big, and the kilometres will fall away.

Secondly, when carrying your pack so far, it tends to focus you on what you need and what is frivolous. The less you have, the lighter the load. Carlos expanded this idea to our heart, and the pain we carry. He promotes self-healing, and clearly has an ability to teach this. Reflecting on getting rid of what you don’t need, I look forward to attacking my wardrobe, as I have treated my pack.

Carlos watching the kilometres decrease

The next point was universal in it’s agreement, that you can’t change people, you can only change yourself. There are relationships on every level, in my life, that I need to improve. Love will resonate, and things will get better in time. Control your actions and don’t reflect others people’s anger by becoming angry yourself. Remember that family is paramount, work is in second place.

Finally, a number of Perigrinos have commented, that nobody lies on the Camino, there is no reason to. You walk, you share your life, you listen and talk. Why waste that precious time and energy on something not true?

It was refreshing how honest Bernard was, when he wanted to pray rather than talk.

In truth, I write these things down, so I don’t forget the lessons I have learnt, and to remember the people who made my Camino so incredible.

The Naked Chef ( or Dinner Party on the Camino)

2023-08-22T15:37:00.004+00:00

Arriving at Palas de Rei, after an enjoyable 25km hike through woods and farms, it was great to hear that my friends were there too.

The naked Chef, fortunately clothed in this library picture

Erik called me and was excited, because their Albergue that night was equipped with a kitchen and dining area. He wanted to find a butcher’s, and demonstrate his professional skills as a chef. As an after note, he wanted to borrow a shirt, because they had washed everything in the Albergue laundry.

And so Erik, Orsi and I went into town on a quest for ingredients, Konstantin was to join us later. Erik clearly knew his meat, and was very masterful in acquiring Entrecôte and shoulder steaks for tonight. Melon, Parma ham, onion and broccoli purchased, I offered to provide the wine.

Back at the Albergue, with laundry still not finished, Erik striped my shirt off, to prevent it being splashed with oil. He and Orsi then got to work preparing this impromptu dinner party.

The Parma ham was wrapped around the melon for starter, served with two bottles of Lembranzas, 2022, from Albariño.

The Entrecôte steak, that had been hung for 35 days, were cooked to perfection. The broccoli was accompanied by a Hungarian salad dish made with onions and dressing. The steaks were served with three bottles of Coto de Imaz, 2018, from the Rioja region we had walked through. A fantastic time was had by all.

The Tower of Babel

2023-08-21T14:10:00.005+00:00

There is linguistic etiquette on the Camino. Everyone is greeted in Spanish, either with a Hola or a Buenos días. This is then followed up with Buen Camino.

After this you can try your own mother tongue, or try and speak theirs. Walking with an Italian women called Christina, from Milan, we began our exchange as above. It then became like the Tower of Babel, with Italian, English, Spanish and French all being used. At one point I fell back on my Latin, thinking that it must be close to the Italian words.

Caecilius et Metella thermas Romanas visitant cum Quinto filio eorum. Eheu, mons erupit!

There is only so far your conversation will go, with GCSE Latin. In fairness, Christina didn’t give a monkey’s who was going to the baths, or that they were about to be covered in ash.

Other friend who come from Germany and Hungry, speak English so perfectly amongst themselves, it is staggering how linguistically capable they are, particularly when we are tasting wine.

Walking with Danny, from Madrid, his English is incredible too. He still beats himself up, when he can’t find a word, however our conversation's are deep and varied. It all puts me to shame.

In my defence, when passing a group of French people, I did speak French to the lady. She was stunned but pleased, questioning how an English person was able to speak French, in Spain.

My point is that the Camino is the best of the Tower of Babel, where fellowship and friendship communicate above all.

To confuse thing further, last night, after a gorgeous meal of Octopus and beer with Danny, I watched regional dancing and bag pipes in the town square of Palas de Rei. Please tell me that this could not be similarly passed off in the Trossachs?

Stones

2023-08-20T14:29:00.009+00:00

A month ago, I began my journey in Saint Jean Pied de Port, crossing the Pyrenees. The night before we started, while walking around the old town, we came across an impromptu concert being given on the cobbles. Sitting on the stones, at the beginning of the Camino, listening to the music play, was fantastic. Sadly I could not upload the whole video.

Stones have then continued to mark the path. You will find huge arrows made from smaller stoned, pointing you on. They make up the very fabric of the path, they form bridges to cross rivers, like today into Portomarin. Castles, churches and Cathedrals.

Let us not forget the stones in my pack, that I carried to the Iron Cross, that came with such emotion, when laying them down. But also the stones becoming a permanent connection with the Camino and my family.

Pilgrims pile stones on markers, showing you are on the right path. Apostolising, as is my want, this can be verification that you are on a correct spiritual journey, as well as clarifying you are on the right path to Santiago. Today I crossed the marker, telling me I have 100km to go. Sonya Camino, my ace advisor, warned that the path from here on in would become busy, filled with pilgrims just doing the final 100km.

Stones are in abundance on the Camino and yet powerfully symbolic, just like the scallop shell for Saint James.

Tentatively talking of seafood, Erik, Orsi, Konstantin and I shared an Octopus and an excellent white wine from Sarria.

The wine was rich, with marzipan and honey notes. It went perfectly with the Octopus, and the Calamari and Hake that followed.

To be a Pilgrim

2023-08-19T14:44:00.007+00:00

Back in primary school, I can remember standing in the big hall, used for assembly, singing about being a pilgrim.

As John Bunyan penned; “there is no discouragement shall make him once relent.

His first avowed intent to be a pilgrim”.

So what is it like to be a pilgrim? As you walk along the Camino route, you see there is an inordinate number of fruit trees, berries and edibles. Pilgrims in the past would have eaten fruit and then done a “Paula Radcliffe” I believe it is known as, along the route.

Subsequently more fruit and berries came. I might try it with wine corks, for the pilgrims coming after me.

Another aspect of the trail is bumping into pilgrims several days later. It was great to catch up with Orsi, Erik and Konstantin after several days away from each other. Orsi was kind enough to play chess.

Today I had the pleasure of Danny’s company on the walk. We were introduced several days ago, but it was great to chat today. The topic of conversation was far ranging, and made the kilometres slip away. It did slow us down.

Finally, for today, I want to mention the Pellegrino’s menu, that most restaurants offer. It is a three course dinner with a half bottle of wine. Standards vary, as two nights ago I had a soup that was given the love and attention of road kill.

Not so soup-er

The price is normally less than 15E, which is a bargain.

Last night however, I dined with friends, enjoying a local stew for starter and the beef tongue for main. Pudding was a frozen tiramisu, but the house wine was drinkable and the company divine.

Clearly he will make good his right, to be a pilgrim.

Bodegas’ wine tasting in a bar

2023-08-17T22:17:00.003+00:00

Walking to Villafranca del Bierzo, much of the journey was passing through vineyards, interspersed with serious looking buildings, advertising their Bodegas. Sadly all of the buildings were either shut for siesta or not open to the public.

When Rex was travelling in our party, he was desperate for a bodegas to be open, and me to do my magic. Today was not the day, so instead I took photos of the names, in the hope that a bar may have their wines in stock.

Having checked in, showered and changed, I headed out, into town for these wines. Sitting at the bar, I spied the first bottle. A red from the Finca bodegas. It was a Finca Cuesta, and was stunning from top to tail. A nose of rich leather, cherry compote and black pepper. It was gorgeous, so asking the barman for a pen, I made notes on a napkin.

Questioning what I was doing, I explained about the blog and said this wine is incredible, so I will write about it. This is where the magic happened, as he said the guy next to you owns the Bodegas. We started to discuss his wine, agreeing the taste was stewed cherry, roast beef. It had a smooth finish for such a young wine. He got another bottle, his white this time the Finca white, 2022. It has massive fino sherry qualities, which was not for me.

Next I spied a red the Luna Beberide (white) and Luna Befride (red). The barman said, the guy sitting two seats away, he owns these. The evening just got better and better. His white was lime juice and vanilla on the nose, lemon drops and vanilla on the taste. Slight oak on the finish.

His red had a dairy farm smell, tasting of cherry candy, rare roast beef and red currents. Such a smooth finish for a wine so young. We tried many more wines, not listed here, but this area produces corkers. Magic. To finish the evening, I stripped off to my pants and took a dip in their river (lido) thing.

Let us be frank about Franco

2023-08-17T17:18:00.001+00:00

If you dig into Spanish history, you will find a rollercoaster of tyranny and oppression. Initially by the church, then successive governments, multiple republics and the dismally by General Franco, in a dictatorship. It is estimated that a quarter of a million Spaniards were put against the wall, and shot. Before he died, Franco was asked if he forgives his enemies. No, he replied, I don’t have any, I had them all shot.

This part of history, is not talked about, especially in Spain. There has been on monument, erected to the three hundred people murdered at Monte de La Pedraja, for their political belief.

With this in mind, when I saw Anthony Beevor’s book, called “The battle for Spain, the Spanish Civil War 1936-1939, in a book swap, I jumped at the chance.

Anthony Beevor is an excellent historical writer, who I saw speak on his Berlin book, some years before.

Not wishing to teach, it is illuminating to read what went on, in the places I walk through, less than one hundred years ago.

The threat of Communism, and a strong left wing that was ultimately divided, made way for the weak right wing to take power. Franco was aided by both Hitler and Mussolini. He can also claim the first airlift of soldiers too.

He still has his place as an evil dictator, who held power till his death in 1975, a year after I was born. Makes you think?

A guide to the guide on the Camino

2023-08-16T16:53:00.003+00:00

Looking at maps of tomorrows route becomes habitual. In the evening, before the restaurants open for dinner at 8.00pm, you take yourself through some set piece moves.

Firstly, you look at the app: Buen Camino. You can pay for it and I am sure that is wonderful, however I use it to find where the trail will start and stop, for tomorrow. That bit is free! Next up is goggle maps. I copy and paste the name of my hotel, for tomorrow night, and this will guide me home, so to speak, when I get to the destination town.

Technology done, Sonya Camino put me onto two guide books. The heavier tomb talks in detail about specific areas on the walk, it does have spiritual reflections, but the maps are pants. There is good local colour about the history of the places you are visiting. However, I get overwhelmed, so this stays in my bag for most of the time.

The second book gives a double page spread to every big stage of the walk. It is the Michelin route planner to the Camino, and it is brilliant, a definite must.

Before I came away, I bought two copies of these, tabbing every page that I was away. One copy I left for my wife and children, the other never leaves my side. Visually it tells you what to prepare for, and in a motivational way, on the walk you can see how far you have come.

As a visual for the day ahead, it gives you a quick glimpse of possible breaks and future climbs. It includes an actual map too, so you can see, in real time what is coming along.

Here is the problem. The icons used to represent cities and towns and villages, have been mixed up.

When my son was on the Camino, we joked that a work experience boy at Michelin books, called let us say, Freddie, was put in charge of the icons on each page, with no full comprehension of what he was doing. Putting icons where they were aesthetically pleasing, rather than representative.

Take last night, Ponferrada carries the Freddie icon of a small village, however in practic, it took more than an hour and a half to walk across the city. The castle, above, is worthy of its own icon.

Villafranca del Bierzo, where I am staying tonight, has the same icon as Leon, But has no cathedral or anything like it.

I just feel that the Michelin book department were against a deadline, and no-one thought to check on Freddie’s work.

The other thing about this book, that makes me laugh, is the man icon, at the top of each page. With Green, Amber and Red, you would naturally think the traffic light system, but no. Green is the hew colour of wine you drink for finishing early. Forgive me, but Amber is the colour of your per, despite drinking throughout the day, say maybe three litres. You sweat so much on these days, that you just can’t drink enough to change it.

Using the same scale, red is the colour your feet change your socks to, because you have walked so far.

Sitting on my hotel balcony as I write this, I can see I am walking two double pages tomorrow; one is green, the other red. From my art lessons that makes brown, is that a shit day?

Very much like the musicians at the start, this is all just a bit of fun.

Konstantin and I

2023-08-15T19:14:00.006+00:00

Konstantin and I have been sharing rooms, hostels or Villages from the start. It transpired that we had both booked through Pilgrim Way, and we were inextricably thrown together till Santiago. Konstantin is from Berlin, he had a great personality, and we just clicked. On the Camino, you need nothing more.

Every time we meet, we embrace, the Camino way. Telling him about my blog, he asked if he could be in it. So just for him, here we go.

At Foncebadón, someone had got a bottle of Moscato. Rather than a flute, the staff had given a red wine glass.

Just for fun, I suggested a wine tasting with Konstantin, Erik ( a chef from Berlin) and Orsi, a Hungarian from Pest.

Looking at the alcoholic volume, I was way off, with a guess of 11%. It was in fact 6%.

Looking at the nose, I got Cider apples. Erik felt there was massive Elderflower. Konstantine smelt orange or under ripe lemon zest. before.

The taste for me was dominated by stewed or cider apples. Erik thought there was honey dew melon, while Konstantin though he detected fresh Spanish Orange. Orsi said there was sherbet on the nose, but agreed with what had been said

Konstantinos showing his stuff.

The Iron Cross

2023-08-15T13:01:00.002+00:00

Before I started out on the Camino, I was fortunate to spend time with Sonya “Camino” (nobody uses surnames on the trail). She has reached Santiago recently, and so generously shared her story of her walk on the trail with me.

In sharing her story, she had lots of tips: products to take to deal with blisters, head-torch, for early morning walks etc.

Sonya’s energy, happiness and inner tranquility, that she had reached on the Camino, was infectious and almost tangible. I was envious of her calm and smile, and can only hope I find the same peace.

Sonya also made me aware that I must carry a stone, taken from my garden, and carry it with me. I would know what to do, when it came to it. Researching the stone, I found this.

It is firstly a permanent symbolic link with your home and the Camino. A physical presence linking the two locations, that can never be broken.

The stone also represents something in the Peregrino’s heart, that they want to leave behind. This could be : unpacking grudges or resentment’s in a relationship, dealing with bereavement or seeking closure on something.

Early pilgrims saw it as a way of expunging sin. Leaving the stone, signified leaving the sin behind. As a Catholic, I don’t believe this gives absolution in the same way confession does. On the plus, it does show commitment to not want to sin again.

The stone, therefore connects your home with the trail, but also stands for something you want to leave behind.

When I left, I took two stones. One from the top of Snowdon, for my nephew Angus. The other from my garden. I asked my family to give me a stone, for their “something to leave behind”. They were gentle and gave me small stones to carry.

When my eldest son left me in Burgos, he passed on the stone he had been carrying along his trail.

Today, after a brisk 2km, whilst the sun came up, the Iron Cross could be glimpsed through the pine trees. My first thought was how humble it was.

As I drew near, I realised it was not the humble one. There was a respectful silence, as people deposited the stones, they had been carrying since France.

I placed my seven on a flat rock near the top. My children had asked for a photo, which I sent on the family WhatsApp. My text said “ Whatever you asked me to leave on the mountain, it has been left on the mountain. X”.

Making way for others, I was happy to slip away and move on. As I turned around the sun had lit up the cross, so I took this photo, the carried on my journey singing.

Here comes the sun, doo-doo-doo-doo

Here comes the sun, and I say

It's alright

Apostolising on the Camino

2023-08-14T13:11:00.001+00:00

Walking from Astorga to Foncebadón, as I have done today, I had plenty of headspace time.

Reflecting on my journey over the last 500km, I have seen plenty that has changed. From numbers in my party, terrain, temperature during the day and quality of path to walk on.

It got me thinking, how the Camino represents life.

There are people, you would still like to walk with, but who have left your side. There are people who don’t share your current journey, but you will be united in the next city. There are people present at your side, when you are scared or crave company, who share their time or food, and then are gone.

The Spanish people along the way, have been a constant. Always wishing well, trying to help and making sure you get to Santiago, under their watch.

This idea can be expanded when talking about the path. Sometimes it is flat and paved, a cakewalk if you like.

At other times, the path splits, and you must choose your course. Sometimes you miss the signs, get lost, and end up sliding on your arse, down a bank to get out of trouble. Don’t worry Rex, nobody will recognise you in this.

Other times there are huge pitfalls, you have to negotiate with care. The path has its climbs, you don’t think you’re going to make. Then there are the drops, you have to steady yourself with, so as not to fall.

You walk with pain, that knocks you out or slows you down.

For a time you need help, or your Dad to carry your pack for a day! The pain also becomes manageable, other times it goes. Or you feel light footed and fit to crack on.

There is the achievement, for example: no-one can take away crossing the Pyrenees. The disappointment, no room at the inn, or like last night, because it was Sunday, nothing was open, so I skipped my meals that day.

The ladies at my hotel, made sure I had a very good breakfast, coming in at 6.00am to look after this Peregrino. God bless the Spanish, who look after us.

Everyone is at a different pace, a different place and in a different headspace.

Mine is that the Camino represents life. Buen Camino!

King of Leon

2023-08-12T16:57:00.000+00:00

Leòn originally was the base for the seventh legion of the Roman military garrison. It is thought that Léon derived from legion. It became the capital of the Asturias/Leòn kingdom.

It was first conquered by the Visigoths, then the Moor army and finally by the Christians. All of these cultures have left their mark. Currently I am sitting in the Plaza Regla, in front of the Gothic beauty, that is Leòn cathedral. Behind me is the Jewish quarter, which was possibly first settled, by Jews fleeing the destruction of the Roman Empire. Their first presence is historically recorded in 1196, with the building of a new synagogue, in the San Martin area.

Their community had troubled times from both Castilian and Allied troops, seeking to destroy the Jewish heritage. Clinging on, they make up a huge part of the cities culture.

This pilgrim was enjoying Salmon ravioli with fresh Carbonara sauce, followed by a Gotica pizza, with porcini mushrooms, local ham and fois gras shaving.

The wine is called Tampesta, 2022, from Leòn. It uses the Albriño grape. The colour is light golden straw, with a clear rim, that showing youth. The nose is one of pure honey, under ripe lemon peel and a gentle oak coming through.

The taste is a meld of honeydew and ripe Galia melon. There is a gentle citrus note, with a tannic finish, from the oak barrel. A perfect evening for this king of Leòn.

A word in your shell like!

2023-08-10T14:56:00.002+00:00

Saint James was one of the twelve apostles. He is the patron Saint of Spain, and according to tradition, his remains are held in Santiago de Compostela. That is the finishing line of the Camino.

James, along with his brother John, we’re fishermen, giving up their nets to follow Jesus. James’ emblem is the Scallop shell, to remind us of his connection to the sea. This shell marks the Camino, you will find metal ones studded to the road, tiles on buildings with the shell. It is everywhere.

Peregrinos, or pilgrims, also wear the scallop shell. It is tied to your pack at the start, and marks you out, like a badge of honour. Everyone on the trail has a shell on show, it’s significance and value cannot be understated.

This lucky pilgrim was given his, by his parents-in-law. It is special because, firstly my father-in-law dived for it in Scotland, but secondly their is a very strong chance I ate the scallop inside. Given with love, I will wear it to the end of the trail. I know exactly where it is going then.

Knights Templar is on the Camino

2023-08-09T15:28:00.000+00:00

Since Roncesvalles, we have seen the Knight Templar cross appear on rocks and stones along the Camino way. Sometimes written in marker, sometimes carved in the rock and sometimes in the form of a 3D emblem, standing two meters off the ground. Here is why this is strange.

The Knight Templar was a military order of the Catholic Church. They had great wealth and land, and a kick-ass reputation. There involvement in the crusades is legendary, brutal and victorious. They fell out of favour, and pressure was put on Pope Clement V, to have them rounded up and tortured. This pressure came from the royal families of Europe, jealous of the power the Templars held. Pope Clement V disbanded the order in 1312, which means it should not exist, or be running hotels on the Camino.

One knight introduced me to a beautiful white wine. It was called Pragustus, from the Galicia region. The nosepiece one of fresh citrus, kiwi, grapefruit and white rose blossom.

The taste is one of sherbet, lemon zingers, kiwi, however there was a slight metallic taste, probably from the vat it was finished in. At 12%, it was drinkable and went perfectly with my pilgrims meal of hake and salad.

Canal knowledge along the Canal de Castilla

2023-08-07T15:37:00.001+00:00

Moving ever westwards, todays walk was brightened by the addition of the Canal de Castilla, to keep me company.

This far into the walk, I now find distance no problem, walking faster and with purpose. When my current walking partner said his knee was playing up, I took the opportunity to walk alone towards Boardilla del Camino.

From there to today’s goal, Fromista, the canal was ever present. I only saw one canal boat, while I walked, but the flora and fawner was enough to keep me occupied.

Finding myself on the wrong side of the river, I crossed at the top of a series of locks.

Checking into my hotel, the bells of San Martin were still tolling. This was the huge cathedral like church, over the road from my hotel. I was in time for Mass, freshened up and with clean cloths.

I had a pilgrims lunch which came with wine. What is not to like. Alberto Sanz is a white wine, made from the Verdejo grape. This one is 13% and from 2022. The nose is one of Gália Melon and soft lemon drops. The taste is ripe melon, garden mint and fresh pea pods. An interesting wine to go with my rack of ribs?

Celebrations in Castrojeriz

2023-08-07T14:57:00.004+00:00

Castrojeriz is a remarkable town. It stands out, according to my guide book, as the only town on the Camino that was not founded by King or Church. It sits on the side of a hill, with a complex road system and a semi ruined castle on top.

Checking into my hotel, I was told by a cleaner, that I must find a man called Oscar, in a bar down the road. Stepping into the bar, there were two gents drinking beer. I asked for Oscar and they began stamping their feet. A portly man appeared minutes later, from the cellar. He took me back to the hotel, and checked me in. He was keen to show me their library, which I could borrow books!

He then showed me outside to another building, and said that was were I could eat. Clearly all three were run as a going concern. In the restaurant that night, Oscar was there, what a surprise.

We celebrated my birthday with a lovely meal and a classy red from the Ribera del Duero region. Liuva is a slightly aged local wine, made from Tempranillo grapes grown on 20 year old vines. It is finished for 12 months in new American oak barrels. Garnet cherry in colour, the nose is black fruits, spice and earthy leather. The taste is dark fruits, cherries and both provide a velvety finish. After the main, the waitress brought me a cheesecake with a candle, while the restaurant sang happy birthday in Spanish.

Mike, Estel and I celebrating my birthday.

Castrojeriz was also celebrating, with the townsfolk wearing yellow t-shirts, coming together to give thanks that their town is part of the Camino. This is where the Spanish have got it so right. Welcoming pilgrims and tourists, who bring money into their town, at very regular intervals.

Buen Camino Pelegrino.

Leaving Rioja

2023-08-06T04:35:00.001+00:00

As the walk nears Belorado, I find the endless Tempranillo grape vines begin to be replaced by sunflowers. The sunflowers raise their heads as the sun comes up, smiling at you mid morning, as I journey ever westwards. No wonder they were my nephew, Angus’ favourite. Every new field fills me with warmth. How he touched our lives, and continues through the ALMT, to touch the lives of others.

Before leaving the region, my party tried a Rioja. The label states it is Denominacion de Origen Caliticada, which means it is from the right region. As a local wine, the notes for this will be true for all young Rioja reds. So forgive this pilgrim for being generic.

If you poor a small amount of wine into a clean glass and swirl, you should see lines coming down from where the wine touched the glass. These are the legs. The faster the legs, the more alcohol. This wine is 14%. Looking at the edge of the wine, as it is tilted in the glass, you will see, that the rim is clear, meaning a young wine. Rusty coloured and you will have age. This wine is clear, so three years old. The colour is garnet, fresh and light. The nose is one of cherries and oak, berry fruits and floral notes.

Cherry, redcurrant and cranberry are smoothly blended on the palette, and the oak from the barrels makes a reappearance making it a touch tart, so you want to suck your cheeks in. Young red Rioja wines would be good with red meat dishes.

Now let me go back to the Sunflowers, they are smiling back at me.