Zen Waterman

Waves, Waves Everywhere by Len Barrow

noreply@blogger.com (Robert Stehlik) — Thu, 05 Jan 2012 05:52:00 +0000

SUP surfing and paddling in rough water is truly a meditative endeavor. I am amazed at the amount of attention that is required to keep your board moving. You see, as a lie down surfer for 30+ years, I viewed the ocean from a lie down perspective. The Beauty of SUP paddling is that you see the ocean from a stand up “lens”. You are also literally forced to observe the ocean and its swells. If you don’t do this, a little wave will just throw you off the board. When it comes to the water, sometimes I get a big ego as I have a US Championship in Longboarding and a lot of surfing experience. I love SUP Surfing as I am humbled every time I paddle and surf my SUP. It destroys my ego, as SUP paddling forces me to pay attention. It is truly a type of meditation.

One day I was SUP surfing Kewalos. I decided to use a technique that ancient Polynesian and Micronesian Navigators used to find directions on dark, cloudy nights when the stars were not present to navigate their canoes. They would use the feel of the swell running under their canoes. If they were heading due north, the navigators would pick a swell that was coming from the north (in relation to the last Northern facing star that was seen) and head into it. They would “feel” the swell would move under the bow, run along the hull and exit at the stern. The navigators would pick multiple swell directions to calibrate exact directions. In the above scenario, if a swell were coming from the east, and you had a double hull canoe, it would hit the eastern hull first and the western hull next and exit. The late Micronesian Navigator Mau Pialug who taught Hawaiian Nainoa Thompson (of the Hokulea) his navigation techniques was said to be able to sense a matrix of over 8+ swells. He could even tell if a swell was refracting off an island! The Micronesians, Polynesians and Hawaiians ARE a brilliant people……

If Colombus lost his compass he would be lost .

Using this method, substituting my sup as a canoe, I was wondering how many swells I could observe as I paddled around Kewalos. The tide was very high and the water was bumpy. As I stood outside of the break, I was buffeted off my board (9’6 surfing SUP) by a bizarre tiny series of waves coming from the west. The West side was flat and I wondered where the waves were coming from. To my surprise I saw two fishing boats about 1.5 miles out chugging along due west! The west swell was from their wake! This was getting fun. It was the perfect “Pay Attention” game. Another small swell kept throwing me off my board but it was coming from the shore. I thought to myself, what the hell? The land does not create waves? The same wave threw me off again. I suddenly realized that this swell coming from the shore was actually a south swell bouncing off the 7 foot shore wall to become a North swell hitting my tail (stern) and exiting my nose (bow)!

Next I observed that there was a south swell running directly under my nose (Bow) and exiting my tail (stern) but there was another swell hitting my south east facing rail and exiting the south west facing rail. Where was it from? I realized it was an east trade wind swell that had wrapped around to the south shore. I went back home to surf-line to check the swell directions to see if I was correct. Bingo. I had accurately predicted the angles of the primary swells using Mau Pialug’s non-instrumental techniques!

I was so happy. I felt like a little navigator enmeshed in Natures Ocean. I had identified a matrix of 4 swells! It was like a wonderful Zen meditation. My thoughts were clear and I felt refreshed for the rest of the day.

I have been practicing like this since. I have been able to recognize a matrix of six swells at best. This practice almost blends you into the oceans rhythm and I would not have known this if it were not taught by the last Navigator Mau Pialug too the Hawaiian Nainoa Thompson. Mahalo Nui to the Micronesians and Hawaiians and all who came before them for these wonderful experiences.

Try this method. It opens up the oceans mind……….which is your mind.

SUP paddle trainer version 4.0- the Vasa trainer

noreply@blogger.com (Robert Stehlik) — Mon, 19 Dec 2011 21:54:00 +0000

After pioneering the use of stand up paddle simulators, developing many prototypes and testing many different mechanisms and balance boards, we feel like we now have a simple, very effective indoor SUP training simulator that can greatly improve paddle technique, strength, stamina and endurance on the days you can't get in the water.

About the balance board:
After testing many versions of balance boards including using springs, adjustable rubber joints, balance/ bosu balls, a hydraulic joint system, roller boards, foam inserts and foam tubes, and many versions of rocker boards, we developed a simple rocker board that simulates a balance feel similar to being on a board in the water and won't rotate when paddling. This rocker board is the closest simulation to the balancing required when stand up paddling we have found. We have found that mechanical joints do not provide a good simulation of the balance required. Using a balance board when training is important as it provides a full body workout and improves technique and skill as you have to keep the body weight balanced over the center of the board. Without a balance board, the tendency is to put too much weight on the stroke side.

For more information and videos of our previous versions, please visit this post:

Stand Up Paddle training simulator by Robert Stehlik

We offer a simple, inexpensive version using stretch cords at:
http://www.paddlecoretrainer.com/

The much more advanced version using the Vasa trainer space saver unit with SUP kit provides the most realistic stroke, recovery and balance simulation currently available.
Blue Planet Surf is the exclusive source for the Vasa Trainer SUP kit, including a three in one paddle that can be used as a regular SUP paddle, trainer paddle and two sided paddle that allows the best simulation of the correct stroke path without any extra mechanical moving parts (as the arm used in version 2).

Please watch the video below for more information on the Vasa trainer with SUP kit and to see it in action.

Here is the video showing the Paddle Core Trainer kit:

The new Paddle core trainer now comes with a fully functional 3 piece SUP paddle that can be converted into a trainer shaft. The balance rocker board is designed to give you the sensation of standing on a board and keeps your center of gravity centered and balanced. Also includes 6 pc. resistance band kit and instructional DVD. For more information, please click here.

Social “Surf” Intelligence: How some SUP surfers get Respect in the Surf Line-Up While Some Do Not, by Len Barrow

noreply@blogger.com (Robert Stehlik) — Mon, 12 Dec 2011 19:57:00 +0000

In the past few years I have met a few Sup Surfers that get a great deal of respect in the surf. As an Anthropologist, I have made it a point to observe there social techniques. The methods that these surfers used were quite surprising yet most sensible. Also, SUP surfers new to the game can adapt these methods with great ease. That’s the good news!

Before we get into their techniques, it is important to recognize that in In SUP surfing you are almost given absolute power in regards to which wave you want. You are figuratively given the “nuclear option” to get any wave you desire, even if you are of modest skill. Some SUP surfers who are new to the sport may have the American mentality that “I purchased this board and this is a public surf break therefore I can do whatever I want”. Technically this is true, yet with this attitude, one runs into a wall or over the nearest cliff vis-à-vis surf subculture. Surfers have their own cultural code. Most surfers are concerned with behavior and politeness, not on what you own or do on land. You may be the CEO of a large corporation and drive a Mercedes and have great prestige on land yet a strange cultural phenomenon occurs. Anthropologists call it a ” Social Inversion” . American “Land Culture” and its hierarchies are flipped upside down in the water. All of your prestige on land means absolutely nothing in the water. In fact, the prestigious people in the water are often poppers on land!

If you are new to surf etiquette and surf culture this paper will help you get along with surfers. Surfing social rules are not written down thus they are difficult for the beginner to decipher. The surfer’s code is just that, an unwritten code that has many variables according to time and place. You could actually write a large book on the code as it is most variable.

Despite the codes complexity and unwritten status a few things can be done to fit your SUP in as one of the surfing tribe.

Surf Only to Your Skill Level “Size and Conditions”

In the surfing subculture, “safety behaviors” factor in dominantly at some levels of the surfers code. When you surf your SUP in bigger waves, honestly evaluate your skill set. Regular surfers are required to do this at some time in their careers as they have endangered others. There is nothing worse than a beginner zooming down a twelve foot face into a crowd of surfers. I have been run over by a SUP at double over head Mokuleia. Let me tell you that this is not fun. The guy had a quad and it was 4x the pain across my back. I was lucky. I did not get severely hurt. Other surfers have gotten horribly injured. This will ruin your reputation as surfers will regard you as a danger in the surf. In surf etiquette and surfing subculture a dangerous surfer/SUPer are of the lowest rank, an often asked to leave due to safety issues. I am not saying these beliefs and actions are right or wrong. I am just indicating that they exist as part of the surfing subculture. At any rate evaluating your skill set will help yourself and other to keep safe.

“Talk Story” with Everyone.

In Hawaii, “Talk Story” is local pigeon for being genuinely friendly and casually chatting with people with stories for no real reason other than to talk. In Hawaii it is a normal thing to do, even with strangers. It’s actually fun and part of everyday local life here in the islands.

One guy that does this to great effect is our Hawaii State Surfing SUP Champion Tommy Chun-Min. Everyone knows Tommy! He is the only SUP even “allowed” out at Kewalo’s (this point is hyper-localized by short-boarders). Mr. Chun-Min will paddle out and actually greet everyone. Even new-comers! He always has something interesting and nice to say and people look forward to talking to him.

If you are from the states this may sound like ingenuously bullshitting your way around yet humans are social creatures. By talking to people you make social connections. In this type of connection an informal social contract arises. You become an acquaintance and generally friendly, thus must share the waves. By sharing with your new friend, he or she reciprocates (this is called generalized reciprocity in Anthropology) by giving your acquaintance respect and waves! In layman’s terms, it’s hard to burn a friend (unless you are a sociopath). Therefore make friends! It’s that simple. If you don’t believe me try the behavior.

Use Non Verbal Queue’s

After you have gotten a set wave, paddle out slowly. By doing this you are nonverbally communicating that you are not a wave hog and relaxed. If you paddle out like a Viking hell bent on pillaging the waves. People will not take kindly to this. You will get a bad reputation in short order and surfers have a way of dealing with over-zealous Suppers. Even though you can get every wave on your Sup, you cannot block surfers from taking off “BEHIND” you ruining “your” wave by surfing 6 inches in back of you. Some surfers have this method fined tuned and I see the idea developing rather rapidly.

When you paddle back out outside, sit down on your SUP on occasion. I am a Symbolic Anthropologist. My writings are not just the musings of a non-violent person. When you are “erect” on your SUP while surfers are lying down it conveys a “dominance display” type behavior on behalf of the SUP rider even though the Sup surfer does not mean it. This may sound funny but it occurs. By sitting down you convey the message that you are chill and respectful to all. If you think that sitting down on you SUP is for weak people, I have seen Bonga Perkins, Duane Desoto, Robin Johnston and Kanoa Beaupre use this method quite frequently. They certainly are NOT weak people. In fact they are rippers who get along well with others.

Always Look Backwards to Observe Who Did Not Get Waves.

Kainoa Beaupre is respected by both shortboarders and longboarders as he has a special way of sharing. Mr. Beaupre will often look back to see who is getting waves and who is not. If a set wave comes in and is heading towards a person who has not gotten a good wave in a while, Kainoa will yell go! go! to that individual. He has even done this kindly to me a couple of times before. Even though he can get every wave, he makes sure that everyone has fun. This endears Kainoa to all. Mr. Beaupre has a lot of Aloha. He is a buddy of mine and this is one of the reason I dig him.

The good news is that SUP surfers and Board surfers can get along. There is no need to have conflict if we practice a few pleasantries. Basically it’s all about sharing the waves. And Guess what!

SHARING=ALOHA

SHARING=ZEN

Interview and videos by Connor Baxter

noreply@blogger.com (Robert Stehlik) — Thu, 24 Nov 2011 08:24:00 +0000

Connor Baxter has been dominating the SUP race scene this year, winning races almost every weekend on Maui, Oahu and internationally. He finished the 32 mile Molokai to Oahu race in an incredible time of 4:26, which was 28 minutes faster than the previous record.
After the 2011 Duke's race, which was part of the annual Duke's Fest, I had a chance to sit down with him for a personal interview. Evan Leong of standuppaddlesurf.net filmed and edited.

Also below, find some of the videos edited and posted by Connor Baxter.
Double click to watch the videos full screen.

Africa SUPfari:

Connor Surfing:

12'6" SUP race board speed test by Robert Stehlik

noreply@blogger.com (Robert Stehlik) — Mon, 07 Nov 2011 09:28:00 +0000

It's been a while since our unlimited board test, where I said we would soon organize a test of 12'6" and 14' boards.
My friend Scotty had two 12'6 Hobie race boards and a Bark that he wanted to comparison test. I brought four more 12'6's for a total of 7 boards to test, which worked out perfectly as seven testers showed up bright and early on a Saturday morning (Nov. 6th, 2011) to go through the rigorous 14 laps needed to test all the boards. Photos and specs of the individual boards are shown below. Unfortunately there were some wind gusts that affected times of the individual runs but because each board was tested in each run, these variations in conditions should average out over the results. Also, some of us had to run 8 rounds as someone tested the same board twice somewhere along the way, which threw everything off a little but in the end everyone toughed it out and tested all seven boards.

After posting the unlimited test results on the Standup Zone forum, I got lots of good feedback that we tried to incorporate into this test, including recording the dimensions and weights of each board tested as well as taking pictures of each board outline and profile. The test lap is a .21 course that runs downwind one way and upwind the other way. Each tester used each board on one downwind and one upwind run with a 1-2 minute break in between. As we were running many laps, the instructions were to make sure to keep their energy output consistent and not use all their strength in the first few laps to avoid slowing down towards the end of the test. We also staggered the start with 10 seconds or so between each tester to avoid the "group effect" and switched boards randomly.

If you look at the test results spreadsheet, you will see that the times for Anders, the fastest tester, were quite consistent with a relatively small spread between fastest and slowest times, compared to some of the other testers that had a bigger spread between the slowest and fastest times. Everyone in the test was a capable paddler and I wanted to have testers of different abilities to make the results more relevant for the average users. To give equal weight to each paddlers results, I ranked each individuals results and added them up for an average ranking, resulting in a somewhat different ranking than using the total times.

I brought a 12'6" x 29" touring board that we received as a sample from a manufacturer, so I thought this would be a good occasion to test it. We were all disappointed by it's performance in comparison to the other boards in the test and it needs some improvement. To be fair, it was designed to be a more stable and durable touring board, vs. the lightweight (and more expensive) pure raceboards it was tested against. It was the widest, heaviest, and slowest board in the test.

I was somewhat surprised by the good results of the 12'6" Dennis Pang board. It was the fastest board in the flatwater test in both overall time and individual rank results. Dennis custom made this board and we designed it mainly for downwinders and surf races, with quite a bit of rocker and a relatively wide tail for stability. The entry is not very piercing and a little splashy, so the fast times were somewhat of a surprise. It shows that rocker does not necessarily make a board slow in flatwater and that a clean entry is not all that matters. The wide tail and generous volume also makes this board fairly stable and user friendly, so even the less experienced paddlers got good results.

The unconventional Starboard ACE also has a somewhat splashy entry but generally works well in these kind of conditions. It takes some getting used to, which may have worked against it a little in the results. The Everpaddle 12'6" also has a narrow tail which gives it a clean exit but also makes it less stable. The results show that this board worked better for the experienced racers than for the less experienced ones. Scotty's Hobie boards had a good feel and work great in downwinders according to him. It was no surprise that they, as well as the Bark and Everpaddle boards all had good results in the test. So, what did we learn from this test? I'm still figuring that out but my hope is that these tests will make the next generation of boards even faster, well balanced, and user friendly.

Each tester made some notes on the boards tested after each run and I included the comments with each board. They are from seven individuals, so some may seem contradictory at times. I hope some of you can add your thoughts by making comments below, feedback is always welcome and encouraged.

Link to results spreadsheet

The test team: Denis, Rob, Alex, Scotty, Anders, Dr. Dan, Lokelani

The seven boards we tested (subjective rider comments as recorded after each run)

12'6" x 27" x 6" Everpaddle custom
weight: 25.75 lbs
rider comments:
smooth, tippy, low rocker
stable but not heavy, glides well, quick on start
comfortable
great upwind, stable and fast
tippy, paddles straight
rolly, a bit heavy

12'6" x 27" x 9" Starboard Ace 2011
weight: 30.5 lbs
rider comments:
Bouncy
tippy, smooth, glide
sluggish feel, noisy, stable
good all around but harder to steer upwind
feels like it pushes a lot of water
buoyant and bouncy
clean water exit off tail

12'6" x 28.75" x 6.6" Hobie Bamboo Elite 2012
28 lbs.
rider comments:
good feel, narrow stance
thick from middle to tail, slower than expected
feels like it drags more than other Hobie
downwind good, upwind more drift
stable, good upwind
like the feel

12'6" x 27.75" x 6.6" Hobie Elite Race 2011
weight: 27 lbs
rider comments:
Like the feel
little tippy, good glide
glides well, stable
downwind good, upwind harder to steer
fast off the line
entry feels good, narrow stance

12'6" x 29" x 6" Blue Planet touring
weight: 33.25 lbs
rider comments:
needs work
heavy, stable, slow start, glides well, tracks well upwind
hard to being up to speed, maintain speed
Heavy, no play in board
heavy, stable

12'6" x 27.75" x 6.25" Dennis Pang custom
weight: 24.5 lbs
rider comments:
fast, good rocker
light, tippy, very fast on start, felt like it pushed water instead of cut & glide
light, easy to bring up to speed
Like it! very stable, tracks & glides well
less tracking, light, fast
tippy, glides well, good upwind
light, splashes a lot

12'6" x 27.75" x 6.25" Bark custom
weight: 25.5 lbs
rider comments:
good glide
light, fast, tippy
upwind hard to control
pretty stable, cut through wind well
faster than I expected
tracks well

Link to results spreadsheet

Many thanks to our volunteer test team:

Anders

Lokelani

Alex

Scotty

Denis

Dr. Dan

The photos below were taken by Alex Nix, who also made my cool new custom made double bend paddle in the pictures.

Here is a short video with headcam footage taken at the test:

Zen Chopsticks By Len Barrow

noreply@blogger.com (Robert Stehlik) — Thu, 03 Nov 2011 17:20:00 +0000

We here at Zen waterman have not done a Zen philosophy oriented article for a while so I thought I would have a go at it. This article has to do with a land-based program yet we will see how the Buddhist ideas inherent in the activity could be applied to our ocean activities

Every year I run a program with a few other teachers at Roosevelt High School (RHS) on Oahu. It’s a really beautiful project. The students learn about compassion and kindness by proactively helping the homeless through the Honolulu Institute for Human Services (IHS). The program is called RHS for IHS. The IHS is the key institution for helping the homeless on Oahu in Hawaii.

My motivation for engaging in this program is not religious. Despite this they come primarily from Zen Buddhist philosophy. As we shall see in the forthcoming story, the core of Mahayana Buddhism (which includes Zen in its scope) is compassion and kindness for others. The motivation to help others is the natural outcome of meditation and paying attention. This sounds weird but we shall explore this phenomena later in this article.

Here is another unusual fact about the Zen practice. According to the great Masters of old; without the motivation of compassion for others (Bodhichitta) focused in your practice, Zen is worse than poisonous garbage. In fact Zen done in self-interest is called “Zen sickness” in which one turns into a “hungry ghost clinging desperately to grasses and reeds” by the old masters. Trust me, you don’t want to be a hungry ghost!

I therefore try my best to steer away from my ego in the water and on land. It is the most difficult thing that I have ever tried to do. Despite this, social projects based on others well-being help me along the rugged Zen road.

As we were developing the program with my fellow teachers a question arose: “ How the hell do we get self-centered, arrogant modern teenagers to engage in compassionate social action?”. It was almost impossible to do it with adults and must surely be harder with teenagers given their egoism and our culture of selfishness.

We came up with a solution. I would give them a little Zen parable (among other things). This story worked extremely well in getting the students to have compassion for others. If a fourteen-year-old high school student can understand this to the point that they take social action, we as adults should be able to comprehend this mythology and take social action also. The “myth” goes something like this:

One day long ago a man was practicing Zen and managed to attain enlightenment. His insight was so great that it allowed him to visit heaven and hell. The man decided that he would visit hell first. As he entered the hell realm he was surprised at what he saw. There was a great rectangular table that was twenty feet long and a number of feet wide. There were ten people seated on one side of the table and ten people seated on the other side of the table. On the table were luxurious foods and the finest beverages that the lands could offer. Saphron and ambrosia scents wafted through the air. Well the monk was quite impressed. He stated “jee wiz, well hell is not that bad after all”. His thoughts were suddenly interrupted when he saw intense anger and frustration on everyone’s contorted faces. He quickly realized that the people were frustrated as they could not eat their food as their chopstiks were over three feet long! They could only look at it and they were extremely hungry, angry and sad. Hence, the hell dwellers spent their days yelling at each other and blaming the person opposite them for their predicament.

The monk asked the folks in Hell “how long have you been here?”. One individual viciously spat back and said, we have been like this for ten Kalpas!……(In Sanskrit: literally 10,000,000,000,000 trillion years!). The monk was aghast! He thought that hell was a really messed up place. The monk wondered what force could curse people to such a grim place? He hastened to get out of hell and go to heaven.

The monk then visited heaven. To his surprise he saw the same exact things that he saw in hell! There was a great rectangular table that was twenty feet long and a number of feet wide. There were also ten people seated on one side of the table and ten people on the other side of the table. To his amazement the people had great expressions of happiness and joy. In fact in their demeanor, the monk noticed a great serenity and calmness. The monk was perplexed as he saw that the occupants of heaven had the same three foot chopsticks!

The monk sat and watched the occupants of Heaven do something miraculous yet so simple. The heaven dwellers would use their huge chopsticks to pick up food from the other side of the table and HELP feed the other out of compassion and kindness. This act was kindly reciprocated by the person on the other side of the table and all were well fed, utterly content and wonderfully happy. The monk attained a deeper enlightenment when he saw this. He thought “To help another through compassion are the keys of enlightenment”. The monk also thought to himself that those in hell are in hell for the sole fact that they don’t help each other.

The monk reflected “how amazing it is that Heaven and Hell are exactly the same place”. He went back to his life with the conviction to be kind and compassionate to all beings with a will to help all. The monk lived happily ever after.

Well what does this have to do with the surf? I have another quick little story showing how you can apply the “Zen Chopsticks” spirit to the surf. I saw two beginners a few months ago floating around at Ala-Moana. Everyone in the surf was talking like “oh great, these people are just going to get in the way”. The locals were getting very frustrated and flustered at the novices. In a way they were creating their own hell by not helping them.

I am lucky because I am a teacher at heart and I asked the surfers if they wanted to catch waves. They heartily agreed and I positioned them to catch a swell. As each beginner caught waves they became very happy. Happiness is contagious. I was laughing my head off as they caught long rides while expressing gigantic smiles on their faces. It brought me back to a time when I was a beginner. This period was marked by pure stoke. I was so happy and conversely they were surf stoked. We have become wonderful friends since.

The point being, by helping others I was creating a heaven out of a hell! Mind you, in Zen, Heaven and Hell are the same place. In this philosophy, it is to the extent that you are compassionate and helpful that shape what world you are in. If you are a jerk to people, welcome to Hell. If you are GENUINELY compassionate and helpful, welcome to heaven. Can you now see that this is so? It is really that simple. If 120 fourteen-year-old students at Roosevelt High School can understand this and take social action with the homeless (they raised over 2,000 dollars and 2 TONS of canned goods), I hope we as mature adults can grasp this wonderful phenomena.

In this world of hyper-capitalism, ultra-violent video games, and pure narcissism, people wonder why they are so miserable despite having the luxuries of modern materialistic life. The answer is elementary. Quite simply they don’t choose to help others. Sometimes I am amazed at the behavior of some Americans (like myself). I am not a saint but it is my professional Anthropological opinion that it is almost ” hip” to not care for others in America. It is cool to flaunt your selfishness. If you don’t believe me “just turn on your t.v.” and flip through the channels. You may also choose to play your child’s video games, where you can literally shoot prostitutes after copulating with them (Grand Theft Auto) and bayonet enemy soldiers in the face (while getting points for it!?). Has not caring become part of our culture?

If it is we are in trouble. In a Zen view, not caring and being selfish will only lead a person to exist in a hell realm as a hungry ghost clings to brushes and weeds. When people don’t care about the environment and trash mother earth we get global warming and the like which is already affecting our happiness. In a way we have all collectively created a type of hell. When people don’t care about the social environment and others well-being you get social abuses like homelessness, war, violence in the ocean, spousal abuse, elderly abuse and child abuse. Again these are types of hells which we have collectively allowed to be created. If you want to understand the universe, just look in the mirror.

A question arises: where do you stand? Are you truly happy or frustrated? If you are not content , maybe moving outside of yourself to help strangers may be a solution to your sadness. It is not that hard to do once you get started.

In short, just spread da Aloha!!!!

Thanks to all the RHS teachers who developed this program. You are all bodhisattvas (Buddhist compassion super- saints) and you don’t even know it! That’s you Mr. Kim da surfa. Cheeeee haaaaa.

Aloha Len Barrow

Occasional Letters: Nov 1, 2011

Bottom configurations by Len Barrow

noreply@blogger.com (Robert Stehlik) — Fri, 14 Oct 2011 05:43:00 +0000

What’s Up With Bottom Configurations?

If you are a beginner surfer or surf SUPer bottom configurations may seem most perplexing. They seem complex yet the basics are quite simple. For our purposes here the bottom refers to the entire bottom plane of the board. If you want to examine what type of bottom you have just flip your board over wax or track, side down. Run you had horizontally from one tip of the rail to the other at the midsection of your board. Does the board express a V shape or does the board express a concave shape? Make a careful mental note of this. Repeat this process every twelve inches as you move to the nose. Go back to the center of your board and do this again except move toward your tail. Presto! You have just mapped out your bottom configuration.

You may find that at some areas of your board are almost flat while other areas are heavily veed. Some of you may surprisingly find two double concaves dug out of this plane in your board. The question arises: what does this all mean to your surfboard or SUP’s performance characteristics? The following article will answer these questions.

V Bottom Configuration

Vees were the first in bottom variation and were innovated by the indigenous Hawaiians. It was often thought that early Americans such as Tom Blake in the 1940’s created the vee configuration but in fact it was the native Hawaiians. There are examples of 150 year old boards with veed bottoms in the Bishop Museum of Hawaii. This is an interesting subject yet it shall be left for another article

How does the vee function? Imagine a see-saw with to children on them. If the lower child applies force via his legs to lift off the ground, this child rapidly and efficiently rises; conversely the higher child quickly drops. With a see-saw force is rapidly shifted in a predictable manner. This see –saw effect is crucial to modern surfing in which requires precise and efficient redirections of energy. This effect allows Kelly Slater to do his rapid direction changes. If you watch professional -surfers closely, they are tipping the board from side to side in a see-saw motion to create momentum and utilizing the vee for quick direction changes. Vee is literally the reason that modern surfboards are able to do what they do today.

To put it simplistically, bottom Vees allow you to tip the board on the rail to “cut” in one direction or another. One may also use the vee to “bottom turn” off your rail to do an off the lip. Vee also functions to tip the board from side to side. Again, this enhances the boards maneuverability and speed by allowing rapid directions changes. Next up are concave bottoms!

Concaves

Bottom Concaves have revolutionized surfboard design. When I was growing up we were restricted to veed bottoms. Concaves suddenly became mainstreamed in the late eighties. When we jumped on concaves we were surprised at how maneuverable and fast they were. We were pretty bummed out that we were missing out on so much fun for so long.

Concaves seem complex but they are actually based on a very simple principle. A concave allows a small air pocket to form under the board. This contributes to the board’s ability to lift out of the water very much like a hydro-plane. A concave theoretically uses the Venturi effect. This phenomena can be roughly explained as follows. When a wide river reaches a narrow bottleneck in its form, the water speeds up. Shapers use this to good effect. Often in modern surfboard design, a wide single broad concave in the nose is channeled into two narrow concaves in the rear third of the board. The water flow is thus speeded up under the board and translated into speed. This can be used to great advantage by the surfer. Most modern concaves today are a variation of this theme. The extreme version of a concave bottom is a “Bonzer”. In this design a deep broad concave is dug in then formed into a narrow channel in the tail of the board in a direct emulation of the Venturi effect.

Lastly, vee can actually be incorporated into concave bottoms. How is this done one may ask? The shaper will initially carve a vee into the bottom of the board. He will then dig two concaves into each side of the stringer keeping the center higher than the rail edge thus retaining the vee despite the concave. This is the standard for high performance boards today. In the end equation, you can create an excellent board with the qualities of both a vee and concave.

Experimental Bottom Designs and SUPs

I hope the SUP surfing community starts to experiment more with bottoms configurations. So far I have seen only single to double concaves, vees and nose concaves. As creativity is part of our sport, it would be wonderful to see SUP shapers experiment. I have yet to see an extreme Bonzer-bottom on a SUP surfboard. That would be really cool and probably very functional. Another unorthodox bottom that I hope that shapers experiment with is the reverse vee. Tom Curran did his best surfing on this bizarre design. The Reverse Vee was innovated by the French shaper Maurice Cole. The vee which is usually in the tail is completely reversed and moved to the front 2/3 of the board. The tail is completely flat, with no vee. This configuration seems totally illogical but they are amazingly manouverable.

The world is the SUPers oyster. These alternative bottom configurations have never been (to my knowledge) applied to a SUP surfer. We know how they work on surfboard but the SUP has the extra element of the paddle which allows the surfers to modify the performance envelope of the design. When the paddle is added into the performance equation these experimental bottom types may blossom, in fact I am sure they will. So, until next time, keep your minds open and I hope to see some weird boards out there!

Aloha Len Barrow

Meet Gino Bell from the Westside by Len Barrow

noreply@blogger.com (Robert Stehlik) — Wed, 07 Sep 2011 07:48:00 +0000

Gino Bell is a top longboarder and former US Championship finalist from the Nanakuli on the Westside of Oahu. He is basically a full blooded Hawaiian whose ancestors have lived in the area for hundreds of years or more. Gino is known for his uncanny ability to observe the waves and make the best of of any conditions from two to twenty feet. He is a true waterman.

Gino Bell is also a great Hawaiian ambassador to the sport of surfing and I feel it an honor to write about him because it gives me a chance to diffuse the stereo-type of the Hawaiian surfer. If you are not from Hawaii you may have a distorted picture of Hawaiians involved in Watersports. This may come from various media sources including some surfing periodicals and movies. The movie Blue Crush depicted Hawaiians as greedy, sexist and violent surfers (If you don’t believe me watch the movie again). The movie North shore did more of the same. Various surfing magazines have always focused on the Hawaiians who were aggressive and violent as drama and colorful characters sell more magazines. They don’t bother to tell you that these people are a tiny minority of the population.

Hawaiians who are great watermen- ambassadors like Duane Desoto (World Champ from the Westside) and Bonga Perkins (3x World Champ) get minimal press-time. I was surprised to find that when Duane won his world title he got a little corner article in the sports section of our Honolulu newspaper. The surfing magazines also barely mentioned it. This is really unfortunate and this type of coverage does not convey the truth of the matter.

Zen has always had at its foundation the “effort” to uncover the truth behind perceptions. That’s why this interview with Gino is most relevant to this blog. Gino is a real old school Hawaiian. I first met him it at Nanakuli Tracks (a surf point) about 15 years ago. I saw this Hawaiian guy just ripping it on his longboard and I must admit I was a little intimidated. He was “talking story” with everyone and I noticed that he was making sure that everyone was getting waves (when was the last time that you have seen that, if ever?). When a set came he generously yelled “Go bradda Go!” to me! Gino then introduced himself to myself and we have been good friends ever since.

Gino Bell is humble, helpful and full of Aloha. Most importantly, he is like most of the Hawaiians I know. He is not the falsified “media version” Hawaiian. If you are not from Hawaii and have never met a Hawaiian, I hope this interview will shed some light on who the Hawaiians are today. Secondly pay close notice to what he says about paying attention to waves, sharing waves and Aloha. I think you will be pleasantly surprised.

Until Next time!

Len Barrow

We hope you enjoy the Zen Waterman video interview with Gino Bell:

How to strap a board to your roof rack in 30 seconds

noreply@blogger.com (Robert Stehlik) — Sat, 03 Sep 2011 07:33:00 +0000

I recently watched someone take 10 minutes to strap their board to their car while I was waiting for their parking spot. He was going back and forth several times for each strap, looping it around the ends of the racks on both sides, and tying the straps off endlessly. In the end the board was not even tight on the racks and the board could still slide all over because he tied it around the end of the rack, not snug next to the board and could not really tighten it well because of all the loops he made around the rack. So, here is a video of a fast way to strap a board to a car easily, quickly and safely.

This is the full version, if you want the quick version, watch the "ADD" version below.

Windsurfing Dream- video by Bob Bohn

noreply@blogger.com (Robert Stehlik) — Mon, 29 Aug 2011 08:48:00 +0000

My friend and Blue Planet team rider Bob Bohn made this windsurfing video with some very creative camera angles and custom gopro mounts, cool stuff, thanks Bob!

Stoke technique video analysis from SUP racing workshop

noreply@blogger.com (Robert Stehlik) — Mon, 22 Aug 2011 09:12:00 +0000

This is a 18 minute video from our North Shore SUP racing workshop held this morning, Aug. 21st.
We had 8 participants and two coaches: Dennis Pang and myself.
If a picture says a thousand words, video says even more and seeing yourself paddle is very helpful, so I focused on getting everyone's stoke on video both from land and from a wide angle camera mounted on the front of the board. The video is intended mostly for the 8 participants to understand their stroke better and find small things they can work on. I think anyone trying to make their stoke more efficient, fast, and powerful can benefit from watching this.
Refining your stoke is not something that happens overnight, you need to put in the time and practice and the more you do it, the more efficient your stoke will become.
There is no right or wrong way to paddle but one thing that all good paddlers seem to have in common is good reach and catch.
Thanks to all the participants, I hope you had a good time and enjoy the video, please leave a comment!

Video stroke analysis at the Blue Planet SUP race workshop on Aug. 21st, 2011.

If you are confused by the terms used in the voiceover, please read the technique posts here- parts 2,3,4.
In retrospect, I should have added some video of a pro paddler with good technique.

In the photo below, Danny Ching shows excellent form during the power phase: shoulders stacked, paddle vertical, arms straight, transferring the power from the core and back directly to the paddle.

photo: Chris Silvester

Aloha,
Robert Stehlik

Fin Configurations with Len Barrow

noreply@blogger.com (Robert Stehlik) — Sat, 13 Aug 2011 19:32:00 +0000

Len Barrow shows and talks about different surfing fin configurations: single fin, twin fin, quad, and thruster setups.

What’s Up with Fin Configurations?

Understanding Surfing and SUP fin configurations can be a daunting task. Everyone seems to be an expert and has a theory that they believe is infallible. The following article will sort out all the fin configurations and give you a basic yet delicate view of the pros and cons of various fin set ups. When reading this article it is important to understand that these ideas are only broad generalizations designed to give the reader a more open view of how fin set-ups can work. This article is not meant to be a definitive guide to fin configuration. It would take an encyclopedia to explain how fin set -up, rocker, tail block design, hip, etc. interact together. Yet to have a good general understanding of configuration will maximize the enjoyment of your surfing or SUPing experience.

The Single Fin

The single fin can have the reputation for being obsolete in some circles. I am especially surprised that SUP surfers rarely experiment with the single fin. I believe the single fin is a gem and greatly under-utilized. As the first modern fin setup, the single fin was designed as a keel to keep the boards tails from “sliding ass” in 60’s surf lingo. The fin simply holds the tail in the water and allows the board to be trimmed at an angle in the wave, either left or right. The early single fins were huge and very deep in length. They look obsolete but let us remember that the single fin opened up breaks like Pipeline and Waimea bay to surfing possibilities. As surfing evolved into the 70’s the single fin became shorter, narrower and more raked (refer to previous article on fins).

The modern single fin is great fun and I hope people experiment with them more in the SUP surfing community. My impression of the modern single fin is that it is fast. There is less fin area than that of a Quad, Tri-fin and even a Twin. When I first came off my three-fin to surf a single fin some time ago, I was a bit nervous. When I rode the single I was quite surprised. It was as if my tri-fin was like a bicycle with training wheels (the tri-fins outer fins being the training wheels). When I rode the single fin it was like I shed my side baby-training wheels. I was going faster, pivoting sharply, and generally having a great time. Yet on the flip side, like riding a two wheeled bike, it took some time to get used to.

Nose riding was a breeze as single fins are designed with greater height and therefore hold the tail down more efficiently when you stand on the nose. To this day single fins are still the state of the art for nose riding. Yet depending who you ask singles can be criticized for being a bit “tight” and the turning arc of a single fin is very unusual as it can be very sharp due to the lack of side fins of a thruster. The definite advantage of a single fin is that it rarely spins out and holds quite well in the barrel. Also when you set a line on the wave from point A to point B, a single will take you there. They are very “drivey” and hold a line even in barrelling waves. If you don’t believe this, take a look what Gerry Lopez was doing at Pipe in the 1970’s. Another great example of what a single can do is Shaun Thompson’s performance at Off the Wall in 1976. He was actually pumping and weaving in the barrel on a single. Only a handful of guys can do that today on their tri-fins! Open your mind and try a single, especially if you are a SUP surfer (as I rarely see this set up on a SUP). You might find yourself pleasantly surprised.

The Twin Fin

The twin fin is the next step in the evolution of fin set up and surfboard design. Mr Steve Liz is often credited for the earliest twin fin but many shapers including Ben Aipa played a dominant role in the development of the “Twinney”.

The twin fin essentially ”loosened” up the single fin. Instead of having a center fin it was deleted and replaced with two shorter side fins, which were set higher on the tail block. This had the effect of drastically changing the performance character of the surfboard. Twins had and have a lively “get up and go” character to them. They are very loose and can have a much tighter pivoting arc as compared to the single fin. The twin feeling is indeed unique and hard to describe. They feel slick and lively and are indeed quick.

The twin fin has a downside. When the waves get big and hollow the twin lacks the drive and hold of a single fin or tri-fin. They tend to slide out in the barrel and may lose traction in big waves when you bottom turn. Despite all of the above, technique can overcome all of the twin’s shortcoming and maximize all of its positive attributes. Mark Richards did gouging cutbacks and vertical off the lips at ten foot (twenty foot faces) Sunset beach on a twinney! If you have never surfed a twin set up you should definitely try it. It can turn a board that feels like a dog into a lively gem. My great buddy and longtime friend Tommy Chun Min (the hardest “core” surfer I have ever met!), Hawaii’s SUP surfing state champ, surfs twins exclusively and maximizes the flow, looseness and quickness this design is capable of. Again I see the twin as under-utilized by the SUP community and I do hope that people will experiment with it more.

The Tri-Fin

History: In 1980, a man called Simon Anderson changed the surfing world. He was a muscular and tall Australian. Mr. Anderson found that twins fins were limited in their performance envelope. He would often overpower his twin fin in cutbacks and larger waves. As Mr. Anderson was a shaper he came to a wonderful solution. He kept the twin fin placement yet added a third fin in the rear. Voila….the Thruster or tri fin was born. If he had taken out a patent on this design he would be a millionaire or more as everyone rides tri-fins today. They work well on shortboards, longboards and SUP surfing boards.

Character performance pros: There is a reason why Simon Anderson named his new creation a Thruster. The fin configuration had the looseness and maneuverability of a twin yet held the characteristics of a single. The Tri fin could hold a line deep in the barrel and would rarely slide out in critical off the lips. The tri fin had an “x-factor” to its performance that is hard to describe in writing. Loose, yet directional, the tri fin is still the state of the art thirty years later.

Surfing performance took quantum leaps after Mr. Anderson created the tri fin. Many people criticized him, including the famous California shaper Al Merrick. Mr. Merrick famously stated that: “you can’t make a board better by putting more fins on it”. Simon Anderson quickly proved the tri-fins worth in a rapid array of stunning victories on the world tour. One victory was at heavy Bells Beach. The other victory was at Pipeline in the same year! Within six months of this everyone converted to the thruster. It remains this way to the present day. If you have never tried a thruster, even on your Sup, you should set one up today.

The Quad

History: The Quad fin was a further evolution developed out of the tri-fin. Some surfers felt that the tri- fin was too tight and the still preferred the ultra- looseness of the twin fin. The question being asked was; “how could you keep the maneuverability of the twin fin but add a little bit of drive (directionality) to it”. Al Merrick and Ben Aipa among others developed a solution. They took the twin fin and added two smaller fins in back of them. The quad was developed!

Quads are amazing fins. One word to describe a quad is that they are fast. The extra two back fins allow you to pump the board down the line. This characteristic gives them tremendous speed. These boards are almost too fast. Quads also draw a different pivot arc in the critical section. With a thruster you are limited to a fairly tight arc in the critical section as the rear fin holds you in place. The quad allows you to “blow tail”. This means that a quad can maintain a critical arc but also allows a bit of flare in the lip. If a surfer or Sup rider is skilled enough, a four fin can be thrown in to an off the lip and the tail released in a “power slide” that is beautiful to watch. Just watch Kelly Slater’s amazing victory at the 2011 US open. This was all done on a quad. If you have not ridden a quad you should try one. It will definitely liven up your surfing.

It is most important to try every type of fin configuration. Never narrow your mind to ride only one design. Pay attention to what you ride. Quietly feel out every fin configuration while you surf. If you simply allow yourself to focus on the fins-set ups characteristics you will definitely be engaged in a type of meditation. It is a wonderful thing to do.

To myself, surfing is like a long road with many adventures. If you open yourself to the many possibilities that surfing allows, your mind will become more focused. This is one of the great features of our sport whether it be SUP or Surfing. Having the ability to become more focused will definitely enhance your happiness and enjoyment of life. Should I ride a single, twin, tri fin or quad? Ride them all!

The 2011 Molokai race video and interviews by Robert Stehlik

noreply@blogger.com (Robert Stehlik) — Thu, 04 Aug 2011 06:28:00 +0000

I put together this 15 minute video about my experience and a recap of the 2011 Molokai to Oahu Paddleboard race.
There are some short excerpts of the three interviews I taped the evening before the race, to watch the full interviews, click on the links. Featuring: Brian Szymanski, Jeff Denholm, and Gerry Lopez.

Robert Stehlik reporting live from the Molokai to Oahu race 2011.

I had the chance to catch up with the man behind the super fast Starboards race SUP's, Brian Szymanski on the evening before the Molokai to Oahu race on July 30, 2011. He talks about his shapes, downwind racing, and the Molokai race- good stuff!

Jeff Denholm is an inspiration, doing the Molokai race solo for the third time with a prosthetic arm paddle- very impressive, thanks Jeff!

Click this link for the Gerry Lopez interview post

Link to the complete Molokai race results

Gerry Lopez interview

noreply@blogger.com (Robert Stehlik) — Wed, 03 Aug 2011 19:43:00 +0000

Gerry Lopez needs no introduction. If anyone can be called "Zen Waterman", it's him. We are just humble students of the master. I was lucky enough to spend some time with Gerry on the evening before the Molokai to Oahu race.
In this interview , Gerry talks about Standup paddling, shaping, the molokai race, yoga, focus, a bad wipeout at Pipeline with out of body experience and the benefits of getting into the ocean. This is great stuff, enjoy.

Here is a link to pictures of Gerry's mixed team: Gerry Lopez, Edmund Pestana and Heather Jeppsen crossing the channel the day after this interview

I was lucky enough to have a great conversation with Gerry Lopez the night before the Molokai race. Gerry is a true Zen Waterman and shares some words of wisdom. I know it's long but it really is great stuff, so take the time to listen and let it all sink in.

Click here for a Molokai race recap video and more interviews

If you are interested in reading more about Gerry's interest in Yoga, read: Yoga or something like it by Gerry Lopez

MUCH ADO ABOUT FINS by Len Barrow

noreply@blogger.com (Robert Stehlik) — Sat, 30 Jul 2011 16:39:00 +0000

Ben Aipa with his "da hook" fin design, click for more info

If you are like most surfers and SUPers you have probably spent a lot of your time looking at your fins. It has been said that fins are inch for inch the most critical performance feature on your board. Fins have always interested me and after thirty years of surfing I still have not totally figured them out. Fins may seem perplexing, yet when it comes to surfboard fins, the basics are quite simple.

The Basics- Rake, Height and Base Length

Base Length

The base of the fin is simply what it implies. That is, the distance from the tip of the front of the fin-base to the tip of the back of the fin-base. For the basis of this article we shall simplify things. As a good rule of thumb the wider base will usually create a looser feel to the board while a narrow base will sometimes be create a tighter, stable board. As an example of this, a Liz Twin Fin (a type of loose board small wave board) will have an extremely wide base length to heighten its pivoting and maneuverability characteristics. On the other hand a traditional California Noserider will have a narrower based fin which will help stabilize and stiffen the board during critical noserides.

Fin Rake and Height

Fin rake is the distance from the tip of the rear base to the tip of the extreme top end of the fin measured at a 90 degree right angle. This sounds complex but it is easy to measure. To find your rake, take a ruler to the tip of the top of your fin (the closet point possible to the tail). At a right angle to the fin base follow the ruler down to the bottom of the board. Mark this point with an x with an erasable pen. Measure the distance from the bottom rear tip of your fin to this point. It is usually just a few inches yet this design feature has large ramifications in the performance of your board. A fin which has a longer rake is more “swept”. These fins are great for larger, hollow waves as their swept aspect holds the tail in the wave in critical sections. Swept fins with high rake are used also on noseriders as this type of tail is less likely to spin out in high and critical noserides. Despite this, swept fins can make a board to tight and sluggish in small mushy waves. For these types of waves a less swept or more “upright” fin with a wider base is more feasible. They help you pivot in tighter arcs and have more release (the ability to quickly re-set the trajectory of your board).

Fin height is also very important. Obviously a 9 inch high fin will sit deeper in the water and have more holding power. The deeper fin has less chance of spinning out in bowling sections as it holds the tail of the board down. The disadvantage to this is you will have a little more drag and fin to deal with. This is great if you want to noseride but if you are a hot-dogger a high fin may hamper your style. On the other hand a fin with lower height (4.5 + inches) may be looser. Many small wave short boards have smaller up right fins to maximize their maneuverability and shorten their turning arc. Shorter fins may also have more release than deep higher fins. Despite this when the waves get big and hollow a shorter fin may “pop” out of the water and cease to hold your tail in the water. This is called a spin out

Avoid Dogmatism

The above rules are only very broad generalizations. Many surfers have their theories which they will die by. Keep in mind that creativity is part of the fun of our sport. Anything may work therefore don’t be narrow minded. Mark Richards rode virtually horizontal twin fins at Hawaiian 10’ foot sunset and won numerous times. They were not supposed to work but he made them work. Kelly Slater gets away with riding small wave fins at gigantic Margret River Australia. It is truly amazing at how fin performance stereotypes can be completely incorrect.

I have ridden the stupidest looking fins and they worked wonderfully for reasons that I cannot really fathom. My favorite fins are what you call runners. Ben Aipa gave me a pair to try. They were literally 1 inch high and have an extremely long base length and no rake whatsoever. People laughed at me at the beach when they saw the fins. For some reason they worked admirably. I have also used curved fins extensively. If you look at the fin” head on” they are actually curved inward in a semicircle. Again, they were one of the best set of fins that I ever had.

In the end, fins are a-lot of fun and an integral part to our sport whether it be surf SUPing or surfing itself. It is important to keep fooling around with fins to find a system that suits your surfing. My next article, which will be out in about a week on this post, will deal with fin configurations. Do you ride a quad, tri-fin, single or a twin? You could write a whole book on this yet the basics are fairly simple. Until then, have fun with your fins!

Len Barrow, July 2011.

Flatwater speed test- unlimited SUP's

noreply@blogger.com (Robert Stehlik) — Sun, 24 Jul 2011 08:06:00 +0000

Last week Evan Leong and I had a chance to test Mark Raaphorst's S-16 Standamaran prototype that he was shipping to New York for a race with a stopover on Oahu. I have been wanting to organize a speed test for SUP race boards for a while, so this was a good opportunity to comparison test unlimited boards in flatwater conditions. Please check the spreadsheet for detailed results and watch the video for more information on the test. Next up will be speed tests for 14' race boards and 12'6" race boards. For manufacturers, please contact me if you have a board you would want to have included in future tests.

The S-16 standamaran came in a big wooden crate.

It looks like something Batman would paddle if he was into SUP, although his would probably be all black.

Flatwater speed comparison test of these 6 unlimited SUP race boards:

Listed in order from fastest to slowest in test results:

18' x 25" Ohana
17'6" x 25 1/8" Dennis Pang
16' x 28.5" Standamaran SIC S-16
17'4" x 26 1/2" SIC Bullet
18' x 26" Bark
17' x 26 3/4" Naish Glide

distance .21 miles,

Est. wind speed= 5 to 15 knots

test pilots:

Jared Vargas

Anders Jonsson

Robert Stehlik

For the spreadsheet with test results, click on this link:

Spreadsheet with test times and results

Please watch the video with voiceover for more information on the test

Notes:

I realize more runs are needed to get meaningful data. We will also try to include more data, like board weight, price (I like the idea of speed per $), board photos from different perspectives (outline, rockerline) in future tests. We originally planned to do two rounds of testing but ran out of steam after doing 12 sprints, so it will help to have more paddlers next time.

Run 1 times were with the wind and Run 2 times are going back upwind, so that's why Run 2 times are slower.

Regarding which boards we are used to, these boards are usually used/ owned by:
Jared: Ohana
Anders: Bark
Robert: Pang

Here are some of my thoughts:
I expected the standamaran to do well upwind with the smooth entry but in the test it did not compare well in the upwind legs. Why? I'm not sure but my theory is that the wakes coming from both tips and intersecting at the center of the board create a wave that adds drag at higher speeds and limits the top speed. Going into the wind the small chops might exaggerate this effect. I'm not sure though, just a theory.
At normal speeds (not sprinting) the standamaran seems to have very low friction and it takes very little to maintain a speed of around 5 mph.

All the boards have pros and cons and which board will be fastest depends on the paddler and the conditions. So why were some boards faster than others? There are so many variables and to try narrow it down to just the width is just not realistic even if the numbers seem to indicate that. I have tested two 12'6 prototypes with identical length and width with the main difference being the rocker and entry and the board with more rocker was actually faster and had a cleaner entry. Regarding length, I know that most 14' boards are significantly faster than most 12'6 boards and that most unlimited boards are faster than 14' boards but at some point (over 16' it seems to me) adding more length does not always translate into more speed.
Shaping a fast race board is more art than science, I think.
Paddler weight is important too, as the same board will have a different entry and exit depending on the weight of the rider, so the rocker line and volume have to match the rider weight

I also want to stress that this was a flatwater test that only compares speed in very limited conditions. In open ocean races many other factors come in, including stability and I just want to point out that the 17' Naish board, which came in slowest in our test has a great track record with many wins in downwind races.

Blue Planet SUP clinic July 3rd video by Fabrice Beaux and pictures by Roy Tate

noreply@blogger.com (Robert Stehlik) — Wed, 13 Jul 2011 22:15:00 +0000

Fabrice Beaux filmed and edited this video of our free monthly SUP clinic and board demo on the fourth of July weekend. With new, creative film angles and cool editing, a fun day and cool video!

Here is a slideshow of pictures taken by Roy Tate of T4 Digital Concepts

Many thanks to all the helpers and participants!

Click here for information on upcoming free SUP clinics

Downwind Coaching video by Robert Stehlik

noreply@blogger.com (Robert Stehlik) — Fri, 08 Jul 2011 08:27:00 +0000

I shot this video with a headmount gopro cam this morning on a downwind coaching run from Hawaii Kai to Kahala with two students, Sean and Dalbert. I did a voiceover and think this is a helpful video to watch for anyone new to downwind standup paddling.

This is a downwind coaching session with voiceover. A grey, overcast morning on July 7th, 2011. For more information on downwind lessons, please visit www.getupstanduphawaii.com

The Tale of the Tail, by Len Barrow

noreply@blogger.com (Robert Stehlik) — Fri, 01 Jul 2011 19:58:00 +0000

Have you ever wondered about how your surfboard or SUP works? The terminology requires a minor encyclopedia and each design element interacts with another element. It can be an incredibly complex issue but if you understand a few basics you should be able to figure out what’s going on. All in all, part of the fun of surfing and SUP is paying attention to your equipment. In this manner, it is truly is akin to a type of meditation.

For the purpose of this article we shall start with the tail or “tailblock”. The tailblock is the portion of the approximately two feet from the tip of the tail. It is an extremely important design element. Much of your pivoting while surfing is done on the tail therefore its “design lines”, volume, and rocker (bottom curve) is crucial. I know this is a mouthful but don’t worry. I will break down each topic point by point.

Tail Design Lines

The Square or Squash tail

Basically there exist three basic outlines of tail and many variations in-between. The first is a square or squash tail. As the name implies, the tail is squarish. A square tail can have rounded off edges or hard boxy angles. These types of tails are used for smaller waves and even slower waves. They are excellent as the square shape retains a wider outline as compared to other tails. A wider tail quite simply has more foam in the tail blocks volume. This equates to flotation and lift which are your absolute allies if the waves are small and slow. If the waves are barreling and huge like Pipeline, excess flotation and lift are actually your enemy as the tail wants to “lift” itself out off the water due to the power and curve of the wave. This is called spinning out. The actual “over-lifting” of the tail causes the fins to disengage from the water and one’s board control is lost. On the other hand, if you are on a small slow wave like Daimond Head or Sanonofre, lift is your ally. When the wave is slow the wider outline of the square or squash tail with its additional foam allows you to keep the boards speed. This translates into velocity that can be used in off the lips, cutbacks and zig zagging (weaving) across flat sections.

The Round tail or Pin Tail

The round tail is as the names implies, a tail that has its end rounded off. This tail can be curvy and look like the end of your thumb. A pin tail is similar yet has different angles. In a pin tail, the lines of the tailblock will usually be be straighter and end in a single defined point.

The round or pin tail have advantageous and disadvantages depending on the type of surf that you wish to ride. This is due to the fact that outline of a round or pin tail has less area than a squash hence less foam. This equates into a tail that settles down into the water more. This extra hold can manifest in two ways. If you are surfing slow rolling waves, the round and especially the pin tail tends to settle in the wave too much and you slow down due to increased friction. Remember that there is usually less surface area in the pin or round tail in the tail block hence less flotation. On the other hand if you are surfing a wave like Pipeline or Jocko’s, you want the tail to settle into the water. If you have a wide squash tail in these waves the excess surface area and foam would lift your fins out of the water and you would lose control (spin out). A pin however anchors your bottom turn, engaging the fins. This then translates in to drive or velocity which can allow you to do big off the lips and other gouges. Pin tails can have a great amount of what surfers call “drive” . Drive can be translated into “force direction” in surfer lingo. Quite literally a “drivey” board responds to the amount of force you put in and goes exactly where you want to go.

The Middle Path: The Swallow

What if you want the best of both worlds? You want the Zip of a squash for the small stuff but the drive of a Pin for the more powerful waves. If you don’t have enough money to buy five boards, each for a specific condition, what do you do?

Ben Aipa figured this out in the mid 70’s along with a few other shapers. God bless them for their solution. Imagine taking a square tail. In your mind place a small triangle in the dead center of the square tail with the point facing the nose. Cut out that triangular piece of foam and you get a swallow tail. What is so ingenious about this you may ask? Firstly you have the surface area of a squash tail which allows your board to be maneuverable in small mushy waves. Secondly you have just created two pin tails. A swallow tail is literally two pin tails! When you put the board on the rail, as in a bottom turn you engage one pin (let us say the right pin). Remember the pin settles into the water and creates drive. Then you come rocketing off the top and tip the board on to the other pin (now the left pin). As there is less foam in a pin, the tail holds in the critical section for your off the lip. If the wave slows down your tail block still has enough surface area to fly across the flat sections. This is my opinion but the swallow manages to engage in all types of surf.

I am always amazed at the capabilities of a swallow tail. I have seen Ben Aipa taking off on 12 foot (24 foot faces) Laniakea on a swallow and absolutely destroying the waves. On the other hand, I won the US Championships in 1 foot Huntington mush on a swallow tail.

It is important to understand that the above are just rough generalizations. I have not even taken into account rocker, board length, hips or templates. Yet this is what makes surfing or SUP surfing great fun. There is an infinite variety of equipment types to ride and you cannot possibly ride all the variations in a lifetime. Better yet, equipment forces you to pay attention and in this manner it is a type of meditation. Let me leave you with this question. What kind of tail do you prefer and why?

Ride Everything by Len Barrow

noreply@blogger.com (Robert Stehlik) — Tue, 14 Jun 2011 17:06:00 +0000

I have had the wonderful opportunity to ride every type of surf craft in my 41 years on this planet. I regard myself a lucky man. I learned something new on each design of surfboard both technique wise and culturally. All of these boards contributed to my happiness as a surfer today and I thought that writing about my experiences with them could be both fun and illuminating.

The Knee-Board

Most people don’t even know that these things exist. The knee boarder is a dying race. The individuals who still knee board on Oahu full time can be counted on one hand. They are a breed apart. Knee boarders strike me as pure surfers committed to pure surfing…..getting barelled. I should know, I was one.

Being a knee boarder (like a body board) can be kind of hard socially. As you don’t stand some surfers regard you as a lesser being. I have been called a “half man” or “the man that took a main round to the stomach”. People will often drop in on us and my friends still give me grief when I pull the old kneeboard out.

Despite this knee boarding taught me a lot about surfing. As you are kneeling, your face is almost touching the wave. It is a very intimate type of surfing to do. You are so close to the wave that you really feel it’s every movement. The bonus to being both low is that you can get insane barrels on almost any bowling wave. Turns on a kneeboard are a blast also. You learn how to use your arms as a pivot point (fulcrum) and as you swoop around, your face is literally inches from the wave, just like a bird. Great Fun!

The Body-Board

The humble body board is a gem. Socially, body boarders get the most flack. They have wrongly been called Spongers, Speed Bumps, Dick Draggers, Cripples, Launch Pads and other derogatory names that I will not mention here. There is even a sticker that says “Friends don’t let Friends Body board”. To me, this is all wrong! My fondest memories were on a body board. In fact my surfing addiction started on a body board. I was a child on the island of Kauai and my brother and I shared a body board at a beach break. I will always remember my first wave. I kicked in and the wave lifted me and sped myself strait toward the beach. At first I was in shock. This turned to awe, then elation and I laughed my head off all the way to the sand. I remember thinking “I like this…I wanna do this forever”. My normal life was all over, due to a bodyboard. Sorry Mother, you should have not purchased that first bodyboard for us (my brother is a surf addict also)..haha.

If you think body boarders are kooks, you should see what they are doing at Pipeline. Body boarders routinely take off deeper than any surfer, and do aerial maneuvers that short boarders are only dreaming off. The body boarder can pull of full 720 degree (two rotation aerials) in the sky. Think about that if you believe you kill it!

The Short Board

Yes, we now come to the ultra-hip short board. “Only real surfers ride shortboads was my mantra”. I was a shortboarder for 17 years and I still bust out the 5’11 occasionally when the kids get a little uppity. I did the whole short board competition thing and had the attitude of an 18 year old ripper (at least I thought I was one in my head). But how fun it was.

I may be biased but you can’t call yourself core unless you were a short-board shredder in the eighties (just kidding). We thought we were soo cool. I went to Roosevelt High school in Hawaii. We would show up to school in ultra-tight girls cut board shorts which revealed certain anatomical features of the male. Why girls cut board short you may ask? They were the men’s style of the time! We would also wear Pink Quicksilver jackets on top of these tight shorts. To top off the ensemble, checkerboard vans would be added with a Flock of Seagull Haircut. We were walking peacocks and the girls loved it! Bring back the Eighties!

The short board is tremendously fun and difficult. People have it easy today as they start on longboards or even SUPs. I had to start on a 5’11 and it took me a full month to stand up.

I am very happy to have what surfers call a short board background. The short board teaches a surfer many things. Balance is one of them. As this type of board is both narrow and short it is inherently unstable. Yet with practice this instability turns in to maneuverability. Short boards are amazingly fun. Your turning arc can be one quarter the length of longboard and you can fit into the critical section of the wave routinely.

I suppose that the most important thing that I learned from the short board was pocket surfing. With this type of board you must surf close to the curl, otherwise known as the pocket. If you get too far out on the shoulder the board loses momentum and you may fade out of the wave. If I did not have this short board background, I can almost guarantee that I would not have achieved a US championship on a longboard.

The Longboard

The Longboard is all about fun. There has been traditionally a little friction between longboards and short boarders as the Long boarders can sit outside of the short boarders and get a lot of waves. As an 18 year old short boarder, I used to hate long boarders for this behavior. I made a promise to myself never to ride a longboard. If I could look in to the future at the time and see that I would transform into a long boarder I would have probably shot myself! Despite this the longboard taught me a lot of things in regards to surfing.

Duane Desoto (current ASP Longboard World Champion) once told me that longboards were easy to learn on but very hard to get good at. This is so true. A longboard has nine foot of rail compared to the five or six foot of rail of a short board. There is much more “board” to be dealt with. This is actually a double edged sword. The extra board allows you get into waves easily but makes it a lot tougher to fit into places were a short board would easily go. So when you complete an off the lip in the critical section smoothly you become ultra-stoked as many factors must coalesce perfectly. In other words it takes a lot of attention to surf a longboard well. What I learned on a longboard was the critical nature of timing. With a short board your timing can be a little bit off and you can get away with it. On a longboard if you go into an off the lip to early you fade out of the wave. If you go too late, the lip swats you like a fly.

As you see there exists a whole universe of surfing equipment to utilize. I believe that this endless variety adds to the surfing experience. Every single piece of equipment forces you to pay attention. Because you are forced to pay attention, each board type is like a Zen Meditation. Also, by riding different equipment, you develop respect for others in the surf despite what they ride. Riding all types of equipment creates a win-win situation. The world is your oyster! Ride Everything.

Coming up: Lens comical stand up surfing learning experience. Yes, I am trying stand up surfing also!

SUP clinic at Ala Moana on June 5th 2011- by Fabrice Beaux

noreply@blogger.com (Robert Stehlik) — Tue, 14 Jun 2011 07:14:00 +0000

We celebrated the one year anniversary of our Ward shop with a SUP clinic in the morning and a video night at our shop in the evening. Fabrice Beaux documented it all in this video. Thank you for participating.

Fine Tuning the Rudder by Robert Stehlik

noreply@blogger.com (Robert Stehlik) — Sat, 11 Jun 2011 08:28:00 +0000

I like racing on unlimited boards with rudders. The rudder makes these long, straight tracking boards surprisingly nimble and fun in the bumps. I avoid using the rudder when trying to catch a bump as it creates extra drag. Once planing on the bump though, using the rudder can help to follow the bumps or change direction without noticeably slowing the glide. You can step back with one foot to lift the nose of the board while keeping the front foot on the rudder. On steeper bumps you want to step further back with both feet off the rudder to reduce the wetted surface and allow higher speeds. With both feet off the rudder, you can surf the bump off the tail by using the rails like when surfing. When the front foot is off the rudder, it goes to "neutral", the straight position that the rudder is supposed to return to when the pedal is released. To minimize drag from steering, the rudder should be in "neutral" most of the time with most steering being small adjustments from the straight position. Doing a downwinder on an unlimited board with the rudder not straight in neutral is awful, it's like trying to play nice music on a guitar that's out of tune. I'm surprised how many people suffer through downwind runs on boards that cost thousands of dollars with their rudder systems completely out of tune, or worse, dropping out of a race because their screws got loose ;) (I won't mention any names here).
If you live on Oahu and would like to have your rudder system tuned professionally, bring it to Blue Planet Surf Shop, for everyone else here is a do it yourself guide to fine tuning your rudder system. The pictures are of a SIC Bullet that my friend Evan Leong (standuppaddlesurf.net) is kindly letting me use in a race tomorrow. The basic concept can be used on any board, all rudder systems allow for a way to adjust and fix the neutral position.

Guide to tuning the rudder system

The SIC ASS system (Advanced Steering System) is notorious for the adjustment screws getting loose and out of tune. I don't like to tune the rudder on a regular basis, so I put some loctite (red) on the screws before making the adjustments for a semi-permanent fixed setting that should not get loose or need any more adjustments for at least a season or longer. While you are at it, also put loctite on the screw in the center that holds down the pedal, I have heard of those coming loose as well.

Cable tension
The cables should be snug but not overtightened.

This picture shows about the correct amount of tension, you should be able to pull the cables together an inch or so, if you can pull more, the cable tension is too loose, which makes the steering sloppy. Tighter cables will make the system more responsive but if they are too tight the tension can put too much strain on the system. You want to avoid having loose parts or play in the system.

Lining up the Rudder

A friend asked me how I can tell if the rudder is really straight. It takes a good eye to line up the curved sides of the rudder with the curved bottom of the board. You can line up the tail or nose of the board with the rudder and see if it slants to one side or the other. If you don't have that eagle eye, it helps to have a center line reference to line up the back tip of the rudder with.

Because this board does not have a visible centerline, I used a floodlight and lined up the board so the shadow of the fin made a centerline on the board.

I then centered the back tip of the rudder in the shadow, playing around with the tension until I have a good amount of tension with the rudder perfectly straight in neutral. Wiggle the rudder back and forth and make sure it keeps returning to neutral. If it gets stuck in different settings you should check if all parts move smoothly without getting stuck and/or create more tension pulling the rudder into the neutral position. The SIC system uses a fiberglass batten, other systems use rubber bands that may need to be tightened or replaced to pull the rudder into the neutral position.

Let the Loctite cure overnight, then get on the water and most importantly, have FUN.

When Less is More by Len Barrow

noreply@blogger.com (Robert Stehlik) — Thu, 19 May 2011 01:21:00 +0000

When Less is More

In Daoist and Zen thinking sometimes less is more. A classic example is the act of cooking fish. If you cook the fish to much it will become tough and flavorless. If you cook the fish with just the right amount of energy, it comes out moist and sweet. I have noticed that Surfing and SUP surfing has the same qualities as the Daoist and Zen thinking. Here are a few examples.

Over thinking/Over- Cognating your surfing.

The best surfing is done “in the zone”. While you are surfing everything becomes automatic and fluid. Without thinking, the wave reacts in one way and you automatically react to the wave. Everything is smooth and perfect. Take a look at Kelly Slater. His surfing looks as if it were driven by pure unconscious instinct. He and the board seem like one organism.

On the other hand when one begins to think about surfing, problems arise. I know this all too well. Whenever I try to do a big off the lip and think about it, my flow and form gets disrupted and I fall on my face. Then I make the mistake of thinking too much about why I fell and due to this, I subsequently fall again. This can ruin your whole session hence don’t give a fault to much energy. It will only grow and screw up your surfing.

Overpowering A Turn.

All too often I see surfers trying too hard. This has happened to me. At times I wanted to destroy the wave and be a “mega-slasher”. I would kick in turns and think I was ripping. Ben Aipa once told me, how can you go 100 mph in a 25mph zone. He said “you can’t see yourself but you look like a jerky, scurrying a’ama crab (a type of crab in Hawaii)”. I was pretty bummed at this and chose not to believe him. This all came to an end when my friend videotaped me. I was shocked at what I saw. I was swinging my arms wildly, jerking here, and hopping there. It was the most “unfluid” event one could imagine and I indeed looked like a crab because I was putting way to much energy in to my turns.

Ben corrected me by setting a volume from one to ten. If I was surfing 10 foot Hawaiian Jocko’s, Ben told me to set my volume at 8, 9 or even 10. If I were to surf 1 foot town, I was told to power down and “ride” at an easy volume of 2 or 3. The end result is that my surfing became fluid and free.

Noseriding

The hardest thing that I ever encountered in surfing is the noseride. It is here where the Zen and Daoist approach of less being more and not over-cognating becomes very apparent. The beautiful thing about noseriding is that everything is dictated by the wave. You are truly at the mercy of the ocean. If you try to force a noseride by running up the board the nose dips under the water and throws you off. To noseride properly your mind must be totally clear and you must be “in the zone”. Some times one waits for the noseride in a type of “necessary stillness”. It is almost like a meditative state. All the angles of the wave must be perfect to walk up to the nose of the board. The wave cannot be too curved nor can it be too strait.

When the time is right one cross-steps to the nose. This walk is not a bold “male” attack but a feminine dance. The Yin and Yang is most alive in the nose-ride. The less force that you put in your walk up to the nose the more the board lifts and the longer your nose-ride. This may sound counter intuitive but try it.

The next time you go to the ocean whether surfing or SUP surfing maybe it is a good idea to take it easy. Clear your mind and lower your volume and watch your surfing take off. Remember less can be more!

Written By Len Barrow

Downwind Clinic video- with Nicole Madosik, Jared Vargas, Morgan Hoeserey, Kainoa Beaupre

noreply@blogger.com (Robert Stehlik) — Mon, 16 May 2011 04:00:00 +0000

One of our customers asked me if I could join him on a downwind paddle and give him some tips. I invited some other customers and got help from some of my friends who also happen to be some of the fastest paddlers on Oahu to put together the first Blue Planet Downwind Paddle Clinic the week before the BOP Hawaii. We filmed the tips we gave on the beach before getting on the water and I put them together in a series of downwind paddling clinic videos that are 4-8 minutes each. If you have not seen the previous post, please also watch the video with Hawaii Kai run downwind racing tips. The last video (Part 6) has some gopro video from the water where you can see some of the participants putting what they learned into action.

Blue Planet Downwind Clinic part 1 with tips from Nicole Madosik and Jared Vargas

Blue Planet Downwind Clinic - Part 2 with tips from Jared Vargas and Morgan Hoesterey

Blue Planet Downwind Clinic- Part 3 with tips from Robert Stehlik and Kainoa Beaupre

Downwind Clinic- Part 4-Kainoa Beaupre with more downwind tips and line to Kaimana

Downwind Clinic- Part 5, Kainoa Beaupre talks about the inside line from Kaimana to Fort De Russy

Downwind Clinic - Part 6: End of the beach clinic and into the water

Timing and Efficiency

There is a good game on OCpaddler.com called 40 strokes, where the goal is to go as far as possible with 40 strokes using the waves. It teaches you timing and to use your strokes as efficiently as possible (although it is limited to two dimensions, in real life, going left and right can make a big difference). I have been able to get a score of just over 1900 but have not been able to get over 2000 as some others have. For tips, read some of the comments posted.

Hawaii Kai run tips for the BOP distance race

noreply@blogger.com (Robert Stehlik) — Wed, 11 May 2011 06:23:00 +0000

With the BOP coming up next weekend, I thought it would be a good time to post some tips for the Hawaii Kai run. This is the fist part of a series of downwind paddling tips and videos. Many thanks to Morgan Hoesterey for filming and editing this clip, with more downwind tips to come soon.

Note: These tips are based on predominant tradewind conditions. It looks like the wind will be light for the race on Sunday, which makes it less of a factor.

Hawaii Kai to Waikiki SUP racing tips for the Battle of the Paddle distance race from Robert Stehlik. Filmed and edited by Morgan Hoesterey. Brought to you by Blue Planet Surf

Some helpful links for the Hawaii Kai distance race:
Wind forecast:
http://www.windguru.cz/int/index.php?sc=20449
Current wind conditions:
http://www.iwindsurf.com/windandwhere.iws?regionID=159&regionProductID=1&timeoffset=0
Tide chart:
http://www.surfnewsnetwork.com/index.php?content_type_id=51

Here are some google earth images of the race course (click on image to enlarge)

The whole course

The start to blinker bouy:

Line to Black Point:

Around Diamond Head:

Turning in at the Lighthouse:

Going into Waikiki:

I won't be able to race this weekend but wish everyone a safe and fun race!

Aloha, Robert Stehlik

For more videos with downwind tips: Blue Planet Downwind Clinic