a.b. journey

Costa Rica (La Fortuna, Arenal & Manuel Antonio)

lexussin — Sun, 28 Jul 2019 14:36:13 +0000

A few years ago I bought the Lonely Planet travel guide on Costa Rica, more-so out of curiosity than initiating a trip at that time. Olivia must’ve been around 16 months then, perhaps a few months too soon to take on the natural wonders of the Central American country. In late 2018, the talk of a mid-winter trip was brewing with our friends Jason and Jessica (and son Jasper). We had previously traveled together to St. Martin and Mexico, Jasper and Olivia being tried and true travel buddies, were excited about venturing to a new destination (and so were we, the parents)! This time however, we would be going as a group of seven as Luna (our 14-month old), joined the ranks. This was Luna’s second trip out of the country. La Fortuna, Arenal & the Jungle Costa Rica is not a very big country (relative to the US), but it is quite diverse and itineraries can vary based on points of interest. Beaches and coast lines serve as the country’s western and eastern frontiers while mountains and valleys, volcanoes, rain and cloud forests dot the country’s interior. The capital, San José, is somewhat at center of it all and it served as the point of origin for our trip. We flew into San Jose and spent the night at a nearby airport hotel (highly recommended if arriving in the evening as to avoid driving the roads, some parts unlit at night). The following morning we set out towards the region of La Fortuna, which is host to one of country’s famed and still active volcanos (Arenal, 5,300 feet high — last erupted in 2010), about a 2+ hour drive from San José. Although considered young by experts, Arenal is one of the most active volcanoes in the world. Its most destructive eruption occurred in 1968 when lava blanketed an area of 15 square kilometers destroying 3 nearby villages and killing 87 people. Photocopies of pictures and newspaper clippings of the incident could still be seen in various coffee shops and restaurants in La Fortuna, serving a reminder of mother nature’s delicate yet ominous unpredictability. During our visit, Arenal stood as a permanent and quiet fixture in the beautiful backdrop, attracting clouds around the tip, perhaps concealing it’s true intentions. With 3 days in La Fortuna we had time to explore the area’s natural wonders, kicking off with the thick, lush and humid rain forests around Arenal, home to myriads of birds and other animals whose omnipresence brought the sounds of the forest to life. The La Fortuna Waterfall was a key and scenic point of interest, set within the verdant green forest and defined by the water’s 75 meter plunge into the emerald pool beneath. A few swimmers were scattered in pool cooling off from the humidity. The surrounding forests were teeming with peculiar trees and plants, insects and other animals like the coatis. Before our next excursion into the rain forest the following day, we filled our bellies with exotic fruit and chocolate at Don Olivo, one of the local plantations. Most of us in the US have at one point or another eaten bananas or pineapples from Costa Rica, but as we soon learned the best and most exotic fruit stays in the country. Star apple, guana, guanabana (or soursop), were among some of the fresh fruit we tasted straight from the trees or respective plants. It’s always fun to try new fruit especially with kids and seeing their silly reactions. But the thing that excited Olivia and Jasper most was the chocolate. After a tour of the cacao trees and a lick of the fruit itself, we were treated to a more formal tasting of chocolate made that very morning. Needless to say the kids packed the pieces away, although I think the adults lost track of how many squares we had also. All the fruit and chocolate consumed that morning was enough to power us through the afternoon’s visit to Arenal’s Mistico Park known for its hanging bridges. A sprawling area of protected rainforest laid ahead, as we took off on a 2-hour hike. The paved walkway traversed through the forest and all in we crossed 6 hanging bridges. The longest was about a football field’s length, and the drop down was about 60 meters, offering us the feeling of being one with the rain forest. It almost felt unnatural to be so integrated within nature. The canopy from the trees shielded us form the sun and kept the area cool, although the humidity begged of us consistent sips of water. Spotting various animals became an activity and we were lucky to encounter a few of them, including a dart frog and a coral snake, both bright and beautiful yet capable of killing their foes and prey in a moment’s strike. We were all in awe of the rain forest’s givings and its great biodiversity. Our last morning at La Fortuna presented itself as an opportunity to take a dip in the natural hot springs, where there are volcanoes there shall be hot springs! Jason, Jessica, Jasper, Olivia and I enjoyed what seemed to the most scenic bath ever taken, in a relaxing and beautiful setting. Manuel Antonio National Park & the Pacific Coast The second part of our trip was devoted to spending time on the beach and doing day trips to the Manuel Antonio national park. Our home for the next 4 days was the Clandestino Beach Resort. Situated off the beaten path, the 15 minute drive down the unpaved road delivered us to a remote and uncluttered location with full access to the vast beaches of the Pacific Coast. Time here seemed to take a backseat approach, while relaxing by the pool and on the beach quickly became the new norm. We alternated days between chilling on the property and visiting the Manuel Antonio National Park, which was about an hour’s drive further south. The park is one of the most popular Costa Rica destinations known for its beautiful tropical plants, it’s white sand beaches, and rich wildlife. We arranged for a morning tour lasting 2-3 hours, with numerous animal sightings including the beloved sloth, snakes, 3 or 4 different types of monkeys, tropical birds, and insects. The place seemed to have it all, and apparently it frequently plays as the subject of National Geographic documentaries. Aside its beauty and richness, I vividly recall how oppressively hot the day was. As the tour ended, I was very pleased as the jungle ushered us towards the beach for a much needed cool off in the ocean. On the way back to the Clandestino we stopped for lunch at El Avion in the town of Quepos. Perched atop a hill with expansive views of the Pacific, El Avion was host to one of our tastiest meals in Costa Rica, and also gave us the opportunity to learn more about the actual airplane (and its history), within the restaurant. With two days remaining on our trip, we set out for one last adventure and saw Manuel Antonio one more time, but this time by water. We had signed up for an afternoon catamaran tour, venturing into the waters of Manuel Antonio and offering perspective of its scenic coastline. We also sailed in search of dolphins and found several pods, driving the kids’ excitement to another level. A snorkeling session was built into the tour which took us in close proximity of dozens of sergeant major damselfish, the curious yellow & black striped and always seemingly hungry fish. To complete the fun, the catamaran was equipped with a couple of slides, that Jasper, Jason and Brigitte put to good use time and time again. As we sailed back to the marina the fiery red sunset closed the curtains to a fun and adventurous day. We spent the good part of our last day driving back to San José but stopped for lunch in the popular surfing town of Jaco. The frequent road signs for “killer tacos” had their effect, as we stopped at Tacobar for a yummy lunch and threw back fish tacos while slurping on fruit smoothies. From there it was about another 3-4 hours to San José, where we enjoyed one last tropical evening before our morning return flight to New York. Pura Vida, as the locals call it, is meant for everyone in life, from the youngest of travelers (like Luna), to those who make Costa Rica a permanent and final home.

The post Costa Rica (La Fortuna, Arenal & Manuel Antonio) first appeared on a.b. journey.

Austria (Vienna) & Czech Republic (Prague)

lexussin — Sat, 11 Nov 2017 13:07:54 +0000

When friends move away, the typical reaction is to be excited for them despite internalizing the sadness of their departure. Within the past year two sets of dear friends leaped across the Atlantic in pursuit of new endeavors. Our friends Philippe and Charlotte + kids headed off to Vienna while our dear friend Rich checked into Prague. It wasn’t so long after they had left that Brigitte started talking about visiting them. Lucky for us and them, Vienna and Prague are only separated by a 3.5 hour train ride. And so we set off for 1-2-punch European trip which also afforded us the opportunity to re-experience these beautiful capitals, this time with Olivia. Vienna We kicked off the weekend with unseasonably warm weather and beautiful blue skies upon arrival in Vienna. Catching up with our friends Philippe and Charlotte over a rooftop BBQ at their place made for an especially warm welcome. After a much needed power nap, we set out to discover some of the city’s more family oriented charms like the Prater and its amusement park (Prater is also home to Vienna’s famous Ferris Wheel). From fun ride to bumper cars and riding a mini-train, the kids had a blast at Prater, and Olivia adjusted well to the local time and routine (thankfully!). Our day trip to Kahlenberg & Grinzing (nearby Vienna suburbs laced with vineyards, heurigen or local taverns that make and sell wine, and beautiful hilltop views of the city), was more of a balance between kid and adult activities. The fall scenery was in fully effect with touches of red, brown, and gold that accentuated the green backdrop. A stop for lunch at one of Philippe and Charlotte’s go-to places in Grinzing served as the first of many encounters with delicious Viennese schnitzel. As the afternoon wore on, we checked out Palais Lichtenstein, a garden palace consisting of a children’s playground, the palace and its garden, and an outdoor cafe – only in Vienna! The playground was very popular with the kids and became a regular stop for the remainder of our days in the city. Prague As Monday morning came along we hopped on the Railjet (fast train), to Prague where we spent the next couple of days with Rich and Alina. Slicing through the scenic countryside brought back memories of our world trip (6 years ago). We visited some of the fairytale city’s charms, the old town square (Stare Mesto), Prague Castle, some of its ornate bridges while losing ourselves among the intricate streets. Exploring the city with Alina and Rich was also an introduction to some of their favorite cafes and restaurants including the elegant Cafe Savoy, and the awesomely and delectable Wine & Food (an Italian eatery akin to Eataly back in New York). Although we only spent two days together and had not seen Rich and Alina since September of last year, we made the most of catching up and getting a taste of their life in the magical city. Hopefully it won’t take another year for us to get together again, being an ocean apart is more of a mental barrier than physical. Back to Vienna Returning to Vienna midweek left us with four remaining days to hang out in the city. Each day Brigitte, O and I would set out to check out different sites and take a deep dive into the city’s cultural offerings. Stopping for tea, coffee (and desserts of course), became part of our daily routine. Vienna is known for its cafe culture: both Cafe Sacher (known for its eponymous Sacher torte or cake), and Cafe Central offered us a great slice of the cultural pie. One of our favorite dining places became Zum Schwarze Kameel (Black Camel), an Art Nouveau-style foodie destination that has been in business for nearly 400 years. It’s prime location in Vienna‘s old city district (now the heart of luxury shopping and other fine restaurants), makes it a staple with Viennese patrons (former patrons even included Beethoven). As the weekend approached we took a day to visit the Schönbrunn Palace which eluded us on our trip to Vienna six years ago. The Baroque 1,400+ room palace is one of Austria’s most notable architectural wonders and our 23-room tour offered an acute sense of the Habsburg’s lavish lifestyle. Although blue skies weren’t meant to be on that particular day, the palace grounds were still impressive and we enjoyed a combination of kid and adult attractions while soaking up Vienna’s rich history as a world empire. The expansive palace gardens are host to elaborate array of flowers, statues, mazes, playgrounds, and walking paths, where we spent a good part of the afternoon. As our last couple of days wound down we reflected on how wonderful this trip was, reconnecting with friends and gaining perspective into two beautiful cities through the local lens. Classic and classy Vienna presented itself as an eternal amalgam of centuries old art, culture, history and imperial might. All the while timeless Prague absorbed our curiosity and enveloped us in its magical charm. It was also amazing to see things through Olivia‘s eyes, her remark about how beautiful the “old” buildings were only inspires us to see more. ” order_by=”sortorder” order_direction=”ASC” returns=”included” maximum_entity_count=”500″]

The post Austria (Vienna) & Czech Republic (Prague) first appeared on a.b. journey.

Mexico (Playa del Carmen, Tulum & Chichen Itza)

lexussin — Sat, 25 Feb 2017 02:33:01 +0000

Por que no? Por que si! As a New Yorker I’ve always wanted to visit Mexico. Growing up in The Big Apple had appropriated me to Mexican culture, the cuisine, and Mexican people to a certain extent. I just never suspected it would take nearly 30 years to finally make the trip. Similar to last February, we planned another winter escape with our friends Jess, Jason and their son Jasper. This year’s destination would be Mexico’s Playa del Carmen (as it beat out Curaçao by majority vote). Located in the famed Yucatán peninsula, Playa del Carmen offers numerous attractions and activities that are perfect for families with toddlers. From historic Mayan Temples to gorgeous white sand beaches, to adventure-bound activities and a culinary haven, we would have much to do and see on our stay. Some people say the best Mexican food (outside of Mexico), can be found in California or Texas. Personally I think great Mexican food can also be found throughout NYC, and soon my passion for tacos would turn into a daily obsession south of the border. The direct flight from New York touched down at just under 4 hours (to Cancun International Airport). A short drive south (under an hour), placed us at Grand Coral Resort (Mareazul apartments), our abode for the ensuing 7 days. Our stay was very comfortable and the grounds were quite impressive boasting an enormous 30,000 square foot swimming pool. We spent one full day there but part of me wishes we had dedicated more time to splashing around in that piscina! In addition to the gargantuan pool (located feet from the beach), there was no shortage of adventures in Playa del Carmen. Our first was a day trip to Tulum (about 1.5 hours south of PdC), visiting Mayan Ruins set on picturesque cliffs overlooking the turquoise Caribbean Sea. The complex comprised numerous temples, some very well preserved attesting to Mayan architectural ingenuity capable of withstanding 1,000+ years. The complex at Tulum served as a port to other Mayan temple sites located throughout the Yucatán Peninsula. Another temple ruin site we checked off the list was Coba, in contrast to the Tulum ruins Coba’s temples were scattered throughout a dense jungle. Transport bikes guided the way through the greenery stopping at several sites along the way. Notably, the Nohoch Mul temple pyramid (137 feet high), is the tallest on the Yucatan Peninsula and can still be climbed (unlike most other temples). The adventure seekers in our group (Brigitte and Jason), took little time to summit the pyramid, and benefited from views of the jungle stretching into the horizon. The way up was “easier” (per the dynamic duo), as their descent appeared to be a calculated series of guarded steps, steering clear of the potential peril of tumbling down the steep incline (side note: the most famous Mayan pyramid of Chichen Itza can no longer be climbed as a tourist fell to her death in 2006). Our adventures to the temples were paired with some fun in the water on both occasions. In Tulum, we set upon the Playa Paraiso where the hours ticked by slowly and the frozen drinks kept the body temperature in check. Olivia and Jasper had a blast playing in the sand and taking dips in the sea. When it came to cooling off there was a bit of something for everyone. In addition to the Caribbean Sea and our swimming pool, the Yucatán is littered with natural sinkholes (called cenotes), many with fresh water at their cores. Apparently there are thousands of cenotes serving as popular attractions for swimming, snorkeling, diving or just cooling off. The Gran Cenote was one of our stops and served us well; the kids were also able to enjoy a dip and then penetrate one of the cenote’s caves (home to bats and some fish). The opposite end of Gran Cenote held a wider aperture with deep clear water, offering visibility into an intricate landscape of stalagmites (and an underground cave system). This part of the Cenote was busier but there was plenty of swimming room for everyone. With only a couple of days remaining on our vacation, we planned a day trip to the island of Cozumel followed by a visit to Chichen Itza on our last day. The morning ferry from Playa del Carmen to Cozumel (40 mins one way), docked in the heart of San Miguel, the main town on the island. From there we hired a taxi and headed south for about 25 minutes to Playa Palancar, a beautiful beach equipped with a restaurant and beach amenities. We spent a relaxing day there splitting time between lounging on the beach and splashing around in the sea. We also enjoyed another delicious lunch of fresh seafood right on the water’s edge. Cozumel was a perfect day trip! As our last day rolled upon us (too soon, always too soon), Brigitte, Olivia and I set out for Chichen Itza. Jess, Jason and Jasper headed to Puerto Morellos to do some shopping for the day. The 2.5 hour drive to Chichen Itza cut through the verdant countryside and numerous villages where signs of everyday life permeated on the road’s margin. Souvenir and local crafts stands stood out along with an occasional grocery store, implying a quieter way of life (in contrast to places like Playa del Carmen or Tulum). Chichen Itza attracts thousands of visitors daily, offering a glimpse into ancient Mayan life. Arriving early and traveling back in time (crossing time zones from EST to CST), paid off. We enjoyed a stroll among the ruins devoid of the soon arriving hoards of tourist buses. The temples are impressive and impeccably well preserved. In contrast to the previous ruin sites we visited, Chichen Itza is set on an open plain magnificently displaying the temples and their strategic layout. This design corresponded with the night sky and inspired the astronomical Mayan calendar. Also incorporated within the stone structures were local animals, believed by the Mayans to be soul companions. El Castillo or the grand pyramid (Temple of Kukulkan), stood erect at nearly 100 feet in the middle of the plain. Within the complex dozens of local vendors displayed the finest Mayan masks, fabrics, stonework, and other crafts/souvenirs, enticing visitors towards their next purchase. After a couple of hours at the grounds, we headed to the nearby town of Valladolid for lunch followed by a walk in the main plaza. We also learned the town was home to a cenote (Cenote Zaci), which later helped define our afternoon plans. A nominal fee (30 pesos or $1.50 US pp), bore access to the massive sinkhole and its seemingly bottomless pool of water. Zaci was less kid friendly but nonetheless we all enjoyed its cavernous and imposing beauty. On our last night in Playa del Carmen we opted for dinner at the same restaurant as on our first night, El Fogon taqueria (which came recommend by our VRBO’s owner). El Fogon actually has several locations in PdC. The al pastor tacos, margaritas and other yummies brought our trip full circle. The next morning would see us off to the airport headed back to the US, inevitably daring us to dream of a return to the land of the Maya. ” order_by=”sortorder” order_direction=”ASC” returns=”included” maximum_entity_count=”500″]

The post Mexico (Playa del Carmen, Tulum & Chichen Itza) first appeared on a.b. journey.

St. Martin / Sint Maarten (Caribbean)

lexussin — Tue, 23 Feb 2016 01:25:58 +0000

Ah, St Martin.. the last time we visited the dual-nation island was 4 years ago (Caribbean post, March 2, 2012). Things were quite different back then, we had just returned from our 8-month journey around the globe, still deeply subdued by the travel hangover. With winter in full swing (then and now), a trip to the Caribbean island was simply a must! St. Martin always held a special place in our hearts and we were very excited to share the experience with Olivia this time around. Joining us on the trip were our friends Jason and Jessica and their son Jasper, who quickly became Olivia’s bestie for the entire trip. They became inseparable from the plane ride down to St. Martin. This trip would take us back in many ways, back to our favorite Caribbean island, back to where we got married, and back with friends. The reason we even started going to St. Martin was to visit our friends Jenn and Mark who relocated there in 2009. They have since founded Les Fruits de Mer, an organization devoted to extreme shallow snorkeling that eventually morphed into a grander organization now devoted to preservation and education of wildlife on the island (and throughout the Caribbean). They do some pretty amazing work and luckily our trip coincided with their annual Tacousteau event, a night of food and fête and paying homage to the man who inspired them, Jacques Cousteau. Part of their recent work paved the way for the grand opening of Les Fruit de Mer’s Amuseum Naturalis (a pop-up museum showcasing the natural history of St. Martin and the Caribbean), which we experienced on our second night. The museum is free and well worth a visit! St. Martin or Sint Maarten (depending on which side if the island you’re on – French or Dutch), is a mid-size Caribbean island adorned by beautiful beaches, 36 in fact. We stayed at Orient Bay on the French side, in close proximity to several beaches which quickly became integrated within our daily itinerary. Also easily accessible from Orient Bay is the launch point for day-trips to nearby Pinel Island (some say this is the best kept secret on the island). A 5-min boat ride or a kayak over are the most popular ways of reaching Pinel. Once there, the mood is even more laid back than on the mainland, a perfect way to spend a day. The island’s two restaurants make the experience quite relaxed, offering lounge chairs, drinks and food service. Pinel is also a notable spot for water activities, primarily snorkeling. For those who seek a little bit privacy or wilderness, the other side of the island offers the perfect setting. Brigitte explored this part with Olivia napping in the ergo, soothed by the sound of gentle waves crashing onshore (almost “replicating” her sound machine at home). Our mornings on St. Martin were consumed mainly by beach-time, never setting upon the same beach twice (although on one occasion we ventured to the Butterfly Farm, a fun attraction for kids and adults). The kids found endless fun meddling in the sand, running around, and taking several dips in the water. I too engaged in the same pleasures sans the running around part, while others embarked on more adventurous endeavors. Brigitte set the bar high with her first-ever parasailing stint (at Orient Bay), while Jason and Jenn opted for a more abysmal ambition.They went snorkeling during part of our day at Pinel. Both of their experiences rendered telling pictures of fun, discovery and beauty. I kind of wished I had been more active myself but daydreaming on the beach got the best of me with island time in full effect. My imagination would drift into the blue-speckled hues of the Caribbean Sea, staring endlessly into the horizon as the cold Carib beers amplified my state of ease. This was my moment boys and girls, this was the big chill (until Olivia woke from her nap of course). As the week wore on our sun influenced complexions told the tale of our vacation. The week in St. Martin offered us many pleasures, beautiful beaches, turquoise waters, frozen piña coladas and cold beers to keep cool, bonding time with friends (old and new), and the invigorating reminder that weeks like this are very necessary. Above all, having Olivia and Jasper with us and seeing them in their element was truly special. Merci St. Martin! Invalid Displayed Gallery

The post St. Martin / Sint Maarten (Caribbean) first appeared on a.b. journey.

Portugal

lexussin — Mon, 07 Sep 2015 17:31:22 +0000

Lisbon The trip to the Iberian peninsula was much more than just a visit to Portugal. It bore special significance for two reasons: first, it was centered upon the Matti Family Reunion and second, it also reunited me with my girls who had been in Europe for the previous 2+ weeks. The Matti Family is a link through Brigitte and it had been many years since she had last seen many members of the family. I too was very excited about meeting everyone especially grandpa and grandma whom I had heard so much about over the years. And it was also a great opportunity to introduce Olivia. Everyone had travelled in from different pockets around the world, Grandpa and Grandma made the trip all the way from Hawaii while uncle Freddy and aunt Evelyne travelled over 20 hours from half-way around the world (Australia). Uncle Terry and aunt Kathy originated from Canada while cousin Jackie and her cool young dude son (Fiver), jetted in from Seattle (and her mom aka aunt Linda and bro aka cousin Anthony also flew in from Hawaii). Making a shorter trip were uncle Denis and Francoise from Switzerland and uncle Bob and auntie Sandra from the UK. But that’s not all, there were also the “kids” as Brigitte had remembered them from the last time she had seen many of them back in the ’90s. They were now adults and some had children of their own (i.e. cousins Hannah, Natalie and her son Jackson). Thus Portugal became the “central” destination for the reunion and the 26 of us set upon the village of Malveira da Serra, where the hilltop Morada da Sol property became home for 7 days. Uncle Denis and Francoise had scouted the location which proved perfectly situated proximity-wise to numerous attractions in the vicinity. Of immediate notice was the westward vista stretched by mending shades of blue, those of the Atlantic and the clear sky. Nearly 20 years ago I had spent a rainy weekend in Lisbon (while doing a semester abroad in Spain). My memory of the capital was somewhat foggy but our arrangement of spending a couple of days in the colorful city (before heading to family reunion), would remedy the lapses. Slowly parts of the city reemerged from the shadows. The historic Chiado neighborhood with its signature pedestrian Rua Augusta, (filled with restaurants, street performers and tourists), the classic trams traversing the city, and the beautiful arch at the tail of Rua Augusta giving an open view to the River Tejo. We had the good fortune of beautiful blue skies as we made our way through various bairros (neighborhoods). One of the more popular attractions (which I would highly recommend even if you only had a day in the city), is the impressive São Jorge Castle, a Moorish castle dating back centuries if not millennia. The steep incline up the narrow streets leading to the castle eventually paid off with a 360-degree panorama of the city. We stopped frequently on the way up, not so much to catch our breath or even tend to Olivia, but to admire the hundreds or thousands of azulejos (decorative ceramic tiles), adorning the exteriors of numerous homes. Of Arabic origin, the azulejos have been part of Portuguese design for centuries and were brought over from Spain in the 1500s. Whether they followed us along our travels throughout the greater Lisbon area, or we found them along the way, is a simple matter of perspective. Cascais & Sintra The week we spent in Maleveira da Serra placed us conveniently about 10-15 minutes away from Cascais, a colorful and historic fishing town just south of us (and only about 25 mins west of Lisbon. Cascais is loaded with restaurants and naturally delectable seafood reigns supreme. Grilled octopus with saute’d garlic spinach and smashed potatoes was one of my favorite lunches. On a different occasion the outing was quite special. It was dedicated to celebrating Denis’ birthday with the entire Matti Family at Casa Velha (1878), over indulging not only in the food but in story-telling and forming new memories. It was also the first time I tasted a dry white port, served as an aperitif. Fittingly for Olivia, there was a carousel just across the way from Casa Velha where she had much fun going round and round on her favorite animals. Heading north of Malveira da Serra the undulating coastal road offered us a few unique experiences. Each day was an opening to explore, a new town, a new beach a new landmark. Much of Portugal is defined by the coast and although we only experienced a portion of it, the statement was made. Raw, rugged and perilously beautiful, it stands up to the ferocious and unrelenting beating from the Atlantic. At Cabo da Roca (the most Western point of the European Continent), the views inspire today the thousands of tourists seeking a breathtakingly perfect shot. (We too sought ours in various spots at times with Olivia zonked out in the ergo). Perhaps centuries ago, the coast conceivably inspired the intrepid voyages half-way around the world, those of Vasco da Gama, Magellan and other conquistadors. Men whose conquests of foreign lands and natural resources (from India to Brazil), enriched the Portuguese Empire beyond imagination. Traces of that are still evident today in some of the buildings that were commissioned as a result of the influx of wealth. The massive yet delicately detailed Mosterio Jeronimos in Lisbon’s Belem neighborhood is one (commissioned after the Portuguese explorers reached India), and the gargantuan Palacio Nacional in Mafra is another example. The Mafra palace became a national monument in 1910 and has since offered insider access to the royal family’s 1800s lifestyle (reflected in its 1,200+ rooms and halls). After a generous hour wandering endlessly from floor to floor and room to room of various themes and decor, we made our way into the library, one of the most impressive areas of the palace. Today it still possesses one of the richest collection of books in the country with over 36,000 leather bound volumes. A different type of collection can also be found in one of the palace’s courtyards, one of endangered birds of prey (in partnership with an organization that protects them). The benefit to tourists is the opportunity to get a photo taken with a bird of choice (eagle, flacon, owl, etc), with all proceeds going to their care taking. Brigitte seized the moment with North American owl, a beautiful and gentle bird with mesmerizing yellow eyes. En route to Mafra we made a pit-stop at Jose Franco’s miniature village, a masterful representation of traditional homes and farms outside the cities. We Gulliver’ed our way through and Olivia had a blast running around the place with things being a little more her size. Jose Franco’s world was not only a depiction of rural life but a portal into a fantasy. That notion stayed with us throughout parts of the trip, especially the day we made our way to Sintra’s Palacio de la Pena. Sintra’s allure comes in various forms, from magical palaces and castles to dense forests, scenic views, and a romantic town center comprised of colorful shops, numerous wine bars and restaurants. As we drove through town (en route to nearby attractions), we took notice of Sintra’s charm and looked forward to wandering its street at lunch. As the road continued beyond the town limits it snaked up towards Palacio de la Pena and the Castelo dos Mouros (or Moorish Castle). Arriving early (by 8:30am), paid off in finding a parking spot in what later seemed a parking nightmare. We decided on the palace as the first stop and walked an aggressive incline to reach it. With our heads tilted backward and trees giving way to a direct view, our initial reaction was awe at the palace’s peculiar appearance. Yellow, red and blue.. what the!? was this recently converted into a Disney castle or was is a deliberate choice in color? As we learned later upon navigating the grounds, King Fernando II was in fact an artist and gained inspiration from the palace’s hilltop location. Naturally the palace’s melange of primary colors began to make sense. Facing westward just beyond the yellow and green landscape, the clear blue sky intersected with the deeper Atlantic blue to form the horizon. The views were breathtaking. In the opposite direction (inland), just minutes away by foot stood the Castelo dos Mouros, a magnificent stone structure dating to the 8th or 9th century. This time it was I who carried Olivia (while she zonked out in the ergo), working our way up to castles’ peripheral wall. The views from there were stunning as well. In contrast to Palacio de la Pena, the Moorish castle was far more minimalist and pure than its colorful neighbor (it was also constructed about 1,000 earlier). From there we made our way into the heart of Sintra for lunch followed by a stroll through its various shops checking out the local arts and crafts. As the week wound down after days of exploration and fun with the Matti Family, the inevitable farewells were said and the sad feeling of parting ways too soon set in. It sounded like everyone still had days if not weeks of vacationing left after the family reunion, except for us unfortunately. On our last full day in Portugal we carved out time for a visit to Lisbon’s notable wine region around the town of Azeitao. In my mind, a trip to an old world wine country would not be complete without a visit to one of its wine regions. And although the drive to Azeitao was mostly industrial and not quite scenic, things changed within a mile or so from town. Vineyards came into view on both sides of the road as if the stage design masters dreamed up a bucolic backdrop and rapidly manipulated sets. It was now a true wine country welcome, as far as the eye could see hills were covered with vineyards. We made our way into little town mainly defined by one principal road speckled with a handful of restaurants, cafes, wine bars, and a church. Small town indeed but wine tradition boasted grandiose here, two of Portugal’s largest wineries (with one being the oldest), are found in Azeitao. They are Jose Maria da Fonseca and Bacalhoa, with JMF’s tasting room and cellar situated in the center of town. Timing didn’t align for us to tour the cellar, instead we indulged in a tasting of various labels and blends (mostly dry reds and whites). With our palettes attuned, we settled in for lunch right across the street at Casa das Tortas (its backyard restaurant), where a bottle of Periquita (Branco 2014), kept us cool on a hot bright day. From Azeitao we headed to Lisbon for our last night before the morning flight back home. We kept with the wine theme and wandered through Bairro Alto‘s festive streets capturing some last minute photos before taking a break at one of the neighborhood wine bars. A few doors down we found Bar Alto (our dinner spot), where we reflected on our trip and the people we spent time with, wishing we didn’t have to fly home so soon. Fittingly Brigitte’s wine glass was accommodating enough for both of us to drown our sorrows. Looking back, our trip to Portugal was special for two reasons. First, we spent most of our time with an incredible group of people, telling stories, cooking and eating together, and bonding as if we had known each other for years. It takes a unique group of people to make you feel this welcome and personally it meant a lot. It was also amazing to see how everyone took so openly to Olivia, the smallest and youngest member of the family. Second, Portugal is simply an amazing country, obrigado! Thank you Matti Family!

The post Portugal first appeared on a.b. journey.

Colombia (Cartagena)

lexussin — Wed, 06 May 2015 01:37:14 +0000

It’s been roughly two years since our last post, no, we haven’t stopped traveling, we’ve just been busy with life which included expanding our clan. As first time parents we made a conscious decision to expose our little one to travel early on and adapt to the situation as it comes along. This was the case with our trip to Cartagena. It wasn’t Olivia’s first, second, or third time traveling abroad, but it was the first time she was of “age” and we had decided on a new destination for all three of us. We dedicated a full week to Cartagena and enjoyed our pool-equipped accommodations in the neighborhood of San Diego, just minutes from El Centro (but still within the walled city). The pool was quickly integrated within our daily routine, a great way to combat the omnipresent heat and humidity that’s characteristic of the tropical city. Cartagena has its roots as a Spanish colonial town that’s situated on the northwestern Caribbean coast of Colombia. It’s preservation over the centuries offers visitors a tangible link to the past as time had played a gentle hand here. Layered on top, the city’s cultural and culinary wealth has real depth and we indulged ourselves at every opportunity. Daily we set out bright and early to explore the 400+ year old city, navigating through the mosaic of its brightly colored streets boasting beautiful architecture with signature street facing balconies. Within minutes from our “casa” in San Diego we accessed the numerous notable historical sights within the Centro and its open Plaza de la Aduana or main square. Also on the list, the Inquisition Palace: for history with a twist of gore this is the place, however today its peaceful garden serves as paradox to the countless executions that occurred there. The Gold Museum: for a look at ancient civilizations and their splendid artisanship in gold, this museum delivers on their legacy. And the St Peter Claver Convent/Church: if you’re seeking serenity, great architecture and a respite from the heat then this is the spot. The Cathedral is yet another highlight, its tower visible from virtually any point of the city. Walking the city was our choice mode of navigation and we encountered countless restaurants, bars and shops along the way. Stopping often for cold drinks, food and breaks in the shade become routine. Armed with restaurant recommendations from friends along with local suggestions, we worked our way through a long list. We tried several places in the Centro and in its neighboring Getsemani, a more demure part of town decorated by vibrant graffiti. Our two favorite meals of the trip both happened in Getsemani at Oh La La (French/Colombian Bistro), and La Gaucha (Argentinian). After a few days exploring the city, we embarked on a day boat trip to the nearby archipelago that consists of 27 islands scattered throughout the Caribbean Sea. Turquoise waters and fine sand beaches is what most brochures had advertised just a boat ride away. Our hotel recommended Isla de Encanto due to its laid back vibe (absence of relentless souvenir vendors), and proximity to Cartagena (1 hour by speed boat). Although the water wasn’t as clear and crisp as we had dreamed of, we did enjoy the beach and the prolonged dips in the water while taking turns with our daughter, Olivia. As the week wound down we paid a visit to the nearby Castillo San Felipe (a quick cab ride away), the largest fortress built by the Spanish Empire outside of Spain. Imposing in size, the castle sits atop the San Lazaro Hill offering an open vista of Cartagena and the vast Caribbean Sea that disappears into the horizon. As a masterpiece of defense, the fortress served as protector to Cartagena and thwarted numerous foreign invasions over the centuries. Our audio guide took back us in time giving context to the mammoth structure and its design. One key feature was the dark and endless tunnel system connecting various parts of the fortress while filtering through a cool breeze. Still facing Cartagena today, Castillo San Felipe remains a defining figure in the city’s history as well as a reminder of the city’s might and prosperity. Cartagena was a demystifying aperture into part of Colombia’s rich culture and warm people. Our week seemed to tic away too soon as we lost ourselves within the timeless city driving our curiosity well beyond its walls. It also proved long enough for Olivia to pick up her first Spanish word, “hola”.

The post Colombia (Cartagena) first appeared on a.b. journey.

Argentina Part 2 – Patagonia

lexussin — Sun, 14 Apr 2013 17:19:49 +0000

Our trip took a 180-degree turn when we arrived in Patagonia, going from urban and hot to highly remote, scenic and frigid. Argentine Patagonia is one of the country’s vast regions that includes the third largest ice field in the world (home to 300+ glaciers in the Andes Mountains). Apparently tourism to this area has increased exponentially over the years but there still is plenty of untouched countryside to make you feel like you’re in the middle of nowhere. The landscape around El Calafate and El Chalten (where we stayed), is comprised of a massive steppe, a yellow carpet of arid, inhospitable land largely devoid of trees. The surrounding canyons created the perfect set for a Western film. The finishing touches to the masterpiece landscape came in form of two of the largest and vibrant turquoise lakes in Argentina (Lake Argentino and Lake Viedma). And just on the horizon to the east, the snow-capped Andes mountain range added another element to the already tranquil and scenic landscape. We filled our days in Patagonia with outdoor activities centered around the magnificent nearby glaciers and turquoise lakes that came as a result of their melting. We got up close and personal with the Perito Moreno glacier by doing a mini trek. It was our first ever and the unique experience was rewarded with a glass of scotch towards the end of the trek (while on the massive piece of ice). Thanks to Perito, the ice that filled out glasses came as courtesy of the glacier itself. Our guides had set up a rudimentary mini bar in anticipation of an excited and thirsty bunch of trekkers. Salud chicos! As we later exploited several observation points to capture memorable shots of the incredible ice, thunderous cracks gave way to chunks of Moreno calving into its lake. These were special moments, mother nature at its finest on a clear crips day. The following day we headed by boat towards the Upsala Glacier, once the largest in the entire ice field. The boat trip offered a different vantage point and allowed us to come within proximity of Upsala’s splintered icebergs, massive chunks of ice seemingly floating on the lake. Gingerly approaching the monster chunks provided a clear picture of the magnitude of the glacier which apparently has been in recession for many decades. Later that day we even got to see how far the ice mass receded in the past 80 years. A bumpy 4X4 ride on a nearby mountain brought us to the main view point of Upsala and the surrounding landscape. The mountain we drove up (a huge chunk of mainly sedimentary rock), appeared in peculiar form as twisted red steel with giant striations. But the view from this enormous mountain junkyard served up a harmonious quartet of Patagonian’s finest. A string of snow-capped mountain peaks, valleys oozing out glaciers, massive emerald lakes and this crazy twisted landscape we drive up on. As cliche as it may sound, our planet has a spectacular imagination. From Upsala we made our way down to Estancia Cristina, a solitary ranch that was established in the early 1900s by an immigrant British family. Although no longer in function, the ranch offered an inside look at the life of the former owners over the past hundred years (wool trade as one of their primary sources of income). Laying in the grass after having lunch outside with nearby horses in the backdrop was just an easy way to spend part of the afternoon. After two days of experiencing mighty glaciers we made our way north to the minute town El Chalten or the gateway to all Mt. Fitz Roy expeditions. We opted for a day hike to Laguna de Los Tres, an amazing place that offered front row seats to Mt. Fitz Roy’s scenic peak (the same peaks that inspired the logo of outdoor wear manufacturer Patagonia). The hike itself was also a highlight, starting out through beautiful forests. A couple of hours later the trail took a serious vertical turn that definitely pushed us. Frequent rest stops and water breaks aided our arduous ascent which finally paid off with a spectacular view of Mt. Fitz Roy, its resident glaciers and emerald lake. We took our time up there, taking it all in and appreciating the raw beauty of this Patagonian paradise. Our decent back into town lasted a few hours given our repetitious photo stops to capture the scenic landscape. The view in the last hour opened up to a beautiful valley severed by the Rio de Las Vueltas. When finally back in town we decided on a hard day’s work of “parilla” or grilled meat (steaks), at Como Vaca for dinner. From vibrant Buenos Aires touched by a multitude of cultural hands to the raw and untouched beauty of Patagonia, Argentina (land of the Tango, delectable steaks, Maradona and Evita), had found a warm place in our hearts.

The post Argentina Part 2 – Patagonia first appeared on a.b. journey.

Argentina Part 1 – Buenos Aires

lexussin — Sat, 30 Mar 2013 23:28:05 +0000

I hadn’t decided to write an entry for our Argentina trip until about half way in (while in Patagonia). Something had just clicked after our day on the ice, exploring and admiring the mighty Perito Moreno glacier (but we’ll get to that later). Besides, it would be selfish not to share our experience in what is an amazing country (that would consequently receive a lot of promotion on our behalf). Our trip started in the historic capital (Buenos Aires), hopping around from one contrasting neighborhood (barrio), to another. Buenos Aires has it all, a European look and feel defined by posh Parisian style buildings, grandiose palaces (in the upscale neighborhoods of Recoleta and Barrio Norte), impressive avenues and a mix of everything else good and bad. On the opposite end of the ritz lies Boca, a very blue collar and even poverty stricken barrio that’s actually one of the city’s main attractions for its Caminito (the neighborhood’s main touristic artery), boasting houses painted in vibrant red, yellow, green and blue. But the incredible color went deeper than the houses, it was also felt in Boca’s people making for an immensely expressive community. Boca is also renown for being the home of one of the city’s top futbol or soccer clubs – Boca Juniors – who’s most famous player was demi-god Diego Maradona. A picture with one of his impersonators in the Caminito was simply too much to resist and cost 40 pesos (about $6). But in between the two extremes of upscale and gritty neighborhoods, there was plenty of middle ground which we found in our favorite barrios, San Telmo and Palermo Soho. Distinctly different, San Telmo boasted a Bohemian vibe with plenty of character and artistry (and great architecture too). Point in case was the superfluous Sunday flea/antique market where we discovered numerous cool souvenirs and amazing art. The neighborhood is also known for its Tango, often times exercised by street performers in front of sizable admiring crowds. Running into pockets of tangoers naturally came with the flow of San Telmo’s intricate streets, many of which are still in original cobble stone. We decided to have some fun there and explore some of SanTelmo’s “bares notables” a handful of mid-19th Century bars that became famous for the “notable” clientele they attracted. We made our way inside a handful and admired the original bar woodwork in many cases complemented by art nouveau detail and collections of relics from the past. Black and white photos of famous personalities hung on walls alongside cool vintage posters while old bottles of liqueur lined the upper dusty shelves. We were inspired by La Poesia and decided on lunch at this former literary cafe with exposed brick walls, old oak tables and chairs, and many relics from its older days. Soft tango numbers and Louis Armstrong classics emanated from the radio bringing on the fantasy of Buenos Aires in the days of Carlos Gardel (one of Argentina’s most renown singers from the 1920s and 30s). A few blocks away, an older gentleman suited up to play the part of Gardel captured our imagination by lip synching his melancholy classics. His expressive face severely weathered by time parlayed his longing for the good old days. I observed him from across the street while part of me was consumed with inexplicable sadness. San Telmo’s bares notables were profound but the neighborhood is also littered with numerous other cafes, bars, restaurants and makeshift open air barbecues or “asados”, serving up the classic sausage in bread known as “choripan“. As perfunctory as the picture with “Maradona” was in Boca, so was a tasty “choripan” in San Telmo. I enjoyed mine with an oversized (1 Liter), bottle of Argentina’s most popular beer (Quilmes), at one of the makeshift outdoor asados. Last barrio on this list but actually our first to discover was Palermo Soho. Having our hotel there made it easy to explore the neighborhood’s New York City Soho-like streets filled with couture shops, art galleries, book stores and numerous cafes and restaurants. The cobble stone tree line streets brought out the best in the low-rise colonial style architecture with many houses dressed in pastel colors and a touch of graffiti. Palermo Soho emanated a chill vibe with a hint of sophistication and loads of street art. It was tough to spot an untagged building or facade. This barrio was also where we enjoyed a couple of typical Argentine dinners including the delectable “bife de chorizo” or sirloin steak paired with Malbec from Mendoza (the country’s top producing wine region). Buenos Aires fueled our imagination and made it easy for us to get entrenched in its deep and diverse cultural heritage. We hope one day to return to this South American capital.

The post Argentina Part 1 – Buenos Aires first appeared on a.b. journey.

Basque Country (France & Spain) & Bordeaux Wine Country (France)

lexussin — Mon, 30 Jul 2012 00:38:08 +0000

Going to France for 3 days is not the easiest way to vacation. I did miss Europe a lot but this wasn’t a relapse episode after last year’s extended journey (at least I keep telling myself so). This time around it was for the wedding of our dear friends Philippe and Charlotte. The setting was the southwest of France which meant several things. First, I would be reuniting with my wife who was already there. Second, the wedding was set to take place in Bayonne (in the Basque country, a region neither Brigitte nor I had visited before). Third, the day after the wedding we would be roaming around Bordeaux to visit a few wineries, something I had been dreaming about for several years. With only a couple of days to explore the area we had no choice but to hit the ground running. Our first taste of the Basque country was beautiful Bayonne, known for its delectable Jambon de Bayonne (dry-cured ham), and it is also the place where the bayonet was born. The town itself is severed by the Adour River and its romantic waterfront restaurants offered great choices for a dinner spot. We were eager to indulge in a local meal especially after stumbling into a couple of charcuteries (or meat shops). There, one can easily stand paralyzed in awe by the rich and aromatic collection of whole pig leg hams and sausages hanging from the ceiling. The best part of course was being able to sample some of the delicacies, which left us licking our chops. But there was so much more to the beautiful town that proudly wore its red, green and white colors on its sleeve and where the sanguine tradition of bull fighting lives strong. The Sainte-Marie Gothic Cathedral was a perfect example with its characteristic and ornate double steeple. Upon entering we were greeted by an emphatic pipe organ piece that was refracting off the massive stone columns. With the wedding taking place in the mid-afternoon the following day, we decided on a morning road trip across the border into Spain to the city of San Sebastian (about 30 minutes away). We were both hungry for some tapas and it had been way too long since either of us had been to Spain (12 years for Brigitte and 15 for me). We walked around town for a couple of hours scoping out the beautiful architecture while working up a serious appetite. San Sebastian proved to be worth our venture and our meal was a long overdue reminder of Spain’s culinary prowess. Biting into that tortilla espanola took me right back to 1997 when I had spent a semester studying in Madrid. Later that afternoon our dear friends tied the knot in a beautiful church and blessed us all with an amazing and festive reception. I think Brigitte’s favorite part was being able to repeatedly savor side by side shavings of Bayonne and Serrano hams during cocktail hour. The party took us well into the morning when we finally said goodbye to the beautiful newlyweds and their international entourage. Waking up at 9am the next morning was tough, but knowing that we had an afternoon of wine tasting lined up (in Bordeaux’s Left Bank), totally made up for it. I was introduced to fine Bordeaux wine in 2004 by my father in law but only started appreciating it about 5 or 6 years ago. This trip around Bordeaux felt very much like homecoming, and in all fairness for all the Bordeaux I’ve been drinking I was hoping there’d be a vineyard bearing my name (or at least a cork). Bordeaux is the largest wine producing region in the world and also the best (my opinion as well that of top wine critics). But not all of its wines are created equal. Its finest are categorized by a “classification” system with first class wines fetching $1000 a bottle in a great vintage. But that wasn’t my calling, I was simply eager to finally visit the appellations (or designated wine regions), whose wines I have been drinking, learning about and adoring for years – Paulliac, Medoc, Margaux, St. Julien, Pessac and more. And that’s exactly what we did, we tasted wines from several chateaux or wineries. As opulent and delicious as the wines were, the landscape was just as marvelous. The little towns we drove through were all inter connected by vineyards that stretched into the horizon, a bucolic landscape accentuated by the green vines, bright blue sky and limestone-colored towns. And every so often we would pull up to an actual chateaux or castle that dated back to the 16th or 17th century (and most were shockingly beautiful). Many of these can be seen on the labels of Bordeaux wines and up until now that was the only way I knew of them. Invalid Displayed Gallery

The post Basque Country (France & Spain) & Bordeaux Wine Country (France) first appeared on a.b. journey.

Sweden (Gothenburg) – July 2012

lexussin — Sun, 15 Jul 2012 19:06:42 +0000

After a few days of exploring Copenhagen, we moved on to Gothenburg for our friends’ highly anticipated wedding. We arrived by train which tore straight up Sweden’s picturesque southwestern coast. Gothenburg is Sweden’s third largest city (located on the water), and is one of Scandinavia’s most important ports. This meant not only more boats but more salmon and herring as well. The weekend festivities kicked off Friday night at one of the city’s happening venues (Yaki-Da). It was also where the NY crew met the local contingent and got to break through the cultural barrier guided by the local experts. It seemed as though the partying never really stopped (for some people), it just kind of faded into the wee hours of the morning before resuming a few hours later. The next day was the main event at one of the city’s most notable churches followed by the reception which took place on one of the islands off Gothenburg’s archipelago. The rustic setting was beautiful: an old barn, a romantic walkway by the water and a lot of green. The scenic mist brought out the best in the contrasting colors and the sun was never really missed. But most important was the fact that one of my dearest friends married the woman who put “the pep” in his step (as he had said). In true Swedish fashion we had an amazing night celebrating and toasting them with numerous bottles of wine (Skol!), and heartfelt speeches. The next day we finally got to check out the city and did a walking tour of some of its historic and notable parts. Haga is the oldest district and its cobblestone streets are lined with cafes and various antique shops. The nearby hilltop fort offered panoramic views of the city with numerous church steeples piercing towards the sky. There was a feeling calm and quiet that shrouded Gothenburg, or maybe it was a function of it being Sunday afternoon. For dinner we linked up with several friends from the wedding and took to Uba, a Cuban restaurant overlooking the canal and situated right next one of the city’s museums. Dinner and the company was great and Uba’s hip backyard set the scene for a soirée of beautiful Scandinavians, cold mojitos and old-school beats. The last night anywhere while on vacation tends to skew toward melancholy and such was the case here. But no time for a sour face, the reality was we spent a few days with best friends and experienced two beautiful new places.

The post Sweden (Gothenburg) – July 2012 first appeared on a.b. journey.