In this post I’ll show you how I made this Bench that’s great for Fire Pits.

I made this Fire Pit Bench in an afternoon.  It’s a great real life project, that beginners and advanced beginners can make.  The bench is sturdy and since there is a great space underneath it for firewood it’s practical too.  I also really liked the look and I’m considering make a few more.  Outdoor cedar benches always look so nice, and with a little treatment can last a long time.

I found the plan for this in a book I picked up: Black & Decker Outdoor Wood Furnishings You can get it for pretty cheap at amazon.  I’ve seen the same plan published in other Black & Decker books too.  If you haven’t checked out some of Black & Decker’s woodworking books there definitely a great investment.  I’ve created many projects, and been inspired to build other things based on their plans.

For a little extra help with this project I also put together a video of how I made this below.

Materials

Not a lot for this one.  I used a single board that I was able to pickup at Lowe’s.

• (2)  2″ x 2″ x 8′ – Cedar
• (4)  1″ x 4″ x 8′ – Cedar
• (4)  2″ x 4″ x 8′ – Cedar
• (1)  1″ x 2″ x 8′ – Cedar

Milling & Assembly

	For the bench I chose to make all of my cuts using a miter saw.  Nothing complicated about these cuts.
	To start on the bench the first thing I worked on was creating the sides.
	After building the side frame, I attached side runner boards to the frame to create a more sturdy side.  If you follow the plan it actually uses a more decorative look of running the boards at an angle.  I chose a more simple look.
	I attached three frame boards around the sides.  The top deliberately doesn’t have a board as it will be hidden by the top of the bench.  After I attached the frames, I then flipped the side over and attached a cleat.  The top of the bench will be attached to these.
	After I had the sides assembled, I attached a front board to the side for decorative purposes.Here is a completed side with the cleat on the inside, and the decorative frame on the outside.
	I attached the completed sides to the top of the bench. I used side beams as spacers before attaching them.I attached the top of the bench to the sides and cleats using deck screws.
	For the shelf I attached the shelf boards to a couple of 2×2′s. After building the shelf I attached it to the sides of the bench using deck screws.
	I used a Quick Corners Set marking tool to help with marking the cuts I would make on the corners of the bench.I cut the corners off of the bench using a jig saw to give it a smoother profile.

Finishing

Here is the completed bench. I applied a coat of lacquer to help protect it.

To finish this, I sanded the whole piece using medium grit sandpaper.  I also Broke all of the hard edges with sandpaper.  I applied two coats of an exterior rated lacquer.

Items Used to Finish this

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Hummingbird Feeder

If you’re looking for an easy to build hummingbird feeder this one is perfect.  I made this hummingbird feeder in only a few hours.  I got the plan from a book written by A.J. Hamler.  A.J. is a an excellent woodworker and his book:  Easy to Build Birdhouses – A Natural Approach is a fun one.  I’ve made several projects from this book and I wrote a book review where I have more information if your interested.  The tubes for the feeder you can find in pet stores in the pet bird feeder section.  I wanted to make a few of these so I ordered mine off of Amazon.  The little feeder tubes at the end I ordered online, but I’ve seen these in bird stores too.  I put links at the bottom of this post where you can find some of the items I used to build this.

For a little extra help with this project I also put together a video of how I made this below.

Materials

Not a lot for this one.  I used a single board that I was able to pickup at Lowe’s.

• (2)  2″ x 2″ x 8′ – Cedar
• (4)  1″ x 4″ x 8′ – Cedar
• (4)  2″ x 4″ x 8′ – Cedar
• (1)  1″ x 2″ x 8′ – Cedar

Milling & Assembly

	For the bench I chose to make all of my cuts using a miter saw.  Nothing complicated about these cuts.  The whole thing is made with only 5 boards.
	I used a quick corner marking tool to get my corners for the bottom and top of the feeder.
	For the finish cuts, I did all of them using my band-saw.  You could do these with a jig saw too.  These are simple and quick cuts.
	For the top of the feeder I cut holes all the way through it.  For the bottom of the feeder.  I cut the holes about an inch deep, and then cut another hole for the feeder tubes to slide through.
	I used exterior rated glue and brads to attach the bottom of the feeder to the base and sides.
	For the handle I used a brass piano wire that I picked up at a hobby store.  The sides are bent and go into the sides of the feeder.
	After I had the feeder assembled,  I inserted the Hummingbird Feeder Tubes into the bottom, and then slid the Bird Feeder Tube 8 1/2″ into the feeder tubes.

Finishing

Not a lot to this one.  I did a light sanding with a medium grit sandpaper, and then applied a coat of an exterior lacquer to help protect it form the elements.

Items Used to Finish this

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The first thing I have to say about the Craftsman Orbital Jig Saw is that it’s more rugged and certainly feels more durable.  It’s a little bulkier than some of the other saw’s I’ve use, but it handles very nicely.  The grip handle has a hard rubber feel to it.  It also has a nice feature where you can remove the handle from the top and use the bottom of the drill as a barrel grip.  It has a rotating cut head on the top of the drill.  I haven’t found a use for that yet, but I suppose it’s beneficial to some.  It also has a laser trac attached to it to help with cutting straight lines.

I purchased my Craftsman Orbital Jig Saw 28223 from Sears.  I’ve been using it for a few months now, and it seems really solid.  In fact this is my third jig saw that I’ve owned and is by far my favorite.  It just feels rugged.  I picked mine up for around $70, and also bought a blade holder(it’s definitely “a nice to have”).

Craftsman Blade Holder(not included)

Craftsman Orbital Jig Saw with Laser Trac

Craftsman Orbital Jig Saw with Grip Handle Attached

Craftsman Orbital Jig Saw with LED Work light

• Jig Saw
• 2 blades
• Dust tube
• Hex Key
• Carry Bag
• Manual

Here is some more basic info about the saw:

• Has a 2-in-1 design that allow you to remove the grip handle and use as a barrel grip.
• Has a 6 amp, 800 to 3000 SPM variable speed motor.
• Has Laser Trac
• Has a variable speed based on pressure of handle
• Has 5 cutting modes
  • Scrolling 360
  • Smooth
  • Low
  • Medium
  • Fast
• Bevel cutting capacity 0° to 45° left to right
• Built-in LED Work light
• Blade storage in base
• Carrying Bag

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In this article I’ll show you how I made this Marble Tic-Tac-Toe Game

I made this Marble Tic-Tac-Toe Game in just a few hours.  It’s a great beginner project, and it was really fun to make.  I’ve made a few game pieces now and there quickly becoming some of my favorite projects.  First off there usually quick to make.  Secondly EVERYONE wants one.  Lastly, there just fun.  Your kids, and grand kids will definitely want one.

A nice feature on this board is that the end opens up to store all of the marbles when there not being used.  You won’t Lose Your Marbles with this board!

For a little extra help with this project I also have a free project plan (PDF) that you can check out, and be sure to take a look at my list of other free project plan sites.

Also check out “my attempt” at putting a video together on how to make this below.

Materials

Not a lot for this one.  I used a single board that I was able to pickup at Lowe’s.

• (1)  2″ x 6″ x 4′ – I used untreated pine.

Milling & Assembly

	I cross-cut all of my blocks with a table saw.  I cut a few extras to give away as gifts.
	After finding where my grid lines would be; I used my router table with a V-Groove bit.  I only went just deep enough to achieve a clean line.
	After I cut my grid lines.  I then drew an X in each block to find the center point for each square.  You could really just eye-ball this, but if you want to get a consistent look this is an easy way to ensure that.
	Next up was cutting a hole to store the marbles.  Depending on the width of your marbles you may need to adjust the width and depth for your board.  I needed to go 3″ deep for mine
	I cleaned up all of the grooves and marble holes with sand paper.
	I made an end piece out of a scrap piece of wood.  I rounded it over with a 1/4″ round over bit to give it a cleaner look.  I attached the end piece by first pre-drilling my wood, and then attaching it with a wood screw.

Finishing

To finish this, I sanded the whole piece using medium and then a fine grit sandpaper.  I stained my board with a dark mahogany stain.

The post Marble Tic-Tac-Toe Game appeared first on Wood Logger.

For this project I have a free project plan (PDF) that you can check out.  Also, be sure to check out my list of free project plan web sites too.

Also check out “my attempt” at putting a video together on how to make this below.  Oh, and as always I’ll include some links to items I used to build this at the bottom.

Materials

Not a lot for this one.  I used a single board that I was able to pickup at Lowe’s.

• (1)  1/2″ x 6″ x 4′ – Oak Board (I used Oak, but any hardwood should do)

Milling & Assembly

	I was able to cut all of the boards used in my project with a table saw.  There are only four sides to this box, and nothing complex about this.
	For cutting the rounded sides I first taped my side boards together using painters tape.  I used the Quick Corners Set marking tool to help with that.  After that I flipped over the boards and marked out my slot cuts for the knife to pass through.  I inset it in 1″ and then cut a total of 6 slots every 1/2″.
	To cut off the rounded areas I used a band saw.  I also used my band saw to cut the slots into the boards.  I had to make two passes for each slot to get the desired width needed for the knife to pass through.
	For Assembly I glued up all of my sides using a waterproof glue.  I then clamped it  up and finished it off with a few brads for extra support.

Finishing

To finish this, I sanded all of my boards using a medium and then fine grit sandpaper.  To seal the boards I used a food safe finish called Salad Bowl Finish.  I applied five coats to mine to ensure it will be protected for years to come.

Items used to complete this project

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As always I will put links to some of the things I used at the end of post.  Also check out “my attempt” at putting a video together on how to make this.

Materials

Not a lot for this one.  I actually had a scrap board that was edge glued up.  If I was making one from scratch I would have used simple pine and cut it to length and edge glue it up.

• (1)  3/4″ x 6″ x 6′ Pine Board (cut down and edge glued to width)

Milling & Assembly

	For the board I used a plunge router with a 3/8″ core box router bit.  I used a guide bushing attached to my router base plate.
	For the lumber I was able to use a scrap piece of edge glued board.  I used 3/4″ thick board as that is what I had.  I think 1/2″ would have been a good fit for this as well.
	I used my plunge router with my template and make quick work of all the holes needed for my game board.  I set my depth to approx. 1/4″ in-depth
	After all of my holes were completed on my board, I sanded my game board using a 100 and 150 grit sand paper.
	Here is the completed board.  The whole project took only about 1-2 hours to complete.

Finishing

To finish this, I sanded the board down using 100, and 150 grit paper.  Then I sprayed it with a basic lacquer.  I’ll also paint this with some basic colors that match up to the marble colors.  This should give the board more character and add to the enjoyment of the game.

Items used to complete this project

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Features

• You can buy the kit in either 2 1/2″ or 4″ sizes
• The letters kit includes:  A, A, B, C, D, E, E, F, G, H, I, I, J, K, L, L, M, M, N, N, O, O, P, P, Q, R, R, S, S, T, T, U, V, W, X, Y, Z, ‘, and three spacers
• The numbers kit includes:  ?, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9, 0, 0, !, @, #, $, ‘, ?, ., / and ‘
• Uses a standard plunge router
• Letters interlock with tabs on each letter template

Criticisms

I think my only criticism of this kit is that the included guide bushing is made out of plastic.  Now it may be an okay guide for many, but in my previous experiences with plastic guides is that the bit gets so hot that it actually starts to melt or get’s soft that it doesn’t do well in a template. I decided to just buy a brass guide and use it instead.  Not a big deal, and I did notice that in the new Rockler Interlock Signmaker”s Templates – State Park Font Kit, 2-1/4”” font kit it does include a brass guide.  I’m guessing Rockler must have heard enough feedback about the plastic one.

The Test

Guide Bushing attached to router Router Bit and Brass Guide Bushing	To try out my kit I decided to make a sign of my website for my workshop.  Sounds simple enough just a website name with a .com added to the of it.  The first thing I needed to do was attach my router bit and the guide bushing to my router.  I used a router bit that I picked up from Rockler.  It was the 3/8” Signmaking Carbide Router Bit, with a 1/4” Shank.  For the guide bushing I picked up the Signmaking Brass Bushing – 3/8” ID, 1/2′”.  These weren’t too expensive and worked really well when I made the sign.If you’ve never used a guide bushing before it simply attaches to the bottom of your router’s guide plate. The plate has an indentation that allows the guide to fit in just perfect. I’m not sure if all plates are made compatible, but it worked well with my craftsman router. If you have a router plate with this, I believe you can purchase universal plates that might work.
The kit comes with all the letters, numbers and symbols that you would expect as well as spacers.  When I laid the letters for my sign I had to use the letter O 4x.  The kit only comes with 2 O’s.  I had to partially tape up and route my sign.  This really was easy as I just kept the alignment set with the other letters that were already taped down.  On the letter M I did have to spend a little extra time ensuring that I had it fully routed out.
	After I had the letters in my sign all routed out.  I cut the length of my board on my table saw to a final length.  Then I used a round over bit on the edges of my board.  There are really a lot of options that you can do to your board that this point.  I decided to just do a simple round over.
When it came to finishing the board; I first sanded the entire board front and back.  I didn’t sand into the groove of the letters.  Not sure if that is a “best practice” or not, but it seemed to absorb the finish I did after the sanding.  After sanding I decided to use a method that I came across on the internet.  I first applied a thin layer of lacquer across the entire surface of the board.  After it dried I went and painted my letters with a black enamel paint.  In a previous project I then applied another thin layer of lacquer on top of the paint.  I chose not to do the second layer as I plan on keeping this sign inside.

In Conclusion

My overall review is that I really like this sign making kit!  I would definitely recommend it to anyone who is looking to make wood signs.  I would recommend that you purchase a brass guide bushing & bit at the same time as you’ll want to play with this as soon as you can.  I was able to make my first sign in about an hour.  The second sign I made was done in about 20 minutes.  You’ll be amazed at how easy and fun this kit can be.

Items used to complete this

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I found a free plan recently on the wood magazine site for a battery organizer.  I also have a list of free project plan sites.  This project is really simple and useful.  After completing mine I hung it on a pegboard in my garage.  You can make this is a few hours and it only requires a small amount material.  I was able to find some clear acrylic at a hobby store for cheap.  I also made a video below of how I made mine.  If you make one I’d love to hear about it.

Enjoy….!

Materials

For the lumber on this I was lucky and had some scrap hardwood that I was able to use.  For the rest of the project I was able to build this with only one board.  I made mine out of pine.  For the front of the project I picked up some plexi-glass from a hobby store and cut it down to size using my table saw.

• (1)  1″ x 3″ x 8′ Board (you might be able to squeak this out with a 6′ board, but it’ll be close)
• (1)  1/4″ x 1′ x 1′ piece of hardwood (will cut down to less than 1 foot)
• (1)  1/8″ x 7″ x 8″ plexi-glass

Milling & Assembly

	After cutting all of my boards according to the plan.  I cut a slot on each end board to allow the battery to come out easily.  For mine I used a 2″ forstner bit on my drill press.  It worked pretty well, but you could certainly used a band saw, scroll saw, etc. to get this done.
	Next was the glue up.  For this I made sure that I had my back and bottom already cut.  I used the back as a guide to line up my battery slots.  However, since I didn’t want any glue to make its way to the back board I covered it with wax paper.
	I worked my way through each board by gluing and then shooting brad nails into the bottom.  I could have used screws for this, but since all board stock was only 1/2″ I decided brads were the way to go.
	After gluing and putting in brads on the bottom shelf, I then clamped up the rest of the dividers until the glue set up.
	After everything was glued up, I attached the front of the organizer with a clear plexiglass that I cut to size on my table saw.  Before inserting the screws I pre-drilled all of my holes using a 7/64″ drill bit.  I used #6 – 1/2″ screws to secure the front.  The plan originally called for #8 screws, but my plexiglass was cracking a little too much and I decided to go with #6.
	After attaching the front I then attached the back by using glue and brads.  Attaching the brads was easier as I had pre-marked where the battery dividers were on the back of the backer board.
	Here it is.  The completed project.  This really is a pretty easy one.  You can build this in a few hours.  I completed mine by drilling holes in the top of the back board and hung it on a peg board in my garage.

Finishing

Not a lot to finishing this (this one is going in the garage folks).  In fact I chose to just sand lightly the sides and back, and not apply any finish.

The post Battery Organizer appeared first on Wood Logger.

Materials

For the lumber on this one I was able to pick up a scrap piece of untreated 4×4 in a bargain bin at my local Menard’s.  The board was a little dinged up, but as I needed to trim it down to a 3×3 cube  it worked out really well.

• (1)  3″ x 4″ x 6′ Pine Board trimmed down to 3″x3″x3″

Milling & Assembly

	It all starts with a block of wood.  To get started I cut a scrap piece of 4×4 wood down to a 3×3 cube.  If you make this take you’re time you’ll want to get this as close to true as possible.
	After you have your block the first step is to find the true center of one side.  This is easy enough by just drawing an X across the surface.  Again if you make this you’ll want to really make sure this is on the mark.
	Next up I used a 2″ Forstner bit and setup a stop block on my drill press.  I only drilled into the piece about a 1/4″.  This is done so that you can determine what the depth will eventually be.  I set the speed on my drill press to the slowest speed it could go.
	After the initial drill take a ruler and line it up with the edge of two lines left from your initial X.  This line will determine the depth of your drill press into the work piece.  You’ll want to set your drill press for a little less than the length.  I set mine at about 1/8″ shy of the length.  At this point you’ll also want to mark a small x in 1 corner of each side.  This is done as a guide for when you’re at the drill press to drill in a consistent manner on each side.
	With your drill depth set, the next step is to drill into each side of the cube.  You’ll actually start to see the cube inside after a couple passes.
	After you have drilled into all six sides of your cube you’ll see the cube inside the cube.  It will still be attached to each of the corners of the inside cube.
	With a sharp chisel lightly tap away each corner from the cube.  You’ll hear it snap or click as you do each side.

Finishing

When it came to finishing this one I used a medium grit sandpaper inside and out of the cube.  Sanding wasn’t too bad, but you have to dig into the cube with some sand paper and go at it.  I then used a lighter grit and broke all the corners by sanding them.  After that I applied a stain and sealer to protect it.

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Craftsman 935704 Heavy Duty Drill Kit

I recently purchased a new Craftsman Power Drill DD2100 from Sears.  I’ve been using it for about three weeks now and I have to say so far, I have NO complaints.  In fact I think it’s as solid a drill as I’ve ever used.  The drill came as part of a kit, and I was able to pick it up for $109 (on sale) from Sears.  For the price I think it’s a great bargain.  I was able to replace my old 19.2 cadmium battery-powered drill with a new high-end one for about $100, and since it is part of the Sears C3 line of tools the batteries are interchangeable with other C3 tools.  It also comes with a charger that will still charge my old battery packs.

The drill was actually purchased as part of a kit (model# 935704).  The kit includes the following items:

• DD2100 Heavy Duty Drill/Driver
• CH2030 Multi-Chemistry Charger
• PP2020 XCP 19.2-Volt Compact Lithium-Ion Battery Pack
• 2 Double Ended Screwdriver Bits
• Tool Bag
• Operator’s Manuals

If you’ve read any of my other reviews of Craftsman product then you already know that I have mixed feeling about Craftsman tools.  Craftsman hand tools are hands down the best in the world.  No one beats them, and the warranty they offer.  Power tools on the other hand are a different story.  I think as a general rule high-end Craftsman power tools are usually pretty solid, but if you get the low-end or middle models of a craftsman power tool it’s a bit of a gamble.

Craftsman DD2100 Heavy Duty Drill Driver

The first thing I have to say about the new drill is the size and weight is a big improvement over my old drill.  It’s more compact making it easier to use in tight spaces.  The handle and grip is also wrapped with a soft rubber grip.  Another plus is it just feels more powerful when I’m using it.  The manual states that the new battery technology XCP gives the drill 10% more torque than other lithium batteries.  I’m not sure if it’s the battery, or the fact that my old drill was 12 years old.  Either way it’s a more powerful drill which is always a good thing.  Here is some basic info about the drill:

• Two variable speed gear box with ranges 0-375 / 0-1,600 RPM
• Powerful motor up to 465 in-lbs. with forward and reverse selector
• 24 – position adjustable torque clutch
• 1/2″ all metal, single sleeve keyless chuck
• Micro texture grip
• 19.2 volt compatible lithium-ion battery
• Built-in LED Work light
• 1 year warranty

Craftsman PP2020 XCP 19.2-Volt Compact Lithium-Ion Battery Pack

The new battery technology XCP is supposed to give your 19.2 tools more torque.  More power is almost always a good thing.  Another nice thing is the light that shows you when your battery is getting low.  It switches green to yellow to red to alert you how much energy is left.  Here are some of the features listed about the battery:

• Up to 35% more run time
• Up to 10% more torque
• Extreme Weather Performance (Operates in temperatures from 5° to 158° F)
• Energy indicator light on battery

Craftsman CH2030 Multi-Chemistry Charger

The new charger that is included as part of the kit is also solid.  I’ve used it to charge three different types of batteries.  It’s designed for the 19.2 battery line and it’s really nice that it can handle all the flavors of that voltage.  It has light indicators to tell you what type of battery is being charged and what the status of the battery is.

Overall I really like the entire kit that Sears has put together.  The drill, battery, and charger all seem solid, and they even throw in a storage bag to keep it all in.  The drill feels lite, but strong and I believe will last for many years.  I think if you’re a casual woodworker like me, then this is probably a good fit for you.

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