The Emerald: consider yourselves warned (photo by Monica Byers)

NEW YORK, NY – We stumbled into The Emerald as an unplanned stopover on my husband’s birthday, between dinner in TriBeCa and a planned trip to the Meatpacking District for live music.  It was a hot, muggy night and a quick mid-trip pint seemed in order.  The Emerald was a never-before-visited, random choice for our pit stop, but the sign on the bar (above) was our indication that this was our kind of joint.

Rear bar at The Emerald (photo by Monica Byers)

The Emerald is a SoHo watering hole that is equal parts pub (the front bar area), cave (the back bar area) and “gothic ski lodge” (in the words of one patron).  The place is attitude-free  - an amazing feat in a part of town not necessarily known for regular Joe-ness – with a friendly bar staff and a jukebox (hence the admonition about the perils of playing “Call Me, Maybe”).   80s pop was the soundtrack on the night we hung out there – downright awesome for those of us of a certain age.

What is the little thing that makes Emerald Pub worth a visit?  A fun,relaxed environment where you can knock back a few and let your hair down.

Where is it?  308 Spring Street, New York.

For more from Monica, follow her on Twitter at @MonicaJuniel.

For the latest in travel, follow us on Twitter at @ZenArtOfTravel.

Thompson Street (photo by Tony Byers)

BY:  MONICA BYERS

NEW YORK, NY – I have a special affection for Thompson Street in the Village.  My ZATAOT partner in crime, Gary, was lucky enough to live on this street for a while.  Except I don’t think he counted himself quite so lucky – he found it annoyingly student-y (NYU is just around the corner) or, at least, too much so for actual grown-ups like us.  Still, I find it incredibly charming.

Thompson Street actually starts just north of Canal Street in SoHo and runs north for 8 blocks, ending at the weird and wonderful Washington Square Park.  The cuteness kicks in once you cross Broome Street and enter a relatively quiet residential area with fancy restaurants, beguiling cafes, tree-lined streets, a few high-end shops and even a playground.  The uniquely Greenwich Village brand of funky quirk kicks in once you cross Houston Street where, whether you turn left or right, a whole array of bars await ranging from masters of mixology (Pegu Club is one excellent cocktail bar) to saucy saloons (check out Madame X for a particularly sexy experience) to divey pubs.  Reach Bleecker Street and you’re now firmly in NYU Town and also my favorite part of Thompson Street.

The Dude welcomes you, Little Lebowski on Thompson Street (photo by Monica Byers)

Why?  Because it’s one of the most eclectic areas around. The single block between Bleecker and W. 3^rd Streets includes three (three!) chess shops, a wonderful Cuban restaurant (more on that here), vintage clothing stores, a record shop (vinyl!), a punfully-named chicken shack (Pluck U – see what they did there?) and a shop dedicated merchandise related to the movie The Big Lebowski.   It just doesn’t get much odder, or more fabulous, than this.  And you can enjoy all this character in a non-crowded setting – this area is not exactly a tourist Mecca (the slower-moving Empire State Building/Times Square sorts prefer to wander the main streets of SoHo).

Village Chess Shop on Thompson Street (photo by Monica Byers)

What is the little thing that makes Thompson Street worth a stroll?  Charming eccentricity.  If you’re short on time, start at Houston and head north for the most interesting part of your stroll.  If you’ve got oodles of time and are thirsty for an adult beverage, check out the watering holes on Houston and Bleecker Streets, then carry on to nearby Sullivan and MacDougal streets to the west.

Where is it?  Thompson Street runs south to north, parallel to West Broadway one block west.  It begins just north of Canal Street (easiest to take Grand Street west) and ends at Washington Square South.

For more from Monica, follow her on Twitter at @MonicaJuniel.

For the latest in travel, follow us on Twitter at @ZenArtOfTravel.

McSorley’s Old Ale House (photo by Monica Byers)

By MONICA BYERS

NEW YORK, NY – I almost didn’t write a piece on McSorley’s.  I assumed that a place trading so heavily on its longevity (more on that below) through the medium of extensive verbiage on its windows would be a horrible tourist trap.  And, indeed there are quite a few tourists at McSorley’s.   But there is also a great deal of charm to this place and, in the end, I was glad I made the trip.

McSorley’s tells us that they were established in 1854 but – based on property and census records – there has been a bit of dispute over this.  Even so, we’re only talking about potentially a few years difference so the motto on their window, “We were here before you were born”, is true either way as is the fact that McSorley’s is New York’s oldest continuously operating bar. Apparently nothing has been removed from the walls since 1910 and it shows – stepping into McSorley’s is like walking into a time capsule, between the old wall hangings (including news articles about the bar’s notorious “Men Only” policy in place until 1970) and the original fixtures including a potbelly stove smack dab in the middle of the joint.  You’ll also find a chatty bartender and an eclectic mix of regulars swapping stories and jibes while standing at the bar (no barstools, just like a proper old-school Irish pub).  If you’re the sitting type, there are tables throughout the establishment and – surprisingly – there is table service.

Bar at McSorley’s (photo by Tony Byers)

One thing you will NOT find at McSorley’s is a variety of beverages.  You get two booze choices here – light ale and dark ale.  That’s it.  So, if you’re not a beer drinker your only other option – according to the bar’s website (I stuck to ale, so I don’t know about this first hand) – are house sodas.  The beer is an ok deal – $5.00 for two half-pints (yes, they only serve ale in increments of roughly 8 oz pours – quirky!).  There is also a limited food menu, with the cheese plate apparently being the best option.

Light and Dark Ales at McSorley’s (photo by Tony Byers)

My tip here:  arrive early.  Very early.  This place gets absolutely rammed, so much so that it’s quite impossible to get in or out when it’s at its busiest.

What is the little thing that makes McSorley’s worth a visit?  Genuine – not faux – old-school charm and a whole lot of history hanging on the walls.

Where is it?  15 East 7th Street (a stone’s throw from Cooper Union), New York.

For more from Monica, follow her on Twitter at @MonicaJuniel.

For the latest in travel, follow us on Twitter at @ZenArtOfTravel.

The Bubble Lounge (photo by Monica Byers)

By MONICA BYERS

NEW YORK, NY – I love champagne so much I could cry.  Champagne bars, on the other hand, can frequently disappoint by either trying to hard, being too serious or just flat out not knowing what they’re doing.  The Bubble Lounge – while not completely perfect – is quite an agreeable place to gulp down the bubbly.

I started coming to The Bubble Lounge a few years back, before I moved to New York.  I loved it right from the beginning – on that first visit, they brought down a big screen and showed Xanadu with the sound muted.  Surreal, to say the least, but definitely in a good way. Other nights there have seen strong DJs in the house, spinning everything from 70s funk and disco to jazz.  I even came here after my wedding reception and danced the night away.

The place is still well worth a visit even in the early evening when they’re not showing cult movies from the 1980s or spinning great tunes.  The décor is classy meets eclectic meets cozy – featuring comfy chairs and sofas that make you want to linger all night, and curious (I really can’t think of a better way to describe them) drawings on the walls that remind you that you’re in a champagne joint.  And that women have curves.  The champagne list is encyclopedic, and this is the source of my one gripe about The Bubble Lounge – unless you’re an expert, finding your way to a great bottle isn’t easy.  Not only is the extensive list a bit of work to wade through, but staff knowledge is hit and miss – so expect to be pretty much on your own here.  Still, with literally hundreds of sparkling wine options on the menu (plus cocktails), you’re bound to find something that suits your palate as well as your pocketbook.

Comfy seats at The Bubble Lounge (photo by Monica Byers)

Eclectic champagne-themed art at The Bubble Lounge (photo by Monica Byers)

What is the little thing that makes The Bubble Lounge worth a visit?  It manages to be a reasonably classy yet unpretentious spot to quaff a few high falutin’ bevvies.  Come for the champagne, stay for the party.

Where is it?  Chalk up another winner for my fave NYC street (228 West Broadway, New York).

For more from Monica, follow her on Twitter at @MonicaJuniel.

For the latest in travel, follow us on Twitter at @ZenArtOfTravel.

West Broadway Street (photo by Monica Byers)

By MONICA BYERS

NEW YORK, NY – It’s hard to wander around New York City without suffering a degree of neighborhood envy on a nearly daily basis.  So many awesome areas – can you possibly pick a favorite?  Against all odds, I think I have managed to do just that.

West Broadway is, in my opinion, the very best-est street in the Big Apple.  I am particularly partial to the section beginning south at Grand Street and heading north to Houston (that’s “how-ston” for you non-New Yorkers) Street.  Why?   So many reasons….

1.  Because it’s got everything.  Fancy a stroll through a gallery or – even better – picking up a new objet d’art?  Great – you’ve got loads to choose from just on this one street.  Need a bit of retail therapy?  Boom – there are clothing shops, shoe stores, purveyors of fine jewelry and others all along the way.  Hungry or thirsty?  Dig in – there are all manner of restaurants and bars.  Need a place to rest your head for the night?  The Soho Grand and the Smyth are among the establishments right there to welcome you.

Galleries along West Broadway Street (photo by Gary Fong)

2.  Because – amazingly for super-trendy – Soho, it’s fairly tourist-free.  Not that we don’t love our visitors, of course, but sometimes it’s really nice to walk down a street that isn’t chock full of folks who are lost, taking photos or just plain mesmerized.

3.  Because it’s eclectic, seeming to have absorbed the best bits of its surrounding areas – the funkiness and great shopping of Soho, the laid back-ness of Tribeca and the detached cool of the West Village.

Here are some of my favorite spots along the way:

Clockwise from left: Soho Grand Hotel, Pop International Gallery, Links of London, Ristorante Barolo, Elie Tahari, Broome Street Bar (photos by Monica Byers and Gary Fong)

Soho Grand Hotel, 310 West Broadway:  Wonderful boutique hotel with a fab bar.

Pop International Gallery, 473 W. Broadway:  An energetic space specializing in pop and urban art.

Links of London, 402 W. Broadway:  A great jewelry shop I used to frequent during my time in the eponymous city.

Barolo, 398 W. Broadway:  Very cute Italian place.  Try the apple-filled ravioli in lamb ragu.  Sounds weird, tastes heavenly.

Elie Tahari, 417 W. Broadway:  One of my favorite designers, conveniently situated for me to blow all my money.

Broome Street Bar, 363 W. Broadway:  Arguably some of the best burgers in NYC.

What is the little thing that makes West Broadway Street worth a stroll?  It’s got everything you need, delivered with loads of style.

Where is it?  West Broadway runs south to north, parallel to Broadway on the west side.  It begins at Vesey Street (though it is more accessible one block north at Barclay Street) and ends at Houston (where it turns into LaGuardia Place).

For more from Monica, follow her on Twitter at @MonicaJuniel.

For the latest in travel, follow us on Twitter at @ZenArtOfTravel.

New York Vintners (photo by Monica Byers)

By MONICA BYERS

NEW YORK, NY – Tucked away on a quiet Tribeca street is New York Vintners, which calls itself “more than a wine shop.”  And, indeed it is.

As the name implies there is wine for sale in the front-of-store shop, which offers a good selection of great wines.  But New York Vintners also wants to teach you all about wine so that, well, you’ll buy more wine. To that end, on offer are a mess o’ classes about wine, cooking and how food and wine interact.  There are also sessions with winemakers from around the world.  All of this takes place in the back-of-store kitchen and event space.

Wine shop at New York Vintners (photo by Monica Byers)

Kitchen at New York Vintners (photo by Monica Byers)

My husband and I recently attended one of the establishment’s most popular sessions, “Pizza and the Wines that Love It.”  I know it’s popular because it took me months to find two openings in this particular class.  And it did not disappoint; we picked up some tips on pizza-creation and cooking, got a better idea of how to be discerning wine drinkers, and – perhaps best of all – we walked out with full stomachs and slightly buzzed heads.  If you’re a visitor to New York and looking for something non-touristy to do, this is definitely worth checking out (you’ll need to do a little advanced planning, though – you can book classes by visiting www.newyorkvintners.com).  If you’re a local, you have no excuse not to visit – you live here for Pete’s sake!

Unbelievably yummy! “Pizza and the Wines that Love It” at New York Vintners (photo by Monica Byers)

What is the little thing that makes it worth a visit?  A little NYC-style culinary education.  Plus, food and booze – what other reason could you possibly need?

Where is it?  21 Warren Street, New York.

For more from Monica, follow her on Twitter at @MonicaJuniel.

For the latest in travel, follow us on Twitter at @ZenArtOfTravel.

Raccoon Lodge (photo by Monica Byers)

By MONICA BYERS

NEW YORK – I stumbled across Raccoon Lodge while making the trek from the Financial District to the Tribeca Whole Foods.  Based solely on the name I was dying to try this place and – when I finally visited – I was rewarded with pure dive bar joy.

Raccoon Lodge: The Raccoon watching over the bar (photo by Monica Byers)

I can’t say this is a strictly locals place as I’ve seen the occasional tourist here over the course of my now several visits, but it is pretty much patronized by New Yorkers.   It’s got all the de rigueur working man’s bar stuff – pool table, jukebox and an assortment of game machines:  Ms. PacMan (!), PowerStrike (boxing) and Big Buck Hunter (errr…hunting).  It even has a photo booth!  Raccoon Lodge also has the distinction of being one of the only businesses in this neighborhood operating just after 9/11, having re-opened just two weeks following the attack.

I like coming here on Saturday afternoons when there aren’t many people in the bar – for us, it’s almost always a stop en route to doing something productive (it’s almost inevitable that said productive activity will never come to pass after one of these detours).  My husband and I enjoy chatting with the friendly bar staff and the various regulars we meet here.  On more than one occasion, our 2 pm “quick beer” has devolved into an 11 pm stumble out the door…..such is the ability of the Raccoon Lodge to suck you in.

Raccoon Lodge: There goes another Saturday afternoon….. (photo by Monica Byers)

What is the little thing that makes it worth visiting?  It’s the diviest of dive bars…..in a good way.  Check out the various snapshots from The Honeymooners – an apparent homage to Ralph and Ed being members of the Raccoon Lodge of Brooklyn.

Where is it?  Raccoon Lodge is located at 59 Warren Street (near West Broadway) in the Battery Park/Financial District.  Some people call this neighborhood Tribeca – I feel that it’s about two blocks too far south to do so.

For more from Monica, follow her on Twitter at @MonicaJuniel.

For the latest in travel, follow us on Twitter at @ZenArtOfTravel.

Welcome to the Johnsons – Exterior

By MONICA BYERS

NEW YORK – I’m somewhat bi-polar about my drinking and dining preferences.  On the one hand, I love dressing up (sort of) to go out to a classy cocktail lounge for an evening of dirty martini indulgence.  On the other hand, I equally love finding a fun scuzzy place for slumming away the evening.  The thing that establishments on either end of the continuum must have in common is some element of charm or character.  My pick for slimy-meets-charming in NYC is Welcome to the Johnsons.  I like this place because (1) it’s ironic, (2) it’s cheap , (3) it’s always good fun and (4) if you’re a 99 Percenter, you’ll enjoy serving the cause of justice by supporting this bar.  In order:

Ironic:  The joint is a dive bar dressed up as a 1970s basement, complete with wood paneled walls (except behind the bar, where the wall is adorned with the same dreadful mirrored tiles that my parents – without a hint of irony – put on the walls of our formal living room), brown color scheme, beat up pool table and wagon wheel-esque chair and sofa in the bar’s “lounge” area.

“Lounge” at Welcome to the Johnsons (photo by Monica Byers)

Cheap:  $2 PBRs, anyone?  There are also cheap ($4 well and $5 call) mixed drinks, which are served pretty strong based on my watching the bartender’s pours.  An absolute steal for this, the most over-priced of cities.

Bar at Welcome to the Johnsons – check out the mirror tiles…… (photo by Monica Byers)

Fun:  The bar staff are always friendly and chatty, and the clientele ranges from metalhead biker-types to young hipsters.  And, the jukebox is kickass.

Justice:  Welcome to the Johnsons has been subject to a fair amount of harassment from New York’s finest, culminating in its temporary closure over the summer of 2011.  My theory is that the City is simply trying to create a homogenized upscale vibe all over town by driving out the more working class establishments – but that view may just make me a conspiracy theorist.  What is true, however, is that you’ll definitely need your valid government-issued id to drink here – the bar staff absolutely won’t serve you without it (as my British husband found out the hard  way – he didn’t have his passport or green card handy, so was on virgin Bloody Marys all night).

Speaking of Bloody Marys…..come in on the weekend, and they’ll make you an incredibly intricate, spicy version.  Think one whole pickle spear, horseradish, Tabasco, assorted spices & veggies and, the piece de resistance….wait for it….beef jerky.

The spectacular Bloody Mary at Welcome to the Johnsons (photo by Monica Byers)

What is the little thing that makes it worth visiting?  If you enjoy cheap drinks, homages to 1970s middle-class glory and supporting the underdog, this place is for you.

Where is it?  Welcome to the Johnsons is in New York’s Lower East Side at 123 Rivington Street (near Essex Street).

For more from Monica, follow her on Twitter at @MonicaJuniel.

For the latest in travel, follow us on Twitter at @ZenArtOfTravel.

By MONICA BYERS

NEW YORK – I’m just going to put it out there – while I love Rolf’s any time of year, I really, really adore this German bar/restaurant during the Christmas season.  I’d never heard of Rolf’s until a friend described it as being a place where “Santa threw up.”  Beginning right around the 2^nd week of November and continuing through the holiday season, come into Rolf’s and you’ll be greeted by more than 80,000 Christmas lights, an abundance of colorful ornaments and a collection of slightly creepy dolls – all strung up in such mass that you won’t be sure how to move around the place.  It’s as though – quite literally – someone visited Wal-Mart, purchased each and every Christmas decoration they had in stock, and put it all up in this not-very-large establishment.  But that’s all part of the charm – navigate your way to a seat at the bar, treat yourself to some mulled wine, enjoy a chat with the friendly bartenders and patrons (locals – you won’t find many tourists at Rolf’s), sing along with the endless of loop of seasonal tunes, and have yourself a Merry Little Christmas.

What’s the “little thing” that makes Rolf’s worthwhile?  I’m a sucker for the uber-festive holiday vibe though, I admit, this can sometimes horrify people – particularly if they are not big fans of Christmas.   Personally, I find it impossible not to feel happy at while sitting on a barstool at Rolf’s.

Where is it?  281 Third Avenue – at the corner of Third Avenue and 22^nd Street.

For more from Monica, follow her on Twitter at @MonicaJuniel.

For the latest in travel, follow us on Twitter at @ZenArtOfTravel.

  (Photos:  Gary Fong)

By MONICA BYERS

LONDON – I admit I am biased, having resided in two different flats near Hoxton Square during my London years.  Having duly disclosed this, I still say that this setting is, to me, one of the reasons why London is so fab.  Situated in the East End, Hoxton Square is one of the city’s oldest garden squares and has been heart of the Hoxton arts scene.  Nowadays, it’s a stone’s throw from what’s been dubbed the “Silicon Roundabout” – home to loads of tech startups and the UK’s answer to Silicon Valley in the US.

What is it?  Hoxton Square is a lovely green, tree-filled oasis from the concrete and litter of East London.  It’s not as Bohemian as it once was (£1M flats have a way of changing the neighborhood), but it’s still a mecca for the young, the trendy and – on the weekends – the fashionably drunken. It’s also a lovely place to put down a blanket on a sunny (well, sunny for London) afternoon and enjoy a picnic.   On weekend evenings, the local council used to bring in outdoor urinals for the male half of the considerable crowd of merrymakers…..I wonder if they still do this.   Anyway, Hoxton Square is small but atmospheric.  Come here without agenda – just hang out and enjoy the vibe.

What is there to do around here besides sit on a bench?  The square is absolutely surrounded by restaurants and some very cool bars.  Hoxton Square is also home to the eastern outpost of the White Cube Gallery if you are inclined to get your culture on.  Nearby, there are quite a few eclectic shops (including Sh! Women’s Erotic Emporium, where a man cannot enter unless accompanied by a female companion) and Circus Space, where one can actually earn a degree in Circus Arts.  I am not making this up.  The rather whimsical map below may provide some insight into the square’s vibe – I especially like “Restaurant With An Identity Crisis.”

Where is it?  Hoxton Square is in London’s East End – north of the City of London (the square mile traditional financial district), in an area that is significantly less overrun with tourists than the more famous West End and Covent Garden.  The nearest Tube is Old Street (Northern Line) and the 55 and 243 buses practically drop you into the square.

For more from Monica, follow her on Twitter at @MonicaJuniel.

For the latest in travel, follow us on Twitter at @ZenArtOfTravel.

Hand drawn map of Hoxton Square by Martin Usborne, sourced from londonist.com

White Cube Gallery in Hoxton Square (photo by Monica Byers)