Your Restaurant Sucks

YRS On Hiatus

2012-01-08T10:47:00.000-08:00

Dear YRS readers,

I've decided to put YRS on sleep mode indefinitely as I pursue other personal projects and lifestyle resolutions. The blog will still remain online, but there will be no new activity for a long while. I am also suspending my Sunday Letters segment, so any correspondence sent to yrsblog@yahoo.ca will still be read, but not shared via this blog.

Part of my reasoning for this move can be read in my December 18th entry. Otherwise, lifestyle change is also motivating this decision. We've decided to go off the digital grid, somewhat, at home. We've cancelled our TV cable and home Internet service effective tomorrow in an effort to strike a more balanced, mind-healthy lifestyle. Thankfully I'm old enough to remember life with no Internet, you know, when people actually talked to each other and engaged in meaningful social interaction. We'd like to reclaim a bit more of that on the home front. Further, I have other non-virtual-world projects I'd like to pursue, books I want to read and such. While I've enjoyed writing this blog, it has always been a very peripheral hobby that likely went a lot farther than I'd ever expected it to. I'm not ruling out a return of YRS review activity in the future, but for now a lengthy hiatus is in order.

I want to thank all of you, including the various guest writers, who have helped make YRS one of Victoria's top restaurant review blogs.

Keep dining out in search of the perfect meal and never be afraid to rake a restaurateur over the coals for lousy food or service. Don't be afraid to call BS on the latest food trend, and never hesitate to declare that the "emperor has no clothes." Conversely, don't hesitate to shower accolades on deserving eateries and staff, especially in Victoria where those great places are so few and far between.

Yours most sincerely,

YRS

End Of Year Wrap: From Mineral Springs To Old School Greasy Diners

2012-01-01T12:39:00.000-08:00

Dear readers,

Some end-of-year notes on how I spent the dying days of 2011.

Salt Spring Spa Resort, Saltspring Island, BC

Yes, there actually are salt springs on Saltspring Island!

Unlike most hot spring resorts in North America where the public pools contain chlorine and unruly packs of screaming children (we all know what happens when you mix kids and warm swimming pool water), Salt Spring Spa boasts 100% unadulterated, unfiltered underground mineral water that is piped directly into each chalet's bathtubs. I lived in Japan for 4 years and really became quite the hot spring enthusiast, and have lamented the absence of similar hot springs resorts in BC ever since my return to Canada. The mineral water at Salt Spring Spa brought back fond memories of what it's like to soak in untreated, natural mineral-rich water, and I'd recommend this resort for the water alone. The chalets are rustic, spacious and very private - perfect for a romantic getaway. We loved the minimalist, no frills concept, and I suspect the minority of critics complaining about this resort are the typical urban cretins who can't live without their TV or tech necessities for a night or two. If you want to go to a resort to sit in bed and watch TV, Salt Spring Spa is not for you. But if you want a great mineral bath in a lovely, quiet, private and salubrious location, this place is just what the doctor ordered! This may be one of the Gulf Islands' best kept secrets.

Oystercatcher Seafood Bar & Grill, 100 Manson Rd, Salt Spring Island, BC

Salt Spring Island actually used to be a very quaint, remote place before the big real estate developers and corporate-style tourist operations moved in to cash in on the quaintness. It is still a lovely island, especially when you get out of Ganges and into the more rural areas.

I hadn't been to Ganges in about 10 years, and it seems a lot more developed and urbanized than it used to be. Before heading to Salt Spring Spa, where we would do all our own cooking, we needed lunch and decided on the first place that looked open, which happened to be Oystercatcher Seafood Bar & Grill. Not a bad looking place and great views of the harbour, but more mixed reviews of the food. My chicken clubhouse sandwich was oozing with way too much mayonnaise, which softened the bread into a mushy goo. It took an eternity for the two servers working the small upstairs section to fill our coffee cups and when they did, I eventually noticed coffee grounds at the bottom of my cup. The cup of chowder that came with my sandwich was really good, but not enough to redeem the other flaws. The place was frigid, like dining in a walk-in cooler. This is never a good way to impress the customers. Note to restaurants: If you are going to open your doors in winter, make sure the heat has been on for a good hour prior to opening to warm up the room. Our server was jovial and was obviously working hard to make the best of a less than ideal situation.

The Nest Bistro, Old City Quarter, 486A Franklyn Street, Nanaimo, BC

After a couple of days soaking in the glorious mineral water on Salt Spring, we decided to spend a night in Nanaimo, a place really hard hit by the economic downturn. For a while last year it had the dubious distinction of having Canada's highest unemployment rate. I believe that distinction now rests with Duncan. In any case, and in the spirit of the staycation movement we decided to donate a few tourist dollars to the Harbour City.

We asked around for a good restaurant and one cafe proprietor mentioned the newly opened Nest Bistro. What a nice find. This tiny bistro in the city's Old Quarter is run by a couple of ex-Vancouver chefs and their focus is on local, fresh. Bistros tend to be heavy on pretension, but we detected very little upon entry, and the menu was refreshingly straight forward and minimal. Among our appetizer sampler was an avocado & shrimp salad, which was seasoned with masala - a pleasant, counter-intuitive notion that worked deliciously. For my main, I had a chicken breast stuffed with herbs and cheese and it may be one of the most perfectly cooked pieces of chicken I've ever eaten. My wife's potato-encrusted wild salmon was also a simple, yet exquisite dish.

I wish Victoria had a few more places like this. Too many bistros here, and elsewhere, are big on concept and the over-finessed food ends up getting lost in presentation and creative overkill. The Nest Bistro keeps it simple, with the focus squarely on the food. The result is big success with a quickly growing loyal customer base.

Paul's Motor Inn, 1900 Douglas St., Victoria, BC

Our last breakfast of the year was a return to simplicity. The diner at this iconic Douglas Street motel is a throwback to a simpler era. From its veneer wood trimmings to its classic diner booths, Paul's restaurant is a reminder that you needn't wait in 2-hour line-ups at places like Blue Fox and John's Place in order to get a cheap, basic, greasy, starch-heavy breakfast. It's straight shooter blue collar food, served with a big smile, where all the customers seem to know each other and communicate with staff on a first-name basis.

Incidentally, I'm amazed that copper thieves haven't yet stripped this motel's roofing. Maybe this brand of criminal is too stupid to look beyond Telus cables, and power pole wiring.

Clive's Classic Lounge: The Art & Science Of Mixology

2011-12-29T15:23:00.000-08:00

Clive's Classic Lounge, Chateau Victoria Hotel, 740 Burdett Ave, Victoria, BC

Work is the curse of the drinking classes -- Oscar Wilde

I always seem to be at the tail end of a late evening bender when I enter Clive's for a drunken nightcap. This is likely due to its convenient location, just a few blocks from home, and one of the last places on my route home to grab a drink before blacking out face-first into the sofa (or living room floor). The only reason I haven't already reviewed Clive's -- based on past visits -- is because I'd have been unable to recollect the experience for purposes of a proper non-fiction review. A visit last week to Clive's for one of those late night goodnight drinks was foggy, but memorable enough to piece together some key details for a review.

I preface the following opinion by admitting I'm not a cocktail guy. I'm much more of a beer and wine guy. If I do go harder or more exotic than that, it's usually a single malt scotch straight up or a shot of ice-cold akvivit. Having said this, I appreciate the skill set required for true mixology. There is a lot of chemistry and flavour combinations at play in the craft, and it takes a skilled mixologist to know how to make even classic cocktails. It takes an even better mixologist to create new cocktails that have the ability to evolve into classic drinks. One doesn't need to be a skilled drink-maker to be able to detect greatness in a drink, and the one thing I've always taken away from Clive's is that detection of greatness. The drinks are memorable and they have finesse, staying power, even if I can't remember the drinks' names. Whatever I had last week (and don't ask me to tell you the name of the drink, because I haven't the foggiest clue) was a sublime libational experience. I can tell you it had tequila as its base, some spices and was kept chilled in the glass by a big ball of ice. My wife's cocktail (again, no idea what the drink's name is) was a play on lemonade, or was it limonade? In either case, a far cry from that bottled toxin known as Mike's Hard Lemonade. No, this was real lemon (or lime) and had a half a squeezed lemon (or lime) right in the drink to remind us that they don't use anything but fresh-squeezed to order. It was served in what looked like a steel camping coffee mug. Brilliant, as the steel maintained a nice chill down to the last lemon (or lime) drop.

The lounge layout is dark, discreet and inviting, usually empty by the time I arrive close to last call. But this is not a place I'd recommend for anything other than the mixology magic happening behind the bar. Clive's has plenty of media accolades to support my opinion. In addition to great drinks, the bartender has carefully and thoughtfully selected a short, but very excellent beer list, which includes some exceptional Belgian ales and some good local micro-ales. The food at Clive's? No idea. Every single time I've arrived there, the kitchen has been closed. One of these days I'll try and arrive at a less respectable hour to try out the grub.

Clive's is located on the lobby floor of the Chateau Victoria Hotel, and as the New Year's parties gear up for this Saturday's pomp and ceremony, I'd say you could not go wrong by soaking up a Happy New Year cocktail or three at this lounge at some point, or at all points, during the December 31st festivities.

Of Bards, Bankers, Bloggers And Other Ruminations (Review updated, January 2, 2012)

2011-12-18T12:00:00.000-08:00

[Editor's update, January 2, 2012: I have one belated beef with Bard & Banker and feel strongly enough about it to post this amendment to the below review. While my original positive sentiment about this pub stands, I have to speak out about the price point on the fish & chips. The specials board outside the pub lists the deals for each day of the week, listing prices for most days ($9.99). This is deceptive because it doesn't list a price for the Monday Fish & Chips 2 for 1 special. Unwitting customers may simply deduce that fish & chips at this pub sells for $9.99, and that you'd get two orders for this price. Reason would seem to dictate that $9.99 (or less) would actually be about right for a single order, wouldn't it? But after getting our bill today, we noticed they actually charge 18-friggin-dollars for a single order of fish & chips. Our bill today showed a total of $36, minus half to reflect the 2-for1. And we're talking 3 fish sticks, fries and a bit of slaw. $18 dollars for cod sticks? Bard & Banker, are you insane? What gives with that bizarre price point? Was the fish caught ultra-sustainably via single barbless hook by unionized fishermen from a gold-plated row boat, or what? 18 bucks for fish sticks? When we queried our server about what looked like an error, she was almost apologetic, acknowledging our complaint, tacitly agreeing with what is clearly a serious gouge on the price for this menu item. I will continue to patronize this pub, minus the fish & chips.]

Be master of your petty annoyances and conserve your energies for the big, worthwhile things. It isn't the mountain ahead that wears you out - it's the grain of sand in your shoe. --Robert Service

Sometimes I think that bad restaurants are the proverbial grains of sand in my shoe. There certainly are more important battles to be fought, more vital hills to defend in this world. One can only say so much about restaurants in a culinary backwater like Victoria before a mundane state of deja vu sets in. In January I'll give some serious thought to the future (or lack thereof) of the YRS project. YRS has always been a hobby, borne out of peeves and frustrations related to the inconsistent food quality and often horrendously bad service in this city's restaurants. The great dining experiences, even the good ones, are still the exception to the rule. And as YRS nears its 2-year anniversary, I feel the mission has been met, the peeves aired, a statement has been made, not much more to say.

Aside from providing a platform for my restaurant opinions, YRS has also been an experiment in social media and citizen journalism, a term I'm uncomfortable with because while I am a citizen, simply firing up a vanity press (blog) does not make me a journalist. Real journalists are skilled, trained practitioners and they are increasingly getting squeezed out of the trade by media concentration, as well as by bloggers and 'citizen journalists' who are all too willing to provide content for next to nothing, often nothing.

My experiment in blogging has resulted in a couple of proofs. A clear focus and strong content can equal blog success. I've intentionally left this blog as minimal as possible to test this hypothesis. No Twitter, FB or other social media on YRS. I find these and other common "bells & whistles" more distracting than informative when I read other blogs. Too many blogs I read are all over the map, trying to be all things to all people. One of my favourite local food blogs is Victoria Burger Blog because its focus is narrow, crystal clear and has decent content.

I've purposely excluded food photography from YRS because food photos are ubiquitous, they are everywhere to the point that they've been rendered almost meaningless. If I see one more angular close up of a glistening piece of food.... In my opinion, good food writing should be able to tell the story without relying on photos. I'm a big fan of the great photojournalists, and there's good reason every last one of them did not earn their reputation shooting food.

As stated, this blog remains a hobby, but it's a time consuming and expensive hobby. Dining out regularly to fuel this blog does not come cheap. One of my 2012 resolutions is to reduce my visits to restaurants significantly. If I go out, I'm going to be highly selective, opting for tried and tested favourites. I also plan to do much more cooking at home. Thus, this post could represent the beginning of the end of YRS. I'll give those issues careful thought over the holidays and make some kind of decision in late January.

Bard and Banker Public House, 1022 Government St., Victoria, BC

In the meantime, on with the show. One of YRS's hallmarks has always been honesty, often brutal honesty. I am not influenced by polls, other reviews or popular opinion. Case in point, Bard & Banker Public House. This is a place that has a 50% approval rating on Urbanspoon, and many of the reviews are scathing, damning. I'm not sure what planet these reviewers are on or whether they would know a good pub if it steamrolled over them, but they're wrong.

I've always loved this pub, and a midday visit yesterday solidified my positive opinion. Set inside one of the city's historic buildings on Government Street, Bard & Banker's sprawling 2-storey interior, with its secret nooks and private alcoves, is likely what the pub in heaven is like, if I ever make it there. The fantastic layout, amplified by the ornate furnishings and wood trimmings, is made even better by the spectacular selection of tap beers, not to mention fine whiskys. In the spirit of Bard Robert Service, Matt Phillips has crafted an ale that is only available at this pub (and its sister pubs). According to Phillips, the "Service 1904" Scottish-style ale "is interesting as it requires making hot rocks and dumping them in the kettle to caramelize some of the sugars.” This traditional brewing method, says Phillips, produces “full, rich, round, sweet flavours.” I'm not a big fan of the malty Scottish ales, but this one is lighter in body, smoky with a dry finish. In addition to specialty beers like this, Bard & banker has all the great regional micro-brews on tap, and a good number of imports, all served in proper glassware.

Bard & Banker's food has always been a bit of an afterthought, something to help the great beers go down, but it's not bad. We usually have nachos or chicken wings, pub classics that are very hard to screw up.

At night there's usually live music, which adds to the ambience. In the past couple years, we've seen former Grapes of Wrath front-man Tom Hooper play countless times, and he never fails to deliver the musical goods.

Yes, Bard & Banker is a bit on the touristy side, and prices slightly higher than other pubs, but in the offseason when it's mostly locals hanging out there, it's a great place to fulfil one's libational dreams or just chill out over a plate of nachos and some live music.

J & J Wonton Noodle House: Victoria's Best Chinese Food Is Not in Chinatown

2011-12-14T13:56:00.000-08:00

J & J Wonton Noodle House, 1012 Fort St., Victoria, BC

J & J Wonton Noodle House is one of those places that's been on my review back-burner for a good year. A recent visit (I've visited numerous times over the years) reminded me that it's time to finally write down the YRS word on this reliable Chinese food eatery.

Of all the Westernized ethnic foods, Chinese has to be the most common and well known. Especially in BC, the first port of entry for immigrants from Asia into Canada. We owe much to the Chinese for our rich, melting pot cultural blend in the province. This cultural diversity, however, doesn't always translate into good Chinese food. What we are accustomed to is a highly Westernized, MSG-infused version of the real thing. Victoria's Chinatown restaurants are notorious for this version, likely because they specialize in high volume, high turnover food directed at tourists. Even Chinatown restaurants that were once good seem to have faded into Chinese food oblivion. The more flashy the neon signage, the lousier the food seems to be.

J & J Wonton Noodle House has been a quiet counterpoint to this bad Chinatown food ethos since 1994. Not only does this inconspicuous eatery boast no gaudy neon signs, it is also far removed from the city's Chinatown. Ironic, indeed, that the best Chinese food in Victoria exists outside of Chinatown. I qualify "best" by admitting I haven't been to every Chinese food place in the CRD, but I've been to enough to know good when I taste it. And having had a chance to sample the real thing during a recent trip to Hong Kong, I can say with a degree of confidence that J & J Wonton Noodle House is about as good as you're going to get in Victoria outside of China.

Upon entering J & J, one immediately notices the open view kitchen, with chefs in top hats working away. I've always liked this open kitchen concept because it puts the customer a lot closer to the food, makes for a more inclusive ambience and demonstrates that the place is proud of its chefs, who have literally nothing to hide.

I'm not a fan of all the dishes I've had here, some seem a bit too sauce-heavy and tailored for Western taste buds, but the wonton noodle soup is a thing of minimalist beauty. The broth is refreshing, simple and devoid of the usual additives we've come to expect at most Chinese restaurants. The wontons are equally fresh, as are the thin noodles, which I believe are made on premises. The service has always been prompt and efficient during my many visits.

On a cold winter day, I can think of fewer things I'd rather be eating than a piping hot bowl of J & J's wonton noodle soup.

Sunday Letters, December 11th Edition

2011-12-11T17:17:00.000-08:00

Re: Bin 4 Burger Lounge: Underwhelming (Dec. 10, 2011)

Hi YRS,

We just wanted to take the time to write you back and thank you for coming in and trying us out. Although hard for us to read that we didn't deliver a good experience for you, we do appreciate the feedback as we are new and always trying to improve. There is no doubt that the first few weeks have been very busy and we have some challenges in the kitchen to overcome. We have already scheduled some new renovations such as a new walk-in cooler and dishwasher, among other things. Having said that, we certainly make no excuses for your poor experience. We would love to earn the opportunity for another review from yourself and would love to send you a gift card if you are interested. I truly believe you will really like our product when cooked properly.

I must defend us on one point....I assure you that we don't have any false reviews on our site, it is unfortunate that those sort of things happen on some businesses sites.

Would love to meet you if you would like to pick up a gift card or we are more than happy to mail a gift card to you if you would prefer. As I said we would love to earn a new review from you as we are a small local business that really wants to be a good part of this community. Please feel free to email us if you have any questions or more feedback.

Sincerely,
Dan, Sarah & Mike @ Bin 4 Burger Lounge
Victoria, BC

YRS response:

Thanks very much for writing to YRS. I'm always happy to offer readers and restaurant reps (like you) the chance to reply, to provide some balance to my opinions. I'm a big fan of good communication, thus your measured, courteous response is appreciated. I think good communication can be the difference between business success and failure, especially during such difficult economic times. So good on you for reaching out to your critics!

I will give your restaurant a second visit in the new year and I can promise you that if I get a great burger in a timely fashion, I'll be delighted to post a new review and repent to the burger gods. As I said in my original review, I welcome the resurgence of the hamburger, I just wish I'd had a better experience during my first visit to your establishment.

Regarding my allegation of fake reviews, I was not claiming that reviews on your own web site were fabricated. I was referring to the reviews on the Urbanspoon page for Bin 4. And even then, take my conspiratorial musings with a grain of kosher salt. Sometimes we reviewers employ our artistic license to questionable excess.

Thank you for the offer of a gift card. That's very kind, and again, a great communication gesture. When I started YRS, I decided that in order to do it on the level, in good faith, I could not accept freebies, gifts of any kind. So nothing personal. I must maintain this policy to maintain the integrity of YRS.

Regards, and best of luck with your new venture,
YRS

--------------------------

Re: The Best, Worst and Most Disappointing of 2010, According to YRS (December 30, 2010)

Hello!

I just wanted to thank you for your review of Hernande'z!

If you ever find that your experience is less than stellar (either in food or in service friendliness) please let me know. I really miss the days when I could personally host our patrons, but now I rely on our patrons to "keep us real" by giving me feedback on their experience.

Warmly,
Tamara Hernandez
Victoria, BC

YRS Response:

Tamara, thanks for the reply, and I owe Hernande'z an apology. My original review of your restaurant appeared in my best-of-year list posted at the end of last December. In that short review I had pledged to do a more expanded review in the coming year, but obviously that failed to materialize. I made similar promises to other restaurants on that list, and those follow-up reviews also failed to show up on YRS in 2011. One reason for no follow-up review is because I simply deemed it unnecessary. What more could a local eatery want from a restaurant blogger than to earn a spot in the blogger's best-of list? Rest assured that I still think you guys make the best Mexican food in town and I plan many future visits.

Best regards,
YRS

Bin 4 Burger Lounge: Underwhelming

2011-12-10T13:36:00.000-08:00

Bin 4 Burger Lounge, 911 Yates St., Victoria, BC

Is it just me, or is the classic hamburger currently enjoying a resurgence in pop food culture? This seems especially so in Victoria with a spate of recently opened and soon-to-open burger places. It's an odd phenomenon, given the growing food awareness, locavore consciousness and healthy living times we increasingly find ourselves in. My sociological theory is this: The resurgence of the classic burger & fries is a kind of cultural pushback, a big SCREW YOU to the healthy living cultists that have been preaching their bird seed zealotry for a good two decades now, telling us we are bad, unethical people if we eat foods that raise our cholesterol level and allegedly destroys the environment.

When the burger revival began a few years ago, proprietors tried to appease this eco-health religiosity by offering veggie “burgers” (fuck that noise, I say no meat = no burger. Period), and by trying hard to get "ethical" beef via local sources. Some of these burger sellers employed subtle euphemisms to make their products sound less like hamburgers and more healthy and ethical. No longer was it a hamburger, but a gourmet burger, or a slider, or some such nonsense. The new wave of burgerism continues to employ these strategies, but the attitude these days seems to be packing a better, more honest counter-punch. The hot yoga healthy living vegan cult has for too long seized and controlled the conversation around food and lifestyle in this city, and the classic hamburger is now pushing back, saying enough is enough. We're not going to open one new burger place downtown. In your face, muthfucka, we got 6 either opened or soon to open! And there’s more coming!

For me, the issues around healthy or unhealthy food have not been about fast vs slow food, or the food itself, but about temperance. There's nothing unhealthy, wrong or unethical about consuming deep-fried foods or slabs of meat inside pieces of bread, as long as it's done in moderation. And by that I mean no more than 5 days per week. Okay, maybe not that much. But you get my point.

I decided to exercise my moderation last night by trying out the much-hyped Bin 4 Burger Lounge. I really wanted to love this place, mostly because it's only a block and a half from where I live. Bin's owners have clearly done a superb marketing and PR job getting the word out, evidenced in the jam-packed room late last night. They also seem to have done a great job getting their friends, staffers and family members to pad the Urbanspoon review section. Almost every single review there glows suspiciously with the same gleeful, enthusiastic diction. Go ahead, call me a cynic, because I am one, especially when it comes to hugely hyped Victoria restaurants.

As I say, I wanted to love this place, but came away disappointed. After placing our orders, it took nearly an hour for our burgers to arrive. And when they did, they looked and tasted as though they'd been cooking for that long. Both of our burgers were way overcooked, to a tough, hockey puck consistency. The patties were poorly seasoned, if at all. The bun they use looks exactly like the one J. Wellington Wimpy ate in the Popeye cartoons, but I doubt he would gladly pay anybody next Tuesday after eating this one. A couple of the fries on my wife's plate were uncooked. In sum, we found the entire burger experience at Bin 4 underwhelming. They do have some decent beers on tap, so if I do go back it will likely be to sit up at the bar and sip a cold one, rather than to eat. I do acknowledge that Bin 4 is just over a month old, so I may try another burger there after they've had a year to work out the kinks. But for now, no can do.

In my less than humble opinion, the best burger and fries in town is still at a place that's not even a burger restaurant (Brasserie L'école). Followed very closely by Pink Bicycle. And while I rarely stray from the classic definition of hamburger, Cafe Ceylon's chicken burger is so good, it warrants a spot on the top of my best burgers list.

Sunday Letters, November 27th Edition

2011-11-27T14:26:00.000-08:00

Re: Wah Lai Yuen: You Disappoint Me (Oct. 15, 2011)

Dear YRS,

You were absolutely on the money about this place. It seems they have changed hands. Gone are the old Cantonese aunties there, replaced by young Chinese slackers. My wife and I used to go there for the noodles, but I won't bother going there no mo'.

I really appreciate your blogs on local restaurants. There's way too much attitude and not enough honesty in most of the establishments. Good food shouldn't cost the earth.

Keep up the good work!

Cody
Victoria, BC

YRS Update: End Of Year Fast Approaching

2011-11-27T11:27:00.000-08:00

Dear readers,

You may have noticed a slowdown in review activity since my Vancouver report. I tend to eat out less in winter months, especially around the holiday season, so don't expect a deluge of restaurant opinion in the coming weeks.

At the end of last year, I wrote The Best, Worst and Most Disappointing of 2010, According to YRS. I'm likely to do something a little different this coming end of year. I find it difficult to deem a restaurant best or worst when I haven't been to every last eatery in town. Furthermore, I find restaurant ranking systems, especially the quantitative scoring variety, highly suspect. Restaurant reviewing is not hard science. It's not even soft science. Yes, there are truths, facts and very real skills that separate the good from the bad, but from my consumer vantage, it's primarily an exercise in taste-based opinion-giving. So instead of providing a list of "best" and "worst" I plan to follow up on a suggestion Mike (loyal reader) sent me a while back. I will go through the entire YRS archive and list the restaurants I (and guest reviewers) think suck and don't suck. If this blog continues well into the future, I will make those lists permanent fixtures on the blog.

In the meantime I will continue to post letters to the editor. I received one last week, which I'll be posting later today.

All the best heading into the holiday season,

YRS

Sunday Letters, November 20th Edition

2011-11-20T08:51:00.000-08:00

Re: Authentic Mexican Food In Stark Contrast To Gringoized Version (Monday, September 19, 2011)

Dear editor,

As an employee of Cafe Mexico for over twenty years I would like to respond to your review.

Our interior decor is in part enhanced by an installation by the Mexican-Canadian artist Luis Merino (currently exhibiting at Winchester Modern). Our tortilla chips are hand cut and fried daily. All our salsas are made in house including our pureed red, pico de gallo, salsa verde and salsa piquante. We do offer a full range of tequilas (Cazadores, el Jimador, Patron, Cabo Wabo, Herradura, Correlejo...to mention a few) and our margaritas are served on the rocks or frozen, prepared with our own lime juice mix and real fruit. We, as PVA and Hernande'z, use fresh ingredients and prepare all our shredded meats, rellenos and sauces in house and from scratch.

We do strive to provide the customer with a positive experience, service and product. We recognize the wide variety of recipes and approaches available in Mexican cuisine throughout the neighbourhood and city and celebrate the experiences our peers offer.

We appreciate the time people take to offer critique and criticism, in person, through blogs and other forms of social media. We take all comments seriously. The one way street of the internet can be confusing though when the article is posted with no informative link for the business who is being reviewed. We lose the ability to dialogue and target our improvements. As a long standing employee I am also concerned when the comments do not truly reflect our business.

Thank you for your time and the chance to set the record straight.

Jennifer Wilson, Floor Manager, Cafe Mexico
Victoria, BC

YRS Response:

Jennifer, thanks for taking the time to express your concerns in writing to YRS. I'm always happy and willing to offer readers, especially restaurtant reps, a chance to challenge, counter or correct my opinions. As I've said in the past, the essence of my reviews is honesty. If I don't like a restaurant, I feel I owe it to my readers to speak from my heart. If readers want flowery, candy-coated reviews, they are free to read Eat Magazine, or other such industry publications. I am not beholden to advertisers, nor do I accept free-dinner bribes from restaurants. If I state an opinion, it is honest opinion, wrong or abrasive as it may be perceived.

While your letter does not change my opinion of Cafe Mexico, it does demonstrate your passion and willingness to communicate with customers, which can be the difference between restaurant success and failure.

Elaborating on my review, I can tell you that I've been to Cafe Mexico a few times. I went when it opened some 20 years ago, and most recently about a year ago. One of my complaints is that it seems stuck in the past, unwilling to evolve or reinvent itself to meet the higher standards and expectations set by places like Hernande'z or Puerto Vallarta Amigos. The chips at Cafe Mexico have always tasted like those stale Old El Paso taco shells my mother used to serve me when I was a kid, when she was too busy to cook a real dinner. The various dishes have always possessed that hallmark Tex-Mex fast food ubiquity, weighted down in cheesy grease, forgettable salsa & guacamole and mounds of generic sour cream. This has always seemed like a strategy to hide weak flavours rather than a method of drawing out or enhancing unique, authentic Mexican flavour nuances.

YRS Editor-in-Chief

YRS in Vancouver: Long Lineups, Overrated Breakfasts, Great Ramen Noodles And Japadog

2011-11-14T20:39:00.000-08:00

After a long weekend in Vancouver hunting out some of the more popular restaurants in town, I've become convinced of an oft stated YRS opinion: Popularity and long lineups do not necessarily translate into good restaurant. I've always known this to be true in Victoria with places like Blue Fox, John's Place or Red Fish, Blue Fish, but the no-reservation phenomenon is alive and thriving in Vancouver, and it seems to be paying off in spades for the eateries that employ it. Restaurateurs have all sorts of lame rationalizations for abandoning a reservations policy, often complaining that a reservation system results in no-shows and therefore lost business. I call BS on this. I think the real reason some of the more trendy places refuse reservations is to feed the manufactured buzz surrounding their restaurant. Here's how it works. You get loud buzz going around a restaurant, the foodies get curious, and when they arrive to see what all the fuss is about they note the long lineup and instantly deduce, "okay, this place must be great if I have to wait out in the cold rain for 45 minutes or an hour!" They proceed write about it, spread the word, calling it the new great restaurant in town. At some point, after the foodie elite and dedicated followers of fashion are on board, a business-buzz critical mass takes hold, and at that point the food gets overshadowed by the buzz and hype. But who cares. The restaurateur has a wildly popular restaurant and is making cash hand over fist. At this point the restaurant could almost get away with serving dog food under the guise of some fancy French name and unwitting diners would still come away thinking they've just been through a truly unique and special restaurant experience. Of course, there are instances where popularity and restaurant goodness merge, but I've increasingly found the reverse to be true. Vancouverites seem especially prone to fad-influenced dining behaviour, in which being part of the trend & vibe and being associated with an in-crowd that will wait an hour in the cold rain to eat eggs and toast off a fancy plate surpasses the reason we dine out -- the food. Sometimes, for these folk, being seen among the in-the-know crowd is the raison d'être. Case in point, Cafe Medina, located in the outer reaches of Gastown.

Cafe Medina, 556 Beatty, Vancouver, BC

Cafe Medina has all the elements of a great urban cafe/bistro, not the least being its creator, Executive Chef Nico Schuermans, who was schooled at the prestigious CREPAC School of Culinary Arts in Belgium. With an already critically acclaimed Vancouver restaurant (Chamber) under his belt, Schuermans places emphasis at Medina on morning food, breakfast and brunch. Standing in line here for about an hour on Saturday morning, we had a pretty good chance to absorb the vibe and buzz surrounding this popular eating place. The regulars seem of the Yaletown fashionista ilk, followed by the odd curious average Joe or food tourist. I can deal with all this, and I've come to accept that getting to great food sometimes means being among people who are way way richer, more fashionable and cooler than me. As long as the food is good, I usually leave happy.

My wife and I both ordered the Tagine (2 poached eggs, spicy tomato stew, merguez sausage, sundried black olives, and cilantro. Grilled foccaccia with humus, $14), which is served in a shallow clay pot. Most of their breakfasts are served in iron skillets. On paper the Tangine turned out to sound much better than it tasted. My wife found the dish to be much too saucy and sloppy. I enjoyed it a bit more than she did, perhaps because of the unique use of North African influence and spices. I'd describe the dish as more interesting than delicious. We both agreed that the dish was much too sour, which we later learned was due to liberal use of sumac, or so the server speculated. That's too bad, because with a bit less sour, this dish really has potential to shine.

Medina is also famous for its Belgian waffles, although the big stack of them showing through the front window suggests that they've been sitting around for hours and are re-heated. The best waffle is one that's made to order, like the ones cooked up by local waffle experts at Wannawafel.

By the time we left Medina, more than 2.5 hours had passed, half of that time waiting in the cold outside. If this place accepted reservations, I'd almost surely go back to try something else, or maybe not. But in accordance with a YRS edict, I don't do long lineups for food. Cafe Medina is overrated and not worthy of long waits, interesting as the pricey breakfast food might be.

The Red Wagon, 2296 East Hastings, Vancouver, BC

In stark contrast to Cafe Medina is its apparent antithesis, The Red Wagon. This gritty little diner, at first approach, hearkens back to a bygone, simpler restaurant era. The problem is, Red Wagon strives to be more than that by infusing silly food trends into its menu. As much as I like pork belly and pulled pork, sometimes a classic breakfast is better left as a classic breakfast, rather than turned into a classic breakfast with an inferiority complex. Like Cafe Medina, there's considerable foodie buzz surrounding this East Hastings diner, which means... yes, you guessed it, no reservations allowed and long lineups.

My wife had one of the pork belly & egg dishes, which she expressed disappointment with. I tried to keep my breakfast as no-frills as possible, opting for a cheese, spinach & mushroom omelette, which tasted bland, lacking in any seasoning, slightly overcooked. My pan fries were undercooked, cold and lacking in that necessary crispy exterior. The thick slices of "sourdough" toast tasted more like thick slices of Wonderbread, and obviously the thickness is intended to pad the rest of the food on the plate, serving as a carb-filler.

The Red Wagon's nostalgic ambience is fun, and it does draw a much more earthy blue collar customer than a place like Medina, thus a more relaxing ambience, but at the end of the meal, it's classic diner food with an attempt to be more than that. With so many places in downtown Vancouver or on Commercial Drive serving a much cheaper, no-frills breakfast, I see no reason why I'd want to go all the way out to Red Wagon, stand in the rain for an hour and pay more for the privilege.

Twisted Fork Bistro, 1147 Granville St, Vancouver, BC

The best dining experience had during our weekend visit was at the Twisted Fork Bistro (TFB), inconspicuously located in the Granville entertainment district. This is a traditional French style bistro reminiscent of Victoria's Brasserie L'école, casual enough to avoid pretension, yet high enough quality cuisine to avoid being a bistro pretender. They keep their menu simple, confined to a single sheet and offer very affordable multi-course specials most days of the week. TFB's interpretation of scallops wrapped in bacon is an interesting deconstruction of the classic appetizer and the result is surprisingly delicious. My wife's main course, Beef Bourguignon, was more sophisticated and elegant than what we've come to expect from this dish. My main dish, roast duck breast, was of high quality, although I did find the duck meat a tad too salty. The rest of the plate's trimmings were fantastic, making the whole dish much stronger than the sum of its parts. You will also find long lineups here. It's a small room. But we'd learned our line-up lessons by this time and made a point of showing up 10 minutes prior to dinner opening.

Along with Bin 941 Tapas Parlour, Twisted Fork Bistro is now among my favourites in Vancouver.

Going Japanese in Vancouver

Unlike the insular restaurant scene of Victoria, Vancouver's dining options are many and sprawling throughout the metro region. While more is good, this can also be problematic as finding the really good places can involve eating your way through a lot of bad food. Doing a little advance research helps, but as I've said above, popular by no means translates into good. In Vancouver Japanese restaurants are a dime a dozen, mostly a result of the sushi wave of the past couple decades.

Having lived in Japan for a total of four years, I'm pretty familiar with Japanese cuisine and I miss the real thing. One of my favourite comfort foods during my time in Japan was ramen. When done right, quality miso ramen is the best bowl of noodle soup on the planet. I have yet to find a single bowl of ramen in Victoria that didn't taste like instant, re-heated noodles. Vancouver, however, with its many homages to Japanese food, has some true contenders in the ramen department.

Like most great cultural and culinary things in Japan, ramen originated in China, but the Japanese over the centuries have styled it into a dish that is all their own. Ramen's foreign roots are suggested via the katakana usage for the word, ラーメン. The katakana syllabary, as opposed to hiragana or kanji, is used to express words of non-Japanese origin. If you are visiting Tokyo and you are serious about your noodles, you'll of course be sampling all sorts of styles of ramen and soba, the flavours and nuances of which tend to vary according to regional influence. But if you ever are in this part of the world, one of the most delicious and entertaining museums is the Shinyokohama Ramen Museum, which is part kitschy theme park and part food fair documenting the history of ramen.

Benkei Ramen, 1741 Robson St, Vancouver, BC

Benkei Ramen has five locations scattered around Vancouver, and the only reason we went to the Robson Street location was because our first choice, Hokkaido Ramen Santouka 火頭山, had... you guessed it, a really long lineup. Our second choice was a block down near the Corner of Robson and Denman, a place called Kintaro, but the line there was even longer than the one at Hokkaido. Situated between the two was the lineup-free Benkei Ramen, where the miso ramen is better than instant packaged noodles, but a far cry from the glorious version I recall from Japan. The real trick with ramen is as much in preparing the soup stock as it is using fresh, preferably housemade noodles. Benkei's version seemed lacking in both elements. The slices of pork served on top, too tough. The broth was lukewarm, and ramen broth must be piping hot. We left disappointed, but vowed not to give up on ramen in Vancouver.

Hokkaido Ramen Santouka 火頭山, 1690 Robson St, Vancouver, BC

Several hours after our experience at Benkei, and several drinks later, we decided to give Hokkaido Ramen Santouka a late night, inebriated try, and much to our delight the lineup was short, we were seated within about 15 minutes. Japanese restaurants, in Japan, often feature a lot of yelling back and forth between kitchen and floor staff, so when we entered this ramen shop to sounds of that familiar Japanese communication, I knew it was a good first sign. We both ordered miso ramen and shared an order of gyoza. After my first couple drunken bites of each, I started getting pleasant flashbacks from my countless blurred late nights carousing the congested lanes of urban Japan in search of a great izakaya or soba-ya. In other words, Hokkaido Ramen Santouka on Robson Street is the best bowl of miso ramen I've had outside of Japan. Richly textured miso broth and chewy, perfectly cooked noodles to die for. And the gyoza were not bad either.

In Victoria, at the location of Tibetan Kitchen, there used to be a fantastic udon noodle shop. The older Japanese couple used to hand-make enough udon for about 30 bowls a day, and they usually sold out everyday. Unfortunately, the couple closed shop after only a couple years in business and went back to Japan. Since then, I've not found a single decent Japanese noodle in Victoria, be it udon, soba or ramen. If you know any best kept Japanese noodle secrets in Victoria, let me know.

Japadog, 845 Burrard St, Vancouver, BC

Hailed by the likes of Anthony Bourdain and other folk of food fame, Japadog has somehow managed to gain an almost food cult status in Vancouver. I suspect much of this is due to timing. I recall much of the buzz around Japadog happening during the 2010 Olympics. Talk about a captive food cart audience.

I finally had a chance to try it to judge for myself, and while it's a decent dog, I don't know what all the fuss is about. I concede, a few shreds of seaweed paper and some wasabi flavoured mayonnaise does liven up an otherwise boring wiener in bun, but is the hype justified? YRS says no way. And at 8 bucks, I conclude that this is an overpriced hot dog riding the tail end of the Japanese food wave in Vancouver, a hot dog cart that has done little more than dress up a classic hot dog with a couple of Japanese flavours and has convinced locals to pay too much for the concept.

Le Petit Dakar: New African Takeout Downtown

2011-11-03T10:25:00.000-07:00

Le Petit Dakar, 711 Douglas Street,Victoria, BC

Le Petit Dakar is among the several new tenants occupying the small shops at the Crystal Garden building (see my review of Awesome Coffee), across from the bus station. While this Senegalese food place does have a couple of tables, it is primarily a takeout restaurant, which I think will work well in that transit-oriented part of downtown. And when they aren't catering to tourists and transients, Dakar will be serving the healthy population of civil servants who work in the area and desperately crave an alternative to the dreaded Spaghetti Factory.

The cuisine of Senegal is influenced by French, Italian and Portuguese colonialism in the region, so you're likely to see some familiar foods here. I tried the Domoda (Sengalese beef bourguignon), which normally comes with rice, but I was given couscous. Le Petit Dakar's rendition of this classic French dish is quite good, more rustic (bone-in beef chunks) than the European version, and goes wonderfully with couscous. And at $8.25, it's a lot cheaper than what you'd pay at a snooty Euro-bistro. My only complaint was that it was served lukewarm, which I take some responsibility for. I arrived well before noon as they were setting up their food bar, and obviously their food wasn't yet at its ideal temperature. In addition to Domoda, I had a couple small somasoa-like pastries, which were stuffed with sweet potato -- very yummy. They do everything from scratch.

Their menu has some really interesting things on it, which will add much needed diversity to the downtown food scene. I'm a big fan of African chicken dishes, so I look forward to trying the Yassa Au Poulet. You will also find curries, seafood, eggplant lasagna and even pizza on the menu.

The owners have their food roots in the catering business, and it was apparent during my visit that they are no strangers to food preparation, evidenced in the well organized, sparkling-clean kitchen. They are also very nice people, cheerfully answering my many questions about their operation.

Nar, Ottavio & WBA Salumeria: Culinary Jewels In The Oak Bay Crown

2011-10-29T17:25:00.000-07:00

We made a rare trek into Oak Bay today, bravely penetrating the Tweed Curtain on foot from downtown. Known more for its old British money, luxurious retirement villas and meticulously groomed designer dogs, it's ironic that the highlights of today's visit turned out to be of Turkish and Italian descent. Not a single mushy pea or Earl Grey teabag to seen.

Nar Cafe & Bistro, 2540 Windsor Rd, Oak Bay, BC

Situated in a 2-storey character house overlooking Windsor Park, Nar Cafe & Bistro is a place that lives up to its esteemed, slightly exclusive Oak Bay location. This Turkish restaurant has been on my wish list for a good year, so today's lunch visit was much anticipated. It turned out to exceed my expectations, which for YRS usually means damn good.

We called ahead to reserve a table, and they were kind enough to give us a 2nd floor window seat overlooking the park. When we sat down at our table, it all seemed perfect, but a neighbouring table of 4 very loud mid-aged women threatened to spoil the experience. One lady in particular was especially annoying and boisterous, pontificating in a most obnoxious academic tone about lesbian culture, sexism in European culture, detailed descriptions of various birth control methods, the Pope and how inherently sexist and evil Italy's Catholic culture is, especially the men. I have no problem with people having diverse, spirited, even idiotic discussions at the table next to me, just as long as I don't have to hear it; as long some modicum of dining etiquette is adhered to, the most important rule being: You aren't the only one in the room! Much to our relief, they were at the tail end of their lunch and vacated before our meals arrived. None of this, of course, is the fault of the restaurant.

With the annoying ladies gone, we settled into a most pleasant lunch. My wife had the Ground Beef & Leek Borek (baked crispy phyllo pastry layered with ground beef and leek, served with lentil soup), and I ordered the Kofte (beef meat balls infused with Turkish spices and baked in tomato-basil sauce, served with house salad and rice pilaf). Both were nothing short of sensational, Turkish cuisine at its best. That's not hard to say in Victoria because Nar is the only Turkish eatery in town, but having eaten Turkish many times before along my travels, Nar is as good as any I've had. The charming Victorian home atmosphere adds to the overall dining experience at Nar. Service was adequate, but not of high calibre. I suspect this improves for the dinner hours. We are already plotting a return visit for dinner to sample further reaches of the menu.

If you haven't had real Turkish cuisine before (and I'm not talking about the kebab food carts seen in most big cities and in food courts), then get out to Nar and support this family business. Turkish food shares much in common with Greek cuisine, so if you like those kinds of flavour and texture profiles, you'll love Nar, which I think blows most local Greek restaurants clear out of the water.

Ottavio Italian Bakery, Delicatessen & Cafe, 2272 Oak Bay Ave

On our walk back from Nar, we stopped at Ottavio Italian Bakery, Delicatessen & Cafe. I've been here a few times before and it really is an amazing place. The selection of olive oils, alone, is mind-blowing. They actually conduct olive oil tastings. The selection of vinegar types is equally impressive. But the pastries and breads are the real star of the show here. The wide range of deli meats and cheeses make this place a self-catering heaven.

The Whole Beast Artisan Salumeria, 2032 Oak Bay Ave

Naturally, we needed something to go with the Ottavio bread just purchased, so what better place than one specializing in sausages, smoked meats and other salumeria delicacies. Everything at Whole Beast Artisan Salumeria is made on premises, and I suspect they do as much local sourcing as possible. We ordered a few different things, and initial samples reveal a high quality and freshness simply not obtained via the big commercial meat producers. The neighbouring Village Butcher, which shares the store space, is the perfect place to get your raw meats and sausages.

Serious Coffee, 2060 Oak Bay Ave

This isn't my favourite Serious Coffee location, but when spending day in Oak Bay Village, it's a nice place to refuel and rest before the walk back into downtown. Certainly better than Starbucks, and it lacks the hipster-overkill vibe of nearby Discovery Coffee.

Pizza Zone: YRS' Faith In Pizza Delivery Restored

2011-10-29T11:42:00.000-07:00

Pizza Zone, 1806 Cook St, Victoria, BC

My recent musings on pizza seem to have sparked a healthy dialogue on the question of best pizza delivery in the city. Much as I love pizza, I'm not one to waste too much blog space on the question. I've tried most delivery pizzas over the years, and most suck, in my taste-cynical opinion.

At a wine-fuelled dinner party recently, a good friend made an almost Perry Mason-like opening statement, followed by closing argument in defence of the pie delivered by Pizza Zone. My first reaction was to the name of the place. What marketing genius came up with the name Pizza Zone? That really conjures up walks through the Tuscany countryside or romantic strolls along the cobblestone back-roads of Naples. But I listened intently to my friend, and he convinced me to give it a try. I'm glad I listened to him, glad I tried. Pizza Zone may now rank as among the 1% of really good delivery places in town.

Pizza Zone doesn't mess around with the 2-for-1 ploy. They do offer specials and deals for multiple pies, but their marketing research rightly informed them that quality can be more influential than quantity in winning new customers. Said strategy has worked, because they've just won YRS over.

We ordered the "420" (I can see why local pot-heads love this one), which has various quality meats, including real bacon bits! This was a point my friend emphasized - the first time he'd found real bits of actual bacon on his pizza, rather than the standard issue slabs of Canadian bacon. This real bacon does raise the sodium factor a fair bit, but sometimes this is okay, especially when the trade-off is real, crispy bacon! The other meats are not piled on and they are of high quality, unlike the disgustingly thick chunks of factory pepperoni and salami other places put on their pies. Clearly, Pizza Zone takes care in its creations. And I have to admit Zone's crust is a thing of beauty. It's thick (although they offer thin, too) crust, but light, airy, texturally near perfect; a qualitative leap from the heavy gluten bricks served by most other delivery places. I wonder if Zone ferments their dough multiple times to get that texture. Whatever they do, it works.

It turns out that names do deceive. Pizza Zone is not just another Domino, Pizza Hut or clever dream of a drunk marketing student. Zone's owners were actually inspired by a trip to Italy, specifically by "Mama Rosa." When I read the history blip on Zone's web site, I found it to be pleasantly romantic and sincere, rather than just another contrived Dragon's Den-like pitch:

It all began on a summer vacation in a small town in Calabria, Italy. Walking down the cobblestone streets was like walking back in time. We found this little restaurant called Mama Rosa. We were greeted by Mama Rosa herself, an older woman small in stature but larger than life. When I asked her for a menu, she laughed out loud and said "a great cook has no menu because a great cook can make anything".

My wife and I explained to her that pizza was our favorite food and that we wanted to have a real authentic Italian pizza. She walked back into the kitchen and later returned with a thin crust pizza lightly covered with cheese, calabrase salami, black olives, sun dried tomato and a hint of flavor that I have never tasted before. This was honestly the best pizza we ever had, truly a homemade Italian pizza. We returned home from our holiday, bringing back as much of Italy as we could. One of which was the "Calabria pizza recipe."

Mama Rosa we will never forget you and as promised your legacy will live forever.

Okay, maybe a tad corny. But you know what? In a world of crumbling financial markets, which were built on a toxic foundation of greed, deception, fraud, theft and lies, well, sometimes corny is called for. Indeed, corny is perhaps the only redeeming thing we have left in our failing empire.

YRS gives a big thumbs up to Pizza Zone and raises a glass of Chianti to Mama Rosa!

Discovery Coffee: A Tale Of Two Locations

2011-10-25T11:23:00.000-07:00

Discovery Coffee, 664 Discovery St, Victoria, BC

I wrote an article a year ago titled "The coffee culture meme is alive and well in Victoria," which includes a very short list of coffee places I like. After writing that article, I got a number of people telling me about this, that and the other place I'd neglected. I eventually did get to the much-talked-about Discovery Coffee at its original Discovery Street location. And I loved it. The place has a very relaxed, inviting vibe, and the coffee there is arguably the best I've had in Victoria. I was so moved by the beans I bought a pound to take home. And sure enough, the stuff tasted just as amazing at home as it did at the shop, which speaks to the importance of the roasting phase of coffee. I also found the staff at that location really well informed about their products, more than willing to answer questions about their on-site roasting process. The only reason I don't go to Discovery's original location more often is, well, it's location. I live and work on the other side of downtown, and there are just too many decent coffee places to keep me from venturing over to Discovery Street. Enter Discovery Coffee's new James Bay location, which is a stone's throw from my workplace, and thus, very doable on a regular coffee break basis.

Discovery Coffee (James Bay), 281 Menzies Street, Victoria, BC

The new location seemed to be under construction for months, promising that they were going to great lengths to construct the perfect cafe. In addition, a bakery (Hudson's) was to be part of the new package, as was "music," whatever that meant. A true cultural be-all for the city's coffee culture? As it turns out, this new location is a big disappointment, for me anyway. The space is very small, and they've gone with very large tables and chairs, making it very difficult to navigate your way around the cafe. Getting from the cashier counter to the cream/sugar counter, when the tables are full, requires the physique of an anorexic elf or skills of a gymnast. If your thing is to simply get a coffee to go, no problem. But if you are hoping to settle in for any length of time and relax, forget it. For me, a coffee place is about more than just the coffee. It's often about the space, the vibe and comfort level. As for the bakery, what bakery? I never see anyone in the "bakery," which looks more like a short order kitchen. And the selection of available baked goods has been very limited to date. Even the coffee at this location seems a lesser quality. If they were hoping to replicate their Discovery Street location, not even close. If they were trying for something completely fresh and new, why fix it if it ain't broke? As for the "music" promised on the awning, they run an LP record player, which is cool, but is that it? There is an elevated corner section of the cafe, which I suspect may play host to live shows at some point, but now it's just another cramped section of the cafe, which, by the way, always seems to be populated by cafe campers -- you know, the ones who bring a full day's homework, text books & notes spilled all over the place, laptops plugged in, cell phones charging, they order a single coffee then settle in for the long haul like it's their home away from home.

Thankfully, there remain other, established cafe options in James Bay. While they may not make the best cup of java, Serious Coffee just a few doors up from Discovery is by far the better space to sit and relax while getting your caffeine fix. They've got soft sofa options, ample seating, a fake fireplace, a decent menu and the owners are really nice and down to earth. If you really must have your Discovery experience, you are much better served going to their original Discovery Street location.

Sunday Letters, October 23 Edition

2011-10-23T11:59:00.000-07:00

Re: YRS in Seattle (Saturday, January 22, 2011)

Dear YRS,

I just found YRS via your Urbanspoon entry regarding Wild Ginger in Seattle.

Your review was dead to rights on. I'd read a few reviews before being convinced to go there for a friend's birthday party. I was 2 hours late (living across the Sound from Seattle means ferries are not always running when you want). By the time I arrived they were just getting seated, two hours after their reservation time! Good for me, but bad for the group. I would have walked out on this basis alone, but it was not my party.

The food was tasteless, overcooked and somehow almost cold when it reached our table. Bottom line: I wish I'd heeded your review and just stayed home last night.

The reviews of Rock Bottom, Benihana and Pike Place Brewery matched up with my own take as well. I've not tried Serious Pie, but based on your comments, I'm absolutely going to do that.

In closing, thanks for taking the time to document your food journeys. I'll be reading a lot more of your blog!

Cheers!

David
Seattle, WA

YRS Response:

David, many thanks for reading YRS and taking time to send me a note about your dining experience. Seattle is a great food town, and my YRS in Seattle report is hardly representative of the city's restaurant scene, but Wild Ginger did strike me as a place big on concept and facade, very small on actual food stylings and taste. I think it serves as much as a testament to good marketing, the kind that can have locals and tourists alike drinking the Koolaid and being easily awed by conceptual restaurant elements. As for Serious Pie, that's the best wood-fire oven pie I've ever eaten, far more complex and sophisticated than our own version in Victoria (Pizzaria Prima Strada). Incidentally, David, you have the distinction of being the first USA-based reader to be featured in Sunday Letters, so thanks for adding an international perspective to YRS.

Lady Marmalade: An Homage To Freshness And Quality In Retro-Hip Confines

2011-10-23T11:13:00.000-07:00

Lady Marmalade, 608 Johnson Street Map Victoria, BC

Imagine Cabin 12 or Flyod's Diner, but with a patchwork of random, time machine-obtained 1960's kitchen tables and chairs, which indubitably secures Lady Marmalade's retro-hip ambience among local hipsters. This was my first time dining here after countless walk-bys, and once inside the restaurant I was pleasantly surprised to discover an entire section hidden from passerby view.

We arrived yesterday around mid-day, which had us debating whether to go with breakfast or lunch. We ended ordering from both sides of the menu and shared it all. One distinctive feature of their eggs Benedict (we had the brie, avocado and bacon version) is the hollandaise sauce with its bright, cheerful incorporation of lemon. And when served on two free-run eggs, nothing wrong going on here. In fact, I'd say it's among the best eggs Benedict in the city. In addition to pan-fried potatoes, the well presented plate comes with a small cup of salad, which is a nice touch, and I suspect very intentional from a culinary vantage. This dish at most other places tends to be a sauce-rich, starch fest. Marmalade's addition of a salad has the vinegar in that salad nicely cutting the fat and starch in your stomach. It's the same reason sauerkraut goes so well with schnitzel, or why purple vinegary cabbage is almost a must with fatty roast duck. As such, Marmalade's eggs Benedict leaves one feeling satisfied, yet not food-comatosed and bloated.

Our lunch selection was the chicken club sandwich, which lacks the traditional third layer of toasted bread, so I'm more inclined to simply call it a chicken sandwich. Semantics aside, it's a good sandwich, especially the really chewy, fresh Wildfire Bakery sourdough bread. The accompanying potato & cheese soup was less of a highlight, more of an afterthought. But I've had worse soups with my lunches in this town.

What really stands out at places like this is the homage to freshness and quality ingredients. Consumers are increasingly smart about food quality and gone are the days when a kitchen can simply use Wonderbread and processed foods and hope to get away with it. The plate presentations at Marmalade are also a cut above, not what I expect for a hipster diner. Such attention to detail does end up making a difference, and my hat is off to Lady Marmalade for knowing this.

Some cretins on Urbanspoon have complained about the relatively long time it takes for a meal to reach the table at Marmalade, to which I reiterate what is written on the menu: "Good food, made to order, takes time, be patient." In other words, chill out. If you want fast food, go to McDonald's.

Sunday Letters, October 16th Edition

2011-10-16T13:13:00.000-07:00

Re: Pizza Then and Now: Slim Pickings (October 10, 2011)

Dear YRS,

In this review you mention that your own pizza recipe is better than 99% of all delivery establishments in Victoria. This compelled me to write you and request your recipe. I was succinctly denied.

I replied that you were making it difficult to establish if your 99% statement was true. You replied that it only has to be true to you. I proposed looking at your statement in the context of a music review.

If the reviewer stated in print that his own album is better than 99% of the albums he reviews, I would argue that such a bold statement should also come with a willingness to qualify it.

Your reviews have been very helpful to a Victoria newbie. I am discovering great restaurants and avoiding mediocre ones. I can sample a menu and agree that your reviews are 99% accurate. I can't do that with your recipe.

I wonder why you're not sharing? Afraid that I will write a review of your recipe? Is it really better than the other 99% and if so are you worried that it could be worth some real dough?

Seeing as how it's not likely that you would invite me over for a slice, I'm writing another plea for your recipe in the guise of a letter to the editor.

Honestly, I just like pizza. I like to eat good pizza. A better-than-99% pizza. Your pizza. I had hoped that our exchanges over the last 2 days would have resulted in you sharing your recipe with me. I am showing real effort here. Drive and dedication. Seriously, who else would write a letter to the editor just to get a damn pizza recipe?

It's proving more difficult than anticipated. Maybe impossible. Kind of like getting seated in a reasonable amount of time at Prima Strada on a Friday night.

It's been a slice.

Maki

Victoria, BC

YRS response:

First and foremost, thanks very much for reading YRS and taking the time to craft a very good letter in response to my pizza review. The key issue here is not my pizza recipe or my unwillingness to share it. The issue is my implied subjectivity in making that rhetorical 99% claim, and the fact I make that claim from the vantage of a consumer rather than a chef or food expert. As a consumer, if restaurant food (in this case pizza delivery) fails to inspire me, I try and do it myself, to my taste specifications. And that’s what I’ve done. Is my pizza recipe the best? For me, it beats 99% of the everypizza I’ve ever ordered in Victoria. Subjectivity aside, one thing I’ve learned via my cooking experiments at home is that using the best, freshest ingredients makes a big difference. And at the risk of turning this argument into a critique of pure reason, I have no control over the noumena of food or ingredients when I order pizza; I only have perceptual latitude over the phenonmena of those foods or ingredients. Perhaps I take more pleasure in the dialectical relationship between the two realms than the average pizza enthusiast.

Why not share my recipe? I don’t see the point. Even if I share it, and others say it sucks, my own subjective taste is still the final arbiter. There are lots of great home cooks and amateur chefs with blogs who do nothing but share recipes, so maybe that’s a more apt place to search out a good recipe. The last thing I want to do is turn YRS into a recipe blog. Nor do I have much interest in writing down recipes that exist in my head and emailing them to curious readers upon request. The best thing to do is to get to know me to the point that I'd have you over for pizza.

Your music analogy is interesting because I grew up during the mid-to-late 70’s punk era and so I have big place in my anarchist heart for the DIY philosophy. A lot of great and not so great bands emerged out of a wasteland of utter pop doldrums while yelling the mantra “disco sucks.” And a lot of those garage bands did truly believe their record or song was better than 99% of the crap on the radio, and some of them even created DIY zines to say as much. And most of the time, as a consumer of music, I agreed with their claims to greatness, or at least their claims to authenticity. But that misses the point. The point is, if you think something sucks, try and do it yourself, better.

YRS

Wah Lai Yuen: You Disappoint Me

2011-10-15T16:16:00.000-07:00

Wah Lai Yuen Restaurant, 560 Fisgard Street, Victoria, BC

Way before the Chinatown neighbourhood was gentrified, I used a rent a small apartment down an alley off Fisgard. One of the best places back then to eat at was Wah Lai Yuen Restaurant. Back then, the chicken curry on rice was legendary. Small pieces of succulent, bone-in curry chicken served atop a bowl of rice. The hot & sour soup and wonton & noodle soup -- also memorable. Not to mention the BBQ duck.

Having had a couple bad experiences in Chinatown restaurants in recent years, I'm a bit gun-shy about eating there these days. My expectations have especially diminished after a recent 2-week trip to Hong Kong, where I ate one amazing Chinese dish after another. But today I was feeling a bit nostalgic for the old 'hood, so decided to take a break from the Occupy Victoria rally and give Wah Lai Yuen a try (first time I've been back there in about 10 years). What a huge disappointment, nothing like the dishes I ordered back in the day.

Today's version of their curry chicken on rice should be renamed curry chicken skin on rice because there wasn't a single morsel of chicken meat to be found in the entire dish! It was all pieces of thick, fatty chicken skin. What gives? Were they trying to pull a fast one us due to a chicken shortage in the kitchen? My wife suspects they used chicken scraps for this dish. Chicken skin scraps, that is. When I brought this issue to the attention of our server, he looked genuinely perplexed, but he made no effort to remedy the issue. No offer to at least go get a few chicken meat pieces from the kitchen. No discount on the bill. To make matters worse, our wonton & noodle soup had no noddles! My wife and I clearly recalled speaking the order to the server, who clearly repeated it back to us, yet no noodles. And again, when we told our server of the error, there was no offer to remedy the issue in any what whatsoever. I think he said (with thick Chinese accent): "Oops, my bad."

Needless to say, I will not be going back to Wah Lai Yuen Restaurant to eat, or to relive my cherished bohemian youth in Chinatown.

Siam Thai Restaurant: Safe, Reliable Westernized Thai With No Wow Factor

2011-10-15T15:38:00.000-07:00

Siam Thai Restaurant, 512 Fort Street, Victoria, BC

Outside of Thailand, the best Thai restaurant I've ever been to was in San Francisco, so many years ago that I can neither tell you the name of that place nor the neighbourhood. I just remember a friend flagging us a taxi just outside of Golden Gate Park, driving through the night for about 15 minutes, getting out in a residential area, and walking into this place that ended up being one of those rare dining experiences -- thoroughly exquisite, from ambience to last bite of food. No Thai restaurant has since been able to match that experience. Siam Thai Restaurant at the lower end of Fort near Wharf Street doesn't even come close. But compared to other Thai places in town, it's not bad. One of my preferred Thai eateries remains the quaint My Thai Cafe.

At Siam we each ordered the same lunch combo, which included very good red curry (chicken) and a hearty mess of simple stir-fried vegetables. All of it was served piping hot, which I always appreciate; with stir-fry the quicker from pan to mouth, the better. In addition, we ordered a serving of spring rolls, which were indistinguishable from those had at other Thai restaurants. My problem with Thai places like this is the lack of any wow factor. It's safe, reliable, Westernized Thai cuisine served over and over and over again. Recalling that remarkable night in San Francisco some 20 years ago, there were all sorts of interesting elements at play, a vast array of condiments and sauces, several small courses of food and the slow eating process went on for a good 3 hours. But I digress....

I like that Siam has kept their trinket-ornament decor to a minimum, unlike the gaudy displays at some Thai restaurants. I also like Siam's big, spacious dining room and heritage red brick wall. The ceiling, however, looks like an unfinished work project. Wasn't sure what to make of the maze of box-shaped beams. Service was adequate, as was the price (under $10 for the set lunch).

On my way out I noticed all the Zagat stickers in the window, which boast all sorts of awards and travel guide recognition Siam has supposedly received over the years. This leaves me to conclude that either (a) these stickers don't represent actual visits by Zagat staff, (b) the stickers can be easily had by a restaurant becoming a paid member of Zagat, or (c) the Zagat staff, if they even came to Victoria, they didn't get out much beyond the tourist trap restaurant zone.

Pizza Then And Now: Slim Pickings

2011-10-10T11:45:00.000-07:00

In its heyday back in the early-to-mid 1990s, long before the wood-fired Neapolitan pizza trend reached Victoria, Pacific Rim Pizza in Market Square was king of the local pizza market. For us beer-addled drunkards stumbling home from Swans, getting a slice of Pac-Rim was simply a repeated rite of passage into the wee hours of dissipating intoxication. Or better, it was a sublime interval before the next set of drinks. Yes, back in that day, no other purveyor of the blessed pie came close to matching the gourmet heights of Pac-Rim Pizza. This was a place that bucked the 2-for-1 trend because they knew their product was superior; they knew pizza enthusiasts would shell out 25 bucks for a single large pie. And we did, countless times over the years. I'm not sure why this place closed. I just remember leaving the country for a few years, returning to find it had vanished.

It's almost unfair to pit different styles of pizza against one another in comparing, but even long after its death, Pacific Rim is still, posthumously, the best pizza in town, and I'd stand on Pizzeria Prima Strada brick oven with dirty fireproof boots and say as much.

Since those beer-fuelled late nights of my youth, and especially after Pac-Rim closed, I've taken a more active interest in perfecting my own pizza recipe, mostly because I discovered over time that I could make a much better, healthier product than 99% of the places that delivered. But on occasion I still like to order in or grab a slice from a local vendor.

Brickyard Pizza, 784 Yates St, Victoria, BC

For a slice or three, I like Brickyard Pizza (next to the Odeon Theatre). However, this place is prone to temperamental fits of inconsistency. I've been in there times when the available slices looked like waxed over slices of day-old McCain frozen pizza. And when I see that, I usually just turn right around and leave. But when these guys are on their game, their slices come very close to the legendary Pac-Rim of yore. Not quite as good, but close enough to tickle my taste buds' collective memory. They serve cheap pints of local micro-brew, including Phillips, which does provide incentive to sit and linger, maybe order that fourth slice after your fifth pint.

Delicious Pizza, 3388 Douglas St, Victoria, BC

Pizza delivery is a bit trickier because there are so many options, most of which are ubiquitously bad. On the advice of one of Victoria's top chefs (who will remain nameless), we've ordered pies from Delicious Pizza a couple of times now and we like it. As far as we know, this place is family owned and operated, which is always preferable to a chain. Delicious does a tandoori chicken pizza, which is surprisingly tasty. I've had curry flavoured pizza before, but this one is the best. Their House Special is also good. The ingredients are fresh and the spice blends and sauce aren't salted into oblivion. It's not as good as Brickyard's best effort, and not as good as my homemade pie, but for a 2-for-1 delivery, Delicious Pizza is reliable, about as good as you're going to get in this city.

Shine Cafe: Great First Impression

2011-10-03T16:23:00.000-07:00

Shine Cafe, 1320 Blanshard St, Victoria, BC

If you can get past the mustard yellow & tangerine orange McColour palate at Shine Cafe (Blanshard location), you quickly realize how vastly more appealing this renewed space is compared to the space under former occupant - Demitasse. Demitasse became increasingly filthy and run down over the years and by the time it closed it was just waiting to be put out of its misery. New tenant Shine has revived the space, spruced it up, giving it a much appreciated second life, and if my lunch there today was any indication of the menu at large, I say shine on you crazy diamond!

I'm hearing great things about Shine's breakfasts, which could put up a serious challenge to the hugely overrated other breakfast/brunch spots in that part of downtown. And with the pulled pork fad becoming so last year, Shine also threatens to steal business from the much over-hyped Pig BBQ directly across the street. Compared to Pig BBQ's mono-dimensional menu, the highlight of which is cold meat and bad sauce, Shine's menu is a breath of fresh air.

What Shine has going for it is an already well established, well liked restaurant up on Fort Street, thus it has that all important word-of-mouth street cred. Shine also has that family owned, local flavour that consumers increasingly seek out; they serve Fernwood coffee and Silk Road tea products, among other locally sourced foods.

The chicken club sandwich on sourdough (which I shared with my better half) was fresh, vibrant and extremely well balanced. The accompanying onion rings were nicely battered, crispy and delicious.The price ($12) is midway between the more expensive and cheaper clubhouse sandwiches to be had in town. I noticed that the daily breakfast sandwich listed on the specials board was selling for a mere $4.75, so no price point complaints from YRS. Service was good. I'm very much looking forward to a return visit, next time for breakfast.

Saigon Harbour Restaurant: Disappointing

2011-10-03T16:11:00.000-07:00

Saigon Harbour Restaurant, 1012 Blanshard St, Victoria, BC

Located on the fiercely competitive lunch row (Blanshard Street, near Fort), I've long bypassed Saigon Harbour Restaurant in favour of other eating places in this area, until today. The question is further complicated by the fact there are at least 4 other Vietnamese places in that general vicinity, and as I've said before, not all pho or spring rolls are created equal. My favourite pho in Victoria's downtown remains Vietnam House near the Odeon Theatre.

As it turns out, we picked a bad day to visit Saigon Harbour Restaurant. Arriving around 1pm, we were crestfallen to learn they were completely out of their beef broth pho menu items, which is akin to entering a microwbrewery, only to be told they were out of beer. We persevered, ordering a rice noodle & spring roll dish and a bowl of chicken broth & rice noodle. Both were disappointing, and the spring roll dish had a meagre fraction of the amount of noodles the dish normally contains when ordered elsewhere. We also shared a salad roll, which contained pressed ham and came with a much-too-runny peanut sauce (watered down peanut butter?).

We left disappointed and hungry, which is actually why we ended up going to Shine Cafe immediately after (see review posted above).

Awesome Coffee Is Simply Awesome!

2011-09-27T14:07:00.000-07:00

Awesome (Organic) Coffee, 717 Douglas Street, Victoria, BC

The various small businesses that have occupied the street level spaces at the historic Crystal Garden building sure haven't had much success over the years. Not sure why this is. It's close to the tourist zone, right across from the city's main bus station and has a captive audience with the BC Transit stop directly in front. There's a brand new tenant in place and I hope he succeeds because the cup of java I had at Awesome Coffee blew me away the other day! It was as good, maybe even better than anything I've had at places like Discovery or Habit. The owner says everything in the shop is organically sourced:

"Designed for people on the go. Organic coffee, tea, juice, pop, iced coffee, iced mango/peach/apple juice and packaged snacks. Everything is organic down to the cream and sugar."

It's true, he even keeps the organic milk in a mini-fridge to prevent it from curdling. He is hoping to phase in some more substantial lunch foods once he finds a baker who can supply him with organic sandwich bread at a reasonable price, but for now it's all about the organic coffee.

The Black Hat: All The Ingredients Of A Future Dining Institution

2011-09-24T15:32:00.000-07:00

The Black Hat, 1005 Langley St., Victoria, BC

Newly opened, The Black Hat is located in a sleepy quarter of downtown between Wharf Street and Government, so not only will this breathe vibrant life into that area, it will serve as a much needed antidote to nearby tourist trap restaurants. Indeed, Chef Sam Chalmers says he "built this restaurant for Victorians," to which I say hallelujah! The Black Hat's spacious, geometrically pleasing interior design should serve as a template for anyone else wanting to open a restaurant in downtown Victoria. So often, restaurateurs go way over the top in allowing their own ego, rather than a good concept, to influence the design and floor plan, but not Chalmers. The open floor plan, with kitchen and bar in full view, is a minimalist marvel that makes great economy of space. The Black Hat's food concept is kept equally simple: Fuse traditional bistro with upscale restaurant in a casual, relaxed setting and do it with West Coast cuisine creativity and flare. It should be noted that Chalmers didn't just pull this idea out of a hat (excuse the pun). He's been operating the very successful Bistro28 in Oak Bay for some time now, and with culinary school training and work at several restaurants under his belt, he's no doubt done his time in the industry trenches. I'm going to crawl out on a limb here and predict that this new Chalmers venture may soon solidify the Northern BC born chef as one of Victoria's brightest, most talented culinary stars.

We arrived last night for a late dinner, and how often can you say that in Victoria? Most of this city's eating places, outside of bars or pubs, shut down at 9pm, 10 or 11 if you're lucky, but Chalmers keeps the doors open until midnight, which I think is smart scheduling and in time will pay off as locals catch on.

The Black Hat's menu is ambitious, perhaps a bit too ambitious for my personal liking. I prefer having my choices narrowed, confined to a single sheet or two. Nonetheless, there's an interesting range of dishes here, with all main ingredients locally sourced.

We started with the Beef Tartare (Mixed with Shallot, Capers, Preserved Lemon, Egg Yolk & Parsley), a rare treat in this city. I don't think I've seen it on the menu anywhere else in Victoria. Chalmers' version is just as good as any I've had.

We then enjoyed the Qualicum Beach Scallops (with Marinated Red Beets, Horseradish Vinaigrette), which were seared to absolute perfection. The culinary malpractise of overcooked shellfish is so rampant that I almost expect my orders, even at reputable places, to have the consistency of tough rubber.

Next was the charcuterie sampler plate. Ever since viewing a video of Chalmers (from his Bistro28 web site) making blood sausage from scratch, I've wanted to try his charcuterie creations. All but one of the meats on our plate were prepared in house and all were excellent, especially the silky smooth pâté. Driftwood Ale proved to be a great companion for this plate.

Wanting to leave room for dessert we decided to share a main, and like the scallops, our Grilled 10 oz Heritage Angus Striploin (with Truffled Frites & Mayo) was cooked to perfection, as requested (medium-rare). The fries could have been cooked a tad more, but in the grand scope of the evening, this is a very minor quibble.

The two desserts we shared (seasonal tart and a creamy chocolate/caramel brûlée) were great finales for the evening. I was pleasantly surprised how well the liberal amount of salt played into the brûlée. The combination of chocolate and salt has to be one of the great unsung marriages in the dessert realm.

The Black Hat is not for the faint of wallet. Our total for the aforementioned, which included a couple pints of ale each, rang in at $130 before tip. In my opinion you get everything, and more, you pay for here. The menu is structured in a way that allows you to sample without spending too much. But it also allows you to go all out if you've got cash to burn or are seeking a place for that special occasion. They have a Wagyū (Kobe style beef) steak that will cost you $130, but if it's anything like the kind I had in Kobe, Japan, it's every bit worth the money.

Most of you who read YRS regularly know I'm pretty jaded when in comes to Victoria's restaurant scene. When I issue a rave review, it's usually for good reason. It's a bold -- some might say foolish -- time to open a restaurant as the local and global economies sit on the brink of another serious recession. If Chalmers can weather this economic storm, I truly believe The Black Hat has the potential to become the downtown core's next big thing, dare I say future dining institution?