A Journey Through Guatemala

Sea Turtles Nesting Along the Shoreline in Monterrico

noreply@blogger.com (Erin Deleon-Ahumada) — Tue, 10 Aug 2010 17:32:00 +0000

In last week’s post we learned about the mangrove forest in the Chiquimulilla Channel, which is part of the Monterrico-Hawaii Nature Reserve administered by the Center for Conservationist Studies. Today, I want you to join me to learn about some of the most fascinating creatures in the world: sea turtles.

Along the shoreline in the Pacific Ocean and throughout different countries, from times that no one can remember, year after year, several species of sea turtles return to the same place to lay their eggs in an amazing cycle of life, a cycle that is interrupted and threatened mainly by irresponsible human actions.

The good news are that there are those who care enough and not just understand the importance to preserve these wildlife cycles of life but most important, they are true hands-on heroes and guardians of the two largest hatchery projects:

Tortugario Monterrico, managed by the Center for Conservationist Studies and

Hawaii Park, located 8 kilometers east of Monterrico, where the Wildlife and Conservation Association, has a turtle, crocodile, and mangrove conservation project.

These hatcheries were born primarily as an attempt to counteract threats to Leather-back (also known as baula) and Olive ridley (also known as parlama) turtle populations by over-harvesting by local egg collectors.

Despite their endangered status, virtually all sea turtle nests in Guatemala are poached and the eggs sold as a supposed aphrodisiac; clearly not a necessity in the country since the population growth rate is of nearly 3%.

Both reserves, Monterrico and Hawaii are prime nesting sites for sea turtles on Guatemala’s Pacific seaboard, so chances are that if you are visiting the area between June and December, you might have the opportunity to witness either a big Leather-back or the smaller Olive ridley coming ashore to lay its eggs or watch baby sea turtles making their maiden voyage out to sea.

To simulate the emergence of the turtles from the nest, they are placed high up on the beach to let them scatter as they head towards the whiteness of the waves. As they scramble across the beach, they are collecting information that will enable them to come back to the very same beach spot in eight years time.

No one knows exactly what happens during this imprinting process, maybe they pick up the texture and composition of the sand, the smells on the beach, and the magnetic current which they use to navigate the oceans. But that two minutes will enable them to come back here when they are grown and lay on this exact same stretch of beach.

You can watch them scramble into the waves and then wait for a sufficiently powerful one to carry them off into the depths. Only very few will survive their passage through the breakers and predators. But a few are better than none.

The Mangrove Forest Ecosystem Along the Chiquimulilla Channel

noreply@blogger.com (Erin Deleon-Ahumada) — Tue, 03 Aug 2010 21:03:00 +0000

This approximately 150 kilometers long natural channel, better known as Canal de Chiquimulilla, runs paralel to the Pacific Ocean shoreline and goes from the municipality La Gomera in Escuintla, across the Santa Rosa department, to the Jutiapa department, right on the border with the neighbor country, El Salvador.

Because of its length, the channel could be considered as the largest biodiversity container in Guatemala’s Pacific area.

The area located in Monterrico was declared a protected reserve in 1977, and since then, it has been a center for conservationist studies. The protected reserve includes the estuary zone, where the mangrove forest prevails, and several rivers and lagoons that constantly change the water salinity.

The main purpose of the reserve is to protect the wild diversity of fauna and flora from deforestation, water contamination, and hunting. Some of the most endangered fauna species are the Crocodilus fuscus (caiman), the Iguana iguana (green iguana), the Dermochelys coriacea (leather-back turtle, also known as baula), the Lepidochelys olivacea (Olive ridley turtle, also known as Pacific ridley and parlama blanca), and the Chelonia agassizii or Chelonia Sp (also known as parlama negra).

As for the flora, it has been noted that the main composition is based on trees, vines, water grasses, and epiphytes. The most endangered are the three species of mangrove: Rizophora mangle (red), Laguncularia racemosa (white), and Avicennia germinans (black). Still common in the area are botoncillo, guachimol, pachira, thypha, nymphaea, luffa, neptunia, among others.

The aquatic vegetation in the channel depends on the rainy climate cycle, which starts in June. During this cycle, the rivers Maria Linda, Rio Hondo, and Coyolate among others, feed the channel and reduce the water salinity, allowing the growth of aquatic plants with low salinity tolerance.

From June to November, the aquatic vegetation provides refuge and food for several animals. The flowers of the Nymphaea and Eichornia attract lots of insects, which constitute food for fish, amphibious, reptiles, and birds. The large extension of Thypha (reed, also known as tul) provides refuge to crocodiles and is the turtles' main source of food. According to the local guides, turtles like to rummage around the base of the plants in search for tuber roots, rich in starches.

At the end of December, the water flow entering from the sea becomes stronger and the low salinity tolerant vegetation dies leaving in its place almost nothing but the mangrove forest, showing its fullest splendor!

Beyond the Strong Waves, World-Class Sport Fishing

noreply@blogger.com (Erin Deleon-Ahumada) — Fri, 09 Jul 2010 17:08:00 +0000

Guatemala has gained an international reputation as having one of the highest concentrations of bill-fish, in particular Pacific Sailfish, all year round. At Puerto Quetzal, strong west-to-east currents come down from Mexico and meet with east-to-west currents from the coast of El Salvador. Together, these currents create an enormous, natural occurring eddy, rich in bait and pelagic fish making it a perfect spot to find sailfish, marlin, mahi-mahi (dorado) and many other species in tremendous numbers, and when I say tremendous, it is not an exaggeration and the best part is that the most important species are strictly protected and even the hooks are regulated.

With a year round daily catch and release rate averaging 15-20 sailfish, any fishing trip in Guatemala's Pacific Coast will become a lifetime experience. Scientists who have studied the large numbers of sailfish off the coast of Guatemala have concluded that this might be the largest breeding ground for Pacific Sailfish in the world.

Until now, Guatemala holds both the conventional and fly fishing records with most sailfish released in one day. Year after year Guatemala has consistent numbers of rises, bites and releases, all recorded and reported, backed up with testimonials from happy anglers that agree that Guatemala is certainly the Sailfish Capital of the World.

Any brief search over the Internet, in fishing magazines, cable or TV fishing shows and newspaper columns will provide figures that say pretty much the same thing: catches of over 25 sailfish per day are common, double and triple hookups are common, on average between 20 and 40 sailfish are caught and released per boat, per day and on extraordinary days, that number easily reaches the one hundred; fishing is good year round, etc. Local boat captains with conservative estimates affirm that between 1,000 and 1,400 sailfish are caught and released, per boat, per year, using conventional tackle and bait.

Guatemala: The saltwater fly-fishing destination at its best!

Passing by Guatemala on a Cruise: Puerto Quetzal

noreply@blogger.com (Erin Deleon-Ahumada) — Tue, 06 Jul 2010 17:41:00 +0000

Puerto Quetzal is Guatemala's largest Pacific Ocean port and it is important for both, cargo traffic and as a stop-off point for cruise liners. And to those passing by Guatemala on board a cruise, let me tell that sometimes our eyes limit what we see. In the case of Puerto Quetzal this might be the situation.

Standing on the railing of a cruise ship looking out over the landscape beyond the port, leaves someone with the feeling that it's time to save our money for an excursion in another port. And for the most part that's what everyone does. That is a shame because you will be missing out on "what's over the next hill". And over the next hill is an erupting volcano, a 400 year old city, beautiful architecture, scenery, gardens and ancient ruins of civilizations long gone.

All that is required to see all of this is a sense of adventure and losing that expectation that you have from your own home town. Taking that step on the gangway to move forward, to venture out, to lose oneself in another country and culture. To experience someplace other than where you live. So open the box and be surprised. You may like it.

There are several options to choose from, but to give you an idea I selected a day tour to one of my favorite places in the country, Antigua Guatemala, the colonial capital, so let me describe how it could be.

By tour bus it's an hour and a half scenic drive by coffee plantations, sugar cane fields and rising volcanoes. This charming town, located 4,500 feet above sea level, is also a UNESCO World Heritage site famous for both its colorful Spanish Mudejar-influenced Baroque architecture and its many ruins of colonial churches. While relaxing around Antigua's popular Parque Central, visitors are afforded a view of many notable architectural landmarks as well as the spectacular natural beauty of the three major volcanoes that tower over the city's low skyline.

Just up the street from the park, a short 10 minute walk is the next place you don't want to miss, Casa Santo Domingo. Once a convent devoted to the followers of the Grand Order of Santo Domingo de Guzman, its now a beautiful hotel set among the ruins. Beautiful arches covered in flowering vines, gardens that surround fountains of cool water greet you as you move around the property. Make sure you have plenty of space on your digital camera. It's absolutely beautiful. You may even want to come back for an extended stay.

Until now, you've been walking for a bit and it's probably time for a break. Head down to the Jade factory, which is located just a few minutes walk from Casa Santo Domingo. The factory is kind of your welcome and departure center for Antigua when visiting the city from a cruise. A great staff is ready to greet you as you get off the bus and the factory is always in full swing to watch the fine craftsmanship of all the pieces. Buses will let you off and pick you up here.

By now you've finished your tour of Antigua Guatemala and have headed back to the ship. I hope you enjoyed yourself and experienced the beauty and culture of this part of Guatemala.

Monte Alto Culture: The Key to Understand Guatemala's Ancient History?

noreply@blogger.com (Erin Deleon-Ahumada) — Fri, 02 Jul 2010 20:49:00 +0000

As we have learned in our journey, during a trip to Guatemala, the heart of Mesoamerica, visitors will discover a rich, sometimes violent, but always fascinating cultural history.

The cultural ancient history of Mesoamerica can be divided into three periods: The Pre-Classic from 2000 BC to 250 AD, (Early: 2000 BC to 800 BC, Middle: 800 to 400 BC, and Late 400 BC to 250 AD), Classic from 250 to 900 AD, (Early 250 to 550 AD, Middle from 550 to 700 AD and Late 700 to 900 AD), and Post Classic from 900 to 1500 AD, (Early 900 to 1200 AD, and Late 1200 to 1500 AD).

The first proof of human settlers in Guatemala dates at least as far back as 10,000 BC, although there is some evidence that put this date at 18,000 BC. The evidence includes obsidian arrowheads uncovered at various archeological sites.

The archaeological evidence concludes that early Guatemalan settlers were hunters and gatherers, but pollen samples from Peten and the Pacific coast indicate that corn cultivation was developed by 3,500 BC. The earliest Maya civilizations began to emerge in the highlands of Guatemala by as early as 2,000 BC.

By 2,500 BC, small settlements were developing in Guatemala’s Pacific lowlands, including such places as Tilapa, La Blanca, Ocós, El Mesak, and Ujuxte, where the oldest and beautifully designed ceramic pottery from Guatemala has been found. A heavy concentration of pottery on the Pacific coast has been documented dating from 2,000 BC.

Recent excavations suggest that the Highlands were a geographic and temporal bridge between Early Pre-classic villages of the Pacific coast and later Peten lowlands cities. There are at least 5,000 archaeological sites in Guatemala, 3,000 of them in Peten alone.

In Monte Alto near the municipality of La Democracia, Escuintla, giant stone heads and Potbellies (called Barrigones in Spanish) dating from 1800 BC, have been found. These are ascribed to the Pre-Olmec Monte Alto Culture, and some scholars suggest the Olmec Culture originated in this area of the Pacific Lowlands. However, it has also been argued that the only connection between these statues and the later Olmec heads is their size. Nonetheless, it is likely the Monte Alto Culture was the first complex culture of Mesoamerica, and predecessor of all other cultures of the region. In Guatemala, there are some sites with unmistakable Olmec style, such as Tak'alik Ab'aj, in Retalhuleu, which is the only ancient city in the Americas with both, Olmec and Mayan features.

Dr. Richard Hansen, the director of the archaeological project of El Mirador Basin in northern Peten, believes the Maya at that location developed the first true political state in America, (The Kan Kingdom), around 1,500 BC. Further, he disputes the common belief that the Olmec were the mother culture in Mesoamerica. Due to recent findings at El Mirador Basin, Hansen suggests that the Olmec and Maya cultures developed separately, and then merged in some areas, such as Tak'alik Ab'aj on the Pacific Lowlands. There is no evidence yet to link the Pre-classic Maya from Peten and those from the Pacific coast, but Dr. Hansen believes they had cultural and economical links.

It is too bad that many questions will remain unanswered since countless pieces have been either destroyed or stolen throughout the last centuries and there are many that, before protection laws were issued, were sent to foreign countries where they still are featured in museums.

Santa Lucia Cotzumalguapa: Home to Ancient Civilizations

noreply@blogger.com (Erin Deleon-Ahumada) — Thu, 01 Jul 2010 22:44:00 +0000

Santa Lucia Cotzumalguapa is an important archaeological zone of Guatemala, located in the department of Escuintla, at the foot of the Pacific volcanic range. Judging from current evidence, this area experienced an early development going back at least to the end of the Early Pre-Classic period (800 BC). By the Late Pre-Classic period, the region was the settlement for an important kingdom. The Stela 1 from El Baul has one of the earliest hieroglyphic inscriptions found in Meso-America, with the earliest legible date known in the modern territory of Guatemala, going back to the year 37 AC.

The region experienced an extraordinary development during the Late Classic period, between years 500 and 1000 AC. At this time, Santa Lucia Cotzumalguapa became one of the largest cities in Southern Meso-America, a major center of political power and cultural innovation.

Research has shown that the city covered approximately ten square kilometers, and included two major architectural compounds, which correspond to the sites known as El Baul and Bilbao.

Both are large platforms that sustain colossal compounds, and possess the major concentrations of monumental sculptures. A third important compound, known as El Castillo, also formed part of this urban center, and may have been the main plaza of this great city. A system of causeways and bridges joined together these three compounds with each other and with other sectors of the city.

The inhabitants of this area developed an original artistic style and a writing system of their own, which found expression in a large corpus of monumental sculptures. These include rock carvings, stone stelas, altars, gigantic heads, and three-dimensional sculptures, as well as a variety of architectural sculptures such as carved stairs, pillars and pavement stones.

There are also numerous portable sculptures. Characteristic of the Cotzumalguapa style is an extraordinary degree of realism in the representation of human figures, which in many cases may be considered as individual portraits, possibly representing kings and nobles. In many cases, these individuals appear participating in complex scenes, where they interact with other human characters or with supernatural beings. Sacrificial scenes are frequent.

Distinctive elements of the Cotzumalguapa style include speech scrolls shaped as vines with a variety of flowers and fruits. Hieroglyphic signs usually are inscribed in circular shapes, but they may also acquire complex animated forms.

Cotzumalguapa was most likely the seat of a powerful state, which exerted political control over a vast region of the Pacific coast. The diffusion of the sculptural style provides a measure of the geographic extension of Cotzumalguapa influence. The style is found along a 200 kilometer stretch of the Pacific coast, from the department of Suchitepequez to the modern border between Guatemala and El Salvador. It also had strong presence in some regions of the Central and Eastern Highlands, particularly in the region of what we know today as Antigua Guatemala. Some elements of the style are perceptible in sculptures from various sites located in Chimaltenango and along the Motagua river valley.

San Vicente Pacaya and the Volcano

noreply@blogger.com (Erin Deleon-Ahumada) — Wed, 30 Jun 2010 23:06:00 +0000

Due to the tragic incidents occurred just a month ago, I had to think more than twice about including the San Vicente Pacaya municipality in today's post. To be honest, after the tremendous explosion of the Pacaya Volcano and just a couple of days after that, the flooding caused by the heavy rains poured during the Agatha Storm over the central valley still covered with a thick layer of volcanic residues, made me wonder if I should just skip talking about the Pacaya area. Not knowing how damaged is the town, the villages nearby, and the surrounding natural attractions, including the Caldera Lagoon, made me feel unconfortable about today's post. Not withstanding my reservations and overcoming my hesitation, I decided to feature Pacaya.

I wouldn't like to seem disrespectful and sincerely hope that everything is returning to normal for the people in the area, my best wishes are with them for speedy recovery.

This recovery brings me back to the possibilities that many of Guatemala's regions could benefit from tourism. I will keep stating that tourism is a great way to improve everybody's lives: while travelers enjoy and learn, locals promote and sell their products or services.

Even after last month's explosion, the Pacaya Volcano National Park continues to be the municipality's main tourist attraction. The volcano is actually a complex of several active volcanoes, only 30 kilometers east of Guatemala City.

For years, it has been a popular volcano to climb because I know for a fact that it wasn't too difficult and, on sunny days, the views are stunning. Again, I don't know the current conditions and am not even sure that the park is open for climbing excursions.

The Pacaya volcano is part of the Central American Volcanic Arc, a chain of volcanoes stretching from the northwest to the southeast along the Pacific coast of Central America, formed by the Cocos Tectonic Plate beneath the Caribbean Plate. The volcano lies on the southern edge of a sizable volcanic caldera formed in the Pleistocene age which contains Lago de Amatitlan.

After the last caldera-forming eruption 23,000 years ago, several smaller vents within and around the caldera have seen eruptive activity. Pacaya is the largest post-caldera volcano, and has been one of Central America's most active volcanoes over the last 500 years.

About 1,100 years ago, the volcano's edifice collapsed, causing a huge landslide. Deposits from the landslide traveled about 25 kilometers (16 mi) from the volcano down to the Pacific coastal plain. The landslide left a large crater, within which the current active cone has grown. The presence of a magma chamber at shallow depths beneath the volcano means that distortion of the cone leading to instability and future landslides remains a hazard to the surrounding areas and considering what happened a month ago, it would be expected that those towns are relocated to safer areas, after all, there is nothing we can do against the forces of nature.

Pa'laq ja' -The Standing Water-

noreply@blogger.com (Erin Deleon-Ahumada) — Tue, 29 Jun 2010 20:35:00 +0000

Pa'laq ja' is the land of the Maya Poqomam descendants and remains as one of the few municipalities in the lowlands where ancient traditions are still observed, and the only one in Escuintla where women wear the typical costume. This is Palin.

The name in Poqomam that translates as "standing water", is a reference of the town's location: right on the slopes of the Agua Volcano. The current name, Palin, is a Nahuatl-origin voice that translates as "place of strong winds" and is a reference of the windy phenomenon that occurs from November to February.

The area is surrounded by intense volcanic activity, so there are several places with thermal and sulfurous springs and swimming pools.

One of the main features of Palin that I remember the most, is the enormous Ceiba Pentandra tree (Guatemala's national tree) in the center of the central plaza, which according to the records, was planted during the founding of the town on July 30, 1535.

Before the new toll highway was built, Palin was a stop in the route to El Puerto (the beach). That stop had the purpose to buy fresh produce and fruits whose aromas seemed to be floating under the ceiba shade. Right now, I am thinking of the big, almost flat baskets full of anacates displayed over bright green banana leaves (anacates are yellow umbrella-like mushrooms, related to the better known chanterelles)... What a treat! A chunky and simple anacates sauce poured over a tenderloin steak is like heaven.

Since the opening of the toll highway, Palin is no longer a regular stop for people going to El Puerto and the market is no longer open-air under the ceiba; even though, Palin continues to be an interesting place to visit.

Escuintla: Guatemalan Lowlands Heart

noreply@blogger.com (Erin Deleon-Ahumada) — Tue, 29 Jun 2010 00:44:00 +0000

Welcome to a new department in the lowlands: Escuintla. A name that brings me joyful memories from times spent with my family and friends. A name that always makes me think of that candid image of the Resplendent Quetzal painted over the rocks on the road somewhere close to Palin, one of Escuintla's municipalities, which has been there since I can remember...

The innumerable rivers crossing this department contribute to the fertility of its soils; and the beautiful mangroves bordering its coast, have been declared an ecological reserve zone. It is one of the most active tourist sites in the country and a favorite for city dwellers many of whom own beach-side vacation villas.

Its current economic prosperity comes from the exploitation of large extensions of land in the cultivation of sugar cane and livestock ranches. The modern Puerto Quetzal and its intense activity also contributes to the prosperity of this Department.

On average, the altitude in Escuintla is 350 meters above sea level and it bounds to the north with the departments of Chimaltenango, Sacatepequez, and Guatemala; to the east with Santa Rosa; to the west with Suchitepequez; and to the south with the Pacific Ocean. This department is divided into 13 municipalities, and its capital is also named Escuintla.

The slopes of the Volcanic Chain are humid and the moist clouds provide a constant rain that makes the area a true tropical rain forest, home to micos (Callitrichidae -synonym Hapalidae- also known as New World monkeys), ocelots, weasels, and other species.

The extensive seashore is composed of gray sands of volcanic origin, interrupted only by the mangrove forests and channels which provide an excellent habitat to fiddler crabs, pelicans, seagulls, beach scavengers, and robust stolon grasses..

Other interesting attractions in this area are: the Guacalate River Canyon, the Pacaya Volcano, the caverns and waterfalls of San Pedro Martir, and the archaeological sites El Baul, Bilbao, and El Castillo.

The well maintained road network makes traveling through and across Escuintla very easy. Some of the most important roads are: Hwy CA-9 (the Inter Oceanic Road from south to north) and Hwy CA-2 (the Pacific Road from west to east). These and several secondary roads are located along the route we will follow in the days to come when we will explore this rich, diverse, and fun-filled department.

All the images in today's post are from galasdeguatemala.com, used with authorization.

Festivals and Celebrations: Carnival in Mazatenango

noreply@blogger.com (Erin Deleon-Ahumada) — Fri, 25 Jun 2010 21:21:00 +0000

Without question, throughout Guatemala the biggest celebration of the year occurs during Holy Week when every town and village hosts elaborate processions where images of the saints are paraded through the streets and accompanied by musicians playing traditional songs of both Maya and European origin.

In many places, elaborate carpets, painstakingly constructed of colored sawdust and fragrant flowers, cover the major avenues only to be destroyed by the passing parade.

Carnival is also among the important celebrations and becomes a massive party in places like Mazatenango, where it is really a big deal!

Each municipality and village also has their own yearly festival, usually held on the day of their patron saint, when all the residents, dressed up in their finest clothing, converge upon the plaza where games, exotic foods, music and the crowning of the new queen all contribute to making the ocassion special.

The Beaches at Suchitepequez: Unexploited Potential

noreply@blogger.com (Erin Deleon-Ahumada) — Thu, 24 Jun 2010 23:18:00 +0000

Thanks to several river mouths along the coastal line, Suchitepequez is probably the department with more beautiful beaches in Guatemala. The tide is less impetuous and the sand is finer and lighter.

I would like to be able to share with you interesting and valuable information about other regions in Suchitepequez, but this time, I found myself without so much to say.

Since the whole area has not been developed yet in terms of tourism, and while living in Guatemala, most of the time I only passed through Mazatenango on my way to some other places, my personal experiences there, are limited. So,instead of writing, today, I invite you to take a look at these images. I hope they motivate us enough for all of us to visit this pristine region real soon.

The Mountainous Side of Suchitepequez: Santa Barbara and Los Andes Reserve

noreply@blogger.com (Erin Deleon-Ahumada) — Wed, 23 Jun 2010 19:53:00 +0000

This is the municipality of Santa Barbara and I don't exaggerate when I say that what we are going to discover today is a hidden treasure.

Los Andes, a Private Nature Reserve, located on the western chain of Guatemala’s volcanoes, is among the first cloud forests dedicated to the protection of the Resplendent Quetzal (Pharomachrus mocinno), whose courtship and nesting activities attract birdwatchers from around the world to the Reserve.

Los Andes is also home to the rare cabanis tanager (Tangara cabanisi). This small, blue, exquisite bird’s habitat is shared by hundreds of local and migrating species, including a host of hummingbirds, orioles, flycatchers, trogons and motmots.

The Reserve works closely with the residents to promote self sufficiency, health and education and the most important accomplishment is that they are being successful with a method that goes from the traditional education of repetition to an education of understanding, which is clearly reflected in the school’s slogan “Learn, achieve and share”.

The unique biodiversity of the Reserve, including wildlife, has tremendous potential for Eco-tourism and local residents are being trained as guides to provide them with an alternate source of income, and that is why at Los Andes we can enjoy a variety of activities including bird-watching, explorations through the coffee and tea certified sustainable plantations, the botanical garden, and through the cloud forest to admire more than 50 species of exquisite orchids. For the adventurous, Los Andes Reserve also offers a river adventure and hikes to the top of the beautiful Volcano Atitlan.

The core of Los Andes, of course, is The Quetzal Project, an initiative started by Dr. Anne LaBastille back in 1968, when she first visited Los Andes and worked on a Quetzal research project. The result of this was an article published in the January 1969 edition of National Geographic. She also created, in 1972, the first Association in Guatemala dedicated to the conservation of this magnificent bird, making Los Andes the first protected area officially declared in Guatemala for the protection of the Quetzal.
Artificial nest boxes were designed by Dr. LaBastille in an attempt to reduce the mortality of nesting quetzals, whose nest trees and stumps often fall down. The boxes were placed in the cloud forest in safe locations and eventually were accepted and used by a few birds, a method that is still in use today! This elusive bird can be better observed during two distinctive seasons, from November to January and from April to June, which is the nesting season.
Los Andes Nature Reserve certainly is an area in which agricultural production, human development and environmental conservation are carried out in a harmonious and sustainable manner, for the well being of present and future generations.

Recommended Reading:

Assignment: Wildlife

A detail of Dr. LaBastille work in Guatemala and other parts of Central and South America.

Along the Coastal Road CA-2: Suchitepequez

noreply@blogger.com (Erin Deleon-Ahumada) — Mon, 21 Jun 2010 15:01:00 +0000

As you may have noticed, our journey through the coastal plains is taking us from West to East, in a big loop that eventually will take us back to Guatemala City. Our first encounter with the Pacific Ocean was at the Manchon Guamuchal biological reserve, which defined the end of the Highlands and the starting point of the Lowlands.

During the past days, we explored some of the Retalhuleu's attractions and today, we are going to start our journey through the department of Suchitepequez, an indigenous voice that translates as Flowers Hill (I couldn't find the true origin of the name because in addition to Spanish, the Maya origin languages K'iche, Tz'utujil, and Cak'chikel are spoken in this department).

The capital city of this department is Mazatenango, which represents the general conditions of the area: prosperous, modern, self sufficient, and joyful, is better known among Guatemalans for the celebration of Carnaval (Mardi Grass-like celebration), one whole week before the lent season.

To be honest, the commercial activities are so important for the inhabitants that they have shown very little interest in the natural wealthiness of this department, which by the way, is extraordinarily rich: from tranquil rivers and ponds to the impetuous Pacific Ocean.

For instance, the municipalities of Patulul and San Juan Bautista have abundant creeks and pools along the Madre Vieja River basin, while the municipalities of Santa Barbara, Chicacao, and San Miguel Panan have similar attractions along the Nahualate River.

Almost every one of the Suchitepequez municipalities have natural attractions, and with a few exceptions, most of them don't have the appropriate infrastructure to be considered tourist places, especially for the foreign visitor.Nevertheless, during the next days we will explore the surroundings to discover some of these pristine spots through small towns, rivers, mountains and along the 18 kilometers of fine gray sand beaches. I hope you will join us in this new adventure.

In case you didn't notice, our good friend Maynor Mijangos from galasdeguatemala.com is back. Thank you Maynor for the beautiful images.

Champerico: A Picturesque Town on the Pacific Shores

noreply@blogger.com (Erin Deleon-Ahumada) — Fri, 18 Jun 2010 20:28:00 +0000

Guatemala is not exactly known for its sandy, oceanside stretches. Void of ritzy, glamourous beaches where resorts and beach facilities hog the scene, Guatemala instead maintains coastal stretches that give visitors the real experience.

When you think of it, that’s the beauty of a place like Champerico and some other beach areas nearby. Plenty of beaches around the world offer all kinds of amenities and fanfare, but sometimes it’s nice to find a place with more original character. Guatemala’s Pacific Coast is a relaxing place, ideal for escaping the cities and highlands for a bit.

In general, Guatemala's beaches are mostly about soaking up some rays and letting the crashing waves soothe your inner soul. Due to the volcanic nature of Guatemala, all the beach areas have dark sand, ranging in colors from brownish to black, which can heat up pretty quickly in the daytime sun.

From the beginning to the end, Guatemala's Pacific coast is almost a uniform long beach stretch, separated only for the mouth of the many rivers that end at the Pacific Ocean. Not a single bay! and that is why the tide is really strong with equally strong undertows, so wading out much farther than knee-deep is something everybody should consider twice, including the accomplished swimmers. On the other hand, being the beach quite wide, it is easy to enjoy long, languid walks.

So, as a beach destination, Guatemala might not be appealing for everybody, especially for those who think of the beach as white powder-like sand, blue crystal-clear water, and soft whispering-like waves...

Champerico and other beach-front villages nearby, are fishermen settlements, which means that we will enjoy fresh and delicious seafood, caught, cooked and served by locals, who after all, are the best part of our journey: kind, warm, smiley, eager to assist you in any way, making sure that your experience will be another memorable excursion.

Reu: The Capital of the Department of Retalhuleu

noreply@blogger.com (Erin Deleon-Ahumada) — Thu, 17 Jun 2010 20:50:00 +0000

Between diminutives, nicknames, similar names and even names that are exactly like others, remembering the names of the more than 300 municipalities throughout Guatemala is quite challenging-ish... In this case, Retalhuleu is the name of the Department and its capital city; to differentiate one from another, locals call Retalhuleu's capital: Reu. And to enter Reu we are going to pass through a nice long boulevard flanked by tall coconut palms that make us realize how close to the Pacific Ocean we are.

We could say that Reu is by far the most gorgeous city in the Southern Coast region. Urbanistically speaking, it was well planned and designed and locals are so proud of what they have accomplished, that their efforts can be appreciated almost wherever you go.

Reu and its people have that exuberant personality so typical in the tropical close-to-the-beaches towns: from good mood, joyful expressions, loud music, to a sense of laid-back attitude.

Since it is hot outside, I propose a visit to the Archeology and Ethnology Museum where we will admire many of the ancient and invaluable pieces recovered from the excavations in Tak'alik Ab'aj and the surroundings.

In addition to the historic treasures, in the second floor of this museum we will find an extraordinary collection of photographs that show the different development stages of Retalhuleu throughout the years.

A visit to the Saint Anthony Church is worthy as well. The architecture is beautiful and even though the original retablo is not there anymore, the place is well preserved. The best part is that we can go upstairs to the bell tower from where we will contemplate magnificent views of the city and in the horizon, the Pacific Ocean.

At the end of the evening, when the sun is descending and the fresh coastal breeze can be felt, we will see how the streets seem to be busier and cheerful, as a prelude to our trip to the beach tomorrow...

Digging Into the Past: A Maya Royal Tomb

noreply@blogger.com (Erin Deleon-Ahumada) — Wed, 16 Jun 2010 20:48:00 +0000

Today's story is based on the field notes from photographer Kenneth Garrett while covering an important archaeology discovery in Tak'alik Ab'aj in 2004. The best, he said, "for the 20 years I've worked in the Maya world I've wanted to include Takalik Abaj in a story. Unfortunately, it never quite fit into what I was doing. But with the site representing a thousand years of Olmec and Maya civilization—the dawn of the Maya era—and [Guatemalan] archaeologist Christa Schieber de Lavarreda's discovery of one of the earliest Maya king's burials, we had all the elements in place to focus on the area."

Kenneth Garrett also said that the worst was when he left the place because "I knew we didn't have space to develop a bigger story, but the worst part was leaving before I could explore other things related to Takalik Abaj. It would have been good to stay longer and learn more about the trade routes into the highlands and along the Pacific. I would like to have learned how the Maya power centers moved into the lowlands, making Takalik Abaj less important after it had been a great commercial and religious center. But we wanted to keep the story focused on the site inside the protected national park.

Until now, the excavation continues and the archaeologists team continues to find amazing remnants of this equally amazing civilization.

So, with that being said, here are Mr. Garrett's notes and some of the wonderful images he captured during the process back in 2004.

Foreman Marvin Castillo beholds a freshly unearthed staircase at Takalik Abaj, an ancient Maya city in southwestern Guatemala, as excavator Pedro Gonzalez looks on. Stairways carried residents up and down the slopes at this urban center, built more than 2,000 years ago on ten natural terraces in the country's piedmont region. The city's early Maya phase ended about A.D. 200. "Takalik Abaj became important again long after its decline," says project co-leader Christa Schieber de Lavarreda. "People here continually remodeled buildings and relocated stone monuments sculpted in former times, a practice that continued until A.D. 1000. "

Centuries ago a Maya artisan carved a stela, or stone monument, with a highly stylized rendering of a serpent ascending from the water to the sky—a powerful image in Maya mythology. "The hallucinatory visions central to Maya ritual were symbolized visually by a rearing snake," wrote epigrapher Linda Schele. More than 270 monuments, largely from the Maya and earlier Olmec civilization, dot the landscape at Takalik Abaj, where a team recently discovered the unlooted grave of an early Maya king deep inside a ceremonial building.

Schieber stoops to drink from an aqueduct that delivers fresh water from the site's higher terraces to the north. Most of the building erected by the early Maya to sanctify the water system have disappeared, though the network of aqueducts still provides potable water to the nearby village of El Asintal. The project's team, led by archaeologists Schieber and Miguel Orrego Corzo, found this section in a small ravine obscured by a thick cover of subtropical vegetation and named the spot El Escondite, or "the hidden place."

The original article was published in National Geographic in May, 2004; if you are interested, there is an excerpt available in the magazine's Website.

Tak'alik' Ab'aj: Archaeological and Natural Treasure

noreply@blogger.com (Erin Deleon-Ahumada) — Tue, 15 Jun 2010 20:34:00 +0000

The millenarian history of Tak'alik Ab'aj is one of the most fascinating of Mesoamerica. The traces of the remarkable events that occurred at this site and how they affected the evolution of the cultures throughout the region have been found by the archaeologists in the remains of the materials, artifacts, monuments, and structures left by the early inhabitants: from massive monuments sculpted in stone, sacred buildings made of clay and faced with cobbles, ceramic vessels to stone and obsidian tools.

Even though only a very small portion (less than 10%) of the site has been excavated, the study of what has been found reflects the changes in styles and technology, and some of the skills and intellectual richness of the ancient architects and artisans. The observation of such changes has been determinant to establish the cultural, political, social, and economic development of these cultures.

The most ancient archaeological remains found at Tak'alik Ab'aj lead us 3,000 years into the past, around 1,000 BC, at the very end of the Early Pre-Classic Period. During this time, the inhabitants of Tak'alik Ab'aj built dwellings with cobblestone floors and thatched roofs supported by wooden posts. The pottery was hard-fired, black colored with a highly polished finish. The cutting tools they used were made of obsidian brought from the quarries of what we know today as San Martin Jilotepeque in the Department of Chimaltenango, and from El Chayal, located very close to the ancient city Kaminal Juyu.

The site, located in the municipality of El Asintal in the Department of Retalhuleu, is spread out over 6.5 squared kilometers along nine terraces. Its ceremonial center, at the city's core, is open to visitors but the remains of the city's outskirts are now on lands occupied by five coffee farms; one of these, on the ninth terrace, is home to an ecolodge.

Tak'alik Ab'aj is still an important ceremonial site and many Maya descendants from the Highlands perform ceremonies there.

To explore this place and learn about the civilizations that inhabited it, I invite you to come back tomorrow. I am sure we all will enjoy the visit!

Reserva Patrocinio: Let's Enjoy a Great One Day Tour!

noreply@blogger.com (Erin Deleon-Ahumada) — Mon, 14 Jun 2010 21:21:00 +0000

Last week I was so anxious to restart the blog after our short break, that I skip the usual introduction to a new department. Well, after one week of traveling through Reu, which by the way is how locals call Retalhuleu, I am sure you might have an idea about this region, so I am just going to mention some details.

The name Retalhuleu comes from the K'iche voices Retal (sign), Hul (hole), and Uleu (earth), which translates as Sign on the Earth. The department is divided into 9 municipalities, and we already visited an area of Champerico when we went to the Manchon Guamuchal biological preserve, and San Francisco Zapotitlan, the municipality where the IRTRA parks and hotels complex is located.

Today, I want to guide you through Reserva Patrocinio, which even though it belongs to the department of Quetzaltenango, is easily accessible from Reu; actually from where we are right now, is only about 20 minutes. So please, join us today to discover another jewel of Guatemala's nature paradises.

This reserve covers an area of approximately 140 ha with a mosaic of different habitats, ranging in elevation from 750 to 850 meters above sea level. It is dedicated to the conservation of fragments of old growth broad-leaf forest, and to the restoration of the local natural habitat.

The conservation efforts as well as the school and medical clinic are sustained by the economical income generated by the agricultural crops (mainly coffee, cacao, rambutan, macadamia, and pacaya) and the tourism program.
Until now, 10 families live in the reserve whose members are involved not just in the tourism program as guides, room attendants, cooks and waiters, but also in the different tasks required for the agricultural project.

The Reserva Patrocinio is also a good site for easy bird watching. A network of trails and hanging bridges gives access to the forests and different plantations, where skilled birders can see more than 100 species on a good day during the migration season.
There is also an observation tower and feeding stations for fruit-eaters and hummingbirds, all of these are excellent spots to watch the birds. The list of recorded species in this place includes 185 species.

About 150 years ago, this area was covered with humid broad-leaf forest; unfortunately, human activity has shrunk the forest to fragments without biological corridors and that is why Scarlet Macaws and Red-throated Caracara, once common, are today extinct on the Guatemalan Pacific Slope.
Although these species did loose their appropriate habitat, the remaining forest fragments are important refuges for many other species.

This, among some others, is one of the reasons why I am convinced that the tourism industry and particularly sustainable tourism, may play a valuable role not just in the development of even the remotest communities, but also in the preservation of our natural richness.

To complement the wonderful nature experience, Reserva Patrocinio also offers wide trails for mountain biking and 4 cables for zip-lining where you can literally fly across the valley, over tropical vegetation and a coffee plantation.

And if all of the above is not enough, from the cafeteria at Reserva Patrocinio, which is only 9 kilometers away from the Santiaguito Volcano, we can admire impressive views of this amazing volcano.
Did you enjoy our tour today?

Hostales del IRTRA: High Quality Lodging and Guatemalan Hospitality

noreply@blogger.com (Erin Deleon-Ahumada) — Fri, 11 Jun 2010 20:50:00 +0000

Just across the road from the two theme parks Xocomil and Xetulul that we just visited, are Hostales del IRTRA, a beautiful and functional complex that encompass a virtual leisure city with various lodges, restaurants, bars, swimming pools, spa, and a mini-golf course. There are four separate lodging concepts ranging in price for visitors with no IRTRA ID, from $40 a night in a standard room for up two adults and two children to $300 a night for a luxurious suite.

The first hotel built within this complex is Hostal San Martin with 192 rooms, which was inspired by the Colonial architecture and resembles the Spanish government buildings of Antigua Guatemala. It consists of four separated buildings with long covered passageways with arches, and a spacious central plaza featuring a large fountain in the middle.

Hostal Santa Cruz was inspired by the Mediterranean-style architecture and offers 151 rooms elegantly decorated and distributed in 10 buildings.

Hostal La Rancheria consists of individual rustic yet comfortable and elegant cabanas designed for large parties. Every one of the 48 cabanas has 2 double bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, dining/living room, and fully equipped kitchenette.

Hostal Palajunol, the newest and most spectacular, was inspired by the cultures inhabiting the world’s tropical rain forests and has become the favorite. The buildings housing a total of 212 rooms at Palajunoj are worth a look for their unique architecture, since each one of the five buildings in this complex represents a different culture.

Nakuru - Africa

Papeete - Polinesia

Mandalay - Thailand

Kalimantan - Indonesia

Uaxactun - Maya

At Hostales del IRTRA, all the rooms are equipped with private bathroom, cable TV and telephone. Air Conditioning is available in most of the accommodations, with the exception of the initial 92 rooms located on the first floor in the San Martin buildings that have ceiling fans.

This beautiful hotel complex also offers a variety of leisure facilities, three splendid restaurants inside its premises, bars and snack bars, beautiful gardens and of course, complimentary transportation to the Xocomil and Xetulul theme parks.
Definitely, even though today is only a wishful thinking, I am ready to start packing!

Xetulul: The Amusement and Cultural Park

noreply@blogger.com (Erin Deleon-Ahumada) — Thu, 10 Jun 2010 21:25:00 +0000

The most recent theme park created by IRTRA, Xetulul, features 7 plazas (pavillions or squares) that represent a similar number of different cultures. Xetulul takes its name from a Mayan voice that translates as “under the trees”.

Three of the plazas are dedicated to Guatemala: the Plaza Chapina welcomes the visitors with replicas of historic buildings, such as the Railroad Station (the original in downtown Guatemala City, is now a beautiful museum), the Royal Palace (the original building was destroyed by an earthquake in 1917, and in its place we find the Centennial Park, which was built in 1921 to commemorate the first centennial of the Central America Independence), the Palace of the Noble Town Council (the original and well preserved in Antigua Guatemala still can be admired), and the Church at San Agustin Acasaguastlan (in the Department of El Progreso, still in our list to visit). Every building has an utilitarian purpose, such as restaurant, souvenirs shop, jewelry gallery, among others.

The Mayan Plaza features an impressive 112 feet-high recreation of the iconic Mayan temple Gran Jaguar (the original is in Tikal), painted in the colors archaeologists believe the original Mayan cities were decorated. The third plaza dedicated to Guatemala is the Guatemalan Town, which brings together several picturesque towns into one harmonic and charming plaza. Among other services and attractions, in this plaza we will find a seafood restaurant.

The Italy Pavilion features several buildings inspired in the Florentine and Venetian architecture, including recreations of the Ufizzi Gallery, the Palazzo Vecchio and a wonderful replica of the Fontana di Trevi. In addition to two Italian-style restaurants, in this area there is a Gelateria.

The France Pavilion includes recreations of the Moulin Rouge and the spectacular Grand Theater where magic shows are presented regularly. The Germany Pavilion is designed to look like a true German town and the Spain Pavilion features a replica of the Alhambra and houses with architecture from different regions of Spain. All the pavilions include several attractions, special services, and restaurants where food representative of the different countries is served.

But definitely the most exciting part of Xetulul are the rides and entertainment attractions. From thrilling roller coasters and chair-o-planes to bumper cars, carousels and screaming swings. You will certainly be able to experience an adrenaline rush if you’re up to the challenge. My inner child is already telling me, let's go! What about yours?

Xocomil: The Water Park

noreply@blogger.com (Erin Deleon-Ahumada) — Wed, 09 Jun 2010 20:50:00 +0000

Honestly, I didn't think that an attraction like this could be of interest but to my surprise, I was wrong. Since the website I used as reference is in Spanish, a couple of our travel companions asked for details and I just can't say no. All the images I am posting today are from the IRTRA Website and I hope that they won't mind because I didn't have enough time to request them their authorization.

The park Xocomil takes its name from the Tz'utujil and K'aqchikel voice that translates as "strong wind blowing over the water", actually a phenomenon observed every day around 5 p.m. in the Lake Atitlan.

Xocomil is not only the biggest water-park of Guatemala, it’s also the most visited and complete. Designed around a Mayan pyramid, this fantastic 77,300 square meters amusement park features a full day of fun for the entire family.

The park features four different pools, two of them with waves, one for children and one for adults; one flowing river that provides a fun way to get around the park floating on a tube while passing through gigantic replicas of Mayan masks with waterfalls, water cannons, and a replica of a Mayan tomb.

Xocomil also includes seven options of water rides, which will thrill you to the core. From high speed slides in a 148 meters ride, five-people tubes riding through a series of curves and steep drops, floating rides through a dark tunnel that propels riders into a big funnel, to exhilarating vertical high speed rides, this park certainly has everything anyone can expect in a world-class water park.

So much fun couldn't be complete without something to eat, right? Well, while enjoying at the park, you will find at least six different snack bars and several ice cream stands, and in case you forgot your sun blocker lotion or need a swimming suit, don't worry, there are three shops inside the park where you can find almost everything you need, from disposable cameras to souvenirs.

The park opens regularly from Thursday to Sunday, from 9 am to 5 pm, and during certain holidays opens daily. The entrance fee for visitors with a valid IRTRA ID and up to 5 guests, is free of charge. For the rest of visitors, the entrance fees are (as of today's US currency exchange rate): Adults, $12; Kids (up to 1.20m height), $6; Seniors (older than 60), $6. Isn't it great? I think it is, I am truly proud of this genuine Guatemalan accomplishment, as encourages me to think that projects like this somehow contributes to clear the misconception that some people may have about my motherland.

IRTRA Theme Parks and Hotels: A Self Contained Destination

noreply@blogger.com (Erin Deleon-Ahumada) — Tue, 08 Jun 2010 20:50:00 +0000

Let me start by explaining that IRTRA are the initials in Spanish for Workers' Recreation Institute, which was created in the early 1960s to provide low cost and high quality entertainment and recreational spaces to the Guatemalan working class. I don't know where else in the world you can find an institution like this; what I do know is that in Guatemala IRTRA is synonymous of an extraordinary and visionary concept, which is now available to everybody.

The theme parks in Retalhuleu, Xocomil (water park) and Xetulul (amusement park), are so beautifully designed that so far, they been awarded several national and international prizes. In 1998, the World Water Park Association awarded the park Xocomil as best water park in the world in the category Innovation; in 2008, this park was designated as Park of the Year by the Amusement Today magazine and received the Golden Ticket award; the same year, 2008, the park Xetulul won the Applause Award; and in 2009, the IRTRA creator, Ricardo Castillo Sinibaldi, was recognized as Industry Leader and entered the IAAPA Hall of Fame Awards.

Hostales del IRTRA is a modern and beautiful complex of 4 hotels with almost 700 rooms which makes it the biggest hotel in Guatemala. The hotels were inspired in 4 different themes: Guatemalan Colonial architecture, Mediterranean culture, the wetlands and rain forests of Polinesia, Indonesia, Thailand, Africa, and Guatemala, and country-style bungalows.

Probably you have never thought of Guatemala as an amusement park destination; however, due to the geographical location of Retalhuleu and its natural and archaeological attractions, a visit to at least one of the IRTRA facilities or staying at one of the hotels while exploring the surroundings, can be a joyful and rewarding experience.

From the Green Mountains to the Pacific Lowlands

noreply@blogger.com (Erin Deleon-Ahumada) — Mon, 07 Jun 2010 19:47:00 +0000

Enough with the pause! My paisanos are remarkable and unstoppable, so if they manage to get up on their feet right after the storm, literally speaking, we should do the same and continue with our journey; after all, we still have 5 amazing regions to discover!

According to the Inguat's regional classification, the Pacific Lowlands are included in region No.6: The Exotic and Diverse Pacific Ocean, an area where we will enjoy biological preserves, archaeological sites, recreational theme parks, long stretches of black sand beaches, world-class deep sea sports fishing, impetuous surfing waves, enchanting towns and villages, and probably, much more...

We interrupted our trip last week when we were about to visit Manchon Guamuchal, the transitional area between the highlands and the lowlands of the Pacific Coast, so, Manchon Guamuchal will be today's starting point. This beautiful Nature Reserve is located between the departments of San Marcos and Retalhuleu.

This wild, 13,500-hectare wetland reserve harbors the last remaining undisturbed mangrove swamps in the country. It is included in the Ramsar Convention on Wetlands, encompassing a list of globally important sites, particularly those that provide habitat for aquatic migratory and resident birds.

Manchon Guamuchal, is also a red and white mangrove forest, which is an important stop along the path of migratory birds coming from Canada and United States of America. Among the species that can be found in the area, are: 14 duck species (12, migratory), sparrow hawks, buzzards, falcons, and around 20 species of egrets. Birds arrive sometime in October to November, leaving in March after wintering in the lagoons. In addition to birds, there are crocodiles, iguanas, and abundant fish.

Despite its natural beauty and even though it is recognized as one of the most complex and productive ecosystems in the world, tourism in Manchon Guamuchal is not formally developed yet; however, there are plenty of activities that can be performed there, including birdwatching and kayaking, and for what I have seen and read, for nature lovers, exploring this area promise to be a rewarding experience.

Making a Pause...

noreply@blogger.com (Erin Deleon-Ahumada) — Mon, 31 May 2010 20:33:00 +0000

Most of the time, particularly in times of sorrow or misfortune, I would be the first person stating that the show must go on...

Today, knowing that the unfortunate events occurred in Guatemala during the past days have caused so much destruction and have taken several lives, I propose a minute of silence and ask you to join us in our prayers for better days.

Guatemalan Mountains: Beautiful and Unpredictable

noreply@blogger.com (Erin Deleon-Ahumada) — Fri, 28 May 2010 20:50:00 +0000

Once again, we interrupt our journey because of the mountains... The first time, to share with all of you the wonderful news about Andrea Cardona and her conquest of the Mt. Everest summit. Today, because of the tremendous explosion of the Pacaya Volcano last night.

A few days ago, Maynor Mijangos from Galas de Guatemala, the most valuable collaborator of this blog, climbed this colossus, which has been active since I can remember and took amazing photos that I was saving for the appropriate time in our itinerary. I won't wait, today is the appropriate day!

This event has been in the news since it started yesterday afternoon and the coverage continues with live reports all over the world. This media coverage came with a high price, since last night a journalist lost his life while covering the event. May the family of Anibal Archila find peace and consolation and know how many people share their sorrow and stand with them in this time of need. My prayers for the disappeared boys: for them to be found safe, and for their families to keep the faith.