Kim Lapsley Crochets

Micro Rose

noreply@blogger.com (Kim) — Mon, 05 Jan 2015 16:05:00 +0000

So the blog is long overdue for a post … Let’s see, I’ve got a photo of a very small crochet project to share. I’ve got Awesome Mix Vol. 1 turned up loud and on repeat. All nerdy desk ornaments are in order, and dachshund mix, Oscar, has assumed the I-don’t-care-if-you-step-on-me position. Yep, I’m ready. Let’s do this, people.

First off, Happy New Year! I hope you all had a safe end to 2014 and are having a fantastic and creative start to 2015. Here in Perth we are having a stinking hot start to the new year — it was 44°C/111°F today. Let's face it, it’s not the best crochet weather. Progress on my main project, a micro serpent dragon, is very slow -- crochet is on the back burner for me at the moment.

I did, however, manage to finish this piece.

It's a micro rose and was done as a test project for my new 0.35mm hook! I ordered the hook from Mainly Lace. I have to say, I was scared about using it when I first saw it. The neck is incredibly thin and I was sure I would break it on my first go but, to my nerdy-crochet joy, it survived! I’m very pleased with it but I’ll likely keep using my 0.4mm for the bodies of my micro amigurumis and reserve the 0.35mm for embellishments.

The rose bloom was simple to make. I crocheted one row of a basic wave pattern (starting with a foundation chain of 31, *sc, dc, 2dc, dc, sc* five times) which I then rolled and stitched together at the base. It's a common method for making a rose and there are lots of free patterns online that use this rolling technique. Here are a few you might want to take a look at:

Rose Embellishment with Leaves, Oombawka Design
Easy Rose Crochet Pattern, Skip to my Lou
Crochet Roses in 9 Steps, Hachi Yarns

The stem is a chain of about 15. My thread ends from the stem, sepals and leaves were woven back through the stem chain to give it some extra strength. Polyester sewing thread was used. The glass bottle is 2cm/0.8in tall, including the cork. You can find these types of bottles on eBay for a few dollars.

Okay, guys, I will leave it at that. I'll post again when the new micro dragon starts to take significant shape and is more than the lumpy worm it is at the moment. All the best.

K.

Completed Large Blue Head

noreply@blogger.com (Kim) — Wed, 19 Nov 2014 06:34:00 +0000

The large crocheted head I was working on is now complete! I’m pleased with how he's turned out. He's made from acrylic yarn using a 3.0mm hook and is 26cm/10in tall and about 20cm/8in wide.

I can already see some areas I can improve on (forehead, area below the eyes, possibly cheeks ... his left ear is a little dodgy). I think I could have added more shape in the main head piece instead of adding on separate pieces later … the result of bad planning I suspect. I thought about adding eyebrows and eyelashes but was told quite firmly by my trusted advisors that I was to leave him be. He’s going to sit on the bookshelf for a bit while I work on some other projects. Eventually I hope to make more heads in different sizes and colours and with different expressions, but for now, I am going to start on some micro pieces for the shop. It’ll be a nice change of pace. (I recently discovered that there is a smaller hook than my 0.4mm, a 0.35mm! I might have to go place an order …)

K.

WIP Large Blue Head

noreply@blogger.com (Kim) — Sun, 19 Oct 2014 15:18:00 +0000

You know when you pick up a new obsession, it might be a new craft or a game or a book or a TV series, and you spend so much time with this particular obsession that it eventually gets to a point where you close your eyes and you’re actually seeing it or images associated with it imprinted on the back of your eyelids. I’ve reached that point with my current crochet project.

What I’m crocheting at the moment is a large, slightly grumpy, slight creepy, blue head. It’s an exercise to help me with my shaping and I'm having a lot of fun with it. He's still a work in progress. In fact, I’m finding it hard to picture an end point for this guy. I keep thinking of new details I want to add to him so he’ll probably be with me for a while.

His progress photos are below. My biggest victory - the ear! I’m so pleased with it. Honourable mention to his lower lip and chin.

Cheers, guys.

K.

Micro Crochet Dragon

noreply@blogger.com (Kim) — Fri, 26 Sep 2014 12:42:00 +0000

I think everybody is pretty fascinated by dragons when they first hear about them but I think I first fell in love with dragons when I watched the animation The Flight of Dragons when I was a kid in the 80s. It was a pretty awesome movie - it had talking dragons that came in all different types and sizes, as well as wizards, knights, a beautiful princess, James Earl Jones, even a Don McLean song! (You want to find this movie and watch it right now, don't you?) I haven’t seen it in years but I’m guessing the animation may seem clunky by today’s standards. Still, so many fond memories.

Why am I writing about this, you’re asking, well, I’ve made a dragon. He has a wing span of 9cm/3.5in and a of length 9.5cm/3.7in.

Even though he’s not that small, I class him as a micro project. I made him from rayon embroidery thread and polyester thread, using my 0.4mm crochet hook. I used 28 gauge jewellery wire throughout his body and wings so that he can be posed. I found the rayon thread to be quite weak - I had several thread breaks (paired with several minor panic attacks). I liked using the rayon for the wings because it made a nice fabric, it's more flexible than polyester, but I think from now on I’m going to stick mostly to polyester for the micro projects.

Some progress photos:

I’m aiming to make two more dragons by the end of October (I’m thinking black/gold and blue/white at the moment). I’m planning on listing these dragons in my Etsy store when they are done. I’ve also started on the large, disembodied head I mentioned in my last post. I will keep you posted on all projects.

Cheers, guys!

P. S. There is no pattern for this dragon. I will not write up patterns for my micro projects mainly because I don't believe they would translate well into patterns.

Skrillex Doll

noreply@blogger.com (Kim) — Tue, 02 Sep 2014 16:21:00 +0000

Hi, everyone.

It’s late here in Perth, quiet, a little cold. I’ve got my favourite knitted jumper on and I’m listening to a good song (“Shake it Out”, Florence + The Machine). I thought it was a nice moment to start posting again. It’s been a while. I didn’t mean to be away for so long but life kept getting in the way, as it does, and time just moves way too fast.

Since I last posted I haven’t crocheted much but I did manage to finish a doll. It was by request and it was in the likeness of the musician Skrillex. The doll is 45cm tall, made with acrylic yarn and a 2.75mm hook, and has wire throughout the body so it can be posed.

I used stitching to shape the abs and separate crochet pieces for his chest. His torso ended up being covered by his t-shirt but the shaping was more for practice than for anything else.

His hair is brushed out acrylic yarn. I crocheted his eyes using sewing thread and a 0.6mm hook. His glasses are made from wire and are wrapped in black yarn. I used glue and black tape to secure the yarn.

I think he turned out well. I really enjoy crocheting people, especially the faces. I have an urge to crochet a large disembodied head, something large and odd that would go under a glass dome. I might make that my next project after the current one.

Currently I’m working on another micro amigurumi. It’s a red dragon and it’s going well so far. I’ll have photos to post soon.

Okay, I’m going to go and browse some craft sites and listen to some more music.

Wishing you all lots of creative wonderfulness.

K.

Darwin

noreply@blogger.com (Kim) — Tue, 01 Apr 2014 06:53:00 +0000

And here is the pattern for Darwin. He's a talking, walking goldfish from the cartoon The Amazing World of Gumball. I posted the pattern for his best friend Gumball a week or so ago.

Let me know if you have any problems or if you find any mistakes. Cheers, guys. Enjoy!

Darwin

Size
14cm/5.5in tall

Skill Level
Advanced. This pattern requires that you crochet in a spiral and in rows. The head and the tail require you to crochet around a chain. Some parts are quite small. There are several colour changes in the pattern. I recommend these two tutorials on changing yarn colour for beginners: Colour Changes in Amigurumi by June Gilbank and Crocheted Jogless Stripe by NeedleNoodles. I’ve included lots of photos and if you need any help with the pattern, please feel free to contact me.

Note on yarn and hook size
I used DK weight yarn and a 2.75mm hook (US size C, UK size 11) for this pattern. You can use a different weight yarn than DK but it will change the size of your toy. Remember to use the same weight yarn for all parts so that your toy is in proportion. Choose a hook size that will give you a nice tight stitch.

Materials
Yarn
Orange
White
Green
Black

Crochet Hook – 2.75mm
Filling
Tapestry needle
White and Black felt for the eyes and eyebrows
Craft glue and/or thread and sharp needle for attaching felt
Pins
Scissors

Terminology
***This pattern was written using US crochet terminology***
Rnd – Round
sc – Single crochet
sc2tog – Single crochet two stitches together.
sl st – Slip stitch
st – Stitch. This term covers ch, sc, hdc, sl st and other stitches used in crochet.

Make a ring – The starting point for crocheting in a spiral. There are several methods. If you’ve never crocheted in a spiral before, Google crochet magic ring and this will lead you to some tutorials on how to get started.
* * - Repeat the instructions between the asterisks as directed.
( ) – The number of stitches that should be in a completed round are placed in brackets at the end of that round’s instructions.

Instructions

Head (in Orange)
Instead of crocheting in a ring, the tail is made by crocheting around a chain.

When crocheting around a chain, you work in the loops of the chain. These are highlighted in purple in the photo above. The crosses show where you'll place the single crochets and the oval shows where you’ll make a chain in the first round. If you're having difficulty, this tutorial I made a while back may help you out.

Chain 6.
Rnd 1: Working in the back loops of the chain, sc in second st from the hook, sc in next 4 st, chain 1, turn the work around 180 degrees so that you can work in the unworked loops of the stitches, sc in next 6 st (12)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next st (16)
Rnd 3: 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next 4 st, sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next 2 st (24)
Rnd 4: *sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next st* around (30)
Rnd 5: *sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next st* around (36)
Rnd 6: *sc in next 5 st, 2 sc in next st* around (42)
Rnd 7: *sc in next 6 st, 2 sc in next st* around (48)
Rnd 8-12: sc in each st around
Rnd 13: sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next 6 st, sc in next 28 st, 2 sc in next 6 st, sc in next 4 st (60)
Rnd 14-18: sc in each st around
Rnd 19: sc in next 4 st, sc2tog six times, sc in next 28 st, sc2tog six times, sc in next 4 st (48)
Rnd 20: *sc in next 6 st, sc2tog* around (42)
Rnd 21: *sc in next 5 st, sc2tog* around (36)
Rnd 22: *sc in next 4 st, sc2tog* around (30)
Start stuffing.
Rnd 23: *sc in next 3 st, sc2tog* around (24)
Rnd 24: *sc in next 2 st, sc2tog* around (18)
Rnd 25: *sc in next st, sc2tog* around (12)
Finish stuffing firmly.
Rnd 26: sc2tog around (6)
Cut yarn and weave end through remaining stitches. Pull tight to close up hole. Weave in yarn end.

Arms (in Orange)
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 7 sc in ring
Rnd 2-6: sc in each st around
Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn to use when attaching the arms to the body. Leave unstuffed. Make two.

Legs (in White, Green and Orange)
Stuff the legs as you go but leave the top part unstuffed.

Start with White.
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3-4: sc in each st around
Change to Green
Rnd 5-7: sc in each st around
Four short rows are now worked to make a flap which will form the heel of the foot.
Turn your work, sc in the last 6 st made in rnd 7
Turn, sc in next 6 st
Turn, sc in next 6 st
Turn, sc in next 6 st
The foot should now look like this.

The white yarn marks the first stitch made in rnd 7.

Rnd 8: Insert the hook into the middle of the side of the flap (marked by the cross on the right in picture below) and pull up a loop, insert hook into the next sc at the bottom of the flap (marked by the cross on the left) and pull up a loop, pull yarn through all three loops on the hook to make first st of the round.

"Pull yarn through all three loops on the hook to make first stitch of the round."

Sc in next 4 st. Insert hook in next st (marked by cross on the right in picture below), pull up a loop, insert hook into the middle of the side of the flap (marked by cross on the left in picture below) and pull up a loop, pull yarn through all three loops on the hook to complete the stitch.

Sc in next 6 st (12)

Rnd 9: *sc in next 4 st, sc2tog* twice (10)
Rnd 10-11: sc in each st around
Change to White.
Rnd 12-13: sc in each st around
Change to Orange
Rnd 14-21: sc in each st around
Rnd 22: *sc in next 3 st, sc2tog* twice (8)
Rnd 23-25: sc in each st around
Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn to use when attaching the legs to the body. Make two.

Tail (in Orange)
Like the head, the tail is made by working around a chain.

Chain 7.
Rnd 1: Working in the back loops of the chain, sc in second st from the hook, sc in next 5 st, chain 1, turn the work around 180 degrees so that you can work in the unworked loops of the stitches, sc in next 7 st (14)
Rnd 2-3: sc in each st around
Rnd 4: *sc in next 5 st, sc2tog* twice (12)
Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn to use when attaching the tail to the body. Leave unstuffed.

Now is a good time to stitch in the black lines on the tail. Take a length of Black yarn and thread it through from the inside of the tail to the outside, as shown below.

When you’ve finished stitching in the lines, thread the yarn back through the tail. Tie the two yarns ends together to secure them. Trim the ends and hide inside the tail.

Assembly
***These are guidelines only. Be guided by your own eyes at all times.***

Join the legs to the body. Darwin’s legs come together with the toes of his shoes turned out. I find the easiest way to join them to the body is to pin them on as though Darwin is sitting down, doing the splits. Use the yarn ends on the legs to stitch them to the head.

Join the arms to the body. Stitch on using the yarn ends left on the arms.

Join the tail to the head. Pin the tail onto the head as shown below and stitch on using the yarn end left on the tail.

Make and attach the eyes. I like using felt and for me it was the easiest way to make the eyes. If you don’t like using felt, you could try crocheting the eyes. I would recommend using a thinner yarn and smaller hook than used for the body. Also, if you’re comfortable with using fabric paint, I think it would work really well with this project, not only for the eyes but also for the eyebrows.

Darwins eyes are rounded rectangles and are quite thin. Cut out two large rounded rectangles from white felt. Mine were about seven rows tall but cut them to a size that feels right to you. The cartoon uses different eye shapes for Darwin and Gumball, so don’t be afraid to play around with the shape a bit. You can cut out a paper template first to help you out. Cut two slightly smaller and thinner rounded rectangles from black felt for the pupils. Attach the pupils onto the white rectangles using black thread and a needle or glue.

Pin the eyes close together ono the head and use white thread and a needle or glue to attach them.

Make and attach the eyebrows. Cut two small curved oblong shapes from black felt. Glue or stitch on above the eyes. If you prefer you could use black yarn to stitch in the eyebrows instead of making them out of felt.

Stitch on mouth. Use black yarn to make a line underneath the eyes.

Use pins to position the yarn into a smile.

Use black thread and a needle to stitch the yarn into place.

Use the same method to make the smile lines at the side of Darwin’s mouth.

Stitch in the eyelashes. Use black yarns to stitch in three short lines near the top of the eyes. If you have it on hand, you might like to use embroidery thread instead of yarn.

Stitch in the sneaker highlights. Stitch the highlights onto the side of Darwin’s shoes using white yarn.

Now you have your own Darwin! Did you make Gumball as well? Have fun with them, guys!

Gumball

noreply@blogger.com (Kim) — Sun, 23 Mar 2014 06:23:00 +0000

This is a pattern for Gumball, the wacky blue cat who stars in the cartoon The Amazing World of Gumball. It’s a favourite of my nieces and I made this guy as a present for the youngest. Gumball’s best friend is a goldfish named Darwin, whose pattern is now on the blog.

Let me know if you have any problems. Enjoy!

Gumball

Size
18cm/7in tall

Skill Level
Advanced. Please read through the pattern before you begin. This pattern requires that you crochet in a spiral and in rows. The muzzle, legs and arms require you to crochet around a chain. Some parts are quite small. There are several colour changes in the pattern. I recommend these two tutorials on changing yarn colour: Colour Changes in Amigurumi by June Gilbank and Crocheted Jogless Stripe by NeedleNoodles. I’ve included lots of photos and if you need any help with the pattern, please feel free to contact me.

Note on yarn and hook size
I used DK weight yarn and a 2.75mm hook (US size C, UK size 11) and a 2.0mm hook ( US size 1/B, UK size 14) for this pattern. You can use a different weight yarn than DK but it will change the size of your toy. Remember to use the same weight yarn for all parts so that your toy is in proportion. Choose a hook size that will give you a nice tight stitch.

Materials
Yarn
Blue
Brown
Beige
Dark Grey
Powder Blue
Black for the whiskers and paws
White for the tooth and belt buckle
Maroon for the nose

Crochet Hook – 2.75mm and 2.0mm
Filling
Tapestry needle
White and Black felt for the eyes and eyebrows
Craft glue and/or thread and sharp needle for attaching felt
Pins
Scissors

Terminology
***This pattern was written using US crochet terminology***
Rnd – Round
sc – Single crochet
sc2tog – Single crochet two stitches together.
sl st – Slip stitch
st – Stitch. This term covers ch, sc, hdc, sl st and other stitches used in crochet.

Make a ring – The starting point for crocheting in a spiral. There are several methods. If you’ve never crocheted in a spiral before, Google crochet magic ring and this will lead you to some tutorials on how to get started.
* * - Repeat the instructions between the asterisks as directed.
( ) – The number of stitches that should be in a completed round are placed in brackets at the end of that round’s instructions.

Instructions

Head (in Blue with 2.75mm hook)
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st* around (18)
Rnd 4: *sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st* around (24)
Rnd 5: *sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next st* around (30)
Rnd 6: *sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next st* around (36)
Rnd 7: *sc in next 5 st, 2 sc in next st* around (42)
Rnd 8: *sc in next 6 st, 2 sc in next st* around (48)
Rnd 9-16: sc in each st around
Rnd 17: sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next 6 st, sc in next 28 st, 2 sc in next 6 st, sc in next 4 st (60)
Rnd 18-22: sc in each st around
Rnd 23: sc in next 4 st, sc2tog six times, sc in next 28 st, sc2tog six times, sc in next 4 st (48)
Rnd 24: *sc in next 6 st, sc2tog* around (42)
Rnd 25: *sc in next 5 st, sc2tog* around (36)
Rnd 26: *sc in next 4 st, sc2tog* around (30)
Start stuffing.
Rnd 27: *sc in next 3 st, sc2tog* around (24)
Rnd 28: *sc in next 2 st, sc2tog* around (18)
Rnd 29: *sc in next st, sc2tog* around (12)
Finish stuffing firmly.
Rnd 30: sc2tog around (6)
Cut yarn and weave end through remaining stitches. Pull tight to close up hole. Weave in yarn end.

Body (in Blue, Brown, Beige and Dark Grey with 2.75mm hook)
Start with Blue
Chain 16, leaving a long tail at the beginning of the chain. This will be used to join the body to the head.

Leave a long tail at beginning of chain to use for joining.

Single crochet in first chain made.

Rnd 1: Sc in first chain made, making a large ring. Sc in each chain around (16)
Change to Brown.
Rnd 2-3: sc in each st around
Change to Beige.
Rnd 4-10: sc in each st around
Rnd 11: *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st* around (24)
Rnd 12: sc in each st around
Change to Dark Grey.
Rnd 13: sc in each st around
Rnd 14: *sc in next st, sc2tog* around (16)
Rnd 15: sc2tog around (8)
Cut yarn and weave end through remaining stitches. Pull tight to close up hole. Weave in yarn end. Stuff firmly.

Arms (in Blue, Brown and Beige with 2.75mm hook)
For the arms, instead of crocheting in a ring, I like to begin by crocheting around a chain. This gives a slightly squarer paw. If you’re not comfortable with crocheting around a chain, you can start with a ring as normal.

When crocheting around a chain, you work in the loops of the chain. These are highlighted in purple in the photo above. The crosses show where you'll place the single crochets and the oval indicates where you make the chain in the first round. If you're having difficulty, this tutorial I made a while back may help you out.

Start with Blue.
Chain 3.
Rnd 1: Working in the back loops of the chain, sc in second st from the hook, sc in next st, chain 1, turn the work around 180 degrees so that you can work in the unworked loops of the stitches, sc in next 3 st (6)
Rnd 2: sc in each st around (6)
Change to Brown.
Rnd 3: sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st (7)
Rnd 4-5: sc in each st around
Change to Beige.
Rnd 6-10: sc in each st around
Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn to use when attaching the arms to the body. Leave unstuffed. Make two.

Legs (in Blue, Beige and Dark Grey with 2.75mm hook)
Like the arms, I start the legs by crocheting around a chain. Again, if you prefer, you can start the legs by crocheting in a ring. Stuff the legs as you go but leave the top part unstuffed.

Start with blue.
Chain 3.
Rnd 1: Working in the back loops of the chain, sc in second st from the hook, sc in next st, chain 1, turn the work around 180 degrees so that you can work in the unworked loops of the stitches, sc in next 3 st (6)
Rnd 2: sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st (7)
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st (8)
Rnd 4: sc in each st around
Some short rows are now worked to make a flap which will make the heel of the foot.
Turn your work, sc in the last 4 st made in rnd 4
Turn, sc in next 4 st
The foot should now look like this. The white yarn marks the first stitch made in round 4 --

Rnd 5: Insert the hook into the middle of the side of the flap and pull up a loop, insert hook into the next sc at the bottom of the flap and pull up a loop, pull yarn through all three loops on the hook to make first st of the round.

Insert hook in side of the flap.

Sc in next 2 st. Insert hook in next st, pull up a loop, insert hook into the middle of the side of the flap and pull up a loop, pull yarn through all three loops on the hook to complete the stitch. Sc in next 4 st (8)

The white cross indicates where to insert the hook in the flap.

Change to Beige.
Rnd 6-7: sc in each st around
Change to Dark Grey.
Rnd 8-11: sc in each st around
Rnd 12: sc2tog, sc in next 6 st (7)
Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn to use when attaching the legs to the body. Make two.

Ears (in Blue with 2.75mm hook)
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring
Rnd 2: *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st* around (9)
Rnd 3: *sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st* around (12)
Rnd 4: *sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next st* around (15)
Rnd 5: *sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next st* around (18)
Rnd 6: sc in each st around.
Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn to use when attaching the ears to the head. Leave unstuffed. Make two.

Tail (in Blue with 2.75mm hook)
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring
Rnd 2: *sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st* twice (8)
Rnd 3-4: sc in each st around
Rnd 5: sc2tog, sc in next 6 st (7)
Rnd 6: sc in each st around
Rnd 7: sc2tog, sc in next 5 st (6)
Rnd 8: sc in each st around
Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn to use when attaching the tail to the body. Leave unstuffed.

Muzzle (in Powder Blue with 2.0mm hook)*
Last time … the muzzle starts by crocheting around a chain. Refer to the picture in the arm section to see where the stitches are made when crocheting around a chain.

Chain 3.
Rnd 1: Working in the back loops of the chain, sc in second st from the hook, sc in next st, chain 1, turn the work around 180 degrees so that you can work in the unworked loops of the stitches, sc in next 3 st (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)
Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn to use when attaching the muzzle to the head.

Now is a good time to stitch the nose onto the muzzle. Take a length of Maroon yarn and stitch the nose on close to the outer edge of the muzzle. To secure the yarn ends, tie them in a knot and trim so that the knot fits neatly inside the muzzle.

Tie knot to secure yarn ends.

* The muzzle in the photos may look a little different from yours. This is because I couldn’t find a DK weight yarn in powder blue so I used a thinner yarn and added a third even round. Just wanted to let you know in case you found it confusing.

Assembly
***These are guidelines only. Be guided by your own eyes at all times.***

Join the head to the body. Centre the body over the closed opening of the head. Pin it in place and stitch on using the yarn end left on the body.

Join the arms to the body. Pin the arms to the body just below the brown line and stitch on using the tail ends left on the arms.

Join the legs to the body. Pin the legs onto the bottom part of the body so that it looks like Gumball is sitting. I’ve found this makes it easier to position and stitch them on. Use the yarn ends on the legs to stitch them on.

Join the ears to the head. Gumball’s ears sit quite far back so you want the ears to sit a little bit back from the centre of the top of the head. Pin to the head and stitch them on using the yarn ends on the ears.

Join the tail to the bottom. Pin the tail near the top of the dark grey area, Gumball’s pants, and stitch on using the yarn end left on the tail.

Join the muzzle to the head. The muzzle sits between the top of the cheeks. It should be slightly angled. Pin to the head and stitch on using the yarn end on the muzzle.

Make and attach the eyes. I like using felt and for me it was the easiest way to make the eyes. If you don’t like using felt, you could try crocheting the eyes. I would recommend using a thinner yarn and smaller hook than used for the body. Also, if you’re comfortable with using fabric paint, I think it would work really well with this project, not only for the eyes but also for the whiskers and eyebrows.

Gumball’s eyes are a rounded rectangular shape. Cut out two large rounded rectangles from white felt. Mine were about eight rows tall but cut them to a size that feels right to you. You can cut out a paper template first to help you out. Cut two smaller and thinner rounded rectangles from black felt for the pupils.

Attach the pupils onto the white rectangles using black thread and a needle or glue.

Pin the eyes close together above the muzzle and attach to the head using white thread and a needle or glue.

Make and attach the eyebrows. Cut two small oblong shapes from black felt. Glue or stitch on above the eyes. If you prefer you could use black yarn to stitch in the eyebrows instead of making them out of felt.

Stitch in the whiskers using black yarn. Gumball has three whiskers on each cheek. To guide you when you’re stitching, you can use pins to plot out the position of the whiskers first.

Stitch in the muzzle line using black yarn.

Stitch in the paw lines using black yarn. There are two lines on each paw.

Stitch in Gumball’s tooth with white yarn. The tooth sits below the raised end of the muzzle.

Stitch in Gumball’s buckle with white yarn.

And that's it! You’ve finished Gumball! Congratulations! Now, what should we make next … Darwin!!

Baby Fish

noreply@blogger.com (Kim) — Thu, 27 Feb 2014 13:32:00 +0000

Nemette is the purple one, Babette the gold one ... and of course there's Garth.

Walter and Marilyn have been listening to too much Barry White. I warned them this would happen. They’ve gone and had some babies. Meet Nemette and Babette, their twin girls. That pouty bottom lip of theirs pretty much ensures they get whatever they want from their moustachioed Dad. Oh, and the other guy with the light lure/dongle thingy is Garth. He’s half goldfish, half angler fish and he will bite you if you look at him for too long. In fact, we better stop talking about him before he notices. Let’s move on to the pattern.

The lip I used for these guys was inspired by an amazing design, Henri Le Frog, from Il Dikko. There are some beautiful crochet patterns in this Etsy store. Go check it out if you have the time.

Baby Fish

Size
7.5cm/3in long when made with a 2.75mm hook and DK weight yarn

Skill Level
Easy to Moderate. All the parts are crocheted in the round in a spiral. The pattern is quite straightforward but some of the parts are quite small and this may make them a little tricky to crochet.

Note on yarn and hook size
I used DK weight yarn and a 2.75mm hook (US size C, UK size 11) for this pattern. You can use a different weight yarn than DK but it will change the size of your toy. Remember to use the same weight yarn for all parts so that your toy is in proportion. Choose a hook size that will give you a nice tight stitch.

Materials
Yarn
You’ll need white yarn for the eyes. I won’t specify any other colours for this pattern. Choose whichever colours you think will suit best.

Crochet Hook – 2.75mm or preferred size
Filling
Tapestry needle
Black felt for the eyes
Craft glue and/or thread and sharp needle for attaching felt
Pins
Scissors

Terminology
***This pattern was written using US crochet terminology***
dc – Double Crochet
ch – Chain
Rnd – Round
sc – Single crochet
sc2tog – Single crochet two stitches together.
sl st – Slip stitch
st – Stitch. This term covers ch, sc, hdc, sl st and other stitches used in crochet.

Make a ring – The starting point for crocheting in a spiral. Use which ever method you prefer.
* * – Repeat the instructions between the asterisks as directed.
( ) – The number of stitches that should be in a completed round are placed in brackets at the end of that round’s instructions.

Instructions

Body
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st* around (18)
Rnd 4: *sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st* around (24)
Rnd 5-8: sc in each st around
Rnd 9: *sc in next 4 st, sc2tog* around (20)
Rnd 10: *sc in next 3 st, sc2tog* around (16)
Rnd 11: *sc in next 2 st, sc2tog* around (12)
Start stuffing.
Rnd 12-13: sc in each st around
Rnd 14: sc2tog around (6)
Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn. Finish stuffing firmly. Flatten the opening and stitch it closed. Weave in yarn end.

Tail Fins
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring (6)
Rnd 2-3: sc in each st around
Rnd 4: 2 sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 5: sc in each st around
Rnd 6: sc2tog around (6)
Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn to use when joining the fins to the tail. Leave unstuffed. Make two.

Side fins
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring (6)
Rnd 2: sc in each st around
Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn to use when joining the fins to the body. Leave unstuffed. Make two.

Lip
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st* around (18)
Rnd 4: *sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st* around (24)
Rnd 5: sc in each st around
Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn to use for joining.

Eyes (in White)
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in each st around
Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn to use when joining the eyes to the body. The eyes will be stuffed when you join them to the body. Make two.

Dorsal Fin
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 5 sc in ring (5)
Rnd 2: sc in each st around
Rnd 3: 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st (6)
Rnd 4: *sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st* twice (8)
Rnd 5: dc in next 4 st, sc in next 4 st (8)
Rnd 6: dc in next 4 st, sl st in next 4 st (8)
Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving tail to use when joining. Leave unstuffed.

Angler Fish Light Lure
If you want to make an angler fish like Garth, here’s the pattern for his little light lure, dongle thingy.
Start with yellow yarn.
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: sc2tog around (6)
Change to yarn the same colour as your fish.
Rnd 4 -14: sc in each st around
Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn to use for joining. Leave unstuffed.

Attach the light lure, dongle thingy to the fish’s head, in-between the eyes. You may have noticed that Garth doesn’t have a dorsal fin. You can choose to give your fish a dorsal fin if you like. Do whatever you fancy … it is your fish after all … but you have to have fun while you’re making it or else your fish will turn evil, eat all your yarn, destroy all your other amigurumi and haunt your dreams. True story.

Assembly
***These are guidelines only. Be guided by your own eyes at all times.***

A general warning first. This guy is small so be careful not to jab yourself when you pin the parts together before joining. The pins can go right through and catch you unawares on the other side of fish.

Join the tail fins to the tail. Each fin sits on one of the corners of the flattened edge of the tail. Use the yarn ends on the fins to stitch them on.

Join the side fins to the body. Pin the fins to the body, making sure they’re evenly spaced. Stitch on using the tail ends on the fins.

Join the lip to the body. Pin on to the front of the body, in-between the side fins. Stitch up one side of the lip, then when you reach the top of the lip, stitch the underside of the lip to the body instead of stitching over the edge of the lip. This allows the lip to curl over. When you reach the other side, you can start stitching over the edge again. Refer to the photos to help you out here.

Join the eyes to the body. The eyes sit close together, above the lip. Pin them on. Start stitching on around the eye using the tail end on the eye.

Before you’ve stitched all the way around, stop and stuff the eye. After you've stuffed the eye, finish stitching it down.

Join the dorsal fin to the body. It sits just behind the eyes. Pin to the body and stitch on using the tail end on the fin.

Make and add the pupils. Cut two small circle from black felt for the pupils. Cut two even smaller circle from white felt for the highlights. Stitch or glue the white circles on to the black circles. Pin to the eyes of the fish and glue or stitch on using needle and thread.

Now you have your own baby fish. I wonder what coochie-coochie-coo is in fish …

Copyright © Kim Lapsley 2014

Nanny Ogg

noreply@blogger.com (Kim) — Fri, 14 Feb 2014 04:46:00 +0000

This is a Nanny Ogg doll I made as a surprise for a lovely friend who is a fellow Discworld fan. I’ve been working away on her for a few months and, I have to say, I’ve never been so proud of one of my projects.

Nanny Ogg is a saucy ol’ witch from Terry Pratchett’s brilliant Discworld series. If you don’t know who Sir Terry is or what a Discworld is, then you need to stop reading this and go find out because you’re missing out on something wonderful. No, I’m serious. Go do it. Now. Don’t make me use my scary voice … but come back when you’re done so you can check out the doll.

I based the doll on Paul Kidby’s illustrations of Nanny Ogg because when I picture Nanny it’s Paul Kidby’s version I see. I think his interpretations of the Discworld characters are flawless.

All the clothes are removable. She has a dress, apron, cape and stockings. I also gave her a pipe and a scumble (apple cider moonshine) jug. I’d planned on taking lots of progress photos but I was so engrossed in making her I forgot to stop to take pictures. Hopefully you can get an idea of how I constructed her from the two I managed to take.

This project was fun and challenging and made with love. It really was just the perfect project. I hope you guys like her.

I was particularly proud of the boots.

‘Gytha, is there anything in the whole world you can’t make sound grubby?’
‘Not found it yet, Esme,’ said Nanny brightly.

Micro Crochet Grizzly Bear

noreply@blogger.com (Kim) — Mon, 10 Feb 2014 12:41:00 +0000

This is my micro grizzly. He is 2cm/0.8in tall. I made him with polyester sewing thread and a 0.4mm crochet hook. I'm not sure how I feel about him. Sometimes I love him, sometimes I think he could be better. I'm going to try and make him a salmon to play with. If I can pull off the salmon, I'll probably like him more.

Below are the progress photos for the grizzly. I hope this gives you a better idea of what goes into making one of these tiny projects.

The pieces can be quite stiff and the edges can sometimes curl out
so every now and then I use tweezers to shape and stretch my work.

I use tweezers and the tip of my embroidery scissors to help me stuff my micros.

I like to use wire in my micros. I use the fine copper wires found in electrical wire.

Grrrrr ...

Elf Bombing

noreply@blogger.com (Kim) — Tue, 24 Dec 2013 09:48:00 +0000

Today seemed like a good day to do some elf bombing. I didn’t make as many elves as I had hoped - only four little guys - but hopefully this small gang will be able to spread some cheer this Christmas Eve.

The first two were left at bus stops. They seem kind of desperate to get a ride. I hope they make it back home in time.

The third elf was looking to earn a few bucks before the season was out. I dropped him off near some amazing street art.

The fourth and final elf just needed a place to chill. We found him a nice spot in the park.

Have an absolutely magical day tomorrow, everyone! Merry Christmas!

Berg the Christmas Elf

noreply@blogger.com (Kim) — Tue, 03 Dec 2013 12:02:00 +0000

This is Berg the Christmas Elf. He communicates solely by waggling his ears, loves his morning cup of coffee and collects chocolate covered marshmallows that look like Santa. He’s not as good at acrobatics as his fellow Christmas elves but he makes up for this by having an astounding ability to bounce no matter which way he falls. His heroes, besides Santa Claus, are Dr Seuss, Rosemary Clooney and Jimmy Durante.

After decorating my house this weekend, I had a sudden urge to make a Christmas themed pattern and so Berg was born. His high hat and ears were originally inspired by the elves from Rise of the Guardians but I wanted him to look more like a dumpling. I kinda think he looks a little like the Mayor from Nightmare Before Christmas but that might just be me.

I know there are quite a few free elf patterns out there so I thought I would share the love. Here are some patterns you might also like to check out:
Santa’s Elf by Sue Pendleton
Shelf Elf by Jill Watt
Lily the Christmas Elf from yarninspirations.com
Elf by Amanda Critchley

Good luck with the holiday season, everyone! Take it easy, don’t stress, and enjoy the season!

I've made a change to the pattern. Instead of lightly stuffing the feet, leave them unstuffed. Your elf will stand better this way and won't tumble around like someone tipsy on eggnog.

Berg the Christmas Elf

Size
11cm/4.3in tall when made with DK yarn and 2.75mm hook

Skill Level
Moderate. This pattern requires that you crochet in a spiral and in rows. There are several colour changes in the pattern. I recommend these two tutorials on changing yarn colour: Colour Changes in Amigurumi by June Gilbank and Crocheted Jogless Stripe by NeedleNoodles. The colours in the patterns are suggestions only so feel free to experiment. If you don’t feel like crocheting the ears or the eyes, felt would work great for both.

Note on yarn and hook size
I used DK weight yarn and a 2.75mm hook (US size C, UK size 11) for this pattern. You can use a different weight yarn than DK but it will change the size of your toy. Remember to use the same weight yarn for all parts so that your toy is in proportion. Choose a hook size that will give you a nice tight stitch.

Materials
Yarn
Peach
Red
Black
Green
Gold
White

Crochet Hook – 2.75mm or preferred size
Filling
Tapestry needle
Black felt for the eyes
Craft glue and/or thread and sharp needle for attaching felt
Pins
Scissors

Terminology
***This pattern was written using US crochet terminology***
ch – Chain
Rnd – Round
sc – Single crochet
sc2tog – Single crochet two stitches together.
sl st – Slip stitch
st – Stitch. This term covers ch, sc, hdc, sl st and other stitches used in crochet.

Make a ring – The starting point for crocheting in a spiral. Use which ever method you prefer.
* * - Repeat the instructions between the asterisks as directed.
( ) – The number of stitches that should be in a completed round are placed in brackets at the end of that round’s instructions.

Instructions

Body (in Peach, Red, Black and Green)
Start with Peach.
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: *sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st* around (16)
Rnd 4: *2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st* around (20)
Rnd 5: *sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next st* around (24)
Rnd 6: *2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st* around (28)
Rnd 7: *sc in next 6 st, 2 sc in next st* around (32)
Rnd 8-9: sc in each st around
Change to Red.
Rnd 10: sc in each st around
Change to Black.
Rnd 11: sc in each st around
Rnd 12: *sc in next 7 st, 2 sc in next st* around (36)
Change to Green.
Rnd 13-14: sc in each st around
Rnd 15: *sc in next 4 st, sc2tog* around (30)
Rnd 16: *sc in next 3 st, sc2tog* around (24)
Start stuffing.
Rnd 17: *sc in next 2 st, sc2tog* around (18)
Rnd 18: *sc in next st, sc2tog* around (12)
Finish stuffing firmly.
Rnd 19: sc2tog around (6)
Cut yarn and weave end through remaining stitches. Pull tight to close up hole. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Hat (in Gold, Green and Red)
Start with Gold.
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: sc2tog around (6)
Change to Green.
Rnd 4: sc in each st around
Rnd 5: *sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st* twice (8)
Rnd 6-7: sc in each st around
Rnd 8: *sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next st* twice (10)
Rnd 9-10: sc in each st around
Rnd 11: *sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next st* twice (12)
Rnd 12: sc in each st around
Rnd 13: *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st* around (18)
Rnd 14: *sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st* around (24)
Rnd 15-16: sc in each st around
Change to Red.
Rnd 17-20: sc in each st around
Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a long tail of yarn. This yarn tail will be used to stitch down the red cuff of the hat and to attach the hat to Berg’s head. Weave in all other yarn ends. Leave unstuffed.

Feet (in Red)
I've made a change in the pattern. Instead of stuffing the feet, leave them unstuffed. Your elf will be able to stand more easily this way. Attach them the same way as show in the photos. The only difference is they will be flatter.

Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring (6)
Rnd 2-3: sc in each st around
Rnd 4: sl st in next 3 st, 2 sc in next 3 st (9)
Rnd 5: sl st in next 3 st, *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st* three times (12)
Rnd 6-11: sc in each st around
Rnd 12: sc2tog around (6)
Cut yarn and weave end through remaining stitches. Pull tight to close up hole. Leave a tail of yarn to use later when attaching the feet to the body. Make two.

Arms (in Red)
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring (6)
Rnd 2-4: sc in each st around
Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn to use when attaching the arms to the body. Leave unstuffed. Make two.

Ears (in Peach)
Chain 4.
Row 1: sl st in 2nd chain from the hook, sc in next st, 2 sc in last st
Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn to use when attaching the ears to the head. Make two.

Big Eye (in White)
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)
Sl st in next st and pull through yarn. Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn.

Small Eye (in White)
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring (6)
Sl st in next st and pull through yarn. Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn.

You can now attach a small circle of black felt to each eye to make the pupils, using needle and thread or glue. They should sit off-centre, close to the edge of the eye.

Assembly
***These are guidelines only. Be guided by your own eyes at all times.***

Join the eyes to the body. The eyes sit close together immediately above the red line on the body. Attach using the tail ends on the eyes.

Join the hat to the body. Fold up the red part of the hat to form a cuff. Stitch down the cuff with the tail of yarn then thread the yarn out through the bottom edge of the cuff. Pin to the head and stitch on.

Join the arms to the body. The arms sit on the red line on the body. Pin on and attach using the yarn ends on the arms.

Join the feet to the body. Pin the feet to the body and stitch on using the yarn ends on the feet.

Join the ears to the head. The ears sit just below the hat. Stitch on using the yarn ends left on the ears.

Add the buckle. To make the buckle, take a length of gold or yellow yarn and stitch in a square over the black line on the body.

Your Christmas Elf is complete! Deck the halls with elves and more elves, fa la la la la, la la la la!

Copyright © Kim Lapsley 2013

Video Tutorial for Egmont's Umbrella

noreply@blogger.com (Kim) — Sat, 02 Nov 2013 11:14:00 +0000

A request was made for a video tutorial for Egmont's Umbrella. Here it is! This is the first video tutorial I've done and I was pretty nervous so I might sound a little serious. If anything is unclear, please let me know. I recommend reading over the written tutorial first.

Part 1
0:14 Crochet the canopy
0:41 Stitching in the ridges
3:48 Weaving in the yarn ends
5:27 Making the wire stem

Part 2
0:05 Attaching the handle and wrapping the stem
5:40 Attaching the stem to the canopy

The Oddball Mummy

noreply@blogger.com (Kim) — Wed, 23 Oct 2013 10:16:00 +0000

First pattern for the new blog! Wahoo!

Let me introduce you to Karl the Oddball Mummy. Karl hates sand, small spaces and museums. That's an unfortunate list of pet peeves for a mummy. It's no wonder he's groaning all the time. He tries to ease his woes by perusing magazines, cutting out examples of haute couture and saving them in his scrapbook. He yearns for a new outfit but has yet to figure out how to remove his bandages without his body falling apart.

The Oddball Mummy

Size
8cm/3in tall, 7cm/2 ¾in wide

Skill Level
Intermediate. This pattern requires that you crochet in a spiral and in rows. It is quite a straightforward pattern but some rounds are worked in the back loops and there are colour changes.

Note on yarn and hook size
I used DK weight yarn and a 3.0mm hook for this pattern. For those using US hooks, I recommend a size C or D, for those using UK hooks, I recommend a size 11. You can use a different weight yarn than DK but it will change the size of your toy. Remember to use the same weight yarn for all parts so that your toy is in proportion. Choose a hook size that will give you a nice tight stitch.

Materials
Yarn
White
Light Green

Crochet Hook – 3.00mm or preferred size
Filling
Plastic pellets or dried beans and stocking (optional)
Tapestry needle
Black felt for the eyes
Craft glue and/or thread and sharp needle for attaching felt
Pins
Scissors
Used teabag and some cool water

Terminology
***This pattern was written using US crochet terminology***
ch – Chain
Rnd – Round
sc – Single crochet
sc2tog – Single crochet two stitches together.
sl st – Slip stitch
st – Stitch. This term covers ch, sc, hdc, sl st and other stitches used in crochet.

Make a ring – The starting point for crocheting in a spiral. Use which ever method you prefer.
* * - Repeat the instructions between the asterisks as directed.
( ) – The number of stitches that should be in a completed round are placed in brackets at the end of that round’s instructions.

Instructions

Body (White and Light Green)
Some of the rounds are worked in the back loops to create lines around the body and make it look like Karl is wrapped in bandages. If you're not familiar with back loops, I recommend looking at this tutorial on Stitch Diva Studios.

Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st* around (18)
Rnd 4: Working in the back loops only, *sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st* around (24)
Rnd 5: *sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next st* around (30)
Rnd 6: Working in the back loops only, *sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next st* around (36)
Rnd 7: *sc in next 5 st, 2 sc in next st* around (42)
Rnd 8: Working in the back loops only, *sc in next 6 st, 2 sc in next st* around (48)
Rnd 9: sc in each st around
Rnd 10: Working in the back loops only, sc in each st around
Rnd 11: *sc in next 6 st, sc2tog* around (42)
Rnd 12: Working in the back loops only, *sc in next 5 st, sc2tog* around (36)
Rnd 13: sc in each st around
Rnd 14: Working in the back loops only, sc in each st around
Rnd 15: *sc in next 4 st, sc2tog* around (30)
Rnd 16: Working in the back loops only, *sc in next 3 st, sc2tog* around (24)
Rnd 17: *sc in next 5 st, 2 sc in next st* around (28)
Can start lightly stuffing now. Plastic pellets or dried beans tied in a stocking can be placed at the bottom of the body to give it a bit of weight. This will also give your toy a bit more stability when you stand it up.
Rnd 18: Working in the back loops only, *sc in next 6 st, 2 sc in next st* around (32)
Rnd 19: *sc in next 7 st, 2 sc in next st* around (36)
Change to Light Green yarn.
Rnd 20: sc in each st around
Rnd 21: *sc in next 7 st, sc2tog* around (32)
Rnd 22: *sc in next 6 st, sc2tog* around (28)
Change to White yarn.
Rnd 23: *sc in next 2 st, sc2tog* around (21)
Rnd 24: *sc in next st, sc2tog* around (14)
Finish stuffing firmly.
Rnd 25: sc2tog around (7)
Cut yarn and weave end through remaining stitches. Pull tight to close up hole. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Arms (in White)
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 7 sc in ring (7)
Rnd 2: sc in each st around
Rnd 3: Working in the back loops only, sc in each st around
Rnd 4: sc in each st around
Rnd 5: Working in the back loops only, sc in each st around
Rnd 6: sc in each st around
Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn. Leave unstuffed. Make two.

Bandage (in White)
Chain 3.
Row 1: sc in 2nd chain from the hook, sc in next chain (2)
Row 2-13: chain 1, turn, sc in next two sc (2)
Row 14: chain 1, turn, sc2tog (1)
Row 15-16: chain 1, turn, sc in next sc (1)
Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn. Weave in other yarn ends.

Mouth (in White)
Chain 6.
Row 1: sc in 2nd chain from the hook, sc in next 4 chains (5)
Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn. Weave in other yarn ends.

Big Eye (in White)
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)
Sl st in next st and pull through yarn. Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn.

Small Eye (in White)
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring (6)
Sl st in next st and pull through yarn. Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn.

You can now attach a small circle of black felt to each eye to make the pupils, using needle and thread or glue. They should sit off-centre, close to the edge of the eye.

Assembly
***These are guidelines only. Be guided by your own eyes at all times.***

Join arms to the body. Attach the arms just below the neck, the narrowest part of the body, using the tails of yarn left on the arms.

Join the eyes to the body. The eyes sit close together on the green section of the body (the green section being his mouldy face). Position the eyes so that the pupils are close together. Use the tails of yarn left on the eyes to stitch them on to the body.

Join the bandage to the head. The narrow section of the bandage sits above the eyes and the bandage should sweep to the side, as if blowing in a desert breeze. Stitch on using the tail of yarn left on the bandage.

Join the mouth to the face. Don't stitch down the upper edge of the mouth. Let it gape open a little in a grimace. Stitch on using the tail of yarn on the mouth.

Stain the bandages. Make a cup of tea and place the teabag aside. Use a black tea. I used English Breakfast. Make sure to set aside the teabag before adding any milk.

Run a little cool water over the teabag so that it's not too hot to handle. Give the teabag a squeeze so that it's not too wet - it should be damp but not dripping. Have a little water sitting by in a bowl. Now dab your Mummy with the bag to stain his bandages. This will leave quite dark stains. To soften them, wet your finger in the bowl of water and then run it over the stains. Try to keep his eyes stain free.

Your Oddball Mummy is now complete. If his groaning starts to bother you, give him a magazine and that should keep him quiet for a while.

Copyright © Kim Lapsley 2012

Some Basics on Micro-crochet

noreply@blogger.com (Kim) — Thu, 03 Oct 2013 13:34:00 +0000

My Micro Octopus ... Fine copper wire was used in the tentacles.

Micro Stag ... He is 2.5cm long.

I've spent a lot of time this year micro-crocheting and I've started selling some pieces in my Etsy store. I've been sharing my micro projects on Facebook and recently Deviantart but, for no good reason, I've not yet talked about it on the blog. So here we go … I'm going to show off some of my pieces and talk about some of the basics on micro-crochet.

Micro-crocheting is basically what it sounds like - it's crocheting on a very small scale, using thread and steel hooks. There are some amazing micro-crochet artists and if you're interested in trying it out yourself, I recommend taking a look at some of the work out there to get a feel for it. Crochet Concupiscence recently did a round-up titled Teeny Tiny Crochet. This would be the perfect place to start browsing.

Don't be intimated by what you see when browsing. Making and seeing such tiny stitches may seem impossible but it's not. It just takes time and practice. Trust me, when you balance that first tiny object you've made on your fingertip, you're gonna feel like a champion and it will be worth all that initial frustration.

Patterns
If you're looking for patterns, don't think that you have to use patterns specifically written for micro-crochet projects. It's the size thread and hook that will have the biggest influence on the size of your project. To start, choose a pattern that requires very little joining and with no complicated shaping.

I have a couple of micro-crochet patterns (Micro Pig and My Tiny Heart) and here are a few free ones from some talented designers that you can find on the internet:

Amigurumi Mitsu from Sue Pendleton
Miniature Purple Panda from Amigurumi To Go
Miniature Thread Totoro also from Amigurumi To Go
Teeny Tiny Mushroom from Crafty Queens
Sauerkraut the Miniature Sock Monkey from Ronda Chapman

Materials
I started with a 0.6mm hook. In hindsight I should have probably started with a 1.0mm in order to ease myself into it. I've now moved on to the 0.4mm hook which I purchased from the Etsy store, Threads and Links. I crochet with common polyester sewing thread because it's cheap and strong. I have used embroidery thread and cotton thread and have found that they sometimes rip. This may be because I'm a little heavy handed.

A good pair of embroidery scissors is a must. When you start to get really tiny, you'll also want to find some fine needles to use for joining. I like using beading needles*. They are a bit bendy but I find their length can be handy sometimes. For stuffing, you can use polyester stuffing. You won't need much. Also, some fine point tweezers are handy when it comes to stuffing.

* Pony size 10 Betweens/Quilting needles have been recommended to me by an experienced sewer. They are as fine as beading needles but not as long and are less likely to bend.

Hummingbird and flower ... He is about 2cm wide.

How do you see?!!!!
Okay, so the truth is if you don't have the best eyesight this is probably not the activity for you, particularly if you are longsighted. Your eyes will get tired. Good lighting is essential. Craft lamps are brilliant (pun alert!) but they can be expensive. It is probably wise to make do with the Sun and regular lamps with a bright fluorescent bulb to start with. The same goes with a magnifying glass. It's not essential and probably only necessary if you find yourself micro-crocheting all the time.

Micro whale named Blue.

A tiny polar bear.

There you have it. I hope you find that helpful. If anybody has any other tips, please leave a comment below. My next micro project will probably be a tiny boat and a calf to go with my micro whale. I hope to share it with you soon.

Cheers, guys!

Santa Claus Pattern

noreply@blogger.com (Kim) — Tue, 03 Sep 2013 13:36:00 +0000

I have a new pattern available for sale. It's Santa Claus! All his clothes are removable and he comes with his toy sack. You can purchase the pattern from my Etsy store.

A huge thank you to my three excellent testers, Claudia, Simone and Meaella. They all did a wonderful job, as you can see from the pictures below, and helped me make a better pattern. Cheers, guys!

Claudia's Santa - A dapper gentlemen, Claudia cleverly used a button on the belt instead of a hook and eye. She has tested all three of my patterns for purchase and has done an excellent job on all of them.

Simone's Santa - The little bell on the hat was her son's idea. Love it! You can check out more photos over on her Ravelry project page.

Dreamcatcher Meaella's Santa - This sweetie of a Santa will soon be joined by Mrs Claus! Meaella is currently working on her and will be posting pictures over on her Facebook page. I can't wait. Pop on over and check out some of her other amazing projects as well.

Marilyn has been updated ...

noreply@blogger.com (Kim) — Thu, 29 Aug 2013 13:24:00 +0000

I had the opportunity to update the Marilyn the Fancy Fish pattern this week. I was so happy to make her again. She was the first pattern I wrote up and shared and she was my first post on Woolly Toons.

The Changes

The original pattern only included photos of the finished Marilyn which wasn't very helpful. I've added a whole lot of new photos showing the joining process, and for fun, I took a few glam shots of Marilyn too.
When I was making this second Marilyn, her lips seemed less pouty than I remembered. I think I might have made a mistake when I was transcribing the pattern. In any case, I've changed the pattern so that the lips are wider and fuller.
I've changed some of the joining instructions. Hopefully, along with the photos, this makes the process clearer for you.

And that's it. If you've been wanting to fill that fancy-fish-shaped hole in your life, now would be the time. Enjoy!

From me and Marilyn, MWAHH!

Amigurumi Hands

noreply@blogger.com (Kim) — Wed, 17 Jul 2013 14:12:00 +0000

I'm writing up a pattern at the moment which requires hands. I've been asked before how I make hands with fingers for my amigurumis and, seeing as all the photos have already been taken, I thought it would be a good idea to do a pattern/tutorial for a small hand. This will hopefully be a starting point for you to make hands to match your own toys.

I first came across ami fingers when I was making Alicia Ramirez's Nibbler. This pattern is where it all started for me when it comes to designing amigurumis. I learnt so many things from it - hands, crocheting around a chain, feet, shaping … plus it makes a perfect Nibbler. I use the same technique Alicia Ramirez uses in the Nibbler Pattern to make hands for my toys - the fingers are made first, crocheted together then you shape the hand and do even rounds to finish the arm.

Sharon Ojala from Amigurumi to Go has an excellent video tutorial on amigurumi hands. She makes the arm and hand first and then crochets the fingers. I recommend taking a look at this as well and seeing which technique suits your needs better.

I'm a cartoon fan so I like to do a 4-fingered hand, but I've also included a pattern for a five-fingered hand.

Amigurumi Hands

Size
Using a 3.0mm hook and DK/8ply yarn this pattern will give you a 4cm/1.6in

Terminology
***This pattern is written using US crochet terminology***
Rnd - Round
sc – Single crochet
sc2tog – Single crochet two stitches together.
st – Stitch. This term covers ch, sc, hdc, sl st and other stitches used in crochet.

Make a ring – The starting point for crocheting in a spiral. Use which ever method you prefer.
* * - Repeat the instructions between the asterisks as directed.
( ) – The number of stitches that should be in a completed round are placed in brackets at the end of that round’s instructions.

Instructions

Thumb
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 4 sc in ring
Rnd 2: sc in each st around
Cut the yarn and fasten off. Leave a tail of yarn.

Fingers
You will be making three fingers.

Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 4 sc in ring
Rnd 2-3: sc in each st around
For the first two fingers you make, cut the yarn and fasten off after round 3, leaving a tail of yarn. When you finish making the third finger, do not cut the yarn.

Hand
The fingers will now be crocheted together. When you crochet the fingers together, you want to let the tails of yarn fall between the fingers. You can use these later to close up any gaps.

Rnd 1: sc in next 2 st of the third finger made, sc in 2 st of one of the loose fingers (this will be the middle finger), sc in all 4 st of last loose finger, sc in last 2 st of the middle finger, sc in last 2 st of third finger made (12)

How the fingers look after round 1

Rnd 2: sc in each st around
Rnd 3: In this round the thumb will be crocheted on. sc in next 6 st, sc in all 4 st of the thumb, sc in last 6 st (16)

Rnd 4: sc in each st around
Rnd 5: sc2tog, sc in next 4 st, sc2tog twice, sc in next 4 st, sc2tog (12)
Rnd 6: sc2tog, sc in next 4 st, sc2tog, sc in next 4 st (10)
Now you have a hand.

Michelangelo moment ... or E. T. moment

Continue to crochet even rounds - sc in each st around - to create the arm and finish when the arm is the desired length.

When you've finished, take a look between the fingers. If there are any gaps, use the tails of yarn left on the fingers to stitch them closed. Weave in yarn ends.

Five-fingered Hand

For a five-fingered hand, you'll add a pinkie finger. The pinkie finger will be the same as the thumb. When you make the three middle fingers, cut the yarn for all three, leaving tails. Cut the yarn for the thumb but do not cut the yarn for the pinkie finger.

Hand

Rnd 1: Crochet the pinkie finger and the three middle fingers together. sc in next 2 st of pinkie finger, sc in next 2 st of one loose middle finger (ring finger), sc in next 2 st of next middle finger (middle finger), sc in all 4 st of last middle finger (index finger), sc in last 2 st of middle finger, sc in last 2 st of ring finger, sc in last 2 st of pinkie finger (16)
Rnd 2: sc in each st around
Rnd 3: In this round the thumb will be crocheted on. sc in next 8 st, sc in all 4 st of thumb, sc in last 8 st (20)
Rnd 4: sc in each st around
Rnd 5: sc2tog, sc in next 6 st, sc2tog twice, sc in next 6 st, sc2tog (16)
Rnd 6: sc2tog, sc in next 4 st, sc2tog twice, sc in next 4 st, sc2tog (12)
Rnd 7: sc2tog, sc in next 4 st, sc2tog, sc in next 4 st (10)
Crochet even rounds to make the arm.

Making Alterations

Shaping the hand. The important thing to remember when shaping the hand is to make the decreases at the outer edges. This will keep the hand flat.

Changing the size of the fingers. You can add more rounds to make them longer. To make them wider you can start off with more stitches in the ring, making increases in the following rounds until the finger is wide enough. When you're making larger hands, you'll be able to shape the individual fingers - you can make the middle finger longer than the rest and have the thumb wider at the top than at the bottom.

Okay that's it. If I've left anything out or if you have any questions, let me know. I hope you found it helpful.

Copyright © Kim Lapsley 2013

The Toilet No. 2

noreply@blogger.com (Kim) — Fri, 05 Jul 2013 09:41:00 +0000

Pun intended ;)

This is an updated version of The Toilet pattern I designed to go with my moustachioed fish, Walter. I've left the original pattern up on the blog in case anybody would like to look over it or are in the process of making it.

I've been meaning to update some of my older patterns for a while now, and, since I just happened to be making one as a gift, the Toilet was the first to get a redo.

Major changes:

The toilet seat is no longer crocheted as a tube that curves around and then needs to joined to make a circle. Instead, you start with a large ring and crochet out from the inner edge of the seat and then back again to make the tire-like shape. This was inspired by a description I read in a forum once of a doughnut pattern.
I've added another stand to make the toilet more stable. The stands and pipe are crocheted together in the first round of the cistern instead of being stitched on later.
I've moved around the increases in the seat cover so that its shape is more rounded. The two parts of the cover are slip stitched together instead of stitched.
I've included a scissor strap in case anyone wants to use their toilet as a pincushion.

There are some other changes but basically I wanted to cut down on the amount of stitching. It is still an advanced pattern but I'm hoping the changes have made it a little simpler.

Enjoy!

Hier vind je de Nederlandse vertaling gemaakt door Nanske Panske: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0By1c5xez_7zrdXljdHNWZFFXM2M/view

The Toilet No. 2

Size
18cm/7in Tall, 17cm/6.7in deep, 12cm/4.7in wide

Skill Level
Difficult. I recommend that you read through the pattern before you start. The pattern has many parts. Some of the joining is complicated. For the cistern lid you are required to crochet around a chain. A link to a tutorial on how to do this has been included in that section. I've included lots of photos and if you need any help, feel free to contact me.

Note on yarn and hook size
I used DK weight yarn and a 3.0mm hook for this pattern. For those using US hooks, I recommend a size C or D, for those using UK hooks, I recommend a size 11. You can use a different weight yarn than DK but it will change the size of your Toilet. Remember to use the same weight yarn for all parts so that your toy is in proportion. Choose a hook size that will give you a nice tight stitch.

Materials
Yarn
White (300m/320yds should be more than plenty)
Grey (Small amount)

Crochet Hook – 3.00mm or preferred size
Filling
Plastic pellets/dried beans
Stocking or material to make a pouch for pellets/beans
Tapestry needle
Thread and sharp needle

Terminology
***This pattern is written using US crochet terminology***
ch – Chain
Loops – This term covers back and front loops of a stitch.
Rnd - Round
sc – Single crochet
sc2tog – Single crochet two stitches together.
sl st – Slip stitch
st – Stitch. This term covers ch, sc, hdc, sl st and other stitches used in crochet.

Make a ring – The starting point for crocheting in a spiral. Use which ever method you prefer.
* * - Repeat the instructions between the asterisks as directed.
( ) – The number of stitches that should be in a completed round are placed in brackets at the end of that round’s instructions.

Instructions

Toilet Bowl (in White)
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 7 sc in ring (7)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (14)
Rnd 3: *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st* around (21)
Rnd 4: *sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st* around (28)
Rnd 5: sc in each st around
Rnd 6: *sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next st* around (35)
Rnd 7: *sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next st* around (42)
Rnd 8: sc in each st around
Rnd 9: *sc in next 5 st, 2 sc in next st* around (49)
Rnd 10: *sc in next 6 st, 2 sc in next st* around (56)
Rnd 11-14: sc in each st around
Rnd 15: *sc in next 7 st, 2 sc in next st* around (63)
Rnd 16: *sc in next 8 st, 2 sc in next st* around (70)
Rnd 17: sc in each st around
Mark this row with a piece of coloured yarn.

Rnd 18: *sc in next 8 st, sc2tog* around (63)
Rnd 19-23: sc in each st around
Rnd 24: *sc in next 7 st, sc2tog* around (56)
Rnd 25: *sc in next 6 st, sc2tog* around (49)
Rnd 26: *sc in next 5 st, sc2tog* around (42)
Rnd 27: *sc in next 4 st, sc2tog* around (35)
Rnd 28: sc in each st around

Form the bowl of the toilet by sinking the top of your work down. The coloured yarn that you used to mark round 17 should sit on top of the rim of the bowl.

Lightly stuff the wall of the bowl.

Attach a length of yarn to the bottom of the bowl. Stitch the outside of the bowl to the inside as shown in the photo, being careful not to stitch through or over the top round (round 28). Refer to photos below.

Move on to round 29

Crocheting round 29

Rnd 29: sc in each st around
Rnd 30: *sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next st* around (42)
Rnd 31-32: sc in each st around
Rnd 33: *sc in next 5 st, 2 sc in next st* around (49)
Rnd 34: sc in each st around
Cut yarn and fasten off. Weave in yarn ends.

Base of Toilet Bowl (in White)
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 7 sc in ring (7)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (14)
Rnd 3: *sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc* around (21)
Rnd 4: *sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc* around (28)
Rnd 5: *sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc* around (35)
Rnd 6: *sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc* around (42)
Rnd 7: *sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc* around (49)

Do not cut yarn. Secure some plastic pellets/dried beans in the toe of a stocking or in some material. This is used to fill the bottom of the toilet bowl instead of polyester filling to help the toilet stand a little better. I also like to add a couple of coins in for some extra weight.

Place the base on the bottom of the toilet bowl and begin to slip stitch in place - place hook through next stitch on base and through stitch in the last round of the toilet bowl, pull yarn through both stitches and loop on hook.

Do this until you're about halfway around the base. You can now place the pellets and coins in the base. Finish slip stitching the base and the bottom of the bowl together. Cut yarn and fasten off. Weave in yarn ends.

Pipe (in White)
Stuff as you go but leave the top of the pipe unstuffed.

Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 8 sc in ring (8)
Rnd 2: *sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc* twice (10)
Rnd 3-20: sc in each sc around
Cut yarn and fasten off. Weave in yarn end.

Cistern Stands (in White)
You will make two of these and then crochet them to the pipe when you begin making the cistern.

Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 8 sc in in ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (16)
Rnd 3: Working in the back loops only, sc in each st around (16)
Rnd 4-11: sc in each st around
For the first stand you make, cut yarn and fasten off. Weave in yarn ends. For the second stand, do not cut the yarn. You will continue to crochet in this pipe in the next section.

Cistern (in White)

In round 1 of the cistern you will be crocheting the two stands and the pipe together.

Rnd 1: sc in next 8 st of the second stand you made, sc in next 5 st of the pipe, sc in next 16 st of the first stand you made, sc in last 5 st of the pipe, sc in last 8 st of the second stand you made (42)

... sc in next 5 st of pipe ...

... sc in next 16 st of the first stand you made ...

After round 1 your stands should look … well, let's just say I had a good giggle at this point. Moving on to round 2 --

Rnd 2: *sc in next 6 st, 2 sc in next st* around (48)
Rnd 3: Working in the front loops only, *sc in next 7 st, 2 sc in next st* around (54)
Rnd 4-8: sc in each st around
Stuff the stands and finish stuffing the pipe.
Rnd 9: *sc in next 8 st, 2 sc in next st* around (60)
Rnd 10-15: sc in each st around
Rnd 16: *sc in next 9 st, 2 sc in next st* around (66)
Rnd 17-22: sc in each st around
Rnd 23: *sc in next 10 st, 2 sc in next st* around (72)
Rnd 24-29: sc in each st around
Rnd 30: *sc in next 11 st, 2 sc in next st* around (78)
Rnd 31-40: sc in each st around
Cut yarn and fasten off. Weave in any yarn ends. Stuff firmly.

Cistern Lid (in White)
The cistern lid will be made by crocheting around a chain. You can find a tutorial on how to do this here.

Chain 17
Rnd 1: sc in second loop from end, sc in next 15 loops, ch 1, turn work upside down, sc in next 16 loops, ch 1 (34)
Rnd 2: *2 sc in next 2 st, sc in next 12 st, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in next st* twice (42)
Rnd 3: *sc in next st, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in next 15 st, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in next st* twice (50)
Rnd 4: *sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in next 17 st, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in next 2 st* twice (58)
Rnd 5: *sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in next 19 st, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in next 3 st* twice (66)
Rnd 6: *sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in next 21 st, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in next 4 st* twice (74)
Rnd 7: *sc in next 5 st, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in next 23 st, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in next 5 st* twice (82)
Rnd 8-13: sc in each st around
Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a long tail of yarn to use when joining the lid to the cistern.

Seat (in White)
Chain 42. Sl st in first chain made to make a large circle.
Rnd 1: sc in each chain around (42)
Rnd 2: *sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st* around (56)
Rnd 3: *sc in next 7 st, 2 sc in next st* around (63)
Rnd 4: *2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 st* around (70)
Rnd 5: sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next 9 st, 2 sc in next st* six times, sc in next 5 st (77)
Rnd 6: *sc in next 10 st, 2 sc in next st* around (84)
Rnd 7-8: sc in each st around
Rnd 9: *sc2tog, sc in next 10 st* around (77)
Rnd 10: sc in next 4 st, sc2tog, *sc in next 9 st, sc2tog* six times, sc in next 5 st (70)
Rnd 11: *sc in next 8 st, sc2tog* around (63)
Rnd 12: *sc2tog, sc in next 7 st* around (56)
Rnd 13: *sc in next 2 st, sc2tog* around (42)
Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a long tail. You should now have a circular tube, like a tire, with its inner edge open. Use the tail of yarn to close the inner edge, or, in other words, stitch round 1 and round 13 together.

After you have finished closing this inner edge, thread the tail of yarn through the tube to the outer edge. This will be used to join the seat to the seat cover.

Seat Cover (in White)
The seat cover is two large crocheted circles that are slip stitched together.

Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 7 sc in ring (7)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (14)
Rnd 3: *sc in next sc, 2 sc in next st* around (21)
Rnd 4: *2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* around (28)
Rnd 5: sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next st* six times, sc in next 2 st (35)
Rnd 6: *sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next st* around (42)
Rnd 7: *2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st* around (49)
Rnd 8: sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next 6 st, 2 sc in next st* six times, sc in next 3 st (56)
Rnd 9: *sc in next 7 st, 2 sc in next st* around (63)
Rnd 10: *2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 st* around (70)
Rnd 11: sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next 9 st, 2 sc in next st* six times, sc in next 5 st (77)
Rnd 12: *sc in next 10 st, 2 sc in next st* around (84)
Rnd 13: *2 sc in next st, sc in next 11 st* around (91)
For the first circle you make, cut yarn and fasten off. For the second circle you make, do not cut the yarn. Place the two circles together, their right sides facing out, and slip stitch together - place hook through next stitch on the second circle you made and through a stitch on the first circle you made, pull yarn through both stitches and through the loop on your hook. Do that for all stitches around the circles. Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a long tail to use when joining the seat and seat cover to the toilet bowl.

... slip stitch together ...

Flush (in Grey)
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 5 sc in ring (5)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (10)
Rnd 3: sc2tog around (5)
Rnd 4-7: sc in each st around
Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail to use when joining the flush to the cistern. Close up hole by weaving yarn through remaining stitches and pulling tight. Thread yarn through the flush and out through the rounded end.

Optional Scissor Strap (in white)
This will depend on the size of your scissors. For a pair of small craft scissors the following strap should be sufficient.

Chain 7.
Row 1: sc in 2nd chain from the stitch, sc in each st to the end (6)
Row 2: chain 1, turn, sc in each st to the end (6)
Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn to use when joining the strap to the cistern.

Assembly
***These are guidelines only. Be guided by your own eye at all times.***

Join the Cistern Lid to the Cistern. Stuff the Cistern and join to the Cistern Lid using the tail of yarn left on the lid. Don’t stitch over the edge of the cistern lid. Stich through the underside of the lid just above the edge.

Join the Seat Cover to the Seat. Use the tail of yarn on the seat to join the two together. The join should be about 15 stitches long or 1/6 the circumference of the seat. Make sure that the tail of yarn on the cover ends up either at the beginning or end of the join.

Join the Seat to the bowl. Hold the seat and cover on top of the bowl and stitch on using the tail of yarn left on the cover.

Join the Cistern to the Seat. Attach a length of white yarn to the cover where it joins to the seat. Stand the bowl up on a flat surface and hold the cistern up against it so that the cistern stands are level with the bowl base. Centre the bowl on the cistern then mark where the seat and lid join sit against the cistern with two pins. The pins will help guide you as you stitch the two parts together. Use the length of yarn to join the cistern to the seat and bowl.

Join the Pipe to the Bowl. Attach a length of white yarn to the end of the pipe. Bend the pipe so that its end sits against the bowl. Pin in place and stitch to the bowl using the length of yarn.

Join the Flush to the Cistern. Use the length of yarn on the flush to stitch the rounded end to the cistern. The pointed end should stick out like a handle.

Join the scissor strap to the back of the cistern.

You're finished! Congratulations. I hope you love it!

The Worm

noreply@blogger.com (Kim) — Sat, 18 May 2013 15:21:00 +0000

'Ello. Do you know what's coming next? It's the Labyrinth Worm pattern!

Labyrinth was THE movie of my childhood. Many others came close - The Princess Bride, Star Wars, Indiana Jones, Willow, The Rocky Horror Picture Show (yep), The NeverEnding Story, The Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe animation - but Labyrinth was the special one. So this year I crocheted one of its characters for my sister's birthday.

protagonist.wikia.com

The Worm is only in the movie for a moment but it is one of the best moments in the entire movie (and that's saying something). Sad to say, several crocheted worms died in the making of this pattern - a moment's silence - but happily I got there in the end.

It's a bit of a tricky pattern. Have a read through before you start. If you have any questions or you want me to add anything, let me know.

Good luck, guys. I really hope you enjoy this one.

Happy crocheting! Oh, and you remind me of the babe …

Edit: Someone on Facebook suggested that the scarf could be narrower and I agree (Thanks, Chris Flemish). I've adjusted the pattern so that the scarf is 2 sc wide instead of 3. Photos with the new scarf will have to wait - someone has kidnapped the worm. He should be back tonight. Also, even though I like to crochet everything when I'm making a toy, I think in this case a scarf made from some drapey red material would work really well. <-- New photos have now been added.

The Labyrinth Worm

Size
7.5cm/3in tall (this doesn't include the hair), 8.5cm/3.3in long

Skill Level
Advanced. The colour changes and the facial features of the worm - the cheeks, the eyelids, and the mouth - are the trickiest part of this pattern. You could leave out the eyes and the mouth and instead embroider or stitch them on for a simpler pattern. Notes on colour changes and a link to a tutorial by June Gilbank are given at the beginning of the pattern instructions. I've included many photos of the assembly of the worm. If anything is unclear or if you have any problems, let me know.

Note on yarn and hook size
I used DK weight yarn and a 3.0mm hook for this pattern. For those using US hooks, I recommend a size C or D, for those using UK hooks, I recommend a size 11. You can use a different weight yarn than DK but it will change the size of the worm. This means that 7.5mm safety eyes may not match your worm and you may have to choose a different size. Remember to use the same weight yarn for all colours so that the different parts of your toy are in proportion. Choose a hook size that will give you a nice tight stitch.

Materials
Yarn (DK/8 Ply)
Blue
Tan
Black (small amount)
Red

Plastic Safety Eyes - 7.5mm diameter
Crochet Hook - 3.0mm or size that gives you a nice tight stitch
Filling
Sharp needle
Scissors
Iron
Brush

Terminology
***This pattern was written using US crochet terminology***
Rnd – Round
sc – Single crochet
sc2tog – Single crochet two stitches together.
sl st – Slip stitch
st – Stitch. This term covers chains, sc, hdc, sl st and other stitches used in crochet.

Make a ring – The starting point for crocheting in a spiral. Use which ever method you prefer.
* * - Repeat the instructions between the asterisks as directed.
( ) – The number of stitches that should be in a completed round are placed in brackets at the end of that round’s instructions.

Instructions

Colour Change
If you're unfamiliar with changing yarn colour when crocheting, have a look at this tutorial by June Gilbank. For this pattern, I recommend using the tapestry crochet technique - carry the colour your not crocheting with across the top of the row and crochet over it. This second colour may sometimes show through to the front but the worm is quite a motley little guy anyway so it's not really a problem.

Back Section (in Blue and Tan)
Start with Tan.
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: *sc in next st, 2 sc in each st* around (18)
Rnd 4: change to Blue, sc in next 2 st, sc2tog, *sc in next st, sc2tog* twice, sc in next st, change to Tan, sc in next 7 st (15)
Rnd 5: change to Blue, sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st* twice, sc in next st, change to Tan, sc in next 7 st (18)
Rnd 6-7: change to Blue, sc in next 11 st, change to Tan, sc in next 7 st (18)
Rnd 8: same as Rnd 4
Rnd 9: same as Rnd 5
Rnd 10-11: same as Rnd 6
Rnd 12: same as Rnd 4
Rnd 13: same as Rnd 5
Cut both Blue and Tan yarn. Fasten off, leaving long tails to use when joining the back section to the front section. Stuff firmly.

Head/Front Section (in Blue and Tan)
In Rnd 7 you create a hole so that the worm's open mouth can be made. If you would rather embroider or stitch on a mouth, I've included an alternative Rnd 7 and 8 below the Head/Front Section instructions.

Start with Blue
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st* around (18)
Rnd 4: change to Tan, sc in next 9 st, change to Blue, sc in next 9 st (18)
Rnd 5-6: same as Rnd 4
Rnd 7: change to Tan, sc in next 3 st, chain 3, skip 3 st, sc in next 3 st, change to Blue, sc in next 9 st (18)

Rnd 7: ... chain 3 ...

Rnd 7: ... skip 3 st, sc in next 3 st ...

Rnd 8: change to Tan, sc in next 3 st, sc in the back loops of the next 3 chains, sc in next 3 st, change to Blue, sc in next 9 st (18)

Okay, time to add the eyes and the mouth.

Push the safety eyes in so that their top edge sits where the blue and tan meet at the top of the head.

Attach black yarn to the side of the mouth opening. Single crochet around the mouth opening. The white crosses in the picture below show you where to place the single crochets.

Thread the tails of yarn to the back of the mouth.

Push the mouth into the head and use the tail of black yarn to stitch the opening closed.

Continue on to Rnd 9 -

Rnd 9: change to Tan, sc in next 4 st, sc2tog, sc in next 3 st, change to Blue, sc in next st, sc2tog, sc in next 4 st, sc2tog (15)
You can start stuffing. Be careful not to pop out the mouth.
Rnd 10: continuing in Blue, sc in next st, change to Tan, sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st, change to Blue, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next st (18)
Rnd 11: continuing in Blue, sc in next st, change to Tan, sc in next 9 st, change to Blue, sc in next 8 st (18)
Rnd 12-14: same as Rnd 11
Rnd 15: continuing in Blue, sc in next st, change to Tan, sc in next 17 st (18)
Cut the blue yarn, leaving a long tail.
Rnd 16: continuing in Tan, sc in each st around
Rnd 17: *sc in next st, sc2tog* around (12)
Rnd 18: sc2tog around (6)
Finish stuffing firmly. Cut yarn and weave through remaining stitches, pulling tight to close up hole. Weave in loose end. Thread the blue tail of yarn up through the worm and out through the top of the head. This will be used later to secure his tufts of hair.

Alternative Rnd 7 and 8
Rnd 7-8: change to Tan, sc in next 9 st, change to Blue, sc in next 9 st (18)

Eye Lids (in Tan)
Chain 3.
Cut yarn and pull through last stitch. Leave a tail to use when stitching the lids to the face. Make two. The eye lids should just cover the top of the eyes. If you are using bigger safety eyes than suggested, you might want to add a chain or two to the eye lids.

Lips (in Tan)
Chain 4.
Cut yarn and pull through last stitch. Leave a tail to use when stitching the lips to the mouth. Make two.

Cheeks (in Tan)
This section requires you to crochet in the back humps of a chain. Knot Sew Cute has a great tutorial on how to do this.

Chain 8.
Row 1: Working in the back humps of the stitch, sc in 2nd chain from the hook, sc in each chain to the end (7)
Cut yarn and fasten off. Leave a long tail of yarn. Stitch the two ends of the strip together using the tail of yarn to create a circle. Stitch closed the gap left in the middle of the circle. You should still have a tail of yarn left. This will be used to join the cheeks to the face. Make two.

This may seem like a complicated way to crochet a circle. I do it this way because I prefer the texture it creates. Here's a simpler alternative:

Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring (6)
Rnd 2: *sc in next st, 2 sc in next* around (9)
Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn. Make two.

Scarf (in Red)
Chain 3.
Row 1: sc in 2nd chain from the hook, sc in next chain (2)
Row 2: chain 1, turn, sc in next 2 st to the end (2)
Repeat Row 2 until the scarf is a little longer than twice the length of the worm. I crocheted 50 rows. Cut yarn and fasten off. Weave in ends.

For the first worm I made, I knitted the scarf using 3.25mm needles. I cast on 48 stitches, knit two rows and then cast off. This gave me a good length scarf.

Assembly
***These are guidelines only. Be guided by your own eyes at all times.***

Join the front and back sections. Pin the sections together. Line up the blue and tan sections. Use the blue tail of yarn to stitch the blue sections together. Use the tan tail of yarn to stitch the tan sections together.

Join the eye lids to the face. Carefully pin the eye lids above the eyes. Use the tails of yarn left on the eye lids to stitch them onto the face. (He looks a little mean at this point. Don't worry. The cute will come.)

Join the lips to the mouth. Pin the lips to the mouth and stitch on using the tails of yarn left on the lips.

Join the cheeks to the face. Pin next to the mouth and below the eyes and stitch on using the tails of yarn left on the cheeks.

The Hair

For the long tuft on the top of the head: Cut three lengths of blue yarn a little longer than twice the length of the front section of the worm. Loop strands onto the top of the head - fold in half, pull the folded end through a stitch in the top of the head, then pull cut ends back through the folded end.

For the tufts at the side of the head: For each tuft, cut three lengths of yarn a little longer than twice the width of the worm's face. Loop strands onto a stitch behind the eyes where the blue and tan colours meet.

For the short blue tufts that run along the body: For each tuft, cut two lengths of yarn that can wrap around two of your fingers once. Loop strands onto the body where the blue and tan colours meet.

For the small tan tufts behind the cheeks: For each tuft, cut one length of yarn that can wrap around two of your fingers. Loop onto a stitch behind the bottom edge of the cheek where the blue and tan colours meet.

Secure the tufts.
Finally, we're going to use that long blue tail of yarn you threaded up and out through the top of the worm's head. Use this tail of yarn to stitch down the loops of the tufts of hair. You will only need to put one stitch into each loop.

Trim the tufts. Separate the strands of yarn and brush out. I found a lint brush works quite well. To straighten out the longer tufts on the head, use a hot iron on a high steam setting. Hold the iron on the hair for only a second or two at a time. Each tuft should only need 3 or 4 quick presses. Give the tufts one more brush.

Tie on his red scarf and you are done!! Yay! Now, go and have a cup of tea and, for goodness' sake, go and meet the missus. Say hi from me.

The Labyrinth Worm character is not my creation so I would ask you not to sell any toys you make from this pattern. Thank you!

Copyright © Kim Lapsley 2013

SadDays' Mirror Crochet

noreply@blogger.com (Kim) — Mon, 22 Apr 2013 04:24:00 +0000

Hey, guys! I hope everyone is having a great Monday.

I just came across this great technique shared by SadDays Crochet. It allows you to crochet flat pieces of work with a texture that will match your pieces that have been worked in the round. It's called mirror crochet or backwards single crochet. Not sure what I'm talking about? It's okay - SadDays has explained everything in her video. I'll definitely be using this technique in the future. You might want to keep an eye on SadDays' blog and facebook page. She's a wonderful crochet artist who is also working on an online stitch guide.

Trumpet

noreply@blogger.com (Kim) — Fri, 19 Apr 2013 09:50:00 +0000

I have an end of the week pattern surprise for you. It's a little trumpet! Enjoy!

Size
5cm/2in tall

Skill Level
Moderate. The crocheting is straightforward but it's quite a small project and so it's a little fiddly, particularly when stitching on the keys. Alternatively, you can glue on the keys with hot glue or craft glue or leave them out all together.

Note on yarn and hook size
I crochet with a light worsted (DK) weight yarn. You can use a slightly heavier or lighter yarn as long as you use the same type of yarn for the different colours. This will ensure your toy is in proportion. Use a hook size that will give you a nice firm stitch. I used a 3.5mm hook for this project.

Materials
Yarn
Yellow

Crochet Hook – 3.5mm or preferred size
Tapestry needle
Scissors

Terminology
***This pattern was written using US crochet terminology***
ch – Chain
Rnd – Round
sc – Single crochet
sc2tog – Single crochet two stitches together.
sl st – Slip stitch
st – Stitch. This term covers ch, sc, hdc, sl st and other stitches used in crochet.

Make a ring – The starting point for crocheting in a spiral. Use which ever method you prefer.
* * - Repeat the instructions between the asterisks as directed.
( ) – The number of stitches that should be in a completed round are placed in brackets at the end of that round’s instructions.

Instructions

Trumpet (in Yellow)
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 5 sc in ring (5)
Rnd 2-25: sc in each st around
Rnd 26: sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st (7)
Rnd 27: 2 sc in each st around (14)
Rnd 28: *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st* around (21)
Cut yarn and do an invisible fasten off, leaving a long tail of yarn to use later when joining the keys.

Keys (in Yellow)
Chain 6.
Row 1: sl st in 2nd chain from the hook, sl st in next 4 st (5)
Cut yarn and fasten off. Make three. Weave in yarn ends on two of the keys but leave a tail of yarn on the third one.

Assembly
***These are guidelines only. Be guided by your own eye at all times.***

Join the keys to the trumpet. Weave the tail of yarn on the trumpet through the bell and down through the tube. You want the tail of yarn to come out where the first key will be joined so twist the trumpet into shape to determine where this will be.

The first key will be joined where my index finger is sitting.

Pin the first key in position (be very careful not to jab yourself) and use the tail of yarn to stitch it on. Make sure the top sticks up a little above the tube.

Position the second key next to the first and stitch on.

Finally, pin the third key, the one with the tail of yarn, and stitch on. The tail of yarn should be at the bottom of the key.

Twist trumpet into shape. Using the same tail of yarn used to stitch down the keys, stitch together the tube of the trumpet so that it stays in shape.

Join the bottom of the keys to the trumpet tube. Use the tail of yarn on the third key to stitch the bottom of the keys to the bottom section of the trumpet tube.

And you're done. I had the horn section of "You Can Call Me Al" in my head the whole time I was making this. It was a fun project.

If anything is unclear, please let me know.

Copyright © Kim Lapsley 2013

My Tiny Heart

noreply@blogger.com (Kim) — Fri, 12 Apr 2013 10:11:00 +0000

A while back I crocheted a micro heart. It's 0.8cm wide and it's the smallest thing I've ever crocheted.

Someone requested the pattern so I'm sharing it in this post. This is my own pattern but I have to say that it has been influenced by other crochet patterns. Amigurumi hearts were some of the first items I crocheted. Unfortunately, I can't remember the different patterns I used in those early days of crochet - I know that MyGurumi's gorgeous Pop Heart pattern was one of them. The method for creating the humps/bulges of the heart is something I learned from these patterns and, even though I can't remember all their names, I give them credit for helping me with my tiny heart.

I hope you enjoy the pattern.

My Tiny Heart

Size
The size will depend on the hook and thread you use. My 0.8cm/0.3in wide heart was made with sewing cotton and a 0.6mm hook. My 4cm/1.6in wide heart was made with DK weight yarn and a 3.0mm hook.

Skill Level
Moderate. Like my micro pig, I'm not sure how to rate the skill level. It's a simple pattern but if you're attempting to make a very small heart and want to work with sewing thread and a fine hook, crocheting will be difficult. Micro crochet is still new to me and I'm still learning all the tricks but really the key is patience. Take it slow and you'll get there.

Materials
Yarn/Thread
Red

Crochet Hook - choose a size that matches your yarn/thread and that will give you a nice tight stitch.
Filling
Needle
Scissors

Terminology
***This pattern was written using US crochet terminology***
Rnd – Round
sc – Single crochet
sc2tog – Single crochet two stitches together.
sl st – Slip stitch
st – Stitch. This term covers ch, sc, hdc, sl st and other stitches used in crochet.

Make a ring – The starting point for crocheting in a spiral. Use which ever method you prefer.
* * - Repeat the instructions between the asterisks as directed.
( ) – The number of stitches that should be in a completed round are placed in brackets at the end of that round’s instructions.

Instructions

I'm using the word hump to describe the bulges of the heart. I wish I could think of a better word. Bulge seemed worse than hump and lobe seemed out of place. Ah well, on with the pattern.

First Hump (in Red)
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in each st around
Cut yarn leaving a tail. Sl st in next stitch and pull yarn through to fasten off. Do not weave in the tail of yarn.

Second Hump and Body of the Heart (in Red)
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in each st around

In Rnd 4 you will be crocheting the two humps together. As you crochet, make sure that the tail of yarn left on the first hump hangs between the two humps. (See, that sounds rude, right? Maybe I should have used the word lobe.) This will be used at the end to close up any gaps left between the humps.

Rnd 4: sc in next 6 st of the second hump, take the first hump and make a sc in stitch near the tail of yarn, then sc in the next 11 st around the first hump. When you reach the second hump, continue to crochet, sc in the remaining 6 st of the second hump (24)

And 4: ... take the first hump and make a sc in stitch near the tail of yarn (marked by white x)...

Rnd 5: *sc in next 2 st, sc2tog* around (18)
Rnd 6: sc in each st around
Rnd 7: *sc in next st, sc2tog* around (12)
Rnd 8: sc in each st around
Stuff the heart firmly.
Rnd 9: sc2tog around (6)
Cut yarn and weave through remaining stitches, pulling tight to close up hole. Weave in end. Use the tail of yarn hanging between the two humps to close up the small gap left between them.
Weave in yarn end.

Mini Crown

noreply@blogger.com (Kim) — Tue, 26 Mar 2013 13:45:00 +0000

Pattern for the small crown made for my Queen Bee, Bess.

Size
3cm/1.2in across

Skill Level
Easy.

Note on yarn and hook size
I crochet with a light worsted (DK) weight yarn. You can use a slightly heavier or lighter yarn as long as you use the same type of yarn for the different colours. This will ensure your toy is in proportion. Use a hook size that will give you a nice firm stitch. The 3.00mm is my favourite hook.

Materials
Yarn
Yellow

Crochet Hook – 3.00mm or preferred size
Tapestry needle

Terminology
***This pattern was written using US crochet terminology***
ch – Chain
Rnd – Round
sc – Single crochet
sl st – Slip stitch
st – Stitch. This term covers ch, sc, hdc, sl st and other stitches used in crochet.

* * - Repeat the instructions between the asterisks as directed.
( ) – The number of stitches that should be in a completed round are placed in brackets at the end of that round’s instructions.

Instructions

If you would like a larger crown, you can start the pattern with a longer foundation chain just as long as it has an even number of stitches in it. Alternatively, you can use a heavier weight yarn and a larger hook.

Chain 12. Sl st in first st to make a ring.
Rnd 1: sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 2: *sc in next st, chain 3, sl st in 2nd chain from the hook, sc in next chain, sc in next st* repeat all the way around (12, plus 6 points)
Cut yarn and fasten off. Leave a tail of yarn if you plan to attach the crown to a toy. You can use some watered-down pva glue to stiffen the points if they are a little wonky. Just dampen the points with the mixture, pinch into shape and let dry.

And that's it! Now all your amigurumis can be royalty …

Worker Bee

noreply@blogger.com (Kim) — Tue, 26 Mar 2013 12:28:00 +0000

The pattern for Queen Bess' worker bees. Let me know if you have any problems. Enjoy!

Size
7cm/2.8in long

Skill Level
Moderate. This pattern requires frequent colour changes. I recommend these two tutorials on changing yarn colour: Colour Changes in Amigurumi by June Gilbank and Crocheted Jogless Stripe by NeedleNoodles.

Note on yarn and hook size
I crochet with a light worsted (DK) weight yarn. You can use a slightly heavier or lighter yarn as long as you use the same type of yarn for the different colours. This will ensure your toy is in proportion. Use a hook size that will give you a nice firm stitch. The 3.00mm is my favourite hook.

Materials
Yarn
Black
Yellow
White

Crochet Hook – 3.00mm or preferred size
Filling
Tapestry needle
Black felt
Craft glue and/or thread and sharp needle for attaching felt

Terminology
***This pattern was written using US crochet terminology***
ch – Chain
Rnd – Round
sc – Single crochet
sc2tog – Single crochet two stitches together.
sl st – Slip stitch
st – Stitch. This term covers ch, sc, hdc, sl st and other stitches used in crochet.

Make a ring – The starting point for crocheting in a spiral. Use which ever method you prefer.
* * - Repeat the instructions between the asterisks as directed.
( ) – The number of stitches that should be in a completed round are placed in brackets at the end of that round’s instructions.

Instructions

Body (in Black and Yellow)

If you're not sure how to change yarn colour then check out these two great tutorials: Colour Changes in Amigurumi and Crocheted Jogless Stripe.

Start with Black.
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring (6)
Rnd 2-3: sc in each st around
Rnd 4: 2 sc in each st around (12)
Change to Yellow.
Rnd 5: *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st* around (18)
Rnd 6: *sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st* around (24)
Change to Black.
Rnd 7-8: sc in each st around
Change to Yellow.
Rnd 9-10: sc in each st around
Change to Black.
Rnd 11-12: sc in each st around
Change to Yellow.
Rnd 13-14: sc in each st around
Change to Black. Cut Yellow yarn and weave in end.
Rnd 15: sc in next 11 st, chain 6, 3 sc in 2nd chain from the hook, sl st in next 4 chains, sc in next 2 st, chain 6, 3 sc in 2nd chain from the hook, sl st in next 4 chains, sc in next 11 st (24, plus two antennae)
Rnd 16: *sc in next 4 st, sc2tog* around (20)
Rnd 17: *sc in next 3 st, sc2tog* around (16)
Start stuffing.
Rnd 18: *sc in next 2 st, sc2tog* around (12)
Finish stuffing firmly.
Rnd 19: sc2tog around (6)
Cut yarn and fasten off. Weave in all loose ends.

Legs (in Black)

Close-up of legs. You'll be making two sets of three legs.

Chain 7, sl st in 2nd chain from the hook, sl st in next 5 chains, chain 6, sl st in 2nd chain from the hook, sl st in next 4 chains, chain 5, sl st in 2nd chain from the hook, sl st in next 3 chains
This gives you one set of three legs. Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn to use when joining the legs to the body. Weave in other loose ends. Make two.

Wings (in White)
Chain 5.
Row 1: sc in 2nd chain from the hook, sc in next 3 chains, chain 1, turn (4)
Row 2: sl st in next st, sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st, chain 1, turn (5)
Row 3: sc in next 4 st, sl st in next st (5)
Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn to use when joining the wings to the body. Make two.

Big Eye (in White)
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)
Sl st in next st and pull through yarn. Leave a tail for joining to the body.

Small Eye (in White)
Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring (6)
Sl st in next st and pull through yarn. Leave a tail for joining to the body.

You can now attach a small circle of black felt to each eye to make the pupils, using needle and thread or glue. They should sit off-centre, close to the edge of the eye.

Assembly
***These are guidelines only. Be guided by your own eye at all times.***

Join wings to the body. The wings sit on the middle black stripe. Pin to the body and use tails of yarn left on the wings to stitch them on. I like to give a slight curve to the front of the wing.

Join the legs to the body. The legs sit on the same stripe as the wings but on the other side of the body. The smallest leg (chain 5, sl st in 2nd chain from the hook, sl st in next 3 chains) should be at the front. Pin to the stripe and use the tails of yarn on the legs to stitch them to the body.

Join the eyes to the body. The eyes sit closer together on the front of the bee. Use the tails of yarn on the eyes to stitch them to the body.

Add facial features. Use white yarn to stitch in a mouth. You can use some red felt to make a tongue and then glue or stitch it on to the face.

Now you have your first bee. Ready to make your own swarm?

Copyright © Kim Lapsley 2012