World helpdesk

How To Create A Blog

noreply@blogger.com (bisnis) — Tue, 08 Jul 2008 06:31:00 +0000

What Is A Blog?

The word 'blog' is short for weblog - a personal web page where you can write about anything you want: your daily life, your experiences, music you like, your opinions on world events...anything.

Blogs have enabled millions of people to have their voices heard, to report on news from their country without media bias or government censorship, and to post political views that might otherwise remain unheard.

In this tutorial we will use the popular and easy-to-use service Blogger to create a simple blog.

How To Get Started

Blogger is owned by Google and has a straightforward interface to make creating your blog as quick and easy as possible.

To get started, go to the web site at www.blogger.com.

On the main page you will notice a list that constantly updates with the names of blogs that have had new 'posts', or entries, along with a Search box to search blogs from across the web.

You may want to have a look at a few blogs to get an idea of the kinds of things people write about, and how your own blog might look.

To get started making your own blog, click on the Create Your Blog Now button.

Create An Account

The first step requires you to create an account with Google, which can be used on other Google services as well as Blogger.

Fill in the boxes by entering your e-mail and choosing a password. You will also need to choose a Display name - this is the name that will appear by your blog entries.

Now type the characters you see in the image, which verifies you are a real person and not some automatic sign-up program. Check the box to accept the Terms of Service and click the Continue button.

Name Your Blog

Now you need to choose a title for your blog. Choose something that is unique and reflects the subject of your blog, rather than just 'my blog'.

Next choose the web address (URL) of your blog. You will probably want a similar phrase here as your title - type lowercase and without any spaces. Most common addresses will have already been taken by other bloggers. You can check if the address is available by clicking the Check Availability link.

The full address will look something like 'http://[yourblogname].blogspot.com'. This is the location of your blog on the World Wide Web. You can give this address to your friends who can type it into their browser address bar as with any other web site address, to go straight to your page.

The final option on this page, Advanced Blog Setup, is only for users who want to store their blog pages on another web site away from Blogger.com. Continue to the next step.

Choose A Template

To get you started as quickly as possible, Blogger offers various templates which give you a set look and layout for your blog.

Later if you wish you can choose a different template or even design your own. For now, select a template you like by clicking on it. You can get a preview of what the page will look like by clicking on the preview template link. Click Continue when you have chosen a template.

Blogger will now create your blog. You are now able to start writing entries, create your profile or customise the look of your page. Click Start Posting to begin.

Create A Post

You will see four menu tabs at the top of the page: Posting, Settings, Template and View Blog.

Under the Posting tab you can manage your blog entries. You can create a new post or make changes to existing entries.

The entry box for posts is similar to the message box you see when composing an e-mail message. You can type a title then write your post in the box, using the menu options to change font size and colours, or to add a web site link.

You can also add an image to your post. Click the Add Image icon and use the Browse box to find the picture on your computer. You can choose whether the image is to the left, center or right of your text, and the Image size. When ready, click Upload Image then Done.

When you have finished writing your first entry, click on the Publish button.

You should now see a message telling you that your blog has published successfully. Click the View Blog link to see what your blog looks like with your first post. Click the Back button of your browser to return to the Posting section.

Edit Posts

If you need to make any changes to a post, click on Edit Posts from the menu. Click the Edit button next to the post you wish to change. When you have finished making changes, you must remember to click Publish to accept them.

Settings

Click on the Settings menu tab. There are a number of options for changing how your blog looks and works. Here are a few of the options you may want to edit:

Click on the Basic option from the top menu and you can enter a description explaining what your blog is about. This will appear near the title on your page.

You can choose other options including whether you want your blog to be listed when people search Blogger.com. You can also Delete This Blog if you no longer want your blog.

Click on the Formatting option on the menu. You can choose the number of posts or how many days' worth of posts you want to show on your main page.

The more full posts your main page displays, the longer it will take to load. Any posts you choose not to display here will still exist, as each post also has its own separate page which can be accessed via a link on the main page.

You should now change the date and time options to match your country and timezone.

Click on Comments on the menu. Here you can set options affecting the comments that people may choose to leave on your page after reading your post.

The Permissions section on the menu allows you to choose who is allowed to view your blog, and whether anyone else is allowed to add posts.

Template Options

Click on the Template menu tab. Here you have the ability to click and drag page elements and rearrange the layout of your blog design. Click on Fonts and Colors to set individual colours for different areas and sections of text.

You can also Pick New Template, or if you know how to edit web page code (HTML) you can make complex changes to your existing template or even create a new one.

Remember to click Save when finished making changes to your template.

View Your Blog

Click on the View Blog menu tab at any time to view your blog. Newer posts appear at the top of the page.

The side menus on your page will usually have links to previous entries and archives of all your posts, as well as your blog description and a link to your profile.

Click the Customize link in the top-right, or the Back button of your browser to return to editing your blog.

The Dashboard

The Blogger control panel page is called the Dashboard. Click the Dashboard link in the top-right of the editing pages to access it. From here you can see a list of the blogs you have created, and create new blogs.

On the right-hand menu you can Edit or View your Profile. Here you can add a photo and let visitors see more details about yourself, such as your job or your favourite movies.

When you have finished editing your blog click the Sign Out link at the top-right of the page.

Return To Your Blog

Whenever you want to log in to your account in the future to add new posts, go to www.blogger.com and sign in at the top-right of the page. Enter your username (or e-mail address) and password to log in.

Other Blogging Information

Blogger.com is just one of many web sites allowing you to share your thoughts and ideas with others online. Some services even allow you to share photos, videos and music. Examples include Live Spaces and MySpace.

You can also create your blog by making your own web site or using software such as WordPress.

There are other types of blogs becoming more popular such as vlogs (video blogs) and photoblogs.

To find blogs you can use search engines such as Technorati and Blogdigger.

Many blog users also use RSS feeds to get the latest posts delivered to their PCs rather than having to visit all their favourite blogs every day to check for updates.

You could register a separate domain name with a company such as 1 & 1 Internet and then have that address redirect to your blog. So instead of typing in 'http://[yourblogname].blogspot.com', users could just type 'www.[yourblogname].com'.

As your blog grows you may find the features in Blogger too limited for your needs, and eventually decide to create your own web site.

Tips on buying a Laptop Computer

noreply@blogger.com (bisnis) — Tue, 08 Jul 2008 06:29:00 +0000

INTRODUCTION

Purchasing a home or business laptop can be a much more confusing and sometimes frightening experience as most users today have some experience with a desktop computer but not as many have experience with a laptop, what is properly known as a portable computer. Portable computers are an excellent solution for anyone who needs to be portable and have all of their information on a small computer. Below is a listing of help and tips when considering to purchase a laptop computer.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

When purchasing a computer, it is likely that you will have a general idea of what you may like in the computer or how you would like to configure the computer. Below is a listing of the various components likely to be found in a computer, and recommendations and tips when considering any of the below components.

Device	Short recommendation
Battery Usage	A very important consideration for any users that need to have a working laptop on the road or in the air. Verify when purchasing a portable computer how long the battery lasts. Be cautious, as many manufacturers will indicate a battery usage time but this may be at the lowest possible settings; ensure that the manufacturer clarifies what the standard battery usage life is when using the portable computer in all power modes.
Display	All portable computers come with a type of display. While it is almost always possible to hook up an external monitor when traveling with the laptop, the display is an important consideration. When looking at the display, ensure it is large enough for your needs. A very easy method of reducing the cost of the laptop is to reduce the size of the screen, unless price is an very important consideration we highly suggest that you purchase a laptop with at least a 12" or lager LCD and recommend an LCD size of 14" Complete buying tip information on Flat Panel / LCD solutions can be found on our flat panel buying tips page.
Drives	Drives are sometimes overlooked when considering a portable computer but can be an important consideration. Portable computers can come with various drive configurations, for example: One drive bay where the CD-ROM and the Floppy drive are interchangeable. For users who utilize the floppy drive often, this may be an issue; however, for other users who do not utilize the floppy, this may be a more appropriate solution as the computer will generally be lighter and thinner with one drive bay. Two drive bay portable computers generally have a floppy solution as well as CD-ROM solutions. These computers will generally be a less expensive computer when compared to the other solutions; however, it is the generally always the heaviest of all the solutions. No drive bay portable computers allow for a laptop to be extremely light and utilize external drives instead of internal. Pay close attention to the price of these laptops; while it may appear to be a portable solution, many manufacturers will charge you an additional price for the external drives, which will eventually be needed. Finally, some users may also want to consider different media solutions. For example, many laptops allow for a standard floppy drive or an LS120 drive. The LS120 drive can read floppy diskettes and at the same time be used as a backup storage device as it can store up to 120MB on a LS120 diskette. Additionally consider the option of a DVD* or CD-RW drive as opposed to a CD-ROM drive. *If you are considering a DVD solution, verify if the DVD comes with hardware or software decoding. Hardware decoding for laptops is accomplished by using a PCMCIA card and will add onto the overall price of the laptop.
Hard Drive	Hard drives have and always will be an important consideration to think about when purchasing a new portable computer. Like a standard computer, the hard drive will be the destination of all your files and information, and if that drive is to become full, that drive will need to be replaced or another drive will need to be added to the computer. When looking at the space of the hard drive, always get the maximum size hard drive, considering you will eventually always run out of space. Complete buying tip information on hard disk drives can be found on our hard disk drive buying tips page.
Lock	Does the portable computer include any type of locking system? If yes, what type of locking system is included? This can be very important for users who are on the road.
Memory	Memory is and has always been an important consideration when looking at purchasing a computer. Determine the amount of memory included in the computer as well as verify if that memory can be upgraded in the future. The more memory the computer has, the more efficient the computer will run. Complete buying tip information on computer memory can be found on our memory buying tips page.
Modem	If a modem is required, ensure that a modem is included with the portable computer. In addition, verify if the modem is an internal or PC-CARD (PCMCIA) modem as you may require all the available PC-CARD slots in the future. PC-CARD modems are Type II that for most computers will allow for an additional Type II to be connected. Complete buying tips and information on modems can be found on our modem buying tips page.
Network Card	If a network connection is required, ensure that a network card is included with the portable computer. In addition, verify if the network card is an internal or PC-CARD (PCMCIA) network card as you may require all the available PC-CARD slots in the future. Network PC-CARDs are Type II that for most computers will allow for an additional Type II to be connected. Complete buying tips and information on network cards can be found on our network card buying tips page.
Processor	The computer processor is and will always be an important consideration when purchasing a computer. Today, with multiple CPU/Processor manufacturers, it may be more confusing as well as more cost efficient to look at the different processor manufacturers as well as the type of computer processors. Complete buying tips and information on computer processors can be found on our CPU buying tips page.
Sound Card	Sound cards are important when looking at purchasing a computer; however, the majority of all computer users will find that most standard sound cards will suit their needs. However, some users may enjoy purchasing more advanced sounds cards that will increase the amount of speakers that can be used and in some games and programs and the sound quality and capabilities. When looking at the sound aspect of a portable computer, many laptops do not have sufficient sound and will require external speakers or headphones. Ensure that the sound quality meets your needs.
Weight	Weight is a very important consideration when considering a portable as the computer will generally be carried; the lighter the portable computer, the more easy it will be to carry.
Video Card	Video cards are becoming an extremely important factor when purchasing a computer. While this may surprise some, a video card can make or break a computer when it comes to playing games on the computer. Most games today require additional video memory as well as special video modes such as OpenGL. With a video card with little video memory or without these modes, the computer will be unable to play these games. In addition, the advances in video cards can dramatically increase the user enjoyment of the game being played. Complete buying tips and information on video cards can be found on our video card buying tips page.

BRAND OF COMPUTER

When looking at purchasing a portable computer, you will likely hear different stories, some good and some bad. Regardless if the story is good or bad, these stories are always based off of the experience of that user. While it may be true that the user had a bad or terrible experience with that computer, all computer manufacturers have had users who have had a bad experience and there is no such thing as a bad or perfect computer manufacturer. Below is a listing of various things to consider when purchasing a computer, and in some cases, how to tell the good from the bad and help allow you to purchase the portable computer that will suit your needs.

Add-ons	Some computer manufacturers may try to sell additional add-ons when purchasing a portable computer. Unless you have done your research on the additional add-on, do not consider the add-on. While in some cases it may be beneficial to get a printer, scanner, camera or PC Cards with a computer, you may be paying premium for the additional add-on, or in the case of the printer, you may have to pay premium on the ink in the future. Do you research, ensure that if you get an additional hardware / add-ons that the hardware will suit your needs and that it does not end up being something that is not going to be used. Free add-ons? Some computer companies may entice you into purchasing a computer by giving you free add-ons. These add-ons may be advertised as free, however, ensure or ask if the add-on price is not just being added to the overall computer price.
Documentation	While most manufacturers today are reducing the amount of documentation included with their computers, an excellent question, especially if the computer is being purchased by a new computer user, is "what type of documentation is included with the computer?" All computer manufacturers will include some type of paper documentation or paper inserts; however, does this information include documentation about upgrading the computer in the future? How to connect the cables to the computer? Documentation on how to use the software such as the additional included software? Note: It is important to distinguish between paper documentation and on-line documentation. On-line documentation, which is being found more today, is information that is either locally on the computer or can be accessed via the Internet. If the information is available over the Internet, see how that information looks and if it suits your needs before purchasing the computer.
Location	We use location to describe several different topics. First, what is the location of where the computer is purchased: If the computer is purchased at a local retail store, can the computer be returned to that store if unsatisfactory? If the computer is purchased through mail order or directly through the computer manufacturer or reseller, where can the computer be returned if unsatisfactory? Second, can the store location of where the computer was purchased service the computer? If not where is the closest location to where the computer can be serviced? Third, if the computer is purchased directly from the computer manufacturer and is shipped through mail, how is it shipped? What is the time period for the computer to arrive to your destination? What happens if the computer is damaged during shipping?
Refurbished	Refurbished is a term used to describe a computer or a hardware device or component in a computer that has been used; however, it has been looked at and determined to be in working order. However, because the product has been used or purchased, it cannot be sold as new. Refurbished computers will have a lower price and are generally a good deal for users who may not have a lot of money to spend on a new computer. It is important, however, to compare the price of the refurbished computer to a new computer as well as to review all of the tips on this page as all the same rules, tricks and tips still apply.
Service	Service is an important consideration to look at when looking to purchase a computer, new or used. The service is how many companies describe the repair of a computer if it or a component within it is to become broken. Below is a listing of what types of service to look for: What type of service is offered? Is the service onsite, meaning a technician will come to your location to replace or fix a bad component. If the service is onsite, is it for the complete time of the warranty? If onsite is not offered, what is and for how long? Can the computer be taken to a local service center? If yes, what is the closest authorized service center? What is the time frame the service takes to occur? For example, if the computer has a bad component, what is the time it will take for a technician to come onsite and replace that component, or what is the time it will take to have the computer sent in to be fixed? Finally, if that time frame is not accomplished, what is the company willing to do? Would they be willing to provide you with a loaned computer? Because the computer is a portable computer, is International Service available? This will allow users who may be in a different country to have their computer fixed in that country.
Software	Software, for many computer users especially new users, is thought to be an important consideration when purchasing a new computer. Granted there is software that we highly recommend looking for when purchasing a computer, such as word processor or spread sheet program, some computer companies may over hype the software package. Below is a listing of what to look for when looking at the software included with a computer. Does the software include Microsoft Office or Corel Suite? These packages allow you to have a word processor and/or a spread sheet. For the majority of all users, this should be an important consideration. Is the software full versions of the software or is the software demo programs or shareware programs?
Support	While you can always contact Computer Hope for support, manufacturer support for most users will be a very important consideration, as if an issue arises with the computer, you must be able to be able to contact a support representative. Things to consider when looking at the support options of a computer are: Is support open 24 hours, 7 days a week? If not, what are the hours? Is support open on holidays? If not, what days are it closed? What support options are available? Phone? E-mail? Web? Chat?
Upgrade ability	While this option may not be considered at first when purchasing a computer, it is an important consideration. Below is a listing of different options to look for when looking to upgrade a portable computer. What can be upgraded in the computer? RAM? CPU? Hard Drive? If available to upgrade, what are the maximum amounts or is it specified within documentation provided with the computer? Are the upgrades something that the end-user can do or does it require a service center to install?
Warranty	Finally, what warranty is offered by the computer manufacturer? How long is the warranty? Does the warranty cover both hardware and software issues? Warranty can cause frustrations for most users. We highly recommend that a computer only be considered if it has at least a one-year warranty. Many cheap computers will only come with a 90 day warranty; meaning if a part goes bad, you will have to pay for the part as well as the service. This may not be an issue for users who just need a cheap computer and are willing to replace parts and service the computer.

SCAMS

Unfortunately, like anything, it is possible to be tricked or for computer companies to scam you. Below is a listing of what to look for when purchasing a computer.

Get what you pay for - Ensure that the product you are purchasing is what you are paying for. It has been known that computer companies may list a processor being a specific speed but may actually have a different speed into the computer. This, unfortunately, can be very easy as any user can 'over clock' a processor, making it appear as one speed but in reality being a completely different speed. For example, you may buy a 733MHz processor but instead get a 500MHz.

To determine the processor speed, open the computer and look at the processor itself. Do not look at the processor through a software program or through BIOS as these values can be changed or tricked.
Legal software - When purchasing a computer, ensure it comes with legal software. Many end-users or small computer companies who build or sell computers may not provide you with legal copies of the software, which is illegal. Verify that the software that came with your computer is on a standard CD and not a burnt CD. A burnt or home-made CD will generally be a different looking CD and have a gold or green bottom. Ensure that if the software requires a license or registration number that it was included with the computer. An example of software that includes these certificates is Microsoft Office and Windows.

source : http://www.computerhope.com/btips/laptop.htm

How-To: The 1-2-3 Method Of Troubleshooting Your Broadband

noreply@blogger.com (bisnis) — Wed, 02 Jul 2008 04:48:00 +0000

Situation: Your internet connection dies and you’re not sure whether it’s your computer, router, cabling, reception (i.e. wireless), modem or ISP’s fault.

If your broadband connection dies for whatever reason, you can use a simple 1-2-3 method which 99% of the time works in reestablishing your connection.

After turning OFF everything, you turn things on in this order:

1. Your modem. Power it on and wait two minutes so it can establish its connection. It usually doesn’t take this long, but better safe than sorry.

Modem won’t turn off? Unplug the power cord. If it still won’t turn off, inspect it for a battery backup. If it has one, pop the battery out, wait 10 seconds (to ensure it goes completely off), then pop it back in.

2. Your router. The router will establish a connection much faster than your modem will (usually in less than 10 seconds).

Router won’t turn off? Unplug the power cord. Plug back in to turn it on.

3. Your computer. Boot the computer as you normally would.

You turn things on in this order because the computer can’t make a network connection without the router booted and its connection established. The router can’t make a connection without the modem booted and its connection established. So in order for everything to connect properly, the power-on order has to be modem, router, computer. Computer connects to router which connects to modem.

Further troubleshooting tips

Modem will not establish a connection to the ISP

This is either the ISP’s fault or the modem’s fault. You need to call your ISP to troubleshoot this one. They (should) be able to confirm whether or not you need a replacement modem.

If it is the modem’s fault, in most instances the ISP will replace your modem free of charge if it was originally provided by them.

There is also the possibility the cabling going to the modem from the ISP might be faulty. The ISP will determine whether or not this is the case.

Modem will not establish a connection to the ISP at specific times of the day

This is actually a more common problem than you’d think. If you encounter the instance where your broadband connection stops only at very specific hours of the day, this is an instance where weather is affecting the connection. It normally happens at dawn or dusk where the ambient temperature outside changes enough to cause enough condensation where a connection filter on the pole fails. Once the condensation is gone, the connection magically (but not really) reestablishes itself.

Solution: ISP needs to send a tech out, get on the pole and replace a filter (or two).

You know if you have this problem if your connection cuts out at very specific times of the day for about 2 to 4 hours, then comes back. It should be noted that this is not a problem you can fix. The ISP has to take care of it.

It should also be noted that the ISP absolutely positively will not send out a tech unless your replace your modem first (because the ISP will always and without fail blame your equipment before anything else).

Router will not establish a connection to the modem

There’s an old saying in IT: 99% of all LAN problems are cabling.

The same reigns true with your small network setup at home. If a router won’t establish a connection to the router, replace the network cable first.

If the network connection still will not establish, consider replacing the router as there’s not much else you can do.

Wireless router will not broadcast

If you have a wireless router and you cannot make a connection to it over the air even if the computer is right next to it, change the channel. You have 11 to choose from in your router’s administration program. The channel you have chosen is most likely 6. Change to 11. If that doesn’t work, try 3.

This is assuming your wireless card still works properly.

Computer will not establish a connection to the router

Change your network cable first. If that doesn’t work, you have at least 3 other open physical ports on your router. Try a different one.

Network cards very rarely fail (as there’s not much to break). I don’t suggest replacing a NIC unless absolutely necessary.

MAKE FIREFOX like IE7 VISTA

noreply@blogger.com (bisnis) — Fri, 27 Jun 2008 07:05:00 +0000

Theme default Firefox Windows Vista did not join with all available there.
With help several add-ounce, you could make tampilan Firefox was similar with IE7.

1 VISTA-AERO
INSTALLATION
To get tampilan this, the first matter that will be done by us was menginstalasi two add-ounce Firefox.
Add-ounce first that would we the installation was theme had a name Vista-aero.
Undertake Firefox and afterwards was opened link along with: https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/ﬁ refox/addon/4988.
After the installation, to the Tools menu, the clique Add-ounce.
The clique tab Themes, the clique Vista-aero, and afterwards clicked Use Theme.
Be closed and undertook again Firefox to use theme that was new.
2 PERSONAL MENU
installations
Further the Personal Menu installation (https://addons. mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/3895) that we could hide the menu to Menus Toolbar (in fact the Menus Toolbar whole), and designed the menu personally with only several setting.
After the installation, the Restart Firefox clique.
The first matter that will be seen by you were the menu moved.
His position now is the same as the location of the bar menu to IE (when you pressed the switch [Alt]).
Must be recorded by you that the switch shortcut still continued to work as usual (Ctrl+S, Ctrl+T, Ctrl+O, et cetera).
3 hid MENUS TOOLBAR
To hide Menus Toolbar (Personally Menu), the right clique in sembarang the place to Navigation Bar (the Home switch was the appropriate choice).
6 hid ITEM LAIN
To more was similar with IE7, hid Bookmarks Toolbar, item Home, Bookmarks, History, and if necessary item the Menu to Navigation Bar.
The right clique in sembarang the place to Navigation Bar, and afterwards eliminated the sign hit ([1]) to Bookmarks Toolbar.
The clique again right in sembarang the place to Navigation Bar, and this time chose Customize.
Sluggish item to Navigation Bar to the Customize Toolbar window.
MYFIREFOX

Along with was screenshot Firefox and the Explorer Internet 7 that was undertaken to Windows Vista.
Like that was seen by you tampilan Firefox now is similar with IE7.
Other theme that could try to be used by you to make tampilan Firefox like IE7 was myFireFox (https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/ﬁ refox/addon/4129).

Panasonic HS100 and SD100 Full HD Camcorder

noreply@blogger.com (bisnis) — Thu, 26 Jun 2008 03:03:00 +0000

Panasonic extends its high definition product suite, with the announcement of two new Full HD Camcorder, the HDC-SD100 and HDC-HS100, the first AVCHD camcorder 3MOS a new system developed by Panasonic, and on the basis of society ‘S 3CCD technology offers excellent image quality video.

Compared to a conventional 1MOS, Panasonic nine 3MOS system more vivid, true-to-life colors richer details and graduation. This high precision Imaging element is the first in the world to draw in lighting as low as 2 Lux and help the SD100 and capture-HS100 extremely clear and bright images.

The HDC-SD100 discs SD Memory Card, and comes packed with an 8 GB SD Memory Card standard accessories, while the HDC-HS100 hybrid for both sets of data SD Memory Card and its internal hard drive 60 GB *. Both models are functions manual for users wanting more precise control of zoom, focus, iris, shutter and white balance.

The new models of Panasonic car Intelligent (AI)-mode. The two new AVCHD camcorders Panasonic 3MOS depending on the sensor, a 2.7-inch, 12x optical zoom, 5.1-channel surround sound of his home and HDMI. Both come packaged with the camcorder HD Writer 2.6 software for Windows, and support for Apple iMovie’08. These two models of Panasonic are in September 2008 for the manufacturer to recommend a target price of € 1099.95 for the HDC-SD100 and $ 1299.95 for the HDC-HS100.

www.dailydigitals.com

Introduction to the Registry

noreply@blogger.com (bisnis) — Tue, 24 Jun 2008 02:13:00 +0000

The Registry is a database of nearly all the settings for Windows and your installed applications. The following is a brief collection of information, tips, and troubleshooting techniques involving the Windows Registry. Check out the Glossary for definitions of any of the technical terms used below.

Shameless ad: Each of the Annoyances books has an entire chapter devoted to the registry, and are considered essential guides if you want to learn more.

It is always advisable to back up your registry before making any changes to it. Note that the Registry is intended to be a little intimidating, because it is possible to screw up your entire system if you don't know what you're doing. If you back up the Registry before continuing, you eliminate this possibility.

To back up the Registry in Windows 95/98/Me, just make copies of the registry files (described below). In Windows 2000 and Windows XP, you'll need special backup software to make an effective and complete Registry backup.

Your other alternative is to use Registry Patches (see below) to back up portions of the registry before editing.

How the Registry is stored

In Windows 95, 98, and Me, the Registry is contained in two hidden files in your Windows directory, called USER.DAT and SYSTEM.DAT.
In Windows 2000 and Windows XP, the Registry is stored in several Hives, located in the \windows\system32\config and \Documents and Settings\{username} folders.

Structure of the Registry
The Registry has a hierarchal structure, like the directories on your hard disk. Each branch (denoted by a folder icon in the Registry Editor, see below) is called a Key. Each key can contain other keys, as well as Values. Each value contains the actual information stored in the Registry. There are three types of values; String, Binary, and DWORD - the use of these depends upon the context.

There are six main branches (five in Windows 2000 and Windows XP), each containing a specific portion of the information stored in the Registry. They are as follows:

HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT - this branch contains all of your file types as well as OLE information for all your OLE-aware applications.
HKEY_CURRENT_USER - this branch points to the part of HKEY_USERS appropriate for the current user.
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE - this branch contains information about all of the hardware and software installed on your computer. Since you can specify multiple hardware configurations, the current hardware configuration is specified in HKEY_CURRENT_CONFIG.
HKEY_USERS - this branch contains certain preferences (such as colors and control panel settings) for each of the users of the computer. In Windows 95/98/Me, the default branch here contains the currently-logged in user. In Windows 2000/XP, the default branch here contains a template to be used for newly-added users.
HKEY_CURRENT_CONFIG - this branch points to the part of HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE appropriate for the current hardware configuration.
HKEY_DYN_DATA (Windows 95/98/Me only) - this branch points to the part of HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE, for use with Windows' Plug-&-Play subsystem.

Using the Registry Editor
The Registry Editor (regedit.exe) is included with Windows to enable you to view and edit the contents of the Registry. When you open the Registry Editor, you'll see a window divided into two panes. The left side shows a tree with folders (see Structure of the Registry above), and the right side shows the contents (values) of the currently selected folder (key).

To expand a certain branch, click on the little plus sign [+] to the left of any folder, or just double-click on the folder. To display the contents of a key (folder), just click the desired key, and look at the values listed on the right side. You can add a new key or value by selecting New from the Edit menu. You can rename any value and almost any key with the same method used to rename files; right-click on an object and click rename, or click on it twice (slowly), or just press F2 on the keyboard. Lastly, you can delete a key or value by clicking on it, and pressing Delete on the keyboard, or by right-clicking on it, and choosing Delete.

Importing, Exporting, and Applying Registry Patches
Although you can edit the Registry with the Registry Editor (see above), you can also make changes by using Registry patches. A Registry patch is a simple text file with the .REG extension that contains one or more keys or values. If you double-click on a .REG file, the patch is applied to the registry. This is a good way to share or back up small portions of the registry for use on your own computer, or someone else's, because (among other reasons) it's much simpler and less dangerous than manually editing the Registry.

You can create a Registry patch by opening the Registry Editor, selecting a branch, and choosing Export from the File menu. Then, specify a filename, and press OK. You can then view the Registry patch file by opening it in Notepad (right-click on it and select Edit). Again, just double-click on a Registry patch file (or use Import in the Registry Editor's File menu) to apply it to the registry.

In the book In addition to covering the previous topics with substantially more depth, the Annoyances books also discuss the following:

What to Do With a Corrupted Registry
Compacting the Registry
Searching the Registry effectively
Accessing the Registry with the Windows Script Host (WSH)
Using the Registry Checker

Source

Novatel Wireless Ovation MC950D USB HSPA Modem

noreply@blogger.com (bisnis) — Fri, 20 Jun 2008 08:39:00 +0000

Nowadays, Internet connectivity ranks high in our hectic everyday schedules, regardless of the fact that we have places to visit, people to meet, and things to get done. It’s not surprising that we’re practically as dependent on the Internet as we are on electricity. Thus, we need absolute on-the-road mobility with universal connectivity. Today we’re going to review Novatel’s Ovation MC950D HSPA mobile broadband USB modem.

The Ovation MC950D is a 3G modem based on the latest HSUPA, HSDPA, and UMTS technologies. HSUPA stands for High-Speed Uplink Packet Access, HSDPA stands for High-Speed Downlink Packet Access, and UMTS represents Universal Mobile Telecommunications System technology. These are key technologies of 3G, which offers the most cutting-edge high performance data access speeds.

Presumably, the Ovation MC950D and its younger sister, the MC930D, are the world’s smallest modems. This is possible thanks to their latest innovative design, which is similar to the USB stick form factor standards. It fits comfortably in a pocket. And most importantly, backwards compatibility isn’t neglected because the modem can switch back to quad-band GPRS/EDGE 2G technologies when tri-band UMTS 3G signals aren’t reachable.

The modem supports up to 7.2mbps downlink data access speeds and 2.1mbps uplink. The aforementioned are architectural limitations by design because these speeds are 100% dependent on carriers and network operators. This gadget doesn’t bring you the Internet “for free;” you need to sign up with a carrier for a plan or account in your area, and then you receive an UMTS HSUPA/HSDPA compatible SIM card.

Novatel Wireless optimized this modem for North America, Europe, and Japan, but technically worldwide support is possible as long as there is the necessary network coverage on the supported bands. It is platform independent so it works fine on Microsoft Windows, MAC OSX, UNIX, and Linux operating systems.

There are lots of network partners that are selling the Ovation MC950D modem. More often than not, these partners are network operators and, therefore, you can also sign up with them right away. For this review, the modem was acquired through Vodafone so it sports the “Vodafone” logo instead of Novatel Wireless. The red SIM card is also from Vodafone.

Nevertheless, we can’t continue before examining its price. The Ovation MC950D is available for around £159.80, €210, and US$320 at the time of writing. Sure, it’s not a bargain, but you need to pay the price for innovation and universal connectivity. Additionally, the plans can go up to €30 per month, but mostly this depends on features - whether it’s unlimited or not, your area, how the network looks there, etc.

Now that you know what to expect, let’s start this review. Turn the page!

www.devhardware.com

Lock Folders Without Downloading any Software

noreply@blogger.com (bisnis) — Thu, 19 Jun 2008 03:49:00 +0000

Did you know that a little txt file (saved to a .bat file) can lock any folder on your Pc? Like if you wanted to hide some valuable data from somebody, you can easily do it! this text file doesn’t do the normal “hide file” but actually hides the file away even when you have the “show hidden files and folders” on the default control panel file options…

Here’s how to lock folders on ur pc…

Copy exactly this below (incl **)

**********************************************************
cls
@ECHO OFF
title Folder Locker
if EXIST "Control Panel.{21EC2020-3AEA-1069-A2DD-08002B30309D}" goto UNLOCK
if NOT EXIST Locker goto MDLOCKER
:CONFIRM
echo Are you sure u want to Lock the folder(Y/N)
set/p "cho=>"
if %cho%==Y goto LOCK
if %cho%==y goto LOCK
if %cho%==n goto END
if %cho%==N goto END
echo Invalid choice.
goto CONFIRM
:LOCK
ren Locker "Control Panel.{21EC2020-3AEA-1069-A2DD-08002B30309D}"
attrib +h +s "Control Panel.{21EC2020-3AEA-1069-A2DD-08002B30309D}"
echo Folder locked
goto End
:UNLOCK
echo Enter password to Unlock folder
set/p "pass=>"
if NOT %pass%== type your password here goto FAIL
attrib -h -s "Control Panel.{21EC2020-3AEA-1069-A2DD-08002B30309D}"
ren "Control Panel.{21EC2020-3AEA-1069-A2DD-08002B30309D}" Locker
echo Folder Unlocked successfully
goto End
:FAIL
echo Invalid password
goto end
:MDLOCKER
md Locker
echo Locker created successfully
goto End
:End

Copy txt and paste it into notepad (start-> run-> Notepad.exe)

the line where it says “if NOT %pass%== type your password here goto FAIL”

type in your password there like this: if NOT %pass%== Geniushackers.com goto FAIL

Save as blah.bat (file->save as) and exit notepad. Double click on blah.bat and you will see a new folder on your desktop called “Locker” Copy all the files you need to be hidden there. Double click on Blah.bat again, and it will ask you if you want to hide the folders, type in y and press Enter. to unhide, double click blah.bat, type in your password and press enter

Finally you are done!

If you want to edit it like without saying

echo Enter password to Unlock folder

your boss may get suspicious,

Rather type in

echo What Is the answer?

Or something like that and say it is a game.

geniushacker.com

How To Fix A Bad Sector

noreply@blogger.com (bisnis) — Tue, 17 Jun 2008 03:50:00 +0000

What Is a “Bad Sector”?

A bad sector, also known as a “surface defect”, is simply a sector on a computer’s disk drive that is physically damaged and therefore unable to be read. Usually, it is detected by the SCANDISK or CHKDSK utilities software that your operating system is equipped with.

When SCANDISK or CHKDSK find the bad sectors on your drive, they mark them so that the operating system will skip them in the future. This is known as standard disk repair.

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Fixing Bad Sectors

Many PC users may come across bad sectors on their computers and not know how to fix them. Fortunately, a bad sector is not a lost sector – there is a way to save them. Once the bad sector is marked, the disk controller will remap the logical sector to a different area on the hard drive.

Since the drive has many spare sectors, the only reason the operating system would detect a bad sector would be if the surface of the disk drive was failing.

If this happens, it means the drive has run out of spare sectors and can no longer remap bad ones. This is very bad news for your operating system.

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Common Symptoms

There are several common symptoms of bad sectors. One is the system blue screen. This is when your monitor screen suddenly turns blue duing the middle of an operation. Often, this is because your system is unable to read a sector.

Another symptom is constant system freezes. This occurs because the operating system is unable to access the sector information it needs to load a page or open a file. Other symptoms include: “drive not formatted” error, “drive or device not found”, or “operating system not found”.

All of these error messages are signs that your computer system’s registry and memory are corrupted and need a fix.

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Bad Sector Dangers

If system structures like the FAT are affected by bad sectors, it could cause your computer to freeze or even crash. That is where RegCure comes in.

RegCure’s software addresses sectors below the the file system, enabling it to detect the bad sectors that SCANDISK and CHKDSK cannot reach.

The advantage is that the disk management system can then go back to reallocating spare sectors where they are needed.

Lessen The Need For Painstaking System Restores
With RegCure: Free Download | Learn More

Optimize Your PC

In today’s world, a reliable computer system is a necessity. Don’t allow your PC to be susceptible to failures from your operating system. If you want to keep your registry clean and running smoothy, the solution is RegCure.

This product will scan, optimize, and repair your PC, and best of all, it’s very easy to use. Just click the link below and try their free system scan. Your computer will thank you for it!

www.pcaholic.com

Registry Mechanic

noreply@blogger.com (bisnis) — Mon, 16 Jun 2008 06:12:00 +0000

Number #1 Registry Cleaner for Windows. Registry Mechanic is the trusted industry leader and the world's most popular registry cleaner with more than 15 million downloads!
With Registry Mechanic you can safely clean, repair and optimize the Windows registry with a few simple mouse clicks! Problems with the Windows registry are a common cause of Windows crashes, slow performance and error messages. By using a registry cleaner regularly and fixing registry errors your system should not only be more stable but it will also help improve your system performance without expensive hardware upgrades. Learn more about the importance of a clean registry with our registry insight.
Registry Mechanic uses a high-performance detection algorithm to quickly identify missing and invalid references in your Windows registry. These problems can occur for many reasons including being left-behind after the un-installation or incorrect removal of software, by missing or corrupt hardware drivers, or orphaned startup programs.
With a few easy steps Registry Mechanic will scan your entire registry for any invalid entries and provides a list of the registry errors found, you can then choose to selectively clean each item or automatically repair them all. For your convenience and protection Registry Mechanic can also make a backup of any repairs made so that you can easily recover any changes if required.
Download Registry Mechanic

freeware-guide

Best Windows Freeware/Shareware Download Sites

noreply@blogger.com (bisnis) — Sat, 14 Jun 2008 01:45:00 +0000

Outstanding Sites

ZDNet and CNet Downloads These two sites are just different faces of the same site. That site, however, offers the biggest collection of software on the web. Finding what you want is easy, because they have the best file search engine of them all. The user comments are useful but, beware, they are often stacked by comments made by the product developers pretending to be mere users.

MajorGeeks This site carries only tech tools and utilities and there's not a lot of guidance to help you select wisely. However, if you are looking for tech tools this is THE place to go. One of my favorites.

No-Nags One of the best freeware-download site on the web though they will try to up-sell you to their premium service. The shareware side is slowly being added and is not yet as impressive.

SnapFiles / WebAttack Offers a huge collection, great organization and a refreshingly clean presentation. A drawback is its somewhat unhelpful file-search facility.

FileForum-Betanews Not the largest download collection, but if you're looking for the very latest products you'll find them here long before other download sites.

Highly Recommended Sites
SoftPedia A large commercial site with a good collection of user reviews, but it's marred by lots of ads and general screen clutter.

Tucows Huge collection with world-wide mirrors for fast downloading. The Classic "cow ratings" for products are as reliable as ever. This once class-leading site has lost its way a little in recent times.

ServerFiles.com This is the old 32bit.com site re-launched as a site specializing in server software for network administrators and IT professionals. Quite a few products have ratings, some with full reviews. It's a unique offering and highly recommended if you fit the target market.

5 Star Shareware This quality UK site claims to feature only the best products in each category. And it does...almost.

VoodooFiles A specialist download site for gaming, multi-media and performance tweaking. Lots of quality reviews.

topshareware.com A good general interest download site that's competent

Aimersoft.com Strive to provide the best iPod Software, DVD Ripper, Video Converter and iPhone/iPod/PSP/Zune/MP4 Converter on Windows and Mac OS X.

Other Sites

Shareware Junkies Every product here is independently reviewed, though many of the reviews are becoming dated. Can be helpful when you are trying to decide what you need.

Allen's WinApps List A fast and well organized site with a huge selection of software, but the search engine is woeful and there is little in the way of guidance as well.

WinPlanet
The aging remnant of the once excellent Stroud's CWS Apps site, it's now part of the Internet.com mega-site. It's still a useful site with many product ratings and some reviews. Overall, though, it is but a pale shadow of its former self.

Pass The Shareware A limited and somewhat aging collection but refreshingly free of advertising.

TECHSUPPORTALERT.COM

How To Edit The Send To Menu In Windows

noreply@blogger.com (bisnis) — Fri, 13 Jun 2008 02:13:00 +0000

Edit The Send To Menu

The Send To Menu is a handy tool for sure, but sometimes it does get filled with unnecessary extra software programs. You’ll find the Send To Menu by right clicking on a file and you can use this option to send files to your A: (to copy onto a disk), or email the file, etc.

Here’s how you can clean out that menu:

Open Windows Explorer (right click on the Start button on your bottom taskbar and click Explore)
Find the Windows folder
Select Send To folder
Delete items you no longer want or drag and drop items into this folder that you want added

Note: You may not find the Send To folder within your Windows folder. If this is the case, the folder is hidden. While you’re in Windows Explorer, click ‘Tools’ on the top menu, click Folder Options, click the View tab, and click ‘Show Hidden Files and Folders’ button. Click ‘Apply’ then ‘OK’. You should now see the Send To folder with your Windows folder.

That’s all you need to do to add or remove items to your Send To menu. Simple!

www.handy-sites.com

owards Better Storage Utilization

noreply@blogger.com (bisnis) — Thu, 12 Jun 2008 06:09:00 +0000

Managing storage resources has never been more challenging or critical. According to analysts, storage is growing at an estimated 50 - 60 percent annually even as storage utilization rates remain at an alarmingly low 30 - 40 percent. At the same time, storage resources are often spread across multiple geographic sites as well as virtual environments, making end-to-end visibility difficult.

Of course, such issues would be far less worrisome if storage budgets expanded in parallel with new storage demands so organizations could simply buy more hardware and hire more personnel to manage it. Instead, while storage typically represents a quarter of total IT budget, that 25 percent is increasingly being used to address escalating costs associated with data center space, power and cooling, and the like.

That’s not all. Organizations also face a range of operational hurdles as they often use disparate systems and tools, people-intensive processes, and reactive rather than proactive strategies in their efforts to address storage challenges—all while operating in team silos and struggling with misaligned service levels.

With budgets remaining flat, data requirements increasing, and a continuing shortage of skilled individuals to manage storage infrastructures, the need for better storage resource management has become a business priority.

The good news is that by adopting a more software-centric service management framework, organizations can manage their vast storage resources while controlling the associated costs now and in the future.

In this article we will discuss in detail four steps towards efficient storage utilization.

Know the Environment
Managing the storage environment is virtually impossible without end-to-end visibility, of the physical and virtual elements in the environment. Organizations must be able to see all of their storage assets (both physical and virtual), from array to fabric to, host assets. This visibility should include volume managers, file systems, databases, and applications. End-to-end visibility not only ensures the performance of the data path, but it also provides critical information for storage reclamation.

Having a single view of the storage stack, from application to spindle, enables organizations to understand application dependencies on infrastructure elements and see changes in near real time. Potential bottlenecks or failure points can be identified, and array-level events that might impact applications can be pinpointed.

Drive up Utilization
Once IT has an understanding of the storage environment, the organization can then begin to focus on increasing storage utilization rates. Organizations should view storage utilization as the percent of actual capacity consumed by applications to total storage capacity in the infrastructure. Measuring storage utilization effectively should be from the application perspective and not limited to a storage subsystem centric view. Unfortunately, many organizations cannot make informed decisions about storage budget expenditures simply because they do not fully understand how storage assets are being used by business applications.

To determine how much storage is currently available, identify any additional storage requirements, and ultimately maximize their storage assets, organizations must have visibility into current and historical disk usage. They must be able to see and measure available resources and storage burn (or consumption) rates in order to provide accurate forecasts for capacity planning and budgeting and avoid unnecessary storage purchases that might reduce storage utilization levels.

Improve Storage Operations
Storage administrators struggle to ensure uptime and maintain service levels in a storage environment that is constantly expanding, changing and becoming more complex. Yet, one of the most effective strategies for addressing this challenge is simple: Stop reinventing the wheel.

For years, IT organizations have used enterprise software to automate business operations such as production, distribution, and customer care—and with tremendous results in improved quality and responsiveness. Yet, these same organizations continue to use scripts and cumbersome monitoring-centric solutions to manage their IT storage operations.

A more efficient and effective solution is to adopt an iterative, process-oriented approach to automation across the storage supply chain. This approach enables organizations to standardize their storage management processes, implement consistent operational policies, and automate them. Furthermore, unlike monitoring-centric management tools, process automation offers a range of development options to enable organizations to adjust as requirements evolve. As a result, IT can quickly adapt to change and continuously improve their storage management processes.

Deliver Storage as a Service
Integrating storage with the business requires a global view of the storage infrastructure, with analysis at the enterprise level and capacity and cost correlated to business groupings. It also requires insight that can help translate storage operational metrics into business terms and measure infrastructure against business risk and efficiency.

When combined with global business-level reporting capabilities, this data can be used to recognize storage trends across multiple data centers and enable IT to determine storage utilization and capacity growth for storage arrays, storage tiers, and more. In addition, armed with this information, IT can compare storage trends across geographic locations; find the application or business unit that typically consumes the most storage, and drill down to identify waste.

By mapping storage assets to the boundaries of the organization, businesses can systematically reduce risk and decrease costly inefficiencies in allocation and utilization. With an understanding of criteria such as storage tier definitions and geographic and business boundaries, IT can implement chargeback for storage services based on specific metrics.

Furthermore, providing multiple views, and in context real time business level reporting into the global infrastructure it ensures critical information can be seen by individuals with various responsibilities, from storage operations to business unit managers, the CIO, and others. This not only promotes awareness and accountability but it also helps align IT to business objectives.

Proactive Management
As storage utilization rates remain alarmingly low and IT environments become increasingly complex and difficult to manage, many organizations remain mired in outdated manual management techniques and siloed procedures that fail to provide the visibility, business insight, and operational capabilities needed to align storage with business goals. Yet, without knowing how much storage is actually being used, where it is used, who is using it, and more, IT cannot effectively allocate storage resources.

At the same time, demands for storage continue to escalate, placing an increased burden on stressed storage budgets.

Clearly, it is critical that IT organizations gain visibility and control across its heterogeneous storage environments. They must be able to discover and visualize how applications map to the resources they consume across all elements in the data center, including virtualized environments. They must also implement prudent storage capacity management practices by reclaiming lost or wasted storage, forecast for current and future requirements, and enable tiered storage to match data to the appropriate storage device according to business requirements.
In addition, monitoring and reporting on changes in the storage environment has become a business imperative, and organizations must be able to implement service levels and chargeback for storage services rendered to the business.

With these capabilities in place, IT organizations will be able to deliver storage as a service and take a more proactive, integrated approach to storage resource management, even in an increasingly challenging and complex environment.

source here

Make Gmail Better Using GreaseMonkey

noreply@blogger.com (bisnis) — Thu, 12 Jun 2008 04:54:00 +0000

Web-based email is the future and it is now. We live in a world now where access to email from wherever you are is pretty important. Putting your email in the cloud (the Internet) is the best way to do that.

I am a big fan of Gmail. Rich bailed on Gmail because he thought they lost one of his emails. He is now using Hotmail. But, Gmail continues to rule the roost and I think it is a great email client and service.

But, Gmail is not without some annoyances. Some of those annoyances are big and would need to be solved by Gmail themselves (such as the addition of a to-do list). Others are small but can be “fixed” using Greasemonkey.

For those unaware, GreaseMonkey is a Firefox extension that allows you to run scripts in the browser and customize the way webpages look and work. Duncan Riley recently posted some quick GreaseMonkey scripts, for example, that will add tabs to your FriendFeed page and allow you to access other sites like Google Reader, Facebook, etc. These tabs are not part of FriendFeed otherwise. I am using Duncan’s scripts and they work well.

To improve Gmail, one of the big GreaseMonkey scripts to check out is Better Gmail 2. This script does a bunch at once. Once installed, you can access it’s options in the Firefox Tools menu. The script can do things like the following:

Gmail skins
Put the number of unread messages first in the tab title
Hide the number of spam messages
Hide the invite box
Put icons next to messages with attachments to indicate the type of attachment
Macros
Intercept mailto: links and open with Gmail
Show CC and BCC fields
Allowing HTML signatures
Folders4Gmail (allow you to organize labels into a hierarchical structure)
Others

The above screenshot is using the “Redesigned” skin that comes with Better Gmail. As any Gmail user will clearly see, this is nothing like the original Gmail interface.

Now, this GreaseMonkey script is a “kitchen sink” approach, giving you a lot of various functionality all in one package. But, there are some others out there you might want to check out:

Multiple Account Login: Replaces the “Sign Out” link at the top of Email with a dropdown which will allow you to easily switch between multiple Gmail accounts
Label Hider. Allows you to selectively hide certain labels from the web interface
FB Gmail. Get Facebook notifications in your Gmail.
Fixed Navigation. Will make the left sidebar fixed as you scroll.

So, your first step is to install GreaseMonkey and give some stuff a try. If you don’t like anything, just remove it. These are all just add-ons and can easily be removed.

source : pcmechanic

STEP 15 : Install The Video Card

noreply@blogger.com (bisnis) — Wed, 27 Feb 2008 01:27:00 +0000

You must have a video card installed in order to complete this tutorial so that you can see the output from your new PC once you turn it on. Installing a video card (or any expansion card for that matter) is incredibly straight-forward and easy.

Find an expansion slot ideal for your video card. You can consult the bottom right image for a look at the three types of video card slot types: ISA, PCI or AGP. Most video cards in use today are using the AGP slot, which uses the topmost slot (usually brown) on your motherboard. Other cards use the PCI bus, which most motherboards have several of and the slots are usually white. The very old video cards use the larger ISA bus, but it is unlikely you will be using this type of video card unless you are building a PC out of incredibly outdated hardware.
Remove the case insert that corresponds to the slot on the motherboard. This is usually done by unscrewing, but some cases have punch out inserts. If unclear, what we are referring to by “insert” is the small plate which covers up the rear slots on your case which your expansion cards will emerge from.
Insert the video card in the slot. You might need to rock the card in, inserting one end first, then rocking the rest of the pins into place. The old ISA cards may be tougher because of their length. You might not be able to rock them. Most of you, though, will not be dealing with ISA video cards anymore. When pushing down, make sure the motherboard does not flex. If the board tends to bend, it may be necessary to place one hand underneath the board to hold it up. Also, in some cases, you may have a problem with the leading edge of the video card’s metal plate hitting the case behind the motherboard. The result is that it keeps you from being able to push the card in all the way. I’ve tried all sorts of weird crap to fix this problem, including taking pliers to the card and actually bending it. Sometimes, you can grab a flat-head screwdriver and pry the hole wider that the card’s lip protrudes into. But, in most cases, just playing with it for a bit will do the trick. It might also be worth noting here that AGP video cards are typically installed “upside down”, meaning the circuitry side of the video card will face down. ISA and PCI cards are usually installed “right side up”.
With the video card inserted into the correct slot, it will probably sit there with no support at all. It is still, though, necessary to tighten it in using a screw. The card’s metal plate will have a notch for a screw and it will line up with a screwhole on the side of the expansion hole on the rear of the case. Just insert a screw into that hole and tighten it.
Double-check your work. Make sure the card is securely in place and, if your video card has a cooling fan on it, make sure no ribbon cables or power leads are getting into the fan blades.

STEP 14 : Install the CD-ROM(s)

noreply@blogger.com (bisnis) — Mon, 25 Feb 2008 06:15:00 +0000

Whether you are installing a CD-ROM, a DVD-ROM, a CD-R/RW, or even a DVD-R/RW, each of these drives install the same way. The installation is quite simple.

Choose which drive bay you wish to install the drive in.
If you have not yet removed the drive bay cover, do so now. This is usually done by pushing two tabs together and pushing the plate out from the front of the case. As I mentioned in the case preparation step, if you have a metal plate covering this bay that has not been removed, you will need to pry it out before you can install the drive. When you are done, the drive bay should be open from the front of the case.
If your case makes use of drive rails to hold the drive into place (the case we are using does use such rails), then fasten these drive rails to the sides of the CD drive. In order to determine which set of holes is the one to use, it may be necessary to temporarily slide the drive into the drive bay. However you decide to do it, the drive rails should be positioned such that when the drive is put into place in the case, it will be flush with the front of the case rather than being recessed or sticking out.
Slide the drive into position. Most of the time this is done from the front. If you installed drive rails in step 3, then make sure those rails are lined up with the drive rack as you push the drive in. Then push the drive all the way in until the clips on the drive rails snap into place. At that point, you can skip the next step and move to step 7.
If you are not using drive rails, then you will simply have the drive in place, but not fastened down inside the case. At this time, screw the drive into place. You might want to just place the screws in but not tighten them. This is done so that you can slide the drive out again later. When installing the cables later, you may need to slide the drive out a few inches so that you have enough room to work behind the drive. In many cases, especially mini-towers, one can have a hard time working behind the CD-ROM because it is pinned up against the front of the power supply. Sometimes it is helpful to put the case on its side as you tighten the drive into place.
When tightened into place, make sure the front of the drive is flush with the front of the case. If the front bezel is off the case on installation, make sure you don’t make the mistake of making the drive flush with the case frame. It needs to stick out a little so it will be flush with the bezel when you re-attach it. Also make sure it appears straight. While this doesn’t really affect functionality, it’s a matter of aesthetics. If the drive is in too far or sticking out too far, go ahead and re-adjust it now.
Attach the power supply to the drive. Just like a hard drive, just find a free 4-wire power plug and plug it into the power connector on the CD-ROM.
Attach the ribbon cable. Connect one of the two available plugs on the ribbon cable to the CD drive. Just choose the plug which can reach the drive best. If you have two CD drives, use the plug on the end of the ribbon cable for the top most drive, and the middle plug for the next lowest CD drive. Attach the plug on the far end of the ribbon cable to the secondary IDE port on the motherboard (usually labeled IDE2). Just like connecting any other drive, you must ensure that Pin 1 on the connector is lined up with the red edge of the cable. Pin 1 is usually marked in some way on the drive and on the motherboard both. Sometimes, it is just a small mark on one corner of the cable connection port, and that indicates that that corner pin is your pin 1.
Attach the Audio Cable. This small 3-wire connector goes from an “Audio” plug on the back of the CD-ROM to a 3-pin plug on the sound card. If you happen to have on-board audio circuitry on your motherboard, the CD-IN plug will be on your motherboard and you can connect this now. Since you likely do not have a sound card installed at this point, you can connect one end of this cable now to the CD drive and leave the other end free to connect once the sound card is installed. Some CD drives have both an analog and a digital audio out. Most of the time, people just use the standard analog audio, but if you wish, go ahead and use the digital. Your drive should come with audio cables for both options.

STEP 13 : Install Drive

noreply@blogger.com (bisnis) — Sat, 23 Feb 2008 03:59:00 +0000

Before simply following the directions below on mounting the hard drive, pay attention to where you put it. Technically, you can put the hard drive in any free bay of your case, but there are a few considerations:

Hard drives generate heat, especially the drives with the higher rotation speeds. Therefore, it is best to place these drives as far from other hardware as possible. Give them room to breathe.
If it is necessary to install a drive cooler, make sure you have room for it.
Some cases give room under the power supply to install a hard drive. Bad idea. A power supply is like a magnet, and magnets and your data do not go together. Don’t install a hard drive anywhere near the power supply. Keep your hard drive near the front of the case.

Okay, lets install the actual drive:

Determine which drive bay to install the hard drive into. In most cases, the hard drive usually goes into a 3.5″ slot toward the front of the case, near the bottom. These bays do not have a corresponding opening to the front of the case simply because there is no reason to see the hard drive from the front. Some cases use a removable drive rack to hold the hard drive. If your case uses this type of setup, remove the rack now.
Slide in the hard drive. If you are using a removable drive rack, just push the drive into the rack so that the screw holes line up. If your case has the drive rack as part of the chassis, then just lift the drive into the case and line up the screw holes on the drive with the drive rack. Be sure the drive connectors face toward the back of the case.
Fasten the hard drive into place using your screws. This is easy to do on removable racks. In non-removable racks, tightening down screws on the far side of the hard drive can be a problem, because the screws are not highly visible and thus it is hard to get to them with a screwdriver. It can take a little creativity to get at them. Most cases which have this problem have little holes where you can stick the screwdriver through and tighten the screw beneath. If the screw is not in there, I’ve even had to do a controlled drop of the screw onto the hole and then use the screwdriver to position it into the hole. It can be a real feat to do it sometimes, and this is one reason some manufacturers went to the removable racks. If you have a magnetic screwdriver that can hold the screw, this might be less of a problem for you.
If using a removable drive rack, you can now install the rack back into your case. Some racks are fastened into place using a simple thumb lever. Others need to be screwed in.
If you have any other hard drives which you are installing as you build your PC, then repeat the 4 steps above for the other drive.
Attach the power cable. Choose an unused power lead from the power supply and plug it into the power plug on the hard drive. The plug will be keyed so that it will only go in the correct way. SATA power connectors are thin and black; they are obviously different from other white Molexes.
Attach the ribbon cable to the hard drive. The ribbon cable goes from the primary IDE controller of the motherboard to the drive, usually labeled IDE1. Make sure the red edge of the ribbon cable is aligned with Pin 1 on the drive ribbon connector. If you can’t see Pin 1 marked, then it is almost always the pin closest to the power connector. If you place the cable on backwards, you may get strange errors that make your new drive sound like it has died already. As for the cable itself, usually you have two plugs closer together on one end of the cable and then a third plug on the far end of the cable. The far plug plugs into the motherboard. Of the two remaining cables, there are no requirements as to which plug to use on which hard drive. If you are only installing one hard drive, just use whichever one of those plugs reaches the drive best without stretching the ribbon cable out. If you are installing two hard drives, then plan it out so that you can use both connectors in whichever order works best. With SATA the ribbon cable goes to an SATA controller. Start with SATA_1 and move on if you have multiple drives.

SCSI Drives

If you are opting for a SCSI drive setup, then there are a few minor variations from the procedure above. First, you need to install a SCSI controller into one of your expansion slots (unless your motherboard has an integrated SCSI controller). Then proceed:

You need to set any switches or jumpers that need setting on the new drive. In SCSI setups, each device gets its own SCSI ID, numbered 1-7. #7 is usually given to the adapter card. You may pick, then, any other unused address. You may need to take into account any little quirks in your adapter, such as special likings to other addresses that could cause problems a little later. You’ll need the manual for this one.
Check for the correct termination. In SCSI setups, the adapter can hold up to seven SCSI devices. These devices are hooked up in a chain, usually with the adapter at one end and another device at the other end. This ending device must be set to be the terminating device, therefore ending the SCSI chain and making a complete electric circuit. In some cases, the adapter is in the middle of the chain, therefore you must terminate at both ends of the chain. You may need to consult the manual for any special termination techniques particular to your brand of drive. In general, a certain jumper setting will enable internal termination on the drive itself, eliminating the need for a special terminating plug.
The procedure for actual installation is the same as the procedure above for IDE drives.

STEP 12 : Configure the Hard Drive & CD-ROM

noreply@blogger.com (bisnis) — Thu, 21 Feb 2008 03:55:00 +0000

Before physically installing your hard drive or CD-ROM, it is easier to configure them outside of the case. Configuring them involves changing jumpers, and doing this within the confines of the case can be quite difficult sometimes.

How to configure these drives depends on how many drives you intend to install and of what type.

Your motherboard has two built-in IDE channels, each supporting two devices. If two devices are on one channel, one must be the “master” and the other the “slave”. Usually, your primary hard drive (the one which contains the operating system) is the master and the other drive is the slave. If you only intend to install one hard drive and having nothing else on that IDE channel, then you can select the “cable select” setting for the drive, which tells the drive it is alone on the channel.

You can attach any IDE device onto your IDE channels in any order. But, it is recommend you use IDE1 for your hard drives and IDE2 for your CD drives. It is always best to keep the CD drives on a separate channel from the hard drives.

Configuring these drives is very easy. Often the jumper settings are printed on the top of the drive itself. On CD drives, the settings are described right above the jumper pins. On hard drives, the information is printed on the top of the hard drive, if it is printed at all. If not, then consult the manual for it or go online to try finding the specs. The manuals will also outline any special jumper settings such as use of the limiter jumper on Maxtor hard drives.

If a particular drive does not need to be jumpered at all, it is best to hang the jumper over one pin. This is the same as being unjumpered, but makes sure the jumper is there for future use if needed.

If you are using SATA Hard drives, you are in luck. Because each SATA drive uses its own channel, there is no need for jumpers or worrying about master/slave relationships.

http://www.pcmech.com/byopc/step-12-configure-the-hard-drive-cd-rom/

STEP 11: Install Floppy Drive

noreply@blogger.com (bisnis) — Tue, 19 Feb 2008 02:42:00 +0000

Choose which drive bay you want to install the drive to and remove the face plate off of that bay. Save the face plate for future use. Pick a bay that will fit the drive. If you have to install a 3.5″ drive in a 5.25″ bay, you’ll have to use a special front panel to adapt it. This panel sometimes comes with a new floppy drive when you buy it.
Now, slide the drive into the bay from the front. Make sure the front of the drive is flush with the front of the PC. Also make sure the screw holes on the drive align with the screw holes on the drive mounting rack.
If your particular case has a removable drive rack (as does the one we are using for this tutorial), then you may need to remove the rack from the system to secure the drive. But, in using removable racks, you need to pay attention to which set of screw holes to use on the rack which will result in the drive face being flush with the front of the PC. In some cases, it is still easier to install the drive from the front and make it flush just to see which screwholes to use. Then you can remove the drive rack, making note of which holes to use.
Secure the floppy drive. Using your screwdriver and screws, secure the drive to the drive rack. For removable racks, you can do this separate from the case. If the rack is part of the chassis itself, then sometimes it is easier to turn the case on its side to secure the drive so that you are not fighting gravity as you try to get the screws into the holes.
OPTIONAL: If you are installing a 3.5″ drive into a 5.25″ drive bay, you will need to use a rack system which will bridge the gap between the drive and the chassis. These racks are simply metal rails which are secured to the drive by screws. These effectively make the 3.5″ drive as wide as a 5.25″ drive. Then you can install and secure the drive as normal.
Connect the power supply to the floppy drive. On the 3.5″ drives, the plug is very small…the smallest coming out of the power supply. On the larger 5.25″ drives, the connector is a large 4-wire connector, just like the hard drive power connectors. These are a little harder to plug in, and may take some rocking. The mini-plugs are much easier to plug into the 3.5″ drives. It is designed so that it is obvious which way to attach it.
Attach the Ribbon Cable. Floppy cables have a twist in the cable. The “A:” drive goes AFTER the twist. If you have a second “B:” drive, this goes before the twist. You do not need to mess with master/slave jumpers. If you choose not to mess with the twist, you can, with later BIOS versions, swap the order of the drives in the BIOS. 3.5″ drives use a set of pins for the connection to the ribbon cable. 5.25″ drives use a card-edge connector, just like the typical edge of an expansion card. You need to use a cable with the proper connectors for each type you use. Many floppy cables come with connectors for each type on each side of the twist. Always check Pin 1 on the ribbon cable connector. The red edge of the cable is aligned to Pin 1 on the connector of the drive. If you accidentally reverse this, your drive won’t be damaged, it just won’t work, and the floppy drive light will stay on all the time until fixed. The connector on the far end of the ribbon cable connects to the floppy controller on the motherboard or I/O card (usually labeled FDD). Consult your motherboard’s manual to determine which is your floppy controller.

If you are installing any other 3.5″ drives (such as a ZIP drive), then you can install those the exact same way.

STEP 10 : Connect Motherboard To Case

noreply@blogger.com (bisnis) — Mon, 18 Feb 2008 03:48:00 +0000

Now it is time to begin connecting your newly installed motherboard to the various wires of your case as well as it’s power source.

NOTE: If you have been working on a removed motherboard mounting plate, you will need to install the plate back into the case in order to be able to make the connections below.

Connect the power to the motherboard. On an ATX board, the power connector is one large 20 or 24 wire plug. It is keyed for correct installation. Just plug it in. The board may also require a square, 4pin +12v plug and even a spare 4pin Molex or two. Check your manual to make sure the board is fully powered.
Connect the CPU fan to the power. Many CPU fans connect to one of the power supply leads. They often, then, provide a pass-through so that you have a connector free for a drive, thereby placing the CPU fan on the circuit to a particular drive. Others have a little 3-pin lead that connects to a small connector on the motherboard itself. Just plug it into the motherboard. The connector is usually labeled CPU_FAN 1, or something to that effect. If your cooling fan uses the 3-pin type and you are following this tutorial to the letter, then this is likely already done.
Study the case connectors on the motherboard and match them up with case connector wires. The connectors are usually a big block of pins located in the lower section of the board. Some boards label the pins, but it is best to have your manual since it can sometimes be difficult to determine which label goes to which set of pins. If you have a good case, each connector will be labeled to tell you what case feature it leads to. If this isn’t the case, you may have to physically trace the wires back to see what feature it goes to. When connecting, consult the manual for pin 1’s, to make sure each connector is plugged in the right way. Remember, if the particular case feature is not working later, you may only have to turn the connector around on the motherboard. The next steps will walk you through connecting each wire.
Connect the power switch - On ATX machines, the power switch is connected to the motherboard instead of the power supply itself. Consult your manual. The connector is usually labeled PWR_SW, or maybe just PWR, but you must make this connection. Doing this wrong could cause your system not to start later.
Connect the reset switch. It can be plugged in any way, just make sure you connect it to the right pins. The pins may be labeled RST or RESET, but it is best to also consult the manual.
Connect Power LED/ Keylock Switch. Many system cases put these two devices on one 5-pin plug, but if you case does not have a keylock, it will be alone. The motherboard will probably be labeled accordingly. Just plug in the plug. If your system has separate plugs for each, connect them separately.
Connect the hard drive activity LED. Some come on a 2-pin plug. Others come on a four-pin plug, sometimes only two of the pins actually doing anything. Consult your manual, or play with it until it works. It is usually labeled HDD, HDD_LED, or something like that. If this is attached wrongly, the light may either never come on later or will stay on all the time when the PC is running.
Connect the PC speaker. Most cases put this onto a 4-wire plug. Just plug it in to the 4 pins on the motherboard. Other cases put the speaker connector on two 1-wire plugs. In this case, plug them into pins 1 and 4. I never could figure out why they did that…
Double-Check your work, as always. Note that if an LED does not light up, its case connector needs to be flipped 180 degrees.

STEP 9 : Install the Motherboard

noreply@blogger.com (bisnis) — Thu, 14 Feb 2008 02:15:00 +0000

Now you need to install the motherboard into the case. If you’re following this tutorial, the CPU, fan and memory will already be installed onto the motherboard, so you will be installing this whole setup into the case now.

Turn your PC case onto its side and move all the power leads from the power supply out of the way so that you have clear access to the motherboard plate. If you are using a case in which the motherboard mounting plate can be removed, you may wish to remove it now and install the motherboard outside of the case itself.
Locate the holes on the motherboard and the holes on the case or motherboard mounting plate. You might want to hold the board just above the case motherboard plate and see which holes on the case line up with holes on the motherboard. All motherboards have mounting holes in different places.
Now gather your standoffs. Screw them into the holes in the case or mounting plate that line up with holes on the motherboard. You can tighten them with a 3/16″ nut driver or by hand. Some cases have small spacers that snap into place. With these, you push them through the mounting plate from the back side and they will snap into place.
For the holes on the motherboard that line up with an eyelet hole on the case (a hole that is very long so that you can slide things in it), install a plastic stand-off on the motherboard. The stand-offs should poke through the motherboard and expand to keep them in place. The little disk on the other end of the stand-off will later be used to slide into the eyelet holes. If your case does not provide eyelet holes, do not worry about this step. Most cases use only the metal standoff screws to hold the motherboard, which is a hell of a lot easier than the slide-in variety.
Take the motherboard by its edges and hold it over the case. Align it so that it is properly aligned with the rear connectors facing backward, etc.
Lower the motherboard into the case. Sit it on top of the standoffs you just installed so that each standoff lines up with a screwhole on the motherboard. If you happen to be using any of the slide-in standoffs, you will need to slide these into their eyelet holes as you lower the board into the case.
Inspect the screws you will use to tighten the board down. If the head of the screws are too wide, and you think they might contact any circuitry on the motherboard, place a plastic washer over each hole. I’ve had some ATX boards refuse to start up later because they were grounded somewhere to the case, probably by a screw.
Tighten the board down. Install the screws into each of the standoffs underneath, through the board and the washers if you used them. Tighten them down by hand first, then finish them with a screwdriver. Make sure you do not tighten them too much. You don’t want to crack your board. Just make them snug so that the board doesn’t wiggle around in the case. It may be necessary to adjust the position of the board somewhat in order to get the holes aligned enough with the standoffs to tighten down the screws.
If you were installing the board to a removable mounting plate, install the motherboard mounting plate back into the case. On some cases, the plate is installed from the side. On these, you insert the bottom edge of the plate into a guide rail on the bottom of the case and then rotate upward. The top edge of the plate will contact the case, at which point you can screw it in or a spring loaded handle will lock it in. On other cases, the plate may slide in a different way, from the rear for example. These plates are then easily removed later if you ever need to remove the motherboard.
Double check your work. Check to be sure that the back of the motherboard is not touching any part of the case or mounting plate. Make sure the slots and connectors line up with the holes on the back of the case. And definitely be sure that the board is rigid and tight. If you press down on the board at any point, it should not bend down.

sumber :

STEP 8 : Configure the Motherboard

noreply@blogger.com (bisnis) — Wed, 13 Feb 2008 02:26:00 +0000

At this point, your have your processor, heat sink and fan and your memory installed onto your motherboard. In most cases you are now ready to install your motherboard into the case. In some cases, however, it is necessary to do a little configuration on your motherboard beforehand. It is easier to do this with the motherboard sitting outside of the case.

The settings that may need to be configured are:

CPU Speed
Bus Speed
CPU Voltage Setting

Most motherboards in use today make use of the CMOS settings to configure these options. In this case, you can skip this step because you will need to wait until your new PC is powered up in order to configure these options. If, though, you are using an older motherboard in which these settings are controlled via the use of jumpers, then we need to tackle this here.

Configuring a Board Which Uses Jumpers

You need to have the manual for your board available. If you do not have the manual, log on to the manufacturer’s web site and see if you can find this info there. You can also try their tech support via phone. In some cases, too, some of the jumper settings are printed onto the surface of the motherboard. If you don’t have any of this info, you are just out of luck. Unfortunately, you must have some form of documentation available simply because motherboards have so many settings to adjust. If you’re dealing with an older board, you may need to spend some time trying to identify the manufacturer so that you can see if they do support it. You can many times use the BIOS ID numbers to identify the board online.

Motherboard manuals come in two main formats. Some are friendly for hardware buffs by listing a separate jumper or DIP switch for CPU core voltage, I/O voltage, multiplier, and system bus speed. They then tell you the settings for each of these. This format is better because of the increased control. Other manuals list the settings next to a list of commonly used CPU’s, showing the common settings for each. While this format is easier for the end user for easy setup, it is tougher if you like increased control of the settings, for overclocking for example. The best manuals do both: list the jumper settings individually as well as provide a list of processors and the jumper settings for each.

When playing with the board, be careful with it. Avoid placing the board on the static bag it came in, as this can cause an electro-static shock to build up, which may very well fry the motherboard. Always place the board on a flat surface, wooden desks work best, not carpet or anything like that. And always ground yourself before handling the board. When handling the board, handle it by the edges only when at all possible.

Now, here is the basic procedure for motherboard configuration:

Read the Manual. Always. Read the listings for settings and locate all jumpers on the motherboard itself and what settings they control.
Set the voltage settings. Most older chips use one single voltage. The newer chips we use today use a split voltage. Most of these motherboards provide jumpers for the core voltage and I/O voltage. Set them to match your intended CPU. If you are using an older chip with one voltage, just set both voltages to be the same. Your best bet to choose the correct voltage is to see what is printed on the CPU itself. Most CPUs will have “core voltage” printed somewhere on it. That is your voltage. Some jumpered boards are designed to detect the voltage automatically and then use the correct voltage. In this case, you will not have to worry about it.
Set the processor speed. This is not usually done with a single jumper. It is, instead, done by setting the system bus speed and a multiplier. The multiplier is the number which when multiplied by the system bus speed gives the processor speed. There is a separate jumper for each of these settings. Configure these to match the intended CPU. If you know what you’re doing and would like to overclock the chip a tad, set these jumpers a little differently. Generally, though, I would recommend actually getting the system working before trying to overclock it. If your manual lists settings by CPU, just do what it says. You can sometimes infer from the manual which switches control voltage, multiplier, etc. Generally, if your board is jumper-controlled, you will need to consult the manual for the proper jumper arrangement, use the motherboard layout in the manual to find the jumper on the board itself, and use either your finger or tweezers to adjust the jumper to look like the diagram in your manual. When the jumpers in question look like they should in the diagrams, then you’re set. And, again, if your CPU settings are NOT jumper-controlled, you will be taking care of all this later on.

Some old boards make use of a jumper to set the cache size and type. Set this now, if need be. If you have internal cache, which most do, you won’t need to bother. Likewise, some boards give you the ability to use either AT or ATX power supplies. Depending on which type you will be using, you may need to set a jumper to tell the board what type of power to use.

If your board supports the asynchronous SDRAM clock speed, as most boards with Via chipsets do, you need to set the jumpers properly for this as well. This capability allows you to run the memory at a different clock speed than the rest of the system. This comes in handy, for example, when you want to use older memory yet run the rest of the system at the higher bus speed. You can set the system bus speed at 100MHz and then set the memory to run at 66MHz or 75MHz, for example. The instructions for properly setting this up are in your board’s manual.

If you’ve done that, most of the configuring is done. Now you want to double-check the other settings that were set by the manufacturer to make sure they are correct. Make sure the CMOS-clear jumper is set to normal so that you can change the BIOS settings later. Make sure the battery jumper is set to onboard battery instead of external battery. If you have a jumper enabling FLASH BIOS, make sure this is disabled. Also, check to see if all jumpers enabling or disabling onboard controllers are set correctly. All these settings are usually set correctly by default, but you need to make sure. Keep in mind that many boards control these feature via their CMOS and you will be setting them after the PC is up and running, not now with jumpers.

Double-Check all of your own work. Better safe than sorry.

STEP 7 : Install Memory

noreply@blogger.com (bisnis) — Tue, 12 Feb 2008 09:19:00 +0000

You should now install your memory modules. For the purposes of this step, we are assuming that you have already chosen the appropriate memory for your PC in Step 1. So, we will jump right into installing the memory.

It is important that you consult the manual for your motherboard to see about any particular sequences in which memory should be installed on your board. Some boards require particular sequences of memory installation, usually depending on the memory capacity, type, etc. Other boards have no required sequence at all, and you can choose any slot you wish to install your memory. Most new boards support Dual Channel RAM. This is a technology that allows a performance increase when using 2 or 4 matched sticks of RAM. Consult your motherboard manual on which slots to use for dual-channel. It is not always slots 1 & 2.

The installation of module modules is basically the same regardless of type, even though each module type looks a little different.

Ground yourself by touching an unpainted metal object. This will discharge any built up static electricity in your body.
Pick up the memory module by its edges.
Decide which slots you are going to use and orient the memory module over it. The module slot will have a small plastic bridge which will be off-center in the socket. This matches up with a notch in the pin array of the memory module itself and ensures that you insert the module in the proper alignment.
Insert the memory module. With DIMMs (SDRAM or DDR RAM), they go straight in. Make sure the notches in the RAM line up with the little bumps in the slot.
Lock the module in place. With DIMMs and RIMMs, all you have to do is continue to press the memory module down until the ejector clips on either side of the memory slot automatically get pushed into the closed position. Sometimes, you may need to help the ejector clips close, but the idea here is that those clips need to close so as to lock the module into place. If they do not close, it is because the module is not inserted all the way into the slot.
Repeat this procedure for any other memory modules you are going to install.
If you are using DIMMs (and most are), then you are done. If you are using RIMM modules, then you need to fill each remaining RIMM slot with a continuity module. A continuity module does not contain any actual memory, but its purpose is to simply act as a pass-through circuit so as to provide for a continuous channel for the memory signal. The installation of a C-RIMM is exactly like that of a normal RIMM module.

STEP 6 : Install Heat Sink/Fan

noreply@blogger.com (bisnis) — Mon, 11 Feb 2008 02:19:00 +0000

Today’s processors are running quite hot. Advancements are being made to make them run cooler at higher speeds, but the importance of a high quality heat sink and fan cannot be overstated. PCs that are not properly cooled can be quite unstable, or at its worse, it may not even boot properly.

It used to be that you could attach a heat sink and fan to your processor directly and not worry about it. Today, though, processors run too hot to do this and expect a reliable PC. One must use heat sink compound to seal the gap between the heat sink and the top of the processor.

Some heat sinks have a rubber heat pad on the bottom of them. In these cases, you don’t really need to use heat sink compound because the rubber pad will create the seal. It should be kept in mind, though, that if you are using a heat sink which has been used before and had a heat pad, that heat pad is now likely melted in the spot where the previous processor contacted it. In these cases, you cannot use the heat pad again as it will be ineffective. Instead, you need to clean the old rubber pad off of the heat sink using a non-abrasive cleaning compound. Many people use isopropyl alcohol and a broken old credit card to scrape the rubber off without damaging the heat sink. When the pad is removed, you can use the heat sink again using heat sink compound.

Attach the fan to the heat sink. This step is almost always already done for you, but if not, you must do it yourself. This is done using the four screws that came with the CPU fan.
Clean the top of the processor. Using a lint-free cloth and isopropyl alcohol (or some other non-abrasive cleaning solution), ensure that the surface of the processor is clean and free of dust and finger oil. Do the same to the bottom of the heat sink. Pay attention to the note above on heat pads if your heat sink had or has a rubber heat pad.
If you are using a cooling shim, place it onto the top of the processor now. Not all processors require shims. In fact, no processors require shims; they are completely optional. But, some people like to use them because they help to increase the surface area of the top of the ship and spread the weight around evenly. See, some processors (such as the Athlon XP) actually have the core sticking up slightly from the rest of the processor. So, when the heat sink is placed on top, all of its weight comes down on the core. If the fan is a real tight fit for the motherboard, it could really create a weight load on the processor core, and some people have actually crushed their CPU core by accident. A shim is simply a thin piece of metal, especially designed for a particular processor, which fits over the processor and evens out the height and helps to alleviate the crushed core problem. When installing a shim, be extra sure you are aligning it correctly. They often have holes in them exactly placed so that the cache bridges on top of the processor can poke through. If the shim is not properly aligned, you could short out these bridges and actually burn out your processor if you run your PC that way. Additionally, a mis-aligned shim could cause the heat sink to not actually have full content with the CPU core, leading to overheating.
Apply the Heat Sink Compound. Assuming you are not using a heat pad on your heat sink, apply a very thin layer of heat sink compound to the top of the processor core. If, as is the case with Pentium IV processors, the top of the processor is totally flat, then apply the compound to the entire top surface of the processor. Many heat sinks come with heat sink compound in a small little package, usually just enough for a one-time install. You can pick up better quality compound online. Arctic Silver is a very popular choice. Be careful not to get compound on any motherboard electronics. Apply only a very small portion to the processor. Only a very thin layer is required. The compound must be spread out evenly across the top of the chip, forming that very thin layer. When spreading the heat sink compound, do not use your finger. Use the edge of a credit card, or you can use a rubber glove or even just a plastic bag over your hand. Do not apply any heat sink compound if you plan to use a heat pad.
Attach The Heat Sink. Place the heat sink/fan combo squarely on top of the processor, pressing down lightly. Do not do any twisting as you install the heat sink. Press down firmly, but straight down so as to preserve the heat sink compound layer you just applied.
Secure the heat sink. Most newer heat sinks use a set of clips on each side to fasten itself down. These clips attach to a pair of tabs on each side of the socket. It will probably take a little bit of force to bend the clip down over the tab. Other heat sinks wrap around the processor, then just sit on top, the compound being the only real attachment. Pentium IV motherboards have a heat sink retention bracket around the processor socket. When you install the P4 heat sink, you will fasten each of the four retention clips into the retention bracket and then close the clip levers on top of the heat sink to fasten the heat sink down onto the Pentium IV processor.
Double-Check. No compound should have oozed out from the sides. If it did then you applied too much and need to remove the HSF, clean both the heatsink and CPU and start over.
Attach fan to power source. Unless your CPU fan is powered via a standard power supply plug, it is probably powered by a wire attached to a 3-pin power lead on the motherboard itself. You can attach this now. The CPU_FAN power lead is located near the CPU interface somewhere. The lead will have two small pins on each side, and these pins surround the power plug and the pins are inserted into the holes in the plug. It should be pretty easy and obvious.

STEP 5 : Install the CPU

noreply@blogger.com (bisnis) — Mon, 11 Feb 2008 02:18:00 +0000

The next step is to install the processor onto the motherboard. Now, at this point, the motherboard should just be sitting on your work space, preferably inside of the static protection bag in which it came. Over the next few steps, we will be installing some hardware onto the motherboard before it is installed into the case. The reason is that, in most cases, it is a LOT easier to do this with the motherboard out the case than with the motherboard in the case. The chief reason being room to maneuver your big hands.

Installing the CPU is a pretty straight-forward process. The real risk is to the CPU. Doing this step too fast or carelessly can result in damage to the processor. Therefore, don’t get nervous. It is an easy step, but do it with care.

There are several common interfaces for CPU’s today: Intel currently uses Socket T (775) and AMD uses Socket 939. The older generation of boards uses Socket 478 for Intel and Socket 754 or Socket A (462) for AMD. The numbers correspond to the number of pins on the CPU. But, they all boil down to two basic types: The Zero Insertion Force (ZIF) socket and the slot. Most processors in use today use a socket to connect to the motherboard, and the type of socket in use is typically the ZIF socket. The ZIF socket opens and closes using a small lever. When the lever is down, the CPU is locked into place. When in the upright position, the processor is loose and can either be installed or removed.

All modern systems make use of the zero-insertion force (ZIF) socket. Therefore, this procedure is relevant with that setup. To install a processor using this type of interface, follow this procedure:

Check the pins. Turn the chip over and inspect the pins. Are they bent? They should all stick straight up. If many of them are bent, then it is best to request a replacement processor. If only a couple are bent and the bend is not that much, then you may be able to use a screwdriver to gently bend the pins back into place. Do so VERY carefully.
Open ZIF Socket. This is done by grabbing the lever on one side of the socket and opening it. Pull the lever from the closed, level position, to the open, vertical position. You may need to pull the lever out a bit before it will open. Do this slowly and don’t force it. You don’t want to break the socket. On the way up, you may experience a little more force. This is normal. The top part of the ZIF socket will slide over a bit.
Orient The Chip. This involves locating Pin 1 on both the chip and the socket. This is easy to do. The chip is always marked at Pin 1. The mark may be a little dot on one corner, a slightly notched corner, or a mark at one of the pins under the chip. On the socket, there is usually a notch on one corner, or a big “1″. These corners will be matched up for correct installation.
Insert Processor. Bearing in mind the orientation determined in Step 3, insert the chip into the socket. With a ZIF socket, the chip should install very easily. It should almost fall into the socket with all pins lining up. That’s why they call it the Zero Insertion Force socket. If not, the socket is probably not open all the way. If you do not have a ZIF socket (God forbid!), you need to exercise extreme care. Lay the chip on the socket. Make sure all pins line up. Then, slowly push the chip into the socket. Use your thumb and push on one side of the chip until it starts to go in. Then proceed to another side and repeat. Do this around the chip several times until it is completely installed.
When done, there should be basically no gap between the bottom of the processor and the socket.
Close ZIF Socket. Just close the lever. You will probably feel some resistance. This is normal and it should close anyway. If you really need to lean on it, though, check to be sure the chip is installed correctly. When down, make sure the lever snaps into place.
Some retail processors come with the heat sink and fan already attached to the CPU, in which case you will need to attach the CPU fan to the socket at the same time as you close the ZIF socket. After you lock the CPU into place, take the retention clips on either side of the CPU fan (which should line up automatically for you if you inserted the processor correctly in step 4 above) and push them down until each side clips over the tabs on either side of the socket. Sometimes it takes using a screwdriver as leverage to be able to get the retention clips out and over the tabs, but if you do this be very careful not to slip and jab your motherboard with the screwdriver.