Wino sapien

10 green bottles. . .

2009-11-22T10:44:00.008+08:00

One day on, and with the aid of a handful of corks, a brace of mostly empty bottles, scraps of paper, and left over food for brunch, I'm starting to reconstruct the night before. . .

With my nose in the long empty, half bottle of Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnehuhr Auslese 2007 (Mosel 7% alcohol), for instance I can smell lemon juice and honeycomb, which reminds me that last night it was sulphurous and flinty. From under this chemical veil a lovely pure note of lemon curd still emerges. Tart, mineral and oh so light and caressing, there is a powdery zip and a lovely line, and like the Spatlese there is also a playful suggestion of tea leaves. Excellent. 94. Now - 2017+

Related

Some young punks - Passion has red lips 2008

2009-11-19T22:07:00.001+08:00

South Australia. Cabernet sauvignon (54%), Shiraz (46%). Screwcap. Approx $A25.

Seductive at first, with spice, dark chocolate and blackberries. Lush, sweet and creamy, like a wet kiss, this is rounded and plump with seemingly no hardness. Later on, reality and oxygen play their part and the nose takes on a herbaceous and varnish like edge, while in the mouth it seems less integrated, with more ink and a hint of portiness and heat.

Very good.
88.
Now - 2014.

PS - I would have bought this even without the eye catching Sin on Wheels label. . .

Clonakilla Riesling 2009

2009-11-18T02:46:00.000+08:00

I've been reading and viewing Smalltown. A beautiful book about the ugliness of small Australian towns. Curiously most of the ugliness seems isolated to South Australia, Western Australia and Tasmania. There are no images from Victoria or Queensland and only a few from New South Wales (the image above is the Barrier Hwy in NSW).

The introductory text is by Tim Winton. It's pointed and insightful, and the sentiment expressed in the following quote reminds me how awful it was to build a house and listen to the excuses of the builder.

"Tradespeople are not immune to the spirit of untouchable carelessness, for when it comes to a service rendered to others, rough enough is often still good enough. Robin Boyd died before 'she'll do, mate' made way for 'fuck you, mate' and worse. Militant unfussiness can seem amusing or even charming at a distance, but when you're on the receiving end, paying for rubbish, getting it late and having to say thank you for the privilege, it's ugly and deeply unfunny, a form or moronic bullying. Sometimes only the bravest among us dare to be fussy."

Contrast this to the recent obituary in the Economist for Alan Peters, the American craftsman and artisan.

What mattered most to him was that a piece was simple and honest, that it worked, and that it was good enough to put his name to. If people called it art, all well and good; but his was the ethic of the craftsman. As Barnsley, his teacher, once put it, a rural artisan simply had to do his best. “If the wheel axle pin squeaked, if the beam had sapwood in it, if the haystack leant”, everyone in the village would know who had done it.

Tasting note: This is slightly different from previous vintages I have tried, though it still gives the impression of powder that I seem to recall finding in the 05, 07 and 08. It seems more nectar like and tropical on the nose, I thought at various times I could find white nectarine and even pineapple. I liked it. The main olfactory theme is still blossom and lemon sherbet and the delicacy remains despite the more colourful notes. Pert, powdery and mineral in the mouth, the concluding grip and texture evokes grapefruit.

Very good - excellent. I think I like this almost as much as the 08.
91.
Now - 2014.

Additional opinions - Chris and Julian.

Plastic cork

2009-11-17T07:27:00.000+08:00

It's been a while since I came across one of these, I think this might be the 5th one in over 3 years and 820 bottles. . . This one reminded me of how stiff and ungainly they are. Have you ever tried to reseal a bottle with a plastic cork?

The inscription talks of 5 senses, I find this far too narrow and unimaginative. For a start, what about our sense of time, place, direction, pressure, fear, humour and style. . .

Carchelo Jumilla 2008

2009-11-16T20:51:00.005+08:00

Jumilla, Spain. Monastrell (0.4), Tempranillo (0.4), Cabernet sauvignon (0.2). 14% alcohol. Plastic cork. Approx $A25.

The stripes reminded me of leggings, which should have been warning enough. . . I have a problem with cute bottles, finding them hard to put down, regretting the decision only later.

My old copy of the Oxford Companion to Wine has this to say about Jumilla. . . central, Southern Spain producing mainly strong, often coarse red wines. . .

The label states 14%, but it seems much bigger in its proportions. Not a wine for wimps, this is concentrated, assertive and very inky. It improves with time, losing some of its heat and spirit like edge, even so I found it hard work. A wall of scent, with the main notes being tar, lavender and a hint of sarsaparilla. Broad, dense and warming in the mouth, it has a malt / soy richness and meatiness which is quite pleasing.

Now - 2012.
85.

Five profound wines

2009-11-13T23:01:00.011+08:00

I had a superb meal at Jackson's, matched with a collection of amazing wines. With the exception of the Vat 1, all were new to me. The striking thing, was the vitality and spark within. The three whites were electric in their own way, the Vat 1 sending shivers down my spine, while the Ostertag is the closest I've come to a vinous Chanel No. 5. The Moric Blaufrankisch is dangerously good and makes just about every other red wine I've tried in the last few months seem pedestrian.

Emmerich Knoll Schutt Smaragd Riesling 2007 (Wachau, Austria) - Citrus and slate, while in the mouth it is mineral and textured. Mostly dry with lovely concentration. Excellent.

Ostertag Pinot gris Zellberg 2006 (Alsace, France) - Perfume, orange oil and pear. Perhaps the most interesting Pinot gris I've tried. . . Oily and bursting with nervous energy. Excellent.

Tyrell's Vat 1 Semillon 1999 (Hunter, New South Wales, Australia) - A superb wine, which is just starting to show some honey and toast - a thrilling combination of acidity and fluffy texture. Reminds me of powdered snow and lemon sherbet. Excellent.

Moric Alte Reben Lutzmannsburg Blaufrankisch 2006 (Austria) - Wow! Depth and tightness. Rose petal and cherry with a whiff of smoke. Lovely and pure, the striking thing is the amplitude of flavours and the bright sappiness of the wine. Excellent.

Alois Kracher Scheurebe Trockenbeerenauslese #5 (Austria) - Sublime. I'm at an adjectival dead end and keep returning to the bratty notion of liquid panty remover. . . Excellent.

A thursday trio

2009-11-12T22:10:00.003+08:00

A lazy meal with family, pizza and slow roasted goat.

Perrier Jouët Grand Brut NV - Tart and more than a hint of bitterness, I thought there was a trace of marzipan to complement the bruised Granny Smith.

Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay 2005 - Full and provocatively curved. Butterscotch, Bethonga pineapple and vanilla. Concentrated and perhaps a touch overblown. . .

Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet sauvignon 1997 - Not an auspicious year, but still there is much to like. Mellow and mature with rosewood, ginger and spice. Rounded but zippy with lovely fine tannins.

Mount Trio Pinot noir 2007

2009-11-11T15:17:00.003+08:00

Porongurup, Great Southern, Western Australia. Pinot noir. 13.5%. Approx $A20. Screwcap.

The last pinot noir I tried from this part of the world was four times the price and had a lovely combination of tightness and give. I was curious to see how this more modestly priced bottled compared. . .

Cherry liqueur and sap, as well the scent of the Australian bush (dried eucalyptus leaves, earth). Quite full, this seems bigger than the stated 13.5. Forward, and rich, this reminds me of Central Otago in its emphasis, it tapers and leaves a suggestion of Balsamic and malt (which I like, but which seems out of place).

Very good.
88.
Now - 2011.

technorati tags: wine, australian wine

Yalumba Wild Ferment Chardonnay 2007

2009-11-10T19:23:00.003+08:00

Eden Valley, South Australia. Chardonnay. 13.5%. Screwcap. Approx $A15.

Flint and sulphur, butterscotch and melon along with a slight prickle and more than a hint of hay. Plenty of texture in the mouth, I'm reminded of a slice of pineapple coated in marzipan. It's very effective and for its price, very rewarding.

Very good.
90.
Now - 2011+

Satisfaction. . .

2009-11-09T12:54:00.007+08:00

Simple, but made with care and, dare I say, love. A plate of Tortelli ($A16) from il Circolo (Angove St, North Perth).

Unrelated but recommended reading: Wine and seafood - why some red wines clash with fish. . .

Quealy Rageous 2007

2009-11-08T00:47:00.003+08:00

Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia. Sangiovese, Shiraz and Pinot noir. 13.5%. Screwcap. Approx $A31.

The upside down text on the label has the rather cryptic message in the land of mules there are no rules.

What a curious, but thoroughly delicious wine. I started the night trying to dissect and detect the various components. It's a futile exercise, the strands are well hidden and the final sum seems greater than the parts. A hedonistic wine with no rough edges. Creamy, ripe, and seductive, a seamless amalgam which only unravels (slightly) after many hours in the glass. . . most bottles I suspect will empty much faster. . . Bucolic with the softness of vanilla, the warmth of raisins and the juiciness of cherries. Convincing and beguiling.

Now - 2011.
92.

technorati tags: wine

Frankland Estate Isolation Ridge Riesling 2009

2009-11-05T21:26:00.004+08:00

Frankland River, Great Southern, Western Australia. Riesling. 12%. Screwcap. Approx $A30.

One of my pleasures is seeing my children read. They are voracious and inquisitive. I've been keeping my son company by reading the Harry Potter series. I thought I'd enjoy the books, but did not count on staying up to 2am each night, enthralled and amused.

And now, Harry, let us step out into the night and pursue that flighty temptress, adventure.

A terrific wine. The obligatory lemon juice and lime zest is joined by a suggestion of tropical fruit. Mineral and textured in the mouth, I thought there was even a hint of white peppercorns. A Rolling and refreshing Riesling. 92. Now - 2019

Wynns Black Label 1996

2009-11-03T20:30:00.001+08:00

Coonawarra, South Australia. Cabernet sauvignon. 13% alcohol. Cork. Approx $A25 on release.

I have wine all over my house. Most stored in ideal conditions (temperature controlled cabinet), but some bottles contend with more fickle circumstances. This bottle has seen several Summers of suboptimal cellaring, having been relegated to my drink soon collection (five years ago), where it was then forgotten. . .

25th November 2007. Fully mature. Rosewood, polish, ginger, and a flourish of ripe blackcurrant. 1996 was a cooler than average, though sunny vintage, but even so I was surprised by the notable acidity - which is now no longer supported by fruit and softness. The tannins are very fine and nicely attenuated, though this is clearly a wine that is fading and starting to dry out. The decay hastened no doubt by its storage and the heat of too many Australian Summers. 87. Now - 2010.

3rd November 2009 and I needed something to accompany some surprisingly good supermarket sausages (Coles - Lamb leek and mint). While rummaging, I found another bottle lurking in my son's wardrobe, pleasingly, it was much better than the one above. Aged and stooped, but still holding on and showing plenty of sinew and grip. Malt and bonox nose with rosewood and plenty of spice and interest in the mouth. 90.

technorati tags: wine, australian wine

Dandelion Vineyards Eden Valley Riesling 2009

2009-11-01T21:49:00.003+08:00

Eden Valley, South Australia. Riesling. 12%. Screwcap. Approx $A25

A beautiful package. A wishing clock on the front and a screwcap adorned with parachuting seeds, while on the back, there is a transparent leaf, shiny and palpable, I thought it was dried patch of glue at first. . .

The liquid itself seems quite separate from any other Eden Valley riesling I have tried. Distinctive in its scent and taste, it is clear and pure. It smells of rose petal, talc and slate, there is only the slightest hint of citrus and lime. In the mouth it is like a ballerina - bright, floral and light, a lovely combination of refreshment, texture and crispness.

Excellent.
94.
Now - 2014+

A somewhat related post.

Innocent Bystander Moscato 2009

2009-10-31T20:26:00.004+08:00

Victoria, Australia. Muscat (Gordo and Black). 5.5%. Crown seal. Approx $A14.

This gets 10/10 for fun. The colour is suitably vibrant and the scent is a combination of rose petals, raspberry jelly and grapes. Tart, zippy and beautiful in its simplicity and refreshment. It seems slimmer and drier than the last one I tried.

Brookland Valley Reserve Cabernet sauvignon 2001

2009-10-29T20:20:00.004+08:00

Margaret River, Western Australia. Cabernet sauvignon. 14.5%. Cork. Source: Cellar.

A beautiful wine, bold and pure. Black. Cassis scented with a note eucalyptus and cedar. Later on, a trace of earth, soy sauce and ground ginger. Big and soft to begin, there is sweetness and concentration together with a sense of envelopment and expansion.

Very good - excelent.
94.
Now - 2019.

Bindi Original Vineyard Pinot Noir 2008

2009-10-27T18:22:00.003+08:00

Macedon, Victoria, Australia. Pinot noir. 14%. Diam. Half bottle.

I love half bottles and these from Bindi are particularly welcome.

Vibrant, sappy and unresolved. Cherry and raspberry with a hint of ginger spice and creamy oak. Bigger and warmer than expected, the weight slightly overwhelms the Turkish delight and fleshy softness.

Very good.
91+
2011 - 2016

Somewhat related post.

Postcard: Boatshed 73 Crawley

2009-10-26T22:23:00.006+08:00

It's been a while since my last postcard. The days lengthen and though there has been rain there is no more cold. This is surely Perth's most photographed boat shed, captured here at speed and with minimal thought or planning. Mounts Bay road (from where the photo was taken), nestled as it is between the river and cliffs of Kings Park is equally therapeutic and functional. I can't think of a better drive in the City, generous curves, a beautiful and changing view of the river and no stop signs. . .

Borie de Maurel Belle de Nuit 2007

2009-10-25T21:06:00.004+08:00

Minervois, Languedoc, France. Grenache. 14.5%. Cork. Approx $A35.

I went wine shopping last week and found this hidden amongst the expensive bottles at the back of the shop. I picked it up on spec, thinking it would be rustic and honest. It's quite delicious. A wine with a pretty nose and suntanned body. Vibrant and fresh to start, with boiled lollies and raspberry. By nights end it has a more herbal note (dried oregano and bay) along with a trace of tar. Round and fleshy in attack, it is mouth-filling and warming. Languid and uncoiled, it eventually tightens and finishes with a streak of chalk and slightly inky tannins.

Very good.
90.
Now - 2012+

technorati tags: wine

Moss Wood Mornington Peninsula Pinot noir 2008

2009-10-22T20:10:00.005+08:00

Dromana, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia. Pinot noir. 13.5%. Screwcap. Approx $A60 (though currently available for $A42 through one particular national retailer).

Whilst this is a competent and enjoyable wine, I am not so sure about the marketing. In my simple mind Moss Wood = Margaret River = Cabernet. If there had to be a extension in the range I would have thought a better fit would have been a Moss Wood Coonawarra Cabernet. . .

The oak is notable, it's sweetly toasted, spiced, creamy and slightly clunky. Earth and stewed berries complete the olfactory profile, while in the mouth this is sappy, focused and slightly stern.

Very Good.
88+
2011 - 2015.

technorati tags: wine

Helm Riesling 2008

2009-10-20T21:35:00.002+08:00

Murrumbateman, Canberra, Australia. Riesling. 12%. Screwcap. Approx $35

Two interesting things on the back label. First the choice of preservatives - this contains 224 and 300. Potassium metabisulphate and Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C). I'm pretty sure this is the first time I have noticed a bottle with something other than Sulphur dioxide. The second thing that caught my eye was the story. Helm wines was established in 1973 on the site of the Toual Public school - hence the school bell on the label. The building, once used for Temperance meetings, now serves as the tasting room. . .

Clear and vibrant, there can be no mistaking the signal, it's kaffir lime, musk and fresh cut fennel. Electric and pulsating, this is wonderfully simple, direct and affirming.

Very good.
91.
Now - 2015+

Petaluma Hanlin Hill Riesling 2008

2009-10-18T20:07:00.003+08:00

It would seem that I was too harsh on this when I last tried it. I thought it short and unworthy. One year on I can see how wrong and impatient I was. The flavours are similar, but the striking thing now is the step up in intensity. It's like sucking on a slice of lime crusted in salt. Full of impact, zest and life. Wiser heads could see the charm and appeal much earlier, I could not. While I could reasonably hide behind the idea of a youthful bottle needing time to settle, I think I was just wrong with my assessment last time. . .

Very good - Excellent.
92.
Now - 2018.

technorati tags: wine

Shaw and Smith M3 Chardonnay 2008

2009-10-15T21:32:00.006+08:00

Adelaide Hills, South Australia. Chardonnay. 13.5%. SCrewcap. Approx $A40.

As I sip, my head is pounding and my concentration is elsewhere. Is it any wonder I find this slightly less compelling than the previous vintage? The spectrum of flavours is similar with melon, fig and butterscotch. I can smell and taste grilled pineapple, which is not always a positive. Creamy and sappy at once, all the components are present, but it still seems a little too diffuse and blurred around the edges for higher marks.

Very good.
92.
Now - 2012.

Turkey Flat Shiraz 2006

2009-10-15T14:10:00.004+08:00

A lazy lunch in the City and the most notable thing is the ongoing construction. Little by little Perth is being remade. It's paradoxical then that there seems to be such debate about whether to extend retail trading hours.

I had a spicy calzone stuffed with spinach, scrambled egg and Italian sausage and a tasting glass of slightly top heavy shiraz. Not a match made in heaven, so it was fortunate the wine arrived well ahead of the food.

A whiff and prickle of acetic acid and varnish before a more inviting note of raisins and creamy chocolate. The oak is notable, but stained with crushed berries. Lush, concentrated and flooding. This is unlikely to make old bones, but the combination of ripeness, intensity and the faintest suggestion of Port won me over.

Very good.
90.
Now - 2012.

Orlando Steingarten Riesling 2001

2009-10-13T20:06:00.004+08:00

I had the idea of cooking a recipe from David Thompson's peerless book and drinking a middle aged riesling. I did both, but as it turned out, not on the same day. My Tom yam was a mild disappointment, I could not get the balance of hot, salty and sour.

Likewise, my Steingarten epiphany will have to wait. I opened this to find the inside thread of the screwcap partly stained and crusted. The foam and foil disk which provides the hermetic seal was itself stuck down and any attempts at lifting it only revealed more stain. All of this suggests this is an atypical bottle with an imperfect seal. Despite the signs of leakage, I could find no particular suggestion of oxidation, indeed I thought this needed air. . . The wine is most peculiar, the nose is identifiably Barossa, with a whiff of wax, lime and kerosene. Like a previous encounter I found it blunt, dull and lifeless to begin, a strange and unnatural combination of mouse, mushroom and blue veined cheese. By nights end, there is more zest, texture and length. I feel more favourably inclined, but remain unimpressed.