I first became aware of Cherise Jacques and her craniosacral work through a dog massage client of mine. Cherise had done a few CT sessions with this senior dog, and I was intrigued. Craniosacral Therapy is most often associated with people, but Cherise’s clientele also includes dogs and horses. Here is our interview on the benefits of Craniosacral Therapy, Somato Emotional Release, and Reiki for both people and animals.

Your Holistic Dog: What is Craniosacral Therapy and what are the benefits?

Cherise Jacques:  Craniosacral therapy is a gentle hands-on release technique used to remedy distortions of structure and function within the skull, spine, and connective tissues. It improves overall wellness, hydration, circulation, and ability to flush out toxins. It aids in the release of unresolved trauma absorbed by the body and overall functional alignment. It improves resistance to disease and addresses a full spectrum of pain, illness, and dysfunction.

The benefits in animals are the same as in people. I often receive calls about animals when there are behavioural problems such as aggression, fear, or attention issues.  Sometimes the symptoms are more structural (gait problems) or there are misalignments in the skull, spine, or even mouth and jaw (receded bite).  Sudden illnesses or withdrawal from the usual routines may also be a reason people seek me out. Occasionally seizures in animals or recent falls or impact injuries are what I am called in to attend. Craniosacral therapy addresses the balancing of the entire body system so it really can be beneficial for most things, although results will vary depending of the actual source of the problem.

YHD:  How did you first become interested in Craniosacral Therapy?

CJ:  It had been recommended to me for years due to multiple concussions I’ve had over my lifetime, beginning with a skull fracture at 8 months old.  I had developed an over-sensitivity to EMF (electromagnetic frequencies), namely those emitted by cell phones. This was one of the therapies suggested to me and it made this sensitivity somewhat tolerable.

I quickly became adept at feeling the subtleties of the treatments and was receiving a lot of benefits. It reduced pain in my head from cell phone EMF almost immediately and also brought many other benefits such as a greater sense of calm, reduced hyper sensory, eliminated night grinding, greater sense of well-being, and a plethora of other benefits.

My interest in becoming a craniosacral therapist arose from my love of animals, specifically horses, and the lack of alternative health services available.  I saw many horses out of circulation due to one form of lameness or another and no real plan of action in place towards recovery. Time off seemed to be the only answer. I had been offering Reiki to horses when I would come and go from the stables and wondered what craniosacral might do to help these animals as it had given me such great relief. Working with the equine world was my first impulse towards becoming a therapist.  The training process introduced me to the human aspect of therapy, and I found I was equally passionate about working with both. I now enjoy working in both areas and am happy to be available to work with both horse and rider concurrently.

YHD:  Most people who are aware of Craniosacral Therapy associate it with a treatment for people. How can this modality be used to help animals too?

CJ:  Craniosacral therapy can be used on animals in much the same way as it is useful for humans.  Injury, illness, or behavioural issues, to name a few. I have worked with dogs who have had a history of seizures or hip problems. As well, I work with pups who may have had bad falls or dogs with behavioural issues.  I’ve also worked on dogs with bite issues where the upper palate seems to recede. We can work with the bones of the soft palate.

In horses, the primary concern tends to manifest around lameness or gait issue.  Sometimes it is a horse who has trouble changing leads, one who is injured, or sometimes a horse that spooks easily. This latter condition may have developed from the stress of a previous incident or injury. Any horse that tends to buck under saddle or does not tolerate common handling is often doing so not to be difficult but because the animal is typically in a crisis and needs helps.  This is why many of these behaviours change after we have a chance to alleviate stresses within the body system.

YHD:  Describe a few examples or case studies of some of the conditions you have treated in your dog clients.

CJ:  One incident which is rather noteworthy is a case where a dog was exhibiting almost ADHD-type behaviour. The upper palate was receding, and the membranes within the skull felt very tight upon investigation. Although it was undiagnosed, I would consider this dog to have some form of ADHD-like qualities, since I see many similar traits in my human clients. Craniosacral therapy is a wonderful way to help with this sort of challenge and, although the treatment helps, it is often necessary to have ongoing regular treatments for those who suffer with it. In this particular case, we did see the palate improve and then regress a couple of times. After several sessions, her behaviour became more focused, and she was easier to handle. Some of these issues can originate with breeding (in terms of weaknesses), but craniosacral can often bring some relief or stave off even these types of dysfunctions.

Craniosacral therapy can really aid in such a vast number of situations, but it is important to note every person or animal reacts quite differently to the work.  Some will see an immediate and lasting resolution, while others may require regular maintenance. Some may even appear to have no benefits whatsoever.  The great part about trying this type of therapy is that it can really do no harm since it is client-directed. We are simply aiding the client in unravelling his/her dysfunction on his/her own, therefore the body is really in charge, not the practitioner.

YHD:  Senior dogs experience a wide assortment of challenges brought on by age. How have you been able to address these issues?

CJ:  Certainly as the body ages many injuries have become layered within the body matrix.  Getting some of this out of the way for an elderly animal can certainly help.  The work also aids in circulatory function, which can greatly help with things such as arthritis and swelling which may come on in the animal’s senior years.  Energy work, such as Reiki/CST, can also be a wonderful tool to help alleviate pain or discomfort for an animal ready to pass on. It can also bring a sense of peace and calm for the animal in his/her final days.

YHD:  You also incorporate Somato Emotional Release (SER) into your work—a touch therapy which helps release past emotional traumas. I would imagine this would be beneficial for rescue dogs who come from traumatic beginnings.  Explain this modality further and describe your experience using this type of therapy.

CJ:  Somato Emotional Release, when used with humans, can often involve some verbal dialogue work with the client. What some may not know is that the verbal dialogue can actually take place between the practitioner and the client’s body. In this way we are often able to detect certain significant elements by using cues from the tissue as we silently ask questions. While this is part of the SER process, the real work of SER comes from the tissue. The tissue has a memory of past trauma and events, and it is still a hands-on therapy, whether or not we utilize dialogue in the process. The Somato Emotional Release process is really inseparable from craniosacral work. It is simply a deeper aspect of it.

To understand it best, I will use an example of someone running to answer the telephone and stubbing her toe.  If the phone call involved bad news,  the tissue of that stubbed toe may contain a memory of the bad news received on that day. Should this trauma to the foot be unable to release on its own, the client may experience those same feelings of disappointment experienced on the day of the injury. The memory is actually contained in the tissue.  Somatic Emotional Release is the process of releasing this tissue and actually triggering a healing and release of all aspects of the injury including the emotional context of it.  This work can be very liberating in this regard, because emotional baggage trapped inside the body like this can begin to colour the overall emotional state and sometimes behaviour of the individual.  In this way, the work can be very subtle, but clients often experience some great shifts in their life after sessions.

For animals, the Somatic Emotional Release element of the work can be wonderful for animals whose previous owner may have been abusive or for animals with questionable backgrounds and adopted at a later age.

YHD:  Animals are very receptive to energy healing. How has Reiki helped your animal clients?

CJ:  Reiki is really such a great tool to use with any animal. It can be a real comfort to them. It is also a great way to connect with your pet. I find one of the first things I do when I begin working with an animal is to connect on this level by first using Reiki healing from a distance. It allows the animal to get a sense of me too and to know it is safe.

Cherise Jacques lives in Vancouver and has a human practice in Ladner, BC at The Birch Tree, where she specializes in working with pediatrics and obstetrics, although not exclusively.  She can be reached for animal work through her website, Equiviva, and at 604-940-1981 (at The Birch Tree).

Are there times you wished you had written something down?

Your dog has a less-than-perfect poop today, and you wonder what could have caused it. You notice your dog’s hacking cough is happening more often, and you try to remember how long this has been going on. Your dog hesitates when he tries to jump on the couch or climb stairs, and you wonder if you need to adjust his joint supplement dosage.

These are just some of the cases where a dog journal can come in handy.

At the beginning of this year, my dog developed an ear infection. Piecing together what could have contributed to his yeast buildup became a challenge, as there were many changes occurring before and after the holidays.

That’s when I finally decided to start a journal for my dog.

In it, I record everything from diet choices to behavioural changes. In just one month, I have already seen the benefit of this new habit. For instance, I can alter his diet or bones based on bowel movements. Or I can make a change to address noticeable signs of body detox.

A journal helps you retrace your steps, put two and two together, so you can make adjustments along the way or consult professionals for more information.

It doesn’t have to be a complicated commitment. Just purchase a simple daily planner from an office supplies store. Depending on the planner, ensure there is adequate space for each day to record all the information you need for your dog. If you have multiple dogs, I suggest using a separate journal for each one (or it may get confusing).

I purchased a weekly Day Minder for my dog’s journal. It displays a week at a glance when opened to two pages, with ample room for each day’s recordings. If your dog has many medical issues, you may need a planner with one full page per day.

Teko checks out the specs of his journal.

Here are some of the observations you can include in your dog’s journal:

1. Diet
If you feed your dog the same thing every day, this may not be relevant. But if you feed a variety of meats and bones (in a raw diet), this can be very valuable information when your dog experiences any digestive problems like diarrhea or constipation. Don’t forget to include all the treats your dog has consumed each day. In addition, write down all portion changes when addressing a weight problem.

2. Supplements
Record the type of supplement and dosage. Some supplements are added on an “as needed” basis. Others are given daily. You might need to alter the dosage, depending on additional information you acquire or based on your dog’s needs. You might use some supplements to address a short-term problem only, like Slippery Elm Bark powder (for digestive upset), which we discussed in a previous post. If you give the same supplements daily, you don’t need to record it every single day. Just write down any new additions or eliminations.

3. Medicine
Depending on your dog’s condition, it can take time to fine-tune an effective dosage. Recording your dog’s response to each dose amount can help you find the proper one. Also, it’s crucial to keep track of any reactions. A journal is also helpful when administering homeopathic treatments, as you may need to keep track of type, amount, and dose for multiple remedies.

4. Health Care Treatments
Record veterinary and other health care providers’ suggestions, prescriptions, and treatments. If your dog receives acupuncture, massage, chiropractic, or hydrotherapy sessions, write down noticeable benefits you see, prices of treatments, and your dog’s reaction. This information can help you tailor a health care plan that suits the individual needs of your dog.

5.  Behaviour Changes
This may include: disinterest in food; changes in mood (might indicate pain); obsessive licking or chewing of paws; increased scratching.

6. Body Changes
Examples: Weight gain or loss; bowel movements; coat quality; changes in muscle mass; bad breath (teeth or gum problem); eye or nose discharge (sign of body detoxification); lumps (size changes); change in gait (limping); persistent coughs or sneezes; excessive panting.

7. Exercise
Write down anything significant that may have occurred during a walk, the length of the walk, the dogs you met up with, and where you went. You may notice your dog quickly eat something off the ground. This may be important later, depending on what it was. There may also be something interesting to observe during a play session.

8. Training
If you’re trying out some training techniques, it’s helpful to record what worked and what didn’t, so you can discuss this with your trainer or research solutions for yourself. Recording daily progress allows you to see how far your dog has come in a concrete way.

It may sound like a lot of work, but it really isn’t. You don’t have to write in the journal every single day. But if you remember to write down changes and observations that are out of normal, it can be a helpful guide when you really need to solve a problem or discuss symptoms with a health care professional.

Does this dog have a stomach ache?

When my dog was a puppy, he had the occasional stomach upset, including diarrhea and constipation. It was at that time, my vet introduced me to the herb Slippery Elm Bark. 

Slippery Elm Bark powder provides a natural, non-toxic way to address digestive issues for both you and your dog.

Slippery Elm contains musilage, which is a substance that turns into a slick gel when mixed with water. This allows it to coat, soothe, and lubricate the lining of the digestive tract. It also stimulates nerve endings in the intestinal tract to encourage mucous secretion, which protects the lining from increased acidity. In addition to mild stomach problems, Slippery Elm has been used to treat colitis, gastritis, and inflammatory bowel conditions.

Inflammation in the lungs, kidneys, bladder,  throat, and joints can benefit from this herb. In the past, I have used slippery elm lozenges for my own sore throat and cough.

The powder can be mixed with cold water to make a paste to give to your dog before a meal, or you can add it directly to the food.  

Slippery Elm Bark powder mixed with water can be used as a poultice to treat insect bites and wounds, which would make this herb a great addition to your pet’s first aid kit.  Native Americans used to apply Slippery Elm as a salve on burns, boils, and other skin inflammations.

Carnivora provides a helpful detailed description of Slippery Elm Bark as well as an explanation of how to administer the herb to your dog.

Naturally Healthy Dogs features a Spotlight on Slippery Elm for a look at the characteristics and uses for this medicinal herb. 

What have you successfully used for your dog’s digestive problems?

So, just what is a Snood? (No, it’s not a character from a Dr. Seuss book) If you have a dog with long, floppy ears, you’ll soon realize that you need something to protect them from raw food, wet food, or bones. Really…there’s nothing like cleaning food off your dog’s ears–every time he eats! Not very sanitary…unless your dog is saving it for snacks later.

I was using a baby bib for a while. It worked fairly well for meals, but it didn’t work for bones.

Enter the snood. Problem solved. Just tuck in the ears and away he goes.

Here’s the young man modelling a little blue number. Rocking it like a granny.

"Where's my food?"

 And this is the snood in action. Well, the aftermath anyway.

And...it's gone!

 Check out more snoods at Embee Cavaliers.

Professional Dog Trainer, Valerie Barry, from In Partnership With Dogs, has been training dogs for over 10 years. As a full member of the APDT (Association of Professional Dog Trainers), she formulated her business philosophy with the idea that respect and cooperation are the cornerstones for a healthy relationship—or partnership—with your dog. In an interview with Your Holistic Dog, Valerie explains this philosophy and dispels pervasive misconceptions about dog behaviour.

Your Holistic Dog: I find the name of your company intriguing…In Partnership With Dogs. How does this express your training philosophy?

Valerie Barry: Interesting that no one has ever asked me that before! I spent a long time trying to come up with a name that truly reflected my philosophy and the message that I am trying to get across to dog owners. A lot of company names out there reflect common myths about dogs and about traditional training methods–”alpha”, “leader of the pack”, “master”, etc. I wanted to get as far away from that whole mindset as possible. 

I am hoping to encourage dog owners to change the way they view their dogs and to focus on learning to understand them, learning to enjoy working with them and learning to appreciate their personalities, sense of humor and individuality. Our domestic dogs are captive in our homes. We have a responsibility to ensure that they have a full and enriching life and are properly equipped with all the necessary skills that they need to live with us–just like our children.

In proper positive reinforcement training, you are building a relationship with your dog. You create that relationship by finding a way of communicating understood by both parties. That communication needs to go two ways–dogs should be able to be heard when they say “I don’t think I can”, or “I need to stop now”, or “I don’t feel safe” and we need the skill to understand them when they say this to us. 

With time and consistent effort, dog and guardian can develop a relationship where there exists a true partnership–each understanding the other’s intentions and expectations so that they appear to almost know what the other is thinking. It’s wonderful to see and wonderful to have that kind of connection with another being, and the process of getting there can be fun and rewarding too. Obviously, we are the human and we live in a human world, so the human gets to make the big decisions and create the rules and boundaries that are appropriate for a dog living in our world. And it is the human’s responsibility to ensure that the rules are fair and clearly understood by our dogs and that we take the time and effort to help them learn behaviours to make them successful participants of our world. This process should be fun and rewarding for both parties–it should not be physically or mentally painful for our dogs, it should not be non-stop onerous work and it should not squash their personalities in the process–creating merely the appearance of obedience.

YHD: There are many misconceptions out there regarding the terms “dominance” and “alpha” when referring to domestic dogs and their wolf ancestors. Can you elaborate on this?

VB: There is a traditional belief that our domestic dogs descended directly from wolves. There is also a traditional belief that wolves have a pack structure that relies on dominance and violence to keep all members in line. This really has attained mythical status. The myth states that the top wolf must be the strongest, fastest, smartest and capable of being more violent than the other pack members or those below it will take the leader down. Traditionally, we have extrapolated this information and placed these same mythical beliefs on our own dogs simply because they are ancestors of wolves and therefore must be the same. In other words, we must be more dominant than our dogs and be prepared to deal with any challenge to our status and be as forceful as is needed to keep our leadership intact. It is widely believed that this myth started as a result of a publication put forward several decades ago by behaviourist Rudolph Schenkel who recorded his observations of a wolf pack that had been created by assembling different wolves from various zoos into a captive colony. 

A great deal of research and decades of observation of wolf packs in the wild has been done since. It is now understood that these early, misleading observations do not resemble the structure of a true wolf pack in the wild. (See publication by renowned wolf researcher, David Mech, Winter 2008, entitled “Whatever Happened to the Term Alpha Wolf?“)

For more articles on the myth of “dominance” and “alpha” in our relationship with our dogs:

1.  “Forget About Being Alpha in Your Pack”, published in 2008, by Kathy Sdao, Certified Animal Behaviourist

2. “Beyond the Dominance Paradigm”, 2006, Patricia B. McConnell, PhD

3. “Dog Training and the Myth of Alpha-Male Dominance“, published in July 2010, by Jeninne Lee-St. John

4. “Using Dominance to Explain Dog Behaviour is Old Hat”, Science Daily, 2009

Dogs, as their own distinct group, have really only been studied in the past few decades, and much information is now available about their habits, behaviour and evolution which clearly exposes much of traditional thinking as the urban myth that it is. Sadly, many dog owners continue to believe the “sticky” story (as described by Kathy Sdao in her article noted above) as it continues to be heavily supported by dog professionals–particularly those on TV and in print media.  Dogs are being terribly hurt by these ideas as it directly effects the training methods that are used on them. 

Any training method that supports the idea that one must be the “alpha” in their household can only be punitive by it’s very nature. While certain “punishment” can seem very benign and not physically violent, it still creates a very different relationship than one based on proper positive reinforcement. One very important thing to remember is that you cannot ever know how something you do effects or feels to another being – particularly when they do not have a common language to express themselves to you. One quote I particularly like to relate to the popular use of punitive training methods is: “Where knowledge ends, violence begins.” (author unknown). Unfortunately, the human species has a love of hierarchies and certainly has a long history of violence against those who appear to refuse to be intimidated by them.   Despite all current evidence to the contrary, punitive training methods continue to persist and be popular.

The problem with aversive training methods is that they do not instill in the recipient a desire to comply and to work together. The other issue is that they offer the illusion that you can have “control” over your dog. In reality, the only being that you can truly control is yourself. 

For further information on modern dog behaviour, check out an extremely enlightening book written by biologist Dr. Raymond Coppinger and Lorna Coppinger detailing their research into the evolution of dogs:  Dogs – A New Understanding of Canine Origin, Behaviour and Evolution. In his book, Dr. Coppinger shows us through his research that although dogs are, indeed, ancestors of the wolf, they are actually direct descendants of the Village Dog or the Pariah Dog. The Pariah Dogs are those dogs you see when you travel to places like The Cook Islands, Africa, Mexico, etc.  He discovered from extensive observations of these dogs, that they live largely solitary lives with no pack structure whatsoever and certainly no violent dominant behaviour between neighbouring dogs. The key piece of information he discusses is that our domestic dogs evolved from wolves. Evolution means that a species changes and adapts to thrive in its new environment. 

YHD: There are training ideas advocated by TV personalities (and adopted by dog guardians) that have been detrimental to the well-being of some dogs. Coming from a television background, I know how events can be edited for time and, in shows like these, this can easily misrepresent “results.” What has been your observation of dogs who have experienced these training philosophies?

VB:  I would have to say that the methods used by our most popular TV dog trainers (that is to say the methods of Positive Punishment and Flooding), are detrimental to the well-being of all of our dogs and are, in fact, killing many of them–directly or indirectly. I would consider it an epidemic of disastrous proportions. That may sound overly melodramatic but I truly believe the problem is that serious. There is only a comparatively small group of individuals working within the bounds of accurate science and behavoural knowledge of our domestic dogs. This group cannot easily overcome the misinformation out there, particularly if it continues to be supported by TV and print medias–that’s a huge structure to compete with for the influence of the general public. The public likes TV that is exciting and full of violence or the potential for violence where the “aggressor” is “dominated.” Is reality TV really “reality?” 

The fact is that a good dog training program of correctly used Positive Reinforcement methods is pretty uneventful and not terribly exciting to watch – unless you’re looking to find joy in uncovering your dog’s personality, sense of humor and finding a partnership with your best friend. You should not have to be a physically strong and fit adult to train a dog–you shouldn’t even have to touch a dog to teach him anything. There’s a well-known positive dog trainer by the name of Suzanne Clothier who I once heard at a conference say: “You shouldn’t have to know how much your dog weighs to train him!”–in other words, “I have an 80-pound Rottweiler…” isn’t the most important piece of information.

In my experience, the dogs that are subjected to these methods of training roughly fall into two groups: the “I don’t think so” group and the “I’ve gone to live in my happy place” group. 

The “I don’t think so” dogs tend to have strong personalities, a good level of confidence and are often pretty intelligent–they will strongly object to a punitive training method right from the start. I’ve had many calls from clients who have tried “just one thing” from a suggestion on TV or an aversive trainer and then quickly created a dog who will growl and bite rather than interact and comply. 

The “I’ve gone to live in my happy place” dogs are ones that I generally see only if someone else has rescued them and recognizes that the “special spark” is missing–it’s been “trained” out of them in some punitive manner. These dogs often appear obedient as they are literally afraid to do the wrong thing and are not willing to offer any behaviour outside of what they have been taught are safe choices. They are easy dogs to intimidate into doing what you want. There are, of course, many dogs who are not directly in just one group but rather fall somewhere in between–but this is a general explanation of my experience and observations.

The “I don’t think so!” Dogs:

I have met and worked with many dogs who have received just one, inappropriate “correction” from their guardians and have then turned around and said, “I don’t think so” in various different ways usually involving their mouths. With this kind of dog, if you continue down the traditional path, you have no choice but to get bigger, stronger and more violent and just hope that you come out on top and eventually succeed in suppressing the more alarming behaviours. I think these dogs truly believe they are in a struggle for survival against their owners. 

Some of these types of dogs begin by putting up with things for awhile but begin making clear comments on the inappropriate techniques. Their only choice is to become louder and louder as the training methods become more harsh and more violent until things spiral way out of control. These dogs are more difficult to bring back as their experience wasn’t just a one-time correction and you need to work very hard to let them know things have changed and they can trust your intent. 

Often, the “I don’t think so” dogs simply do not survive and are killed for their “aggressive” behaviours. This is truly tragic as the “aggression” may have begun as overly exuberant and joyful or very smart and persistent personalities – misunderstood and mistreated. 

Perhaps even more tragic is when the “aggression” is simply a reflection of the fear and insecurity felt by the dog–often very sensitive dogs, not recognized by the human and once again mistreated.  You cannot “punish” fear–it’s simply criminal to do so in my opinion. When you punish, all you do is suppress the behaviour but leave the fearful emotion intact and give the dog even more to be afraid of–the punisher, the method and anything or anyone associated with it in addition to the original fear–so sad.

The “I’ve gone to live in my happy place” Dogs: 

These dogs are terribly sad. They are truly just a shell of their original selves and have been squashed of any and all personality and individuality. They don’t have the same confidence to “fight back” as the other group, and have the appearance of obedience and successful training. However, if you look deep into their eyes you cannot truly see them– they have gone to their happy place and I hope that there is some happiness there for them before they leave this earth. 

They are difficult dogs to work with because they are so unwilling to offer any behaviours and become very stressed when they are not instructed and micro-managed. They are perhaps sadder than the other group simply as their lives are destined to be longer because they are more manageable. To bring some of these dogs back, you literally have to work with and reinforce miniscule behaviours like breathing, blinking, yawning, and small ear movements in order to begin teaching them to trust again and to give them the courage to offer something on their own for instructive feedback and encouragement.

Articles of Interest:

1. Before the “Dog Whisperer” ever aired, it was reviewed by Andrew Luescher DVM PhD DACVB, Director, Animal Behavior Clinic, School of Veterinary Medicine, Purdue University and here is what he recommended to the National Geographic at their request.

2. “Pack of Lies”, published in the New York Times, August 2006, by Mark Derr

YHD: Many guardians are searching for solutions for their reactive dogs. It’s a difficult and complicated issue. What are some key pointers you can give on this subject?

VB: You must use Positive Reinforcement training if you have a reactive dog–simple as that. This is hard for people because it seems counterintuitive to them. People feel that you must exert more force to gain more control for out-of-control behaviours. It’s especially hard to convince people when they have very large dogs or very aggressive-sounding/looking displays of behaviour. 

It is very clear from research into dog behaviour that almost all behaviours that appear “aggressive” have their basis in fear and insecurity. It’s a well-known fact that you cannot punish fear. When you use methods involving Punishment (simplification of the term Positive Punishment in Learning Theory) you are not only suppressing the behaviour but your are leaving the emotion intact and more often than not creating bigger fear of more things. One big problem with punishment-based training is than when you suppress behaviour, the fallout is unpredictable and there is always fallout. That behaviour you were trying to extinguish is going to come out in some other, unpredictable way and that’s a scary thought. In order to properly and permanently change behaviour, you must change the emotion behind it. 

In addition to working with the emotion behind the fear with reactive dogs, you also need to provide them with enough rules and guidelines to make them feel comfortable and more secure. Many people make the mistake of giving their dogs too much freedom and not enough appropriate structure–for a fearful dog, this is disastrous. They need to know what is expected of them, what the right answers are and that there is someone looking out for their needs. Too much freedom means that they are often put in positions to have to make decisions when they don’t have enough knowledge or have not been taught the proper skills to know the correct answers. When a dog makes a mistake in this situation, the dog pays the price.

If you have a reactive dog, you need to understand that time, effort and commitment is required to help your dog and you need skilled help to give you the best and most effective direction. Experience is needed to help you. Your best choice is to find a professional trainer to help you who is skilled and current in their knowledge of Positive Reinforcement training. If you have a big problem with serious aggression (inflicting injuries to dogs or people), then you must also find a positive trainer who has experience with those types of behaviours. One group striving to make changes in the current understanding and education of dog trainers is the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (www.apdt.com) and they maintain a list of trainers, worldwide, who subscribe to their positive philosophies. Word of mouth is also a great way to find a talented dog trainer – ask your friends, ask your vet and ask at your favorite pet store.

YHD: What should a person look for when deciding on a dog trainer?

VB:

1.  A good trainer should be happy to have you drop in on some classes to see how they are run, how she/he teaches, how happy the dogs seem to be in class and be pleased to answer any questions you may have. Are you comfortable with how the trainer is treating the dogs and people in his/her class? Would you be perfectly happy having this trainer handle your dog?

2.  No additional equipment for your dog other than a flat bucker collar, a body harness and regular leash should be needed for a manners or obedience class. You shouldn’t be required to use any special collars or equipment.

3.  A good training class should be fairly small unless there is more than one trainer or a trainer and assistant.

4.  A good trainer should make you feel comfortable and be very knowledgeable about dog behaviour. Do they regularly update their education by attending conferences and seminars and, if so, what conferences and seminars by what trainers? Is that trainer a member of either (or both) the APDT or the CAPDT (Canadian Association of Professional Dog Trainers)?

5.  A good trainer shouldn’t have to handle your dog – they should be capable of explaining things clearly enough to you so that you can do any of the exercises with your dog, yourself.  Occasionally, it’s helpful for a trainer to demonstrate an exercise with a dog but it should be your choice if you wish to hand over your dog or not and you have every right to stop the exercise if something makes you uncomfortable.

6.  A good trainer should be well-versed in dog training methods other than just their own and should be able to knowledgeably discuss the pros and cons of each.

7.  A good trainer should have a recommended reading list / DVD list of current publications that they have read or reviewed.

A very important thing for the general public to know is that the dog training industry is completely unregulated at the present time. Anyone can claim to be a dog trainer, master dog trainer, certified dog trainer, behaviourist, open a dog training school or say pretty much anything about their credentials and skills as it relates to dog training. There are a lot of dog training schools and programs out there and many graduates, but none of them are regulated by anyone in any position of authority. 

The Association of Professional Dog Trainers (APDT) is widely recognized as the largest gathering place and educational forum of current, positive dog trainers and dog training methods. They may well become the regulatory body for the dog training profession. At present, the APDT formally recognizes certification from only five organizations:  Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers; Animal Behaviour Society; International Association of Animal Behaviour Consultants; International Association for the Study of Animal Behaviour; and the American College of Veterinary Behaviourists.  (As the APDT is an American organization, all their recommendations are American at the present time.)

(Photo Credits: 1.Valerie with dogs, Lisa Kerley;  2. Wolf, Radovan Smokon)

For more information, visit In Partnership With Dogs. You can reach Valerie Barry at valeriebarry(at)me.com.