Every month we ask an Istanbul local the same ten questions. This way you can hear firsthand what they love and hate about the city, and learn about the best places to wine, dine and shop in town. Today Dumrul Alcici, aged between 36-45 and active as a manager, shares his Istanbul secrets.

1. Where do you live, and what makes your neighborhood special?

I live in Etiler, in the Beşiktaş district. Although it is a residential area located in the city center it is still very quiet.

2. What does a perfect day in Istanbul look like for you?

I prefer nice spring weather over the summer heat. It starts with a nice brunch by the Bosphorus. After that some (window) shopping, followed by quality entertainment at night.

3. Where would you take first time Istanbul visitors to?

I’m a bit traditional here I guess. I would take them to the historical sites in Sultanahmet.

4. Do you have any shopping preferences and/or secrets?

I prefer shopping malls and department stores. Very little secrets to share while shopping there.

5. What is according to you the best souvenir people should take back home?

Inside the Grand Bazaar.

In my opinion the Grand Bazaar is the best spot to find suitable souvenirs. There is such a huge variety that everybody should be able to find something they like.

6. What is your favorite restaurant, and why?

I like Vogue (see opening picture) a lot. It has a nice view, and they serve even better food.

7. What Turkish dish should visitors really try out?

Turkish cuisine is famous for its huge variety of kebabs. But if there is one type people should really try, then it’s Iskender Kebab. Just make sure you order it in a ‘Bursa’ restaurant to get the authentic flavor and taste.

8. What is your favorite drink, and the best place to order it?

I love sipping on a mojito at Anjelique, a nightclub located in Ortaköy.

9. What is your favorite bar or night club?

Nuteras Restaurant & Bar.

I love chilling out at Nuteras. They have an excellent restaurant and bar with a magnificent view.

10. What do you love and/or hate about Istanbul?

I love the diversity of people and food. Just like all other inhabitants of Istanbul, I hate the traffic.

[Photo Source]

In part one of our most popular Turkish desserts series we focused on pudding and confectionery types. Now we will take a closer look at phyllo dough (the famous baklava varieties), semolina, and fruit desserts.

As usual I’ll explain how every dessert is made and highlight the main ingredients. I recommend you try at least a few during your stay.

Semolina desserts

Höşmerim

Revani

This over 500 year old dessert is from the west of Turkey, the city of Balıkesir. Roasted semolina is sweetened with a syrup of milk, water and sugar. The most important ingredient of höşmerim is dil peyniri, an unsalted mozzarella like cheese. It melts and mixes within the rest. The dressing elements are cream, almond, walnut, shredded coconuts or caster sugar.

Revani

This cake consisting of a mixture of semolina, wheat flour, eggs, sugar, oil, yogurt and lemon zest is baked and sweetened with a syrup of water, sugar and lemon juice.

İrmik Helvası

Irmik Helvası

The term ‘helva‘ means sweet in Arabic. Turks became familiar with helva after their introduction to Islamic and Arabic culture. The relatives of a deceased person cook and offer semolina helva or flour helva to visitors and neighbors on the seventh and fortieth day following the death of a Muslim, and also on the first anniversary.

Semolina is roasted in butter together with pine nuts on very low fire for a long time and left to rest with boiling hot milk, water, and sugar. Cinnamon is the most common dressing.

Phyllo Dough Desserts (Types of Baklava)

Baklava

When you ask a Turk what to eat as a Turkish dessert, baklava is the most common answer. Turks love sweets and baklava is a fine example of this. The description of baklava is simple: chopped nuts are spread in between the phyllo (yufka) layers, dressed with butter, baked and sweetened with syrup or honey. However, this is not a simple dessert to make. We have a whole page dedicated to this famous Turkish dessert.

Sütlü Nuriye

Basically the dessert is the same as baklava but with a slightly different syrup. The amount of water is less and milk is added. Therefore it has a whitish look and it also tastes a little less heavy. The origin of the name is vague. Nuriye is a female name. Some say the dessert takes its name after the inventor. Some say the cow that supplied milk to make the dessert was called Nuriye. Others say that after the Coup d’état in 1980, when the economy was disastrous and the prices of baklava were frozen by the municipality, people got creative not to lose money. Using milk with less sugar instead of sorbet, and hazelnuts instead of the more expensive pistachios was the invention of a baklava artisan. And he called it Sütlü Nuriye to point out the difference.

Burma

Another variant of baklava, this time by its shape. A few layers of very thin phyllo dough are placed on top of each other, dressed with nuts between the layers, wrapped around a rolling pin, and creased around the pin by pushing. It is then dressed with butter, oven baked and sweetened with the syrup. Since it has a hole in the middle you might say a portion is a little more guilt free of calories.

Bülbül yuvası (Nightingale’s Nest)

Bülbül Yuvasi (Nightingale’s Nest)

The name comes from the circular shape of the phyllo dough containing nuts, mostly pistachios. The preparation is almost the same with burma, but the difference is that the rolls are shaped into rings and the pistachios are placed in the hallows of the rings after the dough is cooked.

Fıstıklı Sarma (Pistachio Wrappings)

This Turkish dessert is also similar to baklava, with the exception of the excessive amount of pistachio. Fıstık means pistachio and this desert is only made with pistachios. Whereas you can get baklava with hazelnuts, walnuts or pistachio. Its hometown is the city of Gaziantep in the south-east of Turkey. I haven’t been to Gaziantep, however I have been to another city in the south-east, Kahramanmaraş. This dessert with the Maraş ice-cream on the top was a killer taste I fail to forget, ever!

Şöbiyet

This is the only phyllo dough dessert with an original filling compared to the rest. A mixture of milk and semolina is boiled to a thick pudding called kaymak – cream filling. Around 10 layers of phyllo doughs are put on top of each other with a butter dressing on each, and are then cut in 7 by 7 cm squares. Kaymak and walnuts are placed on the center of the squares, folded into two as triangles, baked, sweetened with the syrup and dressed with grounded pistachios.

Güllaç

Güllaç

In the 15th century, the common people of the Ottoman Empire made stocks of yufka – phyllo dough, made of maize starch and water. After contact with air, these sheets dried and it was ideal to save them for months. To eat when desired, they soaked the sheets in milk and sugar. In the course of time rose water became another ingredient as well as the hazelnut, walnut or almond in between.

This light and refreshing Turkish dessert became a huge favorite to eat after breaking the fast during the Ramadan. Today, the yearly consumption of güllaç is around 250 tons. Some 85% of this is consumed during Ramadan. Recently rose water become less popular and has been replaced by a pomegranate dressing on the top. It adds nice flavor and a charming look on the plain white dessert.

Künefe

Künefe

Instead of phyllo dough, kadayıf is the main base of künefe. Kadayıf is thin fibers of dough, a simple mix of water and flour. Künefe or kanafeh in Arabic is a traditional Arab cheese pastry. The unsalted cheese in between the two layers of kadayıf is the essence. It is freshly baked, soaked in sweet syrup and served warm with grinded pistachio dressing. When walnut replaces the cheese, it is called cevizli künefe. However, I do recommend you to try the cheese version, peynirli künefe.

There are more desserts made with kadayıf such as kadayıf burması/dolması (rolls of kadayıf with nuts) and muhallebili kadayıf (kadayıf with pudding in the middle).

Fruit Desserts

Kabak Tatlısı

Kabak Tatlısı

Squash (kabak) dessert is pretty simple yet luscious, especially when served with thick cream or even fresh yogurt to make it lighter. The dressing can be walnut or hazelnut. The squash boils lightly with sugar and very little water. Some prefer to bake for more crispy edges and a sticky texture.

Ayva tatlısı

One of my favorites, quince dessert is a modest name for such a divine taste. Cooked in water, then oven baked with sugar, with cinnamon sticks and nuts in the middle. Can also be served with ice-cream or thick cream in the middle. It is certainly lighter than most of the traditional Turkish desserts.

Photo Sources [1] [2] [3]

Every month we ask an Istanbul local the same ten questions. This way you can hear firsthand what they love and hate about the city, and learn about the best places to wine, dine and shop in town.

Today Dilara Inan Özbay, aged between 26-35 and active in the technology sector as a Marcam Specialist, shares her Istanbul secrets.

1. Where do you live, and what makes your neighborhood special?

I live in Kemerburgaz. This area is located 20 minutes outside the city center, but it is very green and quiet.

2. What does a perfect day in Istanbul look like for you?

First of all wake up a bit later, and head for Bebek to have a nice brunch, followed by a boat tour along the Bosphorus.

3. Where would you take first time Istanbul visitors to?

I would take first time visitors to Sultanahmet so they can see the major tourist attractions. I would also guide them through the Grand Bazaar for a shopping spree and get them acquainted with Turkish bargaining.

4. Do you have any shopping preferences and/or secrets?

As you could guess, I’m fond of the Grand bazaar where you can find almost anything. I also like shopping at vintage stores in Cihangir.

5. What is according to you the best souvenir people should take back home?

I would recommend jewelry with the evil-eye theme.

View from 360 Bar and Restaurant in Beyoğlu

6. What is your favorite restaurant, and why?

I really enjoy having dinner at 360 in Beyoğlu. The food is delicious and the panoramic views are wonderful.

7. What Turkish dish should visitors really try out?

I’m sure it’s a cliché, but we have so many types of kebap that you should try a few different ones.

8. What is your favorite drink, and the best place to order it?

My favorite drink is Mojito, which I prefer to enjoy in 360 or Nuteras.

9. What is your favorite bar or night club?

I have no favorite bar or night club. I enjoy the nightlife in Blackk, Nomads or Al Jamal. Alternatively, I like to visit the pubs and restaurants lined up on Asmalımescit Street, close to Tünel (the end of Istiklal Caddesi).

10. What do you love and/or hate about Istanbul?

What I love about Istanbul is its cosmopolitan character, with a nice mix of modern and old parts and buildings. I hate the traffic though.

Turkish cuisine is very rich in desserts. The diversity comes from the fact that Turkish cuisine is the successor of the Ottoman culture.

Another factor is the geographic scene. The country spreads over a land of 783.562 km² with different regions and variations on vegetation within its borders and also the Mediterranean and Persian neighbors had their influence.

Pudding Desserts

Aşure

Aşure, also called Noah’s desert.

According to Islamic belief, when Noah survived the big flood, he made a pudding dish with the ingredients that were available. There are many variants of this Turkish dessert. Basically this is a mixture of sugar, grains like wheat, chickpea and haricot beans with dried fruits like fig, appricot and raisin as well as nuts like hazelnut, and walnut for dressing.

The dessert comes with a religious custom. The first month of the Islamic calendar is Muharrem. It is a good deed to fast the first 10 days of Muharrem, and then on the 10th day, the Day of Ashure, to cook and share ashure with your neighbors and relatives. Therefore ashure has had a binding social value. Today, the tradition of sharing ashure is still very much alive.

Zerde

Zerde

A traditional Turkish dessert for weddings and birth celebrations. This yellow color pudding has very simple ingredients: water, rice, corn starch as well as saffron and curcuma to create its yellow color.

The garnishing of zerde varies depending on local fruits such as currant, pine nuts, rose water, pistachios and pomegranate.

Sütlaç

Sütlaç

All over the world people love and eat rice pudding. It is so widespread that every country has its own preparation style. In Turkey people cook rice pudding with water, milk, rice, sugar and rice flour. In modern versions people added vanilla flavor, too.

Cinnamon or grinded hazelnuts are the two main dressings. After it is browned in a salamander broiler it becomes the Turkish dessert called fırın sütlaç, or oven baked rice pudding.

Tavuk Göğsü

Chicken breast is the direct translation of this dessert, and shockingly that is also the ingredient of this thick pudding like delicacy. After boiling the chicken breast in water and ripping it into small fibers, it is boiled even more with milk, sugar and rice or corn starch. Cinnamon is the main dressing/flavoring element.

Kazandibi

Kazandibi

When you cook tavuk göğsü pudding on a tray with sprinkled powder sugar at the bottom, then it is called kazandibi – the bottom of the pot. The stove fire caramelizes the sugar so it colors and sweetens the thick pudding. It is scraped and served folded, hence the brownish delicious savor faces its admirers. If you leave the chicken out of the recipe, then it is called muhallebi kazandibi.

Keşkül

It is a simple yet delicious pudding cooked with crushed almonds, grated coconut, milk, sugar, rice flour and corn or potato starch. Coconut and blanched almond flakes or pistachios sprinkled on the top are the finishing touch. Like the rest of the pudding desserts it is served cold or maximum at room temperature.

Confectionery Desserts

Cezerye

Cezerye

The name comes from cezer, which means carrot in Arabic. This Turkish dessert consists of caramelized carrots with cinnamon, nuts like walnut, hazelnut or pistachios and is covered with grated coconut. It can be an easy to carry travel souvenir to take back home and share with your loved ones.

Lokum (Turkish Delight)

Lokum or Turish Delight

The original date for the invention of lokum is not clear. However, it is certain that Ali Muhittin Hacı Bekir’s lokums introduced the taste to the world. He opened his confectionery shop in Istanbul in 1776. An English explorer got lokum from his shop and took them to England. Turkish delight’s fame spread since then.

Originally, there were three colors meaning three flavors: red – rosewater, yellow – lemon peel and green – bitter orange.

With today’s rich variety of ingredients and nuts there currently are several flavors such as rose, pistachio, hazelnut, walnut, almond, coconut and almond, cream, cream with cinnamon, mint, mastic, cinnamon, ginger, clove and coffee, and fruit flavors like sour cherry, strawberry, orange, apricot, and lemon.

Cevizli Sucuk / Küme

Cevizli Sucuk

Sucuk is a spiced sausage similar to pepperoni. This Turkish dessert lends its name from it because it resembles a sausage. Together with walnuts, almonds and hazel nuts are also commonly used. The nuts are lined up on a string, dipped in molasses of mainly grapes. Some varieties of mulberry and pear molasses taste equally delicious. Needless to say it is a calorie boost, yet very rich in minerals and vitamins such as A, D, E and K.

Pişmaniye

Pişmaniye, or Turkish fairy floss

Also known as Turkish fairy floss which makes sense given its texture. Pişmaniye is another Turkish dessert with a very old traditional taste. The place of birth is the Kandıra district in the city of Kocaeli. It dates back to the 15th century.

Sugar is melted, frozen, shaped like a big ring and placed on the mixture of roasted flour with butter. The rest of the process is constantly pulling the ring and shaping it back to a ring again until it becomes flossy.

It is similar to cotton candy but different in texture. It is garnished with different flavors like ground pistachios or cacao. It looks a bit messy — which it actually is while eating because it falls off in very small pieces — and it is also sticky. Yet, the trouble is certainly worth trying. Thanks to the modernized packaging you sure can take a box back home as a nice Turkish souvenir.

Photo Sources [1] [2] [3] [4] [5]

Every month we ask an Istanbul local the same ten questions.

This way you can hear firsthand what they love and hate about the city, and learn about the best places to wine, dine and shop in town.

TodayAykut Kaya, aged between 26-35 and Director of Welcome Desk, shares his Istanbul secrets.

1. Where do you live, and what makes your neighborhood special?

I live in Şişli. Nice locations, together with various restaurants and bars, make our neighborhood special. I also like the type of people that live there.

2. What does a perfect day in Istanbul look like for you?

For me, a perfect day in Istanbul would be a Saturday. I don’t like the typical Sunday crowds. Of course, the best way to start the day is with breakfast on the Bosphorus shores.

3. Where would you take first time Istanbul visitors to?

Night view of Istanbul, with Taksim, Nişantaşı and Şişli.

If they are not interested in the typical tourist areas, I would take them to Nişantaşı, Bebek, Ortaköy and Istiklal Street. Although you could argue that the latter already is a touristic avenue.

4. Do you have any shopping preferences and/or secrets?

I prefer going to shopping malls. You find everything in one place, and there is no shortage of them in Istanbul. İstinye Park and Kanyon are among my favorites.

5. What is according to you the best souvenir people should take back home?

I think people should take home whatever caught their attention. For some this may be as basic as a pack of Turkish coffee, while others won’t be satisfied unless they take a handmade carpet back home.

6. What is your favorite restaurant, and why?

I have lots of favorite restaurants in Istanbul, but one that really stands out for me is Mikla. It obviously has great food, and a matching Bosphorus view. After dinner you can move to the rooftop bar to extend the lovely experience.

7. What Turkish dish should visitors really try out?

Elio Bar & Restaurant in Nişantaşı.

I think they should try at least a few Turkish kebabs. We have so many variations, and they all taste different. If you like sweet stuff, I would also recommend to give our deserts a try.

8. What is your favorite drink, and the best place to order it?

My favorite drinks are cocktails and mojitos. The best places to order it are Elio or Hardal in Nişantaşı. Another option is to enjoy them in one of the many Istanbul night clubs.

9. What is your favorite bar or night club?

My favorite bar and night club is Anjelique, located in Ortaköy.

10. What do you love and/or hate about Istanbul?

I love Istanbul because of its beauty, and the fact that you can find anything here. I only hate impertinent people.

[Photo Source]

Should I stay in Sultanahmet or Beyoğlu? That’s a question people often ask me while they’re planning their trip to Istanbul. The problem is that there is no straightforward answer to it. It’s merely a matter of preference. Let me explain the pros and cons of both locations.

Golden Horn

Sultanahmet and Beyoğlu are almost neighboring areas, if it wasn’t for the Golden Horn (Haliç). The Golden Horn is a flooded river valley, connecting with the Bosphorus and the Sea of Marmara. This historical natural harbor is now a main departure point for ferries, both going up the Bosphorus and heading for the Asian side.

The Galata Bridge over the Golden Horn.

The Golden Horn actually separates the old heart of Istanbul (Sultanahmet, Eminönü and Fatih) from the modern part of Istanbul (Taksim, Şişli, Beşiktaş, etc.).

There are two bridges crossing the Golden Horn: the Unkapanı or Atatürk Bridge, and the Galata Bridge. Especially the latter is of interest to tourists because it is the shortest way between Sultanahmet and Beyoğlu.

On the upper deck you’ll pass by a seemingly eternal line of fisherman while witnessing the bustling activity on the Golden Horn. A visit to the lower deck will provide you with a ringside seat in one of the many cheap cafés to watch boats come and go.

Sultanahmet

The biggest incentive to book a hotel in Sultanahmet is obviously its proximity to major sightseeing spots such as the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, the Basilica Cistern, Grand Bazaar, etc. They are all within walking distance of most hotels located in this area. The flip side is unfortunately that Sultanahmet turns into a pretty dead neighborhood once the sun sets. After dark the streets are empty and good night entertainment is scarce.

Beyoğlu

Nevizade in the Beyoğlu area.

My Advice

The truth is that it’s inevitable to spend time in both areas. So you’ll always have to travel between the two, being it by public transportation or by taxi. I stayed in hotels in both areas on numerous occasions, and always felt I had the best time staying in the Beyoğlu area. I love to arrive at my hotel after a full day of sightseeing, freshen up for a nice dinner, enjoy the nightlife and being able to walk back home surrounded by people whenever I feel it’s time to recharge the batteries.

Photo Sources [1] [2] [3]

Every month we ask an Istanbul local the same ten questions.

This way you can hear firsthand what they love and hate about the city, and learn about the best places to wine, dine and shop in town.

Today Aslı Lale Özgen, aged between 26-35 and active in the advertising/marketing sector, shares her Istanbul secrets.

1. Where do you live, and what makes your neighborhood special?

I live in Ulus, approximately 1 km further than the first Bosphorus Bridge. It’s convenient since it’s very close to the places where I like to go.

2. What does a perfect day in Istanbul look like for you?

I think Istanbul is at its best when it is sunny, yet cold. A perfect Istanbul day should also include dining in a fish restaurant.

3. Where would you take first time Istanbul visitors to?

View from Vogue Restaurant in Istanbul.

I would take them to Vogue Restaurant. They serve fish, sushi, pasta, and meat … and the Bosphorus view is stunning. It’s located only 200 meters up the hill from Dolmabahçe Palace, but you better take a taxi since there is no direct road to walk.

4. Do you have any shopping preferences and/or secrets?

I prefer casual, cool, and simple stuff. But it must be of good quality.

5. What is according to you the best souvenir people should take back home?

It’s a cliche I’m sure, but for me it’s a nice carpet (kilim).

6. What is your favorite restaurant, and why?

It should have great food, excellent service, and of course a gorgeous view and sunset. The before mentioned Vogue Restaurant has the best view and good food.

I’m also a big fan of Uskumru, currently one of the best fish restaurants in Istanbul [more details about Uskumru were shared in a previous post]. I’ve shared very special moments with my family there, and they serve the best green salad with Parmesan and garlic.

7. What Turkish dish should visitors really try out?

Here I probably will go off the beaten track by suggesting dolma (stuffed vegetables) and mantı (commonly known as Turkish ravioli).

8. What is your favorite drink, and the best place to order it?

Bosphorus view from Ulus 29 Bar.

I’m a big fan of whisky with ice, preferably Chivas.

9. What is your favorite bar or night club?

I love to drink the before mentioned spirit at my favorite club: Ulus 29. Not only a great bar with a nice lounge and terrace view.

10. What do you love and/or hate about Istanbul?

I’m sure I’m not the only one, I hate the traffic!

Kronotrop is a small coffee shop where they take coffee seriously. Because they respect what coffee can offer, they opened Istanbul’s first micro roaster and brewery.

It is a place for gourmet coffee lovers in a side street of Istiklal Caddesi where they prepare and serve the best coffee in terms of flavor and freshness.

Back to Basics

The founder of the shop Çağatay Gülabioğlu is a successful independent entrepreneur who comes from Turkey’s capital, Ankara. He has searched and learnt about growing, roasting, grinding, brewing and enjoying coffee for years. Based on his research he notes that Turkey is a tea country and Turks do not have the real coffee culture.

This is why he opened Kronotrop just over half a year ago. He stands out with his rather universal attitude and targets foreigner customers rather than locals.

Only the Best Is Good Enough

• Single-Origin Beans — At Kronotrop they offer coffee based on single-origin beans because every bean brings a different flavor and experience. They select and import the beans from coffee-cultivating countries all over the world, such as Bolivia, Brasil, Costa Rica, Ethiopia, Honduras, Kenya, Ruanda… The reason why you can choose from over 30 different coffee varieties.
• Freshness — Besides the origin of the bean, maybe the most important factor is their freshness. That’s why they roast the beans in-house using a micro 1 kg capacity roaster and only ground the beans the moment the customer orders the coffee. I don’t think there is a better way to get fresh coffee, yet it requires some patience deservedly.
• State-Of-The-Art Equipment — Another magical touch for gratifying coffee experience is using award-winning equipment. First there is the special grinder that pulverizes the beans without overheating them. Then there is the Nuova Simonella espresso coffee machine, the official choice of the World Barista Championship. For iced coffees they use the Japanese cold brew method to preserve the quality.

Take Away Coffee Shop

Inside Kronotrop, the tiny place for excellent coffee.

The shop is cozy, with exposed brick walls, a large blackboard above the counter listing all the possible beverages, and only four stools in front of it. Because the shop is so small, a lot of people order their coffee to go, which also makes it Istanbul’s first ‘take away’ coffee shop.

To get there, walk halfway through Istiklal Caddesi until the Galatasary High School, run down the side street and then find the shop on your left. You can’t miss really; just follow the smells of excellent freshly brewed coffee.

Address: Yeniçarşı Cad. No:5/B Beyoğlu, Taksim
Telephone: +90 212 249 92 71
kronotrop.com

Every month we ask an Istanbul local the same ten questions.

This way you can hear firsthand what they love and hate about the city, and learn about the best places to wine, dine and shop in town.

Today Anıl Dundar, aged between 26-35 and active as a desk clerk, shares his Istanbul secrets.

1. Where do you live, and what makes your neighborhood special?

I live in Şişli. There are lots of companies and shops in my neighborhood.

2. What does a perfect day in Istanbul look like for you?

First, wake up early and go to the Arnavutköy, Bebek, Ortaköy or Emirgan for a delicious Turkish breakfast with an amazing Bosphorus view. After that, I have a walk along the Bosphorus, and maybe try to catch some fish. It is very enjoyable. To complete the day, I visit the old places of Istanbul.

3. Where would you take first time Istanbul visitors to?

Top part of Galata Tower.

First of all, I would take them to the Galata Tower. Its 360 view of the city is ideal to explain all the different areas and points of interest. After my visitors have a nice overview, I take them to the places I explained.

4. Do you have any shopping preferences and/or secrets?

There are lots of shopping malls in Istanbul. In my opinion, the best one is Istinye Park, followed by Kanyon. Of course there also is the most famous street of Istanbul, Istiklal Caddesi. But the best boutique shopping area is Nişantaşı with a lot of Turkish designer shops.

5. What is according to you the best souvenir people should take back home?

If I come to Istanbul for a few days and have a taste of Turkish coffee, I would absolutely take the coffee and a nice set of cups back home.

6. What is your favorite restaurant, and why?

My favorite restaurant is on the Asian side. It’s a bit farther from the city center which makes transportation a bit more difficult. The restaurant is called Güverte in Anadolu Hisarı (the fortress on the Asian side). Why? The atmosphere is amazing, the fish and the mezes are delicious. And, for a change, you get to gaze over the Bosphorus at the European side beyond the second bridge.

7. What Turkish dish should visitors really try out?

You should try to eat all of the mezes with rakı.

8. What is your favorite drink, and the best place to order it?

My favorite drink is rakı. You can drink it with starters, main dishes, fruit, desert, dried nuts, etc. You should also try a drink called Eraser Head. It’s a mix of 13 or 14 different kinds of alcohol and some apple juice — a perfect mix. You can find it in any of the Midpoint restaurants.

9. What is your favorite bar or night club?

Mikla bar on top of Marmara Pera.

My favorite bar is Mikla. Actually, Mikla is a restaurant on the top of the Marmara Pera hotel in Beyoğlu. They have a roof bar on the top of the place from where you can see most of the Bosphorus. I also love Anjelique in Ortaköy.

10. What do you love and/or hate about Istanbul?

It is impossible to hate Istanbul.

Photo Sources [1] [2]

Public transportation in Istanbul has improved for the better over the past few years. Most people still take taxis to commute between the various points of interest, but it’s often not the best choice.

In this article I’ll point out the benefits of using public transportation, what the common lines are for tourists, when they operate, and what sightseeing spots they service. You will be amazed.

Public Transportation as the Smart Alternative

It’s an understatement to say that Istanbul traffic is a problem. The latest renovation works of Taksim Square make it even worse. Roads are always heavily used, and gridlocks are common from 07:00 till 10:00 in the morning, and again starting 16:00 until often late in the evening. This makes public transportation a nice alternative.

I will only focus on metro, tramway and funicular systems because buses will be stuck in traffic just like taxis. This is also by no means an overview of every public transportation line Istanbul has to offer, but merely the most interesting ones for tourists.

Please scroll to the bottom of this article for a large map with all the lines and the relevant sightseeing spots at the different stops.

When to Use Public Transportation or a Taxi?

• physical condition — By default, using public transportation requires you to walk a bit more. Some run underground, so be prepared to take stairs although most such stops have moving staircases. Decide according to your physical condition.
• fares — The fare to take public transportation is about 2 TL per person per ride. So, let’s take the following example. The cab fare to get from Sultanahmet to Taksim is 11 TL, regardless of the amount of people in the cab. From Sultanahmet to Taksim by public transportation requires you to first take the tramway, followed by a funicular. The trip for one person costs just under 4 TL. So, the latter is a great idea when traveling alone, as a couple or even as a party of three. Yes, even three people during rush hour because you’ll win time and money since the taxi meter also adds small amounts when standing still in traffic.
• time of the day — Most lines operate between 06:00 and 23:00 (see details below), so outside of these hours you must rely on a taxi which is safer at that time of day anyway.

How to Pay for Public Transportation?

There are basically two ways to pay for the fare: either you get a token (jeton) from the sales booth or vending machines (jetonmatik), or you use the Istanbul Card (Istanbul Kart) — an electronic boarding pass. If you use a token you’ll pay 3 TL per ride, with an Istanbul Card you only pay 1,95 TL per ride, and get discounts for every transfer you make. So I strongly suggest you to get an Istanbul Kart.

T1 – Kabataş-Bağcılar Tramway Line

T1 – Kabataş-Bağcılar.

This is probably the most important line. This air-conditioned tramway basically connects Sultanahmet with Beyoğlu and Taksim (by funicular). This line has many stops of interest to tourist:

• Beyazit — Grand Bazaar, Süleymaniye Mosque
• Sultanahmet — Topkapi Palace, Haghia Sofia, Blue Mosque, Basilica Cistern, etc.
• Sirkeci — train station
• Eminönü — Spice Bazaar, ferry docks
• Karakoy — connection to Tünel (T), which brings you to the end of Istiklal Caddesi
• Tophane — Witt Istanbul Hotel (walk up the hill), Istanbul Modern, water pipe (nargile) establishments, cruise ship docks
• Kabataş — connection to Taksim via funicular (F1), fast ferry or sea bus docks to the Princes’ Islands and Kadıköy, 5 min. walk to Dolmabahçe Palace

First train: 06:00
Last train: 00:00
Frequency: every two minutes during rush hour

T – Karaköy-Tünel Funicular

T – Karaköy-Tünel.

This is actually the third oldest passenger underground railway system in the world. The look of the trains still reflects this. This funicular takes you in 90 seconds 573 meters uphill to Tünel, at the end of Istiklal Caddesi. From there you can easily reach Galata by walking downhill or have a stroll on Istiklal Caddesi. Alternatively, you could take the nostalgic tramway (NT) until Taksim Square.

First train: 07:00
Last train: 21:00
Frequency: every two minutes

F1 – Taksim-Kabataş Funicular

F1 – Taksim-Kabataş.

In June 2006 this long anticipated connection between Kabataş and Taksim was taken in use. This modern air conditioned funicular ride takes only 2,5 minutes. From Kabataş you can walk to Dolmahbaçe Palace, take the fast ferry boats to Kadıköy or the Princes’ Islands, and connect to the T1 tramway line to Eminönü, Sultanahmet, Grand Bazaar, etc.

First train: 06:15
Last train: 00:00
Frequency: every three minutes during rush hour

M2 – Şişhane-Hacıosman Metro Line

M2 – Şişhane-Hacıosman.

This line, the first real metro Istanbul had, consists of 12 stops over a 17 kilometer stretch. The metro, daily taken by about 250.000 people, is very safe and clean. The most important stops for tourists are:

• Taksim — the place itself, Cihangir, Galata, Witt Istanbul Hotel (walk down the hill), connection to Kabataş via funicular (F1) and Eminönü/Sultanahmet via tramway (T1)
• Osmanbey — a small walk to Nişantaşı, a fashionable shopping area with lots of nice cafés and restaurants
• Levent — shopping centers such as Metrocity, Kanyon, and Akmerkez (additional walk or short taxi ride required)
• İTÜ Ayazağa — İstinye Park shopping center (additional walk or short taxi ride required)

First train: 06:15
Last train: 00:00
Frequency: every four minutes during rush hour

Public Transportation Map for Tourists

Public transportation map for tourists in Istanbul, Turkey.

Photo Sources [1] [2]