Your Epidermis is Showing!!

It's been a long time!

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea "The Honest Esthetician" Stodola) — Tue, 11 Jan 2011 18:43:00 +0000

I have been seriously remiss about keeping up with the blogging! Several new things have happened since I have last written. I have had a beautiful baby boy named Bennett and Essential Skin & Beauty is expanding!

We are moving to a new location right on York in March and are super excited to offer new services and a new experience! We are currently on the hunt for a super star massage therapist that wants to help develop a menu of services that will be just as outstanding as our waxing, facial treatments and makeup services.

Our new location will give us the ability to host spa parties, group appointments, workshops and more! Stay tuned for more information and special grand opening deals!

Women are difficult; Men are easy

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea "The Honest Esthetician" Stodola) — Thu, 15 Oct 2009 22:54:00 +0000

Now, before I get some angry comments from all the ladies out there, let me clarify. I am talking about men's approach to the care of their skin.

When a male client comes to see me for a facial it is usually to address a specific concern that they (or the women in their lives) have, whether it be acne, wrinkles, sun damage, redness, etc. They see a problem that needs to be fixed. Therefore, when I present them with a solution, i.e. a simple skincare routine, they tend to follow it, no questions asked. See, easy.

Working with my female clients tends to be a little more involved. Most women are very skeptical of any new product I set in front of them. I don't really blame them. I mean, everyday women are bombarded with advertising for the latest and greatest skin care product promising to keep us young forever. Most of this is a bunch of hooey (yes, I just used the word hooey) so it is no wonder women get a little skittish. We buy tons of products, just to have them sit on our shelves collecting dust, or we use the same products we have been using since we were teenagers. Either way you can miss out on the great advances in skin care!

This is why it is so important to not only find an esthetician you trust, but also become very educated on ingredients, labels, claims, etc. You also have to be in tune with your skin and what is considered normal. Is it normal for your face to swell up like a tomato? No. Is it normal to maybe have a breakout, tingling, a little redness when starting a completely new skin care routine? Maybe. It depends on the product, what you were using before, your stress level, etc.

Think of it this way. If you sat on the couch for a year and then one day decided to get up off the couch and do an hour long kickboxing workout your body would not be too happy. Especially the next day. Yes, the exercise is good for you, but your body needs time to adjust to the change. Your skin works in the same way. You have to give your products a chance to work. In many cases it can take 3 months or more for the skin to change. This is another reason why (most) men are easy. Once they get on a routine, they are consistent and they stick it out.

This is the main reason why I get better results with my male clients! Many women give up too soon!

Say you have been working out consistently for 3 months and your body has changed, but the results have slowed. What do you do now? Well any good trainer will tell you that you have to switch up your routine to keep your body challenged. Your skin is no different. It adapts just like the rest of your body, so sometimes you need to give it a little boost. Many of my male clients will implement a change readily (as long as it doesn't involve too many steps!). This is where my female clients get freaked. You think I was telling them to give up their first born child! Once women get attached to a product it can be very difficult to get them to change.

Repeat after me: Change is good.

Embrace it! You may be pleasantly surprised at the outcome!

Remember, you are not married to your products. It is not considered cheating if you try a new product. There are no attorneys or divorce settlements to work out. Your products will not resent you or call you names. I promise. If they do, I think that you have slightly bigger problems that the right skin care regime!

Until next time!

All New Shopping Site!!

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea "The Honest Esthetician" Stodola) — Wed, 05 Aug 2009 20:06:00 +0000

Essential Skin & Beauty now has a new and improved shopping site!

www.esbstudiostore.com

Feel free to have a look around.
When you are ready to order follow these simple steps

Click on the Ordering Information Page
Fill out the Skin Consultation Questionnaire

You will receive your personalized skin care recommendations and password via email.

*note - you will not be able to access any pricing or order any products until you complete the Skin Consultation. THIS IS NOT OPTIONAL! The products sold on this site are professional products with a much higher concentration of active ingredients than drugstore or department store brands and require a professional recommendation. ESB reserves the right to deny the order of any product deemed inappropriate for the individuals skin. If you have any questions feel free to call Andrea at sales@essentialskinandbeauty.com or call (630) 832-7546.

Checkout
You can pay by credit card with Paypal Payment Standard. YOU DO NOT NEED A PAYPAL ACCOUNT! To proceed to the payment screen hit "submit your order" and hit the button on the left marked "continue" to pay with any major credit card. If you do want to pay with PAYPAL just log into your account on the right.

Please be patient with me. I am still working out the kinks!

Longer Hours on Thurdays!

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea "The Honest Esthetician" Stodola) — Tue, 30 Jun 2009 20:56:00 +0000

Starting July 9th Essential Skin and Beauty will be open from 9-5 on Thursdays!
If you need to book an appointment please go to
www.essentialskinandbeauty.com for the full menu and links to book online.

Want to book now? Press the button below!

Beautiful skin starts on the inside

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea "The Honest Esthetician" Stodola) — Sat, 02 May 2009 15:16:00 +0000

So, you have tried every product known to man and your skin is still breaking out, looking old, inflamed beyond belief, etc. You have been diligent in your skin care routine (recommended to you by your professional esthetician or dermatologist) for at least 3 months and you still haven't seen a significant improvement in your skin.

"That's it!" you exclaim "These products don't work!" You proceed to throw those lovely products into the trash and move onto the next skin care product that promises clear, beautiful skin.

STOP!!!

Did you ever think that maybe it is not the products' fault?
Think about it. Topical products do just that, work on the outside of the skin. These products are fantastic for working on superficial problems, like blackheads, pimples, fine lines, and some pigmentation, but are not going to be nearly that effective on problems that arise on the skin from internal imbalance and inflammation. Most commonly, things like cystic acne, inflammation and some rosacea, have some sort of internal cause and therefore, topical treatments will have very little effect. It's like trying to cure a headache by rubbing an aspirin on your temples instead of swallowing it. It's not going to cut it!

Internal Cause

1. Hormones and Stress
Most women have experienced what a change in hormones can do to your skin when your monthly visitor come to town, but the story does not end there. Starting or stopping birth control, pregnancy, menopause and hormone replacement therapy can all leave your skin looking less than perfect.

During times of stress, both men and women produce more norepinephrine, epinephrine and testosterone which can exacerbate skin conditions like acne. Stress can also lead to the overproduction of cortisol, a steroid, which, like testosterone, can increase the production of oil in the skin. All this stress can also lead to an increase in the inflammatory response of the skin which can trigger flare-ups of rosacea and acne.

Yet another reason to see your local skin care therapist for a relaxing facial!

My recommendation: get on a consistent skin care routine with regular facials and see your doctor if it is more that the occasional breakout. He or she can do a hormone check and see if something is out of balance. Plus, take some time to relax and relieve some stress. Read a book, exercise, get a facial or a massage, or anything that makes you feel more Zen!

2. Diet - You are what you eat

Do you think that just because you put high quality product on your skin that it cancels out the steady stream of cheeseburgers, fries and candy that you put into your body? Guess again! Yes, there are those freaks of nature out there that can eat whatever they want and their skin never breaks out, but chances are, if you have tried every topical treatment available and your skin still looks like crap, you aren't one of them.

A clean diet will help you on your way to clearer skin. Our bodies were not designed to process ingredients like High Fructose Corn syrup, enriched flour, trans-fats, and artificial colors. These foods were artificially engineered or altered, not recognized by our bodies and hard to process. This internal turmoil leads to more stress, which leads to more inflammation, which leads to those pesky breakout mentioned before.

Don't put it in your mouth if:

You can't grow it in your backyard
You can't read the ingredient deck without a chemistry degree
You couldn't make it yourself without the help of a nuclear reactor
You can't tell what ingredients are in the product unless you read the label ("There's apples in this?")
The ingredient deck is longer than your arm

Eating a clean diet will help your body to function better, therefore leading to healthier skin.

If you have cleaned up your diet and your skin still hasn't cleared than you may want to see if you have a food allergy, intolerance or a deficiency that may be causing an imbalance.

3. Disease and infection

Obviously, if you have some sort of illness you are probably not going to look your best. See your doctor!

Hopefully, this post gives you a little insight into the other reasons why your skin is not looking it's best.

Remember: Don't blame your fabulous products and shun them for something that isn't their fault!

Till next time!
Andrea

Organic Labeling. What does it mean?

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea "The Honest Esthetician" Stodola) — Wed, 04 Mar 2009 20:14:00 +0000

Organic skin care is all the rage right now, but what exactly does "organic" mean when it is on a cosmetic label?

EDIT: All the following are the USDA requirements for FOOD. Currently there are NO regulations for the term "organic" for personal care products. A company can submit for the USDA seal if they wish and must follow the below requirements, but it is NOT mandatory. So any company can use the word organic even if the ingredients are not certified.

Image carries a line called Ormedic, made with organic ingredients. The company states that the line is 75% organic. I know that Image is a reputable line and holds it's products to the highest standards, so I trust their information. This may not be true for some of the companies out there, so all I can say is DO YOUR RESEARCH!!

This info is handy to know even though a lot does not pertain to skin care.

According to the USDA National Organic Program there are several guidelines companies have to follow when labeling their products.

100% Organic
In order for a product to make this claim it must contain 100% organically produced ingredients, with the exception of any added salt and water.

The labels MUST show below the name and address of the handler (bottler, distributor,
importer, manufacturer, packer, processor, etc.) of the finished
product, the statement:
"Certified organic by ____" or similar phrase, followed by the name of
the Certifying Agent. Certifying Agent seals may not be used to satisfy
this requirement.

Organic
These products must be made with at least 95% organically produced ingredients and cannot contain sulfites.
The other 5% can be comprised of non organically produced agricultural ingredients which are NOT commercially available in organic form (including: kelp, cornstarch, lecithin, pectin and gums) and/or other permitted ingredients like added minerals, acids and some synthetic ingredients. (Click here if you would like the full list.)
The label must also use the word "organic" before the ingredients on the list. As with 100% organic, the label must also include the processor and the "certified organic" statement.

Made with Organic Ingredients.
These products must contain 70% organic ingredients with no added sulfites (except for wine).
The product can also contain 30% off the above non organically grown and synthetics listed above with the addition of yeast.
These products CANNOT carry the USDA certified organic seal

Now here is where things get confusing!

To claim a product has some organic ingredients
These products may contain less than 70% organic and may contain more than 30% inorganic ingredients. The product must list the organic ingredients on the ingredient deck only if the percentage is listed in the ingredient statement, but cannot include the processors "certified organic" statement or seal, or the USDA seal.
The product also cannot make any other claims of "organic" on the front display label.

So if the product claims to have 50% organic ingredients, the ingredient deck must list the organic ingredients with the word "organic". No percentage on the front, no need to list the organic ingredients on the back. This is where you would have to ask the company how much of their product is organic.

Coming Soon: Custom Blend Mineral Makeup

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea "The Honest Esthetician" Stodola) — Tue, 17 Feb 2009 17:56:00 +0000

Are you having trouble finding the perfect foundation or eye shadow color? Tired of finding a color you love and then having it discontinued? Have no fear Custom Blending is coming soon!

I am going to start custom blending Mineral Foundations, Blushes and Eye Shadows at Essential Skin & Beauty! This is a great way to match your skin tone perfectly.

How it works:
On your initial visit you will come in for a formulation. This is where the formula is matched to your skin and adjusted for your specific needs. Do you need Sheer or Full Coverage, Matte or Shimmer, Oil Controlling? All this can be adjusted during the formulation. This visit will take approximately 30 minutes and cost will depend on type of product.

Need a refill? Enjoy a reduced refill price. Bring back your old container for even more savings!

Need an adjustment on your color for summer or winter? For a small fee your original formulation can be adjusted when your skin changes with the seasons!

Watch for more information on pricing coming soon.

For those of you currently using Everyday Minerals: I am discontinuing this line. Please contact me at sales@essentialskinandbeauty.com if you would like to purchase anything from my remaining inventory.

Please help bail me out!

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea "The Honest Esthetician" Stodola) — Tue, 03 Feb 2009 13:48:00 +0000

I have been arrested!!

I NEED YOUR HELP!

I'm going behind bars for "GOOD"
PLEASE HELP BAIL ME OUT!

Click Here

Your donation is my key to freedom! Be proud of the fact that together we're providing help and hope to kids and adults served by MDA in our community.

Francesca Amici's in Elmhurst is sponsoring this event for the Muscular Dystrophy Association a.k.a. "Jerry's Kids".

Everyone that donates will be entered into a drawing for a
$100 Gift Certificate
for services at Essential Skin & Beauty in Elmhurst (alternate price for those that are not in the area)

Your donations helps:

$85 -Fund One Minute of Research
$100 - Support Group Session
$800 - Send one child to MDA Summer Camp
$2,000 - Assist with Wheelchair or Leg Braces

Be confident in your donation!!

MDA is funded almost entirely by individual, private voluntary contributions.

MDA seeks no fees from those it serves.

MDA dedicates 78.4 cents of every dollar it spends directly to program services.

You may view the MDA Annual Report online for more information.

Basic Information About MDA

The Muscular Dystrophy Association is a voluntary health agency working to defeat muscular dystrophy and related diseases through programs of worldwide research, comprehensive services, and far-reaching professional and public health education.

MDA is the largest nongovernmental sponsor of neuromuscular disease research.

More than one million Americans are affected by muscular dystrophy and related diseases. About 250,000 have some form of muscular dystrophy.

Included in the more than 40 neuromuscular diseases covered by MDA are nine forms of muscular dystrophy, amyotrophic lateral sclerosis (ALS or Lou Gehrig's disease), myasthenia gravis, spinal muscular atrophy, Charcot-Marie-Tooth disease and others.

MDA is the first nonprofit agency to be recognized by the American Medical Association with a Lifetime Achievement Award for "significant and lasting contributions to the health and welfare of humanity."

MDA was founded in 1950 and awarded its first research grant to Dr. Ade Milhorat, a pioneer of modern muscular dystrophy research.

Services

MDA sends almost 4,000 kids with muscular dystrophy and related diseases to MDA summer camps each year, at cost to MDA of $800 per camper. There's no charge to families.

Tens of thousands of people affected by muscular dystrophy and diseases visit MDA's 225 hospital-affiliated clinics and 38 MDA/ALS centers every year.

MDA awards research grants to some 400 teams of scientists and physicians worldwide.

The Association also:

helps buy and repair wheelchairs, leg braces and augmentative communication devices;
facilitates meetings of some 240 MDA support groups;
provides thousands of free flu vaccines to those affected by neuromuscular diseases;
conducts an ongoing public education program through its Web sites, publications, videos, seminars and media placements;
and sponsors professional education programs for MDA clinic directors and those they serve.

Community Programs

MDA's 200-plus local offices across the country are a valuable support system, and provide practical information and essential services for people with neuromuscular diseases.

The MDA Art Collection was established in 1992 to focus attention on the creative abilities of individuals with disabilities. The collection includes more than 350 works by adult artists and children, all of whom are affected by neuromuscular diseases.

MDA's National Task Force on Public Awareness serves to advise the Association about issues of interest and importance to people with disabilities. The group consists of adults who are leaders in their communities and are affected by neuromuscular diseases in MDA's program.

Entertainer Jerry Lewis serves as MDA National Chairman and star of the MDA Labor Day Telethon.

Popular singer Billy Gilman is MDA's National Youth Chairman. He spearheads the efforts of teens and young adults who help MDA.

Abbey Umali, 9 , of Redlands, Calif., is MDA's National Goodwill Ambassador. She has a form of Charcot-Marie-Tooth disease.

Augie and Lynne Nieto of Corona del Mar, Calif., are chairpersons of MDA's ALS Division. Augie, 50, has amyotrophic lateral sclerosis, or Lou Gehrig's disease. He was co-founder of Life Fitness and is now chairman of Octane Fitness.

Tom Bush of Oro Valley, Ariz., has been named the recipient of the Muscular Dystrophy Association's 2009 Robert Ross National Personal Achievement Award. The award is named in honor of Robert Ross, MDA's longtime chief executive, who died in June 2006. The awards are part of MDA's program for recognizing the achievements and community service of people across the nation who are affected by neuromuscular diseases. Bush, who had a 30-year career with the state of New Jersey, worked as the director of the Office of Disabilities Management before retiring in 1993. He started a second career at MDA's national headquarters in Tucson, working to develop the Association's national Web site. Along the way, he's been a leader with MDA and served on the Tucson MDA Task Force on Public Awareness and worked with the MDA National Task Force on Public Awareness. He also has made several appearances on the national broadcast of the Jerry Lewis MDA Labor Day Telethon.

Jerry Lewis MDA Telethon

The first Telethon was held in June 1955 at Carnegie Hall in New York. The 16 1/2-hour show raised $600,000 for MDA and was broadcast on DuMont station WABD.

The first-ever Telethon held on Labor Day weekend, broadcast in 1966 by just one station in New York City, was the first televised fundraising event of its kind to raise more than $1 million in pledges.

Some 250,000 volunteers across the country will be involved in the Telethon each Labor Day weekend.

The 2008 Jerry Lewis MDA Telethon was the 43rd annual show in the Labor Day weekend series. It was broadcast on some 190 "Love Network" stations across the country and was seen on the Internet at www.mda.org.

The MDA Telethon has been held on Labor Day weekend since 1966.

Ed McMahon is the anchor of the Telethon, and 2008 was his 42nd Telethon.

No tickets are available to see the national Telethon live. We wish it were otherwise, but the best seat in the house is often right in front of your television screen.

Jerry Lewis and Celebrities

Jerry Lewis receives no pay for his tireless year-round work for MDA. He is MDA's "number-one volunteer" and star of the Telethon.

Other celebrities serve as Telethon co-hosts and performers. None of the celebrities on the Telethon receive any pay for their efforts.

No one knows why Jerry Lewis, MDA's number-one volunteer, chooses to devote so much time to helping people with neuromuscular diseases. He feels it isn't important why he's involved; rather, it's important that he's involved.

Click here to donate!!

Essential Skin and Beauty is Moving!!

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea "The Honest Esthetician" Stodola) — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 16:04:00 +0000

I have decided to move from my cramped quarters to a larger location!!

The move is happening February 1st and is only 2 1/2 blocks from my old location in Downtown Elmhurst.

Don't forget to visit for all your Facial, Waxing and Makeup needs!

New Location:
116 South York
Suite 106
Elmhurst, IL 60126

Also, don't forget to update your mailing address and email to keep getting special offers and promotions!!

Sign up for email promotions or update your address by emailing me at: sales@essentialskinandbeauty.com

Thank you Dr. Oz and Oprah!!

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea "The Honest Esthetician" Stodola) — Wed, 12 Nov 2008 01:30:00 +0000

Finally, some detailed info on what to look for in skincare products and the role that nutrition, diet and stress play in the health of our skin. The only problem I had with the program was the inclusion of Paula Begoun. She tauts herself as a "skin care expert", but as far as I can tell she is a former makeup artist and not an esthetician, physician or nurse. I won't go into my problems with her recommendations but there is an interesting review of her book on e-opinions which I tend to agree.

Dr. Oz and Dr. Susan Evans speak to the benefits of antioxidants, niacin, alpha hydroxy acids and sunscreens for maintaining the skin. They also analyzed the skin using a uv and polarized light machine to reveal the true damage underneath the skin. I use a similar device in my studio, although I cannot take a picture to show my clients the results (hopefully someday soon though!).

If you didn't have the chance to see the show go to oprah.com for more detailed info about the show.

Till next time!

Stop Wasting Your Money.... Mary Kay

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea "The Honest Esthetician" Stodola) — Thu, 06 Nov 2008 15:57:00 +0000

Times are tough.

With that being said, I thought I would spend a little time blogging about how you can get more bang for your buck, regarding your skin care products.

Being an esthetician for almost 5 years, I have many of my customers tauting the wonders of Mary Kay products. Some of them sell the products themselves, others have friends or other representatives selling to them. Listen to me very carefully: YOU ARE WASTING YOUR MONEY!! Even I was surprised and how bare the ingredient decks are!

Now if you want a product that looks pretty, smells nice and feels rich and creamy, by all means keep using Mary Kay and stop reading this blog now. If you want the TRUTH about the Mary Kay ingredients and their effectiveness please keep reading.

STEP 1. Ingredients.
Let me tell you, finding Mary Kay's ingredient decks online is no easy task. The company does not list the ingredients on their websites (which should be a huge red flag, especially for such a large company!). I mean, how are you supposed to know if something works if you can't see the ingredients? I understand the need to protect proprietary formulas, but at least give us a hint at what is in the product. I did manage to find a couple listings of the ingredient decks taken straight from the box on an independent site. Below are the ingredient decks with the function of each ingredient plus any known cancer, allergen or irritant risks. I highlighted any ingredient with a moderate to high risk for irritation and cancer and I did not include any cancer risks that were found in vitro. All ingredients were found at the cosmetics database.

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
CANCER,
Possible Irritant
FILLER, BULKING AGENTS ETC

Mary Kay® TimeWise® Age-Fighting Moisturizer

Description (as written on the box): Suitable for sensitive skin. Oil- and fragrance-free. Non-comedogenic. Timewise® Age-Fighting Moistuirizer firms, softens and reduces the appearance of fine lines. Proven to hydrate for up to 10 hours.

NORMAL TO DRY

Ingredients: Water, glycerin (humectant), C12-15 alkyl benzoate (emolient, anti microbial) , cettearyl alcohol (surfactant, foam enhancer), isostearyl alcohol (emolient, viscocity increasing agent), triethanolamine (ph adjuster, CANCER, TOXIC) hydrogenated lecithin (surfactant, emulsifying agent), behenyl alcohol (Binder; Emulsion Stabilizer; Viscosity Increasing Agent), propylene glycol (Fragrance Ingredient; Humectant, CANCER, possible IRRITANT)
dimethicone (Occlusive; Skin Protectant), bis-diglyceryl polyacladipate-2(Emollient), ceteareth-20 (Cleansing Agent; Surfactant, Organ system toxicity especially in products used around eyes, mouth, or lips), linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloridephosphate (anti-static agent), silica (Abrasive; Absorbent; Anticaking Agent; Bulking Agent; Opacifying Agent; Suspending Agent), carbomer (stabilizer), diazolidinyl urea (preservative, CANCER, HUMAN SKIN TOXICANT), lauramine oxide (fragrance, surfactant, sense organ effects at very low doses), disodium EDTA (Chelating Agent, CANCER), betaine (humectant), glyceryl polyacrylate (film former), methylparaben (preservative, CANCER, ALLERGEN, possible IRRITANT), sodium PCA (humectant), C9-15 alkyl phosphate (cleansing agent, surfactant), tocopheryl acetate (antioxidant), sorbitol (humectant, fragrence), propylparaben (preservative, ALLERGEN), serine (amino acid), threonine (amino acid), proline (amino acid), arginine (amino acid), glycine (amino acid), alanine (amino acid), lysine (amino acid), glutamic acid (humectant), thermus themophillus ferment (I am not quite sure what this ingredient is).

Green means go and red means STOP, right?

This moisturizer will give your skin some hydration, but as far as the age-fighting capabilities, I think the Cancer causing ingredients might make that difficult. Also, any of the good ingredients, located on them bottom of the deck, are so clouded by emulsifiers, bulking agents, and emollients that they will probably never reach your skin!!

Maybe the other formula will be better.

COMBINATION TO OILY

Ingredients: Water, glycerin (humectant), isododecane (solvent, emollient), dimethicone (Occlusive; Skin Protectant), propylene glycol (Fragrance Ingredient; Humectant, CANCER, IRRITANT), betaine (humectant), ethylene/acrilic acid copolymer (binder, film former), boron nitride (absorbent), ammonium acrloyl-dimethyltaurate/VP copolymer (Viscosity Increasing Agent), PEG-12 dimethicone (Skin Conditioning agent), polyacrylamide (binder, Film Former), phenoxyethanol (preservative, sense organ effects at very low doses), C13-14 isoparaffin (emollient), lauramine oxide (fragrance, surfactant, sense organ effects at very low doses), disodium EDTA (Chelating Agent, CANCER), methylparaben (preservative, CANCER, ALLERGEN, IRRITANT), triethanolamine (ph adjuster, CANCER CAUSING, TOXIC), C9-15 alkyl phosphate (cleansing agent, surfactant), DMDM hydantoin (preservative, ALLERGEN), tocopheryl acetate (antioxidant), laureth-7 (surfactant, emulsifying agent), linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium chloride phosphate (anti-static agent), sodium PCA (humectant), sorbitol (humectant, fragrence), serine (amino acid), thermus thermophillus ferment, threonine (amino acid), proline (amino acid), arginine (amino acid), glycine (amino acid), alanine (amino acid), lysine (amino acid), glutamic acid (humectant)

Again, a few different ingredients with the same results. Oh, and it also states that it is for Sensitive skin? With all those irritants and allergens I wouldn't put it on my face!! Plus, there are 2 ingredients that are stated as being film formers. Really?!!

In comparison lets look at Osmosis' Quench Moisturizer.

Description:

This product contains natural moisturizing factors and lipids found naturally in the skin to create a light feeling, intensely hydrating, moisturizer.

Quench contains high doses of hyaluronic acid which provides a wonderful moisturizing effect. It also uses Argirilene for firming and niacinamide which is proven to help restore the skin's barrier and feed the skin with its own natural moisturizing factors.

Ingredients:
Purified Water, Shea Butter (Moisturizer, Emollient, Anti inflammatory), Niacinamide (smoothing, Circulation), Organic Jojoba oil (emollient), Cetyl Palmitate (Occlusive, emollient possible IRRITANT), Sorbitan Palmitate (Emulsifying Agent), Sorbitan Olivate (emulsifying agent), Glycerin (humectant), Hyaluronic Acid (moisturizing, humectant), Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 (Natural Argirilene)(Humectant), Cholesteryl Stearate (Liquid Crystals)(emollient), Corn Silk (skin Conditioning), Squalene (emolient), Hyaluronic Acid (humectant), L-Sodium PCA (humectant), Japanese Honeysuckle (preservative), Essential Oil Blend (preservative, natural fragrance).

Do I even need to say anything? One ingredient which may be a possible irritant. Plus the description itself states the key ingredients of the product. Impressive.

2. VALUE

Without looking at the ingredients, you might say that Mary Kay has a better price point.

TimeWise: $22 for 3.3 oz. or $6.67 / oz

Quench: $30 for 1 oz.

However you have to remember that with all the emulsifiers, binders and other assorted fillers, the few good ingredients do not reach the skin. In fact, all the potential cancer causing and irritation inducing agents are probably going to make your skin worse. Also, you have to look at how much of the product you are using in each application. I have used Mary Kay (many moons ago, before knew better). Let me tell you that I used a lot more than I use of Osmosis. Osmosis recommends 1-2 pumps of the product which will last you about 2 months.

Osmosis also contains cutting edge ingredients like Hyaluronic Acid, Cholesteryl Stearate (Liquid Crystals), Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 and Niacinamide, which are noticeably absent from the Mary Kay formula. These ingredients help not only with hydration but improvement in firmness, wrinkles and suppleness of the skin.

Now that is age fighting!

Can I interest you in a sandblasting today?

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea "The Honest Esthetician" Stodola) — Tue, 23 Sep 2008 20:50:00 +0000

That's crazy! No one in their right mind would agree to that type of treatment!

Ever had traditional Microdermabrasion?

Yes? Welcome to the world of sandblasting.

Microdermabrasion has always confused me. What skin is so bad that you have to bombard it with abrasive crystals for it to look good and remain healthy? Supporters of this treatment claim that it is an even exfoliation which can improve the appearance of wrinkles, acne scarring, and pigmentation. Okay, let's look at these claims individually.

Wrinkles

Claim: Microdermabrasion will reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles

True - Kind of
This is true in the same way that getting punched in the mouth will give you Angelina Jolie lips without the use of collagen. What happens when you get punched, or scrape yourself? You swell. The same thing happens when you over scrub your skin. It gets nice and plump, but as soon as the swelling goes down, you are right back where you started. You wouldn't go around punching yourself in the face if you wanted bigger lips, so why would you blast or rub your skin raw with microdermabrasion?

Acne Scarring

Claim: Microdermabrasion can improve the appearance of acne scarring.

Probably not

Microdermabrasion is just not effective on old acne scars. A scar is a fibrous tissue that does not have the same function as the surrounding skin. Scrubbing it really hard will not change that. It may smooth out the skin slightly, but there will not be a significant improvement.

Hyperpigmentation (Brown Spots, Sun Spots)

Claim: Microdermabrasion will help lighten brown spots.

May have some effect but NOT RECOMMENDED for darker skin types!!!

Microdermabrasion exfoliates the skin. so for superficial pigmentation it can help to lighten those pesky spots, but will have little if any effect on deeper or really dark pigmentation. If fact, microdermabrastion may make you dreaded dark spots worse!!! This is especially a concern for anyone with more pigment in his or her skin. The more color, the more chance that the skin could pigment. Even if you go into the treatment without spots you could come back out with them! The microdermabrasion can cause inflammation which can stimulate melenin production in the skin. Talk about not being worth it!

So what's a girl or guy to do?

Ultrasonic (or wet) Microdermabration

Now even thought this method sounds the same, it is very different.

An ultrasonic microdermabrasion machine is used with a wet medium on the skin so the blade (sounds scarrier than it its) never makes contact with bare skin. The blade vibrates at about 20,000 -28,000 times per second and spins water molecules on the skin, loosening dead skin without trauma or irritation.

These new machines can also kill bacteria on the surface (fantastic for acne!) and also penetrate product deeper into the skin. The result is clearer, smoother skin (even better when you do it in a series)! Who doesn't want that!

I have had an opportunity to see what these Ultrasonic Microdermabrasion machines can do and am thoroughly impressed. So much so, that I decided to purchase one for my skin care studio. It will be here by the end of the week, so if you live near Elmhurst give me a call and set up an appointment.

Essential Skin and Beauty
151 N. York St.
Suite 5N
Elmhurst, IL 60133
630-832-7546

http://www.essentialskinandbeauty.com

The evaluation of aluminum oxide crystal microdermabrasion for photodamage.

Author: Tan MH; Spencer JM; Pires LM; Ajmeri J; Skover G

Author affiliation: Department of Dermatology, Mount Sinai School of Medicine, New York University, New York, New York 10029, USA.

Publication date & source: 2001.11, Dermatol Surg, 27(11):943-9

Shop Essential Skin & Beauty

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea "The Honest Esthetician" Stodola) — Wed, 03 Sep 2008 21:17:00 +0000

Hi all!
I have a shopping site up and running. There are some great deals on Mineral Makeup going on right now! Also, if you want to keep a summer glow all year round, check out the sunless tanners.
The 3 piece kit is a great value but quantities are limited!

www.shop.essentialskinandbeauty.com

Dietary Help for Acne & Rosacea

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea "The Honest Esthetician" Stodola) — Tue, 26 Aug 2008 17:06:00 +0000

Hi all!
Here is an interesting article I received from Osmosis on help for the internal causes of acne and rosacea. Could be of great help for those suffering from these conditions. Remember: we are what we eat!!

DIETARY AND LIFESTYLE GUIDELINES FOR ROSACEA AND ACNE

Philosophy

There is still debate over whether or not diet is related to acne and/or rosacea in the medical community. The misleading aspect of this is that often no one food/food group is responsible. For example, it has been stated that chocolate may cause acne. I am sure many people have cut out chocolate and discovered that it did not really help in most cases. It is not the chocolate that is specifically related to the acne but rather a generally poor dietary pattern that exacerbates the condition. The connection is related many times to Candida overgrowth, systemic inflammation causing testosterone surges and/or hormone imbalances and an overall tendency for the system to be acidic which promotes bacteria growth and suppresses our immune system. In addition, poor dietary habits cause the lining of the digestive tract to become damaged including the loss of critical numbers of the good bacteria (normal flora). Also, we often have a difficult time absorbing nutrients and expelling toxins from our small and large bowel due to poorly digested and/or damaging foods. Why do some have problems and others with similar or worse diet/lifestyles do fine? Mostly it is their genetic makeup. We are born with an inherent ability to process and remove toxins, excess calories, etc and some people are born with “better genes” than others in that regard.

Strategies

1) Everyone should probably treat Candida because it is estimated that 80% of the population has symptoms related to Candida overgrowth.

2) While treating Candida, probiotics should be used for several months to restore the good bacteria.

3) Good vitamin and mineral supplementation is important.

4) 1-3 Colonics and maybe even one a year as maintenance is a good idea. This is especially true if you are a big meat and dairy eater.

5) Caffeine should be avoided because it vaso-constricts which starves the skin.

6) Alcohol, soft drinks and simple sugars should be avoided because they promote Candida, damage good bacteria and acidify the body.

7) Dietary strategies, besides the general categories (listed above) that should be avoided, involve better food management. Basically, you want to think about how you mix food types at meals because this will significantly help your body process the food correctly:

a. Do not combine carbohydrates/sugars with proteins at the same meal because they digest differently and will not be digested well in combination.

b. Try to avoid processed foods, artificial additives, white flour, and hydrogenated oils because they promote inflammation/acidification.

c. Do not consume excessive dairy because it is acid and mucous-forming.

d. Drink water as much as possible.

Summary

Our country is killing itself with our current dietary and lifestyle habits. Most disease, including skin diseases, are directly related to the systemic effects from our habits. We know that changing your diet is a very difficult task so following some of these protocols is better than not following any.

But the label says...

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea "The Honest Esthetician" Stodola) — Thu, 24 Jul 2008 01:13:00 +0000

I thought I would spend a couple of posts deciphering a couple of the statements made on many cosmetic labels.

The first on deck: Non-Comedogenic.

Ahh, the golden child of almost every acne product and cosmetic on the market. Place this beauty on the label to let everyone know that the ingredients will not clog pores and produce acne (note the sarcasm).
The problem with this claim is that it is not defined or regulated by the FDA. It should mean that a product or ingredient does not clog pores, but does it really? The FDA does not provide a list of comedogenic ingredients on their website but does suggest that you stay away from pore clogging ingredients. Confusing.

Since there is no official list, the FDA does not regulate the claim of non-comedogenicy. The result is that any product can make this claim without fear that the FDA will step in.
Take the following product description and ingredient list:

	Moisturizer with Dead Sea Minerals is a rich, ultra-hydrating, non-comedogenic moisturizer. Daily use helps improve skin texture and elasticity by dramatically improving skin´s ability to retain moisture. Formulated for dry to normal skin. Directions: Wash face with an AFA Cleanser. Apply Moisturizer sparingly. Use of a daily sunscreen is recommended. Store at room temperature. No animal testing.

		Ingredients: Water, Petrolatum, Cetearyl Alcohol, Purine, Acidified Amino Acid, L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Dead Sea Minerals, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Propylene Glycol, Isopropyl Palmitate, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben.

Now, this moisturizer states that it is non-comedogentic, yet one of the ingredients, Isopropyl Palmitate, is a penetrating oil which is shunned by many an esthetician (myself included) and dermatologists for it's acne inducing properties. Another ingredient to note at the top of the list is Petrolatum, or more commonly known, mineral oil. While this is not an ingredient that can physically clog a pore, it is occlusive and can trap other problematic ingredients (like isopropyl palmatate) on the skin. So, will this moisturizer cause a breakout? Maybe, maybe not. Would I go slathering it on my skin? Why risk it?

Just like everything else in life, you can't always believe what you read. While there is no official list by the FDA, you can find a great reference at Zerozits. Use this list to help you avoid the most problematic ingredients found in cosmetic products. You will be glad you did.

Base Tan Insanity

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea "The Honest Esthetician" Stodola) — Sat, 12 Jul 2008 16:32:00 +0000

I have been perusing the Internet and have actually found several articles touting the benefits of developing some "color" before going out into the sun. (Check out this doozy of an article) For me this way of thinking is tantamount to shooting yourself in the face if you have a headache. Sure, your head is no longer throbbing, but now you have a whole new set of problems.

Where did the idea of the "base" tan as a protective mechanism come from?

Many of the supporters of this idea believe that if you gradually stimulate the melanin production in the skin it will offer a natural barrier against the suns harmful rays. Technically, this is correct. Melanin is the pigment which gives skin & hair it's natural color. It also absorbs some (not all) UV rays to protect our skin from DNA damage. Therefore, darker skinned individuals have more natural protection than their pale counterparts. When fair skin is exposed to UV rays it signals the melanocytes to produce more melanin turning the skin darker to protect it from further damage. So it stands to reason that the more melanin production we stimulate, the better off we will be when we step out into the sun.

The problem with this way of thinking is the way the melanin is stimulated. Whether it is the local tanning salon or laying out in your backyard, the culprit is the same: UV rays. Plain and simple, UV rays are RADIATION! UV radiation can cause DNA damage which in turn can lead to skin cancer, premature aging, suppression of the immune system, and cataracts. (Don't believe me? Check out what the EPA has to say.) This UV damage occurs even if we don't burn. That base tan that you so carefully developed can cause just as much damage to your skin over time as one bad sunburn (remember, sun damage is cumulative). And what about the protective factor of all that melanin production? Well it equates to about an SPF of a 3 or 4, which will protect you for about as long as it take you to walk from the tanning salon to your car in the parking lot!

Basically, what I am saying is that no tan is a good tan. Any UV radiation that is causing a change in the skin's color is causing damage to the skin.

Embrace your paleness, flaunt your natural pallor, just say NO to the sun!

Well, if you can't handle blinding people in the summer with your white skin, at least use a self-tanner or bronzer. Oh, and don't forget to layer on the sunscreen after the application, since most don't contain any SPF.

Until next time!

Sunscreen Updates

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea "The Honest Esthetician" Stodola) — Thu, 10 Jul 2008 18:43:00 +0000

Hi all!

I just came across an interesting info about my favorite Anti-aging product of all time: Sunscreen.
You can find the full article on Webmd.

1. Do some sunscreen ingredients and products really work better than others?

"A definite yes," says Rebecca Sutton, PhD, a staff scientist for the EWG and an author of the report.

Two ingredients favored by EWG scientists are zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, for two reasons, Sutton says. "They protect us over this broad range of ultraviolet A (UVA) and UVB." And these ingredients don't tend to break down as easily as other sunscreen ingredients, according to the EWG.

UVB rays cause sunburn and skin cancer; UVA rays cause aging and likely skin cancer. Because both cause damage to the skin, Sutton says, it's important to pick a sunscreen with broad spectrum protection that shields out both types of rays.

Many active ingredients in sunscreens break down in the sun, wiping out protection, according to the report. And some sunscreens only provide protection against ultraviolet B.

Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are classified by experts as physical blockers, which work by reflecting rays away from the skin. Other sunscreen ingredients, such as oxybenzone, are chemical blockers, which work by absorbing rays and preventing them from penetrating.

"The physical blocking sunscreens are by far the better sunscreens vs. the chemical sunscreens," says Sonia Badreshia-Bansal, MD, a dermatologist in Danville, Calif.

Newer sunscreen formulas include the ingredients avobenzone and Mexoryl SX. "These are considered improvements because they provide excellent UVA and UVB protection," says Dina Began, MD, a physician at Montefiore Medical Center and assistant professor of medicine at Albert Einstein College of Medicine in New York.

Mexoryl (ecamsule), a UVA blocker approved in 2006 by the FDA, was judged as effective in a report on the sunscreen ingredient in a study published in Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery in 2007.

But the EWG found in its literature search that as much as 40% of Mexoryl can degrade within two hours, Sutton says.

Another new sunscreen addition, Helioplex, is a stabilizer used in sunscreens that combine avobenzone (a UVA sunscreen) and oxybenzone (a sunscreen that blocks UVB and some UVA). While they may be more stable, Helioplex products trigger the same concerns from EWG scientists as do other chemical blockers -- the risk of upsetting hormonal balance, Sutton says.

The bottom line: Physical blockers work better on both UVA and UVB rays, according to experts interviewed by WebMD.

I have always favored physical blocks over chemical sunscreen. I only carry physical suncreens at my studio because many of my customers (and myself) are sensitive to them. I have also found if I am not extremely careful about reapplying chemical screens, I will end up with a nasty burn. This article definitely reinforces my views and I hope it answers some of your questions as well. Be sure to follow the link at the beginning of this post to check out the rest of the article for other helpful tips!

You've got great skin!

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea "The Honest Esthetician" Stodola) — Thu, 03 Jul 2008 02:23:00 +0000

Do you know what group of people have the worst skin care routines?

People with great skin.

Wha??

That's right. And no, I am not crazy.

Think of it this way. If you never had acne, excessively oily or dry skin, sensitivities, breakouts, or any other condition that has caused you to worry about what you saw in the mirror, would you think twice about your skin?

Probably not.

You would most likely ignore your skin until one of these conditions appeared. It's the same way with those genetically blessed individuals who haven't exercised a day in their lives, can live on a diet of cheeseburgers and milkshakes, yet manage to maintain perfectly toned physiques.

So, if you are one of these genetic freaks (can you tell I'm a wee-bit jealous?), you don't have to worry about your skin, right? Wrong. In fact, you should be more worried.

Why? Well, lets look at our perfect-body-without-the-sweat counterparts. Let's call her Polly Perfect (jealousy is an ugly thing). The age range for Polly is usually between 17 & 29. At this stage of the game, her metabolism is fired up and her body can handle the extra calories, fat and artificial ingredients consumed. It isn't until about age 30, when her metabolism slows down, that Polly Perfect starts noticing she is packing on the pounds.

What happens next?

Full blown panic. Just think of how much easier Polly's life would have been had she just started to develop good habits earlier!

A person (lets call her Patty) with perfect skin is no different. For years, Patty has never thought twice about her skin and it has been just fine. Suddenly, Patty reaches her 30's and her face has fallen to the floor, brown spots have mysteriously appeared, and her skin has the texture of shoe leather. Patty picks up the phone and dials the number to her friendly neighborhood esthetician and makes an appointment.

The following is an example of the conversation that follows:

Esthetician: What are your concerns?

Patty: I have been noticing some wrinkles, brown spots and my skin is not as smooth as it used to be. I have never had a problem with my skin, before!

Esthetician: Well, what do you use at home?

Patty: Um, soap and water. Oh, and sometimes lotion.

Esthetician: Do you use a sunscreen?

Patty: Only in the summer when, I am out in the sun.

Esthetician: (Sigh)

What follows is usually a laundry list of treatments, home-care and lifestyle changes aimed at correcting Patty's concerns. These do not come cheap. Remember: Prevention is always cheaper and more effective than correction. Patty will either commit to change and hopefully improve her skin (remember there are no guarantees), or be so overwhelmed, chuck the whole idea, and continue on her journey to look like a snake-skin handbag.

So what do you do? Recognize that just like everything else in life, neglect is not the answer!

In order to avoid Patty's fate follow these simple skin care tips:

Use a good cleanser. Even if you don't wear makeup everybody's skin is exposed to pollutants and needs a good cleaning at least once a day (preferably at night). Look for a non-irritating, non-drying formula. If your skin is dry and tight after washing, the cleanser is too harsh.
Wear sunscreen!!! This is my number one anti-aging product. Unless you live in a cave, you need sunscreen year round.
Load up on Antioxidants. Use a topical antioxidant serum (preferably liposome coated) daily and eat fresh fruit and vegetables. Dark berries, spinach & teas are especially high in antioxidants and can boost your skin's natural spf!

These aren't the answers to all your skin care problems, but they will put you on the right track!

Until next time!

I'm so Sensitive

noreply@blogger.com (Andrea "The Honest Esthetician" Stodola) — Tue, 01 Jul 2008 18:04:00 +0000

I thought I would start my blogging career off by addressing one of the concerns almost everyone who works in the skin care field has heard about a billion times: Sensitive Skin.

Watch your esthetitican the next time you utter these words,
"I have sensitive skin."
Chances are that your esthetician will be fighting the urge to roll her eyes or take a massive sigh. (But not me... I'm an educator.)

The reason: Very few people actually have sensitive skin.

"But my skin gets red, itchy, flaky, etc. when I use glycolic, salicylic, (insert your ingredient or product here)."

Now I am not saying that you cannot be sensitive TO a certain product or ingredient, but the actual number of people with truly sensitive skin in rather small. Instead of treating our skin like a hormonal teenager which erupts in every situation like Mount St. Helens, lets look at it like my Dad (stay with me here).

My Dad has an abnormally long fuse. Seriously, it takes a lot to get him angry. When he was teaching me how to drive, I almost ran our car into a baseball field and he didn't get upset, only a little annoyed at my lack of driving skills. However, when he reaches his breaking point you know it. His face gets really red and steam starts to come out of his ears (I really think I saw it once!).

Our skin is the same way (minus the steam). It is constantly bombarded with heat, cold, dry air, humidity, medications, etc. All these factors cause our skin to fall out of it's natural balance state and become dry or dehydrated (or both). Top this already stressed skin with a product that may be too exfoliating or too active and... BAM! Redness, flakiness, irritation and inflammation.

If we take a step back and properly care for our skin so that it remains balanced by avoiding products that will strip the natural oil/water barrier, many of these sensitivities disappear. (Please note I am not talking about rosacea or other skin disorders) Remember: Sensitivity is usually a skin condition, NOT a skin type. Conditions can be corrected; you are born with a skin type.

Keeping your skin in check:

1. Avoid drying cleansers.
Most people cause many of the sensitivities on their skin by using the wrong cleanser. Check your product labels. Avoid Sulfates (especially if they are in the top third of the ingredient deck). Sulfates are strong detergents which in high amount strip too much of the natural oil off your skin. After you wash, your skin should feel like you could almost go without moisturizer. If you are running to slather on the cream to avoid exposing bone and muscle that may appear should your skin peel back, change your cleanser.

2. If your skin is dehydrated: use a hydrating spray or water binding serum
Dehydration is the lack of water on the skin. Check yourself in the mirror. If you stretch your skin and it looks like crepe paper, or you notice a lot of vertical fine lines, you are dehydrated. Look for products with D2O (Heavy Water), hyaluronic acid, L-sodium PCA or other water binders.

3. If your skin is dry: use a moisturizer with natural moisturizing factors and lipids (oils) recognized by the skin.
Dry skin is the lack of oil. If you have switched cleansers, to one without harsh detergents, and you skin is still dry, you may need to replace the lipids (oils/sebum) that your skin is not naturally producing. Look for products with ingredients like shea butter, jojoba oil, and Liquid Crystals (yes, they are not just for your TV!). These ingredients mimic the natural oils found on your skin and will help to lubricate and protect.
Avoid products that contain mineral oils and petroleum-based ingredients. Although these ingredients do not physically clog the skin, they form a barrier on the skin which does not allow the natural sebum produced in the pore to reach the surface resulting in clogged pores, acne, etc. These products are helpful if you skin is chapped, or abraded. The barrier will prevent any other irritants from reaching the healing tissue and allow for quicker repair. Once the skin is no longer irritated, discontinue use and return to a moisturizer which does not contain petroleum ingredients.

3. Don't over exfoliate.
Our skin is only 0.5mm to 1.5mm thick. There is no reason to blast it daily with harsh scrubs or strong glycolic acids. Over-exfoliation can lead to dehydration on the skin, which in turn can lead to sensitivities. Use enzymes for the gentlest exfoliation. If your skin needs an added boost go for lactic acid which is recognized naturally by our bodies or retinaldehyde which actually can help to thicken the dermal (living) layer of the skin!

4. Avoid extremely hot water.
Hot water strips the skin of its natural oil. 'Nuff said.

5. Wear Sunscreen.
The sun not only is extremely dehydrating but it also weakens the skin and leaves it more susceptible to sensitivities, skin cancer, broken capillaries, etc. It also is the cause for 90% of all aging, so slather it on early and often!!

So, don't fret the next time your skin gets a little red, itchy or flaky. Take a step back and look at how you have been treating your skin lately. Is it really sensitive or have you been abusing it? Chances are you, yourself are your skin worst enemy!

Until next time!!

If you have any suggestions or comments about this or ideas for another post let me know!!