Ana-White.com

Sidewalks and Concrete Pads

Ana White — Tue, 29 May 2012 18:38:35 +0000

About Project

How to pour concrete sidewalks and outdoor pads. Step by step with photos.

Author Notes:

Are you every guilty of starting one project, getting almost done - ALMOST - and then ....

get sidetracked and start a second project?

Have you ever done that?

Oh, good, now I don't feel so bad!

Because years ago we started building a house.

And then when we were almost done - ALMOST - we thought .... hmmmmm ... wouldn't it be a good idea to build both of our Mom's a new house?

And we've been busy working on the Momplex ever since.

And our first project has been put on hold.

Now I do know better. I know that once you start a project, you HAVE to finish it before starting the next. If you get sidetracked, it's easy to loose enthusiasm and move on to the next project.

And that's exactly how I feel about our own house.

We LOVE our house. We built the entire house and garage, DIYed every single step - with the exception of the rock work on the front - one paycheck at a time over years and years.

But when we started working on the Momplex, we stopped working on our house. And a few little projects that have been on our to-do list just haven't been getting done.

So I talked to my mom and said, Mom, can we take a little break and tackle some of the projects around our house. It will delay your move in date by a little bit - but it will allow us to enjoy our own outdoor space this summer.

What do you think Mom said?

So we made a list of the projects we want done in our own yard and started by tackling the first - a concrete pad in front of the garage and sidewalks between the house and garage.

Yes, we currently live surrounded by dirt and a patchy lawn that someday we will landscape. Someday.

Someday, we will have less dirt to sweep up inside, because we will have a sidewalk between the house and garage.

Someday, we will have a concrete pad in front of the garage so I can work outside in the summer.

Someday ....

Hey, we love our Moms!

But today, it's our day!

We are pouring concrete, and I'm going to show you how -

Step 1

Remove Material

The first step is to remove material to be replaced by concrete. We have rented a skidsteer for $300 for the weekend to help out.

But this does NOT remove the need to use a shovel. Be prepared to sweat! And struggle to get out of bed the next morning.

Step 2

Check Grade

We set up a laser transit that we purchased last year to use at the Momplex to help us determine how deep to dig. It's pretty simple. The transit shoots a line exactly level 360 degrees around. You use the receiver on a measuring stick to measure up or down from this line to find your desired height.

Step 3

Ready for Forms

For the entire area to be poured in concrete, all material is removed and grade checked using the transit. We have the pad and sidewalks also sloping for water drainage. We are ready to build forms!

Step 4

Finding Corners

We know where the concrete pad starts and stops on the garage, and we know the garage is square. And we know how big the pad is going to be - 28x20. So we can calculate the diagonals out with Pythagorean's Theorem - you know the A squared + B squared = C squared one? - and use all this information to find the remaining two corners of the pad.

So first we find those garage side point and mark with a Sharpie.

And then using all those things that we do know, we find the points and pound stakes in.

We can adjust the stakes a little later on to make sure we are exactly square before we pour.

Step 5

Building Forms

Now comes the part I like and am familiar with :) boards of course! We use 2x4s to build forms to hold the concrete in.

First 2x4s are layed out between the known corners. We splice 2x4s together to reach long distances with plywood pieces.

Then concrete stakes are pounded into the ground next to the forms.

The forms are nailed to the concrete stakes. We can then adjust the height of the forms to meet grade by pounding down on the concrete stakes.

This is done all the way around the forms

And we use the transit to check heights and adjust heights by pounding stakes down as needed.

Step 6

Bringing in Reinforcement

Now the concrete is going to need something to keep it together. We are going to use wire mesh. It comes in really awkward to handle rolls 5 feet wide by 150 feet long.

We lay the wire mesh down and tie it to concrete dobbies to elevate the mesh into the concrete.

Step 7

Divide and Conquer

Now we will need something to guide us in making sure the concrete is level all the way across. So we divide up the pour into three sections.

And then we call the concrete truck!

Step 8

Pouring Concrete

Because we will need a whole truck load of concrete, we are not handmixing today. The concrete truck pours in the first section.

And a screed board is used to level the concrete.

Along we go ... one section at a time ....

We have help today - Grandpa Tim and the Ram's cousin Jared. When you pour, plan on having 3-4 people to help out.

The screed board is two 2x4s put together.

When all the sections are poured, the dividers are removed.

And the void is filled in with a smaller 2x4, working backwards.

Step 9

Finishing

Once the concrete is poured, it's time to finish. First up, the concrete is bull floated.

And the edges are scraped clean

Followed by a special edging trowel used to create those smooth sidewalk edges.

Up here in Alaska where ice is a problem, we did not want a smooth finish. So we broomed the top of the concrete.

NOTE: If you are pouring sidewalks, consider also creating break lines in the sidewalks - we will have to cut ours in because of the size of the garage pad.

Step 10

Signing

And of course we have to sign the concrete!

Littlest to biggest ....

And Grace wanted to add one more thing to the concrete.

We had just watched the American Girl Movie about Kit Kittredge - which we enjoyed greatly. And Grace had an idea.

The hobos during the Great Depression had a special language they used to help other hobos made up of different signs. One house had a fish bone scratched on it's fence - meaning good garbage. Other signs were used to warm of danger.

And a cat meant a nice family lived there.

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions:

Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Patrick's Primitive Bench

Ana White — Fri, 25 May 2012 20:03:06 +0000

About Project

How to build primitive style benches! Free easy plans from Ana-White.com

Author Notes:

Yay! You loved the video on this bench and matching farmhouse table as much as I did!!!!!

And I MUST say, I want a Patrick Router Table too! We'll have to come up with a plan!

And Patrick also is sharing the super sturdy and easy bench plans that compliment this farmhouse table so well. I love the idea of mixing up the benches so those GORGEOUS farmhouse legs are not competing with ANYTHING!!!!!

Patrick also built this set of benches and table a while back with a little different leg style. Beautiful, beautiful!

Some of you asked about the farmhouse table legs - the kind folks at Osbourne Wood supplied these legs - we've used Osbourne Wood in the book too - and have always been pleased with the quality and price of their table legs. So definitely check them out!

I hope you have LOTS of DIY planned for this weekend! Now that we have the roof on the Momplex, we've been working on a few projects around our own home, and let me just say, it feels good to be so soar in the morning that you can barely get out of bed! Outdoor projects will do that to ya!

Enjoy your weekend! Hope to see lots of projects from you next week!

And one more time, a HUGE HUGE thank you to Patrick Hosey and Gabriel Gallant for inspiring us all with this plan and beautiful video!

Dimensions

Dimensions:

Dimensions are shown above.

Materials and Tools

Shopping List:

1 - 10' 1x12 board
1 - 10' 1x4 board

1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws

wood glue

Tools:

measuring tape

square

pencil

safety glasses

hearing protection

Kreg Jig™

drill

circular saw

jigsaw

sander

Cut List

Cut List:

1- 1x12 @ 64"
3 - 1x12 @ 16"
2 - 1x4 @ 58 1/2"

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Step 1

Attach legs to top with 2" top overhangs.

NOTE: It will be much easier to cut any decorative pattern from legs BEFORE assembly. Make cuts and sand rough edges so all legs match exactly.

Step 2

Then add side aprons.

Step 3

Followed by center support legs.

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions:

Farmhouse Dining Table with Turned Legs

Ana White — Thu, 24 May 2012 18:05:32 +0000

Project Video

Plans Used in Video

Farmhouse Table with Turned Legs

Turned Leg Farmhouse Table

Ana White — Thu, 24 May 2012 17:41:14 +0000

About Project

Build a farmhouse table with turned legs! Free plans from Ana-White.com

Author Notes:

Why do we make our own furniture?

I make furniture to save money.

I make furniture because sometimes that's the only way I can get exactly what my family needs.

But not too often do I talk about the REAL reason I make furniture.

I make furniture simple because I love making furniture.

Sometimes with so much going on, hurrying to try and get plans out to you, I forget this. I forget that building is a beautiful thing, and the process is just as important as the product. That the story behind each joint, each hand sanded board, is what really makes the piece.

You have been asking for a Farmhouse Table with turned legs plan for years now. One of our kind readers, Patrick Hosey volunteered to build a farmhouse table with turned legs for you. And he worked with Gabriel Gallant to create a video of the story behind building.

I teared up watching this video. Because this is why I love building. It's not just about saving money and getting a table. It's about the things in your life having meaning behind them. That someone took their time to build something for you.

And this table has quite a story to tell.

Enjoy building your projects as much as you enjoy using your projects.

This video was created by Gabriel Gallant with music by Patrick Hosey. Thank you Gabe and Patrick for the beautiful video.

The beautiful table legs are contributed from Osbourne Wood.

Dimensions

Dimensions:

Dimensions are shown above.

Materials and Tools

Shopping List:

4 - Portsmouth Large Dining Table Legs from Osbourne Wood

4 - 1x10 boards @ 8 feet long (save scraps to use for benches!)

2 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long

1 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long

1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws

wood glue

wood filler

120 grit sandpaper

Tools:

measuring tape

square

pencil

safety glasses

hearing protection

Kreg Jig™

drill

circular saw

sander

Cut List

Cut List:

2 - 1x4 @ 24 1/2"
2 - 1x4 @ 66"
2 - 1x3 @ 30 1/2"
4 - 1x10 @ 78"
Angle supports cut from scraps

General Instructions

Step 1

Build your tabletop first. Set aside on a flat level surface to let dry.

Step 2

Next, build your end aprons/leg pieces.

Step 3

And then simply connect with side aprons.

Step 4

Add center supports.

Step 5

And then add the top!

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions:

Crooked Doghouse

Ana White — Wed, 23 May 2012 18:48:11 +0000

Additional Photos

Photo Credits:

Passion for Wood

About Project

Make a crooked doghouse! Free step by step plans from Ana-White.com!

Author Notes:

Sooooo .... my guess is today you are just going to skim what I write and skip to the good stuff ... how to build a Crooked Doghouse!

So I won't keep you - but first you have to do one thing for me.

You have to go read Whitney's post on how she built this doghouse, with step by step photos and details, and you MUST go meet Monty!!!!

Thank you Whitney for working with me on this crooked doghouse. You always amaze me!!!!

Dimensions

Dimensions:

This is a large sized doghouse.

Materials and Tools

Shopping List:

2 ½ sheets ½” exterior plywood
11 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
4 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1x2 @ 8 feet long
2 ½” PH screws
1” finish nails
Wood glue
2” and 3” wood screws

Cut List

Cut List:

TRUSSES
6 – 2x2 @ 34 ½” – top end cut at 45 degrees off square LP
6 – 2x2 @ 30 ½” – top end cut at 45 degrees off square LP
4 – 2x2 @ 29” – both ends cut at 10 degrees off square NOT parallel LP
4 – 2x2 @ 23 ¾” – 30 degrees/10 degrees LP (see in plan for more detail)
4 – 2x2 @ 21 3/8” – 40 degrees/10 degrees LP (see in plan for more detail)

1 – ½” plywood @ 39” x 29” (floor)
2 – 2x2 @ 48”
1 – ½” plywood @ 39” x 19 ¼”
1 – ½” plywood @ 39” x 22”
2 – ½” plywood @ 42 3/8” x 40 3/8” (cut shapes from these pieces)

SIDE TRIM
2 – 1x3 @ 37”
2 – 1x2 @ 18 ¾”
2 – 1x2 @ 21 ½”

FRONT/BACK TRIM
2 – 1x3 @ 29 ¾” – both ends cut at 10 degrees off square LP NOT parallel
2 – 1x3 @ 23” – 40 degrees/ 10 degrees LP (see in plan for more details)
2 – 1x3 @ 25 ¼” - 30 degrees/10 degrees LP (see in plan)

DOOR TRIM
1 – 1x3 @ 25 ¾”
1 – 1x3 @ 17 ¾” - one end cut at 5 degrees off square LP
1 – 1x3 @ 19 ¼” – one end cut at 5 degrees off square LP

ROOF
1 – ½” plywood @ 48” x 36”
1 – ½” plywood @ 48” x 32”

*LP stands for longest point measurement

Cutting Instructions:

MARK YOUR BOARDS as you cut!

General Instructions

Step 1

Build four trusses. Glue and use either countersunk screws or 1 ½” PHs and 2 ½” PH screws. Note – if you do use PHs see step 3 to predrill PHs in ends before assembly.

Step 2

Mark location of trusses on floor plywood. Apply glue to tops of floor plywood. Screw down with 2” screws.

Step 3

Attach the ends as shown in diagram. Use glue.

Step 4

Next, add the side plywood. Use 2” screws and glue.

Step 5

From the square-ish pieces of plywood, mark out the entire cutout. Remember that the back does not get a door cutout. Mark EVERYTHING out while you have something square to work from. Then cut out and attach to front with 2” screws and glue.

Step 6

Next trim out the sides. Use the 1” nails and glue. Measurements shown are to center of studs for easier nailing.

Step 7

Next trim out front and back as shown in diagram.

Step 8

Then trim out the front door. Use glue and 1” finish nails.

Step 9

Add the front and back overhang trusses. Make sure you join the tops with screws and glue.

NOTE: you can add ridge poles between the trusses if you feel the doghouse needs the extra support.

Step 10

And then add the roof plywood!

Step 11

Don't forget - go visit Whitney at Passion for Wood for construction details!

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions:

Clubhouse Bed

Ana White — Tue, 22 May 2012 17:22:14 +0000

About Project

Build a clubhouse bed! Free plans from ana-white.com

Author Notes:

Do NOT be like me.

Last winter, stuck inside for months and months while we waited for the sun to return to Alaska, Grace and I were really missing her original playhouse bed.

Now that I blog, our spare bedroom has turned into my office slash room of shame and the only place we have for guests to sleep is Grace's bed. A couple of years ago we decided NOT to force our guests to sleep up in Grace's playhouse bed and replaced it with the Hailey storage bed.

All has been good, and it's great having somewhere for guests to stay.

But then last winter, Grace saw the Eli Fort Bed in Pottery Barn Kid's catalog and asked if we could build it for her.

I drew the plans up.

And they sat on my computer for months.

And months.

When my dear friend Jaime from That's My Letter wrote me saying it was her Buddy Boy's turn to get a new bed and, I knew Jaime would get the bed done and posted and shared.

We worked on refining the plans, and you will thank Jaime when you build this bed for her brilliant suggestion to sister up 2x4 legs for added strength. This also allows for the bed to be assembled in easy pieces.

One week later, the clubhouse bed is done.

Be like Jaime.

DIY this bed today.

Your kids are growing every day, and one sad sad day, they won't want a clubhouse bed anymore :(

Well, if I haven't lost you already - no offense taken - Jaime really built an amazing bed! - I have one request: Please stop over and read all the details from Jaime on how she built this bed.

Jaime added a fort area underneath. She sewed those cute curtains! You can check out the details here.

And she made this surfboard sign too! Check out her tutorial here.

And she added window grids that hinge open! You can get the instructions on making these window grids here.

So PIN THIS project right now to your DIY board and make it happen!

And of course the plans follow! Thank you Jaime!

Materials and Tools

Shopping List:

2 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
4 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long
8 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
5 – 1x4 @ 8 feet long
2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
15 – 1x6 @ 8 feet long
1 ¼ and 2 ½ PH screws
1 1/4 finish nails
Wood glue
3” screws or bolts for assembly
2” screws for slats
Slats (7 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long)

NOTE: Jaime recommends the following changes to the shopping list because her 1x6 board ran a little wide on the front and she wanted gaps between the wood slats.

- add 2 - 1x5 @ 8'
- decrease 1x6 quantity to 14

1 1/4 inch finish nails

2 inch finish nails

1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws

2 1/2 inch pocket hole screws

wood glue

wood filler

Cut List

Cut List:

NOTE: This plan assumes your 1x6 boards are less than 5 1/2" wide. Jaime found that she needed to substitute two of the 1x6 boards on front and back for 1x5 boards to create gaps between the wood slats.

SIDE WALLS (BUILD 2)
4 – 2x2 @ 36”
14 – 1x3 @ 25 ½”
4 – 2x4 @ 68” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
4 – 2x4 @ 17” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, NOT parallel)
2 – 1x4 @ 43 ½”

BACK WALL
2 – 2x4 @ 68” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 37 1/4” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x5 (Jaime recommends using the 1x5s here instead of 1x6) @ 40 3/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 43 1/2” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 46 3/4” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 49 7/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 53 1/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
1 – 1x6 @ 54 1/2” (top end cut to dogeared point 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
1 – 1x4 @ 78”
2 – 1x4 @ 49” (one end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
1 – 1x2 @ 71”(slat rail ledge)
2 – 2x4 @ 12” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel)

FRONT WALL
2 – 2x4 @ 68” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 37 1/4” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 40 3/8” (Jaime recommends swapping these out for the 1x5 boards) (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 13 7/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 17 1/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
4 – 1x6 @ 17 5/8” (under windows)
2 – 1x6 @ 49 7/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 16” (doorway)
1 – 1x4 @ 78”
2 – 1x4 @ 49” (one end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
4 – 1x2 @ 13” (window trim - recommend cutting to fit)
1 – 1x2 @ 71” (slat rail ledge)
2 – 2x4 @ 12” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel)
- add 2 - 1x2 @ 14.5" (lower window trim interior - add to inside of windows)

LADDER
2 – 1x6 @ 38” (both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, ends are parallel)
3 – 1x6 @ 14 ½”
1 – 1x4 @ 14 ½”

SLATS
Recommend cutting 1x3 @ 40 1/2” long

General Instructions

Step 1

Build the walls with 3/4" PHs and 1 1/4" PH screws. Use scrap 1x3 to help with spacing. Fill upper holes with either PH plugs or wood filler.

Step 2

Now add the legs.

Step 3

And then add the cross supports. Jaime used 2 1/2" PH screws through 1 1/2" PHs to attach.

Step 4

And the trim to the base.

NOTE: Attach 34” up NOT 34 ¼”

Step 5

Build your back wall. I suggest leaving gaps between the wood boards to get that "clubhousey" look but you could also PH them together. Up to you! Either way, I'd recommend laying out all the boards first and going from there.

NOTES FROM JAIME: as in plans 13 slats @ 5 1/2" = 78.5" which is 1/2" too much width, change out 40 3/8" slats to 1x5 which allows for 1/8" spacing between slats (these changes have been made in the cut and shopping list above)
- PH screws first slat (37 1/4") to legs, then use 1x4 @78" trim piece and screw slats to trim from inside, then same at top angled trim pieces

Step 6

Attach top and bottom trim.

Step 7

This is for the slat system. You can use a 2x2 here too.

Step 8

And the cross supports.

Step 9

Lay out your front wall as you did the back wall.

Step 10

And add the trim.

Step 11

I'd cut the window trim a little long here.

NOTES FROM JAIME:
screw on front trim from inside then screw added interior window trim from inside from strength (my kids will definitely lean on this sill and without any side support in the slats I needed to add the extra longer interior trim piece).
- I also added a short 1x2 @ 4" piece across the top point on the interior to hold the joint where the angled trim pieces meet, not to mention it provides a sturdy hook for decor.

Step 12

And the bottom supports and cross supports.

Step 13

Now move the pieces into the room. For the large walls, try going in upside down, and getting one leg through at a time.

NOTES FROM JAIME: I used 3/8" lag bolts @ 3 1/2" in 3 spots on each leg

Step 14

Add the slats or bunkie board or box spring.

Step 15

And then build your ladder and attach.

NOTES FROM JAIME: gap between rungs is 8", attached with 2 - 3/8" carriage bolts @ 3"

Step 16

For the window grid tutorial and lots other tips and construction photos please read Jaime's build post here.

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions:

Rustic X Console

Ana White — Mon, 21 May 2012 16:08:22 +0000

About Project

Build a rustic X console! Free step by step plans from Ana-White.com!

Author Notes:

Hi everyone!

Did you have a good weekend?

I can't tell you more about my weekend just yet other than the fact that I'm pretty darn sore. A DIY life sure keeps you in shape, doesn't it?

I'll give you a hint - it has to do with 2x4s.

Lots of 2x4s.

Speaking of 2x4s - aren't they awesome???? So sturdy and strong and cheap, and for today's plan, beautiful!

Yep, those are 2x4 legs!!!!

My friend Hillary from The Friendly Home has been asking for plans for a substantially sized X Console like this one from another friend of mine's home - Kate from Centsational Girl:

Hillary and I worked really hard on this design to get it JUST right. She wanted something a little more rustic, and I had received numerous other plan requests for an X console inspired by Pottery Barn's Belmont Buffet.

And this is what we came up with! Now I say we as in I just drew a plan up. Hillary took a simple plan made up of 2x4s, 2x2s, 2x6s and 1x12s and turned it into a heirloom piece filled with heirlooms.

Like the beautiful handmade console, each of those quilts has a story too. I encourage you to take a second to stop over to The Friendly Home and read more about Hillary building this console, the finish she used, and the story behind those beautiful quilts!

Dimensions

Dimensions:

Dimensions are shown above.

Materials and Tools

Shopping List:

6 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
3 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1x12 @ 12 feet long
3 – 2x6 @ stud length or 8 feet
Corner hardware/decorative bolts
1 1/4" and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws
2 1/2" screws

1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws

2 1/2 inch pocket hole screws

Tools:

measuring tape

square

pencil

hammer

hearing protection

Kreg Jig™

drill

compound miter saw

sander

Cut List

Cut List:

12 – 2x2 @ 30”
6 – 2x4 @ 28 1/2"
2 – 1x12 @ 63 1/2"
5 – 2x4 @ 11 1/4"
2 – 2x2 @ 11 1/4"
2 – 2x2 @ 22 1/2" (long point to short point, ends parallel, cut at 60 degrees off square)
4 – 2x2 @ 11 1/4" (longest point to shortest point, long end cut at 60 degrees off square, short point cut at 30 degrees off square, angles are in same direction)
3 – 2x6 @ 74 1/2"

Cutting Instructions:

NOTE: If your saw does not cut 60 degrees off square, you will need to mark cuts with an angle square or compass/protractor and cut angles with circular saw or jigsaw. Practice this cut first on scraps!

General Instructions

Step 1

First build two frames as shown in diagram.

Step 2

Then attach frames to shelves. NOTE: I recommend drilling 3/4" PHs with Kreg Jig around all sides of each shelf for attaching all shelf trim with 1 1/4" PH screws later on.

Step 3

2x4 supports need to be the same width as your 1x12 boards - expected to be 11 1/4" wide. Attach to frames and shelves. For attaching to frames, use 2 1/2" PH screws through 1 1/2" PHs.

Step 4

And then just trim out sides of shelves.

Step 5

Now the fun part. I recommend building the Xs first and fitting. Once built, you can simply glue in place or add a few nails. The Xs will add extra support, but are primarily decorative.

Step 6

And then add the top! You can build top first with 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws and then attach to top through 2x4/2x2 aprons or just plank the top for a rustic look - it's up to you. TIP: Just use your 2 1/2" PH screw to attach the top so you don't have to go out and buy more 2 1/2" screws.

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions:

Well, Well, Well .....

Ana White — Fri, 18 May 2012 19:09:06 +0000

Momplex Stats

Money Spent So Far:

$88,000 + Cost of Property

The other day Gracie was blowing bubbles up at the Momplex and I noticed something.

Did you notice it too?

Something is a little different up at the Momplex.

There's a pipe sticking out of the ground.

Now I know pipes sticking out of the ground can be very very expensive.

So I asked the Ram.

Did you know there's a pipe sticking out of the ground up at the Momplex?

Well, well, well.

Apparently, while I was away at SNAP this truck came.

And parked right next to the Momplex.

And two men hopped out.

And threaded a giant drilling thing into heaps of huge steel pipes.

And then welded each pipe together.

240 feet of huge pipes welded together.

And inside those welded pipes is a huge drill bit, drilling a hole in the ground, spitting out rocks and dirt.

Apparently it was very loud.

And went on for days.

And apparently, there is a $12,000 charge to my credit card.

The things that go on when you leave for a week!

Mom, you've got water.

Barn Greenhouse

Ana White — Thu, 17 May 2012 18:15:02 +0000

About Project

Free step by step plans to build a barn style greenhouse!

Author Notes:

I have been dying to show you my Mother's Day present.

For years and years and years, I've been wanting a greenhouse. Up here in Alaska, the only way you are going to eat cucumbers or tomatoes off the vine is to grow a greenhouse. Or steal from your Mom's greenhouse.

But every year, every spring, we just have so much going on, the greenhouse never happens.

Next year, we say.

I thought next year would never come.

We were already saying next year this year.

So I tried something different

I said, what about tonight?

We started cutting boards at 4PM that night.

By that evening we had completed all of the wall framing.

I was so excited couldn't stop myself from sharing a pic via instagram and twitter! Jaime from That's My Letter also sent me a work apron that is just so beautiful I was afraid to use it!

That first night, we actually called it an early night!

The next morning, we got up and assembled the panels in the driveway.

We used roofing tin for the side panels. It's relatively inexpensive and easy to install and will last much longer than plywood. And I just liked the look of it too. I designed the plan so each side uses uncut 12 foot long panels to save time and minimize scrap waste.

The corners are trimmed in simple metal flashing.

For the greenhouse panels, we used the ribbing strips, but they aren't entirely necessary. We started the ribbing strips so that the corrugated panels would come up just perfect to .....

Wrap the top rib of the corrugated roofing! It was a happy accident for us, but I hope if you build you will consider wrapping the corrugated plastic over the roofing - makes for a good seal!

All of the panels are predrilled

To prevent screws from splitting the plastic panels and wood.

We were surprised at how many screws we ended up using!!! We used metal roofing screws.

Up to this point, we have not had to cut any panels! The sides of this greenhouse plan are made a perfect 12 feet long so you can just buy 12 feet long panels and slap them up!

Of course, the greenhouse is also designed to use the widths of the panels, so no ripping panels down.

But on the gambrel ends, we will need to cut the panels to match the roof line. We simply held the panels up in place and marked the cuts with a pen. Then we used a chalkline to make perfect straight lines across ribs and cut with a circular saw as directed by the manufacturer.

Grandpa Tim helped us out with this project. We are very grateful for all his help and expertise.

The ends panels are screwed up without the ribbing strips.

We'll be adding the flashing up to the outside corners as well.

And after years and years of waiting, within a matter of a few days, working on the greenhouse here and there, we had this!!!!

We choose the gambrel or barn style roof design because you can get more headroom inside while still having lots of room up top for greenhouse panels.

We love it.

And I wanted to get the plans out to you as soon as possible so you can also build it! Enjoy the plans!

Dimensions

Dimensions:

Dimensions are shown above.

Materials and Tools

Shopping List:

Materials for 32" stud walls -

3 - 2x4 @ 10 feet long - use on back wall
5 - 2x4 @ 12 feet long - use on sides/ridgepole DO NOT CUT)
32 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
11 - 12 foot long x 26" wide standard corrugated plastic greenhouse panels
1 - 8 foot long x 26" wide standard corrugated plastic greenhouse panel (use on door side)
3 - 12 foot long tin panels (use on sides and back)
1 - 8 foot long tin panel (use on front)
Tin screws
28 - 4' long ribbing strips
L flashing (optional for the corners)
You'll need either metal gussets for the trusses or to cut plywood ones from 1/2" plywood. We used scrap plywood from the Momplex need about 1/2 a sheet.

- Will make door in later plan

3 inch screws

wood glue

Tools:

measuring tape

square

pencil

hammer

safety glasses

hearing protection

drill

circular saw

compound miter saw

level

countersink drill bit

Cut List

Cut List:

Cut list is in plan at each step

General Instructions

Step 1

2 – 2x4 @ 118 3/8”
6 – 2X4 @ 32”

NOTE: I made the studs 32" long to conserve 2x4 boards. But this meant we had to rip our tin sheets down about 3" because our overall side wall height ended up being 35" and the tin was 38" wide. You can alter the studs to avoid this problem or even make the studs 45" tall if you choose to use 1/2 sheets of exterior plywood creating 48" tall walls for a taller greenhouse.

We framed everything up with nails and a nail gun and glue. You can also use 3" exterior screws.

Step 2

4 – 2X4 @ 144”
14 – 2X4 @ 32”

Same is true again of the stud lengths.

Step 3

4 – 2X4 @ 32”
4 – 2X4 @ 42 ½”
2 – 2X4 @ 81 ½”
1 – 2X4 @ 33 3/8”

Note: If you later the stud length, you will need to then alter the door framing studs to the exact difference.

Step 4

We actually put the tin on the side panels first to save some time and work. The panels are just screwed together as shown here.

Step 5

4 – 2X4 @ 48” (BOTH ENDS CUT AT 22 ½ DEGREES, ENDS NOT PARALLEL)
2 – 2X4 @ 39 5/8” (LONGEST POINT MEASUREMENT, ONE END CUT AT 22 ½ DEGREES OFF SQUARE)
2 – 2X4 @ 48 1/2” (LONGEST POINT MEASUREMENT, ONE END CUT AT 22 ½ DEGREES OFF SQUARE)
2 – 2X4 @ 42 1/4” (LONGEST POINT MEASUREMENT, ONE END CUT AT 22 ½ DEGREES OFF SQUARE)
2 – 2X4 @ 7 3/8” (TOP CUT TO DOGEARED POINT MEASUREMENT, TOP END CUT AT 22 ½ DEGREES OFF SQUARE)

We layed the truss out on the garage floor and everything worked out perfectly. We used scrap 1/2" plywood to create gussets but you can also buy metal gussets for the joints. Gussets are simply plywood pieces cut to cover joints and then screwed on with glue. We use 3-4 screws per board covered by the gusset per gusset, with normally gussets on each side of the joint.

Since we knew the end trusses would get the panels applied, we opted to only put gussets on the insides.

We attached the front truss to front wall with screws through undersides.

Step 6

4 – 2X4 @ 48” (BOTH ENDS CUT AT 22 ½ DEGREES, ENDS NOT PARALLEL)
1 – 2X4 @ 117 7/8” (BOTH ENDS CUT AT 22 1/2" DEGREES, ENDS NOT PARALLEL)
1 – 2X4 @ 55 3/8 (TOP CUT TO DOGEARED POINT, 22 ½ DEGREES)
2 – 2X4 @ 55 ¼” (TOP CUT TO DOGREARED POINT, BOTTOM CUT 45 DEGREES OFF SQUARE, END CLIPPED)

The back truss is built same as front. See next step for close up of the center cuts ...

Step 7

This board was a little tricky to cut - practice first!

Step 8

1 – 2X4 @ 141”

NOTE: If you use gussets - we used 1/2" plywood - this will affect your ridgepole length.

TIP: I learned this from the Ram. Take your ridgepole BEFORE attaching to trusses and set it on the side wall. Then just mark all of the side wall stud locations on the ridgepole. Do this on both sides of the ridgepole. Then screw the ridgepole up in place. It will be marked now for the common rafters!

The ridgepole actually sits down from the end truss peak about 1/4". This is shown in the diagram as well.

Step 9

10 2X4 @ 48” (BOTH ENDS CUT AT 22 ½ DEGREES ENDS NOT
PARALLEL)

10 2X4 @ 47 1/4” (BOTH ENDS CUT AT 22 ½ DEGREES ENDS NOT
PARALLEL) - shorter rafters go up to meet the ridgepole. I marked all shorter rafters to avoid confusion.

For the common rafters of this barn style greenhouse, we ended up using plywood gussets to save money. After cutting quite a few, I figured out how to cut gussets the super quick and easy way - got gusset cutting down to less than a minute each.

Going to apologize for the poor video - just wanted to show you quickly how to save some time and didn't have time to call hair and makeup :) had a greenhouse to build!

We put gussets on both sides of each rafter joint with glue and screws. We made all of the small trusses first on the ground, then it was just a matter of stacking them on the ridgepole and attaching to the studs. We used 8 screws per gusset.

Common rafters are installed flush to top of ridgepole and flush to outside of side walls. We had to "toenail" the screws in - meaning they are screwed in at an angle. We used glue and 3" screws from both sides.

Step 10

The plan will get you through the framing. At this point, you could use plastic paper, lexan glass panels, you name it to seal the frame in. We used the corrugated plastic panels detailed earlier for installation.

IMPORTANT: If you do not use panels you will need some sort of lateral support to keep the greenhouse from swaying side to side. Try 12 foot long 2x4s.

Good luck! We'll be building the door in the next few days and adding plans as well.

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions:

Easiest Parson Chair Slipcovers

Ana White — Tue, 15 May 2012 06:26:21 +0000

About Project

The easiest slipcover pattern ever! Make the chair too!

Author Notes:

Hi everyone!!!

I hope your Mother's Day was lovely and full of appreciation. As a mother myself, I have huge respect and admiration for all mothers. Mom's give so much, give up so much, Mother's Day is a very special day for us to make sure our own Mom knows how much we love and appreciate her.

We had such a great Mother's Day weekend!

My present isn't quite done yet, so I can't spill all the details yet .... but I think you will be as excited about my gift as much as I am! Oh I can't wait!

I've been wanting to share a little sewing project I did a while back. Now I'm no pro at the sewing machine, but I think that's what you may like about this project. It's so fast and easy anyone - even me - can make a parson chair slipcover in ten minutes. And that's with directional fabric!

I made these parson chairs a year or so ago, and we love them! But after a year of constant use, the fabric was starting to look a little dirty and old. I didn't want to spend a ton of time making a slipcover, just something quick and easy to refresh the chairs.

So what I did was use one piece of fabric to make the seat/back/back and then another for the skirt! So easy!

Once I figured out the pattern, the second chair slipcover only took me ten minutes to make! And the stripes matched up perfectly!

You could use this pattern to make ruffled slipcovers, floor length slipcovers, or just little short ones.

Dimensions

Dimensions:

This slipcover is designed to fit the parson chairs linked to in the plans. You can adjust for any parson chair with a straight back.

Materials and Tools

Shopping List:

2 yards fabric per 2 chairs, 45" (I use decorator weight)
thread and notions
sewing maching
cutting board and rotary cutter
pins

Cut List

Cut List:

Per chair:

1 - 20" x 48 1/2" Fabric
2 - 45" x skirt length

General Instructions

Step 1

UPDATE: The first, FIRST thing you have to do is make the chair.

The first thing is to cut your fabric. I made two chair slipcovers, and because I used directional striped fabric, I layed out the pieces as shown in the diagram. If your pieces do not have a direction, you could lay them out differently. Also, I made my skirts 12" long - you can make your skirts any length with 18" being floor length. From 45" wide fabric, you will need to cut two strips per chair.

Step 2

Take the main seat/back piece and fold it over with right sides together so the fold overlaps 16 1/4". Pin and stitch with 1/4" inseams along edge.

At this point, I recommend fitting the slipcover over your chair to make sure the fit is right. If you are satisfied, remove and then clip in 1" at base of fold over as shown in diagram.

Step 3

Then fit slipcover back on chair, still with wrong side facing outward. The corners will come to a point as shown in picture. Pin and draw a line over the excess fabric as shown in photograph. Remove and stitch over line. Clip off excess fabric leaving 1/4" for seam allowance.

This completes the seat/back! Turn so right sides are out and fit over chair. Now all we need is the skirt!

Step 4

For the skirt you will need a long strip. Sew the two strips together to create this long strip using 1/4" inseams as shown in diagram.

Step 5

Now you can add the skirt by gathering or as I did with a single kick pleat. I thought the kick pleat was easier. If you choose to gather, simply gather along one edge of the entire skirt, pin and stitch in place and finish your back seam.

For the kick pleat, line up the center seam of the skirt with the center of the main seat/back piece. Pin. Then pin and stitch from center outward, turning front corner, stitching along side still at 1/4" seam, and then turning back corner. Stop after 2" (approximately) from back corner.

Do the opposite side, starting again at the front center and turning front and back corners and stopping approximately 2" after back corner.

Step 6

Now we just got this back piece of the skirt to figure out. No biggie. What I did was sew the two skirt ends together first. Then I found the center of the back piece and matched up with center back seam of skirt and pinned. Then I pinned excess fabric into a kick pleat with right sides together. And then I just stitched it all up. Super easy.

Step 7

And then I just hemmed the entire skirt by pressing under and stitching. You could even hem before attaching skirt to seat/back but I wanted an opportunity to adjust the hem if necessary.

And that's it!

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions: