A few years ago when Hermès renovated it’s NYC flagship it decided to exile its men’s shop across the street to its very own stand alone shop. This resulted in a first for the storied French luxury brand, the world’s only Hermès men’s shop. Not only is it exclusively menswear, the shop also boasts one of the most lust worthy bespoke programs ever imagined. It’s like a French Savile Row, except the work rooms aren’t downstairs, they’re in Paris.

The bottom two levels offer a normal selection of accessories and sportswear that have made Hermès the most well respected luxury brands in the world. But it’s when you land on the third floor that you discover the truly magical items — shirts, sweaters, suits, leather goods and, of course, ties — that comprise the Hermès bespoke program.

Bespoke options include optional linings made from Hermès scarves. Next level stuff here folks.

When making a bespoke suit, you can choose to line the jacket with the iconic Hermès silk scarves. This process requires going across the street to the Hermès women’s shop to select and purchase the four scarves that it will take to finish the jacket. These scarves are then shipping off to France where the suits are made. This obviously adds significantly to the price of the suit, but if you are getting a bespoke suit made at Hermès this is likely of little concern.

You can add a special message to a custom tie.

The custom shirt program is extensive all of the custom shirts are made in France. Hermès offers a massive selection of collars, cuffs and fabrics, all cut to your exact measurements. There is also an option for a especially design monogram or cipher should you want to take the personalization further. Hermès can make almost anything into a custom monograph: family crest, initials or whatever else you could desire. Apparently, there are some limits to this, profanity being one indulgence in which Hermès must abstain.

With the bespoke program, each shirt fit has its own pattern made specifically to your specifications. To achieve the perfect fit, a muslin mock up is sent from the workshop in Paris to allow for the perfect fit. Any changes that need to be made are done with the muslin and will be reflected in the final shirt. It’s a process more focused on quality than speed or price. If a shirt is needed quickly, Hermès offers ready to wear options in various sizes, or the made to measure program is slightly faster. The bespoke (and this is certainly one of the few legitimate uses of that word) shirts are some of the finest, if not the best, men’s shirts available anywhere in the world.

The procedure for the suits is done in much of the same way. Measurements, fabric selections, style selections, lining decisions, muslins are made, the final suit is crafted and then more fittings. All of this is done between the store in New York and the work shops in Paris. It’s a long process, but one that yields fantastic results.

A bespoke shirt muslin.

Another option is the custom cashmere program, where you can basically design your own sweater. The whole idea at Hermès is to make people the product they want, within reason of course. The way I understand it, the custom program is highly flexible and accommodating — so long as money is not an issue and you have a healthy amount of patience. In this case, it is very apparent that good things do come to those who wait.

Below are sizing options for the MTM suits, which are based off several existing models and styles. A classic fit and a more modern slim fit, all of which are very nice in their own right.

Hermès Men’s | 690 Madison Ave., New York, NY 10065 | (212) 308-3585

And if you haven’t seen Audi’s stunning 2009 documentary Truth in 24, you need to get on that. Audi also just announced Truth in 24 II which centers on the German automaker’s 2011 victory. With subject matter like Le Mans, there’s no way that this new doc will be anything but great.

1954 Part I

1954 Part II

1955

1956 (on board)

1959

1965

1967 Part I

1967 Part II

1967 Part III

1967 Part IV

1967 Part V

badass |ˈbadˌas| informal |ORIGIN 1950s: from the adjective bad + ass. 

adjective: formidable; excellent: this is one badass memo pad.

Aaron Draplin.

Not only is Draplin an ACL Hero and American Icon, he’s also half of the wildly popular “pocket material” empire Field Notes. In a follow-up to Draplin’s other famous videos (what’s the status of that documentary?), the native Michigander spends some time “talkin corn” and showing off some of the farmers promotional memo books that served to spur the creation of Field Notes. The more video of Draplin I see, the more he continues to inspire and entertain. Respect must be paid to him for sticking to what he loves and for making great stuff.

Walking down Route 20 on a rainy day in Western Massachusetts, I spotted many a familiar face. Brimfield, the expansive outdoor antique show, has become it’s own little trade show for vintage lovers; a place to get your flea market fix and maybe even to buy something. The event is a bit of a phenomenon, some of the people at Brimfield are there for work (you’ll notice those people with their two-way radios), and others are there purely on a voyeuristic pursuit. I’m somewhere in between those two categorizations.

“We could all just meet in the city if we could coordinated better.” -Kings County Salvage

Brimfield for me is more about the journey than the destination. At this point I’m not looking for anything specific, I’m really just in-town on the ultimate browsing session. With that said, I was partially unimpressed with what was on offer yesterday, a feeling that also keep me away last year. Though, that’s the nature of flea markets — they are hit or miss. Often, the success lies in one’s quickness and persistence. You have to know good things (and prices) when you see them, and then you need to have the ability to get to stuff before someone else beats you to it. That’s just if you are crazy about it. I like to wander around and not worry about who gets what and if I buy anything. Lord knows I don’t need any more stuff.

The show goes on all week and through the weekend. So if you are into this sort of thing, head out for some vintage fun. At the very least, you’ll get to enjoy a Pilgrim sandwich and see all sorts of interesting people. You might even find a few treasures.

There was a very serious "girls in Barbours" situation going on.

Clothing should be as much about function as it is about style. That’s part of the philosophy behind the bike-commuter friendly label Outlier. Over the past several years the small upstart label has gained a cult following, not just among cyclists, but also by those that appreciate an approach to designing clothes that places equal importance on both looking good and functioning well. This past week I took a trip out to Brooklyn to visit Outlier’s design studio and headquarters to see just how things work at Outlier.

“One well considered object can take the place of many cheaply made ones.”

The company’s loft in Williamsburg is part R&D lab, design center, shipping depot and warehouse all in one. It’s a bright space filled with energy and a sense of purpose. Tyler and Abe both have a strong feeling for the company’s mission and they seem purposeful in their undertaking. As we talked and looked through a rack of current products (and some soon to be released items), the stack of outgoing packages continued to grow and grow as sales for the day added up. According to Outlier, there is strong customer loyalty and the instance of repeat orders is often. As someone that has worn a pair of Outlier pants, this is a statement not difficult to believe.

Outlier founders Tyler Clemens (left) and Abe Burmeister.

Outlier began because Abe Burmeister couldn’t find the perfect pair of pants and Tyler Clemens couldn’t find the perfect shirt. Both wanted clothing that would perform well while commuting via bicycle and would also get them to work looking professional. That called for items that look good, but also incorporate thoughtful design and possess performance capabilities. So Outlier started to produced its own pants that stretch and repel moisture. It also began making shirts that offer range of motion and keep you from looking sweaty once you arrive at work or a meeting. Both initial items were a resounding success because the clothing functioned and looked good doing it. Tyler and Abe discovered that they weren’t the only people looking for clothing without compromise and Outlier was off to a quick start.

After rolling out its first few items, Outlier has maintained a steady pace of releases that are offered immediately through the company’s own website. The brand’s products are also available in brick and mortar retailers like Mission Workshop in San Francisco, Chari & Co. in NYC and West End Bikes in Portland, but the primary model is direct to consumer. This helps keep pricing in-check and allows Outlier the ability to offer the highest quality materials and construction (all of the clothing is made in the U.S. and Canada). Though the products generally have a strong tilt towards the world of cycling, Outlier is suited just as well for use in traveling or everyday life, as it is for man-powered commuting.

So far the company has followed its instincts and is simply making the product that functions well and at the same time looks good. It’s a pretty straight forward approach, and one that has served both Outlier and its customers well.

Water repellent fabrics that stretch and are breathable.

The Outlier shirts look and feel normal, but they won't show moisture.

Soon to launch linen scarves.

Seam sealed 'Storm King' made in Vancouver.

Collaboration bag with Hyperlite Mountain Gear.

It’s amazing how you feel once you take the leap from “commodity shoes” that are basically made from plastic which is designed to look like leather (at least that’s what it seems like), to the real stuff that Rancourt & Co. makes from Horween leathers. My affinity for Rancourt started last year with a pair of ranger mocs that quickly became my go-to shoe. After buying those shoes I was hooked. Over the past year I have also come to know Mike and Kyle Rancourt personally and even spent some time up at their factory in Maine witnessing first hand how they do business.

Wearing the shoes, knowing the people and seeing the process all leads me to confirm that Rancourt makes one of the best, if not the best handsewn shoes in the world. It’s a bold statement, but one I genuinely believe to be true. It was with this appreciation that, a few weeks ago, I ordered some new Rancourt shoes — a pair of ranger mocs with Vibram cristy soles and a Horween shell cordovan (#8) beefroll penny loafer. As you can see from these pictures, they turned out as perfect as expected.

My decision to do a ranger moc with the cristy sole was largely based on the fact that, once worn, these can easily be re-crafted with a different (more traditional) sole. My decision on the cordovan loafer was to buy a shoes that will never ever need to be changed from now until eternity. If timeless was a shoe, then this would be it. You’d be hard pressed to find a better looking penny than Rancourt’s. The quality construction, shape of the last and the Horween cordovan is the stuff dreams are made of. I basically plan on wearing these two pairs of shoes all the time. To know that these shoes will only get better with age (and will inevitably resoled multiple times) makes all the difference. The future is bright my friends.

Todd Snyder is an easy person to like. Being from Iowa, he’s got that grounded middle America perspective on life. Generally friendly and easy going, with a good sense of humor.

Nearly twenty years ago Todd took the plunge and moved to New York to indulge his ambition to work in the clothing business. Along the way he’s proven himself at some distinctly American brands, most notedly Ralph Lauren and then J.Crew. Then three seasons ago he launched his eponymous line to much esteem from buyers, press and consumers. After stopping by his studio this week, I can say with certainty that things are even going to get better.

The collection is very much representative of who Todd is as a person: smart and unpretentious. The line mixes military and vintage in a way that is modern, relevant and fresh. The collection includes everything from knits to tuxedos (pictured below underneath a very handsom winter parka), with the standout element being the range of Southwick-made tailored clothing.

The showroom is an inviting space that, in addition to showcasing the Todd Snyder collection, is filled with a bunch of items that compliment the clothing. This includes shoes from Tricker’s, objects from ACL fav Schoolhouse Electric, accessories from Maxx & Unicorn, blankets from Minnesota’s Faribault Woolen Mills and a selection of really nice hats from Bates. These other brand items, many of which are made special for Todd Snyder, are wholesaled alongside everything else to complement the regular collection. The line does a good job of updating staple clothing to incorporate good fabrics and plays around with classic shapes (note the fishtail shearling below). To me, the Todd Snyder collection is real clothes for real guys, pure and simple.

Todd found this Southwick label in the company's archive and helped to resurrect it.

Made in USA ties from Southwick.

The AW12 collection took inspiration from these images by Brassai.

Not mad at this selvage khaki.

Times have changed, but people have always loved to gawk at a car crash. The Boston Public Library has hundreds of opportunities to rubberneck wrecks from the 1930s. Some of the most interesting below. Please take note the painful lack of seat belts as displayed on the windshields. Also, check out the work wear on the bystanders. Be safe out there.

Go into any bike shop in the U.S. and you will likely find the same three or four big brands that dominate the retail landscape. There’s not necessarily anything wrong with buying a bike from any of those big companies, but it’s important to remember that there is an “independently made” alternative. Portland, Oregon based component maker Chris King’s line of Cielo bicycles are a worthy alternative and a good place to trade your hard earned dollars for a good looking and well made bicycle.

The Cielo Sportif Classic, which is pictured here, is high on my list of things that I need to own. In an age of carbon fiber, the Sportif Classic is designed with the nostalgia of steel framed road bikes of the 1970′s and 1980′s. That steel frame means it is going to be heavier than a lot of bikes out there, but it will also mean that the ride is going to be comfortable and enjoyable. All that said, the bike is great looking and made right here in the United States. The Sportif Classic incorporates many of the quality US-made components that, over the past three decades, have made Chris King such a well regarded manufacturer. The Cielo quality also extends to the styling —each bike is painted entirely in-house with a low VOC (non-toxic) liquid paint without use of any decals, and each detail is masked and painted by hand.

Big company versus independent raises the question: is it worth spending more on higher quality goods that are manufactured transparently? To me, yes it is. I’d rather buy less, but buy better. Does this mean that a similar bike made in Taiwan is less fun to ride or isn’t as good looking? No. I’m reminded of a saying that used to get tossed around the car dealership I worked at in high school: “There’s an ass for every seat.” In my case, I’d rather buy something (even if it costs more) that is made by the little guy who knows how to make great product, not just because of a strong market position and a mastering of economies of scale. But there is also a guy out there who just wants a cheap bike and doesn’t care. That doesn’t necessarily make me better and him worse, it just makes us different. But I have to think that a world with a focus on quality is better than the alternative.

Chris King says it best on its website: “We are fiercely independent, incorruptible by passing trends or fads. Careful consideration drives our actions. We practice patience with new product and process introductions. We recognize our efforts are just a few points in a universal continuum. We are underpinned by quality craftsmanship and premium material selection. Uncompromising fit and finish standards support our lasting brand appreciation.”