A Mingling of Tastes

5 Questions for Jenny Nelson

2010-08-11T16:14:00.000-05:00

This post is the result of an offer I couldn't refuse: Check out a copy of Jenny Nelson's new novel, Georgia's Kitchen, and then pick her brain to my heart's content. Since I tend to enjoy the delicious blend of food and fiction, I was happy to give it a try.

This is definitely fun summer reading. I love books and movies set in New York City, and this one gives us a peek into a fictional dining hot spot where our heroine is the head chef. But not for long...

Read on to learn more about the book and what kind of grueling research the author undertook to get the food details just right!

Julie: Georgia, the main character, is a top New York City chef (at least she is when the story begins). Have you ever fantasized about a career in restaurant kitchens?

Jenny Nelson: Absolutely! I would love to work in one of the top kitchens – maybe at Thomas Keller’s Per Se or Jean Georges … though my skills are nowhere near up to snuff and I’d be booted so fast I wouldn’t even have time to pack my knives. But what fun to watch the great chefs work their magic!

Julie: You describe the food Georgia cooks in detail ("a house-made taglierini with peas and ramps from the Greenmarket, slivers of bresaola, and shaved pecorino"). What kind of research did you do to come up with the dishes described in the book?

JN: I ate a lot! I studied menus and recipes and ate in as many restaurants as my waistline and my wallet could afford. It was a blast.

Julie: Part of the book is set in Tuscany. Do you have any other favorite food destinations?

JN: I love the food in Vietnam, especially in Hanoi – it’s so fresh and light and filled with great vegetables and fish and herbs like cilantro. It’s exactly the kind of food I love to eat.

Julie: Vietnam is one of all-time favorite food destinations too, but I've only been to Ho Chi Minh City and Nha Trang. I would love to visit Hanoi!

Julie: Describe your perfect meal (whether it's one you've already had, or one you hope to have someday)?

JN: The perfect meal means perfect company, and that’d include my husband and six-year-old daughters. I’d put us at a seaside restaurant in Sardinia and we’d start with plenty of good bread and e.v. olive oil and something with tomatoes – maybe a simple bruschetta. Then we’d move into an arugula and parmesan salad, some type of risotto, branzino (my absolute fave), and finish with a cheese selection and house-made gelato, a variety of flavors but at least one would have to be chocolate based.

Julie: What do you make to eat for yourself when you're alone (be honest, even if it's cereal with milk!)?

JN: How’d you know? I’m a huge cereal fan and have been known to indulge in more than a few late-night bowls. Typically, I eat lots of fish, chicken, pasta, quinoa, tons of salads and veggies (really into sautéed kale and chard lately) and, oh yeah, tons of cheese. Yogurt with berries and walnuts is another almost daily meal, as is oatmeal with raisins, cinnamon and brown sugar. Though I’m not a huge meat eater, I do love the occasional burger and I make a terrific grilled flank steak with horseradish sauce. I’m getting really hungry!

Bonus Question: You've worked at both Vogue.com and Style.com. Do you plan to set a future novel in the fashion world?

JN: Probably not. Fashion has been done to death and unless I thought of a truly unique angle, I think that’s one topic I’ll avoid. Although, now you’ve got me thinking …

Thank you, Jenny, for taking the time to visit A Mingling of Tastes! A review copy of Georgia's Kitchen was kindly provided by the publisher.

Now tell me what YOU are reading this summer? Anything food focused, or just some plain good reads? Please share!

Quick Calimyrna Fig Jam

2010-08-05T15:02:00.000-05:00

This week, I made two old summer favorites: refrigerator fig jam and peach-blueberry cobbler with cornmeal biscuits. Both were delicious. Follow those links for all the details!

I've been very patiently waiting for a bumper crop of figs to get shipped over from California. My Whole Foods has had them for a few weeks now, but they've always got just a few little, not-so-enticing baskets on display. Then we took a little drive to my favorite Indian grocery store. As soon as I walked through the door, I saw big flat crates of juicy Calimyrna figs at a very nice price. I also got a huge bag of baby bok choy for $1.87 and restocked my supply of pickles and chutneys. That store never fails to make stupidly happy.

Calimyrna figs are light green, so you might mistake them for an under-ripe fig. Nope. If they're soft, especially if they're oozing their figgy juice, they are more than ready to eat. They're very sweet, with a less complex flavor than Black Mission figs, my favorite variety. They also seem to have firmer skins and made a very chunky jam, with most of the pieces remaining intact. I absolutely prefer this over the mushiness of traditional jam. You could think of them as preserved figs more than jam, I guess.

I didn't take a new cobbler photo, but think it may have turned out better than ever this time. I got beautiful fruit at the farmer's market, and the biscuit topping was excellent. Instead of yogurt, I used half a cup of buttermilk, but either one is fine. I made it for dessert, but a couple days later, I had some for breakfast with sweetened Greek yogurt. This is what cobbler is meant for--I'm totally convinced.

Have you done some summery things with figs, blueberries or peaches? Share!

Simple Broccoli Soup with Smoked Paprika

2010-08-02T13:13:00.001-05:00

When I say "simple" in this recipe title, I mean two things: easy and "pure and simple." I made it twice in a three-week span because it takes so little effort for a huge batch, and because it's the kind of health-giving, detoxifying food that makes you feel good. It's a nice way to balance out a restaurant meal or a big grilled steak.

If you have no need of its detoxifying properties, the soup goes perfectly with richer main dishes like quiche or savory tarts--It's is more substantial than just a side of steamed broccoli. I have enjoyed it both ways!

You can do anything to jazz it up with spices and herbs. Pureed like this, the broccoli is pleasantly bland, so you need adequate salt, as well as those flavor enhancers. It's great with yogurt or sour cream stirred in, and in the picture, it's served with Parmigiano-Reggiano and more smoked paprika (By the way, I can't live without McCormick smoked paprika lately. I love to use a ton of it to make tuna or salmon salad sandwiches--it is so smoky!). I think an Indian-spiced version would be delicious, and I might also try half-broccoli, half-cauliflower. Tell me, do you need a detox? Or is this way too healthy?

Simple Broccoli Soup with Smoked Paprika

The spice quantities are estimates, so please adjust to your own taste.

Makes 7 to 8 cups

1 Tbs olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

2 Tbs finely chopped fresh ginger

4 cloves garlic, chopped

2 tsp smoked paprika

1 tsp allspice

1 tsp cumin

1 tsp chile powder

cayenne pepper to taste

4 to 5 cups water

2 lbs frozen broccoli florets

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Serving ideas: Greek yogurt, sour cream, grated cheese, scallions, pepper flakes, hot sauce, smoked paprika

Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add onion, season with salt and pepper, and cook until soft and lightly browned. Add ginger and garlic and cook 1 minute, stirring often. Add spices and continue cooking 1 minute. Add 4 cups water and bring to a boil.

Add broccoli, cover and simmer until very tender, about 10 minutes (If broccoli is too crowded, add additional cup water). Remove from heat. Puree with an immersion blender, or in batches in a regular blender (a regular blender yields a smoother soup; instead of using the blender lid, cover with a kitchen towel, so steam can escape, and be careful when blending hot liquid; return to pot after blending). If soup is too thick, add additional water. Add salt (I used about 1 tsp) and pepper to taste. Serve hot.

Fava Bean and Prosciutto Pizza with Feta and Mint

2010-07-26T15:02:00.001-05:00

Here's another delicious idea for your best-ever, overnight whole wheat pizza dough. The credit for this idea of building a pizza around a pound of fresh fava beans goes to my brilliant other half. With it, we added prosciutto and caramelized onions--two ingredients that cannot fail to deliver incredible pizza--and topped it off with feta and mint.

If you don't have fava beans (check for frozen too), you can use regular peas. If you don't do mint, use basil. And goat cheese would be wonderful too. This pizza doesn't have a traditional sauce base, although the onion adds moisture. We drizzled the finished pizza with a little olive oil, as well. A layer of ricotta cheese, seasoned with herbs and thinned slightly with milk might be a nice replacement for tomato sauce. It's pizza, so creativity is a given. In fact, it's hardly a recipe, so here's how we did it, written up shorthand style.

Fava Bean and Prosciutto Pizza with Feta and Mint

To blanch beans, remove from pods and boil 1 to 2 minutes (use full 2 minutes if very large); drain and rinse with cold water; peel. To caramelize the onion, heat 2 Tbs olive oil on low to medium low, add onions, salt and pepper to taste and cook 20 to 25 minutes, stirring occasionally.

1 ball overnight whole wheat pizza dough, at room temp (1/2 recipe)

1/4 lb thinly sliced prosciutto, torn into smaller pieces

1 large red onion, sliced and caramelized

1 lb (in the pod) fresh fava beans, blanched and peeled

3 oz (approx.) feta cheese, crumbled

chopped fresh mint

extra-virgin olive oil for serving

Place pizza stone in oven and preheat to 550 F at least 30 minutes. Prepare dough as directed. Top with prosciutto, onion, fava beans and feta in the order listed. Season with freshly ground black pepper to taste. Cook 9 to 10 minutes or until crust is browned. Top with mint and serve, passing olive oil at the table.

Korean Chicken Marinade and Grilled Bok Choy

2010-07-16T15:08:00.000-05:00

I've been back from vacation for almost a week, and I'm still catching up on things. Like blogging. But I couldn't forget to post this awesome Korean-style marinade and my very favorite bok choy recipe.

We've never been big on marinating until this summer. I have some favorites, but otherwise it's taken a while for me to realize that the easy extra step of marinating can be so worth it. While it's uncertain that a marinade will actually make your meat moist, a soak in some tasty liquid will definitely add flavor to the food's surface and help protect you from carcinogens (cancer-causing substances) that form when meat gets charred on a hot grill.

You may remember the marinated Jerk Chicken that we loved a couple months ago. Mike and I almost didn't try this Korean version from the same Food & Wine article because we just wanted to repeat the jerk marinade. Luckily, we took a trip to the Korean market and loaded up on kimchi and other goodies, so rounding out the meal with this chicken was the only way to go.

As you can see, we used bone-in chicken breasts and leg quarters with the skin removed, but I think it would be as good or better with boneless breasts pounded thin. They cook ultra fast, which helps prevent the meat from drying out, and you'll be able to taste the marinade in every bite.

As for the bok choy, it couldn't be easier. I blanched them, drained them on paper towel and gave them to Mike to put on the grill for a minute or two. I whisked together a sauce from some of the same ingredients in the marinade and drizzled it on. The little char of the grill is so nice and is a lot easier and quicker to do than browning the bok choy in a skillet.

I also have to mention our favorite free-form marinade that Mike invented. It works great on fish and the aforementioned pounded chicken breasts. Just combine about 3/4 cup orange or grapefruit juice, 2 Tbs olive oil, 2 Tbs soy sauce, fresh or dry herbs (especially rosemary and thyme), crushed garlic cloves and black pepper in a large zip top bag. It's enough for up to a pound of meat.

Do you marinate? Does the recent news about the health benefits motivate you, or have you been on the bandwagon for years already? What's your favorite?

Korean-Style Marinade for Chicken

Adapted from Food & Wine magazine

Makes enough for 1 1/4 lbs boneless chicken breast cutlets, pounded thin, or 2 bone-in chicken breasts and 2 leg quarters.

1/3 cup low-sodium soy sauce

2 Tbs toasted (dark) sesame oil

1 Tbs honey

1 Tbs white wine vinegar or unseasoned rice vinegar

3 scallions, thinly sliced

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 Tbs (generous) finely chopped fresh ginger

Freshly ground black pepper

Toasted sesame seeds for serving

In a small bowl, whisk together the soy sauce, sesame oil, honey and vinegar. Transfer to a large zip top bag and add scallions, garlic, ginger and black pepper. Add chicken and refrigerated 2 to 4 hours for boneless breast or 4 to 6 hours for bone-in pieces. Grill and sprinkle with sesame seeds before serving.

Grilled Bok Choy

Serves 4

6 baby bok choy, halved lengthwise

1 Tbs coarse salt

1/4 cup low-sodium soy sauce

1 Tbs toasted sesame oil

1 Tbs honey

1/2 Tbs white wine vinegar or unseasoned rice vinegar

Toasted sesame seeds for serving

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add salt. Add bok choy, cover and return to boiling. Uncover and cook until bok choy may be easily pierced with a knife, 6 to 8 minutes. Drain in a colander, then place on a couple layers of paper towel to absorb additional water.

In a small bowl, whisk together the soy sauce, sesame oil, honey and vinegar.

Grill bok choy over moderate heat until light grill marks form, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Transfer to a platter, drizzle with soy sauce mixture, sprinkle with sesame seeds and serve.

Overnight Whole Wheat Pizza Dough

2010-07-01T13:28:00.002-05:00

This is my ultimate whole wheat pizza dough up to now. No doubt I'll try some other technique or recipe down the line, but this one is fantastic. It all has to do with the method, rather than some perfect combination of ingredients.

Like I said when I wrote about my tapas-inspired Sherry Mushroom Pizza (pictured above), the overnight rise and shaping method make a light, airy dough that rises beautifully during baking. I love the texture, with it's soft interior and crisp, bubbly exterior. Try it with the delicious tapas pizza or any toppings you want. Here are some ideas from my archives:

Fresh Fig and Prosciutto Pizza. (Do you have figs yet where you live? They must be coming soon!) Corn and Shrimp Pizza And 4 more great pizzas (including Bacon, Egg and Asparagus Pizza) in this loaded post!

Overnight Whole Wheat Pizza Dough

Dough adapted from The Art & Soul of Baking by Cindy Mushet.

You may substitute unbleached all-purpose flour for the bread flour. Makes about 1 3/4 lb, for 2 (12-inch) pizzas 1/4 cup/2 oz warm water (110 to 115 F) 2 1/4 tsp/1 packet active dry yeast 1 cup/8 oz water 3 Tbs/1 .5 oz olive oil 305 g/10.75 oz/2 cups bread flour 155 g/5.5 oz/1.25 cups whole wheat flour 2 tsp coarse salt Coarse cornmeal All-purpose flour for shaping dough Add warm water to the bowl of a stand mixer. Gently stir in the yeast and rest 5 to 10 minutes, or until yeast is activated and looks creamy. Add remaining water and olive oil, and whisk by hand to combine. Add flour and salt, and knead with dough hook on low speed just until dough comes together, about 2 minutes. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and rest 20 minutes, allowing flour to fully absorb liquid. Knead on medium-low speed until dough is firm, elastic and smooth, 4 to 6 minutes. Coat a large bowl with cooking spray or brush with olive oil. Transfer dough to bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Dough will approximately double in size. Gently scrape dough onto a lightly floured work surface. With floured hands, knead briefly and divide into 2 equal portions. Briefly knead each portion into a ball. If you’re saving half the dough for later, lightly coat inside of a zip top freezer bag with cooking spray, seal in one of the dough balls and freeze up to 2 months. When you’re ready to use it, defrost and bring to room temperature; proceed with shaping the dough. Coat a piece of plastic wrap with cooking spray to prevent sticking and cover dough, still resting on floured surface. Cover plastic with a kitchen towel and rest 1 hour, allowing dough to relax and come to room temperature. Place pizza stone on a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 550 F for at least 30 minutes. Sprinkle some cornmeal on a piece of parchment paper and place a ball of dough on top. With floured hands, pat dough into a flat disk. Using your knuckles and fingers, stretch and shape dough into a roughly 12-inch circle. It should be somewhat thin in the middle and slightly thicker around the edges. Sprinkle more cornmeal around the edge and add your toppings. Open the oven and carefully slide parchment paper off of the cutting board onto the pizza stone. Bake 9-11 minutes, or until crust is browned and cooked through. Lift the pizza stone with oven mitts out of the oven and slide parchment onto the cutting board. Slice and serve.

Sherry Mushroom Pizza on Overnight Whole Wheat Crust

2010-06-29T17:34:00.001-05:00

This pizza was inspired by a favorite dish from a tapas place Mike and I used to go to in Boston when we first met. It was mushrooms served in a creamy sauce made with rich meat stock and Sherry. You would soak crispy little toasts in the sauce and then scoop up a pile of mushrooms with the softened bread...delicious.

Turning to Spain (who just beat Portugal today to move on to the next round) on our tour of nations competing for the World Cup, we decided to use those flavors as a topping for what is maybe my favorite pizza ever. Okay, top three. Yes, pizza is Italian, especially when you make it with an amazing Neopolitan-style whole wheat crust. To make matters worse, we also used Fontina, an Italian cheese. But it is so good with mushrooms. And we're always after what tastes good around here, so there you go.

As for the crust, it looks like I've found my ultimate pizza dough recipe, at least for now. When I wrote about trying an overnight rise so the dough could develop greater flavor, I said I wanted to use this method with my whole wheat dough. It worked so well that I plan to do the overnight rise whenever I can. The whole wheat flour (in combination with bread flour) didn't have any negative effects, and I prefer some whole grain in my pizza dough rather than all white flour.

After doing it this way a couple times, I think the slow rise makes the dough incredibly airy. That, along with using your hands instead of a rolling pin to shape it, results in a higher rise during baking and and a tender, soft-on-the-inside, crispy-on-the-outside finished crust. I love the texture.

I'm going to post the crust recipe on it's own tomorrow so it will be easy to find, but I'll also go back and link it to this post (update: see link to dough recipe below). If you're dying to try it right this second, however, just use your favorite pizza dough recipe and let it rise in the refrigerator for about 24 hours, then quickly knead it into a ball and bring it to room temperature before baking. See what you think!

Sherry Mushroom Pizza

This recipe yields a generous amount of topping for a 12-inch pizza. You don't need to be too precise with the quantities while cooking, and it's fine to eyeball your measurements. You want a moist, slightly saucy consistency in the end. You can buy a bottle of good-tasting dry Sherry at liquor and wine stores for around $12. In this recipe, there is no substitute.

Makes one 12-inch pizza Special Equipment: Parchment paper and a pizza stone 1 Tbs olive oil 8 oz white mushrooms, sliced 6 oz Portobello mushrooms, sliced Fat pinch of dried thyme Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1/3 cup dry sherry 1 1/2 cups cooked, shredded chicken 1/4 cup reduced fat (or regular) sour cream 4 to 5 scallions, chopped Coarse cornmeal (optional) All-purpose flour, for shaping dough 1/2 recipe whole wheat pizza dough, at room temperature 4 oz Fontina cheese, grated 2 Tbs chopped fresh parsley Place pizza stone on a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 550F for at least 30 minutes. Heat the oil in a large skillet on medium. Add mushrooms and cook, stirring often, until they release their water. Raise heat to medium high, add thyme and season with salt and pepper. Continue cooking until water evaporates. Lower heat and cook until soft and lightly browned. Add the sherry and bring to a simmer. Cook until reduced by a bit more than half. Add chicken and stir to combine. Remove from heat and add the sour cream and scallions, and stir well. You want a very moist, slightly saucy consistency, but mixture should not be watery. Sprinkle some cornmeal (if using) on a sheet of parchment. Flatten and stretch dough with floured hands and shape into a roughly 12-inch circle (don’t use a rolling pin; it pushes air out of the dough, resulting in a flatter, denser crust). Top with chicken mixture and Fontina. Open the oven and slide parchment paper onto the pizza stone. Bake 9-11 minutes, or until crust is browned and cooked through. Lift the pizza stone with oven mitts out of the oven and slide parchment onto a cutting board. Sprinkle with parsley, slice and serve.

Bobotie Recipe

2010-06-25T06:20:00.000-05:00

I have been excited to try this recipe for over a week! It recently ran in a Canadian newspaper, The Globe & Mail, but the author says it is a family recipe from a cook in Queenstown, South Africa. I saved it to make on the day South Africa played in what would be their final match in the World Cup. Although they beat the French team 2-1, it was not enough to get them into the next round of play.

One thing I love about watching this soccer tournament is that I inevitably learn a little more about the world. I've brushed up on my geography (where exactly is Slovenia?) and history (both sports and political), as well as my culinary knowledge. When it comes to the nation of South Africa, I learned that its area is roughly twice the size of Texas, and that Nelson Mandela is 91! It also amazed me to think that only 16 years after the end of apartheid, South Africa is hosting a huge global event like the World Cup. Proof that things can turn around fast.

As for this recipe, it appealed to me instantly. It seemed quite similar to Sheperd's Pie (with its spiced meat filling) and Moussaka (with its custard topping), but with a sweet and savory flavor profile that reflects South African tastes. I was pleased by how easy it was to put together. The author of the recipe used ground beef in her version, but noted that it is usually made with lamb. I opted for lean ground turkey--with so much flavor from curry powder, turmeric, chutney, ginger, and more, I didn't see the need to use a fattier meat. I imagine that the most authentic way to do bobotie would be with leftover stewed or roasted lamb, just like you might use for traditional Sheperd's Pie.

The World Cup will be going on until July 11, so you have more than enough time to try a dish from the host nation! I highly recommend this Bobotie. It's fun to make and uses totally familiar ingredients, but you'll get a fantastic taste of South Africa.

Just-baked Bobotie.

Bobotie

Adapted from Lucy Waverman for The Globe & Mail.

This is traditionally served with yellow rice. Click through to the version in the Globe & Mail, for a recipe (if I were you, I'd omit the raisins--there are plenty in the bobotie). I served it with plain steamed basmati rice, but I also think it would pair well with a heartier whole grain, like brown rice or barley, for extra nutrients.

Serves 5

1/2 cup whole milk

2 slices white sandwich bread

2 Tbs safflower or other neutral oil

1 large white onion, chopped

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 1/2-inch long piece fresh ginger, peeled and chopped

1 Tbs brown sugar

1 Tbs plus 1 tsp curry powder

1 Tbs turmeric

1 1/4 lb. lean ground turkey

2 Tbs mango chutney

1/3 cup raisins

2 Tbs white wine vinegar

2 Tbs tomato paste

Topping:

1 1/2 cups whole milk

2 large eggs

Fat pinch salt

1 tsp grated lemon zest

Chopped fresh cilantro for garnish (optional)

Preheat oven to 350F. Pour milk into a shallow bowl and soak bread for 2 minutes, turning once. Squeeze out excess liquid and transfer to a clean bowl or plate; set aside. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, season with salt and pepper and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the ginger, brown sugar, curry powder and turmeric; cook, stirring well, 1 minute. Add the turkey, season with salt and pepper and cook, breaking up the meat as you go, until no longer pink. Add the chutney, raisins, vinegar and tomato paste. Tear the soaked bread into small pieces and add to skillet. Stir to combine and cook 4 minutes, stirring occasionally. Transfer to a 9 x 9-inch (or similar size) baking dish.

In a large bowl, combine all topping ingredients. Beat with an electric mixer on medium speed until very frothy, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour over turkey mixture and transfer to oven. Bake 50 to 60 minutes or until topping is set and lightly browned (use a thin paring knife to test the consistency of the topping). Rest 10 minutes before serving. Sprinkle with cilantro if using.

Brazilian Fish Stew (Moqueca Baiana)

2010-06-22T06:23:00.000-05:00

Doesn't this look light and pretty? I thought moqueca was just a basic fish stew, but it actually involves an interesting cooking technique I'd never used before. The result is a less liquidy dish that goes well over rice and tastes fresh and summery.

As you can see from the title of this post, we took our inspiration from Brazil, who won their World Cup match against Ivory Coast on Sunday. I found the recipe in a very roundabout way: I have a great Brazilian cookbook written in Portuguese. But since it has lots of pictures, we combed through it for something that looked appealing, then typed the Portuguese name into google to figure out what we were dealing with. I had a general idea of what mocqueca is, and reading a few English recipes clinched the decision.

All the versions I read were some variation on this general idea: marinate fish in lime juice and a lot of spice, then layer it in a big pot with bell peppers, onions, tomatoes and cilantro. A relatively small amount of coconut milk goes in so the ingredients can steam until cooked through. All the juices from the marinade, veggies and seafood marry with the coconut milk and create a flavorful broth. The finished taste is mild and comforting with just enough richness from the coconut milk.

It looks like Brazil won't be exiting the tournament anytime soon, so why not cheer them on with a Brazilian mocqueca feast? Unless of course they are the moral enemy of your favorite team!

Brazilian Fish Stew (Moqueca Baiana)

Adapted from From Our Brazilian Home to Yours and Simply Recipes.

Thick, firmer types of fish are best here, so it cooks in about the same time as the vegetables. I often use "light" coconut milk in recipes, but in a simple, mild dish like this, the flavor of the full fat version makes a big difference. Most mocqueca recipes call for sweet paprika, which I didn't have on hand. Smoked paprika plus mild chile powder was a good substitute for my tastes, but feel free to replace them with 1 Tbs total of sweet paprika.

Serves 4

4 (4 to 6 oz) halibut fillets (or other thick, firm white fish)

4 cloves garlic, chopped

3 Tbs lime juice

2 tsp ground cumin

1 1/2 tsp smoked paprika

1 1/2 tsp chile powder

1/2 tsp salt

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 Tbs olive oil

1 large white onion, sliced

1 red bell pepper, cut into strips

1 yellow bell pepper, cut into strips

4 plum tomatoes, thickly sliced

1 cup cilantro (leaves and thin stems)

1 (14 oz) can coconut milk

3/4 lb medium shrimp, peeled and deveined

Steamed rice, for serving

2 Tbs chopped cilantro leaves, for serving

Lime wedges, for serving

Place the fish in a wide, shallow baking dish or bowl. Add the garlic, lime juice, cumin, paprika, chile powder, salt and pepper to taste; rub all over the fish, cover with plastic wrap and chill for 1 to 2 hours. About 15 minutes before you're ready to cook, remove from refrigerator and let fish come to room temperature.

Add the oil to a Dutch oven or large stock pot. Place over low heat and arrange half the onion in a single layer inside the pot. Make more layers with half the bell peppers, half the tomatoes and half the cilantro; sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste (remember there is also salt in the marinade). Add the fish along with its marinade in a single layer. Top with layers of the remaining onion, peppers, tomatoes and cilantro. Add the coconut milk, cover the pot and raise heat to bring liquid to a simmer. Reduce heat to low and cook for 30 minutes, or until fish is opaque in the center. Add the shrimp and cook for 2 to 3 minutes more, or until opaque. Serve with rice, remaining cilantro and lime wedges.

German Potato Salad and Carrot-Dill Salad

2010-06-20T18:52:00.004-05:00

Just like the French World Cup team, Germany lost their match on Friday, but our food was a winner. We had big plans for our German-themed meal: warm potato salad with bacon-vinegar dressing and marinated carrot-dill salad served with grilled chicken.

To make it interesting, nature conspired against us with a big storm that blew through Chicago around 4:30 on Friday evening. Our power went out, but we still managed to do this meal AND I think it turned out even better due to the lack of electricity. At first, I was a bit put out because I couldn't use my food processor to shred carrots. I almost scrapped the dish, but then decided to try slicing the carrots as thinly as possible with a mandoline.

It worked out great, and I think it's an even prettier presentation than shredding. Mike got a nice arm workout getting 2 lbs. of carrots sliced ultra-thin, but it was worth it. Now that I think about it, Mike also made a marinade and grilled the chicken. It may not seem like I did all that much, but remember that somebody needs to be the mastermind:)

Once you deal with the carrots, using whatever method you choose, the salad is as simple as stirring a few ingredients together and letting them marinate for about half an hour. The potatoes are easy too, considering the very flavorful results. This style of salad is my favorite because I love the tangy vinegar dressing. Even with a bit of bacon in the mix, it's healthier and much tastier than the typical one-note mayo-based versions.

On Saturday night, we took Japan as our inspiration and went out for sushi. They also lost their World Cup match. It made us wonder if a pattern was developing. Fortunately, Sunday's country of food inspiration, Brazil, had success on the pitch. I'll tell you about our Brazilian dish, Mocqueca Baiana, in my next post!

German Potato Salad

Adapted from epicurious.com.

I started buying uncured/"natural" bacon to avoid nitrates and nitrites (chemical preservatives used in processed meats, which are linked to heart disease and diabetes risk), but was skeptical that I'd like it as much as regular bacon. Happily, we found it meatier and more flavorful, despite being lower in sodium. It was delicious in this dish, and I'd definitely recommend trying it.

Serves 4

4 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed

1 1/2 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes, chopped into 1-inch pieces

3 slices bacon, chopped

1/2 medium red onion, chopped

1/3 cup white wine vinegar

1/3 cup water

2 tsp. whole grain mustard

1 1/2 tsp sugar

4-5 scallions, chopped

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1/4 cup fresh dill, chopped

Fill a stock pot with about 1 inch of water and add the garlic. Insert metal steamer basket in pot and add potatoes. Bring water to a boil, cover and simmer over medium-low heat until potatoes are fork tender, 12 to 17 minutes. Take care not to overcook potatoes so they don't become mushy. When done, remove lid and set aside.

Cook the bacon in a large skillet on medium heat. Transfer to a paper towel-line plate, reserving bacon fat in the skillet. Blot bacon with more paper towel. Add onion to skillet and cook until lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Add vinegar, water, mustard and sugar; whisk to combine. Bring to a simmer and cook until reduced by one third, about 5 minutes. Reduce heat to low, add potatoes and scallions and stir gently to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Let potatoes absorb liquid for about 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and stir in the bacon and dill. Serve warm.

Carrot-Dill Salad

Adapted from globalgourmet.com.

Serves 4-6

2 lb carrots, peeled

1 cup orange juice

1/3 cup white wine vinegar

3 Tbs honey

2 Tbs olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1/2 cup fresh dill, chopped

With a mandoline, slice the carrots as thinly as possible while still keeping the pieces intact. Alternatively, shred them in a food processor or grate by hand. In a large bowl, whisk together the juice, vinegar, honey and olive oil. Stir in the carrots and season with salt and pepper to taste. Stir in the dill and rest at room temperature at least 30 minutes, stirring once or twice. May be made several hours ahead; cover and rest in refrigerator. Serve at room temperature.

Chickpea Flour Crêpes with Ratatouille and Goat Cheese Sauce

2010-06-18T12:38:00.004-05:00

Quel dommage! The poor French team did not do well in their match with Mexico yesterday. They suffered a 0-2 loss, but I'm happy to say we fared much better with our dinner.

Taking inspiration from the cuisines of various World Cup nations has been really fun so far. I think no matter how much you enjoy cooking, it's easy to fall into a rut where you just get tired of planning and preparing meals. Next time nothing sounds good, or you just feel bored, turn dinner into a game. It's definitely working for me.

Our French-themed recipe is both traditional and not. It's a crêpe, so that's certainly French. And we all know the beloved rustic vegetable dish, ratatouille. The twist is chickpea flour, more often a staple of Indian cuisine, but also the key ingredient in socca, a fried pancake which is a popular street food in Nice. For connecting those cultural dots, and for the great recipe, I give full credit to Martha Rose Shulman, the New York Times' wonderful Recipes for Health columnist (Seriously, check out her archives for tons of nutritious Mediterranean-style recipes.).

Anyway, if you're still following my explanation of this recipe, we're in the home stretch. Though Ms. Shulman is responsible for the delicious chickpea-flavored crêpes, the ratatouille is all mine. It's a simple, very light and healthy version that requires a lot less oil and no frying or long stewing process. The best part is, you can use the ratatouille a dozen ways. I was dying to toss it with some whole wheat pasta (kind of like this), and it made a great breakfast accompaniment this morning.

We made these crêpes into a full meal with chopped chicken sausage, but feel free to get your protein any way you like. Cooked and drained lentils would make this a very nice vegetarian dish. To top it all off, I mixed up a quick sauce by mashing goat cheese into Greek yogurt and thinning it with a little milk.

Germany played today, so they will serve as our next source of inspiration. I can't wait to start cooking!

For more on socca (and more ways to use your chickpea flour) read Mark Bittman's take here and here.

Chickpea Flour Crêpes with Ratatouille and Goat Cheese Sauce

Crêpes based on this recipe by Martha Rose Shulman.

Find chickpea/garbanzo bean flour (also called besan) at Indian and Middle Eastern markets. Bob's Red Mill brand, which is carried in many natural food stores, also makes it. You could certainly do this with any type of crêpe, and I think ones made with various whole grain flours (like these buckwheat crêpes) would be delicious.

Makes 8 crêpes

For crêpes:

1/2 cup chickpea flour/besan (about 64 grams)

2 Tbs all-purpose flour

1/4 tsp salt

2 large eggs

2/3 cup reduced fat milk

2 Tbs extra-virgin olive oil

Cooking spray

For ratatouille and filling:

Cooking spray

1 medium Italian eggplant, chopped into 1-inch pieces

1 yellow or red bell pepper, cut into thin strips

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 1/2 Tbs olive oil

1/2 red onion, chopped

pinch of dried thyme

1 large or 2 small zucchini, chopped into 1-inch pieces

3 cloves garlic, chopped

1 (14-oz) can diced tomatoes (preferably no salt added)

1 sprig fresh rosemary, leaves finely chopped

Fresh thyme leaves (a few sprigs), roughly chopped

2 ounces goat cheese

1/2 cup Greek yogurt

2-3 Tbs milk

2 fully cooked chicken sausages, heated according to package directions and chopped

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flours and salt. Add the eggs, milk and olive oil to blender and turn it on medium speed. With blender running, add flour mixture and blend 1 minute, scraping down sides as needed. Rest batter at least 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, preheat broiler to high and place oven rack 6 to 8 inches from heat. Coat a rimmed baking sheet with cooking spray and place eggplant and bell pepper and baking sheet. Coat with additional cooking spray, and season with salt and pepper. Spread vegetables out in a single layer and broil until browned and very tender, 15 to 20 minutes, turning once.

While vegetables broil, heat the oil in a Dutch oven or large skillet on medium-low. Add onion and dried thyme, season with salt and pepper and cook until onion begins to soften, about 7 minutes. Add zucchini, season to taste and continue cooking until onions are very soft and zucchini is tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Add garlic and cook 1 minute. Add tomatoes and bring to a simmer; cook until slightly thickened, 3 to 5 minutes (you want a very moist, but not watery consistency). Add the eggplant and bell peppers and stir to combine; stir in herbs and remove from heat.

In a small bowl, combine the goat cheese and yogurt, mashing cheese with the back of a spoon as you stir. Thin with milk to reach desired consistency.

When you're ready to eat, coat a medium nonstick skillet with cooking spray and heat on medium-high. Pour a thin film of batter over skillet (about 3 Tbs) and tilt pan to spread evenly. Cook until bottom side is golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Flip and continue cooking until browned on opposite side, 30 seconds to 1 minute more. Repeat with remaining crepes. You can eat as you go or stack a few crêpes on a plate and cover with a towel to keep warm. You can also cook them all and reheat in a 350F oven, wrapped in foil, for 15 minutes.

To serve, fill crêpes with ratatouille, chicken sausage and goat cheese sauce.

Sambar with Eggplant and Green Beans

2010-06-15T16:12:00.000-05:00

Sambar with idli & loads of veggies

Simple sambar with eggplant & green beans, with curry leaf garnish

I think I've mentioned how much I'm into Indian cooking these days. But now it's time to mix things up. I'm going super-international. The World Cup is finally in full swing, and it makes me think about how big the world is outside my own little pocket of American culture. Naturally, when I start dreaming about what it might be like to live across the world (or travel there, at the very least), I think about the food.

Four years ago during the last World Cup, and soon after I started this blog, I cooked several meals inspired by nations competing in the tournament. It was really fun! This time around, we're slightly more loosely organized. Yet, it's still a great opportunity to shake up our routine and eat dishes we don't have often enough, or that we've always meant to try.

Even though India is not in the World Cup, I'm posting my version of sambar, the medium-thick soup made with dal, vegetables and spices. It's often eaten for breakfast and served with dosas (crepe-like flatbreads) or idli, steamed savory cakes made with husked ground lentils. That will be the last Indian dish for at least a little while, so we can try out other international options.

To watch America's first game of the World Cup, where they TIED(!) England, we made the very simple, but very American, BLAT--bacon, lettuce, avocado and tomato on white bread with mayo. Lordy, I love a bacon sandwich, but I don't know the last time I had one. With a nice cold Sam Adams (Brewer. Patriot.), it was the perfect meal.

Homemade baba ganoush

Our next international destination was Greece. I attempted an on-the-fly taramosalata made with potatoes. Unfortunately, the texture was glue-like (anyone have a great recipe they can pass on??). Oh well. We also made baba ganoush and spanakopita, two favorites that I love to cook and eat. This spanakopita is healthy, EASY and it rocks. I'm not sure where we'll go next (although there's a taco place down the street that's been begging for a visit--Viva Mexico!). Meanwhile, enjoy this ultra-comforting sambar.

Veggies for the "kitchen sink" sambar depicted at the start of the post--check out the FRESH garbanzo beans in the front right!

Idli from the freezer section of the Indian market

Are you into the World Cup? Got any suggestions for international dishes I can try next?

Sambar with Eggplant and Green Beans Many sambars use less dal because they are meant to be one course in a larger meal. To make a more substantial main dish, I increased the amount. Adjust the liquid to make this the consistency you want. Feel free to use any produce that you would put in a vegetable soup—squash, carrots, bell peppers, potatoes, leafy greens. There are endless variations on sambar, so you can have fun with it. You can double this recipe if you want extra to freeze or eat throughout the week. Serves 4 5 cups water, divided 1 cup toor dal 1 1/2 tsp tamarind concentrate 4 tsp sambar spice mix (I like MTR brand) 1 tsp turmeric 4 Indian eggplants, chopped (or 1 small Italian eggplant) 1/2 lb green beans, trimmed and halved crosswise 1 1/2 Tbs ghee 1 1/2 tsp black mustard seeds 1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds 1/2 onion, finely chopped 8 curry leaves 2 dried red chiles, split 2 small hot green chilles, finely chopped 2 tomatoes, chopped (or 3/4 to 1 cup canned diced tomatoes) Chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish In a large pot, combine 4 cups water and dal and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, partially cover and simmer until very soft, 25-30 minutes. Add remaining 1 cup water, tamarind, sambar spice mix, turmeric, eggplant and green beans. Simmer until vegetables are tender. Add additional water if necessary to cook vegetables or thin the soup. Meanwhile, heat ghee in a large skillet on medium. Add mustard and fenugreek seeds. When seeds start to sizzle, add onion, curry leaves and both types of chiles. Cook, stirring frequently, until onion is soft. Add tomatoes, season with salt and cook until tomatoes begin to soften, 2 to 3 minutes. Add to dal and simmer for 5 minutes. Season with salt to taste. Serve with cilantro.

Carrot & Red Lentil Soup with Indian Spices

2010-06-10T16:45:00.003-05:00

I believe it's always soup weather. The beautiful Chicago summer days don't make me want it any less. This is a variation on one of my favorite soups, a creamy carrot-ginger number that I've made many, many times. This update came about after the long Memorial Day weekend (was that already 2 weeks ago!?) when we needed to replenish some nutrients lost due to the festivities.

My old carrot soup uses potatoes as a thickener, as well as coconut milk for flavor and body. With a cupboard full of dals (legumes from the Indian grocery store), I wanted to make this soup even healthier and more satisfying. I replaced the potatoes with red lentils (masoor dal), a variety that cooks down to a pleasant mush in very little time. I skipped the coconut milk and added toasted spices and aromatics at the end, as you often do with Indian dishes.

I loved the results and was really glad to add more fiber and nutrients with the lentils. While the potato version often left me feeling hungry in a couple hours, this soup is a hearty main course. You can easily adapt the spices here based on what you have on hand, so don't let any unfamiliar ingredients deter you. Do use plenty of fresh ginger though--the bright, vegetal spice is key. Carrot & Red Lentil Soup with Indian Spices

Serves 4 3 cups chicken broth 2 cups water 1 cup red lentils (masoor dal) 2 lb carrots, peeled and chopped 2-3 tsp curry powder (to taste) 1/2 tsp red chile powder (preferably the Indian type) 1 Tbs ghee or oil 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp black mustard seeds 1 white onion, chopped Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped (about 2 tablespoons) 1 to 2 hot chiles, finely chopped (Thai, serrano or jalapeno) Pinch asafoetida (optional) For serving: Greek yogurt or sour cream Lime wedges Chopped cilantro In a large pot, combine the water and lentils. Bring to a boil and simmer, partially covered, 20 minutes. Add the carrots, curry powder and chile powder; return to simmering (add 1 additional cup of water if needed to submerge carrots) and cook until tender, about 20 minutes more. If too much liquid boils off to effectively cook ingredients, add water in 1/2 cup increments as necessary; soup should be thick, but not difficult to stir. Meanwhile, heat the ghee or oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the cumin and mustard seeds. Cover skillet and cook until seeds start to pop. Add the onion, season with salt and pepper and cook, uncovered, until tender, 8-10 minutes. Add ginger, chiles and asafetida; continue cooking, stirring frequently, 3 minutes more. When carrots are tender, add the spiced onion mixture and simmer 5 minutes. Remove pot from heat and puree with an immersion blender or a regular blender (in batches). Return soup to low heat. If soup is too thick, thin with water or broth. Taste and season with salt and pepper as needed. You can add additional chile or curry powder too if you like. Serve with yogurt, limes and cilantro.

Overnight Pizza Dough

2010-06-02T12:28:00.000-05:00

It's become an established truth in foodie circles that chilling chocolate chip cookie dough for at least 24 hours makes for a tastier, better-looking cookie. Can the same be said for pizza dough?

It's not that cookies and pizza have much in common. Pizza dough requires yeast, just to name one major difference. But both involve a combination of dry ingredients, the vast majority of which is flour, and wet ingredients. When you allow for a nice long rest, these two elements get the chance to come together more fully, to put it very simply. The result is more, and more complex, flavor.

Cooking Light magazine did a big feature in their May issue on pizza, and it really impressed me. The editors clearly did tons of testing and research in order to determine what ingredients and techniques matter when it comes to making the best possible homemade pies. After all, when a recipe consists of little more than flour, yeast and water, it is truly the details that matter.

I used their recipe for Neapolitan-style crust to make the pizza above. Didn't change a thing for the dough, but opted for my own topping choices (inspired by a pizza on the cover of Food & Wine last year, actually). It was very good. I do think the overnight slow rise created a pleasing tang that you find in artisan pies from great restaurants. Unfortunately, I undercooked the crust slightly, which I absolutely hate. Mike, on the other hand, didn't really notice or care.

The following week, we wanted pizza again, but did not plan a day in advance. So, I made a version of the recipe in The Art & Soul of Baking that I've liked before, but let it rise twice over 4 to 5 hours and used half whole wheat flour. I can't say the Cooking Light version was miles better. I did, however, get one huge takeaway from CL that I'll always use when I make pizza: DO NOT use a rolling pin to roll out your dough. It breaks down the dough's structure, squeezes out the air, and results in a dense, rather than light and airy, crust. To get big, blistery bubbles in your dough, just press it out with your hands on a floured surface and/or stretch it over your knuckles in the air like the pros do.

Just after I'd made CL's dough, there was a piece in the New York Times food section on the best technique for homemade pizza dough. Guess what the writer concluded? Letting it rise overnight (and, ideally, if you're really obsessed, using a starter) makes all the difference. Interesting stuff. Since I LOVE making pizza, I'm always willing to try new recipes in the hopes of hitting upon my holy grail of pizza dough. I would like to try the overnight rise with my whole wheat flour recipe next time.

Now, I'm dying to know if you've tried this. Have you done the overnight rise? Were inspired by CL, the NYT or some other recipe? Do you think it matters or makes no difference? Do tell in the comments!

Grilled Jerk Chicken

2010-05-24T14:44:00.003-05:00

We tried the greatest jerk chicken marinade last night, and I couldn't wait to tell you about it! I'd love to take the credit, but we pretty much used a recipe straight out of the most recent issue of Food & Wine. The scent of the marinade by itsef is incredible, then add the smokiness of the grill on top of that--smells alone make this recipe worthwhile.

Although we love simple grilled chicken with our favorite tangy barbecue sauce and can't get enough tandoori chicken, we wanted to do something different (grilling burnout before Memorial Day is not cool). Mike decided on jerk style, and I remembered seeing the F&W recipe a few days before. Easy.

We modified the recipe slightly (it actually calls for pork tenderloin), so I'm writing it as we did it. We used bone-in, skin-off chicken breasts and leg quarters, which we tend to like on the grill. But we also had an extra boneless skinless breast, so we cut it into chunks and skewered it. I was really surprised that my favorite cut was the boneless breast--probably because the small chunks got covered in more marinade relative to their size and cooked quickly, staying moist and tender. If you're looking for something different for grilling over the long weekend, this is it!

Grilled Jerk Chicken

Adapted from Food & Wine

You can also use bone-in chicken breasts and/or leg quarters. Remove the skin before marinating so the flavor goes straight on the meat.

Serves 4

1/4 cup safflower or canola oil

2 scallions, sliced

2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped

2 habanero chiles, seeded and chopped

1 Tbs low-sodium soy sauce

1 Tbs lime juice

1 Tbs light brown sugar

2 tsp ground allspice

1 tsp freshly ground black pepper

1/2 tsp dried thyme

1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg (pre-ground is okay)

1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped

1 1/2 lb boneless skinless chicken breasts cut into 1 1/4-inch chunks

Salt to taste

In a blender, combine all ingredients through ginger and puree. Place chicken in a large zip top bag and add marinade. Refrigerate 3 to 4 hours, shifting and turning the bag once or twice.

Brush the grill rack with oil and light the grill. Thread the chicken onto metal skewers and season with salt. Cook over medium-high heat until outside of chicken is browned on both sides. Move skewers over indirect heat, cover grill and cook until chicken is no long pink in the center. Serve right away.

Kumquat-Mango Chutney with Curry Leaves

2010-05-12T13:59:00.002-05:00

With a bag full of fresh curry leaves in the refrigerator and about a dozen kumquats lacking any direction and purpose, I did the only thing I could do: make chutney!

Chutney can be confusing because there are so many different types, and you can make it with just about any fruit or vegetable. It generally contains spices, sugar and vinegar as well. Plus, it can be either cooked or raw. Lots of room for interpretation, right?

And what to do with all these chutneys? My thought is this: if you think a particular chutney will taste good with something--whether meat, sandwiches, desserts, breads or cheeses--then it probably will. Sweet, sour or spicy chutney can serve as a flavorful addition to just about anything. And I know for a fact that almost everyone reading this has eaten chutney. Your favorite Thanksgiving cranberry sauce (canned hunks of jelly excepted) or as some call it, "cranberry relish," certainly qualifies as chutney.

I'm loving my curry leaves and other Indian ingredients at the moment, but you can make this or any chutney with supermarket staples. Use oil instead of ghee; use whole or ground spices (allspice, cloves and cumin could easily be at home here); stir in some fresh cilantro or mint at the end instead of the curry leaves; use any kind of dried and/or fresh chiles you prefer. And finally for tons of chutney inspiration, look here and here.

Has anyone made chutney (besides cranberry sauce!) before? What did you use? Was it Indian-spiced or totally different?

Kumquat-Mango Chutney with Curry Leaves With a bunch of curry leaves to use, I tried to exploit their flavor as much as possible in this chutney; if you can’t find them, leave them out. With relatively little sugar, the flavor is a bit savory, a bit sour, a bit sweet, and spiced. You can make chutney a million different ways—it’s really just spiced fruit and/or veggies—so feel free to add or omit ingredients for your own spin. This was delicious with sockeye salmon and roast pork tenderloin. Makes about 1 1/2 cups 1 Tbs ghee 1/2 medium onion, finely chopped 1 tsp black mustard seeds 1/4 tsp coriander seeds 1 dried red chile 1 jalapeno chile, finely chopped 1 Tbs chopped fresh ginger 2 garlic cloves, chopped 20-30 curry leaves, chopped, divided 12 kumquats, thinly sliced crosswise, seeds removed 1 firm mango, peeled and chopped Water, as needed Crushed seeds from 4 green cardamom pods Cayenne pepper to taste 3 Tbs sugar 3 Tbs white wine vinegar Salt to taste Heat the ghee in a medium saucepan on medium-low heat. Add the onion, mustard, coriander and red chile; cook until seeds start to splutter. Add the jalapeno and ginger; continue cooking until onion is soft. Add the garlic and half the curry leaves; cook until garlic begins to color, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the kumquats, mango and 1/2 cup water; bring to a simmer and reduce heat to low. Add the cardamom, cayenne, sugar and vinegar. Cook until fruit is very soft and almost breaking down, and chutney is slightly thick, 30 to 40 minutes. Stir frequently and add water as needed to prevent chutney from sticking to the pan. Add remaining curry leaves about halfway through cooking. Taste and adjust seasonings as desired and add salt to taste. Cool and transfer to an airtight container. Keeps refrigerated for about 1 week.

Chicken Saag with Dal

2010-05-03T13:21:00.001-05:00

Here is another recipe inspired by my favorite Indian grocery store. Chicken saag is probably my favorite thing to order at Indian restaurants. It consists of boneless chicken (or paneer, the firm white cheese, if you want a vegetarian curry) pieces stewed in extravagantly spiced, silky-smooth spinach puree. The really good versions taste complex and are quite addictive.

As with so many Indian dishes, it seems impossible for an American home cook to turn out a version that could compare to what you'll get at a good restaurant. After years of being intimidated by Indian cooking, I'm happy to finally say that it doesn't mystify me the way it used to. I guess I would chalk it up to a greater familiarity with (not to mention access to) Indian ingredients, as well as having spent enough hours in the kitchen doing any kind of cooking, that tackling uncharted territory is a lot less daunting than it used to be. It may be that enough practice can give you the confidence to pull off just about anything.

So I made chicken saag for the very first time. And just for the heck of it, I created a one-dish meal by adding urad dal, or black matpe beans that have been skinned and split to reveal a creamy, white interior. I've never seen a saag dish like this, but I wanted to use these new-to-me legumes, and the results were great! In the picture, I garnished it with yogurt, chutney and lime. I love sampling the endless varieties of chutneys and pickles, but I really love the extra layers of flavor they bring out in a dish. I definitely recommend picking some up to punch up Indian meals. And if you suddenly think some spicy Indian pickled veggies will be amazing on a fish taco, go for it! Chicken Saag with Dal I suspect that yellow split peas or plain brown lentils could be substituted for the urad dal. Both will give you a slightly different taste and texture and may take more or less time to cook. The other ingredients are easy to find with the exception of asafoetida, a pungent spice that lends an onion-like flavor in cooking. If you don't have any, omit it. I like the bitter, peppery flavor of mustard greens very much here, but you can use all spinach (2 lb. total) if you like.

Serves 6 to 8 1 lb bag frozen chopped spinach, partially defrosted 1 lb chopped mustard green, thick stems discarded 2 jalapeno chiles, seeded and chopped 1 lb urad dal, rinsed 5 cups water 1 cinnamon stick 1 1/4 lb boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut in bite-sized pieces Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 2 Tbs ghee 1 large onion, finely chopped 2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and chopped 1 tsp cumin seeds 5 cloves garlic, chopped 2 tsp ground turmeric 2 tsp ground coriander 1/4 tsp asafoetida 1 Tbs garam masala Juice of 1/2 to 1 whole lemon Plain, thick yogurt (such as Fage Greek yogurt), for serving Chutney (mango, tomato, etc.) and/or Indian pickle, for serving Lemon wedges, for serving Warm naan or pita bread, for serving (optional) Add about 1/2 inch of water to a large Dutch oven and place over medium-high heat. Add the mustard greens, cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until wilted and very tender, about 8 to 12 minutes. A few minutes before greens are done, add the spinach and jalapenos; stir to combine, breaking up any frozen bits. Keep an eye on the water and add more if needed. Transfer greens to a food processor or blender, discarding any water remaining in the pot, and puree. Set aside. Wash out the Dutch oven and add the dal, water and cinnamon stick. Bring to a simmer over high heat. Reduce heat to medium low and simmer, uncovered, 15 minutes. Add the chicken, season with salt (about 1 1/2 teaspoons at this point) and pepper, and simmer 10 minutes more, or until chicken is cooked through and dal is tender. The lentils should absorb most of the water during cooking to reach a thick, stew-like consistency; if you don’t think there is enough liquid to submerge the chicken, add more in 1/2-cup increments. Meanwhile, heat the ghee in a medium skillet on medium low. Add the onion, season with salt and pepper, and cook until slightly soft, about 5 minutes. Add the ginger and cumin and cook until onion is browned and cumin is fragrant, about 5 more minutes. Add the garlic, turmeric, coriander and asafoetida; cook, stirring constantly, until very fragrant, about 2 minutes; remove from heat. Add greens to dal and mix well. Reduce heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally for 5 minutes so flavors can blend. Remove cinnamon stick and add the onion mixture and the garam masala. Continue cooking five minutes more. Add the juice of 1/2 lemon. Taste for seasoning and adjust as necessary with more salt, spices or lemon. Serve with yogurt, chutney, pickle, lemon wedges and naan, if desired.

Best Buttermilk Biscuits

2010-04-23T12:16:00.002-05:00

I've updated my go-to buttermilk biscuit recipe, and I think it's just about perfect. This is a high-rising, flaky biscuit with a crisp, layered exterior and soft, light center. There's nothing fancy going on at all. You put this together in minutes, especially if you use a pastry blender, one of the most useful low-tech gadgets around.

I know a lot of you may not have a pastry blender, but at $10 or less, I definitely recommend it. I used to be all about making scones and tart dough in the food processor, but having one little bitty gadget to wash is so much better. Plus, you'll never over mix your delicate, buttery crusts and quick breads. A lot of recipes call for "two forks" if you don't have a pastry blender, but I don't see how this quite works. Possibly one fork. But, really, the second best tool for blending the butter and flour into a coarse, shaggy meal is your fingers.

The one thing I couldn't resist doing to dress up these biscuits was crowning them with a tiny sprinkle of sea salt. The dough already has plenty of salt (don't skimp--they'll taste flat!), but those few extra crystals are great little bursts of flavor when you bite into the buttery biscuits. It should go without saying that you may not want to eat these everyday. But when you do, slather 'em with butter and enjoy.

Best Buttermilk Biscuits

If you don't have a kitchen scale, use the spoon and sweep method to measure the flour. Although you should use good, unsalted butter, it's not the ingredients that make a great biscuit, but the technique. Use a light hand when mixing and rolling. The more practice you get, the more effortless it becomes to make perfect biscuits.

Makes 7 large (3-inch) biscuits

2 cups flour (250 g)

2 tsp baking soda

1/2 tsp baking powder

1 tsp salt

1/2 cup butter, cut into cubes and chilled

3/4 cup lowfat buttermilk

Sea salt for topping (optional)

Preheat oven to 425 F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt. Add the cold butter and use a pastry blender or your fingers to work it into the flour until the mixture resembles a coarse meal. Add the buttermilk and stir just until flour is moistened.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead the dough 3 or 4 times, just until it comes together. With a lightly floured rolling pin, roll the dough 3/4 inch thick. Lightly flour a 3-inch biscuit cutter and stamp out as many biscuits as you can. Transfer to prepared baking sheet and quickly re-roll the remaining dough, handling it as little as possible. Continue making biscuits until you've used all the dough. Lightly sprinkle tops of biscuits with a few grains of sea salt if using. Bake for 16 to 20 minutes or until the bottoms of the biscuits are deep golden brown. Serve immediately.

Poached Salmon, Fennel & Orange Salad

2010-04-20T15:54:00.002-05:00

This is such a simple little salad. I made it for an easy, weeknight dinner, not thinking it would end up on the blog. As it turned out, there is something very special about this recipe, adapted from Bon Appetit magazine: it resulted in absolutely perfect poached salmon.

Since farmed Atlantic salmon is bad for us and bad for the environment, I only eat wild salmon now. The fresh stuff, unfortunately, is crazy expensive, and my general salmon consumption dwindled as a result. Then I figured out that packaged, frozen salmon, sold in the freezer case near the fish counter at my market, is a fraction of the cost. And it's great stuff! Alaskan sockeye salmon, cut into nice 6-ounce portions and frozen right after it was caught--convenient and super-healthy.

I started eating salmon a lot more often, but I struggled to find the best cooking method. For all its faults, farmed salmon was fatty and just about fool proof--I couldn't over cook it if I tried. The sockeye is much more apt to dry out. A quick saute in a cast iron skillet works well if you keep an close eye on things, but the poaching method I learned from this recipe tops it all. The trick is to take the pan off the heat as soon as you add the fish, so there's no danger of blasting the delicate flesh while you tinker with the heat level.

The toasty little bits you see flanking the salad are roasted potato crisps, which add a nice starchy element to this meal, but some whole grain bread would be good too; or serve it over grains like quinoa or barley. Ever since I wrote an article on cooking with citrus, I've gotten bizarre enjoyment out of supreming, or removing the sections from, fruit like oranges. This salad gave me an excuse to do that and to eat fresh fennel, which I don't do often enough! This simple weeknight meal turned out to be a real winner.

Poached Salmon, Fennel & Orange Salad

Adapted from this recipe in Bon Appetit magazine.

(printable recipe)

Serves 2 (may be doubled)

For the salmon:

2 to 3 cups cold water

2 Tbs sugar

2 Tbs vinegar (use either white, cider or unseasoned rice vinegar)

4 whole cloves

8 black peppercorns

1/2 tsp coarse salt

2 salmon fillets with skin (4 to 6 oz each)

For the salad:

1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced

5 ounce bag mixed baby greens

1 1/2 Tbs extra virgin olive oil

Juice of half a lemon

1 large naval orange, supremed

1/4 cup chopped fresh mint (optional)

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

In a medium skillet with a tight-fitting lid, combine the water, sugar, vinegar, cloves, peppercorns and salt. You want the water to almost cover the fish, so eyeball it and use the amount that will get you there. Bring to a boil over high heat and stir until sugar dissolves. Add salmon, skin side up. Cover skillet and remove from heat. Let stand 10 minutes. Turn the fillets, cover and let stand until flesh is just opaque in the center, 5 to 6 minutes more. Remove fillets from cooking liquid and cool slightly. Flake the fish with a fork into bite-sized pieces and discard skin and any bones.

Combine the lettuce and fennel in a large bowl. Drizzle with olive oil and lemon juice and toss well. Add the orange sections, mint (if using) and salmon; season with salt and pepper (your best sea salt would be nice here) and toss gently. Serve right away with roasted potatoes, steamed grains or bread, if desired.

Boston Baked Beans

2010-04-14T15:19:00.002-05:00

First, a shameless plug: Remember last week's mouthwatering recipe for Morel-Barley Risotto with Sun-Dried Tomatoes & Peas? If so (and you agree with the "mouthwatering" part), will you take one minute right now to head over to Marx Foods' Morel Recipe Challenge and vote for me? I'll admit the other entries sound fantastic! And there's even something in it for you! Go now and get a coupon code for 10% off your order of fresh morels, not to mention all the creative recipe ideas. The polls close on Friday, so don't delay! And THANK YOU!

On to the beans: In case you're more interested in all the beautiful spring produce (and spring weather!), we're getting now than in NCAA hockey, let me say just one quick thing: GO EAGLES!

The hockey team of my awesome alma mater just won the national championship, so I'm celebrating with some Boston food! Believing in the power of food and drink to influence sporting events, I made some awesome lobsta rolls, as well as these beans, to eat during the qualifying round, and what do you know? Straight to victory! Boston baked beans have an interesting history and are easy to make. If you're not convinced that homemade beans are a million times better than canned, just try these (do a comparison if you must!). A crock pot makes it so easy and frees up your oven or stovetop. You can also make it a day ahead so the flavors have extra time to mix and mingle. Boston baked beans are perfect for a summer (or spring!) barbecue, not to mention a hockey tourney.

Are there any B.C. alums out there reading this? Give me a shout out in the comments!

Boston Baked Beans Traditionally, these are made with navy beans (small white beans), but preferences vary—I used easy-to-find pinto beans.

Serves 6 to 8

1 lb. dried pinto beans 1 large white or yellow onion, chopped 4 garlic cloves, minced 3-4 center-cut bacon slices, chopped 2 bay leaves 1 Tbs. dry mustard powder 1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper 1/4 cup molasses (not blackstrap) 1/4 cup dark brown sugar Rinse beans and pick over. Place in a large Dutch oven or saucepan and add water to cover by 1 to 2 inches. Bring to a rapid boil and cook 5 minutes. Remove from heat, cover and soak 1 hour. Rinse and drain beans. Place beans and remaining ingredients in crock pot. Add water to cover by 1 inch (about 7 cups). Cook on low 4 1/2 hours or until beans are tender (cook times vary WIDELY depending on your crock pot, as well as the freshness of the beans, so keep an eye on things if you've never cooked beans this way before). If too much liquid remains when beans are finished (very unlikely, but just in case) transfer to Dutch oven and simmer until reduced to your liking. Keep in mind that liquid will thicken slightly as it cools. Season with 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. I like to make these a day ahead so liquid has time to thicken and flavors develop, but it’s not necessary.

Spanish Frittata

2010-04-09T10:18:00.001-05:00

This is my favorite frittata in recent memory. To be honest, I usually end up declaring any frittata I've just made most delicious, most perfect, very favorite. I'm quite free with my superlatives when it comes to food. But really, this is a great one. It combines two similar and wonderful egg dishes, the Spanish tortilla and Italian frittata.

Potatoes, borrowed from the Spanish dish, are a great way to make your frittata more substantial. And if you roast them first, they add a lot of flavor. The other Spanish ingredient is piquillo peppers. Sold in a jar near the relish, they're slightly spicy with a unique, bright flavor. Caramelized red onion is my current favorite way to make practically any recipe more delicious, and Feta works great in frittatas. Though it's neither Spanish nor Italian, the firm, dry cheese holds its shape, add some salty tang, and is easy to find just about anywhere.

I made this frittata for a brunch party I threw a little while back, along with the mini goat cheese and lavender biscuits I told you about. It came out of the oven maybe 25 minutes before my first guests arrived. I had plenty of time to get it out of the skillet, and it was definitely room temperature by the time we ate it. Believe me, the frittata is ideal for this scenario. As it cools, the flavors just get better (if you eat it very hot, your taste buds can't take it all in). The texture won't suffer at all, and it looks awfully pretty sitting on the table to greet your guests.

No need to wait for a party either! The leftovers are great, and it's just as good for dinner as it is for breakfast. I did a very similar, slightly more Spanish version, of this frittata here. And if you've never made a frittata, check out this post for more tips and ideas. Spanish Frittata Serves 6 to 8 2 medium Russet potatoes, peeled Cooking spray 1/2 tsp dried thyme Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 Tbs olive oil 1 red onion, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced 10 eggs 1/2 cup milk 3/4 cup piquillo peppers, chopped 1/2 cup chopped Feta Chopped parsley for garnish Preheat oven to 400 F. Line 2 baking sheets with foil and coat with cooking spray. Slice the potatoes as thin as you can, about 1/8-inch or less. A mandolin or V-slicer is ideal for this. Arrange slices in a single layer on baking sheets. Coat with cooking spray and sprinkle with thyme, salt and pepper. Roast in the upper and lower thirds of the oven until browned and tender, switching positions halfway through, 15-20 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a 10-inch oven-safe skillet over moderately low heat. Add the onions, season with salt and pepper and cook until very soft and golden, 20-30 minutes (if you rush this step, the onions will be browned/sauteed, rather than caramelized). Stir occasionally, and lower the heat if onions start browning too quickly. In a large bowl, beat the eggs. Add the milk, 1/2 tsp salt and pepper to taste; whisk to combine. Stir in the piquillo peppers, onions and Feta. Preheat your oven's broiler to high and position a rack about 6 to 8 inches away from the heat source. Generously coat the empty skillet with nonstick spray and add potatoes in an even layer. Place over medium-low heat. Pour the egg mixture over the potatoes and cook until the eggs start to set around the edges. Tilt the skillet as you lift the edges of the tortilla with a spatula, letting the liquid egg run into the gaps. It's okay if you jostle around the potatoes and other fillings as you do this; just even it out before proceeding to the next step.

When most of the egg is set around the edges (this will take several minutes) transfer the skillet to the broiler. Cook until egg is just set in the center, about 2 to 4 minutes. The frittata should be lightly browned on top, but watch closely because it can start to burn fast. Remove from oven (skillet will be very hot!) and let it rest in the skillet for 10 to 15 minutes. Wearing heat-proof gloves, place a large plate over the skillet and, holding the plate securely, invert the skillet, releasing the frittata on the plate. Finally, put your serving plate over the frittata and invert again so frittata is right-side-up. Serve warm or at room temperature, sprinkled with chopped parsley.

Morel-Barley Risotto with Sun-dried Tomatoes & Peas

2010-04-06T14:29:00.003-05:00

Of all the gourmet ingredients that have are now commonplace in pantries across America--think gray salt, rose water or vanilla beans--I think dried mushrooms may be one of the more intimidating items. I've purchased them for a specific recipe, then left the extras untouched for years. Although you can rehydrate and use them as you would fresh mushrooms, the texture isn't always quite right. And why bother with dried at all when fresh mushrooms are available 365 days a year in supermarkets at an affordable price?

I'll give you a couple reasons: white mushrooms and portobellos may be easy to come by, but it's difficult to find exotic, seasonal varieties fresh if you live far from where they are grown. If you do find them, they are often rather pricey. But dried morels, chanterelles and other incredibly diverse types can be stocked year round in any part of the country for your enjoyment.

The other reason to use dried mushrooms, and the best reason I think, is for dishes that can handle more than one dimension of mushroom flavor. The broth you'll make when you reconstitute your dried 'shrooms can infuse soups, grains and sauces with unique, earthy goodness.

I know all this, yet I don't use dried mushrooms as often as I should. I was really glad to get some motivation when Marx Foods contacted me and asked if I would create a dish using a sample of their dried morels. Along with a handful of other bloggers, I'm sending them an original recipe to help showcase the delicious possibilities of dried mushrooms.

Risotto was one of the first things that came to mind, but I wanted to put a nutritious, springtime twist on the idea. To do it, I cooked hulled barley in the morel mushroom broth using the risotto-style absorption method. When adding dried mushrooms to any dish, it's critical that you season them well. After all, you wouldn't just boil fresh mushrooms and expect them to taste like much of anything. To pump up the mushroom flavor I sauteed the reconstituted morels with a fresh chopped portobello mushroom, dried thyme and plenty of salt and pepper. Sweet peas added fresh spring color, and sun dried tomatoes provided a hit of concentrated umami to complement the mushrooms.

The results were so satisfying and flavorful, thanks to all that umami (from the Feta too). I served it with large sauteed shrimp (more umami!), but it could be a side dish for nearly any protein, as well as a vegetarian main.

Finally, I have a little favor to ask: if this recipe is making you lick your lips, go over to the Marx Foods website between April 12 and 16th and vote for me (I'll remind you again when the polls are actually open). The blogger whose morel-inspired dish gets the most votes will win a shipment of FRESH morels. I may like the dried ones, but I surely won't complain about a prize like that.

Morel-Barley Risotto with Sun Dried Tomatoes & Peas

(printable recipe)

Whole-grain, hulled barley is the most nutritious type because the grain and bran are left intact. It takes longer to cook than pearled barley, which is not a whole grain due to the polishing or "pearling" process. You may substitute pearled for hulled barley, reducing the cooking time to 30 to 40 minutes. Do not use quick-cooking barley, which has a much lighter texture and won't hold up well to this cooking method.

Serves 4

1 oz dried morel mushrooms (about 1 cup)

2 tbs olive oil, divided

1 shallot, chopped

3 to 4 cloves garlic, minced

1 cup hulled barley

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 large portobello mushroom cap, chopped

1/4 tsp dried thyme

3/4 cup frozen peas

10 oil-packed sun dried tomato halves, patted dry and thinly sliced

1/2 cup crumbled Feta cheese

Fresh thyme or mint leaves (optional)

Rinse the morels thoroughly, rubbing with your fingers to remove any grit. Place in a large heat-proof bowl and add 5 cups boiling water; soak for 20 minutes. With a slotted spoon, remove mushrooms and pat dry with paper towel; cut into bite-sized pieces and set aside. Transfer soaking liquid to a medium saucepan and keep warm over medium-low heat (do not simmer).

In a large pot, heat 1 tbs of the oil on medium-low. Add the shallot and cook until tender, 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute, stirring often. Add the barley and stir to combine. Toast the grains, stirring often, for 3 minutes. Add about 1 cup of warm mushroom broth and adjust heat to keep liquid at a simmer. Season with salt and pepper.

Continue simmering, stirring occasionally, until liquid is nearly evaporated. Add another cup of liquid and repeat until barley is done, 45 to 55 minutes (I have heard a range of cooking times quoted for hulled barley, so bear in mind that it can vary). You do not have to stir constantly, but keep an eye on it to prevent sticking. The grains will remain firm to the bite when fully cooked. If you run out of mushroom broth before barley is done, use hot water.

While barley is cooking, heat the remaining oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the portobello mushroom and cook until it releases some liquid, stirring often. Add the reserved morels and dried thyme, and season generously with salt and pepper. Continue cooking until portobellos are very tender and lightly browned. Remove from heat and set aside.

When barley is done, and with some liquid still remaining in the pot, add the peas and stir until heated through, about 2 minutes. Stir in the sun dried tomatoes and the mushroom mixture. Check seasoning and add salt and pepper as needed. The consistency of the finished barley should be slightly wet, but not soupy. Serve immediately, sprinkled with Feta and fresh herbs, if using.

Red Lentil Soup with Fresh Fenugreek

2010-03-24T14:48:00.002-05:00

There's a great Indian supermarket near Chicago. Not a little store front with a few shelves of dusty imported jars of curry paste; but a full-on grocery that makes Indian cooking seem a lot less stressful for western cooks like me. Shopping there was so much fun and certainly inspiring.

I had a small list of ingredients to be on the lookout for. I found all but dried mango powder, and I'm sure it was there somewhere, escaping my inexperienced eye. The best part about shopping in an unfamiliar ethnic market, however, are the whims--items that catch your eye and you just have to have even if you're unsure what you'll do with them. I picked up ping pong ball-sized Thai green eggplant and a big, leafy bunch of methi leaves.

The methi leaves looked kind of like watercress and smelled a bit peppery. I did not know them by name and was not sure how they should be used. But they looked so fresh and alluringly unfamiliar, I knew I could figure something out. At home, I learned that these greens are also known as fresh fenugreek. You may be familiar with dried fenugreek seeds, which add a pleasantly bitter sweet flavor to savory dishes like curries.

I decided to use my bunch of methi leaves as the centerpiece of a red lentil soup, sauteeing them separately with a mixture of toasted spices and onion. Along with the Thai eggplant they brought some novelty to simple lentil soup. When was the last time you used an ingredient that was totally new to you?

Red Lentil Soup with Fresh Fenugreek You can substitute cooked shrimp or hard boiled eggs for the crab meet. If you don't have fresh fenugreek, add some dried seeds along with the cumin seeds and use fresh baby spinach or watercress. Any type of eggplant may be substituted for the green Thai variety; or opt for chopped zucchini.

Serves 6 7 cups low-sodium chicken broth 2 cups red lentils, rinsed (about 1 lb) 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp garam masala 5 green Thai eggplant ½ tsp salt 1 (14 oz) can fire-roasted tomatoes 1 Tbs ghee 2 tsp cumin seeds 1/8 tsp red chile flakes 1 medium yellow or white onion chopped Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 4 garlic cloves, chopped 4 cups methi leaves (fresh fenugreek leaves), about 4 handfuls, thick stems discarded and chopped, plus additional for garnish 1 cup crap meat (from about 1 lb Jonah crab claws, or from canned) Lime wedges for serving In a large pot, combine the broth, lentils, coriander, turmeric and garam masala. Bring to a boil and simmer 10 minutes. Add the eggplant and ½ tsp salt. Simmer 20 to 25 minutes more, or until lentils and eggplant are very tender. Add the tomatoes and simmer for 2 minutes. About 10 to 15 minutes before lentils are done, heat the ghee in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the cumin and chile flakes and cook, stirring often, until cumin starts to pop and brown. Add the onion, season with salt and pepper and cook until lightly browned, about 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Add the methi leaves and a pinch of salt and cook until wilted about 2 minutes. Add onion mixture to lentils. Stir to combine and taste for seasoning. Ladle soup into bowls and top with crab meat. Sprinkle with reserved methi leaves and serve with lime wedges.

Irish Soda Scones with Raisins and Ginger

2010-03-11T07:28:00.002-06:00

Simple Irish soda bread never gets old to me, but last week I was on the hunt for a new St. Patty's Day treat. I've already done Guinness cupcakes and was very tempted to bake up a batch of these Guinness brownies and call it a day. But holidays are the perfect time to be creative and take advantage of some festive inspiration, don't you think?. Since I felt the chocolate options were well-represented here, I was leaning in the direction of buttery, pistachio-flecked something or other, but I couldn't quite get on board. I actually had a box of pistachio-flavored instant pudding in the cupboard purchased over 2 years ago to make these cookies. It never happened and the pudding came along when we moved from Florida to Chicago last summer. That was a wasted trip, since the stuff was marked with an expiration date that sadly passed over a year ago. I wasn't too heart broken since cookies weren't quite what I wanted. Instead, I reverted to a favorite on this blog: big, hearty scones, studded with dried fruit and spices. This is a version of my absolute favorite recipe, with whole wheat pastry flour, oats and buttermilk. It also contains just enough butter to make the scones flavorful, not greasy, and the buttermilk (and gentle mixing) keeps them tender. They're much better tasting that a standard healthy scone recipe, but still quite good for you. My favorite thing here is the contrast of the savory caraway seeds, which you usually find in rye bread, with the sweet pastry. It's a nice little surprise flavor that's still well-balanced. While sweet soda breads often contain raisins or currants, there are endless variations, and I swear I've seen ginger in the mix at some point. I used very finely chopped candied ginger and really liked the hit of spice and chewy texture. Are you making anything special or traditional for St. Patrick's Day? Tell me about it in the comments! Irish Soda Scones This is an adaptation of my favorite scone recipe that I developed for a story on NPR.org. Click over for a cherry-walnut variation. If you can't find candied ginger, substitute 1/2 to 1 tsp ground; do not use fresh ginger. Coarse sugar is a pretty, simple topping that requires no extra work, but a vanilla and powdered sugar glaze would be delicious too. Makes 8 3/4 cup oats, quick-cooking or regular 1 3/4 cups whole wheat pastry flour (210 g) 1/4 cup sugar 2 tsp baking powder 1/2 tsp baking soda 3/4 tsp salt 1/2 cup buttermilk 1 large egg 3/4 tsp vanilla extract 6 Tbs cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes 1/3 cup raisins 3 Tbs candied ginger, finely chopped 1 tsp caraway seeds Coarse sugar (such as turbinado) for sprinkling Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a large bowl, whisk together the oats, flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt. In a separate bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, egg and vanilla. Work the cold butter cubes into the flour mixture with a pastry blender, a fork or your fingers until you have a loose mixture with some chunks of butter remaining. Add the egg mixture to the flour mixture and stir for a few seconds to barely moisten the flour. Add the raisins, ginger and caraway seeds, and stir gently just until ingredients are combined. Do not over mix. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and pat it into a thick disk. Dust lightly with flour and roll it into a circle, about 8 inches in diameter and 3/4-inch thick. With a large, floured knife, cut dough into 8 wedges and place on prepared baking sheet, about 1 inch apart. Sprinkle with coarse sugar. Bake for 13 to 15 minutes, or until bottoms are golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool on baking sheet for 5 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Mini Goat Cheese Biscuits with Lavender

2010-03-04T18:03:00.002-06:00

I recently had friends over for Sunday brunch. Since I love making breakfast food, it was the perfect opportunity to go a little overboard. When it's just Mike and I, I need to restrain myself. We can't eat a frittata, a sweet quick bread, a savory quick bread and crepes all by ourselves. But throw a party and suddenly that menu is totally acceptable. Dreaming up various complimentary combinations of biscuits, muffins and scones was half the fun. Since I actually have other things to do besides bake breakfast breads, I ended up relying on a lovely friend who contributed some delicious banana bread, and whipped up these mini biscuits myself the night before. I froze the unbaked, cut biscuits overnight, then slid them into the oven just before the guests were scheduled to arrive. That left me plenty of time to wrangle a fantastic potato frittata, and make the house smell all nice and brunchy. These are cute and irresistible--who can turn down a mini biscuit? The flavors of the cheese and herbs are subtle enough not to put off traditionalist, although you could increase the amount of cheese by an ounce and up the quantity of herbs if you want to. Dried lavender buds are on the large side, and I didn't want people getting chewy pieces of herbs stuck in their teeth, so Mike crushed them in our mortar, along with the thyme. The biscuits were great with our brunch spread and equally tasty when we ate the leftovers with curried carrot soup the next day. And finally, two words: honey butter. Mini Goat Cheese Biscuits with Lavender If you can't find dried lavender (get it online here), substitute other herbs like marjoram, mint or rosemary. Fresh herbs will also work--chop finely and double (at least) the quantity. I'd try fresh mint, thyme or chives. Makes about 20 1/2 tsp dried lavender 1/2 tsp dried thyme 1 3/4 cups whole wheat pastry flour (210 g) 1/2 cup medium stone ground cornmeal (66 g) 1 Tbs baking powder 1/2 tsp baking soda 1 tsp coarse salt 6 Tbs unsalted butter, cut into cubes and chilled 3/4 cup lowfat buttermilk 3 oz. goat cheese, crumbled (keep chilled until ready to use) 1 egg, for egg wash (optional) 1 tsp milk, for egg wash (optional) Preheat oven to 425 F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Gently crush the lavender and thyme in a mortar (or place in a Ziploc bag and crush with a rolling pin). Whisk the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda, salt and a crushed herbs together in a large bowl. Add the butter and toss to coat it with flour. Using a pastry blender, a fork or your fingers, work the butter into the flour mixture until you have a coarse meal with visible chunks of butter. Take care not to over mix. Add the buttermilk and mix gently with a spatula until most of the flour is moistened. Fold in the goat cheese, stirring just until all the flour is moistened (take care not to over mix). Turn dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and sprinkle lightly with more flour. Flatten dough with your hand and roll it out into a 1/2-inch thick disk. Flour a small (about 2-inch diameter) biscuit cutter and stamp out as many biscuits as you can, pushing firmly into the dough and flouring the biscuit cutter each time. Transfer biscuits to prepared baking sheet. Quickly re-roll the dough scraps and make more biscuits until you've used it all up. If using egg wash to create a shiny surface, beat the egg and milk together in a small bowl. With a pastry brush, lightly coat the top of each biscuit. Bake 8 to 12 minutes, or until puffed and golden brown on the bottom. Serve right away. To make ahead: After you’ve applied the egg wash (if using), slide the baking sheet into the freezer. Leave overnight, bake directly from the freezer (do not defrost), and add an extra minute or two to baking time. To store up to one month, wait until biscuits are completely frozen and transfer to a zip top bag.