You're feeding me what?

Easy Home-Prepared Dog Food

noreply@blogger.com (Terri Oak) — Mon, 27 Jun 2016 02:20:00 +0000

Easy Home-Prepared Dog Food

How to make and feed your dog a complete and balanced diet.

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By Mary Straus

Over the past few months, I have offered diet critiques that tweaked good home-prepared diets in order to address health concerns – or simply to optimize the diet. To do this, I analyzed the diets and compared them to the National Research Council’s guidelines for canine nutrition. I want to be clear, though: I don’t believe this is a requirement for feeding a homemade diet. Just as with the diet you feed yourself and your family, feeding a wide variety of healthy foods in appropriate proportions should meet the needs of most healthy dogs.

Problems arise with how this description is interpreted. Too often, people think that they’re feeding a healthy diet when key ingredients may be missing or are fed in excess. Here are specific guidelines to help ensure that the diet you feed meets your dog’s requirements.

Complete and Balanced

It’s important that the diet you feed your dog is “complete and balanced,” meaning it meets all of your dog’s nutritional needs. It is not important, however, that every meal be complete and balanced, unless you feed the same meal every day with little or no variation.

Home-prepared diets that include a wide variety of foods fed at different meals rely on balance over time, not at every meal. Similar to the way humans eat, as long as your dog gets everything he needs spread out over each week or two, his diet will be complete and balanced.

A human nutritionist would never expect someone to follow a single recipe with no variation, as veterinary nutritionists routinely do. Instead, a human would be given guidelines in terms of food groups and portion sizes. As long as your dog doesn’t have a health problem that requires a very specific diet, there’s no reason you can’t do the same for your dog.

Keep in mind that puppies are more susceptible to problems caused by nutritional deficiencies or excesses than adult dogs are. Large-breed puppies are particularly at risk from too much calcium prior to puberty.

GUIDELINES

Following are guidelines for feeding a raw or cooked homemade diet to healthy dogs. No single type of food, such as chicken, should ever make up more than half the diet.

Except where specified, foods can be fed either raw or cooked. Leftovers from your table can be included as long as they’re foods you would eat yourself, not fatty scraps.

Meat and Other Animal Products: Should always make up at least half of the diet. Many raw diets are excessively high in fat, which can lead to obesity. Another potential hazard of diets containing too much fat: If an owner restricts the amount fed (in order to control the dog’s weight) too much, the dog may suffer deficiencies of other required nutrients.

Unless your dog gets regular, intense exercise, use lean meats (no more than 10 percent fat), remove skin from poultry, and cut off separable fat. It’s better to feed dark meat poultry than breast, however, unless your dog requires a very low-fat diet.

Raw Meaty Bones (optional): If you choose to feed them, RMBs should make up one third to one half of the total diet. Use the lower end of the range if you feed bony parts such as chicken necks and backs, but you can feed more if you’re using primarily meatier parts such as chicken thighs. Never feed cooked bones.

Boneless Meat: Include both poultry and red meat. Heart is a good choice, as it is lean and often less expensive than other muscle meats.

Fish: Provides vitamin D, which otherwise should be supplemented. Canned fish with bones, such as sardines (packed in water, not oil), jack mackerel, and pink salmon, are good choices. Remove bones from fish you cook yourself, and never feed raw Pacific salmon, trout, or related species. You can feed small amounts of fish daily, or larger amounts once or twice a week. The total amount should be about one ounce of fish per pound of other meats (including RMBs).

Organs: Liver should make up roughly 5 percent of this category, or about one ounce of liver per pound of other animal products. Beef liver is especially nutritious, but include chicken or other types of liver at least occasionally as well. Feeding small amounts of liver daily or every other day is preferable to feeding larger amounts less often.

Eggs: Highly nutritious addition to any diet. Dogs weighing about 20 pounds can have a whole egg every day, but give less to smaller dogs.

Dairy: Plain yogurt and kefir are well tolerated by most dogs (try goat’s milk products if you see problems). Cottage and ricotta cheese are also good options. Limit other forms of cheese, as most are high in fat.

Fruits and Vegetables: While not a significant part of the evolutionary diet of the dog and wolf, fruits and vegetables provide fiber that supports digestive health, as well as antioxidants and other beneficial nutrients that contribute to health and longevity. Deeply colored vegetables and fruits are the most nutritious.

Starchy Vegetables: Veggies such as potatoes, sweet potatoes, and winter squashes (including pumpkin), as well as legumes (beans), provide carbohydrate calories that can be helpful in reducing food costs and keeping weight on skinny and very active dogs. Quantities should be limited for overweight dogs. Starchy foods must be cooked in order to be digestible by dogs.

Leafy Green and Other Non-Starchy Vegetables: These are low in calories and can be fed in any quantity desired. Too much can cause gas, and raw, cruciferous veggies such as broccoli and cauliflower can suppress thyroid function (cook them if you feed large amounts). Raw vegetables must be pureed in a food processor, blender, or juicer in order to be digested properly by dogs, though whole raw veggies are not harmful and can be used as treats.

Fruits: Bananas, apples, berries, melon, and papaya are good choices. Avoid grapes and raisins, which can cause kidney failure in dogs.

Grains: Controversial, as they may contribute to inflammation caused by allergies, arthritis, or inflammatory bowel disease (IBD); as well as seizures and other problems (it’s not clear whether starchy vegetables do the same). Some grains contain gluten that may cause digestive problems for certain dogs. Many dogs do fine with grains, however, and they can be used to reduce the overall cost of feeding a homemade diet.

Grains and starchy veggies should make up no more than half the diet. Good choices include oatmeal, brown rice, quinoa, barley, and pasta. White rice can be used to settle an upset stomach, particularly if overcooked with extra water, but it’s low in nutrition and should not make up a large part of the diet. All grains must be well cooked.

SUPPLEMENTS

Some supplements are required. Others may be needed if you are not able to feed a variety of foods, or if you leave out one or more of the food groups above. In addition, the longer food is cooked or frozen, the more nutrients are lost. Here are some supplements to consider:

Calcium: Unless you feed RMBs, all homemade diets must be supplemented with calcium. The amount found in multivitamin and mineral supplements is not enough. Give 800 to 1,000 mg calcium per pound of food (excluding non-starchy vegetables). You can use any form of plain calcium, including eggshells ground to powder in a clean coffee grinder (1/2 teaspoon eggshell powder provides about 1,000 mg calcium). Animal Essentials’ Seaweed Calcium provides additional minerals, as well.

Oils: Most homemade diets require added oils for fat, calories, and to supply particular nutrients. It’s important to use the right types of oils, as each supplies different nutrients.

Fish Oil: Provides EPA and DHA, omega-3 fatty acids that help to regulate the immune system and reduce inflammation. Give an amount that provides about 300 mg EPA and DHA combined per 20 to 30 pounds of body weight on days you don’t feed fish. Note that liquid fish oil supplements often tell you to give much more than this, which can result in too many calories from fat.

Cod Liver Oil: Provides vitamins A and D as well as EPA and DHA. If you don’t feed much fish, give cod liver oil in an amount that provides about 400 IUs vitamin D daily for a 100-pound dog (proportionately less for smaller dogs). Can be combined with other fish oil to increase the amount of EPA and DHA if desired.

Plant Oils: If you don’t feed much poultry fat, found in dark meat and skin, linoleic acid, an essential omega-6 fatty acid, may be insufficient. You can use walnut, hempseed, corn, vegetable (soybean), or high-linoleic safflower oil to supply linoleic acid if needed. Add about one teaspoon of oil per pound of meat and other animal products, or twice that amount if using canola or sunflower oil. Olive oil and high-oleic safflower oil are low in omega-6 and cannot be used as a substitute, although small amounts can be added to supply fat if needed. Coconut oil provides mostly saturated fats, and can be used in addition to but not as a replacement for other oils.

Other Vitamins and Minerals: In addition to vitamin D discussed above, certain vitamins and minerals may be short in some homemade diets, particularly those that don’t include organ meats or vegetables. The more limited the diet that you feed, the more important supplements become, but even highly varied diets are likely to be light in a few areas.

Vitamin E: All homemade diets I’ve analyzed have been short on vitamin E, and the need for vitamin E increases when you supplement with oils. Too much vitamin E, however, may be counterproductive. Give 1 to 2 IUs per pound of body weight daily.

Iodine: Too much or too little iodine can suppress thyroid function, and it’s hard to know how much is in the diet. A 50-pound dog needs about 300 mcg (micrograms) of iodine daily. Kelp is high in iodine, though the amount varies considerably among supplements.

Multivitamin and mineral supplements: A multivitamin and mineral supplement will help to meet most requirements, including iodine and vitamins D and E, but it’s important not to oversupplement minerals. If using the one-a-day type of human supplements, such as Centrum for Adults under 50, give one per 40 to 50 pounds of body weight daily. Note that most supplements made for dogs provide a reasonable amount of vitamins but are low in minerals, and so won’t make up for deficiencies in the diet. Be cautious with small dogs; I’ve seen some supplements that recommend the same dosage for 10-pound dogs as for those weighing 50 or even 100 pounds. In those cases, the dosage is usually too high for the small dogs and should be reduced. Products made for humans are also inappropriate for small dogs.

Green Blends: Often containing alfalfa and various herbs, green blends may be especially helpful if you don’t include many green vegetables in your dog’s diet. You can also use a pre-mix that includes alfalfa and vegetables, such as The Honest Kitchen’s Preference. Note most pre-mixes also supply calcium, so you should reduce or eliminate calcium supplements, depending on how much of the pre-mix you use.

13 Household Items Toxic to Dogs

noreply@blogger.com (Terri Oak) — Thu, 26 May 2016 23:01:00 +0000

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1. Xylitol

Xylitol is a low-calorie sweetener that is derived from birch trees. It was first created in Finland during World War II, when sugar supplies were interrupted. Xylitol has a lot of dental benefits for humans, including the prevention of cavities, dental plaque, dry mouth, and bad breath. It also has the unique ability to remineralize tooth enamel. You can find xylitol in candy, nasal sprays, mouthwash, gum and as an artificial sweetener. Dogs, however, should not consume xylitol. In dogs, xylitol causes a rapid drop in blood sugar. This can cause seizures in dogs, which sometimes lead to death.

2. Chocolate

While the rule that the darker the chocolate, the healthier it is may be true for people, the opposite is true for dogs. Chocolate's problem ingredients are theobromine and caffeine, which dogs absorb through their gastrointestinal tracts too fast and put damaging stress on the liver. In dark chocolate, these naturally occuring ingredients are more concentrated and are likely to lead to serious problems, death included.
Note: Cocoa powder, in some cases, can be as concentrated as dark or baking chocolate. Even cocoa bean shell mulch, a popular garden product, can be toxic when swallowed by chocolate-craving chow hounds.

3. Grapes and Raisins

The toxicity of grapes to dogs is still not really understood by scientists. Reactions vary from dog to dog. Some dogs can eat grapes regularly and never have problems. Accidentally eating a few grapes probably won't affect a dog of any size. But when ingested in siginificant quantities - as little as 2.5 ounces - this fruit can cause kidney failure.

4. Onions

Onions and their cousins, garlic, are rich in a compound called thiosulphate, which is toxic to dogs. Being much more thiosulphate-potent than garlic, onions pose a threat to dogs if they eat just a single serving - about one good-sized onion. Thiosulphate causes hemolytic anemia ("Heinz factor") in dogs, a condition that bursts red blood cells.
Symptoms of hemolytic anemia can develop in a range of time - generally within a few hours, but can be after a few days. Signs of hemolytic anemia include depression, weakness, no interest in food, vomiting and diarrhea. In a progressed case, the dog's urine will become red from damaged blood cells. As oxygen-carrying red blood cells die off and leave the dog's body, the dog becomes suffocated.

5. Garlic

Garlic is a tricky one because when used topically and sprinkled over food, it is great for dogs. It fights ear infections, internal infections, boosts immune systems and lowers blood sugar. But it also contains thiosulphate.
Many holistic veterinarians and health care experts believe that feeding doses up to 1 small clove of garlic per 20 pounds of body weight per day are not likely to pose problems for dogs. When uses topically for wounds or ear infections, it is harmless. If your dog were to eat a whole head of garlic, on the other hand, see Onions above.

6. Macadamia Nuts

The good news is that we have no documented cases of macadamia nut poisoning that has led to death. It alleviates after it passes through the dog - in around 12 to 36 hours. The bad news is symptoms are dramatic. Hind-end weakness, lethargy, depression, vomiting, and diarrhea all come after eating as little as 1 gram of macadamia nuts per pound of a dog's body weight.

7. Unbaked Yeast

Raw yeast cells multiply too quickly for dogs' gastrointestinal tracts. When dogs swallow unbaked dough, it can continue to rise, creating a risk of blockage or even rupture of the dog's GI tract. In instances when a very large amount of yeast is eaten, the yeast also ferments inside the dog, producing alcohol, in which case alcohol poisoning can occur.
If you bake breads from scratch, or have yeast in your kitchen for any other reason, remember to keep it - rising dough in particular - in a safe, dog-proof location. And if your dog swallows any, call your veterinarian immediately.

8. Zinc

Dietary zinc is an important mineral, but dogs don't need very much at all - about 80 to 120 parts per million on a dry weight basis. Dogs can suffer acute zinc toxicity through eating pennies, topical medications like zinc oxide, and other zinc-coated objects around the house. Things like these contain large amounts of zinc - much more than anyone should ingest. Zinc toxicity in dogs can lead to gastroenteritis, hemolytic anemia, inflammation, and possible necrosis (destruction of tissue) of the liver, kidney, and pancreas.
Zinc toxicosis is often confused with acute gastrointestinal episodes because the dog may be rejecting food or lethargic, while having vomiting and diarrhea episodes, either of which may be bloody. If the object swallowed is too small, it might not be visible in X-rays. Also depending on size and consistency, you may not be able to tell whether the dog vomited the object or passed it in feces. Zinc-medicated ointments and shampoos aren’t visible in X-rays the way pennies are.

9. Vitamin D Ointments

Not just ointments, but Omega-3 supplements, multivitamins, and other topical creams are full of Vitamin D, which, when ingested in toxic amounts, cause a rapid buildup of calcium and phosphorous in dogs' bodies. Too much calcium and phosphorous lead to the mineralization (hardening) of internal tissue, most often in the kidneys, heart or gastrointestinal tract. At best this causes kidney stones; at worst it brings acute kidney failure. If your dog has eaten any kind of topical ointment, call your animal hospital and Poison Control.

10. Wild Mushrooms

In the U.S., toxic mushrooms are divided into categories based on the severity and nature of poisons they contain. Mushrooms in the Amanita family, the most dangerous category, for example, will cause the thorough destruction of cells in the liver and kidneys, often before any visible symptoms arise. But the syndrome-inducing portfolio of various fungi is diverse, and it is worth it to know what mushrooms are prevalent in your area. Inspect your property for mushrooms in the spring and fall, and keep a particularly curious dog leashed on walks through nature.

11. Nutritional Supplements

This one relates to #9. Any supplement or health product marketed for humans was not manufactured with dogs in mind. Fat soluble vitamin capsules - A, D, E - are toxic to dogs because their bodies do not process these substances in the same way and because dogs are a lot smaller than humans. The 500mg pill of Vitamin D, for example, has a lot more room to spread in a 165 lb. human than in a 35 lb. dog.

12. Prescription and OTC Drugs

Sure, some veterinarians prescribe Alprazolam (generic Xanax) or Tramadol to dogs with severe anxiety. The effects of these human benzodiazepines on dogs is more or less the same. What about all the other drugs sitting around an average household? Some people will say NSAID pain killers are fine for dogs, but Aleve and acetaminophen drugs like Tylenol have sent countless dogs to the hospital. Antidepressants like Prozac can cause serious sedation and seizures. Amphetamines like Ritalin cause circulatory collapse, heart arrhythmias, and seizures. Opiates will do what they do to any living thing who's overdosed: shut down the respiratory system and the heart.

13. Toothpaste

A common ingredient in toothpaste is xylitol, but there are other dangers presented here for dogs. As children, we were probably all warned about swallowing the toothpaste when we brushed our teeth. The fluoride, we were told, was good for teeth but toxic to our stomachs. It is no different in dogs, except they never get the memo to not eat it. They just see us putting it in our mouths everyday. Fluoride poisioning can be fatal to dogs if it's severe, attacking the stomach and intestines.

Always keep potentially harmful items in closets, drawers, or cabinets that your dog can’t open, not on a table or countertop or in a bag left on the floor. Make sure your kids understand these rules. And always supervise your dog’s play indoors and out.

Let's go for a walk! Dog walking etiquette

noreply@blogger.com (Terri Oak) — Tue, 24 May 2016 00:43:00 +0000

Our dogs love to go for walks. We enjoy spending time out with our four-legged companions, and they love the sights and sounds and smells. It should be a pleasant and safe experience, but like anything else, there are rules. Follow them and all is well. Ignore them….well, things could get ugly.

What sort of rules, you ask? Just what is proper etiquette when walking your dog in a public area? Let’s take a look at the guidelines we all should follow when walking with our best friends.

First of all, most communities require two things:

1. Your pet must be on a leash at all times
2. You must clean up after your pet when they leave “presents” behind.

Those two should be easy, but you’d be surprised how many dog owners don’t follow those basic rules. Even those of us who love dogs don’t want other people’s pets leaving messes on their lawn. Make sure to always carry an adequate supply of plastic bags to pick up the poo.

Most cities have leash laws, requiring all pets to be on a leash when out in public. This serves a couple purposes. It keeps your pet under control (or should) at all times. Even the most obediently trained dogs can react to something sometimes that might make them leave your side. You certainly don’t want your dog running up on people. You risk your dog biting someone, or at the very least, scaring someone or knocking them down. If they run up on another dog, a fight could ensue. The leash not only protects people from unwelcome contact with your dog, it also protects your dog from situations where he might be injured or lost. An unleashed dog could bolt into traffic, with tragic results, or run away and become lost.

Always, ALWAYS leash your dog.

If your dog makes a mess, clean it up. It’s that simple. Many cities have regulations regarding this as well, but, even if they don’t, it’s just common courtesy. No one wants to walk out in their yard and step in dog poo (especially on your front lawn where your own dog does not go).

Some of your neighbors might take issue with your dog going potty on their yard even if you do clean it up. Always be considerate of those who don’t welcome strange dogs on their lawn, and keep to the sidewalk if needed.

Those two issues aside, there are other things to be aware of.

One of the most important things is, simply, know your dog. Know what he or she likes and dislikes. Does he hate the mailman? Does she go bonkers over squirrels? Does he want to pick a fight with other dogs he sees? Knowing your dog’s behavior is essential. Don’t put your dog in a situation that causes you to lose control of him. Don’t walk your dog in areas that might be trouble spots for him. A properly socialized dog is crucial. Otherwise, you will spend the whole time trying to control an unruly pet and the experience will be stressful and unpleasant for both of you.

If you notice another dog walker approaching who does not have their dog under control, it might be best to change course or step aside and allow them to pass at a safe distance. Even if the other dog is under control, be cautious. If it is a dog you aren’t familiar with, avoid letting the two run up on each other. Even the friendliest dog can have a negative reaction to another dog at times.

Don’t forget, not everyone loves dogs. Don’t let your leashed dog run to or jump on other people you pass. They may not welcome the contact. Keep your dog close to you. If they want to pet your dog, be sure your dog is welcome to the attention of strangers before allowing it. Never risk your dog biting someone.

Lastly, if you don’t have the time or energy to walk your dog, consider hiring a dog walker. There are many services out there. An Internet search for dog walking services in your area should turn up quite a few options. Do your research and make sure it is a reputable service before hiring a dog walker.

Following a few basic rules will create a safe and enjoyable experience for both you and your dog.

Grains . . . Good or Evil?

noreply@blogger.com (Terri Oak) — Thu, 21 Apr 2016 03:12:00 +0000

Grains . . . Good or Evil?

Excerpted from Raw Dog Food by Carina Beth MacDonald

Dogs are not engineered to gain a significant portion of their nutrition from grains. This explains the large, soft stools excreted by most kibble-fed dogs. It is clearly processed poorly by the dog. Many vets agree that corn, wheat and soy may cause allergies, skin and coat problems. Overfeeding grains may be a big factor in the frequency of canine obesity today. This in turn may cause or aggravate many other health problems.

Grain-based diets promote bad dental health and that can lead to systemic infections and weakening of all major organs. I have seen that 85% of all dogs over the age of three suffer from periodontal disease, largely from feeding a soft mushy kibble diet. One of the first benefits of a raw diet, often noticed within a couple of weeks, is improved breath and whiter teeth. I always gave my dogs plenty of raw chew bones when I was feeding kibble, thinking that was enough. It wasn't. Once I gave my kibble away and went 100% raw, my older dogs' breath became sweeter within days, and their teeth steadily became whiter and cleaner.

Yes, there are decent kibbles on the market. You are probably feeding one now. However, all contain grain in one form or another, and a cornerstone of the raw feeding concept is that grain is wholly unnecessary for dogs. Grains are often used as fillers, and are the "glue" that holds the other ingredients in those little pellets. They provide, at best, an inexpensive, low quality protein source. Most grains are poorly digested, hence the large smelly poops they produce. Dogs did not evolve to eat grain, yet this is mainly what we have been feeding them for the last sixty years or so. Kibble contains cooked, often low quality ingredients that have had most of the nutrients, enzymes, and antioxidants "boiled" right out of them. These nutrients are then often replaced by synthetic supplements. Dogs have absolutely no need for such a high carbohydrate diet. A wolf eats very few carbs. Added to this, most run-of-the-mill kibbles are often so laden with Preservatives and salts that the dog has to drink tons of water.

Where there are allergies, yeast infections, GI upsets, poor dental health, obesity, and cancer, grain may be the major culprit.

11 Ways You're Shortening Your Dog's Life

noreply@blogger.com (Terri Oak) — Thu, 12 Nov 2015 04:53:00 +0000

Help Your Dog Live Longer by Avoiding These Things by Nicole Pajer

As pet parents, we like to think that we are providing a healthy, happy life for our dogs. We feed them top quality food, give them lots of love, and toss the ball around the backyard whenever we have the time. But there is a lot more that goes into raising a healthy pup. And sometimes, our busy lifestyles cause us to overlook some simple measures that could help to extend the lifespan of our canines.

The good news, however, is that all of this is repairable and it’s never too late to bump up the level of care that we put into raising our pets. Pets360 tapped the minds of several experienced veterinarians across the nation to get their input on ways we may inadvertently be shortening our dog’s lives.

Letting your dog gain too much weight

According to the Association for Pet Obesity Prevention, an estimated 53 percent of dogs were overweight last year. In addition to that, the association found that 95 percent of the owners of these obese dogs incorrectly identified their pets as being at a normal weight. As Dr. Shari Brown, a veterinarian in Chesapeake, Virginia, notes, letting your dog get too heavy can not only reduce his life span but also his quality of life. “People do not realize that dogs do not process or break down food like we do,” she explains.

For example, when a dog eats 1 ounce of cheddar cheese, it is equivalent in calories to a human eating 1.5 hamburgers or 3 chocolate bars. And it’s not just people food that presents the issue—some dogs are simply being fed too much dog food or treats. “I tell owners to treat each treat like a candy bar. Would you give your child 8 candy bars a day? I’m guessing not,” Dr. Brown adds.

Solution: Dr. Brown advises limiting the amount of people food you give to your pup and making sure that you are correctly monitoring his intake of kibble. She also recommends that pet parents increase their obese pets' exercise routines, even if that means getting creative. “If it is cold outside or the owner is unable to exercise much, put a leash on your dog and take them for a few laps around your backyard or house. Or put a leash on them and take them for a tour around the inside of your house,” says Dr. Brown. “Anything to get him moving.”

If the weight still isn't coming off, consult your veterinarian, as they may want to put your pet on a dietary program. Your vet may also be able to help identify an underlying disorder, like hyperadrenocorticism or hypothyroidism, that may be contributing to weight gain.

Neglecting canine dental care

Periodontal disease (gum disease), is a common problem in dogs. As the American Humane Society reports, veterinarians estimate that 85 percent of dogs over five years of age suffer from the condition, which develops after food and bacteria collect along the gum line and form plaque in a dog’s mouth. A build-up of oral bacteria can ultimately lead to all sorts of health problems for your pet, including heart valve problems and infections within the kidneys.

Solution: Dr. Jeff Werber, owner of Century Veterinary Group in Los Angeles, CA, recommends grabbing a toothbrush and scrubbing your dog’s teeth as often as you can.

“It's not that difficult to brush your dog's teeth (the finger brush works great) and there are chew toys and bones that assist in reducing plaque, as well as water additives that help maintain oral health,” he explains. It’s also a good idea to schedule a visit with your veterinarian for a professional cleaning session at least once each year, says Dr. Werber.

Skipping annual check ups

While it may be a pain to cart your dog into the veterinarian on an annual basis, doing so may save his life. “Simply getting your dog seen once or twice a year by a veterinarian can help improve life span,” says Dr. Brown, who stresses the importance of annual physicals even for seemingly healthy dogs. “Even if your dog is acting normally, something could be brewing inside,” she explains. And in the case of a dog’s heath, time is of the essence. “In some cases, by the time symptoms appear, there isn’t much we can do. But if we get treatment started early, that can help to improve a dog’s quality and quantity of life,” Dr. Brown adds.

Solution: Experts, including Brown, recommend taking your pup in for an annual or bi-annual physical (especially for dogs over the age of 7). If there have been underlying conditions in the past, pet parents should ask for yearly blood work to follow up on such ailments. Dr. Werber also urges dog owners to keep their pets up to date on vaccinations to protect them from rabies, canine distemper, parvovirus, adenovirus, parainfluenza, and bordatella.

Not providing daily exercise
Just because your pet played hard at the dog park on Monday doesn’t mean that you can forgo giving him any exercise until Thursday. According to Dr. Kim Smyth, Petplan staff veterinarian, exercise not only helps to keep the weight off, it also provides mental stimulation for your pup. She also explains that keeping up your pet’s fitness routine gives him a healthy way to expel energy.

Solution: “Find an activity you and your dog both enjoy and work it into your daily routine,” says Dr. Symth. “As an added bonus, people who exercise with their pets tend to lose more weight themselves; it’s a win-win!” And if you don’t have time to drive to the dog park five days a week, mix up your routine. Take your dog on walks around the block, toss the ball in the backyard, or play a game of hide-and-seek in your house.

Exposing your dog to second-hand smoke

Just like humans, canine lungs are not equipped to handle smoke being blown at them all day. According to Dr. Werber, second-hand smoke can be extremely detrimental to pets, causing all sorts of ailments, such as an increased cancer risk and harmful respiratory issues.

Solution: Obviously the ideal way to tackle this situation is to abstain from smoking yourself. But if the habit is important to your lifestyle, then it’s a good idea to make sure that you do it away from your dog. Keep your dog in the house while you go outside on the patio to have a puff.

Forgetting about heartworm and flea and tick prevention                    These measures are just as important as remembering to keep up with your dog’s vaccinations. “Flea, heartworm, and tick control is critical,” says Dr. Patrick Mahaney, of California Pet Acupuncture and Wellness (CPAW), Inc. These tiny critters spread diseases, some of which are life threatening. Fortunately there are many prevention options available from your veterinarian—from collars and topical spot-ons to oral medications.

Solution: Dr. Mahaney urges pet parents to purchase only veterinary approved products and to follow the recommended dosage guidelines. Dr. Werber also suggests that dog owners set reminders in their calendars for when their dogs are due for their next dose of preventive treatment.

Pushing certain breeds too hard

Small and toy dog breeds, as well as brachycephalic (short-nosed) breeds, have very different exercise requirements than other types of dogs. For instance, English Bulldogs, French Bulldogs, Pekingese, and Boxer types should not be exercised in extreme heat, says Dr. Mahaney, as it can be life threatening to them.

Solution: Make sure to speak to your veterinarian about how much and what type of exercise is best for your breed. And if you feel like your dog is trying to tell you that you are overdoing his workout, listen to him. Symptoms such as excessive panting, dropping to the ground in the middle of a workout, or lethargic (weak and tired) tendencies mean that you should stop and let your dog rest immediately.

Feeding your dog table scraps

“In addition to adding extra (and unnecessary!) calories to your dog’s diet, pet parents risk inducing pancreatitis by feeding their dog fatty table scraps,” says Dr. Smyth. Many foods that humans consume are extremely high in fats and sugars compared to what our pets should be exposed to. In addition, certain human foods—including garlic and chocolate—can be toxic to pets if consumed.

Solution: If you have a hard time saying no to those pleading eyes, offer your dog a healthy treat like baby carrots or apple slices. If your dog begs at the table, feed him his meal in another room while the family eats dinner to cut down on under-the-table handouts.  Pet parents should also take a moment to familiarize themselves with what foods are considered dangerous for dogs.

Letting your dog outside unsupervised       Letting your dog roam free without you watching opens the door for a whole world of possible tragedies. “Cars, coyotes or other predators, unscrupulous people—they're all out there,” says Dr. Werber. “Don't let your dogs roam the streets unattended, even if they are tagged and microchipped.”

Solution: Keep your dog on a leash at all times when walking him outside. If you take your dog to the park, be a responsible pet parent and make sure to monitor his play sessions, says Dr. Werber. And if you notice a coyote or a potential predator, remove your dog from the situation immediately.

Not socializing your dog Dogs who fail to get socialized don’t get the same “bite” out of life as their happy, socialized counterparts, says Dr. Werber. “They often develop anxiety and fear-related issues, even dermatologic issues, and they don't enjoy walks in the same way,” he explains. “Similarly a dog that has no human interaction, no fun, no playtime, can get depressed.”

Solution: Take your puppy at a young age (once he is fully vaccinated and cleared by your veterinarian) to training classes and puppy meet-ups where he can get to know other dogs. Let your dog stop and greet other dogs while out on a walk or host other dogs in your yard for puppy play dates.

Not spaying or neutering Experts like Dr. Mahaney agree that forgoing spaying and neutering can be dangerous to your dog’s health. “Spaying and neutering is still the best way to guarantee reducing the risk of several cancers, let alone the behavioral issues you can see with intact dogs,” he explains.

Additionally, each heat cycle that a female dog goes through makes her more prone to the development of mammary cancer, says Dr. Werber. Intact males are also more likely to develop prostatic diseases and testicular cancer than their neutered counterparts.

Solution: You can arrange to have a spay or neuter procedure done at your local veterinary office. If cost is an issue, there are many clinics that offer low cost procedures; call your local pet clinics and shelters to find out when they are having a special on the procedure. And as far as when to have the procedure done, there are different guidelines for different breeds. “There have been many modifications made with regards to large breed dogs [and] when is the best time is,” says Dr. Mahaney. “For this reason, you should discuss and plan the procedure out with your vet.”

Pet Wallet Card - A great idea

noreply@blogger.com (Terri Oak) — Sun, 26 Apr 2015 01:24:00 +0000

What would you do if you were ever in an accident, or worse, and couldn't tell anyone that you have pets at home that need to be taken care of?

Print this out and carry it in your wallet or purse. You can be assured that your pets will be cared for in the event that you are unable to.

Make up your mind!

noreply@blogger.com (Terri Oak) — Mon, 16 Feb 2015 03:20:00 +0000

Here in this House ~ what a dog's life should be like

noreply@blogger.com (Terri Oak) — Sat, 14 Feb 2015 15:33:00 +0000

The Beagle Freedom Project

noreply@blogger.com (Terri Oak) — Wed, 28 Jan 2015 23:48:00 +0000

Did you know that today, across the United States, there are nearly 65,000 dogs (most of them beagles) sitting in cages being used to test cosmetics, pharmaceutical drugs, household products, and academic curiosities with little to no hope of getting out alive. These tests are often very painful, and frequently result in the death of the dog.

Did you know that over 95% of the dogs in lab testing are beagles, one of the top 5 most popular family dog breeds in America? Beagles are popular with families because of their sweet and docile nature. Sadly, it is these same qualities that make research facilities consider them to be ideal test subjects.

Beagles are the most popular breed for lab use because of their friendly, docile, trusting, forgiving, people-pleasing personalities. The research industry says they adapt well to living in a cage, and are inexpensive to feed. Research beagles are usually obtained directly from commercial breeders who specifically breed dogs to sell to scientific institutions.

If you knew how many of the products you use every day are tested on animals, you would be shocked. Testing done on beagles in university and other research facilities includes medical/pharmaceutical, household products and cosmetics.

The Beagle Freedom Project is a mission to rescue beagles used in animal experimentation in research laboratories and give them a chance at life in a loving forever home.

When they are no longer wanted for research purposes, some labs attempt to find homes for adoptable, healthy beagles. Working directly with these labs, Beagle Freedom Project is able to remove and transport beagles to place them in loving homes. All rescues are done legally with the cooperation of the facility. Find out here how to foster or adopt one of these rescued dogs.

Anyone interested in fostering or adopting a lab beagle should be aware of the challenges these dogs have. They will not be accustomed to life in a home and will not have experience with children, cats, or other dogs. They will not be house-trained and accidents will happen, although they learn quickly. Many have gone directly from a commercial breeder to the lab, and have never felt grass under their feet or even seen the sun. They will have been fed a special diet formulated for lab animals and may be difficult to adjust to new foods. They will be unfamiliar with treats, toys, bedding and may never have walked on a leash. They will have lived in cages with steel wire floors and may have inflamed or infected paws from the pressure. They may be fearful of people initially and may have phobias from a lifetime in confinement or from being restrained. They are likely to have been surgically de-barked by the breeder and have an ID number tattooed in their ear. Please also be aware that although these beagles are considered healthy, you will be given very little information about the beagle’s medical history, and you will not be told its origins or what kind of testing they may have been used for.

With time, patience, play, companionship, love – and most of all, freedom – these dogs will learn how to become dogs, and their transformation will be amazing.

The hope is that they can encourage more research labs to release animals and give them a chance at life, instead of destroying adoptable pets.

There are many things you can do to get involved.
The link above gives a list of ways to participate in the project.

One very important thing you can do is sign the Beagle Freedom Bill.

Beagle Freedom Project’s important legislative push to enact laws that would ensure research facilities can give dogs used in laboratory testing a chance at a life after research.

Finally, follow the Beagle Freedom Project on social media and share, share, share!

Risky Mistakes Pet Owners Make

noreply@blogger.com (Terri Oak) — Wed, 07 Jan 2015 23:28:00 +0000

Letting Your Dog Walk You

A poorly trained dog can pull you over while you’re out for a stroll. According to the CDC, tens of thousands of people end up in the ER every year because of pet-related falls. Many of these falls occur during walks -- either when a person trips over a dog or is pulled or pushed by one. Experts say obedience training is the best way to make sure your pooch doesn’t take you down during the morning walk.

Overlooking Ticks

After a walk in the woods, you check yourself for ticks, right? Don't forget about your dog. Tick bites put your dog at risk for Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain spotted fever, and a handful of other diseases. They can also cause serious illnesses in cats. If your pet has infected ticks, this puts the rest of the family at risk. If you find a tick, remove it carefully with tweezers, being careful to get all of the head and not to crush it. Ask the vet about tick control.

Ignoring Ringworm

If your pet has a round bald patch, ringworm could be to blame. Leave this fungus untreated, and you're putting your family at risk. People can get ringworm from dogs or cats by touching their skin or fur. Ringworm usually causes a reddish, ring-shaped rash on the skin or bald spots if it infects the scalp. If your pet has hair loss, take him to your vet to see if it could be ringworm.

Not Bothering to Deworm

Roundworms are common parasites in both dogs and cats. They cause diarrhea and vomiting and may lead to serious illness. But many people don't realize these worms are a threat to humans, too. An infected pet can contaminate soil or sand with tiny eggs. Kids may ingest the eggs by putting dirty fingers in their mouths. When the worms hatch inside people, they can cause blindness and other tissue damage. Ask your vet about regular deworming.

Skipping Flea Medicine

Skip your pets' flea medicine, and they aren't the only ones who will pay the price. Fleas will quickly set up shop on untreated pets, particularly in summer and fall, and fill your house with their eggs and young. Some people wind up covered in itchy sores. Fleas can also transmit serious diseases to people including bubonic plague. Ask your vet about long term flea medication and put a routine reminder on your calendar.

Not Spaying or Neutering Your Pet

Millions of cats and dogs live on the street or end up euthanized because of unwanted litters. Still, many people are reluctant to spay or neuter their pets. The fact is, spaying and neutering is a healthy choice for your pet. It reduces the risk of breast cancer in females and testicular cancer in males. Neutered males are also less likely to run away from home, mark their territory, or exhibit aggressive behaviors.

Keeping the Food Bowl Full

With the best intentions, some people keep their pets' food bowls full at all times. This is one of the most common mistakes pet owners make. The problem is that cats and dogs often eat more than they need. If food is constantly available, they will take in too many calories and put on too much weight. To avoid this, follow the suggestions on the pet food label or ask your vet for guidance.

Providing Too Little Exercise

Just like people, pets need exercise to stay healthy. Couch potato pets are prone to obesity, which raises their risk of respiratory problems and joint problems. The right amount of exercise for a dog depends on the breed and size, but vets recommend at least a half-hour each day. Taking brisk walks with your dog can help you get in shape, too.

Misreading Body Language

Sure, you love your dog. But do you really understand him? If you think a wagging tail is always a good sign, you could be in for a nasty surprise. When a dog wants to threaten someone, he may hold his tail high and wave it stiffly back and forth. Mistake this warning for a sign of playfulness and you could get bitten. To avoid misunderstandings, learn about your pet's body language.

Providing Too Little Attention

Just like children, your pets will get bored if you don't play with them. And boredom can lead to troublesome behaviors like chewing, digging, barking, and whining. Bored cats may resort to scratching and excessive meowing. Fight boredom by hiding treats for your pets to find around the house. Provide toys your cat can chase. Teach dogs to play fetch, tug-of-war, or hide-and-seek.

Not Socializing Young Pets

It's important to provide puppies and kittens with positive human interaction during their first seven weeks of life. This includes handling and play that fosters trust in people. Reputable breeders will begin this interaction, and you can continue the process when you bring your pet home. To develop a strong bond, play with your new puppy or kitten every day.

Leaving a Dog Alone Too Long

Spending 8-10 hours alone in a crate, tiny laundry closet, or even outdoors is too much for most dogs. It can lead to separation anxiety and destructive behaviors including chewing, soiling, digging, and nonstop barking or howling -- even depression in a timid dog. Better choices are doggie day care, a mid-day visit from a pet sitter, or a canine companion. Adult dogs can go 4-5 hours in a crate but need exercise before and after.

Setting No Rules

Some people expect their pets to know right from wrong without being told. But human etiquette does not come naturally to dogs and cats. You need to make it clear that jumping up on people, scratching the furniture, and peeing on the carpet are unacceptable. Be consistent about the house rules, and reward your pets for good behavior. If you need guidance, consult a trainer promptly.

Scolding Pets for "Accidents"

If you come home to find a puddle of pee on the floor, you may have the urge to yell at your pet. But animal behavior experts say this will do no good at all. The transgression took place in the past, and your dog or cat won't know why you are yelling. A better strategy is to praise your pets immediately when they do their business where they are supposed to.

Leaving Young Kids Unsupervised

Most children adore animals, but sometimes their enthusiasm can lead to someone getting hurt. Young kids may play too rough, pushing a dog or cat to strike out in self-defense. Be sure to supervise play time when a new pet joins the family. Set rules for how children should treat the pet and teach them to recognize the signs that a dog or cat wants to be left alone.

Letting Dogs Eat Spoiled Food

Your dog may be tempted to rifle through the neighbor's garbage in search of a treat, but don't let her! Food gone bad is no healthier for pets than it is for people. Dogs who eat garbage are at risk for bacterial food poisoning or irritation of the pancreas. Spoiled food may also contain toxic mold, which can cause vomiting, severe tremors, seizures, and death.

Giving Bones to Dogs

We may think of bones as a wonderful treat for dogs, but the FDA paints a different picture. The agency warns that chewing on bones can injure the teeth, tongue, or mouth. Bones can also get stuck in the digestive tract, where they will have to be removed with surgery or an endoscope. If your dog likes to chew, ask your vet about safer alternatives.

Feeding Dogs Table Scraps

It can be hard to resist a dog that's begging at the table. You look into those big eyes and want to share your food with your pet. But rewarding your dog's barks or whines will only encourage more begging in the future. And then you can forget about quiet dinners with your family. If you want to share table scraps as an occasional treat, do it away from the table -- and use the food as a reward for good behavior. Also, some human foods can be toxic to pets.

Having No Disaster Plan

If an emergency forces you to evacuate your home, what will you do with your pets? Leaving them behind is not an option if your community is threatened by fire, flooding, or hurricane-force winds. And not all Red Cross shelters allow you to bring your pets. It's best to identify pet-friendly shelters and motels ahead of time, so you can keep your pets with you during an emergency.

Information from WebMD Pets
Reviewed by Amy Flowers, DVM on October 03, 2014

Pet Vaccinations: Understanding Vaccinations for Your Cat or Dog

noreply@blogger.com (Terri Oak) — Fri, 21 Nov 2014 20:18:00 +0000

By Bill Hendrick
WebMD Pet Health Feature

Many pet owners and some animal scientists believe that we are over vaccinating our pets. They also think that some shots may be doing more harm than good. One type of cancer in cats, for example, is known to be caused by vaccinations. In addition, vaccines can cause allergic reactions.

Because reports and rumors of side effects have become so widespread, pet owners increasingly are asking their vets about whether or not to vaccinate. Andy Smith, DVM, a long-time Atlanta veterinarian, says he has “this conversation with a client twice a week. It’s clear there’s a lot of confusion and concern.” So WebMD went to some top veterinary experts to find answers you can use in sorting out your own concerns.

Why do pets need vaccines?

Vaccines protect against contagious, potentially fatal diseases, says Margret Casal, DMV, PhD. Casal is associate professor of medical genetics at the School of Veterinary Medicine, University of Pennsylvania. Vaccines trigger immune responses, she says, and prepare pets to fight future infections.

Casal tells WebMD that vaccines have saved millions of pet lives. And even though some once common diseases are now rare, she says veterinary groups agree that many vaccines are still necessary.

Is there a vaccination controversy?

Yes, says Andrea Looney, DVM, of Cornell University. Some experts advocate yearly shots, others every three years, and a few believe no more vaccines are needed after the first year.

Looney says it’s similar to controversies over human vaccines. “There’s a lot of talk,” she says, “but no evidence [of widespread harm].”

Casal says fears sparked by this “over vaccination” controversy have led many pet owners to skip shots for preventable diseases, causing an alarming rise in pet deaths.

So should all dogs and cats still be vaccinated?

“Absolutely,” says Ronald Schultz, DVM, a pioneer in clinical immunology at the University of Wisconsin-Madison. But Schulz is also very much in agreement with those who say pets are being over vaccinated, calling it a “serious problem.” Often, he says, pets are vaccinated by vets who just want to keep clients coming in. But too many vaccines, especially when given in “combo shots,” can “assault” immune systems.

Is it true that vaccines can even cause cancer?

In cats, definitely, says Richard Ford, DVM, professor of veterinary medicine at North Carolina State University. Ford says most but not all scientists believe the culprit is a chemical called an “adjuvant” that’s added to some feline vaccines. “Many [scientists] strongly recommend to avoid using any cat vaccine that is labeled ‘killed’ or ‘inactivated.’ All feline vaccines labeled in this way contain adjuvant. Vaccine labeled ‘attenuated’ or ‘recombinant’ does not contain adjuvant.”

Years ago, vets started noticing tumors forming in the area between the shoulders, where cats are vaccinated. The tumors are rare, occurring in 1 in 1,000 to 1 in 10,000 cats. Veterinarians now give this type of vaccine low on a cats' front or hind legs so they can amputate if a tumor develops, potentially saving the cats' life.

Vaccines can definitely cause cancer, says Luci T. Dimick, DVM, of The Ohio State University. She says feline leukemia is caused by a virus and is listed as a “non-core” disease, meaning that it is not regarded as one for which vaccination is essential. Yet many vets feel kittens should be immunized against feline leukemia virus, even though it’s one of the injections, along with rabies, thought to cause cancerous tumors in some cats.

What about other types of reactions?

Vaccines can make pets sick and lethargic and induce diarrhea, Casal says. Fatal reactions, though, are rare. But the controversy over the potential for reactions to the vaccines, she points out, has resulted in a backlash that could have serious consequences. “Sadly,” she says, “some pet owners or even vets just trash a lot of vaccines.” That means some pets aren’t getting the protection they need against disease. “We’ve seen this in people,” Casal says, “which is why we’re seeing more mumps and measles.” Any treatment carries some risk, she says.

Kate Creevy, DVM, is a specialist in small animal internal medicine at the University of Georgia. She says it’s not known why some animals have reactions to vaccines while others don’t. “It may be true that some breeds are more prone to vaccine reactions than other breeds, although this is debatable.”

The most common adverse reactions are mild and short-term, including reduced appetite, fever, and swelling at the point of injection. Allergic reactions appear within minutes or hours and may include vomiting, diarrhea, swelling, and difficulty breathing.

Is there consensus about the major diseases pets face?

Yes, Creevy says. For dogs, they are:

parvovirus, a life-threatening illness that causes vomiting, diarrhea, and white blood cell destruction
distemper, also a life-threatening illness that causes vomiting, diarrhea, pneumonia, and seizures
adenovirus, a life-threatening illness that causes hepatitis
eptospirosis, which causes kidney and liver failure
parainfluenza and Bordetella, which cause kennel cough and are highly contagious, with generally non-life-threatening symptoms that include coughing and runny nose
rabies, a fatal central nervous system disease that can spread to owners. There is no cure for rabies and pets diagnosed with it are euthanized.

Major diseases for cats include:

panleukopenia (also known as feline distemper), which is life threatening, causing vomiting, diarrhea, dehydration, and low white blood cell count
feline leukemia virus, causing chronic immune suppression that can lead to cancer
herpesvirus and calicivirus which are both highly contagious but rarely life threatening, causing runny eyes, runny nose, fever, and malaise
eline immunodeficiency virus (FIV), a retroviral disease that causes chronic immune suppression

Cats infected with FIV may appear normal for years. But eventually FIV will hinder their ability to fight off other infectious diseases.

But does the fact pets might be susceptible mean they need vaccination?

No, says Schultz. “Lifestyle and location play important roles. If your dog lived on the fifth floor of an apartment building, it wouldn’t have to worry about kennel cough, unless it is kenneled or taken out to be around other dogs. And your dog won’t get Lyme disease in many areas of the country. Ask your vet.”

Leptospira is a life-threatening bacterial infection. Disease outbreaks are usually caused by exposure to water contaminated with the urine of infected animals, including rats, cattle, pigs, horses, and deer. “If your dog doesn’t go hunting, or if it’s not around other animals, there’s no need [for it to be vaccinated," Schultz says. Also, this vaccine causes more adverse reactions than many others, so it's important to weigh the risk versus benefit when deciding if you pet needs it.

Vets talk of “core” and “non-core” vaccines. What’s this mean?

Core vaccines are those that are universally recommended and most commonly given. Non-core vaccines are optional, according to protocols set by major veterinary organizations.

Parvovirus vaccine is core, and dogs should get a minimum of three doses between six and 16 weeks, administered at intervals of three to four weeks. The final dose should be given at 14-16 weeks. Then the dog needs a booster a year later followed by revaccination every three years.

Other core vaccines for dogs are those against rabies, distemper, and adenovirus-2. Non-core vaccines include those to ward off Bordetella, parainfluenza, Leptospira, and Lyme disease.

What are the core vaccines for cats?

All kittens should be vaccinated as early as six weeks of age against panleukopenia, the feline form of parvovirus, and also for herpesvirus, rabies, and calicivirus.

Non-core vaccines are for protection from feline leukemia, feline immune deficiency virus, chlamydophilia, and Bordetella.

Why has the topic of pet vaccination become so hot?

Part of the intense focus on pet vaccination stems from the highly publicized debate that vaccines may cause autism in people, a discounted but widespread theory.

Also, new vaccines and research “show that some of the routinely administered vaccines for dogs and cats actually immunize for much longer than one year,” Ford says. “Today, selected vaccines are recommended to be administered to adult pets every three years.

Some veterinarians have expressed reluctance to implement triennial (every three year) vaccination, until there is more information available," Ford says.

Would I be playing doctor to put my pet on an alternate schedule?

“Alternative vaccination schedules for kittens and puppies are not recommended,” Ford says. “However, among adult dogs and cats, alternative re-vaccination schedules are feasible.”

Are there any alternatives to just doing what vets say?

Yes. Do some research to arm yourself to ask good questions. You also can ask for blood work, called titer testing, a tool to help assess the status of your pet’s defenses against specific infections.

How can you tell if a vet is a good one?

“If they take time to explain vaccines and ask about your pet’s lifestyle, I’d say that’s a good vet,” Casal says. “If you have one who doesn’t want to hear questions, that’s not where you want to be.”

Does the federal government require rabies shots?

No. Only 39 states require rabies vaccines for dogs and 31 for cats, according to a 2008 survey by the National Association of State Public Health Veterinarians.

Even within states, rabies requirements vary widely, says Charles Rupprecht, VMD, PhD. Rupprecht is chief of the rabies program at the CDC. The disease is fatal in animals but can be cured in humans who seek medical help immediately after exposure to an infected animal.

What is “vaccinosis”?

“The term has no scientific or medical meaning and is no doubt an attempt to discredit vaccines,” says Henry J. Baker, professor emeritus of veterinary medicine at Auburn University and editor-in-chief of the Journal of Medical Education.

Eating Grass....why does my dog graze?

noreply@blogger.com (Terri Oak) — Tue, 25 Jun 2013 22:08:00 +0000

Dogs do a lot of things that we don’t really understand, one of which is eating grass. Why do dogs eat grass?

Firstly, dogs eating grass is actually very common. Wild dogs as well as domestic dogs will eat vegetation sometimes. One study showed that approximately 75% of dogs had eaten grass or plants at some time…grass being the most commonly eaten plant.

Okay, so my dog’s behavior is not unusual. But WHY do they eat grass?

There many theories as to why dogs eat grass.

It may be nothing more than a natural behavior. Dogs are, in a certain sense, omnivores. Before being domesticated, dogs ate whatever they could hunt or scavenge. They would eat whole prey animals, including meat, bones, organs, and the content of the stomachs, which more often that not included plant material. This provided a balance diet for the dog. Wild dogs still eat vegetation in addition to prey items.

Sometimes dogs eat grass as a means to make themselves throw up. Perhaps the dog has an upset stomach, or even something such as acid reflux, making them uncomfortable. Vomiting often makes them feel better. Most often the dog will not act sick, so it is hard to know why they are doing it. The majority of dogs that eat grass, however, do not throw up. In fact, studies show that only about 25% of dogs that eat grass vomit regularly after doing so. One interesting study reveals that the way dogs eat grass makes a difference. Dogs that eat grass slowly and chew it rarely get sick. Dogs that eat grass rapidly and swallow it without chewing almost always throw up. Whether this is on purpose or not is not know for sure, but it certainly seems to be deliberate on the dog’s part.

One of the beagles I have now will sometimes run out into the yard, quickly gobble down a few mouthfuls of grass, and promptly throw it up. Once he does that, he seems fine and eats his meal with no problem.

Another theory is that dogs eat grass as means to improve digestion by adding fiber to their diet. Grass can also provide some nutrients that may be missing from some commercial diets.

Other theories include grass eating from boredom, or a condition called Pica, which is a compulsion to eat items that are not edible. If your dog exhibits anxiety before eating grass, it may be the result of a psychological condition. A vet should be consulted to determine if there is a medical condition underlying the anxiety. There are ways to treat anxiety with either medication or behavioral training.

Lastly, dogs may eat grass simply because they enjoy it. Just as humans eat some foods simply because they enjoy the taste and/or texture, dogs may be doing exactly the same thing. If this is the case, the dog will rarely ever vomit. I once had a terrier that would graze like a cow, happily munching on grass and leaves to her heart’s content. Never once did it make her sick. She simply liked it.

Should grass eating be something to worry about?

The general consensus is that grass eating is not anything to be concerned about. If your dog eats grass and throws up often, it is best to let a vet determine if there are health issues behind the behavior. If you have a grazer like my terrier, there is no reason to interfere with their grass eating, but keeping an eye on them is always a good idea.

There are instances where grass eating should be avoided. Often lawns are treated with chemicals. Herbicides and pesticides used on lawns are quite toxic, especially if ingested. The dog may ingest the chemicals by eating the grass, or by licking their paws after walking on treated grass. Treated areas should be avoided at all cost. The ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center can help if you think your dog has ingested these chemicals. They also have a list of toxic plants that your dog should never eat.

If your dog is eating grass, carefully monitor its behavior and seek veterinary advice if there seems to be health or behavioral issues. Keep your dog away from treated areas, and keep an eye on the types of plants they are eating.

More often than not, your dog is just doing something dogs have always done. In most cases, there is nothing to be concerned about.

Warning about dangerous cocoa mulch!!

noreply@blogger.com (Terri Oak) — Tue, 28 May 2013 02:06:00 +0000

Warning about cocoa mulch!!!!

Ask the Vet: Pet First-Aid

noreply@blogger.com (Terri Oak) — Fri, 05 Apr 2013 11:29:00 +0000

Ask the Vet: Pet First-Aid

10 Things You Can Donate to a Shelter

noreply@blogger.com (Terri Oak) — Sat, 23 Mar 2013 00:34:00 +0000

10 Things You Can Donate to a Shelter

noreply@blogger.com (Terri Oak) — Fri, 15 Mar 2013 12:53:00 +0000

5 Tips for Safe Car Travel

When it comes to taking our pets for rides in the car, it’s only natural that some will be more into it than others. But whether you have the dog that loves to stick his head out the window and catch a breeze, or the cat that is intent on scratching through the upholstery on your backseat, there are some ways you can ease the stress on everybody and plan for a more pleasant ride:

Make sure your pet is secured while you travel. Never leave your pet (especially your cat) free to roam around the car. There are many options for safely securing them—from harnesses to car seats to crates and carriers. Find what works best for you and use it every time your pet rides with you in the car.

Keep a pet kit in the car. Fill a small box with some things you might need while out with your pet: extra water, treats, a towel, waste bags, first aid essentials, and cleaning wipes (if you’ve ever had a pet get sick in your car, you know that the more cleaning aids you have on hand the better!). Keep the kit in the trunk of your car so you know that you’re always covered in an emergency.

Get your pet used to the ride. Some pets take to car rides right away, while others are a bit more resistant. Start your pet off with short drives around the block to get them comfortable, and by the time you need to take them somewhere further away, they’ll know what to expect.

Never leave your pet alone in the car. It doesn’t matter what the weather is like outside or how short of a time period you’ll be gone, leaving your pet alone in the car is incredibly dangerous. Even with the windows open, cars can easily become furnaces in hot weather, and in cold weather, they quickly become frigid without the heat blasting. Always choose to be safe rather than sorry and avoid ever leaving your pet alone in the car.

Don’t feed your pet a huge meal before setting out. Same goes for giving your pet a lot to drink. We all know how easy it is to get a little car sick—avoid the possibility of making your pet miserable on a long car ride by only feeding light meals. If you can, try to not feed your pet in the three to four hours prior to setting off.

5 Most Harmful Substances for Pets

noreply@blogger.com (Terri Oak) — Fri, 08 Mar 2013 12:40:00 +0000

5 Most Harmful Substances for Pets

Get Ready to Adopt

noreply@blogger.com (Terri Oak) — Fri, 01 Mar 2013 20:13:00 +0000

Get Ready to Adopt

How to Choose a Kid-Friendly Family Dog

noreply@blogger.com (Terri Oak) — Fri, 22 Feb 2013 05:38:00 +0000

How to Choose a Kid-Friendly Family Dog

In the age-old “cat people versus dog people” debate, the votes have been tabulated and the results show that your household is a “dog family.” The only problem is that you don’t actually have a family dog. Remedying the situation provides everyone in the household with companionship and entertainment, helps to teach kids about the responsibility of caring for another living thing and puts a stop to the endless begging, cajoling and whining for a dog. The only thing left to do is choose your dog, but how do you make such a big decision?

Do Your Research
Before you make a selection, you’ll need to have a bit of basic knowledge at your disposal. Purebred dogs purchased from a breeder may have a genetic disposition for certain health problems, but their personalities can be predicted more precisely when they’re still puppies. Mixed breed dogs tend to be healthier than their purebred counterparts, but may be a bit more difficult in terms of personality and predictability.

Visit a Shelter or Breeder
Choosing to adopt from a shelter rescues a dog that may otherwise be euthanized, allows you to brag about making a socially-conscious choice and gives you the option of adopting an adult animal, rather than a rambunctious youngster in need of training. Purchasing a puppy from a reputable breeder allows you to select a particular breed and bring home a young animal that you can train to suit the needs of your family. Whichever route you choose, you should make a few kid-free visits before making a decision so you can observe the environment the dog is accustomed to, learn more about their individual personalities and make an informed decision before the younger members of your family become attached to a dog that’s ultimately a bad fit with your collective lifestyle.

Think About Your Family Routine
Choosing the right dog for your family will require you to carefully examine the routine of your household. If everyone is away from the house for hours on end, you may want to select a more independent animal that requires less affection and dedicated play time. If you homeschool, have kids that haven’t yet reached school age and one parent stays home, you can comfortably select a dog that requires more attention.

Consider the Age of Your Youngest Child
If you have a toddler or infant that doesn’t yet respond well to verbal direction, you’ll need to make sure that the dog you bring into your home is patient and mature. In these situations, an adult dog may be more suitable than a puppy. Breeds that are known to be anxious, like Chihuahuas, will almost certainly be too nervous when the boisterous attention of a very young child is focused on the dog.

Realize That Babies and Puppies Don’t “Grow Up Together”
The idea that your baby and your puppy will “grow up together” is a charming one, but it’s just not feasible most of the time. Juggling the demands of an infant with those of an untrained, excitable puppy can easily prove to be overwhelming, which is why so many great dogs find themselves in a shelter. An adult dog may be a better choice for families with very young children, while a charming puppy is fine for households with older kids that can understand the proper handling and treatment of a fragile, high-energy puppy.

Keep Size in Mind
The adorable pup that fits in the palm of your hand will one day grow up, and its size will have an impact on how you care for it. Remember that even Saint Bernards start off relatively small, but they grow quickly and can be too much for a small household with young children. Before you fall in love with a puppy at the shelter, try to determine how big it will be when it reaches adulthood. A Great Dane-sized animal simply won’t fit in a small apartment.

Choosing a dog is an exciting milestone, but it’s not a trial-and-error situation. Surrendering a dog because he isn’t right for your family will almost always endanger his life, a situation that simply isn’t fair to the defenseless dog in your care. Rather than making an impulsive choice that you later discover was a bad one, take your time and determine exactly what sort of dog will be best for your family. When you’re patient and committed to making the right choice the first time, you’re making a wonderful addition to your family and are not risking the life of an innocent animal.

How to Give Medications to Dogs

noreply@blogger.com (Terri Oak) — Sun, 10 Feb 2013 04:57:00 +0000

How to Give Medications to Dogs

Don’t give your dog any medication until you have spoken to your veterinarian to make sure it is the right medicine for the dog and the circumstances. You should also ask for instructions on how to give the drug and the correct dosage for your dog.

Pills, Capsules and Tablets

To give a dog a pill, slip your thumb into the space behind one of the canine teeth and press upward on the roof of the mouth. As the mouth begins to open, press down on the lower jaw with the opposite thumb. Alternatively, press in on both lips from above the muzzle. As the skin pushes in behind the canines, the dog will open her mouth.

Insert the pill well to the back of the tongue in the middle of the mouth. If you place the pill too far forward or to the side of the tongue, the dog will spit it out. Close the dog’s mouth and massage or rub her throat until she swallows. If the dog licks her nose, the pill has been swallowed. Blowing briefly into the dog’s nose may also cause her to quickly swallow the pill. You can also give her a syringe full of water to make sure she swallows, or give the dog a small treat after the pill goes down.

Do not break the pill up into a powder. Powders have an unpleasant taste that dogs don’t accept well. Some pills also have a protective coating that is important for the delayed release of the medication, and crushing the pill will destroy the coating.

Some pills can be given in food. This can be done by making up small “meatballs” of dog food. Give the dog one or two undoctored meatballs, then one with the pill pushed deep into the center. Follow up with an undoctored one so the dog will continue to take the treats even if she gets a small taste of the medicine.
There are also commercial treats available made specfically for administering medication that are sticky enough to make it difficult for the dog to extract a pill while eating the treat. They are soft so they mold easily around the pill. Pill Pockets and Flavor Doh are two examples.

Always check with your veterinarian before giving any pills with food.

Liquids

Liquid medicines, including electrolytes and water solutions, are administered into the cheek pouch between the molars and the cheek. A medicine bottle, eyedropper, or plastic syringe without the needle can be used to dispense the liquid.

Pinch the dog’s lips together. Insert the end of the dispenser into the cheek pouch and seal the lips with your fingers. Tilt the dog’s chin upward and slowly dispense the liquid. The dog will swallow automatically. If you must give the dog a large quantity of liquid, you will need to pause periodically and give her time to swallow. Do not try to push a full syringe of liquid quickly down the dog’s throat!

Injections

Injecting any foreign substance into the body always carries with it the danger of causing an acute allergic or anaphylactic reaction. Treating anaphylactic shock requires immediate intravenous adrenaline and oxygen. This is one reason why it is best to have your veterinarian give injections. As a precaution, do not administer a drug by injection to a dog who has had any sort of past history of an allergic reaction (such as hives) to that drug.

If it becomes necessary to give injections at home (for example, if the dog is diabetic), have your veterinarian demonstrate the procedure. Some injections are given under the skin (subcutaneous) and others into the muscle (intramuscular). Directions that come with the product will indicate the correct route of injection.
The injection itself usually is not painful, although intramuscular injections may hurt somewhat as the medicine is injected. Dogs should be restrained. Having an assistant is helpful.

Begin by drawing the medicine up into the syringe. If there is an air bubble inside, flick the syringe to get the bubble to the top. Then point the needle toward the ceiling or into a sink and press the plunger to expel all air from the syringe and needle. Make sure the correct amount is still in the syringe after the air bubble is expelled. Select the injection site, part the hair, and cleanse the dog’s skin with cotton soaked in alcohol.

Top 12 Dog Training Tips

noreply@blogger.com (Terri Oak) — Fri, 18 Jan 2013 13:12:00 +0000

Top 12 Dog Training Tips

Purina and Milo’s Kitchen Treat Recalls

noreply@blogger.com (Terri Oak) — Sat, 12 Jan 2013 00:00:00 +0000

Purina and Milo’s Kitchen Treat Recalls

Rose Bowl Float Salutes Military Working Dogs

noreply@blogger.com (Terri Oak) — Fri, 04 Jan 2013 23:25:00 +0000

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noreply@blogger.com (Terri Oak) — Fri, 21 Dec 2012 21:12:00 +0000

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10 Reptiles That Make Great Pets for Kids

noreply@blogger.com (Terri Oak) — Fri, 07 Dec 2012 20:39:00 +0000

For apartment-dwelling kids or families who have limited space, traditional pets might not be a great fit. Reptiles, however, typically live in self-contained environments that require a relatively small space commitment. While not all reptiles are ideal choices for kids, there are many that could prove to be perfect for your family. Here are 10 of the most kid-friendly pet reptiles.

Corn Snakes – As a general rule, snakes require significantly less space and attention than many other types of reptiles, making them ideally suited to live in a tank inside an easily-distracted child’s room. The slender bodies of corn snakes are easy for children to handle, but be warned: they can also be masters of escape if housed improperly or if the lid to their habitat is left unlatched.
Ball Pythons – For kids that want a snake with a heftier body, the Ball Python might be a good choice. The humidity and temperature of their habitats do need to be carefully monitored, but they’re relatively low-maintenance pets that are typically very tolerant of excessive handling.
Leopard Geckos – Hardy and tolerant to handling, the leopard gecko’s diet of insects, vegetables and greens is easily acquired and can be handled by an older child without much assistance. The biggest drawback to the leopard gecko is its nocturnal nature, which can cause kids to become less interested when they discover that it sleeps for most of the day and is active at night.
Bearded Dragons – One of the most popular lizards for children’s pets is the bearded dragon, which can grow up to two feet long in adulthood and subsists on a mixed diet of insects and vegetables. Bearded dragons typically have good personalities and are well-suited to children.
Fat-Tailed Geckos – Generally quite docile and easy to tame, the fat-tailed gecko is another suitable reptile for children, and their 10 inch average size is easy for smaller hands to accommodate. They are also very tolerant to regular handling. They typically live for 15 to 20 years, so you’re not likely to have to handle the delicate subject of death when your child is still too young to process the concept properly.
Fire-Bellied Toads – Despite their ominous-sounding name, the fire-bellied toad can be the perfect pet for a frog-loving child. They also can survive comfortably in a smaller environment and are generally less expensive and less difficult to keep up than other types of reptiles.
King Snakes – Slower-moving than many of their snake relatives, the king snake is small and quite friendly. With proper handling, the king snake is far less likely to bite than other species, and is also much easier for children to hold securely.
Box Turtles – These turtles have acquired the reputation of being quite easy to care for, which is sometimes true and sometimes not. Their disposition typically depends on the area in which you live and whether or not the box turtle is a naturally-occurring species and if you plan to house it outdoors. If your accommodations are adequate and you provide proper care for your new box turtle, it can live for a very long time. It is very important, however, that you make sure that the turtle you’re purchasing was captive bred; laws governing the sale of these reptiles have caused a huge spike in the capture of wild adults, which is rapidly diminishing the number of these creatures in their natural habitats.
Crested Geckos – Less finicky about heat than some of their lizard brethren, the crested gecko does require a vertical cage to accommodate his ability to walk vertically across a surface. Though the crested gecko is another nocturnal lizard, their relative ease-of-care makes them one of the better choices for kids.
Anoles – Though their five to seven year lifespan is significantly shorter than those of many other lizards, the anole is quite small and can change colors from green to brown. Docile after taming, they can tolerate capable handling once they’ve become accustomed to it, though they are easily frightened in some cases.

It’s important to carefully research the habits and needs of a particular reptile before bringing it home, as there are many factors that make specific creatures less than ideal for kids. Some, for instance, can become so stressed from frequent handling that their health is affected. Also, children that are too young to understand proper hygiene should never handle a reptile without adult supervision, as some varieties can carry the salmonella virus, which can be easily spread if kids don’t wash their hands thoroughly. Be sure to take your time before making your decision to ensure that both your child and their new pet are happy and healthy.

Posted on December 5, 2012 by admin | in Nannies

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