American Alpine Institute - Climbing Blog

Avalanche Shoveling Technique

2012-01-27T06:00:00.000-08:00

One of the most overlooked techniques in avalanche rescue is how one shovels. This is the most time consuming part of any avalanche rescue.

The following video was put together by Backcountry Access, a company that develops avalanche beacons, shovels, probes and backpacks.

Following is a review of the key points from the video:

Technique for Rescue with One Person

Start downhill of the probe strike.
Make the hole approximately a wingspan wide.
Begin shoveling 1.5 times the burial depth downhill.
Save energy by shoveling snow to the sides of the pit.
Once you have dug down to a point where the snow surface is above your waste, begin to shovel the snow downhill.
Attempt to get at the victim's face as soon as possible.
When you get to the victim, uncover the head and chest and establish an airway.
Only leave the scene for help if there is a surplus of manpower or the victim has been excavated.

Technique for Rescue with Two People

In a shallow burial (less than 1 meter) start shoveling just downhill of the probe.
In deeper burials one rescuer should start just downhill of the probe. The second rescuer should start to dig downhill 1.5 times the burial depth.
Rescuers should shovel snow to the sides until the hole is waist deep. Once it becomes necessary to lift snow above your waist, then start shoveling the snow downhill.
If the victim is unconscious when you reach him, the first thing that you should do is to clear the airway and begin CPR.

This element of an avalanche rescue is often overlooked. But it is an extremely important part of rescue process and should be practiced alongside the use of a beacon and a probe.

--Jason D. Martin

Annual Benefit Dinner - American Alpine Club

2012-01-26T14:52:00.000-08:00

The American Alpine Institute just received the following press release from the American Alpine Club:

American Alpine Club Announces One-of-a-Kind Boston Giveaway

Enter by February 6 for a chance to win special AAC Annual Benefit Dinner prizes and access

Golden, CO—Today The American Alpine Club—dedicated to knowledge, inspiration, conservation and advocacy for the climbing community—released a chance to win a prize package so unique that it cannot be bought. The giveaway will offer one winner the following items, redeemable in Boston at the 2012 Annual Benefit Dinner on March 3:

• Two VIP Passes to the Annual Dinner. The VIP reception, overlooking Boston Harbor, is an intimate gathering of North America’s most accomplished climbers and mountaineers. The guest list includes Jack Tackle, Tom Hornbein, Janet Bergman, John Bragg, Jimmy Surette, and more.

• Ice Axe signed in person by the Saser Kangri II team. Freddie Wilkinson, Mark Richey, and Steve Swenson—the evening’s keynote presenters—recently summited the world’s second-highest unclimbed mountain and will sign a special axe to the winner.

• $100 toward the Silent Auction, which includes climbing art, one-of-a-kind trips, and gear packages from The North Face, Mountain Hardwear, and Outdoor Research.

• AAC backpack filled with goodies, including a signed hardback of One Mountain Thousand Summits, the award-winning book by Wilkinson. At the dinner, he will premiere The Old Breed, a video masterpiece about the Saser Kangri II expedition. Watch Trailer

Every person who buys a ticket to the 2012 Annual Benefit Dinner by February 6th automatically will be entered to win this giveaway package!

GIVEAWAY DETAILS: http://www.americanalpineclub.org/p/2012-annual-benefit-dinner-giveaway

The Annual Benefit Dinner is the AAC’s signature and largest annual event. In addition to fine dining and entertainment, the Dinner mingles climbers of all generations and abilities to celebrate the vibrant state of this 110-year-old organization. The event will be held in Boston at the Seaport Hotel and will celebrate a year of change and success through the theme of Partnership: Climbing through the Generations.

“In line with our theme, the weekend’s feature presentation will share the inspiring story of men and women from different generations climbing together in one of the world’s last uncharted places,” said Erik Lambert, Information & Marketing Director for the AAC. “The giveaway is an added incentive to bring younger climbers and more seasoned explorers together, celebrating the shared experience of the climbing life.”

Following dinner, Boston native Mark Richey (age 53) and climbing partners Freddie Wilkinson (age 32) and Steve Swenson (age 57) will share inspiration from their August 2011 Saser Kangri II expedition. They reached the 7,518-meter summit of the second-highest unclimbed mountain in the world—one of the last frontiers of Himalayan climbing.

Every ticket sold helps The American Alpine Club raise funds to improve its programs: protecting and preserving the places we climb, bringing climbers together, expanding information resources, grants, lodging, and more. Founded by a Boston native in 1902, the AAC has advocated for climbers throughout the generations, with a progressive implementation of new programs. In 2011 the Club:

• Hired staff around the country to ensure that the AAC is vibrant in your backyard. These Regional Coordinators regularly connect with Members by hosting local events, conservation projects, and more. Sarah Garlick supports the Northeast Region from North Conway, NH.

• Expanded its Member benefits to include rescue insurance, gym and gear discounts, and new and improved places for climbers to stay, such as the rebuilt Snowbird Hut in Alaska and the new AAC Clubhouse in Kathmandu, Nepal.

• Purchased 40 acres of land on the rim of West Virginia’s New River Gorge. The AAC is
working with local conservation and climbing organizations to break ground this year on a Climbers’ Campground with amenities walking distance from popular crags.

• Launched a new website, bringing local communities together in a more
user-friendly and attractive online space.

• And in 2012, the Club will break ground on a new Climbers’ Campground with easy access to climbing in New York’s Shawangunks.

“The AAC is at its best when we can be helpful to climbers where they climb—in their own backyards,” said Executive Director Phil Powers. “Our Members in the Northeast raised their hands to host the Annual Dinner this year. Regional staff and volunteers are working together to make it a truly top-notch event with a great local flavor. This is just one example of how the AAC is changing. We’re listening to our Members and helping them build what they want from the ground up.”

For more information and tickets, visit americanalpineclub.org/2012dinner

To encourage younger climbers to attend this gathering of the generations, those 28 and younger may purchase tickets at half price.

About The American Alpine Club
The American Alpine Club provides knowledge and inspiration, conservation and advocacy, and logistical support for the climbing community. The AAC advocates for American climbers domestically and around the world; provides grants and volunteer opportunities to protect and conserve the places we climb; hosts local and national climbing festivals and events; publishes two of the world’s most sought-after climbing annuals, The American Alpine Journal and Accidents in North American Mountaineering; cares for the world’s leading climbing library and country’s leading mountaineering museum; manages the Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch as part of a larger lodging network for climbers; and annually gives $80,000+ toward climbing, conservation, and research grants to adventurers who travel the world.

Learn about additional programs and become a member at americanalpineclub.org. Join the AAC’s online community at facebook.com/americanalpineclub.

Social Media Ready
Headed to the AAC’s awesome Annual Dinner in Boston? Now they’re offering a rad prize pack to one lucky winner: http://owl.li/8HaBk

Already got your AAC Annual Dinner tickets? Let us know and Invite your friends via the Facebook Event: http://owl.li/8HaTw

Didn’t really think the @americanalpine Annual Dinner could get cooler. Was wrong: http://owl.li/8HaBk

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 1/26/12

2012-01-26T06:00:00.000-08:00

Northwest:

--Hope is fading for the four individuals that have been lost on Mount Rainier for twelve days. Their was a brief reprieve in the storms on Monday and searchers were out all day. But the storms returned on Tuesday and the search has been limited since then. To read more, click here and here.

--An Olympic National Park scientist says the park’s glaciers have shrunk by an average of 15 percent since the 1980s, with one completely disappearing. Research found that Ferry Glacier, one of the park’s 60 largest in 1982, disappeared from its rocky niche in the Bailey Range. To read more, click here.

Read more here: http://www.theolympian.com/2012/01/16/1950826/olympic-national-park.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed:+theolympian-Environment+(The+Olympian+-+Environment)&utm_content=Google+Reader&utm_source=Sightline+Newsletters&utm_campaign=0fcc31ca37-SightlineDaily&utm_medium=email#storylink=cpy

--National Parks Director, Jon Jarvis wrote an excellent editorial eulogizing Margaret Anderson, the ranger killed at Mount Rainier on New Year's Day. To read the editorial, click here.

--A snowmobiler caught in an avalanche on Stampede Pass, Washington, on Sunday was quickly rescued by friends who watched it happen. The entire incident was recorded by a helmet cam, attached to the helmet of the man's friend, Rick Jablinske. To read more and to see the video, click here.

The tree that came down on the AAI Office and the neighbor next door.

--Wednesday provided an interesting morning at the American Alpine Institute offices. We found that a tree had fallen and landed on both our roof and our neighbor's roof. We spent the day watching arborists and roofers work on our building. On Tuesday night, Bellingham had sustained wind of 44 miles per hour, with gusts of 64 miles per hour.

Sierra:

--A Yosemite National Park employee has died after strong winds uprooted a huge tree that fell on his tent cabin. Park spokesman Scott Gediman says 27-year-old Ryan Hiller, of Chapel Hill, N.C., was killed Saturday by a branch from the tree. To read more, click here.

--Last week a young foreign exchange student from England was killed in a fall while climbing Cascade Falls near Lake Tahoe. To read more, click here.

--A 34-year-old man was killed at Heavenly Mountain Resort near Lake Tahoe last week after suffering chest injuries sustained in a skiing accident, according to the El Dorado County Sheriff's Office. It appears that the man lost control and collided with a sign post. To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

--Police say a fall that killed a 21-year-old Las Vegas hiker at the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area west of Las Vegas appears to have been an accident. Las Vegas police Officer Marcus Martin said Friday that investigators don't suspect foul play. To read more, click here.

--A 46-year old man is currently missing and is believed to be somewhere in Red Rock Canyon. To read more, click here.

--A new guidebook entitled, "Utah's West Desert" has recently been released. The guidebook covers Ibex, Masada, Marjum Canyon, Oquirrh Mountains, Stansbury Mountains, Mineral Mountains, Great Basin and Pequop, Notch Peak and the House Range. To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--Two skiers are dead after a difficult snow weekend in Colorado ski resorts. Authorities say a 13-year-old skier is dead after getting caught in an avalanche on Vail Mountain. A 28-year-old also died in an avalanche at Winter Park Resort. To read more, click here.

--AAI Guides Kurt Hicks and Ian McEleney wrote a short piece on moving fast in multi-pitch terrain with a team of three for Climbing magazine. You can find their excellent article on page 69 the December/January issue #301.

--It appears that Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk were responsible for chopping hundreds of bolts off Cerro Tore's Compressor Route during their recent free ascent. Simultaneously, the controversial young climber, Dave Lama, made the first free ascent of the route. To read more, click here and here and here.

--The 2012 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup in Saas Fee, Switzerland concluded Saturday with a second World Cup victory for Angelika Rainer of Italy this year in the Lead discipline and a dramatic display of skill and strength by Russia's Maxim Tomilov in Men's Lead. To read more, click here.

-- So there are a number of climbers in Europe right now that are pushing themselves, not on the rocks or glaciers, but on human made structures...and they're taking phenomenal photos of themselves doing it. To read more and to see the photos, click here.

--Two energy companies are seeking permits from the National Park Service (NPS) to construct a colossal 200-foot-high, 500-kilovolt power line through the Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area, our country's eighth-most-visited national park. These power lines would also cross the Appalachian National Scenic Trail. To read more, click here.

Mountain Conditions January 25th

2012-01-25T06:00:00.000-08:00

NORTHWEST:

-- Roads, Routes, Trails --

--Banks lake, Devils Punchbowl conditions.

Don't forget your bullet proof vest. Nevermind the deathcicles why are they shooting at us? For the full story and more conditions beta click here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1054444

Ice Conditions Thread on Cascade Climbers
Forest Service Road and Trail Conditions Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
Statewide Ski and Snow Report.
Route and Conditions from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.

--Weather and Avalanche--

Avalanche conditions are high after massive accumulation in the past 10 days, definitely take appropriate precautions in the backcountry and stay on moderate terrain.

Mountain Specific Weather Forecasting.
Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center
Forecast for Mount Rainier.

-- Webcams --

SIERRA:

-- Roads, Routes, Trails --

Damage to Yosemite's Big Oak Flat rd. from rock fall January 22nd.
Read More: http://www.nps.gov/yose/index.htm

--Weather and Avalanche --

Eastern Sierra Avalanche Bulletin

-- Webcams --

RED ROCK CANYON:

-- Weather --

Red Rock Canyon

-- Webcam --

Red Rock Webcam

-- The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

JOSHUA TREE:

--Weather

Joshua Tree National Park.

--Webcam

Joshua Tree Webcam

--Camping

ALPS:

-- Roads, Routes, Trails --

-- Webcams --

ALASKA:

We will begin regular conditions reports in the Alaska Range in late April.

Miley Cyrus Rock Climbing Parody

2012-01-24T06:00:00.000-08:00

When we found this online, Andrew had to put his headphones in. He couldn't even stand the parody version of this song.

But it is kind of funny.

Enjoy:

--Jason D. Martin

Climbing in the Ouray Ice Park

2012-01-23T06:00:00.001-08:00

A Note from the Administrative Staff at AAI:

The following is a short article from Mike Pond about the absolutely awesome ice climbing found in the Ouray Ice Park. But before you read it, we wanted to let you know that we have a SALE running on all courses and private trips in Ouray this season.

Climb Ouray with us in January or February

and get a 20% discount.

Now onto Mike's article:

Dear Ice Climbers,

I am the AAI instructor/guide for Ouray, Colorado. I’ve climbed in a lot of places, and have never seen anything that quite matches up to the Ouray Ice Park. While there is a lot of great ice and mixed routes in the Ouray backcountry, the ice park is where it’s at for honing your winter climbing skills. The park’s history is interesting in itself, which I’ll leave for another day. It’s great to be back for another winter of ice and mixed climbing here in Colorado!

The Ouray Ice Park from the entrance.

Just one piece of the mile-long ice playground.

The stats: Ouray, Colorado. Elevation 7800 ft. Population 800. A charming small mountain town with (developed) hot springs and a disproportionate amount of ice and mixed climbers given its small stature.

The Ouray Ice Park is right on the edge of town. Literally, I walk ten minutes from my house and I am in the park. The park itself is a slot canyon that has about one mile of ice climbing in it.

How, you may ask, would ice form for a continuous mile?

Well, the good people here in Ouray have a sort of mad scientist approach to ice climbing and have installed a piping system on the canyon rim, from which hoses spray water every night. This water flows over terrain of various angles to create a mega playground for ice climbers.

It is truly incredible. There are hundreds of ice climbs and dozens of mixed climbs. There is literally something for everyone here, with low-angle practice walls, fat flows, moderate-angle flows, steep flows, pillars, daggers, bolted mixed climbs from M6 (similar to 5.7) to M 10 (like 5.12), and even a few trad mixed climbs. Oh yeah. It is one of the best places in the world to learn how to climb ice and mixed. And, with an extensive backcountry at your doorstep, there is heaps of alpine climbing and longer ice routes to apply the skills learned in the park.

Climbing a fat, blue ice flow. Oh, Colorado.

Despite some wacky unseasonably warm weather that’s been hitting the country, the ice is happening here, full force. Even when it’s warm weather in the medium-high country, the ice park itself never seems to get much above freezing. Literally, yesterday I was in the backcountry in a protected, sun-drenched area in a t-shirt for most of the day. Talking with other climbers, it was perfectly chilly down in the park. While this may seem intimidating, it’s not bad down there. It’s well protected from high winds and inclement weather (it’s a slot canyon) and hey, freezing is good for ice! And ice, after all, is what we’re here for.

The ice park is a great place to learn how to mixed climb, combining rock and ice in the same pitch.

The author getting psyched for the next lead.

As the season progresses, I'll plan on adding more photos, videos, and stories from one of the country's best ice climbing areas in its prime season. Happy winter!

--Mike Pond, Instructor and Guide

Climbing Events January - February 2012

2012-01-22T06:00:00.000-08:00

1/20 - 1/22 -- Saas Fee, Switzerland -- Ice Climbing World Cup

1/27 - 1/29 -- Franconia Notch Region, NH -- VICE Fest 2012

1/28 -- Ouray, CO -- Hilaree O'neil Slide Show

2/2 - 2/4 Champagny en Vanoise, France -- Ice Climbing World Cup

2/2 - 2/5 Munising, Michigan -- Michigan Ice Fest

2/2 Las Vegas, Nevada -- Save Red Rock Meeting at REI

2/4 -- Everett, MA -- Dark Horse Bouldering Series Championship

2/11 -- Bellingham, WA -- NC3 Climbing Comp at WWU

2/10 - 2/11 -- Busteni, Romania -- Ice Climbing World Cup

2/16 Las Vegas, Nevada -- Save Red Rock Meeting at REI

2/17 - 2/20 -- Cody, WY -- Waterfall Ice Festival

3/3 - 3/4 -- El Paso, Texas -- Hueco Rock Rodeo

Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you STOKED!!!

2012-01-21T06:00:00.000-08:00

With the recent dump of snow we've received over the past week, I thought this first video is fitting.

I started snowboarding as a teen in Wyoming, and even taught lessons at a resort in Colorado. In the last few years I started to Tele, and even more recently I have stepped into the world of surfing. So when I saw this video, my jaw dropped and I knew I had to share it.

For those of you who spend the winters in the gym training, how about trying this at your next trip to the rock gym - to the top in a little more than 6 seconds?!?!

Spirituality in Climbing

2012-01-20T06:00:00.001-08:00

Calling all climbers!

Happy Winter. I am Mike Pond. I’ve been a guide for AAI for four years now, and am going to unabashedly use our blog to get the word out for a research study I am doing. I am a graduate student at Ohio University. Last year, I put the nomadic climbing-guiding life to the side to pursue a master’s degree at OU. This year I am completing my thesis (while climbing and guiding in the Southwest – currently in Ouray, CO enjoying the stellar ice. But I digress). The study is called “Investigating Climbing as a Spiritual Experience.” A graduate-level thesis is basically a shorter version of a Ph.D., and I am using my experience as a climber and guide to help out the research.

There are three basic components of this study: background, research, and write-up. So far, I’ve looked through some of the popular climbing literature out there that has spiritual elements in it, as well as scholarly religious works that are relevant to the topic. I finished this part last spring, and am now on step two – doing the research. Research in this field is quite “soft” compared to, say, biology or astrophysics. There’s no double-blind pill popping or lab coats involved, just a bunch of climbers (which seems to be the case in every part of my life these days).

Here’s where I need your help! I am looking for interview participants for my study. If climbing is somehow spiritual for you, I would love to interview you.

There are two criteria: you must be a climber (if you have gone on one of our courses or expeditions, you’ve got this covered), and climbing must be somehow spiritual for you. I have had a number of people ask what I mean by “spiritual.” I am going to play the standard psychologist trick and ask you, “what do you mean by spiritual?” If climbing is spiritual as it fits into your definition of spirituality, that will work. As a side note, one of the goals of this study is to find out what climbers’ definitions of spirituality are, and how climbing fits into that, so I want to influence responses as little as possible.

Some fine print: You must be 18 years of age or older. You will not be compensated for your time. There are no risks, and no benefits of participating (other than making my day). Your personal information (name, employer, location) will be kept confidential.

I’ll make sure to put something out in the AAI blog when I’m done (est. Fall, 2012). Thanks in advance for your help, and have a great winter season!

If you’re interested, or have any questions, please email me at mike.pond [at] gmail.com or call/email AAI, they’ll surely send you my way. Thank you very much!

--Mike Pond, Instructor and Guide

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 1/19/2012

2012-01-19T06:00:00.000-08:00

In Remembrance:

Internationally known ice climber and guide Jack Roberts, of Boulder, died of a heart attack Sunday after falling sixty-feet on the Bridal Veil Falls east of Telluride, Colorado. Authorities reported that the 58-year-old man died after plunging from the falls at about 12:20pm. Jack Roberts began his guide career in the North Cascades at the American Alpine Institute in 1980. He worked at the Institute until 1981. To read more, click here and here. Perhaps the best tribute to Jack can be found, here. To learn more about the man's life, click here.

Northwest:

--A snowshoer missing since Saturday on Mt. Rainier was found alive on Monday afternoon. A team of rescuers located Yong Chun Kim, 66, of Tacoma, at about 2pm in the Stevens Creek drainage just east of Mazama Ridge, said spokeswoman Lee Taylor. Kim appears to be in stable condition, conscious and was able to to walk. To read more, click here.

--Michael D. Collins left no doubt how he felt about his sentence Thursday. “I am appealing, by the way,” Collins said, after a Skamania County, Washington judge sentenced him to an additional 57 months in prison. The convict’s sentencing related to a recently filed charge of failure to register as a sex offender in connection to a 2009 beating of a skier. Collins is already serving a 14-year sentence for the high-profile robbery and beating of a cross-country skier at Dougan Falls in 2009 and another two-year sentence for a separate failure to register as a sex offender conviction from Clark County. To read more, click here.

--A Washington witness just east of Mt. Baker reports watching "three balls of light in a triangle formation" that eventually formed a straight line, pulsated three times and disappeared on January 11, 2012, according to testimony from the Mutual UFO Network (MUFON) witness reporting database. "I live on a lake under a set of mountains just west of Mt. Baker south/southeast of Bellingham Washington, Reed Lake/Cain Lake," the witness stated. "I walked out to my porch which I frequent often, and it faces west looking over the lake up to the mountains. On the top of the mountain just at tree line were three balls of light, clearly larger than any star." To read more, click here.

Sierra:

--Forest Service crews continue the major work to clean up seriously damaged forest areas from the severe wind storm in November. Crews are currently working in the Reds Meadow area where scores of trees were blown down by the wind. Forest officials said that the wind caused widespread damage to several areas of the Inyo National Forest and other public lands. To read more, click here.

--The Los Angeles Department of Water and Power snow and precipitation graph line on their website shows that this year’s snowpack has almost perfectly paralleled the serious drought winter of 1976-1977. But there is still a lot left of this winter and there is time to break away from this trend. To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

--A 27-year old climber was killed in a fall while climbing at Granite Dells in Northern Arizona. Information is still sparse, but it appears that the individual may have been soloing. To read more, click here.

--AAI Guide and Las Vegas Climbers Liasion Council Board Member Scott Massey was recently at the forefront of an effort to get human waste disposal bags placed in Red Rock Canyon. These Wag Bags are meant to be used for the disposal of fecal matter. It has been a long process and we are very proud of Scott for getting these in there.

--Thanks to the continued pressure, the developer that wanted Clark County Commissioners to let him use the Red Rock Canyon Scenic Byway as his construction traffic highway, has asked that the vote, which was originally scheduled for January 18th, be postponed to February 8, 2012. This change is a good sign. It means that he is worried about the pressure and it means that he is trying to undercut the number of people expected to show up at the county commissioner meeting. But this move will not stand. If you are going to be in Las Vegas on February 8th, please attend the County Commissioner Meeting and keep the pressure on. To learn more, click here.

--In related new, the rock popular Las Vegas rock band, The Killers, has written an op ed letter opposing the development in Red Rock Canyon. To read the letter, click here.

--In another related news, there will now be regular meetings at the Boca Park REI in Las Vegas for those concerned about the Red Rock development. Meetings are slated to take place on the first and third Thursdays of the month and will start at 5:30pm. To learn more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--A Denver woman died apparently from injuries suffered in a fall at Colorado's Silverton Mountain Saturday, according to multiple sources. Ski area officials are not commenting on a San Juan County Sheriff’s Department report that Sydney Elizabeth Owens, 25, died after sliding some 1,500 feet down the Riff Run during a guided ski tour at Silverton Mountain. To read more, click here.

--When rescuers first reached injured skier David Morse on Sugarloaf Mountain last Thursday afternoon, he was conscious and alert. Less than two-hours later, he died in the back of an ambulance. What happened between when Morse , 41, hit a tree on the side of the Lower Timberline Trail just after 3:30pm. and his death just after 5pm. is now the subject of an internal investigation by Franklin Community Health Network, a group that includes both the ambulance service and Farmington hospital to which he was being taken. To read more, click here.

--Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk made the first "fair-means" ascent of Patagonia's infamous Compressor Route on Cerro Torre. The team used none of the 300+ bolts on the route to achieve their goal. To read more, click here and here.

-- Pro snowboarder Jeremy Jones has become an advocate for the recognition of climate change. He started the non-profit Protect our Winters, which has a mission to "engage and mobilize the winter sports community in the fight against climate change." Jones' contention is that there is a lot to fight for, 67 billion dollar snow sport industry includes not just those who develop equipment or run resorts, but all the associated businesses around resorts and ski areas that depend on strong winters to survive. To read more, click here.

-- The intensifying battle between the ski industry and the United States Forest Service over water rights is far more complicated and nuanced than it might seem at first glance. It's not necessarily a bad thing that the matter has landed in federal court so a judge can parse through the issues and apply the law fairly. At the end of the day, the great hope is that the rights of citizens to enjoy recreational opportunities on federal land are appropriately balanced against the financial interests of ski resorts. To read more, click here.

--Multi-media has become the new feature on the Colorado Avalanche Information Center website this season. Following a charge from director Ethan Greene, staff included a roughly 3-minute video in their incident report for the New Years Day avalanche near Berthoud Pass. It features still photographs and on-site footage of CAIC experts conducting their analysis of the slide and outlining what happened to result in a partially buried, injured skier who was hospitalized upon recovery. To read more, click here.

--This is the time of year when thousands of people hit the slopes. Ski patrols help keep everyone safe, and one of the most important safety assets they have are rescue dogs, trained to find people buried by avalanches. To read more, click here.

--As Canadians hit the slopes this week, the Canadian Paediatric Society said Tuesday all those skiers and snowboarders should be wearing a helmet. "Despite strong evidence that helmets prevent injuries, many still ski and snowboard without them," said Dr. Natalie Yanchar, chairwoman of the CPS Injury Prevention Committee and co-author of the new statement. "Through mandatory helmet legislation, governments can send a strong message that helmets are important and reduce the risk of brain injury, disability and death." To read more, click here.

Mountain Conditions - January 18th, 2012

2012-01-18T06:00:00.000-08:00

NORTHWEST:

-- Roads, Routes, Trails --

- Failed anchors and other poor anchors reported on Mt. Thielsen: Read the TR.

- The Lower Elwha Dam access trail is closed due to a dam removal project but a new trail has been built. Read More...

Ice Conditions Thread on Cascade Climbers
Forest Service Road and Trail Conditions Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
Statewide Ski and Snow Report.
Route and Conditions from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.

--Weather and Avalanche--

- Snow Snow Snow -

Mountain Specific Weather Forecasting.
Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center
Forecast for Mount Rainier.

-- Webcams --

SIERRA:

-- Roads, Routes, Trails --

--Weather and Avalanche --

Eastern Sierra Avalanche Bulletin

-- Webcams --

RED ROCK CANYON:

- Guide Scott Massey added the first of 5 Waste Bag Dispensers at Red Rock. Thanks to: Scott for the Labor, The American Alpine Club for the Cornerstone Grant, and to the BLM for working to keep Red Rock Canyon more enjoyable for all.

Waste Bag Dispenser at the trailhead to The Kraft Boulders.

-- Weather --

Red Rock Canyon

-- Webcam --

Red Rock Webcam

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

JOSHUA TREE:

--Weather

Joshua Tree National Park.

--Webcam

Joshua Tree Webcam

--Camping

ALPS:

-- Roads, Routes, Trails --

-- Webcams --

ALASKA:

We will begin regular conditions reports in the Alaska Range in late April.

Bolt Failure in Australia

2012-01-17T06:00:00.000-08:00

Okay, so I'm going to wag my finger a little bit in this blog post. Here it goes.

Don't place bolts unless you know what you're doing!

There really is only one way to learn to place bolts correctly. That is to find a mentor who has done a lot of bolt placement -- or even better, bolt replacement -- and learn from that person.

The problem with placing bolts without understanding the different issues behind such a process is that with bolt failure a person could easily be hurt or killed. When you place bolts, you are essentially placing gear for someone else...so that gear has to be good.

The following video is absolutely terrifying, but it shows what could happen if a person gets out there and starts to put in bolts who doesn't know what he or she is doing. Nick Kaczorowski was killed at this crag outside Sydney, Australia due to inadequate bolting...

Forty kilograms is approximately 90lbs. This is akin to nothing in a climbing setting.

It appears that the person who placed these bolts, placed them in a form of very weak sandstone. He used expansion bolts instead of glue-ins, which are considered standard equipment in Australia's Blue Mountains, Nowra, and Mittagong climbing areas. The expansion bolts, as you've seen in the video, rip out very easily.

In may rock types, expansion bolts are really good. But not in this setting...

This goes to show that beyond getting training and mentorship, knowing how to place one kind of bolt may not be good enough. To really do a good job, one must know not only how to place a bolt, but exactly what is standard at a given crag. In other words, how much torque should there be? Is this a place where glue-ins are appropriate? How long should the bolt be? Should this be a wedge bolt or a 5-piece bolt? And so on...

Bolting seems simple enough...but when it comes to other peoples lives, simple enough might not be good enough...

--Jason D. Martin

A Tale of Two Adventures

2012-01-16T06:00:00.000-08:00

Recently AAI Guide, Doug Foust, took a couple of individuals out in Red Rock who were quite savvy with both video and photo editing. A week later they sent us this video of their adventures:

The Red Rock program is already ramping up for the spring climbing season. Red Rock Rendezvous is just around the corner and we currently have a sale on for those who would like to book climbing trips or courses the week before or the week after the event! Give us a call to find out more!

--Jason D. Martin

January and February Climbing Events

2012-01-15T06:00:00.000-08:00

1/20 -- Seattle, WA -- Backcountry Film Fest

1/20 - 1/22 -- Saas Fee, Switzerland -- Ice Climbing World Cup

1/27 - 1/29 -- Franconia Notch Region, NH -- VICE Fest 2012

1/28 -- Ouray, CO -- Hilaree O'neil Slide Show

2/2 - 2/4 Champagny en Vanoise, France -- Ice Climbing World Cup

2/4 -- Everett, MA -- Dark Horse Bouldering Series Championship

2/17 - 2/20 -- Cody, WY -- Waterfall Ice Festival

2/11 -- Bellingham, WA -- NC3 Climbing Comp at WWU

2/10 - 2/11 -- Busteni, Romania -- Ice Climbing World Cup

3/3 - 3/4 -- El Paso, Texas -- Hueco Rock Rodeo

Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you STOKED!!!

2012-01-14T06:00:00.000-08:00

Will Gadd tackles Roman Candle, a nice M8 in Hyalite with a short pillar of ice at the base. "What could possibly go wrong?" asks Will.

Here's some highlights of last week's Ouray Ice Fest:

And finally, well, I'll let this video speak for itself...

Winter Ascent of Whitney

2012-01-13T12:48:00.000-08:00

We just got word that AAI Guide Ian McEleney and the participants on his Winter Mountaineering program successfully summitted Mount Whitney(14,505'). Ian stated that it was extremely cold and that he was forced to wear his puffy jacket all day.

Some of the members of the Winter Mountaineering program will remain with Ian for the next two days. Tomorrow they will start a two day ice climbing intensive in the Eastern Sierra.

Congrats to the whole team!

--Jason D. Martin

The Art of Early Season Ice Climbing

2012-01-13T06:00:00.002-08:00

For the ice climber, mid-January is easy. In any given ice climbing venue, there is a host of fat climbs that are quite “in.” The ice abounds; the climber need only to choose which of these to climb. The rack consists of mostly long screws and draws. Early-season ice, however,is a much more challenging game.

At the start of each winter, I never cease to be amazed by the way ice forms. Mere trickles freeze just enough to allow the ice climber to pick and scratch their way up thin smears that grace slabs and rock faces. The experienced ice climber has a rolodex of early-season climbs; he knows just where the ice comes in after the first cold nights of winter.

The first few days are usually the most memorable of the season. Ironically (yet fittingly), the first days of the ice season are the hardest – you’ve got to be on your “A game” right off the bat. Why? Protection. Ice is protected with ice screws. These screws come in various lengths and hold quite well in good ice. The problem is that the shortest screws are 10 cm. long. This is great when the ice itself is 12cm. thick or more. But what if it’s not? Then you can’t protect with screws. Sometimes you can fit some piece of rock gear in the underlying rock (often peckers, pins), or find cracks to the side of the flow to fit in cams and nuts. Often, though, it’s a moot point: the ice is often too thin, and without good protection where you need it.

These are the days where you lead with a rack of cajones. Experience and skill become the climber’s protection. A fall would be quite dangerous. So, you don’t fall. (The doctor says “If it hurts when you go like ‘this,’ don’t go like ‘this!’”).

Despite the danger, it can be relatively controllable with a little style and grace. The competent climber can be rewarded with a private dance with the ephemeral early-season ice maiden. And what an elegant dance it is!

Following are some shots from early season ice climbs:

The author belaying off of three stubbies (the only part of the climb that took screws),

reinforced with a good belay stance.

Leading up the classic first pitch of Neurosis at Poke-O-Moonshine, NY. On this climb, there are actually a few bolts from the summer rock climb of the same name that the leader can chip out. There is also some rock gear in the corner to the right of the ice smear.

Tick-Tacking up Neurosis.

Seconding up Choinard's Gulley, Adirondacks, NY. This climb, a historic classic, is one of the first to come in each winter. It becomes much fatter as the season progresses, seeing hundreds of ascents per year.

--Mike Pond, AAI Instructor and Guide

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 1/12/12

2012-01-12T06:00:00.000-08:00

Northwest:

--A 30-year-old Utah man has been identified as the person killed Friday in an avalanche near Golden, in eastern B.C. Salt Lake City resident Adam Lawton was with a group of backcountry skiers when the slide came down in Molars Bowl. To read more, click here and here.

--On December 30, 2011 Sgt. Peter Thiessen issued a news release confirming that Duncan MacKenzie age 30 of Whistler/Pemberton was the victim of an avalanche in the Casper Creek area, north of Pemberton. To read more, click here.

--Friends, family, fellow rangers and law enforcement officers gathered Tuesday to pay tribute to the National Park Ranger who was shot and killed at Mount Rainier National Park on New Year's Day. The memorial service for Margaret Anderson was held at Pacific Lutheran University in Tacoma. Officers and deputies from multiple agencies from around Washington state, including King County, the Seattle Police Department and Washington State Patrol participated in the memorial. To read more, click here.

--In the first comprehensive study of its kind, a Portland State University report has found Mount Adams' 12 glaciers have shrunk by nearly half since 1904 and are receding faster than those of nearby volcanoes Mount Hood and Mount Rainier. It's another sign of gradually warming temperatures that -- if continued as expected by researchers -- will mean significant problems for the water-dependent Yakima Valley. The study lends urgency to an earlier federal report that shows the water content of Cascade Mountain snowpacks could dwindle by as much as fifty-percent by the 2070s. To read more, click here.

Sierra:

--Inyo National Forest Supervisor Ed Armenta has announced that Lesley Yen has been selected to serve as the Acting Deputy District Ranger for the Mammoth and Mono Lake Ranger Districts, following the December departure of long time Deputy District Ranger Mike Schlafmann. To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

--The Obama administration is banning new hard rock mining on more than a million acres near the Grand Canyon, an area known to be rich in high-grade uranium ore reserves. The decision, announced this week by Interior Secretary Ken Salazar, hands a victory to environmental groups and some Democratic lawmakers who worked for years to limit mining near the national park, one of the nation's most popular tourist destinations. To read more, click here.

--There's been a lot of talk about how Alex Honnold and Katie Brown have "sold out" by doing a credit card ad. Of course the talk is just plain stupid. How else are "professional rock climbers" supposed to make a living other than doing things like that ad. CNN recently did a profile on the ad and the climb, Ancient Art. To view the ad click below. To climb Ancient Art yourself, which -- at 5.8 -- isn't that technical a climb, click here.

Alaska:

--Polar adventurer Lonnie Dupre reached base camp at 7,200 feet on Mount McKinley early Monday morning after a difficult three-day descent from 14,200 feet. Unfortunately, Dupre was forced to give up his second bid to climb Denali in the winter, six thousand feet shy of the summit. To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--Canadian freestyle skier Sarah Burke is reportedly comatose after crashing on the superpipe in Park City, Utah while training for the upcoming Winter X Games. Burke, a four-time X Games champion who successfully lobbied to have halfpipe events included in the 2014 Olympics, was airlifted to hospital in Salt Lake City Tuesday after a hard landing.To read more, click here.

--The results of the Ouray Ice Festival are in. Winning first place was Nathan Kutcher, a newcomer to the festival. In the women's competition, sport climber Emily Harrington took first, followed closely by AAI guide Dawn Glanc. To read more, click here.

--Both the Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Award and the Mugs Stump Grant award winners were announced this week. It was not surprising to see some names on both lists. To see the Lyman Spitzer Award winners, click here. For the Mugs Stump Award winners, click here.

--Italian alpinist Hans Kammerlander recently finished the "Second Seven Summits." After completing an ascent of Mount Tyree in Antarctica this week he become the first person to climb the second-highest summit on each of the world’s seven continents. To read more, click here.

--On July 1st, California plans to close seventy state parks. The state is trying to save in order to plug a 9.2 billion dollar state deficit. Obviously this will result in the loss of a lot of jobs, but it will also result in damage to the parks themselves. To learn more check out the following film, or click here to read a blog on the subject at Outside Magazine.

--A dog that was believed dead after he was swept away in a weekend avalanche that killed his owner showed up four days later at the Montana motel where his owners had stayed the night before going backcountry skiing. To read more, click here.

--The ski industry is in a pickle. Cold weather and snow are essential, yet energy-intensive operations are driving the world toward a warmer, drier climate. Resort owners have taken notice, and within the industry Colorado-based Aspen Skiing Co. has consistently earned high marks from environmentalists for its efforts to reduce industry's footprint. To read more, click here.

Equipment Issues and Manufacturer Recalls:

--Cassin Joss Cams have been recalled. To read more, click here.

Mountain Conditions 1/11/2012

2012-01-11T06:00:00.000-08:00

NORTHWEST:

-- Roads, Routes, Trails --

Stuart Lake Ice: TR with some good beta on this ice flow.

Mt Hood, Reid Headwall: TR with photos and route conditions.

Ice Conditions Thread on Cascade Climbers
Forest Service Road and Trail Conditions Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
Statewide Ski and Snow Report.
Route and Conditions from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.

--Weather and Avalanche--

Mountain Specific Weather Forecasting.
Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center
Forecast for Mount Rainier.

-- Webcams --

SIERRA:

Lee Vining Ice is little boney this year with the Chouinard wall being the only flow that's really in. However, it's a good year for some mixed climbing or to hit some other spots that are usually buried or inaccessible.

-- Roads, Routes, Trails --

--Weather and Avalanche --

Eastern Sierra Avalanche Bulletin

-- Webcams --

RED ROCK CANYON:

-- Weather --

Red Rock Canyon

-- Webcam --

Red Rock Webcam

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

JOSHUA TREE:

--Weather

Joshua Tree National Park.

--Webcam

Joshua Tree Webcam

--Camping

ALPS:

-- Roads, Routes, Trails --

-- Webcams --

ALASKA:

We will begin regular conditions reports in the Alaska Range in late April.

Pre-Equalized Anchors

2012-01-10T06:00:00.000-08:00

Last summer I saw a family climbing on an American Death Triangle in Leavenworth. They were blissfully unaware of the danger of such a set-up and appeared to be even more unaware of pre-equlaized anchors. It's incredibly important to avoid the American Death Triangle. The term "death" isn't in there for nothing.

The American Death Triangle
Picture from the Chockstone Website

This entry is about pre-equalized anchors. The Canadian guide, Mike Barter has put together a variety of videos on youtube that are valuable to both the novice and the advanced climber alike. Following are three of his videos on pre-equalization. The first two are for novice anchor builders, and the third is for all those looking for a short-cut.

A Pre-Equalized Anchor
Photo from the ACMG Website

There is a little bit of controversy over pre-equalized anchors. Some feel that one leg of the anchor will get more force than another, which means that such an anchor could never be fully equalized. While there may be some truth to this concern, the impact on the anchor as a whole is minimal and professional climbing guides throughout the country are generally not concerned about it.

In this first video, Mike describes a sliding-x, followed by the basics of pre-equalization.

The following video takes what Mike just described to the next step. In this video he demonstrates a pre-equalized anchor off three pieces.

The stuff in the preceding video is quite rudimentary when it comes to anchor building and most advanced climbers have this skill dialed. It's important to practice a variety of anchors with legs that are a variety of different lengths. It's also important to practice building anchors with many pieces as well with only a few.

Speaking of building an anchor with only a small number of pieces, more advanced climbers that already have a strong understanding of their anchoring skills may find this next video a bit more valuable.

In this video, the guide provides a quick tip for keeping the power point high.

Practice makes perfect in every one of these techniques. So keep on practicing!

--Jason D. Martin

Tricks in the Alpine - Episode 4

2012-01-09T06:00:00.000-08:00

Traveling and living in the alpine environment can pose many challenges, and often times it is the little tips and tricks that make existing in the alpine more enjoyable. Many of these tips and tricks have been passed down from climber to climber and guide to guide, but some of them are stumbled upon randomly and seem so inconsequential that they often don't get shared.

Well - I would like to change that! In an effort to do so, I'm introducing a new series to this blog, called "Tricks in the Alpine." In each episode, we will attempt to share alpine trickery that you may or may not know already. Please feel free to comment on how you've used these tricks, expanded on them, or look forward to using them!

1. Use a hose clamp and cord to make a hanging kit for your stove

You can purchase a Jetboil hanging kit for $30, and it will come with a fancy triangle base and strong steel cable and a bunch of other stuff that is only used for hanging your Jetboil and extra weight. Or, you could go to the hardware store and buy a $3 hose clamp and 50 cents worth of cord and make one yourself that is more simple. The nice thing about the homemade kit, is that it never leaves your Jetboil, it's lighter weight, and the materials used to make it could be used for other repair needs if necessary. I believe the photo is explanation enough for how to make this yourself.

2. Bring different sized slings for different tasks

When I'm in the alpine, light is almost always right. The skinniest Spectra slings out there (the middle white sling in the photo below) absorb the least amount of water and are the lightest, so most of my alpine-draws are made up of them. However, sometimes I'm nervous about abrasion over a particularly sharp rock, and that's when I like to use more of a nylon-Spectra blend (the purple sling at the bottom). These slings are a little thicker, yet are still lighter than full nylon slings and don't absorb as much water as nylon slings. Lastly, I do like to bring one double length nylon sling for anchors. When you're in the alpine, things are often wet or frozen, and you may be wearing gloves. Trying to remove an overhand knot in a 10mm Spectra that has been weighted at an anchor can be next to impossible with gloves on. Although the thicker (9/16" - 1") nylon cord is heavier, it is much, much easier to untie after being weighted. This additional weight of one (1) nylon sling is worth the time I save at belay transitions and the warmth I maintain by being able to keep my gloves on. While I mostly like to keep my rack as simple and uniform as possible, I do like incorporating one or two of the thicker slings for the purposes I mentioned above. Having options can be nice sometimes.

--Andrew Yasso
Program Coordinator and Guide

2012-01-08T06:00:00.000-08:00

1/7 - 1/28 -- Skagit Valley, WA -- Skagit Valley Eagle Festival
1/14 -- Las Vegas, NV -- Save Red Rock Canyon Fun Run/Ride

1/14 -- 1/15 -- Cheongsong, Korea -- Ice Climbing World Cup

1/20 -- Seattle, WA -- Backcountry Film Fest

1/20 - 1/22 -- Saas Fee, Switzerland -- Ice Climbing World Cup

1/27 - 1/29 -- Franconia Notch Region, NH -- VICE Fest 2012

1/28 -- Ouray, CO -- Hilaree O'neil Slide Show

2/2 - 2/4 Champagny en Vanoise, France -- Ice Climbing World Cup

2/4 -- Everett, MA -- Dark Horse Bouldering Series Championship

2/17 - 2/20 -- Cody, WY -- Waterfall Ice Festival

2/11 -- Bellingham, WA -- NC3 Climbing Comp at WWU

2/10 - 2/11 -- Busteni, Romania -- Ice Climbing World Cup

3/3 - 3/4 -- El Paso, Texas -- Hueco Rock Rodeo

Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you STOKED!!!

2012-01-07T06:00:00.000-08:00

Here's a funny take on your standard ski movie: it's called the Tilt/Shift affect. This camera trick makes everything look like a tiny toy set.

Here's another good one - digging the soundtrack for this too!

And just in case these "Tiny Mode" clips aren't your cup of tea, here's some Johnny Collinson ripping it up in Greenland.

VIDEO PROFILE: BD athlete Johnny Collinson skiing in Greenland from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

But maybe, just maybe you are one of those folks who can't stand winter or the snow (to each their own). Maybe you are yearning for warmer days and being out on some rock. Well, here's a little bit of Stoke for you. Hopefully this will help feed your need until it's time for some rock.

Adventure isn't always about the Summit!

2012-01-06T06:00:00.000-08:00

Last month I had the opportunity to go out and take a look at an area with a lot of ice flows that hasn't yet seen much action. According to my partners, they had went into this particular area two years ago and found a tremendous amount of ice. There were big blue flows everywhere.

Well, we went in a bit on the early side and didn't find those flows.

A series of ice flows on Hall Peak that were not yet climbable.

Nearly a decade ago I wrote about Hall Peak in Washington Ice: A Climbing Guide. There is one moderate route in the area called Silverton's Sickle. At the time of the writing, I had not been into the peak. I got the beta from the gentlemen who completed the first ascent of the line.

My friends completed the sickle in 2009 and then proceeded to climb a handful of first ascents in the horseshoe basin above the route. Based on what we saw on our recent trip into the area, they weren't lying. The lines just needed a bit more time.

We were a big group. There were six of us, which isn't always the best situation for making good choices in the alpine. But we did come to a group decision. We decided that if the ice climbs weren't in, then maybe we should try to climb Hall Peak itself.

We ascended a couloir up to a col at the base of the North Ridge (the Skubi Ridge). As we didn't have a guidebook, we weren't sure whether or not this route had been climbed. Apparently it had. It appears that the first ascent was made in 1962. But there is no evidence of a winter ascent...

One of my partners decided that he wanted to drop down the other side of the col toward the northeast face of the mountain. The face looked absolutely stellar. It was totally climbable...but maybe not totally protectable. Most of the face was covered in a couple of inches of ice. which would be fine for movement, but not necessarily fine for building anchors. And definitely not fine for a big team of six.

The Northeast Face of Hall Peak - The North Ridge is the

Right-Hand Skyline

We all dropped down and skirted below the face and climbed up a steep couloir, where it looked like there might be a way to attain the north ridge at a low saddle.

The Couloir - the Northeast Face is the the Right

There were two options to try. The first was to ascend a steep styrofoam snow slope. Both myself and one of the other climbers tried to do this, but found that the seventy-degree snow topped out on power covered slabs with no protection.

Looking up the slope. We knew that there would be no pro until the trees.

Unfortunately, the styrofoam ice ran out about twenty-feet below the trees, replaced by sugar snow on a slab.

Another view of the steep terrain above the couloir.

After retreating from this slope, we tried to climb through the top of the gully. There we found a steep rock step that was quite difficult to climb through. Both I and one of the other climbers tried this as well.

The author approaching the rock step.

Photo by Kevin Riddell

The author - about to start the rock step.

Photo by Kevin Riddell

The author - in the rock step. There was a bit of bad protection at the start, and the

crack to the left was chocked full of ice. When I tried to place a cam and pulled on it,

it slipped right out. I couldn't get into a good position to chip the ice out.

Photo by Kevin Riddell

The second climber was ultimately able to chip out enough ice to do some direct aid, but time was running short and we had to retreat.

Ultimately, we didn't get up Hall Peak. And in a full-day out in the field, I was only able to climb about a pitch of rock and ice. But it didn't matter...

There was a time when such a day would have been really frustrating for me. There was a time where I had the mantras, "summit or plummet," and "fingerlocks or cedar box," and "no mistake or big pancake." But those days are gone...

A summit is just a place. It may be a goal or even an obsession, but it's not the most important thing. Having a good day in the mountains with friends and coming back in one piece is far more important that any summit...

--Jason D. Martin

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 1/5/12

2012-01-05T06:00:00.000-08:00

The mountains can be a dangerous place.

This week we have five avalanche fatalities to report in the United States and Canada. It's that time of year when the snowpack isn't always stable. It's very important to become familiar with the dangers posed on a given slope, but it is also important to be aware of the "blue skies" trap, in other words, the how-could-anything-bad-happen-on-such-a-beautiful-day trap. If you haven't taken an avalanche course, then this is something that you should seriously consider prior to spending time in the winter backcountry. But even if you do take a course, sometimes the mountains are hiding dangers that can't be foreseen.

The mountains can be a dangerous place...

All of these fatalities were horrific and will leave terrible holes in communities and in families. But this week's ranger fatality was different. An act of nature didn't take the 34-year-old mother of two away from us. Instead, it was an unbalanced individual.

Was there a way to predict the danger that this individual posed? Maybe. Maybe not. I'm not an expert on mental illness or PTSD. I just know that this wasn't right and that this wasn't fair.

The mountains can be a dangerous place...but we shouldn't have to worry about something like this...

Northwest:

Park Ranger Margaret Anderson was killed on Sunday.

She is survived by her husband and two young daughters.

--Park Ranger Margaret Anderson was shot and killed during a traffic stop on New Years Day in Mount Rainier National Park by a mentally disturbed Iraq War veteran. The suspect, Benjamin Colton Barns, fled the scene of the shooting and attempted to hide out on Mount Rainier. The following day, the man's body was found in Paradise Creek a short near Narada Falls. It appears that Barns was involved in another shooting earlier in the day. To read more, click here and here and here and here.

--On Tuesday, a stress management team was sent to Mount Rainier National Park to help the staff deal with the loss while returning to normal operations. To read more, click here.

--There is some conversation taking place on CascadeClimbers.com about a possible memorial climb that would raise money for the Anderson children. To read more, click here.

--The tragedy on Mount Rainier underscores a little-known fact about the country's national parks and national forests: these landscapes are also home to some of the highest rates of assault on law enforcement. To read more, click here.

--Information about donations for Ranger Anderson's children may be found here.

--This individual's team was near Reflection Lake when the ranger was shot. Their story about the incident from their -- at the time -- completely uninformed perspective is terrifying and well worth reading.

--A warm spell and heavy, wet snow are creating a risk of avalanches in western Canada, including one that killed a backcountry skier, officials said Friday. Royal Canadian Mounted Police Staff Sgt. Alex Boden said a man in his 30s from Whistler, British Columbia, was critically injured in a Thursday afternoon slide near Pemberton. To read more, click here and here.

--The man who died while heli-skiing on Friday near Revelstoke, B.C., was a married father of three. Ronald Greg Sheardown, 45, was in a group of 11 skiers on their sixth run of the day in the backcountry 32 kilometres southeast of Revelstoke when RCMP say the group triggered an avalanche. To read more, click here.

--A skier at the Revelstoke Mountain Resort experienced a near miss after triggering an avalanche during a run last Thursday afternoon at the B.C. Interior ski facility. Approximately 12:50 pm, the Revelstoke RCMP responded to a report of an avalanche being triggered by a skier in the “Thumbs Up” Greely Bowl area of Mt Mackenzie north side. To read more, click here.

--A Montana-based watchdog group is suing the U.S. Forest Service and Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest Supervisor Rob Iwamoto. Wilderness Watch alleges that, under Iwamoto's direction, the Forest Service violated the federal Wilderness Act and National Environmental Policy Act when it built a new lookout atop Green Mountain in the Glacier Peak Wilderness Area east of Darrington. To read more, click here.

--Oregon State Police, with the help of an anonymous tip reported to the Crime Stoppers program, recovered a trail construction machine and a trailer stolen in late November from LL. "Stub" Stewart State Park. The investigation is continuing and a suspect has been identified but not charged. To read more, click here.

Sierra:

--A Florida skier has sued the owner of Heavenly Mountain Resort on Lake Tahoe's south shore, claiming she was seriously injured when an employee on a snowboard crashed into her last year. To read more, click here.

--On the morning of Wednesday, December 28th, 2011, at approximately 10:30, Mono County Sheriff’s Office Dispatch received a call regarding a downed paraglider in the area of the Mono Craters. Kern Barta, age 45, of Truckee, CA, was paragliding with a group of friends above the west aspect of the craters when he collided with the steep terrain. To read more, click here.

-The Mono County Sheriff Search and Rescue Team is a non-profit organization dedicated to saving lives. They commit to search and rescue activities throughout the year in the Sierra.seEach year, the Team honors members for their individual excellence and public service. The rescue member of the yearis Rick Dodson. Rick serves the Team as Equipment Officer, Board of Directors member, and has participated in 51 team events in 2011, including 14 field missions. To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

--The Yavapai County Sheriff's Office confirmed that the body of a hiker was found last Wednesday near Sedona. The man, 21-year-old Mahdi Harrizi, had called his mother on Tuesday and claimed to be stuck on a cliff. To read more, click here.

--A hiker was injured in Red Rock Canyon last Thursday. It appears that he broke his ankle in Pine Creek Canyon. He was short-hauled by a helicopter to the road where he was evacuated to the hospital. He is expected to make a full recovery. To read more, click here.

Alaska:

--The American Alpine Institute only has six positions left for people interested in climbing Denali in 2012. To read more, click here.

--Lonnie Dupre, the arctic explorer on his second attempt at Denali in the winter, is currently at 14,000 feet. He took a rest day yesterday and is looking for a weather window to make a quick ascent to the top of the mountain. To read more, click here.

--The National Park Service will begin charging per head Sunday, not per vehicle, to enter Denali National Park and Preserve. After reviewing public comments, the park service has decided to eliminate a $20-per-vehicle entrance fee and instead will charge a flat $10-per-person entrance fee for visitors age sixteen and older. That means a vehicle with four adults in it will have to pay $40 instead of $20 to get into the park. To read more, click here.

Himalaya:

Mount Everest

Photo by Guy Cotter

--No mountain captures the popular imagination like Everest. The world's highest peak, towering out of the Himalayas, has frequently proved deadly. The most famous of the mountain's victims was the first Englishman to attempt a climb: George Mallory. In the early 1920s Mallory took part in the first three expeditions up Everest, dying on his third attempt. Wade Davis, chronicles these expeditions in his new book, Into the Silence, which links the team's hardiness and appetite for risk and adventure to their experiences in the trenches of World War I. To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--Three separate avalanches caused the deaths of a skier and two snowmobilers Saturday and Sunday in Montana. To read more, click here.

--The Colorado Avalanche Information Center has issued an avalanche warning for Colorado's backcountry after a telemark skier triggered a large avalanche near Berthoud Pass on Sunday. Reports indicate that the skier, only identified as Matt from Fraser Valley, nearly died when his entire body, except for his head, was buried under snow from a three-hundred foot-wide avalanche that pushed the skier 400 feet downward. To read more, click here.

--New York Mets Pitcher, Mets pitcher R.A. Dickey is planning an ascent of Kilimanjaro in order to raise money for Bombay Teen Challenge, which helps victims of sex trafficking in India. This is a noble cause, but we still can't help snickering a little bit about his strange and useless training regimen, which includes jogging with a mask on to simulate high altitude. He would be more comfortable and better prepared if he just jogged. To see photos and to read a story about the ascent in the Wall Street Journal, click here.

--A hiker and his dog were nearly killed when the dog fell down a steep slope in Lake View Terrace, near Los Angeles. The hiker attempted to climb down the hill to rescue the dog, but quickly became stuck. Watch the following video to see dramatic footage of the rescue. To read more, click here.

--2011 was a dangerous year in grizzly country: Two hikers lost their lives in separate maulings in Yellowstone National Park and 10 people were attacked by the majestic bears across the West. To read more, click here.