Yurt Living

Building A Yurt In Winter

2012-01-03T10:59:00.001-08:00

Building a yurt may not be at the top of your desirability rankings in the dead of winter, but, with proper planning, a quality structure can be pre-fabricated, then assembled on site in a matter of a few days. While flexible-wall, tarpaulin yurts are the most popular structures in North America, it is the solid-wall yurt that provides the greatest protection, for the lowest cost in cooler and colder climates. Soft-wall yurts offer the primary advantage of being able to be assembled, then disassembled and relocated with relat9ve we, while solid structures do not lend themselves well to relocation. The question then becomes, if you intend to relocate frequently, why not buy a tent or RV?

Our solid-wall yurt will stand for years, and has proven itself, already, to be a weather-tight, comfortable home. Although, due to our wanderlust and travelling nature in winter, we do not spent the deepest Part of winter in our home, it has endured the coldest, snowiest and windiest days of our Manitoba, Canada winters. If minus-40 is still too warm for you, then a yurt, of any variety, may not be a viable living solution!

By using 2-foot panels, assembled on an 8-degree angle to each other, we have constructed a 600-square foot (that’s incorrect: hard to have square feet in a round building!) facility. Similarly, one could build a yurt in a variety of diameters (12, 16, 24, 32) with relative simplicity.

Simply construct the individual panels, cut the sectional top and bottom plates, build the roof ring and saw the appropriate angles into the roof rafters, and the entire package of components is ready to be shipped to your building site. Assembly on your pre-existing platform or floor should take two people no more than 12 hours. Slide the wall tarpaulins around this wooden framework, slip the roof tarpaulin over the rafters and install your doors and windows and your yurt is ready for the finishing inside touches.

The tarpaulin walls offer both aesthetic and practical benefits. As a Tyvek-type exterior skin, the tarp is impervious to the most violent winds, while repelling both rain and snow. The roof tarpaulin, however, needs to be installed tightly. This demands that the supplier manufactures it to your precise dimensions and pitch, and that your roof rafters and top plate assembly are equally precise. If the tarp is too loose, any flapping or vibration in the wind will act as a billows, and dislodge your roof fibreglass batt insulation, or break the seal on your foil-backed bubble insulation used to line the interior of the ceiling.

Within two days, your yurt metamorphoses from a pile of dimensional lumber and fabric in your garage to a fully liveable home, for less than 50% of the cost of a conventional flexible-wall yurt, and one twelfth to 1/6 of the cost of s similarly-sized conventional house. The added appeal is that this project can be undertaken and completed at any time of the year.

Free Renewable Energy Not Always Free

2011-11-19T18:42:00.001-08:00

Being eco-friendly may be admirable, but it comes with a price, and it is not always as crystal-clear as one believes.

We rely heavily on non-grid energy, including wind and solar power. However, renewal energy sources such as ours require energy storage, and, specifically, battery storage. While there are advanced battery technologies on the market (e.g. batteries for hybrid vehicles), as well as large wet-cell storage batteries (such as those in forklifts and indoor industrial cleaning equipment), the most prevalent, and therefore, the lowest-priced units are conventional deep-cycle marine 12-volt batteries. These typically cost from $80 to $200, with only modest storage and cranking amperage.

The primary advantage of marine batteries over vehicle batteries is their capacity to be discharged to low levels and recharged often. However, “often” is subjective, with most of the commercially available units being rated for a few hundred charging cycles, at most. These batteries also do not like to be frozen, but really detest excessive heat.

In order to supply minimal energy, such as the energy to light two compact fluorescent bulbs four hours each day and a small bar refrigerator (drawing 90 watts, with a surge of 800 watts), you will consume 2,280 (2.3 kw) watts each day. Now consider that a small solar panel produces 13-18 watts (some of the single panel retail units produce 30w) under optimal conditions. In northern latitudes, hours of summer daylight average 15 hours, but typically generate only about 60% of that in sunlight sufficient to “max out” the solar panel. With three panels, you will produce 405 watts – less than 20% of what you need. A small wind turbine may produce 40% of what you need, if you live in an environment where the wind is very frequent, and of sufficient strength to power the turbine. Typically, the marine batteries attached to your collectors are rated for 800-1000 CCA. Obviously, unless you expand your generation and/or storage network, you will need to use a charging system on the batteries.

Because each of the batteries is being discharged the equivalent of 100%every eight hours, you will require a battery array of at least three batteries, just to produce your daily minimum energy requirement. Ultimately, most of us will require electricity for television or sound equipment, charging cell phones and laptops, power for small fans, and so on. With minimal energy, though, your three-battery array will be fully discharged and recharged 100 times from June to September. That is the normal lifespan of the battery!

This year, we experienced near-record heat and sunlight throughout our summer. While that is great for our solar panels, heat is more damaging to the batteries than cold, and reduces their ability to be recharged (and hold a charge) significantly.

We used an eight-battery package. However, almost weekly, we needed to refill the cells, as the electrolytic acid evaporated. The sunlight did its damage, too, destroying one battery. Of the eight, only one battery now holds a significant charge, even though I de-sulphated the batteries regularly. Five of the batteries were three years old or less, with the other three being four years old. Seven batteries will need to be replaced.

At a cost of $90 per battery, our outlay will be $630, plus taxes. We used nearly $100 of generator fuel to supplement our renewable energy supply. In four months, our lighting costs will be $700-800, factoring in the wear and tear on equipment.

Now, we have batteries that need to be recycled and spent fuel that polluted the air. If we had relied on our hydro-electric grid for energy, at a cost of $0.08 per kwh, we would have spent less than $130! Did we really do the environment and our pocketbook a favour?

Thermal Bridging Solution for Yurts

2011-10-20T15:07:00.000-07:00

At the point where the roof rafters of a yurt meet the upright walls (particularly in a solid wall yurt design), there will be thermal bridging. This leads to condensation and cold spots in cooler months. Yurt design generally fails to compensate for this loss of heat.

In the solid wall yurt that I constructed, even though I used foil backed insulation and bubble foil insulation to minimize the extent of heat transfer, the results last year were largely inadequate. However, this year, I believe I have found the solution, and it is, in part, due to the supplementary restraint system that I incorporated in the design.

In prior articles, I discussed how I had installed a dome tarpaulin that overhung the walls by about eight inches. This reduced air infiltration during wind, allowed for a greater ability to shed “horizontal” rain, protected against pest intrusion, and allowed us to create a small overhang above the windows.

I also installed another feature: ratchet strap tie downs around the upper perimeter of the walls. While the ropes that tether the roof tarpaulin to the unit generally are adequate, and the sole restraint system in many conventional designs, the ratchet straps can be adjusted around the circumference to further resist the parachute tug of high winds. At a cost of less than $40 for ninety feet of strapping, it is an inexpensive solution. That strapping also allows me to install a flexible rain gutter (see prior articles). However, its greatest benefit is in the ability that it provides to me to resolve the thermal bridging problem in the yurt.

Thermal bridging occurs, quite simply, where a harder surface that transmits hot or cold easily is exposed to the elements and to a conflicting heating or cooling source. Think of that metal counter top, and how cold it seems to the touch in winter, how hot in summer. Wood, although offering less transfer capacity, still acts as a bridge. In houses, R-factor of insulating walls is lowered, if the studs meet the outside and inside walls with no insulative materials between them. The same happens in the yurt.

To resolve the thermal dilemma, I cut pieces of two-foot wide by one inch thick rigid polystyrene insulation into five-inch lengths. Sliding these under the ratchet strapping and to the apex of the walls, all around the circumference of the yurt, I provided an R-5 insulation barrier between the top plate of the walls and rafter joints and the outside air.

Although, to date, temperatures have remained moderate by late autumn standards in the region, I have experienced no condensation in these areas, where I did so last year when the temperature neared freezing. Although an infrared thermometer shows a five-degree difference in temperatures at the bridge point versus the rest of the wall area, this differential is insignificant. Accordingly, I completed installation of similar strips of rigid insulation along the bottom perimeter of the yurt, where wall meets floor.

Yurt Popular, Even With Flies

2011-08-25T08:34:00.000-07:00

Flies: not the most attractive topic. But flies are an everyday part of our summer lives, and, in our yurt, we have discovered that flies can be particularly bothersome. The design of a yurt lends itself well to being a haven for these pests. The relatively loose fit of the tarpaulins allows these nuisances to squeeze themselves through crevices and cracks, while the permeability of the structure enables odours to waft outward. Combine these two factors with the tendency of the roof tarpaulin to trap the sun’s heat, and yurts become playgrounds for flying pests.
Last autumn, for example, I removed a portion of the dome insulation to install additional snow load braces, and found hundreds of dormant flies embedded in the top side of the fibreglass insulation layer. While part of the problem may have been that the eggs pre-existed in the insulation package, recent hot days have stimulated an invasion of black and bluebottle flies.
An additional contributor to the attraction of our yurt for flying insects is the presence of our grey water tanks and compost holding tank near the home. Whenever we drain or flush these systems, flies are drawn to the site.
The round design of the yurt, as well, means that there is less air turbulence, on windy or calm and hot days. This relative tranquility allows flies to gather and reproduce.
We have implemented and tested a variety of solutions. The conventional insect trap is a general failure, for flies, mosquitoes and wasps. Unfortunately, it does a terrific job on moths, which we prefer to allow to thrive.
In desperation, we resorted to commercial chemical sprays, without success, while also flooding the environment with toxins. These sprays included perimeter, spot and space sprays, all equally ineffective.
We grow such plants as tansy, lemon balm, sorrel and other natural insect repellents. They do work, but only within a very limited and defined area. We would need to plant these sentinels every few inches around the home, and even vertically on our yurt walls to have any hope of winning the insect war.
Inside the yurt, we have resealed all of the joints of the foil-backed bubble insulation that lines our yurt roof. This action has been significantly successful, as the flies that do hatch in the domed area must migrate outward, rather than inward.
Our walls have been difficult to seal completely, given the way they moor to the roofline and floor. However, taping all of these joints has been successful, as well.
A third successful solution has been to open the dome vent while closing all but two of our windows, and using our ceiling fan to draw the air upward, instead of forcing it downward. We have installed a floor vent that allows cool air from beneath the deck to be drawn upward. This continual air movement keeps the flies from settling. The round interior of the yurt maximizes air movement, which the flies dislike.
The last proven solution that we have employed is to install a small fume hood over our cook unit, and bent it outside. With less odour to attract the flies, they now prefer to congregate near the outside vent.
We are experimenting with one other solution: mustard paste. In past years, I have had great success in deterring bugs and crawling pests in the garden, by obtaining mustard seed and wild mustard screenings from a local seed cleaner. When crushed and applied near plants, insects shy away from this hotfoot compound. We have obtained mustard oil (crushed form these same seeds), and have applied a spray under the lip of the roof tarp where it meets the wall, around the base of the wall tarp and around the window and door cutouts. So far, in the areas where this oil has been applied, there is a huge reduction in fly accumulation. However, we need to observe how long this spray lasts, and whether it has a detrimental effect on the fabric. We will keep you posted!

Yurt Interior Walls

2011-07-04T11:12:00.000-07:00

One of the great benefits of the yurt design is the open room concept. The lack of walls means that air moves freely. Combined with the round yurt structure, this means that a greater efficiency in both air movement and its contingent heating efficiency result. However, modesty demands that we build our homes with a private bathroom. Even in a yurt, this means walls, and a barrier to smooth air flow. Similarly, many of us want closets and wardrobes, whether they are built as standalone units or integrated into the bed enclosure. Again, the natural flow in the yurt is interrupted by such barriers.
In our yurt, we built a six by eight foot bathroom, but left the ceiling area open. While the walls do provide impediment to air movement, the open ceiling concept means that warm, moist air is able to move out of the enclosure, and reduce heat and vapour pooling. By combining our closet space into the rear, outer edge of the bathroom, we were able to reduce the number of structural breaks.
Still, these barriers created condensation problems within the yurt. In the late fall, cooler outside air and a lack of air movement in the corner areas where wall met outside wall, a severe moisture problem resulted, with development of mould. We solved that issue by implementing several strategies.
First, we installed small 12 volt fans in these vulnerable portions of the yurt. The fans were salvaged from desktop computers, yet are sufficiently powerful to move the air away from these stagnant areas.
Next, we doubled up on the insulation factor where floor, outside wall and inside wall met, installing a one inch thick segment of polystyrene rigid insulation, extending six inches above and below the floor level.
The third change that we implemented was to install two fans along the top plates of the bathroom and closet, forcing air to move from floor to ceiling.
By moving our furniture and small items away from the outside wall, we increased air flow.
Lastly, we bored two inch holes at the base of the wall, allowing the air to move freely between the main yurt floor space and the bathroom and closet.
It is imperative, if you are choosing to build a yurt for efficiency, that you consider what makes the yurt an efficient design. Vertical air movement, allowing hot air to rise in the summer and vent at the apex of the dome, as well as moving it downward with small fans in the winter, is a significant feature of the yurt design. It is more imperative, though, that you reduce barriers to air flow in dead spaces and “corners” of the yurt. Simple layout alternatives provide this free flow of air. Where possible, consider moving walls a few inches from the outside, and tie them together in a free-standing box system, so that there is a space along the entire height of the exterior yurt wall, keeping air flowing freely. Ensure that insulation is installed properly and evenly, with no cold spots to encourage dead air and condensation.
Built properly, the yurt design is a marvellous system. Done carelessly, and it loses its structural integrity and natural efficiency.

Solid Versus Flexible Wall Yurt Systems

2011-06-17T10:32:00.000-07:00

Yurt purists will insist adamantly that its simply is not a true yurt if it has solid walls. Yet, the original yurts, from Turkey to the Himalayas, had neither tarpaulin skins or space-age bubble insulation and glass-domed vents. Yurts, indeed, are more about simplicity and function than any purist concept of how they should be designed, and from what materials.
It is true that the lattice/tarpaulin skin systems employed by manufacturers from Yurtco to Colorado Yurts have aesthetic appeal. Their flexible framing, bubble insulation and heavy-duty pvc tarps allow for an intimacy with the surrounding environment that a conventional house or cabin does not. The sound of rain on the exterior skins is magical, and the thick plastic windows create an aura of living in a tent. Even in relatively stiff winds, these yurts hold steady, yet react to the breezes. Yet, these same benefits also can be drawbacks.
Since windows are nothing more than thick, clear poly plastic, they transmit heat and cold easily. To cut down on sun infiltration, the exterior skin must be zipped shut. Similarly, in winter, those same windows almost always are zipped closed, creating a claustrophobic, tomb-like atmosphere. If the window is improperly installed and allowed to vibrate or shake, the plastic quickly breaks down, and, in a matter of a few years, the window must be replaced when it cracks.
The light lattice framing does withstand winds of 70-90 kph, but a wind/snow load supplementary support system must be installed in high wind/high snow regions. Of particular concern for many is the loose fit of the yurt wall skins at the base of these units. While tight enough to hold back the elements, many yurts with lattice wall design, according to owners, allow small rodents such as voles to work their way into the building during the colder months.
Due to the thinness of the exterior walls, R-factor levels for insulation are minimal, with only a few centimetres of space-age bubble insulation protecting against the elements.
A reasonable fear that some people have expressed is that the light construction is a poor impediment to a hungry bear, who may smell food through the fragile skeleton of the yurt. Whether the fear has ever materialized is irrelevant, as the fear may still exist even where the risk is minimal.
On the other hand, solid-wall yurts offer a great many advantages. Few bears, badgers or raccoons have the tenacity to force their way through 7/16 inch of wood, plus framing, making the structure seem considerably safer from these predators than flexible-wall yurts.
With the exterior tarpaulin covering those walls, wind and air infiltration is minimal. The framing allows for two to three times the insulative capacity than lattice walls.
Wind endurance is significantly greater in a properly designed solid wall yurt, as well. Using the interlocking top and bottom plate segments that has been created for these units, the structures have endured winds of over 115kph, without any sign of stress or strain. In one instance, a healthy tree, sixteen inches in diameter, was sheared off by the wind not more than forty yards from the yurt, yet the yurt suffered absolutely no ill effects from the wind force.
Window and door installation is easier and less expensive in solid wall yurts. Because of their framing, these buildings can be constructed using standard windows (double or triple pane) and doors, allowing for reduced cost, energy saving and better light infiltration. It is also a lot more difficult for a raccoon to claw through a pvc & glass window than a plastic one!
Along with the advantages of solid wall construction, these hybrid yurts maintain the tarpaulin roof structure, along with added truss strength to withstand heavier snow loads. The tarpaulin skin allows for the same magical enjoyment of a rainfall on the tent-like roof, the same intimacy with the outside environment and the same open atmosphere as more “traditional” yurt systems.
Yurt purists may decry the bastardization of their beloved structures, but they will have a hard time denying the advantages of solid-wall over flexible-wall yurts.

The Romance Of Yurt Life, Wildlife Included

2011-05-17T09:28:00.000-07:00

When you choose to live with nature in a yurt, it is a marriage: you accept the good with the bad. But even the bad can be great in the springtime! We have only been back in the yurt for a few weeks now, but our encounters with the wildlife have been nothing short of enthralling and amusing.
Last autumn, we closed out our season in the backwoods with a visit from a family of four raccoons, who systematically destroyed every bird feeder we had put up while they scavenged for the last meals of the season. A couple of squirrels determinedly decided to winter in the insulation under the platform deck of the yurt, as well, but we were willing to tolerate them for the four bitter months that we were away from our home.
As spring broke this year, though, we found just what damage a couple of active nut-eaters can do to insulation! Our raccoons have returned, as well. What is unusual is that the family of four remains together, with no new litter of kits in evidence. They announced their return by using their can-opener teeth to puncture a Coleman cooler that I had left outside. For dessert, they gnawed their way into a plastic gas canister, filled with mixed fuel for my chainsaw, and dragged the leaking container across the grass. Given their “finger” dexterity, I am glad I did not leave a barbeque lighter around!
Thirty miles north of us, Hecla Island, in Lake Winnipeg, is the summer home of turkey vultures and a few bald eagles. Rarely has either been spotted away from that area, yet, just as the snow melted from our meadow, a bald eagle pursued a mouse, and landed in the field to finish his lunch. It is just one example of the changing patterns of wildlife in the area. We have two mallard couples nesting in the creek bed not fifty yards from the yurt, sand hill cranes that have relocated their annual nesting area from the adjacent farmland to our small meadow, a grouse sitting on eggs under a three-foot high spruce in a clearing only paces from our home and coyotes that have decided that it is safe to howl, nightly, thirty feet away from where we sleep.
Late in the winter, I encountered a lone black wolf (probably from the Hecla pack) that obviously had strayed form its traditional range twenty-five miles north of us.
My wife is less happy with our annual migrant bear, who has, each spring and fall, travelled along our old riverbed with her latest cub. Two weeks ago, she came up to our doorstep with her cub, demolished a sealed garbage container and dragged one of the bags two hundred yards through our garden before tearing into it. As bold as that action was, she showed that she is less wary of human contact than ever, when she returned, during a rainstorm, to the yurt and rooted around the deck. In the morning, her huge paw prints in the wet clay where I had been excavating provided more than ample evidence of her visit.
Fortunately, our resident skunks and badger have not opted to become emboldened, and move in under the yurt platform!
More humorous that dangerous are the romantic interjections of local wildlife. Our ducks and Canada geese have almost finished their courting, calling, dancing and preening, while the frogs continue to be in great serenading voice. There is nothing quite so mood-destroying, though, as the cooing, gurgling and raucous clucking of crows in love. Their grating calls have all the appeal of a screaming baby. On the other hand, who can turn a deaf ear to the Buddy Rich drumming of a male ruffed grouse at 3:00 a.m?
The best of the strutting males though, has to be one of the many sapsuckers in the woods. For six years, he has chosen to drum his mating song not in nearby trees, but on any metal that he can find. Six years ago, it was my old Cockshutt tractor. Then, he found a better sound with an empty 45-gallon steel drum. Last year, it was the tin bonnet on my old camper. This morning, though, he reached the apex of quality music when he found that the roof of our new Prius provided the melody that he wanted.
It is there that I draw the line at passive interaction with nature. Tomorrow morning, I expect to join him with a few well-directed tennis balls to divert his attention from his new $30,000 toy! I expect, however, that, with the abundance of empty containers and old iron in the yard, it will be only moments before our rock-star drummer finds a new beat with which to lure his mate.

Inexpensive Yurt Flooring Solution

2011-05-09T09:07:00.000-07:00

In keeping with the minimal philosophy of living in a yurt, the ideal design will employ a minimum of materials, be as “green” as possible and will be both sustainable and durable.
In our yurt, we have chosen a very inexpensive, basic design and material for our flooring. There are several reasons for this.
Firstly, cost is a factor in the decision as to the type of flooring to use. We opted for materials with a cost of less than $0.45 per square foot, plus $0.10 per square foot for finishes.
Secondly, we wanted to ensure that the frequent traffic directly from outdoors to indoors did not track in excess dirt. Carpeting would have trapped that dirt.
Thirdly, the location of the yurt in a wooded area would have attracted insects such as ants. By constructing flooring with a hard surface, we eliminated nesting sites for those insects.
Fourthly, we wanted a floor that would remain cool in the summer and able to adapt to winter conditions. With the hard surface, we were able to lay down area carpets that we already owned in strategic locations, while keeping bare floor at entrances and frequently used work areas, such as the kitchen areas and washroom.
Lastly, we wanted to minimize weight of the flooring, since we built the yurt on pads and posts, rasther than embedding pillars into the ground.
To accomplish all four goals, we used ¾ inch oriented strand board as sub floor material, with 1/8 inch good one side plywood laid at a ninety degree angles to the subfloor as the main floor. The plywood was screwed to the underlay using three quarter inch wood screws with threads the full length of the screw. The use of full-length threads is essential, so that the screws can be countersunk into the thin plywood.
Lastly, we used a clear varnish to coat the surface of the flooring, making sure to pay special attention to the high traffic areas.
Since installing this flooring, we have found that it works remarkably well, and shows a sheen and grain similar to good-quality hardwood or laminate flooring, at one quarter of the cost.
However, some problems have arisen. On occasion, we stored 20 pound propane tanks on the floor, and, with changing temperatures, the tanks attracted condensation. This condensation accumulated in a ring on the floor. To remove it, we lightly scoured the area with a Javex and water mix, with modest success. The only other problem has been a slight separation, due to the thinness of the material, in spots where insufficient screws were used.
This flooring has answered all five of our criteria for the design, and is recommended for anyone contemplating an inexpensive flooring alternative, whether in a yurt or cabin.

Yurt Perimeter Drainage Solves Humidity Problems

2011-05-09T09:05:00.000-07:00

Perimeter drainage
Spring has proven to be a real test for our yurt. To close out the late fall and early winter, we experienced exceptionally unusual rainfall and early snowfall. Because we have built our yurt on the slope of a hill, the deck on which the yurt rests is at ground level at the rear, and fifty-four inches off the ground in the front. This permits good air flow, but demanded that we hoard the perimeter to block cold air infiltration. Unfortunately, the hoarding also trapped humidity, and we experienced numerous condensation issues throughout November and the first week of December.
The interior of the yurt is lined with foil-backed bubble insulation, with all joints taped. This makes for a very air-tight unit, but any moisture inside is trapped, as well. Cooking, showering and even everyday living contributes to the high humidity. We experimented with a number of options to reduce this wet air, with limited success.
The major problem was that, because it was winter, we needed to seal and insulate our rooftop vent. This creates a dome where the heat rises and remains somewhat trapped at the apex. Although the yurt is quite warm and well insulated, there are many partial thermal bridges, at the headers, the window framing and even at the roof ring and rafters. As soon as we reduced interior temperature, the cooler outside air would condense humidity on the foil, which would accrue and run down the walls or drip from points of the roof.
Using a fan at the peak of the dome ameliorated the problem, to a degree. Similarly, by adding insulation between the tarp and the exterior wall framing, we were able to reduce the temperature differential. Lastly, we reduced our interior temperature by a couple of degrees and maintained that temperature day and night.
The major problem that remained was the moisture in the soil under the yurt. This spring, moisture levels have been exacerbated by heavy rainfall and a slow thaw that releases the moisture in the ice slowly.
This week, we believe we resolved that issue. By trenching around the perimeter of the yurt profile to a depth of six inches and six inches wide, we have created a mini-drainage ditch. This U-shaped trench catches the rainfall as it falls from the walls, and directs it along the perimeter of the yurt, then away. There is no opportunity for the water to pool under the yurt and contribute to the humidity issue.
Although it is early in the experiment, it seems to be working. We have experienced no condensation issues in the first three days. Yesterday, the spring rains hit again, but there is no water under the yurt, and our humidity inside the yurt is no higher than the outside.
As we move through each of the initial seasons in our yurt, we have discovered new challenges and issues that would be uncommon in conventional housing. However, in spite of the spate of concerns, both of us are thrilled with this innovative living accommodation and its two overwhelming benefits: a miniscule cost (with no mortgage to pay) and its roomy in-touch-with-nature atmosphere.

Yurt Flooring

2011-04-05T15:31:00.001-07:00

Yurt Trusses Withstand Heavy Snow

2011-02-07T11:15:00.001-08:00

One of the concerns that we had when we constructed our yurt was that the winter snow load might be too stressful for the design if the roof. In our part of the continent, we get a fair amount of snow and lake effect snow (120 cm per winter, or 47.5 inches). While this is less than the mountainous areas or the eastern seaboard often gets, our snow stays from November until late April.
The roof trusses are designed with two-by-fours installed 24 inches on centre at the wall top plate, merging to 1.5 inches at the apex of the yurt dome. Most of the conventional, commercial yurts have a similar truss distribution, and claim that they are sufficiently solid to withstand normal snow loads. However, those manufacturers also offer wind and heavy snow load reinforcement options. Our design has an additional drawback: it is designed with a 28 degree slope, instead of the 40-45 degree slope that is needed to ensure that snow slides off the roof.
In order to distribute the weight of the snow, we installed collar ties at the seven-foot point on each truss (our yurt has a 28-foot diameter), with hurricane ties at the wall plates. To ensure lateral and diagonal stability, we used a 3/8 inch aircraft cable, adjustable through use of a turnbuckle, looped through the ends of each truss. Three by six inch reinforcing plates are affixed within two inches of the top and bottom of each joined wall section.
During the fierce winds that we encountered in late October, there was absolutely no movement of the yurt, providing us with some sense of security that the structure was sound. However, lateral wind is not comparable to vertical pressure of weight, so we have had to wait until the snow arrived to test our design.
As of January 26, we have received 10 centimetres more than the entire seasonal average of snow for our area, so measuring the impact of the snow load for a typical season is possible.
Not only has the roof assembly withstood the entire load, but it has not sagged more than 1 centimetre (1/2 inch), yet the snow depth is almost 8 inches on the lower third of the roof. To further test the strength and stability of the trusses, I climbed on the roof and put my entire weight on the mid-point between collar tie and wall plates, and collar tie and dome. No sag was noticed.
Given the additional reinforcing measures that we incorporated into the design, this durability is to be expected. However, it is welcome to see that theory and practice meet, when it comes to the strength of our design. Consequently, I have no hesitation in recommending a similar layout if you are contemplating construction of your own yurt.

A Manitoba Winter in Our Yurt

2010-11-23T07:35:00.000-08:00

It’s only November 23, and we’ve seen Mother Nature at her worst!
When we decided to build our yurt in the bush lands of Manitoba, we were thrilled to be able to “commune with nature.” So far, it’s been a pretty one-sided conversation!
Throughout the spring and early summer, record rainfalls prevented us from building our road – 2/3 mile winding through thick woodlands and meadow. The autumn saw another deluge, with over 100 mm of rainfall in one week.
A wonderfully warm October lulled us into complacency: we’d be able to stay in the yurt until at least December 1, even with only a bush trail on which to drive our Prius to our home.
The beginning of November, Mother Nature began to flex her muscle. Wind gusts of over 100 kph (60-65 mph) hit, but the yurt stood, unflinching. Just to be on the safe side, we purchased tire chains for the car, and stocked up on three 20-pound tanks of propane for the yurt.
Then, a cold snap – Minus 18C (0F) – forewarned us of things to come. On November 18, 20 centimetres of snow (8 inches), followed by 60-70 kph winds (40 mph) drove us out of the yurt for a couple of days. The first night back, the thermometer hit -20C, and another 7 cm of snow. For two days, we shovelled a roadway 950 yards long, and were able to drive in.
Ha! We beat Mother Nature! Not bad for a 59-year-old and his 51-year-old wife.
What fools we were. Sunday night, the wind chill hit -22C, with a new low of -24 during the early part of the next day. Today, we received another 2-4 cm. of snow. That’s not bad, compared to what is coming tomorrow. Fifteen centimetres is predicted, with high winds and cold temperatures to follow. Next week, another snow storm is on the way.
This area receives an average of 110-120cm from November 1 to the following April 30 in a typical year. We will have received 45 cm. by November 24, with a possibility of 60 centimetres by November 30. It’s time to pack it in.
The yurt, though, can certainly handle the winter. A full snow load of 30 centimetres hasn’t caused the roof to even flinch. Inside the yurt, we didn’t feel the slightest breeze when the sixty-five mph winds hit. At -24C, the yurt remained so warm that we had to turn off our main heat, relying on a 13,500 BTU propane furnace for our only heat.
A couple have problems have emerged, though.
Because of the lighter insulation in the domed roof, and the fact that the heat rises and pools there when we turn off the fans, we have experienced a lot of condensation falling from the foil-backed bubble insulation that lines the inside of the roof.
Around the inside perimeter of the yurt, where walls meet the floor, moisture and some frost have accumulated. We resolved this by placing one-inch rigid foam insulation under the outer tarpaulin layer, extending it 6 inches below the wall. This provides a wind barrier, as well as insulation.
And, our composting toilet system isn’t letting the waste fall readily into the accumulator. That problem, we discovered, was caused because we used too little water to wash the solids through. We’ll take care of that next spring, when we return.
For now, Mother Nature wins. I’m not ready for weekly battles with a shovel against a foot of snow, so we’ll start our yurt experience again, when the weather permits.

Yurt Totem Poles Stand for Family & Friends

2010-10-29T09:24:00.000-07:00

We have a pole in the centre of our yurt. More correctly, we have two poles. Before you judge too harshly, these poles are neither dancing poles, nor firemen’s poles. They are prospective totem poles.
If moving from a middle-class home in suburbia to a Mongolian tent in the backwoods of Manitoba was not sufficiently unusual, we have incorporated a more clearly defined oddity in the living area of our yurt. Two spruce poles, crowned by a cross-member pole and crowned with a spiral of collar ties for the free-span truss boards, form our tribute to the iconic Pacific First Nations artefacts.
Granted, our future totems are significantly smaller than the mammoth totems along the Pacific Northwest coast. At an average diameter of 8 inches, they are paltry in size. They were also redundant in the yurt structure, as the roof assembly had sufficient strength without the addition of the centre posts and collar ties.
These totem poles, though, have a much more social purpose. On a counter adjacent to the poles we have an assortment of carving chisels and shaping knives. At our official “yurt-warming” party, scheduled for later this year, we will launch the first “community carving” in Manitoba (or so we believe). Guests will be invited to choose a spot, select their tools, and carve the gargoyle, icon, angel or creation of their choice – no limits. Of course, space is limited, as is time. Accordingly, future guests will be invited to add their own touches to existing carved artworks, or create their own in new space on the poles. Required is individual accountability: each carver will be asked to carve his/her initials in that masterpiece. In this manner, we will have a record of our guests’ visits, an insight into their creative sides, and the most original artwork available.
Cave and rock paintings, innukshuk statues and totems were all communications tools as well as expressions of individualism in our early Canadian culture. It is our intent to continue that tradition, in our little corner (or circle) of the country, and give vent to our friends’ creativity. Want to contribute your own ideas? How about sending us a drawing, photo or sketch of the icon that you would like to see gracing the totems in our yurt. We will be posting photos of the progress on these unique structures, beginning early next year. Let us, and our friends, bring your artistry to life!

Yurt Structural Supports

2010-09-11T08:18:00.000-07:00

Although yurts are considerably lighter than conventional houses, there still is considerable weight to the materials, and the proper support structures need to be in place.
Many yurts are built as elevated structures, either in total or in part, since many are built in locations with considerable slopes. There is a tendency to construct these units on simple 4*4 stilts, with little regard to lateral rigidity. Additionally, when yurts are built on platforms or raised decks, they alter the wind flow in, around and under the building. This practice also exacerbates drainage and snow build-up issues, as moisture tends to flow more freely under the building.
The primary consideration should be to structural integrity. Merely walking on a platform or deck that is held up by 4*4 posts causes the building to vibrate. Like the harmonic effect of a bridge structure swaying in the wind (or a child’s swing being propelled on larger and larger arcs), this rhythmic motion can increase in intensity, causing the supports to break loose over time. Cross supports should be used, in addition to ties to hold the structure caps tightly to joists or beams. Ensure that you have placed a sufficient number of stilts along the length and breadth of the platform, to prevent sag.
Wind flow can be a very serious concern for yurt design. A moderate wind, funnelled beneath the yurt, may billow, like the air beneath a parachute canopy. This air flow has a detrimental effect on heating & cooling, as well. Yurts are designed to allow for easy air flow around and over the structure, and were never designed to allow for air flow beneath.
The third concern is moisture redirection. Allowing snow load to build up under your yurt will result in high moisture content in the spring, and the contingent possible decay or mould formation on the underside of the structure. Allowing water and snow melt to drain freely under the platform, as well, will contribute to the undermining of the earthen base on which deck posts rest. This, in turn, decreases structural integrity. You should install a water redirection system on the upper edge of the yurt platform, and redirecting barriers in a lead position on each deck support leg. This will minimize the risk of water erosion.
Just because yurts are considered as an “alternative” to conventional housing does not imply that improper or inadequate construction techniques should be employed. Care in design, construction and maintenance of your yurt supporting network is a critical to building integrity as it is in conventional housing.

Yurt Exterior Skins

2010-08-06T08:30:00.000-07:00

Our yurt is designed with two exterior tarpaulin skins. The inner layer is a commercially available tarpaulin skin, intended to provide a secondary protection against rainfall, and a buffer to reduce the amount of friction of edges of the structure against the heavy-duty uv-protected tarpaulin.
The tarpaulins were purchased from Cover-Tech (New Brunswick, Canada), who provided the lowest price quote for a 12 ounce tarpaulin.
The two pieces were custom made, with the wall tarpaulin being 94 feet long and 7’6” high. The extra length will be used to lap over the doorway when we are away for long periods of time. The height exceed the height of the wall structure by six inches, to allow for overlap at the top of the wall framing (under the roof tarp) and excess length at the bottom to allow for water runoff and reduce inflow of cold air in winter. The roof tarp, too, was ordered at 30 feet in diameter, while the yurt was built to 28 feet. The extra foot around the perimeter provides enough material for us to create a partial awning over the windows, to deflect rain and snow.
A small problem occurred with the roof tarp that was easily remedied. The roofline angle (slope) was calculated at 30 degrees. However, after seaming, the tarpaulin was sewn at a 33 degree angle, and our rafter cuts were out by 2 degrees. As well, while the tarp is manufactured as a circle (cone), the yurt actually consists of 44 straight-edge sections. This resulted in a loose fit of the tarp. Normally, this would be a severe problem, as the flutter of the tarp in moderate winds would exacerbate the degrading of the tarpaulin. However, our roof vent design allowed us to snug the tarp over the vent frame, and use only one tuck of material around the entire cone area.
Once the roof tarp was hoisted into place using pulleys and ropes, the wall tarp was erected, and the top edge snugged under the lower edge of the roof tarp. Using a series of ratchet tie-downs attached together, we tightened the straps around both the upper and lower perimeter of the wall tarps, holding the roof top securely against the wall tarp. To ensure that the roof tarp did not free itself from the tie-downs, polyester rope was threaded through the tarp eyelets, and the ratchet tie-downs fed through the rope loops.
Lastly, we cut three-sided openings in the wall tarp for the windows and doorway (the fourth upper side was left uncut), retaining the material to use as a roll-down sunshade.

Yurt Wall & Roof Preparation

2010-07-10T10:06:00.000-07:00

Once the walls of our yurt and the roof rafters were in place, there was a strong urge to apply the tarpaulins, just so we could see the “finished” product. However, several preliminary steps were required, to ensure that the treated fabric would last, that the building was wind- and rain-proof, and that the structural integrity was intact.
Hurricane ties were installed on the outer end of each rafter, in addition to the two screws holding the rafter ends in place. Although wind resistance is minimized with the circular design, screws are insufficient to provide the strength needed, as screws have a tendency to shear. In fact, in most jurisdictions, screws are not acceptable, according to the Building Code, for framing.
Hurricane ties were also installed on the roof ring end of the rafters, as a secondary support for the six-inch bolts securing each inner rafter end.
To reduce lateral sway, crossties were installed, earlier, at approximately the midway point of each rafter (see prior blog posts).
Where screws extruded from each plate joining the two-foot wall segments, the ends of the screws were treated with latex caulk, to reduce rub friction against the inner layer of tarpaulin.
At the top edge of the roof ring, we fastened a rubber edging, to prevent rubbing of the tarpaulin against the sharp edge of the ring. We used a rubber molding from an old automobile windshield, fastened with roofing nails to the ring.
Lastly, an inner layer of tarpaulin was secured around the perimeter and on the roof of the yurt. These tarpaulins provide an additional rain and barrier, but, more importantly, act as a buffer between the final, outer tarpaulin layer and the framing. The tarps cost less than $90 each, and should extend the life of the outer tarpaulin by 3-5 years (a cost saving of more than $1,600).
Just as in conventional buildings, caulk was applied around the windows and door, and drip mold & j-channel framed the openings.
One additional feature that we incorporated into the design was a roof-top vent system, to improve air flow. This vent was constructed (see picture) of osb, and oriented in a north/south direction, so that the vent windows can be opened on either (or both) end(s) to maximize ventilation.
In our next post, we will discuss finishing touches and exterior tarpaulin application. The following article will provide information on interior finishing stages. The last three articles will provide information on setting up our solar, wind & biomass energy systems, as well as our grey water recovery systems.
Should you desire a complete material list, contact me at bizdynamics1@gmail.com.

Assembling the Yurt Walls

2010-06-27T20:35:00.000-07:00

There is the easy way to build a yurt: seek out a quality supplier of yurt kits, select your options &size, and then make your purchase. There is a more difficult way to build a yurt: tour the yurt demonstrations of a variety of suppliers and build based on those model units. Then there is the road less travelled: design & build your own. This is the option my wife and I have chosen.
Conventional, commercial yurt walls are constructed using lattice wrapped with pvc tarpaulin material. A thin aircraft cable is interlaced in the top openings of the latticework, and tightened using a turnbuckle. This structure holds the walls inward in a circle, while the weight of the rafters resting on the cable pushes the walls outward. Stasis, strength and stability thus are achieved.
Our wall structure begins with a 2*3 framework installed around the inside perimeter of a 24” by 84” piece of 7/16” thick oriented strand board. Since our yurt is twenty-eight feet in diameter, with a circumference of approximately eighty-eight feet, 44 sections are needed. Each section meets the next at an eight degree angle, requiring that one of the two vertical 2” by 3” studs is cut with an eight degree taper.
To lay out the bottom plate, forty-four 2-foot lengths of 2 by 3 are cut in a slight “vee” shape, at an eight degree angle, as well. Each wall segment will meet the next at the point of the “vee,” with a one-foot extension extending into the adjacent section base. By fastening the wall to these bottom plate segments, a solid circular frame is created.
As each section is placed standing adjoining the next, a top plate, identical to the bottom plate segment, is secured along the top 2” by 3” horizontal piece of the wall.
After making sure that all wall segments are vertically plumb, metal joining plates are fastened to join the segments at the top and bottom of each wall segment.
Next, windows and the main door are framed in place, in the same manner as a conventional wall and door or window buck are installed.
For our yurt, we purchased the 7’6” high by 94’ long tarpaulin from a New Brunswick supplier. The fabric intentionally was ordered longer than the actual circumference of the yurt, to allow for gathering and darts around the doors and windows.
Prior to installing the tarpaulin around the perimeter, window and door edges are caulked and sealed. Along the bottom of the wall segments, a strip of Velcro is fastened. The tarpaulin will extend one inch below the bottom of the wall, so that water will run off and away from the floor. After wrapping the tarp around the yurt walls and temporarily holding it in place, six 15-foot long ratchet tie-downs are connected and tightened along the upper perimeter of the walls, permanently fixing the wall tarp into place.
Walls are now complete.
The next article will describe how to construct the roof rafters and install the assembly onto the yurt.

Weather Wrecks Yurt Plans

2010-06-22T06:42:00.000-07:00

Designing, constructing and living in my yurt was supposed to free me from more mundane housing concerns, cut costs, and make life more simple. Ha!
Since beginning construction on my own yurt design, I have been slapped with an important lesson: Nature rules. In our region – a normally dry, stable area in western Canada, late spring should be an ideal time to build. But record rainfall has flooded three of four western provinces, and, in our case, washed out access roads, and so severely restricted access that I have been forced to bring building supplies strapped to my back! We, fortunately, have had two days when we were able to work a supply truck across a neighbouring farm field. So, construction, severely delayed, still has moved forward.
Today, we are working on erecting the wall shells, with the roof rafters scheduled for tomorrow. Today, we will be working in thunderstorms, while tomorrow we will be working in humid, sticky heat.
Throughout this preliminary period, I have picked a total of 396 wood ticks off my legs, arms, back, scalp, etc. It is a record of which I am perversely proud! But, with the tick count cropping, the flood waters receding and the humidity & heat rising, a new nemesis has crashed the party: mosquitoes.
In the mid 1990s, Pioneer Quest tracked a year in the lives of 2 modern pioneer couples, who were required to build a cabin, break the land, and live precisely as pioneers in the area did in the 1800s. Those couples were inundated with natural disasters that year: excessive rainfall, exceptional summer heat, wicked mosquitoes and high snowfall & cold temperatures in the winter. It looks like we are on track to enjoy that same wonderful blast of nature. So must for minimalism!
Later this week, I will be providing details on the yurt design we have chosen, and the source of supplies. As construction progresses, I will provide photos and details, so that you can follow in our footsteps. Bring an umbrella and lots of mosquito repellent!

Regulations Stand in Way of Yurt Independence

2010-04-10T12:21:00.000-07:00

Attempting to try to live life a little differently from the “norm” is a lot like trying to outrun Usain Bolt while he is running the 100 yard dash and you are doing the hurdles. It is more than a challenge; it is a nightmare.
Lucky for us, when we began to plan the building of our yurt, we were aware of the myriad of building code, zoning and environmental issues that we had to overcome.
First, the building code. Although the universal building code is intended to provide a consistent standard of construction across Canada (and the USA), each jurisdiction is empowered to tinker with its specifics. In cities, of course, there is a need for consistency, to protect neighbours, to ensure fire risks are minimized and to protect future occupants of a home or building. Yet, each geographical area has its own challenges, so supplementary regulations are enacted. To a lesser degree, in rural settings, these standards are upheld.
However, the plethora of farm buildings that are constructed to meet unique needs – hay barns, cattle calving pens, machine sheds, etc. are hardly likely to become homes for families, so standards for outbuildings are less stringent. Many rural authorities turn a blind eye to poorly constructed shelters and outbuildings.
Nonetheless, innovative structures such as straw houses, bermed buildings and alternative design concepts are rejected by community planners. In fact, such a simple variation on a basement such as construction with pressure-treated lumber instead of concrete requires an engineer’s stamp of approval.
Many authorities also require adherence (justifiably so!) to environmental regulations. Waste disposal is just one of these concerns. However, even the height of a wind turbine is regulated. Over a specific height will require an environmental site assessment, a permit, and appropriate lighting to warn off low-flying aircraft. This regulation is enforced, even in extremely remote environments, where many of the trees or geographical features exceed the height requirements for permitting.
We have made several concessions to our local authorities regarding construction standards. However, our design may still violate legal requirements. For instance, our interior walls are not fire-rated to the minimum one hour. It’s hard to fire-rate a tarpaulin structure for that period! We have no holding tank. Not much need when we anaerobically digest our effluent, and use composting toilets. We do not have concrete piles to anchor our structure. It is overkill to anchor a structure that weighs about the same as a half-ton truck. Our bedroom does not have a regulation-sized escape window. On the other hand, our bedroom has no walls, and the rest of the yurt has four windows and a door. We have no electrical network that is inspected. Truth is, we have only a 12-volt power system with an inverter for some minor appliances, but a home does need wiring and plumbing, according to the building code.
So, we do not have a home. Our yurt is a “temporary” structure, like a workshop or barn, not intended to live within. At least, that is how our municipality sees it. I look forward to spending my retirement years living in my barn, thank you!

Yurt Energy Reduction

2010-04-01T08:06:00.000-07:00

One of the goals for which we aimed with our decision to move to a yurt was to reduce our energy consumption.
Yurts, being round, offer reduced heating costs per square foot of floor space because the air is able to circulate readily. Conversely, cooling is more effective due to the open design. This element of the yurt layout, of course, helps to cut energy consumption.
Our heating system is an outdoor wood furnace (in contemporary language, a “biomass converter”), which supplies heat to the greenhouses, workshop and yurt. The furnace design has been modified to enable us to do most of our cooking on top of the unit, to eliminate the need for an indoor electric or propane range. Supplementary cooking will be done in a toaster oven.
Rather than use a 240V well pump and pressure system to provide water, we will be using a modified 2-cycle engine-driven water pump to pump water from the well to overhead cistern units above the kitchen sink and bathroom area. Separate 20-liter sprayer tanks will be used to provide water spray necessary for hand washing, compost toilet cleaning and dish spraying. The shower head is a “rain shower” head, fed by gravity-driven water from the overhead cistern. Water is heated by the outdoor wood furnace and solar heat.
We have given away our refrigerator, along with our electric stove. The refrigerator, although energy efficient, was far larger than what two people required. In its place, we have purchased a 90-watt bar fridge (with small freezer compartment), and a half-sized, 60-watt bar fridge. The small unit will be used only when we absolutely require it (less than 25% of the time).
Our major concern was our lighting. Although individual lighting consumes relatively small amounts of energy, a person tends to neglect to turn off lights, to use too much lighting, or to use lighting that is too bright for the task at hand.
To charge my laptop, I plug it into a power inverter plugged into the car’s cigarette lighter.
By laying a white light-duty panelling over the interior walls, we reduce the need for lighting. Four 18’ x 48” mirrors are placed around the perimeter to reflect light, as well. We “traded in our three halogen floor lamps (250 watts each) for three $25 credits on energy efficient lights (thanks to our local electric company!). Now, our entire lighting consists of a 5-arm floor lamp with 13-watt CFLs, 20 solar lights marking our exterior entrance and walkway, one 20-watt Xenon puck light over the entrance inside the yurt, and four plug-in LED light packs, producing as much light, each, as a 150 watt incandescent bulb, but drawing a total of 4 watts of energy for all of them.
Our only other energy costs are costs to charge our cellular telephone (we have eliminated the landline), and our energy-efficient LCD television (used a maximum of 1 hour per day).
Total energy consumption is projected to be the equivalent of $4.00 per month (we use solar power, so there is no grid cost), compared to an average of $60 per month in our former home.

Yurt Design Considerations

2010-03-19T08:54:00.000-07:00

To design my yurt and decide whether to purchase a ready-made kit or build from scratch, I first have to decide on the appropriate size. Do I build a yurt the same size as a normal house, do I build the same size as a typical apartment, or do I build a yurt sized like a tent?
Because my wife and I will be the only people living in this Mongolian tent, we decided to scale our unit like that of an apartment, rather than a house. For a one-bedroom apartment, average sizes run from 460 sq. Ft. To 600 sq. Ft., while a typical house will be at least double that size for a 1- or 2-bederoom residence.
But there are other considerations in making the decision on size. In a house or apartment, hallway space takes up about 5-10% of a typical home. In a yurt, there are no hallways. In an average house, as much as 15% of the space is consumed by unusable corners, clear space around entranceways and stairways. Again, there are no corners, no stairs and minimal need for entranceways, since the yurt will have a “great room” design. So, if you want the equivalent of a 2-bedroom apartment for space, reduce your yurt size by 25%. That brings a 2-bedroom unit down to around 600 sq. Ft.
Because yurts have no interior support walls, and a framework considerably lighter than a conventional house, clear spans need to be considered. Most North American yurt suppliers offer maximum sizes up to 30-32 feet in diameter. This size, it appears, is the maximum area to ensure solid structural design.
We have decided on a 28 foot diameter (605 sq ft) structure, since we anticipate little need for a large second bedroom, and we wish to enjoy maximum space for many indoor activities during the cold winter months.
There are a half-dozen quality yurt suppliers in Canada and the USA, with \Colorado Yurts and Yurtco being , in our view, the premier suppliers. On a 30-foot unit, prices begin at $7,800, with costs rising to more than $18,000 once additional features such as extra insulation, domes, roof supports, long-life fabric, upgraded windows, etc. are added in.
While this is significantly less than the cost of a new home of a comparable size ($32,000 -80,000), it is a price that can be significantly reduced if you construct your own yurt. In fact, the design which we settled upon can be constructed for well under $6,000!
In the next blog, I will discuss the preliminary factors you need to consider before choosing a design or location, including zoning & building codes, water supply, location, terrain and intended use.

Building a Yurt: The Pioneering Process

2010-02-24T17:56:00.001-08:00

It is hard to envision “success” as moving from an upscale home in the suburbs to a tent in the wilderness of central Manitoba, yet that is precisely how my wife and I define “arriving.”
Thirty-five years ago, and again 25 years ago, I walked away from a new home, my entire bank accounts & savings, and every piece of furniture, voluntarily, as part of divorce settlements. Twenty years ago, I built, with my partner, a $5 million business in less than two years, starting with a $45,000 per year personal services operation. Two years later, I sold my half of the company to my partner for $17,500 – 1/50th of the value. Ten years ago, I discarded a lakefront home and middle class house in the city in favour of a 64 square foot shack in the bush – a move I considered to be progress.
The principle that guided each of these so-called irrational decisions is one I learned early in life. What you own is less important than what you feel. In each case, I felt freedom, and owned piece of mind.
In June, at my wife’s suggestion, we will build our own yurt on an 80-acre plot of meadow and bush, in north central Manitoba. We will be debt free, free to travel, and unburdened by daily pressures. We will also be living in a glorified tent, in a climate that can cough up minus 45 degree winter days regularly.
For the past several months, we have evaluated a half dozen very reputable suppliers of yurts, from Colorado Yurt, to Yurtco, to BC Yurt. In the end, though, we felt that we needed a structure custom-designed for our environment. It will be built at a significant reduction in costs, with only a modest sacrifice in quality. But it will be ours, and it will be our home for the next several decades.
One of the critical considerations in designing, or buying, a yurt is the recognition that, for the most part, yurts will not meet building codes for permanent residences in most cities. They have fire rating issues, plumbing & electrical impediments, and structural discrepancies related to building codes. Yet, they are well-constructed, safe and comfortable homes for those who prefer to “live off the grid.”
Indeed, we will be living off the grid. No outside hydro, gas or water supply. But we will need minimal electrical power, will be relying on solar, wind, geothermal and biomass heating and lighting systems that we designed. We will rely on our market garden for 80% of our food, with another 20% coming from barter.
This is a journey for us that we want to share with others. We invite you to follow us each week as we plan, prepare and build our yurt. We invite you to share our lives as we spend our first year in our new home. Join us on our pioneer journey!