Woolloomooloo Insider

Why is one of Sydney's most sacred locations neglected?

2017-07-30T22:10:00.000-07:00

(Left) Soldiers' Mothers and Wives Memorial, Cowper Wharf Road Woolloomooloo.

It's long been a concern of ours that the Memorial designed to mark the departure point of our ANZACs has been side-lined and neglected. The story, symbolised by the Memorial, deserves to be better known. Over the years, this Memorial has been so mishandled, it’s no surprise it looks this sad.

The No.1 Gates, Woolloomooloo Wharf, c 1920.

Before aeroplanes carried soldiers round the world, this job was done by ships. Woolloomooloo Wharf, with its deep waters, was the main port of arrival and departure in Sydney. After the carnage of World War I, this fact made the wharf a very special place. Here was the last place Australians saw their loved one, forever.

The set of old wooden gates, called the “No. 1 Gates, Woolloomooloo Wharf” were at the eastern side of the wharf, not far from Fitzroy Stevedores. We imagine soldiers collected at a departure point in the Domain and were followed by their mothers, fathers, wives and lovers, down to these departure gates. After the War they were often referred to as the “Memory Gates” or the “Sacred Gates”.

In years to follow, what happened as a result of this event, was a spontaneous pilgrimage of mourners to these gates. Each ANZAC Day, women pinned wreaths to the gates, as if they were laying flowers on their soldiers' grave. (Few people could afford to travel to the European battlefields).

Women pin wreaths on the No 1 Gate, Woolloomooloo. c 1918

In 1919, the newly formed “Soldiers’ Wives and Mothers Association” began to raise money for the Memorial we have today. It was intentionally installed exactly opposite the No. 1 Gates, where family and friends saw their darlings for the last time. The architect’s, Henry Budden and Carlyle Greenwell, deliberately embedded the Memorial in the sandstone escarpment which rises majestically, spanning the length of Cowper Wharf Rd (east) and Brougham Street.

Here, the Memorial had grandeur and impact. The words inscribed there made sense -
“To commemorate the place of farewell to the Soldiers who passed through the gates opposite for the Great War 1914-1919”. The bronze bubbler in the centre, set against dark green trachyte, is poetic as well as practical (no bottled water for sale back then). It’s as if the water flows from the sandstone, the elixir of life. On Anzac Day families filed past the memorial and the old gates to mourn and lay flowers.

Due to some sad lack of respect (not seen in many countries), the old No.1 Gates were demolished in the 1930s. But it gets worse...glance opposite the Memorial (where it sits today) and you'll see the massive Navy carpark. In the 1970s, the Memorial was moved to make way for a big carpark. A visitor "glancing opposite" on reading the Memorial inscription today, would be forgiven for thinking our Diggers disappeared somewhere in the carpark to go to war.

Opening of the Memorial, 1922

Why were the sacred, Wharf No.1 Gates removed in the 1930s and the Memorial relocated, meaninglessly, in the 1970s? We do know there was a move in the 1930s, by a vocal minority, to make ANZAC Day services a "men only" occasion. Mothers and wives were the stars at this Memorial. Maybe building the Navy carpark was an attempt to secure the land from developers?
It rarely seems to get much use as parking. These are 2 possible reasons.

The Navy carpark as it stands today.

In losing the gates and proper location of the Memorial, we've lost a very important and historic place in Sydney history. It would be fitting if the Navy reinstated a replica of the gates and had the whole site re-worked, with more sensitivity.

In 1927, the Herald summed up the importance of this location perfectly:

“Is there a place in Sydney more filled with poignant memories than the gates down by Woolloomooloo Bay, through which, in the years that have gone, men in their thousands marched to death on a battlefield?”

We think not!

Wall art - 6 of the best murals in Woolloomooloo

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Take a walk to some of our favourite murals around Woolloomooloo.
It's not the complete list, so keep your eyes out for others, all along the way.

Map showing location of murals in this walk

1. "Support" by Fintan Magee, 2014
At the rear entrance of Plunkett Street School, Dowling Street (near corner of Pring St)

Fintan is considered a leading Australian street artist. He often has images of people being supported. He uses a realistic style with surreal imaginery.

2. Sydney Place mural, 1998

A remarkable series of images, based on Aboriginal artwork and a respect for country.

This artwork was created by artist, Danny Eastwood and produced by the youth and community of Woolloomooloo.

If it seems a bit weary due to age and graffiti, look again and go close up.

Weathering has made them even more beautiful.

3 and 4. The Woolloomooloo History Murals (also called The Green Bans Murals), 1982.

Mounted on the railway overpass pylons.

16 murals were funded by residents to celebrate the success of the "Save the Loo" campaign.

They were designed by artists Merilyn Fairske and Michiel Dolk.

This campaign was waged during the 1970s and backed by Builders Labourers Union Bans.

Labourers simply refused to dismantle old Woolloomooloo. These restrictions were called

"Green Bans" and became a model for citizen action all over the world. At the time, Press, Developers and the NSW Government were happy to vilify them.

Not all the murals can be seen in these locations; over half were removed for preservation.

The ones you can see today celebrate the history and struggle for Woolloomooloo, to stay a suburb

for low income workers. The murals are showing signs of age as the artists wished, but many would like to see them fully restored.

For a look at the complete collection of these murals, see the Art Gallery of New South Wales online

Woolloomooloo History Murals, 1982

5. Sydney Council basketball courts mural, by artist Sam Maclean, rear PCYC.

This mural was created by the artist working with Woolloomooloo youth. Images of local sport,

bus 311, a flying pie (it can only be a Harry's Cafe de Wheels pie with potato mash) and our

strong southern sun.

6. Stop Valve Espresso and Bar- creatures wrap mural, Riley Street

Cross William Street and walk east, turn right into Riley Street, then head south till you get to this fabulous mural.

Created by street artist, Heesco as an homage to artist Shaun Tan. It shows a big, huggable creature, with octopus legs and shiny black eyes.

Though you could say you are now in East Sydney or Darlo, remember - it was all called Woolloomooloo once.

Dont miss this other Blog about Sydney history: Sydneyeye

Woolloomooloo Wharf in the Wars

2017-07-14T23:41:00.002-07:00

Before planes came to dominate international transport, Woolloomooloo Wharf was the departure and arrival point for much of Sydney's overseas travellers. Of all the wharves in Sydney, Woolloomooloo was the deepest, able to hold the biggest and heaviest of liners.

Locals lined the wharves to send off their loved ones and greet them on return. The ships carrying troops to the Boer, First and Second World Wars all left from Woolloomooloo Wharf.

The steamship"Moravian"leaving Woolloomooloo Bay January 1900 Photo:AWM

Troops line up at Wharf No 1, Woolloomooloo's present day Finger Wharf in the background. Photo: AWM.

In fact, so strong were the soldiers last memories of farewells at Woolloomooloo Wharf, that they began to sing songs about it.

Song of the 10th Battalion AIF, WWI and WWII

Another favourite was the 1912 song, composed and sung by Herbert Rule, simply called "Woolloomooloo". Click to hear him sing:

Learn more about the history of Sydney's first suburb with this self guided walk.

Download for Green Bans Artwalk