I guess we weren’t really surprised.

It may not have been a tragedy but we felt the loss all the same.

What happened?

We ran out of Rita’s oil!

We’d been using it on and off for the best past of two months and like all good things, it finally came to an end.

It’s hard to go back to oil from the supermarket after using nectar from the olives of Loreto Aprutino.

So today we went to a local food market in Dublin and bought a litre of oil from Puglia that was pressed last November. It’s good oil, nice and peppery. It catches the throat in a way that supermarket oil doesn’t and never will.

But it isn’t oil from Loreto Aprutino and it isn’t Rita’s oil.

There’s something about buying oil from the person whose olives were used to make it. Sourced from olive trees you pass everyday. Buying it from somebody who understands how lucky they are to have such a resource.

That’s food provenance.

On our last trip to Abruzzo we deliberately brought an almost empty suitcase so we could bring goodies back. Rita’s oil was part of that goodie-bag.

Oil on bread with a little salt isn’t a natural combination for people born in Ireland but everyone we’ve challenged to try it has loved it.

The olive oil tradition of Loreto Aprutino is so important to the town that it has its own oil museum.

It’s a fascinating place.

The Museo d’Olio was officially opened on 14 May 2005 as a result of the efforts of Bruno Carboni. Carboni was born in Subiaco near Rome, grew up in Piombino in Tuscany and settled in Abruzzo in the 1960′s. He was a lawyer specialising in commercial law but his passion was archaeology. He was involved in many important digs during the 1970′s including the Italic necropolises of Nocciano, San Clemente in Casauia and the Neolithic settlement of Villa Badesse in Rosciano.

Without the efforts of Bruno Carboni, my favourite museum in Loreto Aprutino might not exist.

The museum is dedicated to great names of the local olive oil culture.  The building itself, Castelletto Amorotti, is based on the design of the painter Francesco Paolo Michetti, who wanted to evoke the feeling of a ship’s prow breaking through waves.

Did he succeed? What do you think?

Inside the building one name stands out – Raffaele Baldini Palladini.

He was a volunteer in Garibaldi’s army in 1860′s and later, in 1880′s he opened an olive oil factory located between the walls of the Castelletto.

Using the latest methods of manufacture, focusing on hygiene, and meticulous devotion to the art of oil production, the reputation of Raffaele Baldini Palladini’s oil from the small town of Loreto Aprutino grew and grew.

It was praised in Rome, Naples and Paris and sought after in Switzerland, Germany and USA. Palladini even received a special order from the Tsar of Russia who felt it was the oil best suited to his palate.

But like Rita’s oil at the start of this post all good things come to an end. The death of Raffaele Baldini Palladini and the onset of the First World War was the beginning of the factory’s slow decline.

The Amorotti family attempted to revive the mill’s fortunes but World War II and occupation by German soldiers ended that dream.

Even though the golden era of Raffaele Baldini Palladini is long over Loreto Aprutino still produces superb oil. Part of the golden triangle that includes nearby Moscufo and Pianella you are in for a treat if you buy oil from this wonderful region.

I admit I’m biased. I also admit that right now I’m using oil from Puglia and it’s certainly very tasty, but it’s not the same as local oil from Loreto Aprutino.

I think it’s time to make another trip.

Post from: About Abruzzo

A Very Old Tradition That’s Alive and Well in Loreto Aprutino

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But if you’ve access to any of these wonders of modern technology then you can attend my very first Abruzzo themed photo exhibition.

Using 500px as the host platform I’ve been building a collection of my favourite photographs.

So at no cost (other than your interest and your time), without having to leave the comfort of your own home (unless you are out and about with a mobile device!) you can click on the Abruzzo section of the newly created Noel McCarthy Photography site here

http://noelmccarthyphotography.com/abruzzo/

Selecting the images was a surprisingly hard task and I’m not finished yet. I’ve built up quite a collection of photographs and as I go through the process of re-examining them I’m adding those that I think are special to my Noel McCarthy Photography site.

Please take a look and let me know what you think of the selection so far.

(If I find an elegant way of embedding the collection in this site I’ll certainly give it a go but all approaches I’ve tried so far have been far from ideal so hence my use of links.)

Post from: About Abruzzo

My First Abruzzo Photo Exhibition

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Earlier in the week I learned that she had died. She lived a long life and was well known around the streets of Loreto Aprutino.

In recent years she recovered from being struck by a car and later from a bronchial infection. Rest and antibiotics helped her overcome these unfortunate events but finally old age caught up.

Her name was perfect.

The noun guardia translates into guard, sentry, guardian and in the case of cane da guardia it is guard dog or watch dog.

When I think of guard dogs or watch dogs I think of vicious angry dogs, chained and barking that leave you in no doubt that their primary purpose is to put fear into your bones and ensure you keep well clear.

Guardia was not that type of guard dog. She was gentle, calm, quiet – much more of a watcher or a protector – a true guardian.

She was usually stationary, basking in the sun near the church of Sant’Antonio or curled up somewhere along Martiri Pennesi.

Although she was a street dog she was well looked after. In theory she belonged to nobody but in reality she was part of one particular family. So much so that when our neighbour would walk to the market to buy her shopping Guardia followed no more than ten paces behind. It was as if there was an invisible cord tying them together.

An unbreakable bond.

The only time I ever heard Guardia bark was when she was suffering from a bronchial infection. It wasn’t really a bark, more a cough that she made while trying to clear her throat. But after treatment she was soon back to to her silent ways.

She was a bit more ponderous after she recovered from being hit by the car. Slower certainly, but in truth she was never that quick to begin with. Running around chasing short lived distractions wasn’t part of Guardia’s character.

I’ve taken many photographs around Loreto Aprutino and in a few images you can see Guardia doing what she appeared to do best – looking on as the events of the day rolled by.

I’m going to miss Guardia.

Post from: About Abruzzo

The Guardian of Salita Sant’Antonio

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The weather over the Christmas/New Year period had been dry with temperatures consistently above 10 degrees. Friday 4 January was no different and it was a perfect day to explore a part of Abruzzo I didn’t know very well.

We didn’t have a clear blue sky, there were a few fluffy clouds, but there was no chance of rain.

We set off early enough and decided to avoid the motorway so we skirted Pianella, Cepagatti, and Nocciano as we made our way towards Cugnoli and on to Corvara.

The journey time was less than an hour which suited us perfectly. Our day was not entirely our own as we had to be back at base by mid afternoon for an appointment. The one hour journey allowed us plenty of time to stop for photos, do a bit of exploring and find a good spot for lunch.

Why visit Corvara?

Corvara sits at about 625 metres above sea level so the views from the town on a bright clear January day promised to be spectacular.

We parked near a small church just before a bridge and started walking up the narrow streets.

A word of warning; don’t expect bars or shops in Corvara. If you need to buy anything your best bet is to stop at Cugnoli or perhaps Pescosansonesco.

Although Corvara looks like a good sized town from down below as you walk around you soon realise that many of its houses are unoccupied.

As we explored, we met only one person who lives in the town and he told us that Corvara, like many mountain villages of Abruzzo, emptied in the 1950’s. Many families abandoned their homes and headed overseas to places like Canada and Venezuela in the hope of finding work.

Walking around the town you could easily see the contrast between the homes in good repair and the more distressed, unoccupied houses.

I’m not sure if I read that there are only six families living there now or that there are only six houses occupied now. Either way there are much fewer people than back before emigration took hold.

We followed the steps and narrow streets up to the top of the town to a magnificent ancient olive tree. From there the views of the surrounding countryside were simply stunning.

We were lucky to have the opportunity to visit on such a beautiful day.

The only sound we heard apart from our own voices and the odd dog bark was the tap, tap, tap of a carpenter at work in a small piazza below.

In the 1950’s Italy, like most of Europe, was in a serious economic crisis. Many Italians headed to France, Switzerland, Belgium, United States, Canada or South American for work.

Around this time many were leaving Ireland heading to England, Canada and the north eastern region of the United States.

In Ireland we have our abandoned villages too.

So here we are sixty years on and the economic conditions over the last few years have once again forced many people to leave for work overseas.

Earlier this month Italy’s national statistics institute Istat said that the country was in its longest recession in the last 20 years, after it registered a negative growth for the sixth consecutive quarter.

According to The Guardian, in November 37.1% of young people across Italy were out of work – the highest since records began in 1992.

I would expect that issues like these should be a priority for all of Italy’s politicians and the entire population when voting in the General Election on 24–25 February.

Still it was a beautiful, almost warm, winter’s day and as we walked around Corvara, breathing the clear air and taking in its surroundings the economy, the euro and politics were far from our thoughts.

It was quiet, too quiet.

Post from: About Abruzzo

Corvara – Beautiful and Quiet. Perhaps Too Quiet!

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I think school children pinned them there as part of St Valentine celebrations.

It wasn’t long after midday and although the sun was shining, the town, and most of Abruzzo was covered in snow.

I wonder if a new set of  hearts are there today.

Post from: About Abruzzo

Paper Hearts – For the day that’s in it

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The video has been around for a year, uploaded to Youtube on 18 Jan 2012.

If you’re in Abruzzo, and you have the chance to visit Rocca Calascio, don’t think about it, just do it.

Post from: About Abruzzo

Postcard from Rocca Calascio by Fabrizio Giovanetti

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This one showcases Loreto Aprutino – an absolutely beautiful town in the Pescara region.

Yes I’m biased! 

Post from: About Abruzzo

L.A. Confidential – Postcard from Loreto Aprutino

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I remember strolling around the forum one early morning in December 2007, with hardly another tourist in sight.

I remember leaving the Vatican Museum having shared its glories with other visitors thinking it didn’t seem too crowded.

And I remember the joy of stumbling upon the Gallaria Doria Pamphilj and thinking that you don’t have to “do” the big attractions to enjoy this rich city.

At 6 am on 6 January 2013 we once again set off for Rome. Not from our usual departure point of Dublin Airport, instead we boarded a bus outside the post office in Loreto Aprutino and after collecting other eager travellers, made our way to the autostrada and on to Piazza San Pietro (St. Peter’s Square).

The local travel agent, FreeTime, run by the wonderful Antonella and Graziano, had organised a day trip leaving early (6 am) and returning late (10 pm) so would-be shoppers could take advantage of the January sales.

We’d little interest in shopping. All we wanted to do was enjoy the journey, stroll around Rome, have a nice lunch and maybe stop a while and watch the world go by.

We had three items we wanted to do on a very loose list. Explore the Galleria Borghese, visit Piazza Navona and have a relaxing, enjoyable lunch.

Just after stepping off the bus we discovered you had to book the Galleria Borghese before visiting so we dropped that from the list. On arriving at Piazza Navona my heart sank and I had no desire to spend too much time there. It gets a lot of attention under normal circumstances but on 6 January, the feast of the Epiphany, there was hardly any spare room. Locals seemed to take it in their stride, even locals with young children and buggies – but after an initial buzz I soon realized it was too crowded for me.

As for lunch – well I may have messed up here also. Not because the restaurant wasn’t good, not because the food wasn’t tasty but because I didn’t do any research first. By the time we were peckish going on hungry I asked a member of the Carabiieri for guidance and we went to “Pasquino” on Piazza Pasquino, just off Piazza Navona.

Near Piazza Navona – are you mad? Well maybe, but the oxtail stew was wonderful and we passed a relaxing two and half hours enjoying the food, the atmosphere and the local banter.

Was it expensive? Yes if compared with Abruzzo prices, but we were in Rome so judging by city prices e.g. Dublin it was value for money.

The next time I’ll read up and try to pick a recommendation from Eleonora Baldwin’s wonderful blog Aglio, Olio and Peperoncino.

Hindsight is 20/20!

So what happened between our arrival at Piazza San Pietro around 09:30 and lunch at around 13:30?

Most of this!

And that included one of most colourful pageants I’ve ever seen.

P was told that the corteo storico folcloristico was a traditional parade which starts from Castel Sant’Angelo and passes along via della Conciliazione to Piazza San Pietro where symbolic gifts are given to the Pope.

Afterwards I read that there were fifteen hundred participants, including musicians, flag bearers, majorettes and horses –  the historic event was started in 1985 to help reintroduce the holiday of the Epiphany on the civil calendar.

It was fantastic.

We weren’t expecting anything like this when we boarded the bus and for me the surprise, the colours, the pageantry and the sheer joy of the participants and spectators made this trip worthwhile.

There is always something to do and see in Rome. Planning helps, but it’s not absolutely necessary.

Post from: About Abruzzo

An Epiphany in Rome

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Normally I’m not a fan of videos of images set to music.

But this is special.

The description of the video is roughly translated as follows:

…This is a tribute to my land, from the mountains to the sea, its people, strong and gentle, able to cry and smile, fall and get up, to curse and bless, I walk the lines of the faces as if they were paths to explore…

It runs for 7 minutes and it’s an absolute joy to watch.

The video was made using photos by Max and Leo Losacco Cameli.

It was published on YouTube on 3 January 2013 with this description in Italian

Volti,luoghi e frammenti di un Abruzzo che malinconicamente è ancora capace di sorridere

Video realizzato con gli scatti di Massimo Losacco e Leone Cameli

Maximum Losacco Photography – https://www.facebook.com/pages/Massimo-Losacco-Photography/128908600545346

Post from: About Abruzzo

A Tribute to the People of Abruzzo

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I’m OK with that and I hope you are too.

I took time off and immersed myself in the festive season.

But I also managed to visit Abruzzo and as usual there wasn’t enough time to see everything and everyone that I would have liked.

Time does fly during the holidays.

But even though the trip was a bit of an eating fest I did get away from my sedentary base to see new places like Pescosansonesco in Pescara.

Can you imagine waking up every day to this view?

I posted this photo up on Facebook yesterday and the reaction was incredible. I guess it’s hard to take a poor photo when Abruzzo gives such stunning material.

I liked the photo so much I put it on my 500px photo page here. I’ll tell you more about what I’m planning with 500px in a later post, but for now just enjoy the photo and the other images, many from Abruzzo, that I’ve posted there.

The most unusual Christmas themed photo I took on this visit wasn’t actually taken in Abruzzo.

P and I took a day trip to Rome on the 6th January, the Feast of the Epiphany, and as we made our way from St. Peter’s Square towards Piazza Navona we turned down a side street to escape the crowds and saw this.

I love it.

To the guy who thought of putting a crib into a dumper scoop and suspending it from scaffolding – you had me smiling for hours and every time I look at the photo I grin again.

And that brings me nicely on to the New Year.

I’m a little late with good wishes but to all my readers, to the creator of the crib and all those who have discovered or have yet to discover Abruzzo – Happy 2013.

Post from: About Abruzzo

A Small Piece of Abruzzo and A Little Bit of Rome

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