Ana-White.com

Fillman Platform Twin Platform Bed

Ana White — Thu, 23 Feb 2012 17:39:22 +0000

About Project

How to build a platform bed for $30. Inspired by Pottery Barn Kids Fillmore Platform Bed.

Author Notes:

$30.

Lunch Check

For the cost of picking up lunch, your kids can be sleeping on real wood beds. Stylish platform real wood beds at that!

And if Whitney, a stay at home mother of five, yes that's right, 5 - can build TWO OF THESE beds, we can all find the time to get our kids off mattresses on the floor!

Time to Build!

You can find the headboard plans here. And today's plan is for the bed frame itself, which can be used independent of a headboard.

More Details and Photos

And make sure you check out Whitney's post here on the bed for lots more photos! Thanks Whitney!

Dimensions

Dimensions:

Dimensions are shown above.

Materials and Tools

Shopping List:

3 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
1 – 2x3 @ 2 feet long (or use 2x4)
2 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
3 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long
1x2 or 1x3 slats or box spring
2 1/2" screws or 2 1/2" pocket hole screws

Tools:

measuring tape

square

safety glasses

hearing protection

drill

circular saw

Cut List

Cut List:

2 – 2x4 @ 76 1/2"
2 – 2x4 @ 39”
4 – 2x3 @ 5 1/2" (can use 2x4s here as well)
2 – 2x2 @ 70 1/2"
2 – 1x3 @ 75”
1 – 1x3 @ 44”
1x3 @ 39” for slats (not accounted for in cut list)

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Step 1

So we just build a 2x4 box. Easy peasy!

Check to make sure the box is square by taking diagonals from opposite corners.

Step 2

Now add the legs. You can use 2x4s here in absence of 2x3s. You can also taper the legs if you want - or even use decorative feet.

Step 3

These are the cleats for supporting the slats. Attach with predrilled holes and 2 1/2" screws.

Step 4

Now we are going to start adding the lip to give the platform bed that platform feel. Make sure you glue and screw down.

Step 5

Then add the footer trim. Also - for those of you using a pocket hole jig, it may make sense to attach the side top trim to the footer top trim on underside first, then attach the entire piece to top of bed frame.

Step 6

And now just add the slats. Depending on your mattress quality, you may be able to get away with less slats.

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions:

Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Fillman Platform Headboard

Ana White — Tue, 21 Feb 2012 07:28:38 +0000

About Project

How to make platform bed inspired by Pottery Barn Kids Fillmore Platform Bed. Free easy step by step plans include diagrams, shopping list and cutting list.

Author Notes:

Yes, you read that right.

$150 to build both of these beds.

Remember a bit back when Whitney built this amazing bed for her son?

Plans for headboard and bed frame linked.

Well, Whitney's daughters loved the bed so much, they wanted their own!

After a little DIY-ta-da! magic, here's what Whitney made for $150 - for two beds!

Stop on over and check out many many more photos and read from Whitney on how she finished this bed. Today's plan is for the headboard. We'll be adding the twin platform bed plan this week.

Dimensions

Dimensions:

Dimensions are shown above.

Materials and Tools

Shopping List:

1/2 sheet 3/4" plywood or MDF
1 – 1x2 @ 4 feet long
1 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long
1 – 2x3 @ 8 feet long
1 – 2x4 @ 4 feet long
1 – small moulding @ 10 feet long
1 1/4" and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws
1 1/4" and 3/4" finish nails

3/4 inch finish nails

1 1/4 inch finish nails

1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws

2 1/2 inch pocket hole screws

wood glue

wood filler

120 grit sandpaper

Tools:

measuring tape

square

pencil

safety glasses

hearing protection

Kreg Jig™

drill

circular saw

compound miter saw

nailer

sander

Cut List

Cut List:

1 – 3/4” plywood @ 39” x 32”
1 – 1x2 @ 39”
1 – 1x3 @ 39”
2 – 2x3 @ 43 1/4"
1 – 1x3 @ 45 1/2"
1 – 2x4 @ 39”

MOULDING
2 – 3/4" wide moulding @ 22” (long point to long point, both ends mitered at 45 degrees off square, ends are NOT parallel)
2 – 3/4" wide moulding @ 33” (long point to long point, both ends mitered at 45 degrees off square, ends are NOT parallel)

General Instructions

Step 1

On the back side of your plywood panels, drill 3/4" pocket holes around side and top edges. This is for attaching in later steps the legs and the header.

Step 2

On the front side of the bed, attach with 1 1/4" finish nails and glue your panel trim. TIP: you can actually clamp trim in place, and then nail from back to hide nail holes and avoid pocket hole locations.

Step 3

Next, add the legs with glue and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. Legs are flush to top of top panel trim and should match the thickness of the panel + trim.

Step 4

Keep the header flush to the back, with even overhangs on ends, and attach with 1 1/4" pocket holes and wood glue.

Step 5

Drill on each end of the bottom support 1 1/2" pocket holes. Attach to legs. You can use this board to attach the bed frame to.

Step 6

Now the final step! Cut out trim pieces and carefully position. It's a great idea to measure and mark out trim. Attach with glue and 3/4" finish nails.

We will also post plans for the twin platform bed part later this week. It is designed to work with this bed as well.

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions:

Modular Bar Wine Grid Hutch

Ana White — Fri, 17 Feb 2012 18:24:59 +0000

About Project

How to build wine grid hutch inspired by Pottery Barn Modular Build Your Own Bar.

Author Notes:

My sister moved away from Alaska a few years ago, and she keeps saying she wants to come back up in August. Because she wants to go blueberry picking.

We are quite blessed up here in Alaska, with patches of blueberries for all, to pick to your hearts content - or at least your hearts health.

Each winter, I say this is the winter that I will take the gallons and gallons of blueberries I've picked and make wine. Has anyone every made blueberry wine? Lord knows, I've quit holding my breath when I use a saw, but I'm still afraid to try my hand at wine making. I feel like the process is done blindfolded.

And I must say, building a wine hutch is less intimidating than actually making the wine to fill it up for me. But wouldn't that be quite the conversation piece, a wall of wine storage, filled with wine you picked and made yourself?

Gina and I worked together to create the wine base - check out her tips on the breadboard pullout - and the hutch with stemware holders. I'd also like to build on these plans and add a wine grid hutch.

Wine Wedding Shower

On a side note, one of my favorite bridal shower ideas is to build a wine storage piece as a gift from the hostess, and then throw a shower asking guests to bring their most favorite bottle of wine (or two).

Dimensions

Dimensions:

Dimensions are shown above. Holds 32 wine bottles.

Materials and Tools

Shopping List:

Approximately 1/2 sheet of 3/4" plywood ripped intro strips 11 1/2" wide, referred to as 1x12 boards. Since you will most likely be building the base, you may be able to share plywood with the base.
1 - sheet 1/4" plywood
2 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x3 @ 2 feet long
1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long

1 1/4 inch finish nails

1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws

wood glue

wood filler

120 grit sandpaper

Tools:

measuring tape

square

pencil

safety glasses

hearing protection

Kreg Jig™

drill

nailer

sander

Cut List

Cut List:

2 - 1x12 @ 34" (sides)
4 - 1x2 @ 11 1/2" (trim)
4 - 2x2 @ 34" (legs)
1 - 1x12 @ 14 3/4" (shelf)
3 - 1x2 @ 14 3/4" (shelf trim and top support)
1 - 1x12 @ 17 3/4" (top)
1 - 1x2 @ 17 3/4" (top trim)
1 - 1x3 @ 17 3/4" (top front trim)
3 - 1/4" plywood @ 13 3/4" x 33 1/4"
7 - 1/4" plywood @ 13 3/4" x 14 3/4"
1 - 1/4" plywood @ 17 3/4" x 34 3/4"

General Instructions

Step 1

This project is shown in PureBond Formaldehyde Free Hardwood Plywood. Gina's base is also built with PureBond. You can use 1x12s, but it will change the measurements slightly depending on your 1x12 widths. Make sure you measure the width of your 1x12s and adjust accordingly. This plan assumes you have ripped 3/4" plywood into strips 11 1/2" wide.

Drill 3/4" pocket holes along side and top edges for attaching top and legs in later steps of side 1x12s.

Then on the outsides, nail on 1x2 trim at top and bottom with 1 1/4" finish nails and glue, outside edges are flush.

Step 2

Now attach legs to the sides with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and wood glue.

Step 3

Next, build your bottom shelf with 3/4" pocket holes and attach to sides in the same manner, flush to the bottom.

Step 4

For the header, attach flush to front as shown in diagram.

Step 5

Next, build your top as you did the shelf. Then attach through predrilled pocket holes in sides with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 6

I really liked what Gina did here

She clamped the wine storage pieces together and cut all at once. Very smart.

Remember, you will need to cut three tall dividers.

Step 7

And seven short dividers.

Step 8

Slide together to form your wine grids.

Step 9

Then insert in hutch. To make it easy to remove later on, make the small shelf pieces removeable from the front. Then you can pull the shelves out, collapse the tall dividers and pull out through the front.

Step 10

Then finally, nail the back on with glue.

You must secure the hutch to the base to avoid tipping hazards and also a stud in the wall behind the hutch.

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions:

special thanks to the kind folks over at PureBond for allowing us to use their wood grains in this project plan.

No Sew Cayden Nailhead Bar Height Stool

Ana White — Thu, 16 Feb 2012 18:51:11 +0000

About Project

How to build a no sew nailhead leather upholstered stool. Free step by step plans. This plan shows how to build with pocket holes.

Author Notes:

It only seems right that after putting together plans for the bench height and counter height stool that we also add plans for bar height stools, featuring Jaime's no sew nailhead upholstered top. Friends don't let friends spend $300 on a stool that they could make for $30. What if you need 4? Don't worry, I've got your back. Or at least seating for the backside hehe ...

Speaking of friendship, I wanted to tell you something.

This winter, I've really been struggling. We've gone through one of the coldest winters on record, so cold that for six weeks we could barely leave the house because our vehicles become unreliable. And I've been working very hard on a book of plans due out this fall with Potter Craft/Random House that has kept me sitting behind a computer screen for long hours, day after day.

Grace asked me the other day why I haven't been building. My preschooler noticed. All these years, it's as if I've taken for granted how building can nurture your soul and awaken your creative spirit. How even the darkest of winter blues can be brightened when you have a goal that can better your family's life.

Anyway, I digress - what I really wanted to say, is despite struggling this year with weather, a massive amount of computer work, and not having time for my sure bet creative outlet, I found myself smiling at the computer screen. And laughing out loud, not just typing LOL.

My husband asked me what I was grinning about, and I said, "I'm not!"

Uh, okay.

I was grinning ear to ear reading your Facebook comments and posts.

I just want you to know that when you write me, when you email me, when you post a project, even if I can't respond, it is making a difference in my life and giving me inspiration to keep at it. I am very appreciative.

Thank you so much. You are lovely.

Dimensions

Dimensions:

Dimensions are shown above. Suitable for Bar Height.

Materials and Tools

Shopping List:

1 - 2x12 @ 18 1/2" long
1 - 2x2 @ 10 feet long
1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
2" foam pad, at least 18 1/2" x 11 1/2"
batting to cover foam pad
staples
leather or fabric
decorative nails (available at most hobby stores)
This plan is shown built with pocket holes. To build without pocket holes, please review this plan

1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws

2 1/2 inch pocket hole screws

wood glue

wood filler

Tools:

measuring tape

square

pencil

safety glasses

hearing protection

Kreg Jig™

drill

compound miter saw

sander

level

Cut List

Cut List:

1 - 2x12 @ 18 1/2"
4 - 2x2 @ 27 1/2" (long point to short point, ends cut parallel at a 5 degree double bevel)
2 - 1x2 @ 8 7/8" (long point to long point, ends NOT parallel, ends cut at 5 degrees off square)
2 - 1x2 @ 14 3/8" (long point to long point, ends NOT parallel, ends cut at 5 degrees off square)
8 - 1x2 @ 1/2" - one end cut at 5 degrees off square

General Instructions

Step 1

To cut legs, set your miter saw for a five degree double bevel - meaning the saw cuts at a 5 degree angle and 5 degree bevel at the same time. Cut the end of the 2x2 off, as close as possible to the end. Then without rotating the 2x2, slide down 27 1/2" and cut. This is one leg. Simply slide the 2x2 down another 27 1/2" and cut again. This is another leg. Continue until you have all four legs.

Once you have all four legs, position as the legs would be on the stool. Mark inside corners. Trust me - once you start building, it will be difficult to judge which way the leg angles go.

Step 2

As noted earlier, this plan is designed for Kreg Jig users, but if you do not own a pocket hole jig, no worries, the bench height plan has the step by step on how to put together this stool with countersunk screws.

The stretchers are a little tricky because the distance they are measured up is from the floor, not up the side of the angled leg. The best way to do this is to position legs against a flat square edge. Elevate the stretcher on perhaps a piece of 3/8" plywood. Then adjust until the distance between base and bottom of stretcher is correct. Then attach. Take your time here, being off can result in a crooked stool.

Step 3

Now it will even get a little trickier because you are working with a 3D project. Just take your time and get it right.

Step 4

Mark the bottom edge of the seat underside as shown in diagram and attach the seat.

Step 5

And then finally, attach the little false ends by applying glue and then taping the ends on until they dry. I recommend blue painter's tape as it will be easy to remove.

Be very carefully not to let glue drip on the exposed wood. Dried glue doesn't buddy up with stain very well.

Step 6

For the upholstery step, Jaime has created a super awesome no sew tutorial that I recommend you hopping over and following.

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions:

Vintage Storage Dining Table

Ana White — Wed, 15 Feb 2012 19:31:17 +0000

About Project

How to build a vintage style storage dining table inspired by Pottery Barn Cameron Fixed Trestle Dining Table.

Author Notes:

Well, I'm a little envious.

I drew this table up a while back, loving the vintage charm of it, and needing the extra storage under the table and in the pass through drawer.

But I showed it to the Ram and he said, "that table is awful!"

So please, brag and share your table when you build it!

Dimensions

Dimensions:

Dimensions are shown above.

Materials and Tools

Shopping List:

1 - sheet 3/4" plywood ripped into strips 19", 22" and 5 1/2"
1 - 1x2 @ 4 feet long
1 - 2x2 @ 6 feet long
1 - 1x4 @ 6 feet long
50 x 36 tabletop
2 - knobs or handles

1 1/4 inch screws

2 inch screws

wood glue

wood filler

120 grit sandpaper

primer

wood conditioner

paint

paint brush

Tools:

measuring tape

square

pencil

safety glasses

hearing protection

drill

circular saw

jigsaw

sander

countersink drill bit

Cut List

Cut List:

2 - 3/4" plywood @ 19" x 29 1/2"
4 - 1x6 @ 5 3/4"
2 - 1x2 @ 17 1/2"
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 22" x 27"
2 - 1x6 @ 36"
2 - 2x2 @ 36"
1 - Tabletop 50" x 36" (planked or you can use plywood trimmed or edge banded)
2 - 1x4 @ 17 1/2"
2 - 1x4 @ 16 3/4"
1 - 1/4" or 3/4" plywood @ 17 1/2" x 18 1/4"
2 - 1x6 @ 18 1/4"

Cutting Instructions:

When you cut your panels from plywood, consider ripping into strips 19" and 22" wide, and then cutting your pieces from those strips. This will ensure greater accuracy. To save on materials, consider cutting scraps into 5 1/2" wide widths and using these strips to replace 1x6 boards in plan.

General Instructions

Step 1

You can use either 3/4" pocket holes and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue or 2" screws to attach. Keep outside edges flush and square.

TIP: If you are using pocket holes, go through the entire plan and mark all pocket hole locations and get drilling before any assembly.

Step 2

Next, add the drawer guides. Take a second to ensure the drawer area is square, as you will only have a 1/4" of total play around the drawer.

Step 3

Attach top of storage box to sides.

Step 4

Take your time drawing carefully out your end patterns. The ends do not have to match my suggestions, but they do have to match each other. Once you have one cut, use it as a pattern to cut the other. Clamp the two cut ends together and sand all rough edges until the two match. Then attach to the center storage area with screws and glue.

Step 5

Take your 36" long 1x6s and first mark a line 2 3/8" from the top, all the way down. Next mark 7" from the outsides. Trust me - this is easier done when the board is still cut square.

Then mark out the pattern, considering the bottom is curved downward, and cut with jigsaw. Clamp the two pieces together and sand until they match and are smooth. Attach to ends as shown in diagram with 1 1/4" screws.

Set the base aside.

Step 6

You can make your tabletop from just about anything. The best solution is joining hardwood boards together on the underside with 3/4" pocket holes and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. Another option is to use 1/2 sheet of hardwood plywood, cut to 47" x 33". Then attach edge to edge 1x2 frame around all sides to create a sturdy and decorative wood edge to the tabletop. Would be beautiful in Purebond Plywood for sure!

Round edges of 2x2s to smooth and attach to underside of table as noted in diagram.

Step 7

Now the tabletop should just fit right over the base. Attach through sides into the 2x2 supports with 2" screws.

Step 8

For this drawer, I just went the simplest possible route, figuring the drawer is not high use and wanted to keep it simple. This drawer is just a 1x4 box with plywood on the bottom.

Step 9

Make sure the drawer fits in the opening. I like to rub the drawer bottoms with candle wax to make for a smoother slide.

Step 10

And then just position the drawer faces over the drawer boxes, shimming so there is an even 1/8" gap all the way around, and attach with 1 1/4" finish nails. Then also attach from inside with 1 1/4" screws. TIP: Attach hardware first to drawer face so you don't have to drill through a second layer of 1xs to access the hardware screw - depending on your type/style of hardware.

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions:

Turned Leg Coffee Table

Ana White — Mon, 13 Feb 2012 21:45:34 +0000

About Project

How to build a turned leg coffee table. Step by step plan included video tutorial to build coffee table.

Author Notes:

Hello everyone and Happy Monday!

I know we've all got a wedding or two to attend this summer, and wanted to get started on some economical plans that you can build and gift. Instead of going to the ATM a few minutes before the wedding reception, what about spending a weekend building a coffee table?

And for those of you asking for a turned leg coffee table, or just an updated Tryde Coffee table plan - well, we went the extra bit and made a video for you!

This coffee table is very very easy to build. I took me about three hours in total, probably take you less if you aren't being watched by a camera! I used standard farmhouse legs purchased from Osbourne Wood, but if you watch the video, at the end, you will see a coffee table made with smaller legs. It's the same plan, just cut the aprons a tad longer to make up for the smaller (and yes cheaper and available at local hardware stores) turned coffee table legs.

Oh - and OF COURSE you can use the ideas presented in this video to build a Farmhouse Table with turned legs as well! I'd either use a 2x thick top or add a few under table supports because no handmade farmhouse table we make is going to sag, right? Just remember that a standard dining table height is 30".

Dimensions

Dimensions:

Dimensions are shown above.

Materials and Tools

Shopping List:

4 - 3 1/2" turned coffee table legs
6 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long

1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws

wood glue

wood filler

120 grit sandpaper

Tools:

measuring tape

square

pencil

safety glasses

hearing protection

Kreg Jig™

drill

Cut List

Cut List:

7 - 1x4 @ 45" long (tabletop boards)
2 - 1x4 @ 24 1/2" (breadboard ends)
2 - 1x4 @ 16 1/2"
2 - 1x4 @ 41"

General Instructions

Step 1

The key to a great tabletop is making sure all of your tabletop boards are cut to the exact length, and then joined with pocket holes from underneath. I like to clamp every screw just to make sure we are getting the smoothest edge to edge joint possible.

If you are using glue, be very careful not to let glue dry on the tabletop and stain the surface.

If your ends are not perfectly straight, there is no shame in trimming with a circular saw. It's about getting a great finished project!

Another consideration is to try to alternate the grain of the boards so the boards aren't all facing bark side up or bark side down. This is done to prevent your tabletop from warping in one direction.

Step 2

Once your main top is straight and square, drill 3/4" pocket holes on ends for attaching breadboard ends.

Step 3

Then attach breadboard ends with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. Take a second to admire your tabletop and set aside :)

Step 4

Attach legs to end aprons. I like to use a scrap piece of plywood as a spacer to elevate the apron - just makes life easier!

TIP: to avoid any screw holes on tabletop, drill 3/4" pocket holes on aprons facing upward for attaching top in later steps.

Step 5

Now we are starting to look like a table! Add the side aprons, keeping the 1/2" gap on the sides.

TIP: to avoid any screw holes on tabletop, drill 3/4" pocket holes on aprons facing upward for attaching top in later steps.

Step 6

If you drilled the pocket holes in aprons, simply attach through aprons into underside of tabletop with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. Otherwise, attach through top into aprons.

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions:

Cayden Nailhead Counter Height Stool

Ana White — Fri, 10 Feb 2012 05:40:40 +0000

About Project

How to build leather nailhead upholstered stools inspired by Pottery Barn Caden Nailhead Barstools. Free easy plans include tutorial for nailhead upholstery.

Author Notes:

After the success (and requests!) of Jaime's Cayden Nailhead Stool, of course we have to put plans together for the Counterheight stool.

For more photos, check out Jaime's post as well.

Dimensions

Dimensions:

Dimensions are shown above. Cushion will add height. Suitable for counterheight use.

Materials and Tools

Shopping List:

1 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - 2x12 @ 18 1/2" long
Use either 2 1/2" and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws OR 3" trim screws countersunk

Tools:

measuring tape

square

pencil

safety glasses

hearing protection

Kreg Jig™

drill

compound miter saw

countersink drill bit

Cut List

Cut List:

1 - 2x12 @ 18 1/2"
4 - 2x2 @ 22 3/8" (long point to short point, ends cut parallel at a 5 degree double bevel)
2 - 1x2 @ 9 3/8" (long point to long point, ends NOT parallel, ends cut at 5 degrees off square)
2 - 1x2 @ 14" (long point to long point, ends NOT parallel, ends cut at 5 degrees off square)
8 - 1x2 @ 1/2" - one end cut at 5 degrees off square

General Instructions

Step 1

Set your compound miter saw to a 5 degree bevel and 5 degree angle to create the 5 degree double bevel. Cut the end of the 2x2 off, as close as possible to the end. Measure down the outside edge 22 3/8" and mark and cut, without rotating the board. Repeat, simply moving the board down and cutting, without rotating the board, until you have all four legs cut.

Then position legs so they all point inward as shown in diagram. Mark inside corner. This will save much confusion later on.

Step 2

You can either use 3/4" pocket holes and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws or 3" countersunk screws. Position side rungs and attach in place with glue and screws.

Step 3

Next assemble the stool base by adding the remaining side stretchers.

Step 4

Add the top by either screwing through top (will be covered by upholstery) or using 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and wood glue.

Step 5

These little false ends are very handy for covering up screw holes. Trick from Jaime? Glue on with very strong glue and tape in place to allow drying. Careful to not let glue drip, as these areas will resist stain.

Step 6

For a full step by step tutorial on upholstering with leather, check out Jaime's post.

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions:

Bristol Outdoor Lounge Chair

Ana White — Thu, 09 Feb 2012 18:43:50 +0000

About Project

Free plans to build outdoor lounge chair inspired by Restoration Hardware Belvedere Chair.

Author Notes:

Ringing in at no less than $1065 before cushions, how's a girl going to get the sleek style and contemporary comfort of wood outdoor lounge chairs like Restoration Hardware's Belevedere Chair?

I see it two ways.

You can dream about it.

Or you can DIY it.

With the help of my friend Shane today, I am so excited to introduce plans for a more contemporary outdoor lounge chair.

This chair fits the Restoration Hardware Belvedere Cushions, some colors on sale right now.

And Shane, who built and photographed this chair - thank you! - also has plans for a matching coffee table up at her site, Old Paint Design. Make sure you stop over and say thanks and check out more plans.

And of course, the step by step plans to make this chair follow.

Dimensions

Dimensions:

Dimensions are shown above.

Materials and Tools

Shopping List:

1 - 1x8 @ 10 feet long
6 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
1 - 2x2 @ 6 feet long

2 inch screws

1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws

wood glue

wood filler

120 grit sandpaper

Tools:

measuring tape

square

pencil

safety glasses

hearing protection

Kreg Jig™

drill

compound miter saw

sander

level

countersink drill bit

Cut List

Cut List:

2 - 1x8 @ 24 1/2"
2 - 1x4 @ 9 1/4"
2 - 1x4 @ 21"
2 - 1x8 @ 28 1/4"
4 - 1x3 @ 2" (You can use 1x4 scraps as well)
2 - 1x4 @ 22 3/4" (longest point, one end cut at 15 degree bevel - see diagram)
5 - 1x4 @ 24 1/2"
2 - 1x4 @ 32 3/8" (longest point, one end cut at 15 degree bevel - see diagram)
2 - 2x2 @ 28 1/4"
7 - 1x4 @ 30"

General Instructions

Step 1

Build the back as shown above. Clamp joints for the smoothest joint.

Step 2

Build front frame as you did the back.

Step 3

Now attach the front and back to create the seat box.

Step 4

Step 5

Fill in the legs to make them look like full legs.

Step 6

Now build the back as shown in diagram. Remember the bottom is angled to create a back angle for the chair.

Step 7

Now attach the back. For sure, it's going to be flimsy at this point.

Step 8

The arms will support considerably.

Step 9

Attach cleats. You can also angle cleats downward and backward for an inclinded seat - some prefer for comfort.

Step 10

Finally, just add seat slats and cushions!

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions:

No Sew Cayden Nailhead Stool

Ana White — Wed, 08 Feb 2012 18:15:42 +0000

About Project

Free easy plans to build No Sew Upholstered Stools inspired by Pottery Barn Caden Nailhead stools.

Author Notes:

I am so excited today to share with you plans for an upholstered rustic stool, very much inspired by Pottery Barn's Caden Nailhead stool, ringing up for as much as $230 for leather, made with pine legs. My question for you is what if you needed four?

Some of you may be fortunate enough to just shell out the cash, but for me and Jaime (who made and upholstered this stool), spending $1000 on four stools is just too much. So what to do?

DIY of course!

You'll find the plans following, with step by step instructions on building the stool itself. I hope you also take a second to visit Jaime and thank her for sharing photos and also her step by step tutorial on the no sew nailhead upholstered top.

PS - If you want the counter or bar height stools, make sure you holler so I know!

Dimensions

Dimensions:

Dimensions are shown above. Stool is standard chair/bench height.

Materials and Tools

Shopping List:

1 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - 2x12 @ 18 1/2" long
Either use 1 1/4" pocket hole screws or 2 3/4" trim screws countersunk

Tools:

measuring tape

square

pencil

safety glasses

hearing protection

Kreg Jig™

drill

compound miter saw

sander

countersink drill bit

Cut List

Cut List:

4 – 2x2 @ 16 3/8” both ends cut parallel to each other, 5 degree bevel/5 degree angle off square, short point to long point
2 – 1x2 @ 8 5/8” Long point to long point, both ends cut at 5 degrees off square, NOT parallel to each other
2 – 1x2 @ 14 7/8” Long point to long point, both ends cut at 5 degrees off square, NOT parallel to each other
1 – 2x12 @ 18 1/2”

General Instructions

Step 1

Marking Legs

To cut legs accurately, set miter saw for a five degree bevel and five degree angle. Cut just enough off the end of the 2x2 to cut the angle into the end (less than 1”). Then just slide the board down 16 3/8” (long point to short point, so one end to the next along the edge) and cut. Slide down 16 3/8” and cut again. The slide and cut two more times until all four of your legs are cut. Once cut, line up so legs splay outward as shown in diagram. Mark the inside corners. With a five degree bevel/angle, you’ll be glad you did this – it can be hard to tell what way the legs go!

Step 2

First Side Stretchers

Lay a board – even just the seat – down on your work surface. With the inside corners of legs facing upward and inward, rest on work surface, meeting up with the gray board. NOTE: on back edge, will not meet up because of angle cuts. Measure down and place top stretcher. Mark joints clearly, marking outside joint as well. Predrill holes – pocket holes would be great here – and attach with screws and glue. TIP: Check the bottom distance and top to make sure your legs are properly positioned. Repeat on opposite side.

Step 3

Side Stretchers

It’s going to get a little tougher here because now we are working with a 3d stool base. And easy way to do this – especially if you are making multiples – is to cut a scrap 2x board (how about leftovers from the seat boards?) at 5 5/8” long. Then you can rest under the stretcher as you prepare your joint. Predrill holes – again, pocket holes would be great on the insides – and attach with screws. If you are using countersunk screws, you will need some long ones! NOTE: If you are using countersunk screws, you may consider using 2x2s for the stretchers just to give you a little board to screw into. This would not change the cut list.

Step 4

Top

Mark location of legs and predrill holes. Attach with screws and glue.

Step 5

Decorative Ends

To give the stretchers the look of passing through (and bonus hide any screws or nails!) cut pieces of 1x2s ½” long or less, with one end cut at 5 degrees off square. Glue over end of stretchers, clamping in place . TIP: Painter’s tape is a great way to attach and hold in place while glue dries.

Step 6

Top Upholstery

For a step by step tutorial on the NO SEW top upholstery, please visit Jaime for complete instructions and support.

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions:

Kentwood Nightstands or End Tables

Ana White — Tue, 07 Feb 2012 18:14:04 +0000

About Project

How to build end tables or nightstands. Free simple step by step DIY plans to build nightstands inspired by Restoration Hardware Kenwood Nightstand.

Author Notes:

It's been a busy time for us in Alaska. We are emerging from hibernation.

Days before Christmas, last YEAR, temperatures dropped below -30 degrees below zero (before wind chill).

And they stayed there, sometimes even going below -50 degrees below zero. For six weeks.

For six weeks, we haven't gone outside in Alaska. My car won't start, and the truck did start, and then started blowing oil out the top of the engine.

We have cabin fever. We need fresh air.

So when the weather broke, to a balmy 10 degrees with gusts of 20 from the east, we feel like we are in tropical paradise.

So we have been spending a little time outside, catching up on things like breathing fresh air and feeling sunshine on our skin. Wonderful things that one never takes for granted in Alaska.

Today, we so greatly appreciate Whitney from Shanty2Chic for building this plan.

Remember the platform bed Whitney built for her son?

And then the gorgeous planked headboard to match?

Well, of course, equally amazing nightstand plans have to be on there way too! You can read more details and see tons more photos of Whitney's nightstands here, and of course, the plans follow.

Dimensions

Dimensions:

Dimensions are shown above.

Materials and Tools

Shopping List:

2 – 1x2 @ 8 feet long
2 – 1x4 @ 8 feet long
2 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long
¾” plywood cut into 15 ¾” strips x 20 ½” long – one required, additional for shelves optional
1 – 48” wide by at least 22” high pine wainscoting panel for sides and door
Optional ¼” plywood for back
Set of 2 2” strap hinges
Knob or handle
Magnetic clasp
1 ¼” pocket hole screws
1 ¼” finish nails
¾” finish nails
Wood glue

Tools:

measuring tape

square

pencil

safety glasses

hearing protection

drill

circular saw

nailer

sander

countersink drill bit

Cut List

Cut List:

2 – 1x2 @ 12 ¾”
2 – 1x4 @ 12 ¾”
4 – 1x2 @ 26 ¼”
2 – ¼” paneling or plywood @ 15 ¾” 21 ¾”
1 – ¾” plywood @ 15 ¾” x 20 ½” (additional for shelves)
4 – 1x3 @ 26 ¼”
2 – 1x2 @ 17”
2 – 1x4 @ 17”
4 – 1x4 @ 22 ½”
2 – 1x3 @ 16 ¾”
2 – 1x3 @ 14”
1 – ¼” paneling or plywood @ 16” x 19”

General Instructions

Step 1

You will need to build two sides. I recommend a Kreg Jig here for the easiest and best edge to edge joint.

Step 2

Then just cover the back in plywood or planking of choice. This completes to two sides.

Step 3

Now we add the bottom shelf.

Step 4

Next, build the front and back frames.

Step 5

And then attach to front and back of nightstands.

Step 6

Build the top first, then attach to top.

Step 7

Next, build the door as shown here, and attach with hinges.

Step 8

And if you want, you can add a back.

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions: