Formed in the Netherlands in 1989, The Gathering emerged from the European metal underground before developing a more expansive sound that incorporated elements of alternative rock, shoegaze, trip hop and progressive music. The band’s breakthrough came with the 1995 album Mandylion, which introduced vocalist Anneke van Giersbergen and established a style that would become highly influential within atmospheric rock. Subsequent releases such as Nighttime Birds, How to Measure a Planet? and Souvenirs demonstrated a willingness to continually evolve, moving beyond genre boundaries while maintaining a distinct musical identity built around texture, melody and emotional resonance.

The Pineapple Thief have followed a different but equally significant path. Founded in England by songwriter and guitarist Bruce Soord in 1999, the band became one of the defining names of modern progressive rock through albums that balance intricate arrangements with accessible songwriting. Releases including Your Wilderness, Dissolution and Versions of the Truth earned widespread acclaim for their combination of progressive ambition and introspective lyricism. The addition of drummer Gavin Harrison, known for his work with progressive rock giants Porcupine Tree and King Crimson, further strengthened the band’s reputation as one of the genre’s most compelling contemporary acts.

While their musical approaches differ, both groups share a commitment to sonic exploration and artistic evolution. The Gathering’s atmospheric soundscapes and genre-defying compositions complement The Pineapple Thief’s detailed musicianship and emotionally driven songwriting, highlighting how progressive music has continued to expand beyond its traditional boundaries over the past three decades.

On stage, both bands are renowned for immersive live performances that emphasize dynamics, mood and musicianship. Their concerts often transform studio material into expansive experiences, allowing audiences to engage with the subtle details and emotional weight that have made their catalogues resonate with listeners worldwide.

To stay updated follow Vera Music and Hammer Music. Tickets are available via Passo.

Levazım Mah. Koru Sok. No:2/PSM/70, 34340 Zincirlikuyu 

The lineup features Edis, Nova Norda, Can Molti, Büyük Ev Ablukada, Islandman, Emir Yargın, Selin Çıngır, Gaye Su Akyol, Lin Pesto, Mavi, and Den Ze, reflecting a broad snapshot of a music scene that continues to evolve in unexpected directions. Tickets are available via BuBilet.

Edis (June 12)
Few Turkish pop artists have shaped the past decade as significantly as Edis. Emerging with breakthrough singles such as “Benim Ol” and “Martılar,” he quickly established himself through a combination of contemporary production, strong visual identity, and confident stagecraft. His music draws from international pop trends while maintaining a distinctly local character, helping him become one of the country’s most recognizable mainstream performers.

Nova Norda (June 12)
Nova Norda has carved out a unique space between alternative pop, electronic music, and indie songwriting. Known for her witty lyricism and playful approach to genre, she has built a devoted audience through releases that balance accessibility with experimentation. Her work frequently explores themes of identity, relationships, and everyday life through an unmistakably personal lens.

Can Molti (June 12)
Producer, songwriter, and multi-instrumentalist Can Molti has become a respected figure within Turkey’s independent music community through his intimate and genre-fluid compositions. Blending elements of folk, electronic music, and contemporary singer-songwriter traditions, his work favors atmosphere and emotional honesty over conventional pop structures.

Büyük Ev Ablukada (June 13)
One of the defining acts of Turkey’s modern independent music movement, Büyük Ev Ablukada have spent years building a reputation for unconventional songwriting and creative unpredictability. Their music moves freely between indie rock, electronic experimentation, spoken word influences, and alternative pop, resulting in a catalog that resists easy classification. Their live performances remain a major part of their appeal, balancing spontaneity with a strong sense of collective energy.

Islandman (June 13)
Led by producer and musician Tolga Böyük, Islandman combines electronic production with psychedelic textures, live instrumentation, and influences drawn from Anatolia and beyond. Since emerging in the late 2010s, the project has attracted international attention for creating immersive sonic landscapes that sit comfortably between dance music and live performance.

Emir Yargın (June 13)
Emir Yargın represents a younger generation of Turkish artists working at the intersection of indie pop, alternative songwriting, and contemporary production. His music often combines introspective lyrics with melodic arrangements, resulting in songs that feel both personal and accessible. He has steadily expanded his audience through a series of releases that showcase a developing artistic identity.

Selin Çıngır (June 13)
Selin Çıngır has emerged as one of the notable new voices within the alternative pop landscape. Her work blends modern production techniques with expressive vocals and emotionally direct songwriting. As part of a growing wave of independent artists redefining contemporary Turkish pop, she continues to develop a sound that balances intimacy and ambition.

Gaye Su Akyol (June 14)
Gaye Su Akyol has become one of Turkey’s most internationally recognized contemporary musicians through her inventive fusion of Anatolian rock, psychedelia, surf music, and art-pop. Albums such as Hologram İmparatorluğu and İstikrarlı Hayal Hakikattir have earned acclaim for their ability to reinterpret musical traditions through a modern and highly individual perspective. Her performances are equally notable for their visual identity and theatrical presence.

Lin Pesto (June 14)
Lin Pesto have established themselves as one of the more exciting names within the alternative rock scene, combining sharp songwriting with contemporary indie sensibilities. Their music often balances energetic arrangements with reflective lyrical themes, creating a sound that resonates with younger audiences while maintaining broad appeal.

Mavi (June 14)
Mavi is part of a new generation of artists exploring the increasingly blurred boundaries between indie, electronic, and alternative music. With an approach that emphasizes mood and atmosphere, the project reflects the diversity and experimentation that have become defining characteristics of the contemporary independent landscape.

Den Ze (June 14)
Den Ze closes the lineup as another emerging voice contributing to the breadth of today’s alternative music scene. Drawing from a variety of contemporary influences, the project reflects the genre-fluid spirit that runs throughout the festival, offering audiences the opportunity to discover a rising artist alongside more established names.

Across three days, Long Weekend brings together mainstream stars, cult favorites, established innovators, and emerging talent under a program designed to celebrate discovery as much as familiarity. The result is a festival that mirrors the diversity of contemporary music itself, where different sounds, generations, and creative approaches meet over the course of a single extended weekend.

To stay updated, be sure to follow the official Instagram of KüçükÇiftlik Park. Tickets are available via BuBilet.

Harbiye, Kadırgalar Cd. No:4, 34367 Şişli

But there is another side to this experience that many people only start to understand with time.

Because the same family culture that can feel overwhelming in the beginning can also become one of the most comforting parts of life in Türkiye.

One thing I hear often from foreign clients living here is this: “At first, I thought they were interfering. Later, I realized they were trying to include me.”

That shift changes the way people experience everything.

Of course, there is no single Turkish family model. Family dynamics vary enormously depending on the city, social background, education, and the personalities involved. Some families are respectful and emotionally balanced. Others can still be intrusive or controlling. Culture may explain certain behaviors, but it does not excuse unhealthy ones.

Still, there are some experiences that come up again and again in conversations with foreign partners.

One of them is the feeling of never really being left alone.

In many Western cultures, caring about someone often means respecting their space. In Türkiye, care is usually more visible. More active. People call, insist, check in, show up at your door, ask questions, bring food, offer help before you even ask for it.

Sometimes this feels comforting. Sometimes it feels exhausting. Sometimes both at the same time.

I remember one client who got sick not long after moving to Istanbul. She barely knew her partner’s family then, but his mother arrived at the apartment with homemade soup, medicine, extra blankets, and enough food to last days. The client laughed while telling me this because back home, she said even close relatives would probably send a message first and ask whether visiting was okay.

Another client told me she used to dread big family breakfasts. Too many people, too much noise, too many questions, too much food being placed on her plate every five minutes. In the beginning, she experienced it almost like social pressure.

About a year later, she spoke about those same breakfasts completely differently.

“I think it’s the first time in my life I’ve understood why people like having a big family,” she told me.

That emotional transition happens more often than people think.

Because after a while, many foreign partners stop focusing only on the involvement itself and start noticing the intention behind it. The effort. The consistency. The fact that people keep showing up.

In Turkish culture, love is often expressed practically. Through food, through time, through concern, through wanting you around. Sometimes even through a level of closeness that initially feels too intense.

One client once described this dynamic to me in a way I never forgot. She said, “In my culture, if you refuse something once, people respect it. In Türkiye, if you refuse three times, they think you are finally starting the conversation.”

She was talking about food at first. The endless offers of tea, dessert, more breakfast, more dinner. The almost impossible task of leaving a Turkish home without eating something. But later she realized it was not really about the food itself. For her partner’s family, insisting was a way of showing care, generosity, and emotional warmth.

“At some point,” she told me laughing, “I stopped hearing pressure in it. I started hearing affection.”

And yes, this can still become unhealthy if there are no boundaries. Not every close family dynamic is healthy just because it comes from tradition. Some families struggle with emotional dependency, control, or guilt just like families anywhere else in the world.

But healthy closeness and emotional entanglement are not the same thing.

That difference matters.

What surprises many foreigners over time is how quickly they stop feeling like outsiders once they are genuinely accepted. You are no longer “the foreign girlfriend” or “the foreign boyfriend.” You slowly become part of the rhythm of daily life.

Someone saves you food before dinner is over. Someone asks whether you got home safely. Someone notices you are quiet before you even say anything.

These are small gestures, but for people who grew up in emotionally distant environments, they can feel unexpectedly powerful.

I have had clients tell me they started missing the noise of Turkish family life when they travelled back to their own countries. The crowded tables, the constant movement, the feeling that somebody is always around.

At first, those same things had overwhelmed them. Later, they felt strangely comforting.

There is also another layer to this that many foreign partners notice over time. In Türkiye, relationships are often approached with a stronger sense of permanence. Families may become emotionally invested very early because, in their minds, they are not only getting to know you for today. They are imagining you as part of the future.

That can create pressure, of course. But it can also create a feeling of continuity and emotional security that some people find deeply grounding.

None of this means boundaries stop mattering. A healthy relationship still needs privacy, individuality, and emotional separation from the family. Love should not require disappearing into someone else’s system.

But understanding the emotional meaning behind certain behaviors changes the experience completely.

Because sometimes what first feels like intrusion is actually closeness expressed in a language you are not used to yet.

And over time, many people stop asking, “Why are they so involved?” and start asking something else instead: “What kind of connection do I want to build in my own life?”

Somewhere between the discomfort and the belonging, many foreign partners end up discovering a version of family they did not fully understand before.

And sometimes, without expecting it, they find themselves changed by it too.

“Istanbul, babe, here I come,” I told myself on the plane from Brussels to Istanbul in July 2014. I landed at Ataturk airport quite late in the evening, tired but also excited to be in Istanbul and to be giving a lecture on EU Competition Law to European Law Students Association (ELSA) the following morning. My excitement soon turned to apprehension, though, when the airline told me that my luggage with my conference outfit was still in Brussels.

Know your rights if your luggage is delayed

If your luggage is delayed, damaged or lost, you have a right to claim compensation. Such compensation should include both pecuniary and non-pecuniary damages. Very often we forget to claim non-pecuniary compensation – mostly due to the fact that there are no set rules to calculate this amount. Thus, how successful you are in obtaining compensation for non-pecuniary damages will almost always depend on your ability to prove that the delay of your luggage has caused serious personal/moral injury/pain/suffering.

In my case, the delayed luggage was unexpected and was tremendously inconvenient for me, mostly because I was one of the main speakers at a summer law school session. Not only was I scheduled to speak in front of 65 students from all over Europe, I also had to attend a gala dinner with lawyers and officials.

Since I didn’t have the time to buy new clothes, I didn’t have any receipts or invoices to present to the airline. But I did successfully claim non-pecuniary compensation from the airline for the inconveniences and moral injury caused by the delay.

Formalities and paperwork

As soon as you learn that your luggage is running late, you should go directly to the claim office of your airline and report your problem by filling in the respective forms, which normally ask for your telephone number and an address where your luggage could be delivered to. Make sure you clarify whether the airline will deliver your bags or whether you should pick it up at the airport. Emphasize the urgency of the delivery and do not forget to express your disappointment with the service.  Following that, go home/to the hotel and wait for your luggage to arrive.

Make sure you have contacted the airline by email and claimed compensation for the delay of your luggage within 21 days of getting your bags back (and no later, as missing the deadline for filing it could invalidate your claim). In addition to stating your claims, you should attach the following documents:

• A copy of the ticket or boarding pass;
• A list indicating your expenses during the period of late delivery, along with receipts and invoices/credit card statements, if available;
• Copy of the passport or ID card;
• Your permanent address; and
• If your luggage is damaged and can be repaired, an invoice for the repair.  If the bag cannot be repaired, a document proving the price of the piece of luggage and issued by the authorized company. It’s also wise to attach photographs of the damaged part of your bag.

What happens if you don’t have any receipts to send? You should state and justify your claim amount for non-pecuniary damages, like I did. When justifying my claim for the violation of my rights as a passenger, I relied on provisions of international law, including those provisions of the Montreal Convention that relate to the destruction, loss, damage or delay to baggage.

Highlights of the Montreal Convention to remember

• Checked-in baggage is considered “lost” if it has not arrived 21 days after the date it was due to arrive;
• The airline is liable for the baggage delay, unless it took all reasonable measures to avoid the delay or it was impossible to take such measures due to force major;
• Compensation for the delay, damage or loss of luggage should be approx. 1,920 Euros or at least no less than 20 Euros per kg. Hence, in case your luggage is 20 kg, you are entitled to compensation of at least 400 Euros; and
• If the airline does not agree with your claim, you can always take them to court. Any action in court to claim damages must be brought within 2 years from the date of arrival of the aircraft, or from the date on which the aircraft ought to have arrived.

Almost, but not quite there yet

Following the assessment of your claim, the airline should get back to you within a reasonable time with an official letter/decision and if you agree with it, you should sign it, provide your bank account details and send back by post.

One of the things that complicates the whole process of actually getting the money is the fact that you will most likely have to provide a Turkish Lira bank account (which, by the way, you can open only if you have a valid residence permit). Otherwise, you can provide the bank account of a Turkish friend or relative, but their authority to do so has to be approved at the notary (which means additional expenses in terms of time and money. Bear this in mind when determining your compensation amount).

Final remarks

Hopefully your luggage will never get lost or delayed. But even if it does, never panic and always remember to fight for your passenger rights! As only by doing so will we have a chance to improve the service and avoid spoilt vacations or business trips in the future.

Editor’s Note: This article was first published in 2014.

Is buying the right decision for you?

One way to answer this question is to compare it with renting. Renting gives you more flexibility since you can move more or less as you like, but money that goes to rent isn’t saved. Buying a home can make moving much more difficult, but you are purchasing something of value that you can later sell. One way to compare would be to look at the difference in monthly cost. If the cost of owning is similar to renting, it might make more sense to buy and own something for yourself.

Several sites like hepsiemlak and Sahibinden.com offer tools (Emlak Endeksi) that let us compare prices quite easily. According to hepsiemlak, the average rent for a 100m² apartment in Istanbul for September 2017 was about 25,000 lira. There is no good data on the average accompanying monthly building fee (aidat), so let’s round that up to 27,000. The average price to purchase an apartment of the same size was 4,500,000 lira. Ignoring other considerations, buying the house would save over 14 years’ worth of rental payments. However, since most of us probably don’t have that much spare cash lying around, it would make more sense to compare with mortgage payments.

As we know from Part 1 of this series, the most we can borrow on a mortgage is 50%, which gives us 2,250,000. A quick peek at HangiKredi.com, a useful site for comparing bank mortgage offers, tells that for 16/05/2026 the monthly payments for a 10-year mortgage would be almost 63,000 lira. Wow! So, ignoring other considerations for the moment, we can say that buying a home in Istanbul is probably more than twice as expensive as renting. This basic dynamic also holds true for Ankara and Izmir.

So for those of us who would need a mortgage, the real question becomes: is doubling your monthly payments (for the same class of home) worth the security of owning something for yourself in the future? If not, would you be comfortable in a lesser (e.g. smaller) home with more similar payments? Or perhaps you have the option of moving to a less expensive city or neighbourhood?

When should you buy?

Deciding when to buy property obviously depends a lot on your personal financial situation (if you aren’t in a position to buy a home outright, you’ll be interested in Part 4 of this series: Getting a mortgage), as well as your long-term plans (i.e. have you decided to stay here for more than a few years?). However, you should also consider the state of housing market at the time you decide to buy. Just like other goods (think about things you buy at the supermarket), housing prices go through a cycle over time; sometimes higher than other prices, and sometimes lower (see more here).

If you are planning to buy for the long-term, then buying when property is expensive may not affect you much, but if there is a possibility that you will need to sell your property 2, 5 or 10 years in the future, you may find that it is worth less than what you purchased it for at the time, because the market has moved into a selling phase.

On the other hand, property prices have risen along with everything else in Turkey since 2010 (more so in the big cities), the earliest date for which reliable data is available.. Since property cycles can last up to 18 years, you may end up waiting quite a while before prices come down, and then the amount you spend while waiting (on rent, etc.) may be more than you eventually save on the lower property price.

The last thing to consider here are interest rates. These are what determine your monthly mortgage payments, and follow the rate set by the federal government. When the economy is strong and growing, rates tend to get higher, making mortgages more expensive. Conversely, when the economy is weak or declining rates will usually go down, to encourage more people to buy homes.

Where should you buy?

Most of us probably want to live close to school, work, or in one of the well-known trendy parts of town, but it’s worth looking at all the options before making a final decision. Since this series is focused on the financial aspects of buying a home, let’s look at it from that perspective. Aside from size and age, location is one of the largest determinants of the cost of a home.

In a city like Istanbul, where traffic is always a concern, the cost of property rises the closer you get to major transit hubs (e.g. usually metro stations). If you own a car, or use other forms of transportation (service bus, boat, etc), you might want to look at homes away from these hubs, so you don’t end up paying for something you won’t use very often. This is true for most cities, but the effect in Istanbul is exaggerated and prices can rise as soon as a new metro line is announced, long before it’s even built. Wikipedia has a useful map of public transportation in the city, which includes upcoming unfinished projects.

Neighbourhood also matters, of course. Some are pricier than others, due to the type of homes, the people that live there, the proximity to various facilities and parts of the city, as well as several other factors. Popularity of various neighbourhoods can change drastically over time, however, so it’s worth checking from time to time. In order to compare neighbourhoods easily, take a look at the Emlak Endeksi like the ones provided by hepsiemlak and Sahibinden.com (both are Turkish-only, for the moment). These allow you to see the relative prices between neighbourhoods, as well as the change in price over time.

Coming up

If you are planning to buy a house in Istanbul but need more advice on the neighbourhoods, make sure to keep an eye out for the second part of this series: Finding the Right Place.

In an individual account, you alone have ownership of the account and can essentially do what you want with it solely. However, in a joint account should be aware of the two kinds: “successive joint account” and “both-to-sign joint account”.

Any holder of a “successive joint account” has the power to execute transactions on their own accord, such as withdrawing cash, closing the account, or transferring the account to another bank branch.  On the other hand, a “both-to-sign joint account” does not allow any single account holder the right to perform such actions without the other account holder’s signature. Long story short, you should open the type of joint account that is right for your situation. This is true regardless of nationality, but as with most things being a foreigner can complicate the consequences of picking the wrong type of joint account.

So what if you want to close a both-to-sign joint account and the other account holder(s) doesn’t want to or you can’t reach them? Recently, I worked on just such a case for a foreign client and was disappointed to find just how little large banks in Turkey are willing to help people in this situation.

Imagine that, for some reason, you opened a “both-to-sign joint account” with your partner many years ago and then you broke up, never saw them again and got rid of all their contact information. For whatever reason, you didn’t close your joint accounts immediately but after some time, you decided to close the account. As an account holder, you should be able to exit the account without closing it, meaning that the account will remain open in the other party’s name only rather than with yours.

Unfortunately, this is not what even some of Turkey’s largest and most prominent banks apply in practice. They may keep you stuck in the account until you can produce the other account holder, who then must agree to allow you to exit the account. If you can’t produce the other account holder(s), you face being tied to this account for an indefinite period of time because although the bank may acknowledge the illogic, they may not have a solution available in their systems. Even if other party avoids releasing you from the account purposefully or has simply become unreachable, the bank may state that you are stuck.

In this situation, when you contact your bank representative they will likely tell you that they or the bank’s legal department have to check your account agreement with the bank. If they are able to find it, they will tell you that you do not have the power to close or disassociate from the account unilaterally. If they cannot find it, they will say no decision can be made unless you can find and provide your copy of your agreement. In my client’s case, they did not have their copy after so many years and the bank conveniently couldn’t find a copy of their agreement either. Effectively, my client was being forced to remain in an account for which the bank itself had the lost evidence that they had ever agreed to it.

This is another important point when dealing with large institutions in Turkey; do not assume they will always keep copies of your contracts for the full period they have to keep it. It is not uncommon for them to lose common documents, and this is more likely to harm your interests than those of the bank. Bank officials are unlikely to seek out another solution and will keep repeating the same position, which is that you cannot close or disassociate from the account without the other party’s signature. Submitting a petition for special consideration will be likely to receive the same result. You can submit a complaint against the bank to the relevant regulatory authorities, however the process is long and you may prefer pursuing more expedient results.

Editor’s Note: If the bank ignores you, do not worry about long legal processes. You can easily file a digital complaint through the BDDK portal on e-Devlet.

I don’t recommend my friends and clients to open a “both-to-sign joint account” except in business situations in which the ability to access the account unilaterally is undesirable. If you’re in a non-business relationship with someone, you must really consider the risks of being tied to that person through such a bank account. If you really want to open a joint bank account, you should consider the merits of opening a “successive joint account”. However, in such case you should take into account that other party will have same power as you over the account. The other account holder can withdraw cash in any amount so you have to trust them or not open a joint bank account at all.

Importantly, I also encourage you to demand an English agreement (if your English is better than your Turkish) when opening and signing for a bank account. Take your time, be responsible, read and understand your agreement’s provisions, and don’t forget to save a copy of it.

The International Workforce Law No.6735 (”Law”) entered into force as of August 13, 2016 and regulates the processes and interactions to be applied for work permit requests. Before the Law, the Law on Work Permits of Foreigners was applied but it was repealed by the entering of the Law.

As we all hopefully know, it is forbidden to work in Turkey without a work permit, unless other laws, bilateral and multilateral agreements or international conventions of which Turkey is a party say otherwise. For example, Turkish citizens who intentionally renounce their citizenship under Article 28 of the Turkish Citizenship Law No.5901 still retain work rights. Otherwise, administrative fines will be imposed upon both employer and foreigner working without a work permit, in addition to the deportation of the foreigner.

Additionally, there are work permits for which you can apply as part of direct investments in Turkey. Special Direct Foreign Investments are investments that fall within the scope of Labour Code No. 4857 and require at least one of the conditions determined in Article 4 of the Regulations On The Employment Of Personnel Of Foreign Nationality in Direct Foreign Investment. For example, a work permit will be granted to a qualifying person in a company of which at least TRY 1,333,150 of the total capital value is held by foreign shareholders and which had a minimum turnover of TRY 100,200,000 in the preceding year.

Also, it is important to know that there are some professions for which foreigners cannot apply for work permits, such as lawyers, notary publics, pharmacists, etc.

Who Needs a Work Permit?
The Law applies to foreigners who are currently working or have filed an application to work, foreigners who applied to be vocational trainees or are vocational trainees, foreigners who applied to be interns or are interns, foreigners who are cross-border service providers and provide temporary services, and real persons or legal entities who currently have foreign employees or have filed applications to employ foreigners.

In addition to the scope of the Law, the managing partners of limited companies, executive board members who are partners of joint-stock companies, and the managing partners of limited partnerships divided into shares should obtain work permits.

Although the Law includes most foreigners who work/will work in Turkey, many foreigners are not aware of the obligation of a work permit because of the thinking that some work does not require a work permit. However, there are some exemptions and exceptions to work permit requirements.

What Are The Exemptions?
Foreigners who are eligible for work permit exemptions can work if they are granted work permit exemptions directly by the Ministry. Exemptions are stated in Article 55 of the Application Regulations of Law On The Work Permit For Foreigners (“Regulation”). For instance; people who are exempted by bilateral and multilateral agreements of which Turkey is a party and foreign footballers, other athletes, and coaches who are under contract and whose applications are approved by the Turkish Football Federation or General Directorate of Youth and Sports. It is a long list so I am not listing all the exemptions here. Those foreigners have to inform the related Directorate General of Migration Management (Göç İdaresi Genel Müdürlüğü) about their purpose for coming to Turkey, the duration of their stay, and place in which they will reside.

How to Apply for Work Permit?
Foreigners who want to work in Turkey have to obtain their work permit before they start working. Applications have to be made through a company/business entity. It is not possible for a foreigner to apply for work permit by themselves without an employer and a specific job for which they have been accepted. It means that, contrary to popular misconception, there is no general work permit that allows a foreigner to possess and retain the right to work independent of a specific job. Unfortunately, a considerable number of companies in Turkey do not know about necessity of employers obtaining work permits, and so they assume foreigners can have their own work permit or have a work permit already.

It is possible to apply for a work permit in Turkey or outside of Turkey. With this article, I will give information about applications in Turkey:

First, applications are filed through the online system of the Ministry of Labour and Social Security (“Ministry”), known as “e-devlet”, by providing a residence permit with at least six months of remaining validity (foreigners who obtained residence permits for associate degree or bachelor’s degree in Turkey are exempted). Information about both the employee and employer will be asked during online application.

Later on, several required documents have to be uploaded to the e-devlet system. After completing the online application, the application form has to be printed out and signed by both employee and employer and be sent to the Ministry with other required hard documents within 6 working days. This is very important to remember when someone is completing the e-devlet application.

Editor’s Note: The application is 100% online. The employer signs everything digitally with an e-signature (e-imza). You don’t need to mail any physical papers.

What Are the Most Common Documents Required?
In the process of application, some documents have to be uploaded. However, these documents can differ according to your work and the information you provide in your application. The most common documents are the residence permit (with at least 6 months remaining), the passport (if it not written with Latin letters, it has to be translated and notarized), photo, foreigner’s ID number, a petition requesting the work permit, copy of the employer’s trade registry in the official Gazette, certificate of good standing from the trade registry, tax registration certificate and other documents relevant to the company, and a power of attorney if the application is made by someone else on behalf of the company.

Moreover, foreign applicants will probably be asked to provide their diplomas and certifications for the work. However, if you satisfy certain other conditions, such as being married for at least three years to a Turk or having a Turkish parent, it may help you to gain a work permit more easily and may put you in the category of work permit exceptions, which means that the standard work permit criteria (which the Ministry describes it as evaluation criteria) will not be applied to your application. In that case, it is possible that you will need to upload other supporting documents. Once you come to the end of your application, the system will show which documents you have to upload, so it is best to be ready for it and have these documents prepared before you begin.

Do You Need Pre-Authorization?
Under the Law, pre-authorization from the relevant ministry is mandatory for work in the fields of health and education services. However, foreigners who have to obtain pre-authorization are exempt from the typical work permit evaluation criteria, which are described below.

How Will You Follow Up the Application?
The online system gives an application ID for each application, which makes it possible to check the status of your application from the e-devlet system or from the Ministry’s website.

What Are the Evaluation Criteria for Employers And Foreigners
The ministry has determined several evaluation criteria for both employers and employees, which are:

• The employer which wants to employ a foreigner has to have a minimum of 5 Turkish employees. If the foreigner applying for the work permit is also a partner of the company, this condition shall be required in the last 7 months of the 1 year work permit. This allows half a year to build a new start-up company or to grow a small company in order to allow the foreigner to legally work there.

• The issued capital of the company shall be a minimum of TRY 500,000, or gross sales shall be a minimum of TRY 800,000, or the value of exports for the last year shall be a minimum of USD 250,000.

• However, those two criteria mentioned above will not apply for the foreigners who will work in education institutions, home service providers and in the representative offices of foreign airlines in Turkey, or for foreigners who are going to be worked in state institutions and organizations in the fields of purchasing, services with an agreement or tender, and in cases where there are provisions provided by bilateral, multilateral agreements, or international conventions to which Turkey is a part.

• If the foreigner is a partner of the company, they shall have at least 20% of the total shares, equal to a minimum of TRY 100,000.

• One of the work permit criteria is based upon salary. This criterion differs according to the profession. For example: teachers, psychologists, physiotherapists, performing artists and musicians’ salaries have to be three times that of the minimum wage. For domestic workers, it must be at least minimum wage. These are some example professions.

Still, the evaluation criteria differs depending on the sector, the company, and the foreigner’s private conditions, such as marriage to a Turk, having a Turkish parent or child, being a victim of human trafficking, etc. Only some criteria or no criteria will be applied in such cases.

How Will I Learn About The Result?
After the submission, the evaluation of the application by the Ministry will be completed within 30 days, provided that all application files and requests for information have been completed. However, I recommend that you do not expect them to finalize it within this time period. Expect it to require more time.

You will get an e-mail from the Ministry informing you as to the result of your application. If the application is approved, fees have to be paid and payment details will be stated in the e-mail. After you pay the relevant fees, your application will be finalized and your work permit will be sent to your address.

If your application is rejected, it is possible to object to the decision within 30 days after the date of notification. If the objection is rejected, a lawsuit against the administration can be filed.

What Will Happen After You Obtain Your Work Permit?
As you may already know, a work permit or work permit exemption provides a residence permit. Therefore, you will not need to obtain a separate residence permit. However to clarify again, the opposite is not true. After the foreigner gets the work permit, they must be registered to the social security system within 30 days of the starting date of the work permit for applications that were submitted in Turkey.

If the application is approved, a one year work permit will be granted for a particular job and for a particular company. At the first extension for the same employer, a maximum 2 year work permit shall be granted. For the next extension for the same employer, a maximum 3 year work permit shall be granted. However, applications to work with different employers shall be evaluated like the first application.

Applications for extension have to be filed within 60 days prior to the expiration of the current work permit.

What Are Other Kinds Of Work Permit?
In this article, I have discussed several aspects pertaining to temporary work permits. Besides it, there are a few other types of work permit.

1. Permanent work permit: Foreigners who have long term residence permits or who have had work permits for least 8 years can apply for permanent work permits. Foreigners who have a permanent work permit have all the rights which a long term residence permit provides and also benefit from the rights entitled to Turkish citizens, except where private laws explicitly state otherwise. However, holders of permanent work permits cannot vote, be elected, work as a government official, or export vehicles with tax exemption. They do not need to perform military service in Turkey.
2. Independent work permit: This permit gives the right to a foreigner to work in his/her name and on their own account in Turkey. A foreigner’s education, professional experience, contribution to science and technology, the effect of the foreigner’s investment or activity on the Turkey’s economy, and their employment experience are considered by the Ministry before granting an independent work permit.

Additionally, the Turquoise Card, which was established with the Law published on August 13, 2016, gives the right to work permanently to a foreigner.

• Turquoise Card: This grants permanent work rights to a foreigner in Turkey and grants a residence permit to the foreigner’s spouse and dependent children. It may be granted to foreigners whose applications are considered appropriate by the Ministry on the basis of the foreigner’s education, professional experience, contribution to science and technology, the effect of the foreigner’s investment or activity on the Turkey’s economy, and their employment experience. Turquoise Card will be granted to foreigners who are accepted as highly qualified workers, highly qualified investors, scientists and researchers who working or researching in strategic fields, internationally successful in sports, cultural and artistic activities, etc. However, the first three years of the Turquoise Card are a transition period and if it is not cancelled within this transition period, the permanent Turquoise Card will be granted upon application by the foreigner. The application shall be made in last 180 days of the expiration of the transition period. A foreigner who will apply for the Turquoise Card does not need to have residence permit if he/she is in Turkey legally and applies from Turkey. Importantly, foreigners who are under the temporary protection regime, which mainly applies to Syrians, are not eligible for the Turquoise Card.

Can Foreign Students Work in Turkey?
Students enrolled in associate degrees or bachelor’s programs (formal education programs) can also apply for work permits after they finish one year of studying but only for part time work under Turkish Employment Law. However, these restrictions will not apply to foreigner students in graduate degree programs. Applications have to be filed within the period of their residence permit.

Did we forget anything? Please let us know in the comments.

What is Müzekart?

The Müzekart gives you entry to more than 300 attractions across the country managed by the Turkish Ministry of Culture and Tourism. You can avoid lines at larger sites (using the group entrance) and get discounts at other museums, cafes, and so on.

A Müzekart+ gives you one year of unlimited access to nominated attractions – except those with electronic turnstile systems in place, which allow two visits within the year. Students above 18 years of age, and teachers at Ministry of Education-approved private primary and secondary schools are entitled to a discounted card. The card expires one year after the date of issue.

The list of entry fees available on the müzekart website will give you an idea whether it’s worth buying a Müzekart. It is something to consider if you plan to visit a number of cultural attractions within the coming year; for example, if you’re going on a trip to another part of Turkey, or will play tour guide to visiting friends or family. Sometimes a single visit to one of the more popular sites is more than the cost of the card!

Where can I use it?

The full list of sites where the card is valid can be found on the Turkish museums website. (This does not include some of the major ones like Dolmabahçe Palace and the Basilica Cistern, which are managed by other bodies.)

Outside of Istanbul, you can use the card at popular attractions including the Ephesus archaeological site, the Göreme Open-Air Museum in Cappadocia, Pamukkale (Hierapolis) and Sumela Monastery in Trabzon. Note that Müzekart is not accepted in some separately-ticketed areas within these sites, such as the Terrace Houses in Ephesus, and the Dark Church in Göreme.

How do I get one?

In Istanbul, you can purchase a Müzekart from the ticket offices at sites including the Istanbul Archaeology Museums, Great Palace Mosaic Museum, and the Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum. Remember to bring your residence or work permit along with the card fee. Students and teachers should also bring official proof of enrollment/employment from their institution to obtain their discount.

Editor’s Note: The process is now almost completely digitalized. Foreign residents do not need to wait in massive ticket lines or bring physical passport photos. You can instantly buy a Digital Müzekart directly through the official MüzeKart mobile app or the website by entering your 99-xx Residence Permit ID number. It generates a QR code on your phone to scan at museum gates instantly.

While it should only take about five minutes to have your card issued, ticket lines can be long – go outside of peak visiting hours or to a less-frequented attraction (such as the Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum) to avoid inordinately-long queues.

A more convenient option may be to purchase online for delivery to your address, or opt for the digital version via the official Museum Card app.

Museum Pass

For visitors to Turkey, there are a number of museum passes allowing entry to multiple attractions at a discounted rate. With multi-day passes available for Istanbul, Cappadocia, the Aegean and Mediterranean regions, as well as the whole of Turkey, remember to let your visiting friends and relatives know about the options available. Both tourists and residents can save considerable amounts, all the better to spend on yet another Turkish tea, coffee, or beverage of choice. Cheers!

This article was originally published in 2018 and updated May of 2026.

In Buddhism, the goal is to cultivate our seeds of mindfulness and compassion, and avoiding meat has helped me feel more at peace with myself and stable in my own skin, and this has a ripple effect on the people around me. And for any meat eaters reading this, please remember that simply reducing your meat consumption is already a step toward greater global harmony and alleviating global warming. Another Buddhist principle states that, no matter what point you’re at right now, it’s a wonderful place to begin.

The following is a list of restaurants I have found that offer extensive vegetarian options. I have tried to include a variety of cuisines and cooking styles to show that eliminating meat from your diet doesn’t mean you’re eating the same boring food incessantly. Please keep in mind that I still eat dairy, honey, and occasionally eggs, so if you are a vegan, some places may not offer much, or you may have to inquire about vegan options. However, the list can still be of use to you. Even for vegans, though, options in the city are expanding. Some branches of Mado now offer vegan ice cream and many shops now sell vegan cheese, mayonnaise, and even imitation döner kebap.

Tahin

This Lebanese falafel grill features several different hummus blends, as well as two different vegan platter combinations. Veggie options include tabbouleh (parsley and lemon salad), nar mutabbal (eggplant and pomegranate spread), flat bread with zaatar (a spice mixture of dried sumac, sesame seeds, hyssop, and olive oil), and if you eat dairy, labne (strained yogurt spread with herbs). The restaurant has five locations throughout the city and may deliver to your apartment through Yemeksepeti.

Tahin has five locations in Maslak, Moda, Karaköy, Rumelihisarüstü, and Nişantaşı. For more information, visit the official website. 

Çiya Kebap and Çiya Sofrası

Even if you’re tired of Turkish food, this cluster of three Turkish restaurants is well worth visiting. The owners are known for seeking out unusual dishes in different regions throughout Anatolia and cooking with high quality ingredients. There is outdoor seating and a self-service buffet as well as a set menu. The best deal for vegetarians is to go to the self service section, which consistently contains hummus, patlıcan tarator (eggplant and yogurt spread), muharrama (cheese, walnut, and red pepper spread), beet salads, and, of course, dolmas as well as a few delicious surprise dishes. Just grab a plate and dig in.

Çiya has three locations, all on Güneşli Bahçe Sokak in Kadıköy. Çiya Sofrası, located at number 43, has the most options for vegetarians and vegans. Look for the self service, which has a completely vegetarian section toward the staircase. Some foods may contain cheese, butter or yogurt. You will be charged based on the weight of the plate.

Musafir

This lively Indian has several options not found at other Indian places in the city, such as baingan bharta (smoked spicy eggplant). They also offer several options for naan bread, paneer tikka masala (cheese in spiced, creamy tomato sauce) biryani rice, and desserts. They also offer decadent Indian desserts, such as kheer (spiced rice pudding).

Musafir is located at Recep Paşa Cd. 7/C close to the Taksim metro stop.

Aladdin

Another Indian/Pakistani restaurant inside the Grand Star hotel in the Taksim area, veggie options include channa masala (spiced chickpeas) and vegetable biryani. Meat options can be made vegetarian (although the substitute may be cheese) if requested.

Aladdin is located at the Grand Star Hotel on Siraselviler Caddesi No 45.

Habesha

Finally reopened after much waiting, Istanbul’s first Ethiopian restaurant is back. Habesha offers enormous vegetarian platters of misir wat (spicy lentils), shiro wat (ground chickpeas with garlic), beets, carrots, and of course served with spongy injera bread. The vegetables are flavored with the lovely spice mixture berbere which leaves sensuous, yet strong flavors on the tongue. Of course, eating with your hands while using this bread is the traditional way. Don’t miss the authentic Ethiopian coffee served from a traditional jebena vessel. Sometimes, you can catch Ethiopian dance performances.

Habesha is located at Ekrem Tur Sk. No:5 in Taksim area.

Yüksel Uygur Restaurant

The Uyghur cuisine is completely halal and heavily influenced by Han Chinese cuisine. This Uyghur place offers several vegan dishes with tofu, eggplant, black mushrooms, and green peppers served with traditional black tea. All dishes taste delicious with lagman flat noodles.

Yüksel Uygur Restaurant is located at Turgut Özal Millet Cd 21/A near the Yusufpaşa tram stop.

Böcek

This attractive cafe is very popular among young people in the neighborhood and features several vegetarian and vegan options for pizzas, breakfast, pasta, and desserts. The vegan breakfast platter (available all day), which features hummus, fresh fruit and vegan sausages, is a particularly festive option. Sometimes live music and theater events are held there as well.

Böcek is located at Bademaltı Sk. 17/A in Kadıköy.

Story Coffee

Right next to Böcek, this charming cafe offers many vegetarian breakfast options, including pancakes, breakfast burritos, and meatless Turkish breakfast platters. Many dishes that include meat can be made vegetarian upon request. They also have several coffee and tea options, including tasty chai latte with Indian spices.

Story Coffee is located at Dalga Sk. No:22 in Kadıköy.

Chaya

Chaya offers several vegetarian and vegan options, including veggie burgers, vegetarian mantı, sandwiches, and breakfast platters. But of course the main attraction is the eclectic selection of teas served in elegant traditional Chinese teapots. Options include rooibos, green, white, oolong, and black teas in a huge variety of blends and flavors, including Moroccan mint tea and Chinese lapsang souchong (black breakfast tea).

Chaya Galata is located at Şahkulu Bostan Sokak, No 22/A near the Şişhane metro stop. Chaya Moda is located at Bademaltı Sk. 17/B in Kadıköy.

Mahatma

Completely vegetarian and featuring many vegan options, Mahatma specializes in Middle Eastern and Turkish cooking. Options include falafel plates and vegetarian menemen and börek.

Mahatma is located at Macit Erbudak Sk. 50/A in Kadıköy.

Çok Çok Thai

This Thai restaurant offers a variety of refreshingly spicy curries (including massaman peanut, green and red curries), noodle dishes, and decadent Thai iced teas. Many dishes that contain meat can be improvised with tofu and vegetables on request.

Çok Çok Thai is located at Meşrutiyet Cd. 51/A near the Şişhane metro stop. For more information, read Yabangee’s review of Çok Çok Thai.

Cafe MU

A small cafe in Kadıköy, Cafe MU features an eclectic tea menu, including ayurvedic tea, Indian masala chai, Chinese white tea and matcha green tea lattes. Dining options include  vegetarian breakfast places and vegan cookies. Coffees can be flavored with infusions such as pumpkin, chocolate, chili and orange.

Cafe MU is located at Karakolhane Cad. No:46/A in Kadıköy off of Uzun Hafız Sokak.

Benazio

Right next to Cafe MU, this cafe includes vegetarian breakfast plates with mung beans, zaatar, tahin pekmez (sesame seed paste and grape syrup), fresh jams, rich cheeses and succulent black olives. Vegetarian sandwiches, flavored coffee drinks (including a stimulating Mexican style ice chili mocha) and a wide tea selection.

Benazio is located at Karakolhane Cd. No 48/A in Kadıköy off of Uzun Hafız Sokak.

Yer

Perhaps one of the most innovative restaurants in Istanbul, this charming bar and restaurant in Kadıköy offers several creative sandwiches and salads with exotic ingredients, such as quinoa, mung beans, avocado, and wild mushrooms. These include a quinoa-based veggie burger.

Yer is located at Ferit Tek Sokak, No 25/A on the edge of Moda.

As always, feel free to share suggestions in the comments section.

All photos courtesy of Aladdin and Çok Çok Thai.

You may have read a recent article of ours, How to Save Money in Turkey, which focused on safe, reliable ways to put money away for a rainy day or a big future expense. This guide takes that a bit further, and is intended for those of you who don’t have too many financial responsibilities (e.g. school tuition for the kids, mortgage or car payments) and are thinking instead about cutting down on a night out a week, or a pricey coffee a day, and putting it towards a little nest egg.

The three investment options outlined in this guide are a bit riskier than your average savings account or government bonds, but bring the possibility of earning more over the year than you’ll lose to inflation (everything’s always getting more expensive, right?). All three are available through online banking, and don’t require any minimum commitment, so you can save bit by bit, or just dump some in whenever it’s burning a hole in your pocket.

Mutual Funds

An investment company, a bank for example, will pay a manager to buy up some stocks or other assets from a variety of companies. They then bundle these up and sell you bits of that bundle. Think of it like buying an assorted pack of candy for a friend, rather than just one type. There’s a much better chance there will be something in there that they’ll like, right?

Because you aren’t buying a piece of one company, but rather a lot of little pieces of a lot of companies, the overall risk (e.g. a company goes bankrupt unexpectedly) is much reduced. The magic here is that this is done in one quick, easy transaction, rather than going and buying a little bit of each company’s stock, one by one.

The investment company earns money this way by charging fees, which they take out of the amount that you earn. Almost all funds work this way in Turkey, although this varies in other countries. They use some of those fees to pay the manager, and keep some as profit. This means higher fees overall, but having the manager there to adjust which stocks they hold from time to time could be valuable in a crisis.

In Turkey, you can generally buy mutual funds very easily through online banking by going to the Investment selection and clicking on Mutual funds. Your bank will usually list their own funds prominently, which should offer a variety of options. My advice to you is to go for one called “Balanced”, which means they won’t take on too much risk on exotic assets, e.g. Bitcoin. An example from my bank, Garanti, would be the Garanti Portföy İkinci Değişken Fon (SMART Dengeli Fon) fund.

Once you’ve completed the transaction, your bank will transfer your money to the fund manager, who will buy up extra bits of all the fund assets according to the amount of money you put in. This takes a couple of days. Be careful to plan accordingly, as it also takes a couple days to cash out when you want to sell your funds later.

Index ETFs (Electronically-traded Funds)

Electronically-traded funds (ETFs) are similar to mutual-funds, except that there’s no manager to make adjustments. The investment company selects a series of assets and then just bundles them up to sell. This might seem a little bit risky, but that’s where the “Index” part comes in. Index ETFs are funds that own a little bit of all the companies on the stock market. This spreads the risk around and makes sure that crises in any one company or sector don’t bring the whole thing down.

Since there’s no manager, the fees are also a lot lower. In Turkey, mutual funds usually charge fees of 2-3% on your earnings, whereas ETFs are generally below 1%. Another benefit to ETFs is that they are traded like stocks, which means you can buy and sell them more or less immediately as long as the stock market is open, rather than waiting the one or two business days that it takes with mutual funds.

ETFs are relatively new in Turkey and aren’t that much older elsewhere, so there are only two true Index ETFs I’ve been able to find so far: IST30F and ISY30. They both do the same thing, just from different investment companies. Since they’re offered through the stock market, you should be able to buy them from any Turkish bank. Look for the stocks section on your online banking page and put in one of the two codes above.

Editor’s Note: There are many different Index ETFs on Borsa Istanbul today, tracking stocks, gold, and other assets.

Despite the other advantages, ETFs can be a little trickier to buy than mutual funds. Since they’re traded over the stock market, you need to open up a separate investment account with your bank. This means going to your branch and signing a bunch of papers. Once that’s done though, you can buy and sell to your heart’s content, so it may be worth the effort.

Editor’s Note: You can open an investment account instantly on your mobile app without going to a bank branch.

Foreign Currency Basket

You may have noticed that most banks charge a yearly fee on all Turkish Lira bank accounts. Not the case with foreign currency, so you’re free to open as many non-lira accounts as your heart desires. Most Turkish banks also feature a large variety of options, from dollars to pounds, to euros, yen, rubles, etc.

Editor’s Note: In Turkey, banks do not charge a yearly fee for keeping a Turkish Lira or a foreign currency account.

Currencies are constantly losing and gaining value relative to each other for a vast variety of reasons. Rather than putting all your eggs in one basket and saving your money in one, it might make more sense to split that money up and buy little amounts of a handful. This way you can spread the risk around, much as with mutual funds and ETFs. If one country suffers an economic crisis, their currency might go down, but others might go up due to good economic news.

Turkish banks also allow you to exchange currencies without converting them back to Lira first. This allows you to buy euros with your dollars when the US is doing well or the EU isn’t, or sell your yen to buy pounds if you’re worried about Brexit. For more information on this, check out the arbitraj section in your online banking menu.

Currency transactions are some of the easiest you can do online, no more complicated than transferring money from one of your accounts to another. They’re also available 24/7 and occur immediately, which is an advantage over the other two options we’ve discussed in this article.

Reminder: Think before you leap!

Investing money is always a risk, and there is always a possibility that investments will lose value, rather than gain. Always take this into account before investing your hard-earned money, and make sure that you are mentally prepared to lose some of it, even if only temporarily.

Scenario 1: Visiting for a short period on a tourist visa

A: If you come to Turkey with an international roaming package from another country, you can continue to use your phone normally in Turkey for an indefinite amount of time according to the arrangement with your home country’s provider. We would assume this is more expensive than just buying a local sim, but perhaps not – especially if it’s a short trip.

B: If you come to Turkey and would like to use a local sim card, you can purchase one at any main provider – Turkcell, Vodafone, Türk Telekom. You can usually find their kiosks after clearing customs in the arrivals section of the airport or visit any of the main shops located throughout the country. You will provide your e-visa, passport, and the phone you will be using. They will offer a prepaid package for you to accept. Save all the paperwork they provide you.

Note: If they don’t offer to do so, go ahead and ask them to insert the sim and verify it works. If they inform that your phone needs to be unlocked for the sim to work, you will likely have to unlock it on your own. This is usually done via the website of your phone’s original contract provider. It’s easiest to make sure your phone is unlocked before arriving to Turkey to save any extra stress. Some phones cannot be unlocked while under contract, so keep this in mind.

Note 2: If you’ve taken out your old sim and plan to use it again, make sure you put it somewhere safe. They’re tiny and can be easily lost.

Sim cards are supposedly given 120 days of use before they will be locked, and you should be receiving messages like the one pictured here indicating that your deadline is approaching. However, there have been multiple reported cases of phones locking arbitrarily anytime after the 30 day mark, so if you intend to stay a while and would like to be on the safe side, it makes sense to register as early as possible.

Scenario 2: Staying/Living in Turkey for longer than the length of a tourist visa
Before registering your phone, it’s important to consider the fees associated with it. As of 2022, registering a phone purchased abroad costs roughly ~54.000 Turkish Lira and another phone from abroad cannot be registered to your passport for three years. Quality smart phones from Turkish producers (or even lower-end/older versions of international brands) can be purchased for just a little more, so if you have an older model or think you’ll be replacing yours with a newer model purchased abroad in the near future, keep the cost and three-year restriction in mind. Any phone purchased at a reputable shop in Turkey, regardless of brand, should be fine to use without registering. Secondhand phones can also be purchased (just make sure they aren’t locked when you’re purchasing them) at comparable rates.

If you decide to proceed with registering your foreign phone, you will need to have your IMEI (International Mobile Equipment Identity) number to complete the process, so go ahead and research that. The typical way to do this is simply calling *#06# on your phone, but it doesn’t work on every model.

You will now need to pay a tax fee connected to your IMEI number at a local tax office (search for ‘vergi dairesi’ to find your nearest one). Take your passport, resident permit, IMEI number, and phone with you. Save the paperwork they provide you.

Editor’s Note: You can pay the registration fee digitally via the e-Devlet portal or through most Turkish banking apps using your IMEI number. Physical visits to tax offices are no longer necessary for this process.

(If you don’t have a residence permit, you are still eligible to register your IMEI, although your mobile provider will likely lock you out shortly after the duration of your visa regardless.)

Note: You can check the status of your IMEI registration online. It usually takes a full business day for this registration to be complete. Link here: https://www.turkiye.gov.tr/imei-sorgulama

Once you’ve paid the tax and confirmed, you can complete the final steps in person or online. Regardless of which you opt/qualify for, you will need an e-devlet password (which if you don’t already have, you can get from your local PTT for a couple of Turkish Lira). (If you use online banking, you may not need the e-devlet password.) Now:

• To do it in person, you can simply take your residence permit, passport, tax receipt from registering your IMEI number, and e-devlet password to the local branch of your provider (or wherever you plan to buy your sim) and have them do it for you. They usually charge extra for this, but will go ahead and link it with your phone number.
• To do it online yourself, you will follow the steps via the official website. You will likely need a Turkish speaker to assist, or try using the Google Translate feature. The website is: https://www.turkiye.gov.tr/btk-imei-kaydet

Tip: Record your IMEI number in case of theft. In the event your phone is stolen, you can completely lock the phone by contacting your provider with the IMEI and your details. This prevents the phone from being used with other sims/providers as well.

Workarounds and Miscellaneous

• You may at any time receive a text message from your provider informing that you need to update your residence permit details with them. The simplest way is to visit a nearby branch with your passport and kimlik. If you have your provider’s app installed on your phone, you may also be able to do it there. If you’re directed to an external link however, do be careful that it’s not a scam of some sort. This process should be totally free and won’t require credit card details.
• Providers like Turkcell will typically disable sim cards after they’ve been inactive for six months.
• Some providers do now offer special rates and contracts for foreigners. We suggest shopping around and seeing your options.
• It’s worth noting that many smaller shops are licensed to provide basic mobile provider services, but can’t actually assist with any part of the registration process. You will need to visit a proper franchised branch for this.
• A couple of workarounds have been suggested to us that we should mention:
  • One method is changing sim cards roughly every three months before the phone it’s associated with is locked. We cannot verify this works, but it does appear to be a glaring loophole for anyone willing to constantly change their number and have to deal with the hassle of re-registering a sim card. Editor’s Note: This method no longer works.
  • Some less than reputable shops will root your phone if it’s an Android and link it with a different IMEI for a nominal fee so you don’t have to pay the taxes. In addition to the risks of rooting a phone, this is almost certainly illegal and as your SIM is associated with your identity, we strongly advise against this route.

If you have any information that should be corrected or included in this piece, please do let us know in the comments.

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This article was last published in May, 2019 by Tarik Yassien.

Yabangee has had the privilege of collaborating with many amazing people who were kind enough to share their experiences and make life easier here for all of us. We’ve put together some of their content to streamline the process for new arrivals, as well as hopefully offer some useful information to long-term residents. As we’ve been around for a while now, this is just a sampling of the hard work everyone has put in, so please do feel free to explore the site for additional valuable content.

If you’re interested in events, you can always check out our What’s On section. We do also host our own events and regularly share relevant content via Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.

Finally, if you have any thoughts to share or notice anything is out of date in our guide, please don’t hesitate to drop us an e-mail to editor@yabangee.com. If you happen to be interested in writing or photography, we’d also love to consider you for a position on our team of volunteer contributors.

Writers and photographers can learn more about joining the contributor team here. University students interested in joining our event organization and promotion team can apply here.

NOTE: Be sure to check the date of the posts you’re reading. We do try and keep posts updated, but it’s not always possible, and things do change. (Particularly, be aware of inflation’s effect on anything included in older pieces.)

Hadi başlayalım…

Getting Started

There’s a lot to process when you first move to the city! You’ve got to worry about the legality of your stay, where to find an apartment, opening a bank account, registering your cell phone, etc. We’ve put together a few pieces on what you can expect to deal with at the start.

Getting Your Residence Permit in 14 (Somewhat) Easy Steps – If you’re planning on staying longer than the duration of your 90 day visa, then booking a residence permit appointment is the first thing you’ll want to do. Once booked, you’ll be able to legally remain in Turkey until the date of your appointment.

Residence Permit Health Insurance – Our Quick, Easy and Affordable Application Process – You’ll likely notice as soon as you try to book an appointment that you’ll need an insurance policy number to complete the process. We’ve partnered with a reputable agency to provide the cheapest prices possible. Fill out our form to get a quick price quote and additional details on claiming your policy number.

Residence Permit Frequently Asked Questions – Sometimes getting a residence permit can be a little complicated, especially in the cases of unique circumstance. You’ll find some of our most commonly received questions on the process here.

Opening a Bank Account in Turkey – There are a number of reasons you might find yourself needing a bank account in Turkey. The process is actually quite painless, but you’ll want to be sure to have everything prepared as bank employees will frequently be unaware of the requirements for registering an account for a foreigner.

Guide to Using & Registering a Foreign Phone in Turkey – If you love your phone and will want to keep using it in Turkey, but it was purchased abroad, then you’ll need to register it.

Renting a Flat in Istanbul: A Basic Guide to Accommodation – One of the first things you’ll have to do after arriving is find some accommodation. We’ve put together some basic tips to make it less of an intimidating process.

Guide to Registering Utilities in Istanbul – Once you’ve secured your flat, you’ll want to register your utilities.

Learning Turkish

In our experience, there are plenty of foreigners who never bother to learn the language beyond the absolute basics. While you may be able to get by with just survival Turkish, it’s really worth the effort to push beyond and even just reach an intermediate level. So many wonderful expressions to learn and it’s really helpful for those times you’ll want to argue with someone.

Learning Turkish: What You’re Up Against – When entering battle, it’s always good to know about your opponent. The same holds true here.

5 Tips for Learning Turkish as a Native English Speaker – We can use all the help we can get…

23 Turkish Phrases I Wish Someone Had Taught Me – A fun fact is that this actually happens to be our most popular piece on the site to date. This is a fantastic cheat sheet to get you started on your language journey.

Survival Taxi Turkish – Unless you have a car, it’s very likely that you’ll be spending a lot of time practicing your Turkish with taxi drivers.

Your Most Important Vocab Lesson: The Haircut – Getting a haircut in Turkey can be intimidating, especially if you’re pretty specific in how you like your hair styled. This vocab guide should sort you out.

Learning Turkish: 10 Idioms That Are Sure to Impress – If you really want to impress locals with your Turkish, then you’ll want to sprinkle some idioms into conversation. These are guaranteed to do the trick.

Learning Turkish: 10 Idioms That Are Sure to Impress (II) – Keep those idioms coming…

Diaries of a Couch Potato: How to Learn Turkish via Kiralık Aşk (Love for Rent) – You’ll often meet locals with fantastic English who learned the language from TV shows, video games, etc. You can do the same! If you fancy a bit of drama in your TV shows, then this is a great starting point.

5 Turkish Words I Can’t Live Without – You’ll find these to be the bread & butter of your exchanges.

A Surprising Way to Improve Your Turkish: Bureaucracy – You may as well benefit from your Kafkaesque struggles.

A Surprising Way to Improve Your Turkish: Bureaucracy (Part II) – The sequel!

Lifestyle & Useful Information

Now that you’re living here and have sorted the basics, it’s time to make the city feel like home.

How to Make Friends as a Foreigner in Istanbul – Don’t be intimidated! In a city this large, there are plenty of opportunities to meet new people and form meaningful relationships.

Maintaining Your Sanity in Istanbul: 10 Tips – In your first few months, you might find yourself feeling a bit overwhelmed. Take a deep breath…

6 Must-Have Apps for Living in Istanbul – Some of these apps will save you countless hours and quite a bit of money in the long run.

Istanbul Recycling 101 – Embracing an environmentally conscious lifestyle in this city is actually not that difficult.

An ode to public transit. Thank you, Istanbul! – With plenty of various methods of public transit to choose from, it’s always good to express some appreciation.

A Guide to Online Shopping in Turkey – Great for when you’re too busy to go shopping or just can’t seem to find that thing you’re looking for.

Expat Life: Having a Baby in Turkey – Plenty of foreigners choose to have their babies here rather than going home for the process.

A Guide to Istanbul Earthquake Preparedness – It probably won’t be long before you experience a tiny tremor. However, with a larger earthquake constantly a subject of caution, it can’t hurt to be prepared.

Travelling to Turkey with Pets 101 – Bring your furry friends with you!

Leaving Turkey with Pets 101 – Also, don’t leave your furry friends behind!

An Expat’s Guide to Hamams – Go relax and regenerate in one of the city’s iconic bathhouses.

9 Tips to Know Before Visiting a Turkish Home – It’s inevitable that you’ll eventually get invited to a local’s house. Avoid committing a faux pas.

The World is a Square: A Briefing on the History and Rules of Tavla (Backgammon) – If you haven’t learned how to play backgammon yet, you’ll want to do so ASAP. A great way to kill some time and gain some street credit.

Getting Married in Turkey: Frequently Asked Questions – This country has plenty of stunning places to get married in and the process is reasonably straight-forward.

My Big Fat Wedding Dress: An Istanbul Guide – Trying to find that perfect wedding dress here?

Tipping in Turkey – Confused about tipping etiquette in Turkey? Don’t be.

Getting to the Airport: More Than One Way to Getaway – Plotting for a flight out and want to do so cheaply while avoiding traffic? Don’t we all…

5 Tips for Getting Around Istanbul with a Young Baby – Go forth and explore the city with your little ones!

Istanbul’a Hoş Geldiniz: Best Istanbul-Centric Facebook Groups – While not everyone has a Facebook account, there are plenty of groups worth bookmarking for their valuable cache of information.

10 Reasons Why Living in the Deep West Isn’t So Bad – Are you living a little bit farther west than most of your friends in the city? Plenty to be positive about!

Choosing a Housekeeper and/or Nanny in Istanbul – Sometimes you just need a helping hand…

Biking the ‘Bul – Biking in Istanbul is becoming more accepted year by year, so don’t let the traffic hold you back.

How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the ‘Bul – We love it too!

There’s No Such Thing as a Simple Turkish Wedding – The degree of truth in this title can only be understood after attending a few.

Rakı Dos and Don’ts – Do it and do it regularly.

Tax Season Approacheth: Tips for U.S. Expats – Don’t let filing taxes get you down.

Luggage Delayed? How to Claim Compensation – Yes it happens from time to time. Know your rights and claim compensation.

How to Donate Blood in Istanbul as a Yabangee – For the benevolent among us.

Seasonal Foods in Turkey: A Breakdown – Spend some time at your local market and you’ll soon realize that knowing when to get the freshest ingredients requires a bit of work.

15 LGBT Friendly Spaces in Istanbul – The LGBTQA community in Istanbul regularly inspires and there are plenty of openly welcoming destinations to choose from.

Saving Money in Turkey – It’s possible!

Investing in Turkey for the Young and Internet-savvy – Instead of spending that money, maybe you should try to invest.

10 Tips for Coping with Feelings of Isolation and Loneliness as an Expat – One Turkish psychologist weighs in on reducing the stress…

Psychological Counseling Options for Internationals in Istanbul – There are resources out there to help.

Issues with Joint Bank Accounts in Turkey – Some people get engaged, others move in together… and some open a joint bank account. We’ve covered some regular issues to be aware of before taking the plunge.

Eating Istanbul: Vegetarian and Vegan Friendly Food – There’s plenty of options out there for those wishing to live an animal-friendly lifestyle.

Six Tips For Foreigners To Blend Into Turkish Society – Be a chameleon of Istanbul life.

Buying A Home in Turkey: Part I (Who, Where and When?); Part II (Finding the Right Place); Finding the Right Price (Part III); Getting a Mortgage (Part IV) – This four-part series covers everything you need to know about buying a home.

A Guide to Adopting Street Animals in Turkey – For when you finally want to bring one of your furry neighborhood friends inside.

7 Best First Date Destinations in Istanbul – You can thank us later.

Obtaining a Work Permit in Turkey – We got some legal advice on the matter to clear up any misconceptions.

12 Cool Places to Study in Galata Neighborhood – One of the most beautiful areas in the city has some of the best study spots.

Expat Life: Why I chose to give birth in Turkey – Much in common, but also many differences to keep in mind.

Giving Birth in Turkey: Choosing the Right Obstetrician – An important step as you physically and mentally prepare for the months ahead.

How to Get a Müzekart in Istanbul – If you love visiting historical and cultural sites + saving money, then this is the guide for you.

Giving Birth in Turkey: Getting Prepared – Tips & resources to ease this moment in your life.

14 Vegetarian Friendly Cafes in Istanbul – Delicious!

Nine Tips for Biking in Istanbul – For the brave of heart.

Expat Life: Bringing Your Baby Home – Now for the fun part.

General Culture, History & Holidays

Turkey has so many unique, deeply enriching qualities. Learning about and experiencing them is perhaps the greatest aspect of living here.

Famous Turks: The Mysticism of Mevlana Celaladdin Rumi
The Top 5 Yeşilçam Films
Ramadan in Turkey: A Primer
Kurban Bayramı: A Guide to “Sacrifice Feast” in Istanbul
Five Essential Turkish Films
Istanbul Street Names: The Stories They Tell
Müslüm Gürses and The Rise of Arabesk
Christmas in Istanbul: 5 Last Minute Ideas
The A-Z of Turkish Music
Ibrahim Tatlıses for Beginners
Mirror, Mirror on the Wall: Turkish Fortune-Telling Culture
Republic Day: A Last-Minute Guide
Istanbul: So Good They Named It Thrice
Barbarossa: A Monument in Passing, But a Legend on the White Sea
Istanbul’s Historical Hamams and the Public Bathing Culture
Eleven Things No Turkish Home Should Be Without
The Balyan Family: Royal Architects of the Late Ottoman Empire
A Mythical Tale of Love: Mimar Sinan and Mihrimah Sultan
Black Cats and Slippers: Turkish Superstitions
Romance of the Roma: Hıdırellez, Spring time and the ‘Gypsy’ culture of Istanbul

See, Eat, Drink, & Do

There’s something for everyone in this city. With an endless list of destinations worth checking out, boredom is no longer an issue.

Visit & Do
Plenty of historic places to visit, projects to work with, and ways to stay active.

Top 10 Forgotten Historical sites of Istanbul
Come what may, Spoken Word Istanbul is here to stay
Live Music in Istanbul: 9 of the City’s Best Venues
Istanblues Be Gone! A Rainy Day Guide
6 Permanent Istanbul Collections Worth (Re)visiting
Introducing ATÖLYE: A Community for Creatives
3, 2, 1, Let’s Run Istanbul!
The Passages of İstiklal
Rezan Has Museum: A Gem on the Golden Horn
Running the Istanbul Marathon
An Ideal Sunday Morning: Çakmak Kahvaltı Salonu and Beşiktaş Hamamı
Büyülü Fener: A Magic Lantern to Istanbul’s Past
The Şakirin Mosque
Green Getaway: Atatürk Ormanı and Florya Sahil Parkı
Istanbul Parks and Treats: A Pairing
Istanbul’s Hidden Architecture: Şemsi Pasha Mosque
Levantine Lessons: Discovering Syria in Istanbul
Small Projects Istanbul: Emphasizing Education
Review: Spoken Word Istanbul @ Arsen Lupen
Off the Beaten Track in Istanbul: Secret Food/Drink/Activity Spots
Playing Tourist in Istanbul: Where to Find Peaceful and Relaxing Spots
Tarlabaşı to Feriköy: Sunday Pazar Walk
Exploring the Princes’ Islands: The Kınalıada Mosque
Istanbul’s Hidden Architecture: The Camondo Stairs
St. Mary of the Mongols: The Last Byzantine Church
Miniatürk – Educational and Fun!
Bosphorus Walk: Rumelihisarı to Bebek
Tophane-i Amire Culture & Arts Center
The Last Round: Boxing, Martial Arts, and a Social Conscience
BU Paws: Boğaziçi University’s Dog Sanctuary
City Highlights: Sancaklar Cami
Who Loves Public Speaking?

Eat & Drink
It’s a taste bud overload! Time to eat and drink your way through this list of useful destinations, treats, and pop-up experiences.

Top 10 Craft Beer Destinations in Istanbul & Brew Breakdown
The Basics of Pairing Drinks with Turkish Street Food
Seven Organic, Health Food, and Exotic Markets in Istanbul
A Glimpse at the Magic of Turkish Tea
The Best Cheap Eats in Istanbul
In Search of Mantı
Winter Drinks: Searching for Real Sahlep
Beers of Turkey: Then and Now
Finding and Tasting Turkey’s Microbrews: Gara Guzu and Pera
Tribute to Ayran: An Expat Love Story
Jacqueline Cookies: A Sweet Taste of Home in Cihangir
Feriköy Organic Market and the Lady of the Cake
Moda Van Kahvaltı: Brunching in Turkey
Turkish Pide: Eating Like a Local
An Ode To Turkish Cheese
Tips for Eating Organic & Healthy in Istanbul
Three Amazing Vegan Restaurants in Istanbul
Turkish Köfte for Beginners

Neighborhoods
Our Take 5 column looks at the team’s favorite spots in various neighborhoods across the city.

Take 5: Çengelköy
Take 5: Kuzguncuk
Take 5: Vefa
Take 5: Beşiktaş
Take 5: Karaköy
Take 5: Karaköy (Shopping Edition)
Take 5: Gayrettepe (Relaxation Edition)
Take 5: Üsküdar (Merkez Edition)
Take 5: Kumkapı
Take 5: Nişantaşı (Glitz Edition)
Take 5: Balat
Take 5: Kadıköy
Take 5: Historic Nucleus of Nişantaşı & Teşvikiye

From Boza to Bourbon
Fancy something to drink? Follow Cameron and Sveta as they document some of the best locations for a quality beverage.

From Boza to Bourbon: Pickle Juice at Petek Turşuları
From Boza to Bourbon: Tea Gardens
From Boza to Bourbon: George’s Bar
From Boza to Bourbon: Beer Hall
From Boza to Bourbon: 1924
From Boza to Bourbon: The Populist
From Boza to Bourbon: Mandabatmaz
From Boza to Bourbon: Street Juice
From Boza to Bourbon: Vefa Bozacısı
From Boza to Bourbon: Dem Karaköy
From Boza to Bourbon: Norm Coffee

Street Market Smarts
Our 2017 column offers all you need to know about some of the most worthwhile markets in the city, with some visual flair from our photographers.

Street Market Smarts: Spice Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı)
Street Market Smarts: Kapalıçarşı (Grand Bazaar)
Street Market Smarts: Beylikdüzü Beygah Pazarı
Street Market Smarts: Bomonti Organic Market (Şişli %100 Ekolojik Pazar)
Street Market Smarts: Beşiktaş Cumartesi Pazarı
Street Market Smarts: Tarihi Salı Pazarı (Göztepe, Kadıköy)

Yabangee Recommends
We’ve got oddly specific questions in this 2015 column. We also, fortunately, have oddly specific answers.

Yabangee Recommends: “Where do I take my friend who says there is no spicy food in Istanbul?”
Yabangee Recommends: “Where can I go when I’m the third wheel on an awkward date?”
Yabangee Recommends: “Where can I take my friends or relatives who want to try Turkish ev yemekleri?”
Yabangee Recommends: “Where can I go for a non-chocolate dessert?”
Yabangee Recommends: “Where can I get my bike repaired and grab a cup of coffee?”
Yabangee Recommends: “Where’s the best place to break up with someone?”
Yabangee Recommends: “Where can I have a leisurely breakfast and not be elbow-deep in my neighbor’s menemen?”
Yabangee Recommends: “Where do I take my vegan friend out for brunch?”
Yabangee Recommends: “Where can I go to enjoy a few beers and play pool without having to share a table with guys who own their own pool cues?”
Yabangee Recommends: “Where do I take my Turkish friend who just moved back from abroad out for dinner?”
Yabangee Recommends: “Where should I take my tourist friend who won’t admit to being a tourist?”
Yabangee Recommends: “Where do I take my friend who is sick of Turkish tea?”
Yabangee Recommends: “Where can I find the best köfte in Kadıköy?”
Yabangee Recommends: “Where can I find the best falafel in town?”
Yabangee Recommends: “My friend thinks the only good breakfast spot is Van Kahvaltı Evi. Where can I take him out to brunch to prove him wrong?”
Yabangee Recommends: “Where can I go for a set menu and cocktail in the middle of the week?”

Insider Trading
Our 2014 column offered an insider perspective from our team on some of their favorite destinations in the city. There’s plenty more to be found here.

Insider Trading: Museum of Turkish Jews in Karaköy
Insider Trading: Bosphorus Brewing Company
Insider Trading: Aynalıkavak Palace
Insider Trading: Terkos Passage
Insider Trading: Atatürk Arboretum
Insider Trading: Istanbul Military Museum (Askerî Müze) in Harbiye

Travel

Some of the best advice we can give is that living in the city requires a bit of travel every now and then. Fortunately, Istanbul has seemingly every type of destination available with just a little bit of travel time necessary. Perfect for short holidays, weekend getaways, or even just a day trip. You can see our full travel section here.

Weekend Getaway: Alaçatı
Kaş: A Journey to the Gem of the Lycian Way
Green Getaway: Polonezköy
Camel Wrestling in the Land of the Efe
Returning to Selçuk Year after Year: Camel Wrestling and Authenticity in Travel
Waymarking the Carian Trail – Part 1
Waymarking the Carian Trail – Part 2
Cappadocia: Just Go Already!
Weekend Getaway: Ayvalık
Alanya: The Mediterranean Jersey Shore
Cappadocia: A Few of My Favorite Things
Weekend Getaway: Xanthi & Thessaloniki (Part 1)
Weekend Getaway: Xanthi & Thessaloniki (Part 2)
Thermal Baths: The Ultimate Winter Holiday
Yeşilce: An Extraordinary Village with an Ordinary Name
Memnun Oldum, Antakya
Ani: A Timeless Beauty on the Edge of Turkey
Kısmet in Gaziantep
Weekend Getaway: Muğla
Weekend Getaway: 48 Hours in Sofia, Bulgaria
Rouketopolemos: Greek Easter in Chios, Rockets Included
Weekend Getaway: Lake Sapanca
Burgazada: Escape from the City
Weekend Getaway: Bursa
Hiking the Lycian Way: What to Pack
Magnificent Monument to Raging Narcissism: Nemrut Dağı
A Daytrip to the Black Sea
Green Getaway: Iğneada Longoz Forests National Park
Antalya Heat
Southern Excursion: Turunç
Through the Lens: Turkey’s Hidden Gem – the Southeast
Through the Lens: Anıtkabir
Weekend Getaway: Edirne
Off the Beaten Track: Nine Vacation Spots in Turkey
A Long Weekend on the Lycian Way: Kaş to Üçağız

Lost in Turkey
Rikki Roath’s column takes us to some of the most stunning, well-hidden locations in the country. A surefire way to inspire wanderlust.

Lost in Turkey: Isparta
Lost in Turkey: Nemrut Volcano
Lost in Turkey: Datça Peninsula
Lost in Turkey: Artvin Highlands
Lost in Turkey: Lake Bafa
Lost in Turkey: Antalya at Altitude
Lost in Turkey: Bozburun Peninsula
Lost in Turkey: The Küre Mountains

Who’s Doing What?

So many inspiring people working on meaningful projects. You can find a full list of our interviews here.

In Conversation with Istanbul Improv Community — The Clap
In Conversation with Hilary Sable, Founder of “Cihangir…Cool for Cats”
In Conversation with Berna Kahraman of Onbironsekiz, Turkey’s Storytelling Podcast Community
In Conversation with Sinem and Murat of The Hobbit House
In Conversation with Burak Bener of Montag Coffee
In Conversation with Talha Kaya, Co-Founder of Indie Game Studio Kayabros
In Conversation with The Away Days
In Conversation with HICCUP, Istanbul Electronic Music Pioneers
In Conversation with Teymour Ashkan, Founder of Istanbul&I
In Conversation with Sandrine Ramboux, Founder of C@rma
In Conversation with Sami Hamid, Director of VR First Bahçeşehir
In Conversation with Luke Frostick and Thomas Parker, Editors of the Bosphorus Review of Books
In Conversation with Janelle Berberoglu, Co-Founder of Chikirina
In Conversation with Moritz Marwein, Co-Founder of JÜS
In Conversation with Anne Solhaug Tutar, founder of Natura by Anne
In Conversation with Senem Tüzen, Director of Ana Yurdu (Motherland)
In Conversation with Aslı Akbay of Take Me Up the Bosphorus
In Conversation with Omar Berakdar of Arthere
In Conversation with Banu Uğural, Artist and Expert in Upcycling
In Conversation with Vahid Evazzadeh, Theater Director and Filmmaker

ATÖLYE Spotlight
As we’re based out of the creative community ATÖLYE, we have the opportunity to learn a lot about the impressive projects taking place all around us.

ATÖLYE Spotlight: In Conversation with Jak Akdemir, Remote Engineer for Tumblr
ATÖLYE Spotlight: In Conversation with Funda Küçükyılmaz, Account Manager of Flint
ATÖLYE Spotlight: In Conversation with Carla Lemgruber, Design Consultant & Freelancer
ATÖLYE Spotlight: In Conversation with Tolga Dizmen, Head of Culture and Operations
ATÖLYE Spotlight: In Conversation with Emre Erbirer, Communications Coordinator
ATÖLYE Spotlight: In Conversation with Lesia Petrovska, Interior Architect
ATÖLYE Spotlight: In Conversation with Oki Kasajima, Freelance Designer
ATÖLYE Spotlight: In Conversation with Çiçek Kahraman, Co-Founder of UKA Film
ATÖLYE Spotlight: In Conversation with Meltem Şahin, Illustrator, Animator and Educator
ATÖLYE Spotlight: In Conversation with Zeynep Şen, Writer, Translator and Literary Agent
ATÖLYE Spotlight: In Conversation with Ayşe Esin Durmaz, Makerlab Associate
ATÖLYE Spotlight: In Conversation with Bala Gürcan, Communications Associate & Medium Project Lead
ATÖLYE Spotlight: In Conversation with Ece Altunmaral and Edipcan Yıldız of reflect
ATÖLYE Spotlight: In Conversation with İpek Yeğinsü, Contemporary Art Professional
ATÖLYE Spotlight: In Conversation with Anita Tee, Founder of Fact vs Fitness
ATÖLYE Spotlight: In Conversation with Duygu Şar and Bilgehan Çelik, Co-Founders of Biz Evde Yokuz
ATÖLYE Spotlight: In Conversation with İnci Yürekli, Founder of Alfa Beslenme
ATÖLYE Spotlight: In Conversation with Ashkan Rohani, Chartered Civil Engineer
ATÖLYE Spotlight: In Conversation with Michael Barngrover, VR Developer
ATÖLYE Spotlight: In Conversation with Aysu Güneş, Legal Advisor
ATÖLYE Spotlight: In Conversation with Öykü Özgencil, Founder of INCOMPLIT
ATÖLYE Spotlight: In Conversation with Claire Guillon, Digital Strategy Consultant
ATÖLYE Spotlight: In Conversation with Zeynep Gürsoy, Founder of Tara Folks
ATÖLYE Spotlight: In Conversation with Ece Çiftçi – Illustrator & Graphic Designer

Student Life

University life in Istanbul is a fun, one-of-a-kind experience. If you’re interested in being a student representative, you can always drop us an e-mail to student@yabangee.com.

University Guide: Yıldız Technical University
University Guide: Istanbul Şehir University
University Guide: Bahçeşehir University (BAU)
University Guide: Sabancı University
University Guide: Bilgi University
University Guide: Istanbul University
University Guide: Boğaziçi University
8 Tips to Live in Istanbul on a Student Budget
University Guide: Istanbul Technical University

Just for fun!

What’s the point of all this work if we can’t get creative (or sarcastic) and have a little fun as well?

The Many Cat Personalities of Istanbul
Tackling Turkish Tinder: 15 First Dates
Çays & Guys (Part 1): Exploring Winter Drinks and Online Dating…
More Çays, More Guys (2): Exploring Online Dating & Winter Drinks…
A Guide to Correctly Queuing in Istanbul
Look Familiar? Five Movies Set in Istanbul
10 podcasts to help you beat the Istanbul commute
How to Survive the Metrobüs Experience in Istanbul
The Season of the Witch: Spooky Istanbul Explorations and the Hunt for Haunted October
The Personalities of Six Istanbul Neighborhoods
Ten Great Podcasts For Your Istanbul Commute
The Peculiar Case of the Cult of the Renault 12
The Art of Nothing in Istanbul

And finally, for anyone considering leaving this city… we must emphasize there are at least 166 Reasons Not to Leave Istanbul.

As we’re constantly generating content, growing our team, and exploring all that’s on offer in Turkey, you can expect this list to change over time. If you’d be interested in getting involved, drop us an e-mail to editor@yabangee.com.

What you’ll need

There are a few documents you should have ready when you start the process of connecting the utilities. These include:

• ID (residence/work permit, passport)
• DASK policy copy – this proves compulsory earthquake insurance is in place and should be obtained from the property owner
• title deed (tapu)/rental contract copy
• meter numbers – to ensure you’re connecting the right address; these can be obtained from the utility bills of previous occupants or by taking photos of the meters
• statement of registered residence (Yerleşim Yeri ve Diğer Adres Belgesi) – this can be obtained by registering at your local population office (İlçe Nüfus Müdürlüğü) with your ID and title deed/rental contract and should be your first task on getting the keys

Editor’s Note: Actually, you should do this after you open your utility accounts. In 2026, most Population Offices (Nüfus Müdürlüğü) will ask to see a utility bill in your name before they allow you to register your address.

• money for security deposits – these can be paid by installments added to your subsequent bills for electricity and gas accounts, but for water must be paid at the time of connection (current amounts can be found on the websites mentioned below)

Editor’s Note: Don’t forget your Turkish Tax Number. Even if you only have a passport, you must get this number online first, because utility companies cannot create an account without it.

It’s possible you won’t be asked to show all of the documents listed, but be prepared to provide them.

Connecting in person

Visiting the offices of each utility company is probably the most straight-forward way to get your accounts set up, although it will involve a bit of traipsing around. There are specific branches where you can open new accounts, and you need to go to the correct one based on the location of your property.  You can find the office addresses at the respective utility company websites:

• CK Enerji Boğaziçi Elektrik (European side) / Enerjisa (Asian side) for electricity
• IGDAŞ (gas)
• ISKI (water)

Look for links to “abonelik işlemleri” on these sites for details of the process to open an account and documents/deposits required. Note that the English version of these sites often isn’t the full version – if you can’t find the information you’re looking for, try the Turkish language site (with the aid of a web browser translation extension, if necessary).

Once you know the locations, you’ll need to visit each office with your documentation in hand. Normally you take a ticket from a self-service kiosk (again, look for “abonelik işlemleri” or similar – if you’re uncertain, there is often a security guard nearby who can help) then wait your turn to see a customer service officer.

Useful phrases in Turkish

If you don’t speak Turkish and can’t find a Turkish speaker to assist, you may find the following phrases helpful (plug them into Google Translate to hear the pronunciation, if you need):

• Yeni eve taşındım: I’ve moved to a new house
• Kiracıyım: I am a tenant
• Yeni başvuru yapmak istiyorum: I would like to make a new (account) application
• Ingilizce bilen var mı?: Is there anyone who speaks English?

All going well, you’ll sign the contracts (check your details have been entered correctly) and the connections will be open virtually immediately, with a meter reader being sent to the property to do a final reading for the previous account holders (if any) within a couple of days. They may need to physically re-open the lines at the property if there has not been an active account recently; so be aware that there could be delays in this scenario.

Note that a new gas account requires a safety inspection of the kombi boiler system and any related appliances. The account holder needs to be present at the property to provide access for this, and it will occur within a few days of registering. The date/time for the appointment is notified in advance by text message to the mobile phone number you provide.

Online connection

It is also possible to arrange utilities connection online. This will save you the trouble of going to each of the individual company offices – but you will need to be present at the property to sign contracts and hand over the required documents, as well as provide access for the compliance inspection, if you are having the gas connected.  Remember that the online systems may not have English versions, so you might need the help of a Turkish speaker or an automatic translation extension in your web browser.

To use the online services for utility companies, you’ll need to register with your Turkish identity number (T.C. Kimlik numarası) – for foreigners, this 11-digit number begins with “99” and can be found on your residence/work permit.  Alternatively, you may be able to log in with e-Devlet, the online government gateway, or via Internet banking (with Turkish banks). Look for links to “online işlemler” or “e-şube” at the websites listed previously.

Note: The e-Devlet system now allows you to open new connections from a central point, via links to the utility companies at “Istanbul Belediyeleri“! Once you’re on a company page, look for the “abonelik başvurusu” option.

Editor’s Note: While e-Devlet is useful, it often has glitches for foreigners using the system for the first time. Going to the office in person is still the most reliable way to ensure your documents are accepted without error.

Once you’ve set up your online account(s), you will be able to apply for a new connection by entering your details and address. Within the next couple of weeks, an officer from the utility company will visit your home to collect your documents and have you sign a contract. For a gas connection, you will be able to choose a time for the inspection.

Things to keep in mind

If there are existing utility accounts at the property from previous occupants, you will not be able to arrange new connections online. You will need to visit the offices in person and provide proof of registration from the population office along with your rental contract/deed – this shows that you have the right to open new accounts at the address. Note that if there are any unpaid bills/charges from those previous accounts, you may be required to pay them before your new account can be opened. For this reason, it’s best to check the status of any existing accounts as soon as you have access to the property so that you can make sure they are paid by the previous occupants and not you! Editor’s Note: Legally, you are not responsible for the previous tenant’s debts. If an officer asks you to pay them, show your rental contract to prove you just moved in; they are required to open your new account regardless of the old balance.

If you are moving from one place to another, you can arrange disconnections for your previous property at the same time as you connect the new one. But note that your old deposits will be refunded separately (to your nominated bank account or via post office collection) which can take at least a week.

Moving into a newly-built place, you may find that there is no gas meter installed – bring this up with the landlord, as it is their responsibility to cover the associated costs.

Finally, know that this is not as difficult as it might sound and you’re following in the footsteps of many a yabancı before you. You do not need to pay anyone to do this for you and be aware that you may be overcharged for such a service. Head over to the Yabangee Facebook community if you need a hand!

This article was originally published in 2020 and updated May of 2025.

In Türkiye, family is not something you grow out of. It is something you carry with you. There is a strong sense of loyalty, responsibility, and respect, especially toward parents. For many people, staying closely connected is not a choice, it is simply the way life is structured.

If you come from a culture where independence is more central, this can feel confusing at first. You may find yourself asking questions you never thought you would ask in a relationship. Why does his mother call every day? Why does he feel the need to inform his family about our plans? Why does it sometimes feel like I am sharing this relationship with more people than I expected?

The answers are not always about you. In many cases, your partner is not choosing his family over you. He is trying to hold both worlds at the same time. The family he comes from, and the relationship he is building with you.

I often see this tension clearly in my sessions with foreign clients living in Türkiye. One client, who had moved to Istanbul for her relationship, once told me, “I feel like I am in a relationship with three people, not one.” What she meant was not hostility from the family, but the constant presence of them. Daily calls, shared decisions, unspoken expectations. Nothing dramatic on its own, but together, it created a feeling of not having a private space as a couple.

In another session, a client described how even small plans felt “public.” She and her partner were discussing a weekend trip, and before they could finalize anything, he said he needed to check with his parents. She laughed when she told me the story, but then she added, “I don’t even know where I stand in these decisions.” That moment was not about the trip. It was about position, about emotional priority.

This is where things start to become more nuanced. Because not every form of closeness is the same, and not every family dynamic is healthy by default.

It is important to say this clearly. There is no single “Turkish family model.” Dynamics can change a lot depending on the region, the level of education, whether the family is more traditional or more modern, and even whether they live in a big city like Istanbul or in a smaller town. Some families are very involved in every detail. Others are more distant and give more space. So what you experience will always be specific to the person you are with.

Still, there are some patterns that many foreign partners recognize over time.

For example, it is quite common for families to expect regular contact. A quick call every day or every few days is not unusual. From the outside, this may look excessive. But from inside the culture, it is often interpreted as care and connection.

There are also more subtle moments. A mother who comments on what you cook, how often you visit, or how you organize your time. A family dinner where certain expectations are unspoken but clearly felt. These are not always direct conflicts, but they can create a quiet pressure over time.

None of these examples automatically mean that the family is trying to control the relationship. But they do show how easily boundaries can become blurred if they are not consciously defined.

This is usually where the real tension begins. Not in big dramatic moments, but in small, repeated experiences where you feel that your relationship does not fully belong to you.

At this point, many people react in one of two ways. They either withdraw and stay silent, trying not to create conflict, or they push back strongly and frame the situation as “your family versus me.” Neither of these approaches tends to work well in the long run.

What often helps more is stepping back for a moment and understanding the emotional structure behind what you are experiencing.

In many Turkish families, closeness is expressed through involvement. Being present, asking questions, giving opinions, sometimes even interfering. These behaviors are not always meant to limit you. They are often ways of staying connected.

At the same time, a relationship needs its own space to grow. Without that space, it becomes difficult to build trust, intimacy, and a shared identity as a couple.

This is why communication with your partner becomes central. Not as a confrontation, but as a conversation.

Instead of saying, “Your family is too involved,” you might say, “Sometimes I feel like we don’t have enough space just for us, and that makes me feel disconnected.” This kind of language keeps the focus on your experience, rather than turning it into a criticism of his background.

It is also important to understand that your partner may not immediately see the issue in the same way you do. If he grew up in a system where this level of involvement is normal, he may not even question it. Change, in this context, is not about rejecting his family. It is about slowly redefining the boundaries of the relationship.

And this takes time.

In some cases, you may find a natural balance. The family remains important, but the relationship starts to have its own space. In other cases, the boundaries may stay unclear, and that is something you need to see honestly.

Because there is a difference between a partner who is connected to his family and a partner who is unable to separate from it.

This distinction matters more than anything else.

Being part of a culture where family is central can be deeply meaningful. There is warmth, support, and a sense of belonging that many people value. But a relationship can only become strong when two people are also able to choose each other, not only emotionally, but in the way they build their life.

If you are navigating this as a foreign partner, you are not only learning about another culture. You are also discovering your own limits, your own needs, and what partnership means to you in a real, everyday sense.

And somewhere in that process, the question becomes less about “his family or me,” and more about “can we create something that belongs to us, while still respecting where we both come from?”

In my next piece, I will explore the other side of this experience. Because beyond the challenges, there is also a different layer to Turkish family life, one that many people only begin to see after they find their place within it.