Here, we’ll debunk 7 common aquarium myths so that you won’t have to learn the hard way. Let’s quash the fallacies and reveal the facts!

Live Plants Are Hard To Keep

Our first myth is unsurprisingly one we’d love to debunk the most! One of the saddest things about the aquarium hobby is how many people start out imagining or hearing that live plants are difficult to keep, only to miss out on one of the most fulfilling elements of keeping an aquarium.

While it’s true that certain species of aquatic plants should only be attempted by experts, there are also endless plants that are incredibly easy, beautiful, and fun to keep. Take Java moss and Java fern for example, virtually indestructible plants that can even be tied to rocks and pieces of driftwood.

Another classic choice for beginners is the Amazon sword, whose elegant pointed leaves are a joy to watch swaying in the aquarium’s gentle current. Then there are floating plants such as frogbit and water sprite that create a lovely dappled shade and a natural aesthetic to the tank without fuss or worry.

Not only are plants beautiful and fun, but they also provide hiding places for your aquarium fish and filter the water to improve water quality. To find out more about plants that are a doddle to keep, check out our guide to 8 of the best beginner plants, here.

Almost All Fish Require a Heater

Another myth that even experienced fish keepers often believe is that almost all fish species require an aquarium heater.

In most people’s minds, cold water aquariums are confined to goldfish and guppies, and little more. Yet as long as your aquarium is in a reasonably warm room that remains above 65°F, you might be amazed at the options you have.

Buenos Aires tetra, bloodfin tetra, zebra danios, celestial pearl danios, peppered cories, Japanese rice fish, and rainbow mountain minnows are but a few of the small schooling fish that can be kept in coldwater setups. As well as guppies, Endler’s livebearers and mosquito fish are good examples of hardy livebearers.

Slightly larger species that can be kept without a heater include rosy barbs, golden barbs, and paradise fish. Advanced aquarists could also consider rainbow shiners (Notropis chrosomus), and pumpkin seeds (Lepomis gibbosus). As for invertebrates, most freshwater shrimp and many snails can live in unheated aquaria.

Not only do coldwater tanks offer a novelty that saves energy, but they also naturally have higher oxygen levels, with many species living longer lives than they would in tropical tanks.

Filters Are Not Essential

While some aquariums can go without a heater, none should be left without a filter. Aquarium filters perform so many vital roles that attempting to go without one only puts your fish in danger, and yourself under a lot of stress.

Firstly, filters are the primary home of beneficial bacteria in the tank that convert deadly ammonia into relatively harmless nitrates. Even going a day without a filter could see your fish wind up with ammonia poisoning.

Then there are the cleaning and aerating roles that filters fulfill. Without these, you’ll need to clean the tank and change the aquarium water daily just to keep it clean and oxygenated. Since filters are so affordable and easy to maintain, why take the risk?

Okay, okay, there is one very small caveat. The ‘Diana Walstad method’ is an innovative yet complex method of filtering and aerating water with plants alone, but to avoid disaster, it should never be attempted by anyone but the most advanced fish keepers!

Fish Can Live Happily in Bowls

Oh no, they can’t! If you’ve been following our discussion on why goldfish bowls should be banned, you’ll know why.

First of all, fish bowls normally don’t have filters, and we’ve already discussed why that’s a non-starter. Secondly, the curved glass of a fish bowl distorts the fish’s vision, causing it constant stress as it struggles to identify the reflections and warped appearances from outside the tank.

The small water capacity of goldfish bowls also often means constant fluctuations in water chemistry that can severely shock, if not kill fish outright. Sadly, many people believe that goldfish are only supposed to live for a few years, when kept in the right way, they can exceed twenty!

When hobbyists begin to understand how smart fish are, they will resolve not to keep fish in such cruel conditions.

Fish Are Not Smart

Following on from the cruelty of keeping fish in bowls, it’s time to debunk the notion that fish are stupid, unaware, and don’t suffer.

At Aquariadise, we’ve written plenty about the remarkable feats of fish intelligence. Not only can pet fish learn tricks and recognize their owners, but they can also complete tasks that are normally associated with highly evolved animals.

By shooting insects from foliage above the water, archerfish are included in the list of animals that use tools. By using an electromagnetic field, elephant nose fish can navigate in the dark. And by remembering skills taught to them years ago, goldfish are fast dispelling the misnomer about their ‘5-second memory’!

By observing your fish with an open mind, you’ll begin to discover just how complex and advanced their behavior and interactions are. It’ll give you a new appreciation of a fish’s inner world, and cause you to treat them with a new level of admiration and respect.

Small Tanks Are Easier To Maintain

A rather dangerous myth or misconception among newbie fish keepers is that small tanks must be easier to manage and maintain. In reality, nothing could be further from the truth.

Firstly, we need to understand that no fish, no matter how small, should be kept in a tank of less than 5 gallons. Doing so is extremely cruel, and such small tanks should be reserved for plants, shrimp, and snails only.

But managing stable water parameters in any tank that’s under 20 gallons in capacity isn’t easy either. Because there is less water volume to buffer fluctuations, water chemistry, and temperature can change extremely quickly, putting their inhabitants at great risk.

For a first aquarium, we’d thoroughly recommend a medium-sized 20- to 55-gallon tank that will have much more stable water parameters and also provide more room for fish (especially schooling fish) to enjoy their lives thoroughly.

Fish Can Live on Dried Food Alone

Man cannot live on bread alone. If he did, he’d get malnourished very quickly. Likewise, fish that live solely on flake food or fish pellets are highly unlikely to reach optimum health or appearance due to a dull, monotonous diet.

Because fish species have evolved over millions of years to eat natural food items like algae, insects, worms, and crustaceans, they do best when given similar types of food in captivity, too.

While it might feel like a hassle to stock live foods, or thaw out frozen foods every day for your fish to eat, even offering your fish these healthy snacks twice a week will make a big difference.

You’ll notice immediately how excited and feisty your fish become as you offer them their favorite foods, and how their eyes, scales, fins, and colors all begin to glow more brightly as a result of the extra nourishment.

Proper feeding may even get some fish in the mood for breeding! Now there’s a bonus worth shooting for. To read more about live and frozen foods, as well as vegetables to feed fish, check out our dedicated guide, here.

The post Clearing Up 7 Common Aquarium Myths: Fish Tales or Facts? appeared first on Aquariadise.

Here are six stunning, reef-safe species guaranteed to make your tank pop!

Key Takeaways

• Caring for marine fish like the Mandarinfish and Royal Gramma involves providing an environment with plenty of live rock and hiding spots and a diet suited to their carnivorous needs; they also display unique behaviors such as changing colors and complex mating dances.
• Flame Angelfish and Moorish Idols are vibrant and active fish that need spacious tanks and a balanced diet but are territorial; Flame Angelfish are suitable for reef aquariums, while Moorish Idols are better for experienced aquarists.
• Regal Angelfish and Powder Blue Tangs require meticulous care, especially regarding their diet and tank environment. They can be aggressive toward similar fish, so it’s recommended to introduce Powder Blue Tangs to the tank last to minimize aggression.

Summary Table

Here’s an at-a-glance overview of all the colorful fish species we’ve featured in this article!

Please note that the water parameters provided are general ranges suitable for most marine fish. Specific care might require slight adjustments within these parameters. Lifespan and cost can vary based on several factors, such as the fish’s origin, size, and overall health when acquired.

Mandarinfish (Synchiropus splendidus)

The Mandarinfish, also known as the Mandarin dragonet, is one of the most beautiful and popular species of marine fish in the hobby.

These small, peaceful fish are native to the Pacific Ocean and are famous for their vibrant colors and unique patterns. They are a popular choice for reef aquariums and do best when kept in well-established tanks containing plenty of live rock and hiding spots, as they prefer to spend most of their time hiding out in crevices and caves.

Mandarinfish are carnivorous and feed primarily on small crustaceans and copepods, making them a perfect addition to a mature reef tank with an established population of these organisms. These fish need a well-balanced diet and need multiple daily feeds to keep them healthy.

Mandarinfish are not just pretty to look at; one of the most fascinating things about them is their mating behavior. During the breeding season, males perform an intricate courtship dance to attract a female, and the pair will then rise up into the water column to release their eggs and sperm.

However, breeding Mandarinfish in captivity can be extremely difficult and is usually only achieved by experienced hobbyists or commercial breeders. Overall, Mandarinfish are an excellent addition to any marine aquarium due to their mesmerizing appearance, peaceful nature, and fascinating behavior.

Royal Gramma (Gramma loreto)

The Royal Gramma, also known as the Fairy Basslet, is a species of fish native to the Caribbean Sea and western Atlantic Ocean. Aquarists prize this fish for its striking purple and yellow coloration, which makes it stand out in any marine aquarium.

Despite their vibrant appearance, Royal Grammas are relatively hardy and adaptable, making them ideal for both beginner and experienced aquarists. These fish are naturally peaceful characters that can coexist with a variety of tankmates, including other small fish and invertebrates. This makes them an excellent choice for community reef aquariums.

Royal Grammas prefer aquariums with plenty of rocky caves, crevices, and overhangs where they can retreat when feeling threatened. These fish are known to be territorial and will defend their favorite hiding spots against other fish, so it’s important to provide ample hiding places for each individual fish in the tank.

In terms of diet, Royal Grammas are strict carnivores and will thrive on a diet of meaty foods, and are especially partial to mysis shrimp and brine shrimp. They should be fed small amounts several times a day, rather than one large portion, to prevent overeating and digestive problems that could result.

One interesting behavior of Royal Grammas is their ability to change color depending on their mood. When feeling stressed or threatened, they often darken their coloration to blend in with their surroundings and avoid attracting attention. But when feeling relaxed and comfortable, they display their vibrant colors to full effect. That can be a handy barometer for their owners, enabling them to tell whether the conditions in the tank are correct for these fish.

Flame Angelfish (Centropyge loriculus)

Flame Angelfish are tropical marine fish native to the Indo-Pacific region, including the Red Sea and the Great Barrier Reef. These fish are popular among aquarium hobbyists for their stunning orange-red coloration and unique markings, which make them stand out in any marine aquarium.

In addition, these glorious marine fish are relatively easy to care for and can adapt to a wide range of water conditions. Ideally, you need a tank with a minimum capacity of 55 gallons for Flame Angelfish. They are reef-safe, coexisting peacefully with corals and other invertebrates without causing any damage.

When it comes to diet, Flame Angelfish are primarily herbivores, requiring a diet rich in algae for optimal health. They also appreciate a variety of frozen and live foods, such as brine shrimp, krill, and mysis shrimp, which gives them all the nutrients they need.

Flame Angelfish are quite lively and active and can be pretty territorial, especially towards other fish of the same species or similar appearance. Therefore, it’s best to keep them in a species-specific tank or with other peaceful fish that won’t compete for resources.

Moorish Idol (Zanclus cornutus)

Moorish Idols are striking fish found in the Indo-Pacific region. They are instantly recognizable by their amazing black, white, and yellow coloration, which makes them extremely popular among marine aquarium enthusiasts.

Despite their delicate appearance, Moorish Idols are relatively hardy and can adapt well to aquarium life. However, they require a large tank with plenty of swimming space and hiding spots.

These fish are known for their unique body shape and elongated dorsal fin, which can be up to two-thirds the length of the creature’s whole body. This fin is used for communication and display, making it an important part of the Moorish Idol’s courtship behavior. In the wild environment, you generally see these fish in pairs, so it’s best to replicate that in the aquarium if you can find a mated pair. Although not particularly aggressive, these fish can be territorial and feisty toward their tank mates.

Moorish Idols are omnivores and feed on a variety of plant matter, algae, and small invertebrates in the wild. In an aquarium setting, they should be fed a diet that includes both plant matter and protein-rich foods like brine shrimp and krill. It is important to ensure they receive a balanced diet to maintain their health and vitality.

These elegant fish make a fabulous addition to a large marine tank. However, they are unsuitable for novice aquarists and require significant care and attention to thrive in captivity.

Regal Angelfish (Pygoplites diacanthus)

Regal Angelfish are native to the Indian and Pacific Oceans, where they inhabit coral reefs and lagoons.

They are popular and highly sought-after fish with stunning blue and yellow coloration, which makes them an exquisite addition to any aquarium. However, the Regal Angelfish is not recommended for beginners because of its very specific care needs.

These fish need a well-established marine aquarium with lots of live rock and hiding places where they can feel safe and protected. This is because Regal Angelfish are naturally shy and prefer to spend much of their days hiding in rocky overhangs, crevices, and caves.

The Regal Angelfish eats both algae-based foods and meaty treats. One thing that makes these fish tricky to keep in captivity is their picky eating habits, and they often take a while to adjust to their new surroundings and food. It’s typically best to offer a few small feeds throughout the day rather than one large feed.

Regal Angelfish can be aggressive towards their tank mates, especially if they are of a similar size or color. Therefore, we recommend keeping them with other peaceful species that won’t compete for food or territory.

Powder Blue Tang (Acanthurus leucosternon)

The Powder Blue Tang is a fascinating fish species from the Indo-Pacific region’s warm waters.

These fish are known for their stunning powder blue coloration and distinctive yellow dorsal fin, making them a favorite among many marine enthusiasts. Powder Blue Tangs are best suited for large, well-established reef aquariums with plenty of swimming space.

These fish are herbivores and require a diet rich in algae and seaweed. They should be fed at least three times a day to ensure that they receive all the nutrients they need to thrive. When it comes to water conditions,

It is important to note that Powder Blue Tangs can be aggressive towards other tangs, so they are recommended to be kept as the only tang in the aquarium. However, they are generally peaceful towards other tankmates and can be kept with a variety of other fish species as long as they are not aggressive towards them.

Powder Blue Tangs are active swimmers and require plenty of open swimming space unobstructed by hardscape and decorations. If you are considering adding a Powder Blue Tang to your aquarium, it is important to bear in mind that these fish can grow up to 10 inches in length. Therefore, you must provide them with a large enough tank to accommodate their size. Additionally, most experienced keepers recommend that you introduce this species to the aquarium last to reduce the risk of aggression towards other tankmates.

Final Thoughts

Adding any of these spectacular saltwater fish to your aquarium is sure to impress and delight your friends when they call around to view your tank.

However, many of these fish species have very specific care requirements, which makes them unsuitable for novice hobbyists. In addition, most of these fish are super-expensive to buy, so you must be confident you can provide your chosen species with everything it needs to thrive before you part with your cash.

The post 6 Colorful Saltwater Fish That Will Brighten Up Your Tank appeared first on Aquariadise.

From quirky shrimp to amazing, mesmerizing cephalopods, these creatures can add an exciting and unique element to your tank. And these amazing animals aren’t limited to marine and reef tanks; there are freshwater species, too.

Here are seven unusual invertebrates you might like to consider for both freshwater and saltwater aquariums.

Key Takeaways

• Invertebrates like Vampire shrimp and Thai Micro crabs make excellent freshwater pets due to their peaceful nature, interesting feeding behaviors, and tank-cleaning abilities, suitable for community aquariums of 20 gallons or more.
• Saltwater invertebrates, such as Peacock Mantis shrimp and Harlequin shrimp, offer eye-catching visuals and unique behaviors but require species-specific tanks and careful attention to dietary needs, starting at 20 gallons.
• Highly specialized and visually stunning pets like the Blue Ring octopus and Flamboyant cuttlefish are recommended for experienced aquarists. Due to their complex care requirements, these creatures require a minimum of 30-gallon aquarium and a species-only tank setup.

Summary Table

Here’s a quick, at-a-glance summary of the critters we’ve included in this article! Do bear in mind that some of these aquatic animals have complex care requirements, so be sure to research your chosen species thoroughly before taking it on.

Freshwater Options

First of all, let’s take a look at some of the most interesting, quirky freshwater creatures you might fancy keeping as pets.

Vampire Shrimp (Atyopsis moluccensis)

If you’re an experienced aquarium owner looking for an interesting addition to your tank, you might want to consider taking on Vampire Shrimp.

These fascinating creatures are native to the tropical waters of Southeast Asia. These strange little shrimp are great fun to watch as they position themselves on vantage points around the aquarium, using their feathery appendages to filter tiny particles of food from the water.

Vampire shrimp are peaceful creatures that spend most of their time perched on driftwood or rocks, making them a great addition to a community tank with other peaceful fish that won’t bother them. As mentioned above, these shrimp are filter feeders but will also eat sinking pellets and algae wafers. If you’re planning to keep these shrimp, you’ll need a minimum tank size of 20 gallons.

Vampire shrimp are not only interesting to watch, but their unique appearance and peaceful nature make them an excellent addition to any aquarium.

Thai Microcrab (Limnopilos naiyanetri)

Thai Microcrabs can make a cute, unique addition to any densely planted aquarium.

Despite their diminutive size, these fascinating crabs are extremely active and highly entertaining to watch, spending much of their time scavenging for food and climbing on plants and your aquarium decorations. They are omnivorous and will happily eat algae, detritus, and leftover fish food, making them great for keeping the tank clean and tidy.

Thai microcrabs are benign creatures and can be kept with other peaceful fish and shrimp species, and with a minimum tank size requirement of just 5 gallons, they are perfect for nano tanks. Their quirky behavior and small size make Thai Microcrabs a popular choice for aquarists looking to add an unusual element to their aquarium.

Freshwater Pom-Pom Crab (Ptychognathus barbatus)

Freshwater pom-pom crabs are unique, fascinating creatures that can add an interesting dimension to any freshwater aquarium.

These crabs are native to Southeast Asia and are best known for their oversized claws, which are covered in small hairs resembling pom-poms. Pom-pom crabs are relatively peaceful but can be territorial, so keeping them with peaceful fish and shrimp species is important.

Freshwater pom-pom crabs are omnivorous and will eat algae, detritus, and sinking pellets, making them an excellent addition to any aquarium cleanup crew. With a minimum tank size requirement of only 10 gallons, these crabs are also suitable for nano tanks.

Their quirky appearance and interesting behavior will make Pom-pom crabs an eye-catching addition to your freshwater tank. In addition, these creatures are relatively low maintenance and are sure to grab the attention of anyone admiring your aquarium.

If you’re looking for a unique and unusual aquatic pet, a freshwater pom-pom crab might just be the perfect addition to your freshwater tank.

Saltwater Aquarium Options

If you have a reef or marine aquarium of a decent size, you have a good selection of invertebrates to choose from. However, some of these critters have quite complex care needs and are best suited to experienced aquarists.

Peacock Mantis Shrimp (Odontodactylus scyllarus)

Peacock mantis shrimp are amazing creatures that are found in the Indo-Pacific region. They are known for their powerful claws, which they use to crack open the shells of their prey.

These shrimp are highly intelligent creatures with excellent eyesight, making them skilled hunters. Although they might not be suitable for life in community tanks, peacock mantis shrimp are extremely interesting to watch. Their brightly colored appearance and unique behavior make them a truly captivating addition to a marine aquarium.

Peacock Mantis shrimp are carnivorous, feeding on a variety of meaty foods, such as fish, crustaceans, and mollusks. For that reason, you should keep your shrimp in a species-only tank, as they are aggressive and can harm other tankmates.

If you plan on keeping peacock mantis shrimp, you’ll need a minimum aquarium size of 30 gallons.

Harlequin Shrimp (Hymenocera elegans)

Harlequin shrimp are an exquisite addition to any aquarium due to their unique feeding habits and striking appearance.

Originating from the Indo-Pacific, these shrimp have specialized claws that they use to flip over and consume the tube feet of starfish, making them obligate starfish eaters. Due to their specific dietary requirements, Harlequin shrimp are best kept in a species-only tank or with peaceful tankmates who won’t be viewed as food.

Harlequin shrimp are relatively low maintenance once their dietary needs are satisfied, and their minimum tank size requirement is just 20 gallons. These shrimp are visually stunning, and their feeding behavior is fascinating to watch, making them an excellent choice for experienced aquarists looking for a unique addition to their marine aquarium.

Blue Ring Octopus (Hapalochlaena sp.)

Before introducing our next enchanting sea creature, a word of warning. Blue Ring octopuses are highly venomous and should only be kept by experienced aquarists.

These enigmatic creatures are native to the Indo-Pacific regions and spend much of the day hiding in caves or crevices, only becoming active at night. Because of their venomous qualities and aggressive nature, Blue Ring octopuses should be kept in a species-only tank.

These creatures are carnivorous and will eat a variety of meaty foods, including small fish, shrimp, and crabs. If you’re an experienced aquarist looking for an intriguing, unique addition to your saltwater tank, a blue ring octopus might be just what you’re looking for.

These highly intelligent creatures have captivating behaviors that make them a joy to watch, but a 30-gallon, single-species tank is essential to keep them healthy and happy.

Flamboyant Cuttlefish (Metasepia pfefferi)

The Flamboyant cuttlefish certainly lives up to its common name, and if you’re looking for a visually stunning and fascinating invertebrate to add to your aquarium, this creature is an excellent choice.

These cuttlefish are found across the Indo-Pacific regions and are well-known for their amazing, vibrant colors and unique swimming style. What’s even more impressive is their ability to change color and texture to blend in with their surroundings, making them incredibly interesting to observe in your aquarium.

However, it’s important to note that Flamboyant cuttlefish must have a species-only tank or a few peaceful tankmates that won’t harm them. These glamorous critters are carnivorous and will eat a variety of meaty foods, including shrimp, fish, and crustaceans, which is another reason a species-only tank is a good option for these guys.

As with many of the invertebrates we’ve featured in this guide, the Flamboyant cuttlefish has specific dietary needs, so it’s essential to research their requirements before taking them on.

In terms of tank size, a minimum of 30 gallons is recommended for these creatures. Once their needs are met, the Flamboyant cuttlefish is relatively low maintenance and can make a great addition to your aquarium. Their unique behavior and stunning appearance are sure to captivate the attention of any onlooker.

If you’re an experienced marine hobbyist looking for a unique and visually striking invertebrate to add to your collection, the Flamboyant cuttlefish is definitely worth considering.

Final Thoughts

Whether you have a freshwater or saltwater tank, introducing a few of the unique inverts we’ve featured in this guide can provide endless fascination for you and your visitors!

However, many of these weird and wonderful creatures have very specific care requirements, so please remember to research each species carefully to ensure they are compatible with your aquarium environment and you can meet their specific needs for a long, happy, and healthy life.

The post 7 Unique Invertebrates for Your Aquarium: Quirky and Fun appeared first on Aquariadise.

So what are the pros and cons of bare-bottom tanks? Should you be trying them out? That depends on your priorities, so let’s take a closer look.

The Advantages of Bare-Bottom Tanks

Easier To Clean

The primary reason that some aquarists opt for bare-bottom tanks over substrate is that they believe they’re easier to clean.

With no sand or gravel in the way, the fish keeper can easily hoover out any uneaten food, fish waste, and debris with a siphon. This is deemed especially important in breeding tanks where it’s important to maintain hygienic conditions to prevent disease and water poisoning.

Because certain pathogens can hide in sand and gravel, some people conclude that going bare-bottom will reduce their numbers. On the other hand, others report that harmful bacteria can build up on the glass bottom without substrate.

As with many aspects of this topic, it depends on who you ask!

Prevents Digging

Some aquarists avoid substrate simply to prevent their cichlids from digging and causing a mess.

Many cichlids indeed love to dig. At the very least, cichlids like convicts and firemouths that spawn in the substrate will dig a breeding pit, but others like eartheaters will root around in the substrate night and day, both for breeding and feeding!

Some cichlids have a strong preference for a sandy bottom, but sand particles can also easily get stirred up and trapped in the tank’s filter. Even when digging in gravel, cichlids can uproot aquatic plants and make a mess.

Removing substrate entirely does of course prevent the fish from digging, but remember that this is part of their natural behavior that they might miss if left bare bottom.

Less Investment

While gravel and sand aren’t expensive, some aquarists are looking to cut corners wherever they can. Especially when setting up large fish rooms, the amount of gravel or sand required can be quite substantial.

While it may appear to be cheaper to go without substrate, it’s worth remembering that some cichlids are less likely to breed on a bare-bottomed tank, meaning the saving won’t pay off!

The Advantages of Substrate

Visual Appeal

One of the biggest reasons that most aquarists prefer tanks with substrate is that it’s visually appealing. While bare-bottomed tanks are likened to a zoo cell with a concrete floor, sand or gravel offers a more natural-looking aesthetic.

Avoid Reflections on the Bottom of the Tank

People who try bottomless tanks don’t always realize that they will constantly see reflections of their fish on the tank floor.

Not only can this be distracting, but the reflections also water down the vivid colors of their fish. In contrast, different shades of sand or gravel can be used to enhance fish colors rather than dilute them.

Fish Prefer It

A very convincing reason for adding substrate is that fish probably prefer it.

In aquarium design, we’re constantly trying to replicate the habitats that fish come from in the wild. Not only does this offer authentic scenery to enjoy a certain type of fish, but it’ll do wonders to help your fish feel at home.

Fish that feel comfortable in their surroundings are far less likely to become stressed, disturbed, and sick compared to those in an alien environment.

Considering that most cichlid species enjoy digging in the wild, a sand or gravel bottom that allows them to enjoy this natural behavior only seems fair to the fish.

Rooting Medium for Plants

While some cichlids like East African types and Oscars can’t easily be kept with plants, many others love to dwell in heavily planted tanks and look even more impressive when immersed in swathes of dense foliage.

South American cichlids like discus, severums, and angelfish in particular, love planted tanks and the presence of live plants may even improve their health, vitality, and vivid colors.

Because most plant species need to be anchored in sand or gravel, installing substrate opens up far more options in the diversity of plants you can grow.

A Medium for Beneficial Bacteria

A slightly less obvious reason that substrate is useful is to host beneficial bacteria.

If you’ve been in the hobby for a while, you’ll likely know that nitrifying bacteria that convert harmful ammonia into nitrates are essential to keep your tank healthy.

While most people know that these bacteria live within their filter, less realize that their tank’s substrate is also heaving with these helpful critters! By including sand or gravel, you’re increasing the living habitat for them which could come in especially useful if your filter fails!

Bare-Bottom vs Substrate Cichlid Tanks FAQs

Do Bare-Bottom Tanks Require Décor?

While it’s less easy to plant bare-bottom tanks, they shouldn’t be left without décor altogether!

Remember that cichlids love to hide, so some floating plants, rocks, and driftwood are still very welcome to help them feel secure.

At the very least, some pieces of PVC pipe will offer the fish somewhere to hide, even if they look terrible!

Can I Place Rocks Directly on the Glass of a Bare-Bottom Tank?

Unless your rocks have incredibly smooth bottoms, they should never be placed directly on the tank’s glass. As many aquarists will regretfully tell you, any slightly jagged edge of a rock can crack aquarium glass when placed in direct contact.

Fish keepers have come up with different ways to protect glass from rock edges. From filter pads to rings of PVC piping, to egg boxes, aquarists have come up with some clever ways to cushion the bottom of their aquariums from the unthinkable crack.

Alternatively, lightweight PVC offers another option for hiding places if you can bear the sight of it.

How Do I Keep Gravel Clean?

Because some aquarists are opting for bare bottom tanks over substrate purely for the convenience of cleaning, it’s worth pointing out here how easy it is to clean gravel.

While sand is a little bit more tricky to clean without sucking up the particles, gravel can easily be cleaned with an aquarium vacuum cleaner.

We’ve made very simple versions with a plastic soda bottle cut in half, and attached to a hose pipe, but there are many purpose-made aquarium vacuums on the market, too.

Conclusion

You’ve probably guessed by now that in general, we’re bigger fans of tanks with substrate than bare-bottom tanks!

Not only does a sand or gravel bottom look better, but they also offer your cichlids a place to dig, help them to feel at home, and allow you to grow a wider range of plants.

On the other hand, it must be remembered that some fish breeders still prefer bare-bottomed tanks for the conveniences that they claim they offer. To look into the nuances of the argument further, take a trip to an aquarium forum where the issue is hotly debated!

The post Should You Try Bare-Bottom Tanks for Cichlids? Experts Explain What You Need to Know appeared first on Aquariadise.

But while many people claim that UV sterilizers are useful for clearing up cloudy or green water, there are other ways to do that, too. So do you really need this optional aquarium accessory? Here, you’ll find out.

What Is a UV Sterilizer?

A UV sterilizer is an optional piece of aquarium equipment used to reduce the presence of algae, bacteria, and other pathogens within the water column.

The unit works by running the tank’s water past a germicidal fluorescent UV lamp that damages the DNA of the microorganisms within the water column, thereby preventing them from reproducing and reducing their numbers within days.

UV sterilizers are usually either standalone units that use a motor to pump water through a sealed chamber or are passive units without a motor that rely on a canister filter to pump water through them.

Very occasionally, canister filters and hang-on-back filters come with UV sterilizers already installed.

When Are UV Sterilizers Used?

Most aquarium owners don’t use UV sterilizers as they are strictly an optional accessory. Those who do choose to keep one typically only turn it on for short periods to treat green or cloudy water, and to help contain bacterial or even parasitic and fungal infections.

For Treating Green or Cloudy Water

UV sterilizers are especially useful in clearing water of algal blooms that turn the water green, or bacteria blooms that make the water cloudy. When effective, UV treatment may even clear the water within a few days.

For Treating Infectious Diseases

Some aquarists also believe that, when used at the right time, UV sterilizers can help to contain outbreaks of parasitic infections like ich and help to reduce the chances of bacterial infections on vulnerable specimens.

While a UV bulb won’t cure fish infections without additional treatments such as medication, it may help to reduce the pathogens from reproducing, as well as reduce the risks of further outbreaks.

Because of this, some aquarists choose to turn their UV units on when their fish are particularly stressed or injured and therefore more susceptible to infection.

When UV Sterilizers Won’t Help

It must be understood that UV sterilizers can only treat microbes that are already suspended within the water column. Organisms that already are floating on the surface or adhered to rocks, glass, plants, gravel, or your aquatic pets won’t run through the unit and are therefore left untreated.

So, while UV can be very effective for treating algae and cyanobacteria suspended in the water, it won’t be much help for treating algae outbreaks on your substrate, glass, and aquarium décor. Similarly, it will only treat parasites in the phase where their offspring are suspended in the water.

Additionally, UV sterilizers are unlikely to help if your water has been stained yellow or brown. Such coloration is usually caused by tannins that are released by materials such as driftwood, peat, or dead leaves.

In some cases, tannins are beneficial, but they can also be removed with a carbon filter if you prefer to get rid of them.

When UV Sterilizes Should Never Be Used: Cycling a New Aquarium

The one instance where UV sterilizers could prove truly detrimental is when a new aquarium is being cycled.

During cycling, beneficial nitrifying bacteria are busy reproducing and spreading themselves around the aquarium. Not only do they take up residency in your filter, but they also proliferate in the tank’s gravel, and even among rocks and plants.

Since the UV light will sterilize any nitrifying bacteria that are suspended in the water and passing through it, it should always be switched off until the bacterial colonies are firmly established and the tank is fully cycled.

The Pros of Using UV Sterilizers

• Clears green water by combating algae and cyanobacteria in the water column
• Clears cloudy water by reducing bacterial blooms in the water column
• Reduces the number of active pathogens such as bacteria, parasites, fungi, and viruses that are suspended in the water
• Motorized models increase water circulation and potentially aeration, too
• Usually quiet and discreet

The Cons of UV Treatment in Fish Tanks

• Extra investment and increased electricity costs
• Bulbs need replacing every 6-24 months (typically around 9 months) if the unit is left on and some models don’t feature replaceable bulbs
• Doesn’t treat algae and pathogens that are adhered to the rocks, plants, glass, or gravel
• May prove ineffective if bulbs are not strong enough or water passes through the unit too quickly

Featured Products

As we’ve already discussed, UV sterilizers either come as stand-alone units or are attached to an existing canister filter. Here we take a closer look at popular models of each kind that have been receiving the most positive reviews from customers.

COODIA Internal Green Water Killer Aquarium Filter Tank U-V Pump

COODIA Green Water Killer Aquarium Filter

Check Price on Amazon

We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

If you want to try a UV sterilizer without breaking the bank, this handy little standalone unit offers a great solution. While much cheaper than models from big brands, customers of the COODIA ‘Green Water Killer’ report equally high satisfaction rates.

The unit runs on just 5 watts of electricity, meaning it’ll add very little to your electricity bill. Handy features like an optional air intake/bubbler and LED light to indicate when the UV bulb needs replacing shows thoughtful design, too.

Suitable for saltwater and freshwater tanks, many customers confirm that it can clear up green water in 3-7 days. While the manufacturers claim it can handle tanks of up to 75 gallons (more than many of its competitors), some users with larger tanks have reported it less effective.

What we like:

• Very inexpensive
• Mostly upbeat reviews suggest the unit is effective in most situations
• Very low 5-watt energy consumption
• Optional air intake allows for increased aeration
• Indicator light signals time for bulb replacement

What we don’t like:

• Equipment from lesser-known brands is sometimes less reliable
• Some customers have reported faulty parts
• Customers with tanks over 50-gallons sometimes report ineffective performance

Fluval In-Line UV-C Clarifier

Fluval In Line UVC Clarifier for Aquariums

Check Price on Amazon

We earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

An efficient passive UV sterilizer from a trusted brand, the Fluval In-Line Clarifier has been designed to attach to canister filters with 5/8” (16 mm) hosing.

As you’d expect from Fluval, the model features innovative technology such as CCFL (Cold Cathode Fluorescent Light) technology that runs cooler than traditional UVC bulbs and lasts up to 30,000 hours (3X longer).

Most customers report high levels of satisfaction with performance and the 2-year warranty offers reassurance that the unit has been made to last.

Important: Please check your canister filter’s hosing diameter is compatible before purchasing, as some models such as the Fluval FX series feature incompatible hosing!

What we like:

• Fluval is a veteran brand renowned for solid workmanship and products you can trust
• Good reviews suggest this sterilizer is effective for a wide variety of applications
• Compact design means the unit is discreet and takes up little tank space
• A 2-year warranty for defective parts and workmanship gives extra confidence in product quality

What we don’t like:

• While the UV bulb is long-lasting, it can’t be replaced
• Not compatible with all sizes of canister filter hosing

Alternatives to UV Treatment

The most common reason for people installing a UV filter is to clear up green or cloudy water, but for that job, other alternatives can be equally effective and sometimes even longer lasting.

Better Tank Maintenance

Green or cloudy water in aquaria usually indicates poor water quality that has become too high in nutrients.

When uneaten fish food, dead leaves, algae, and fish waste break down, nitrates and phosphates are released into the water which causes algae and bacteria to bloom. While UV sterilization might help to reduce the symptoms, it’s much better to tackle the root cause of the problem.

Here’s our quick list of tank maintenance basics for keeping water quality and water clarity consistently high:

• Get yourself a good filter and clean it every 2-3 weeks
• Vacuum your substrate every 1-2 weeks
• Make partial water changes of 15-35% every 1-2 weeks, with treated water of matching temperature
• Test your aquarium’s water at least once a month, or any time your fish seem unwell

Reduce Feeding

Because uneaten fish food and excessive fish waste are such major causes of poor-quality water that becomes cloudy, it’s imperative to avoid overfeeding. Indeed, overfeeding is one of the leading causes of poor water quality and fish health issues, especially for beginners.

To overcome this unnecessary issue, never feed more than your fish can eat within 2 minutes. Clean up any leftover food before it begins to break down and foul your water.

Carbon Filtration

You may have noticed that many aquarium filters on the market feature carbon filtration, but not all aquarists are well-versed in what that means.

Typically, carbon filtration refers to a filter compartment that houses small pieces of activated carbon, also known as activated charcoal. As water passes through the carbon, its sponge-like structure effectively draws out very small impurities that other types of filter media miss.

By reducing small particles, tannins, and certain dissolved nutrients in the water such as phosphates, carbon filters remove the food that problematic algae and bacteria thrive on, effectively reducing their numbers within days.

While results may not be as fast or dramatic as UV sterilization, when combined with good tank maintenance, carbon filters will usually help your water to remain crystal clear in the long run.

The Downsides of Carbon Filtration

If you do decide to install a carbon filter, just be warned that some of the nutrients it filters out are also necessary for plant growth. Phosphates, in particular, are very important for healthy plant growth, meaning that some planted aquarium enthusiasts avoid carbon filtration altogether.

Additionally, carbon will also filter out many types of fish medication as well as tannins from the water. So, if you are attempting to medicate your fish or aiming to create amber-colored, tannin-filled water, carbon filtration isn’t an option.

Conclusion – Do You Need a UV Sterilizer?

After weighing up the pros and cons of UV sterilizers, what’s the verdict? We conclude that most aquarium owners don’t need a UV sterilizer, but some might find one useful.

With proper tank maintenance and the option of carbon filtration, most aquariums should retain clear water, free from excessive algal or bacterial blooms – which renders UV sterilization unnecessary.

On the other hand, if you’ve tried everything else and are still having difficulties in achieving clear water, you could give one a try. UV treatment may be especially appropriate for those who want crystal-clear water without having to use a carbon filter.

The post Should You Try UV Sterilizers in Your Aquarium? Experts Explain What You Need to Know appeared first on Aquariadise.

However, that’s not the case with every fish species. So read this guide to discover ten fish species known for their playful behavior and interaction, adding a lively dynamic to the aquarium.

Key Takeaways

• Explore the unexpected playful side of pet fish, from Bettas performing tricks to Goldfish interacting with their owners.
• Aquarists can find joy in the unique behaviors and interactive qualities of various fish, including the ornate swimming of Neon Tetras and the symbiotic relationship between Clownfish and their anemones.
• Success in keeping these engaging creatures comes from attention to each species’ environment and nutritional needs, underscoring the rewarding nature of the fishkeeping hobby.

Summary Table

Here’s a handy table summarizing the key facts you’ll need to know if you want to take home any of our featured fish and add them to your aquarium!

Summary Table of Playful Fish Species

Betta Fish (Betta splendens)

Betta fish, also known as Siamese Fighting Fish, are popular freshwater aquarium fish best known for their vibrant colors and fancy, flowing finnage.

Bettas come from Asia, especially Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, and Vietnam, where they inhabit shallow, slow-moving waters like rice paddies, ponds, and marshes. These labyrinth fish are relatively hardy and adaptable, preferring a mainly carnivorous diet of insect larvae, insects, and small crustaceans. That said, they do enjoy nibbling on algae and small amounts of plant matter to supplement their diet.

Betta fish are not only beautiful but also have great personalities! They usually learn to recognize their owners and can be trained to do tricks like swimming through hoops and jumping out of the water to grab a morsel of food from your fingers.

If you’re planning on getting a betta fish for a pet, bear in mind these fish can be pretty aggressive, and you can never keep two males together in the same tank.

Dwarf Gourami (Trichogaster lalius)

The beautiful Dwarf gourami is known for its curious behavior and interactive nature. The species’ vibrant colors and unique patterns make it a firm favorite with aquarists. These fish come in a range of colors, including red, blue, and green, and have a distinctive iridescent, metallic sheen that makes them stand out in any setup.

Dwarf gouramis are quite small, reaching only around 3 inches long at maturity, and are native to the slow-moving waters of South and Southeast Asia.

I love keeping Dwarf Gouramis as pets for their curious nature and interactive behavior. My gouramis seem to enjoy following me when I walk past their tank and dart to the water’s surface to grab a mouthful of air. These curious fish spend much of their day exploring their environment, playing with tank decorations and toys, such as a ping pong ball floating on the surface.

Jack Dempsey Cichlid (Rocio octofasciata)

Jack Dempsey cichlids are popular freshwater aquarium fish known for their playful behavior and unique appearance.

These South American natives are named after the famous boxer due to their aggressive and feisty nature. They can reach 10 inches long when fully grown, so large fish tanks are required to accommodate one of these guys.

Although not renowned for their ability to perform tricks, Jack Dempsey cichlids are still pretty interactive, curious, and playful. These fish have a love of rearranging the hardscape you worked hard to set up, moving rocks and decorations around to their liking. On the downside, Jack Dempseys can be aggressive towards other fish, although they can live with other larger, similarly belligerent species in a large enough tank.

Goldfish (Carassius auratus)

Goldfish are my favorite freshwater fish and have been for over 40 years!

They come in many different varieties, ranging in size from 6 to 8-inch fancy types to 12-inch long pond fish. You can keep most types of goldfish in a large tank, although most are happier living in a spacious garden pond with plenty of swimming space.

In addition to their amazing variety of colors, goldfish can be quite interactive. For example, my goldfish would beg for food whenever I passed their aquarium and would investigate my fingers when I was carrying out water changes and vacuuming the substrate. I even trained my Orandas to take food morsels from my fingers!

Neon Tetras (Paracheirodon innesi)

Fish like Neon Tetras are known for their schooling behavior, which can be fascinating to watch as they dart around the tank and interact with each other.

These brightly colored little fish can be quite skittish, and it’s entertaining to watch them flitting through clumps of dense plants and exploring their tank decorations. Neons are somewhat easier to care for than their slightly larger cousins, Cardinal tetras, and make just as impressive a display when kept in large groups of ten or more.

That said, these swimming gems need a well-maintained tank, stable water parameters, and a high-quality diet to thrive.

Clownfish

The movie Finding Nemo made Clownfish famous, although they were already an extremely popular go-to marine fish that graced many beginner’s saltwater tanks.

These beauties are well-known for their playful antics and interaction with their owners. They beg for food and come up to the viewing panes to see what you’re up to when you pass their aquarium.

Although Clownfish won’t talk to you like the piscine movie star, they will enjoy a symbiotic relationship with their anemone if you provide one. The interactive relationship between the Clownfish and the anemone is a fascinating one. The Clownfish is immune to the anemone’s stinging tentacles, using them as protection from would-be predators. The anemone enjoys devouring the Clownfish’s leftovers and also receives its protection from predators.

Guppies (Poecilia reticulata)

Guppies are lively and colorful fish who enjoy swimming around the tank and interacting with their tank mates. They also breed constantly, so you’ll never be short of replacements for any casualties if you keep this species!

I remember keeping a whole bunch of guppies in a large community tank one time. Those beautiful little fish kept me entertained for hours, their bright colors flashing through the lush plants in the aquarium was quite a site, as they chased each other, and looked for food scraps at feeding time.

Another highly entertaining habit my guppies had was hanging around in the filter outflow, using the current to carry them up to the water’s surface, and diving back down to start the ride over, time and again!

Kuhli Loaches (Pangio kuhlii)

Kuhli Loaches are slender, eel-like fish that are known for their playful behavior, often darting in and out of hiding spots in the aquarium at lightning speed.

These rather cool, oddball fish are fascinating or freaky, depending on how you look at it! Although they don’t eat algae, these weird fish can still make excellent clean-up crew members, scavenging scraps of leftover food. That said, you need to feed them to prevent them from going hungry. The loaches enjoy sinking pellets, frozen bloodworms, and live blackworms.

If you have a moonlight setting on your aquarium lighting unit, try watching the Khuli loaches at night since they tend to be most active and less shy once the sun goes down. You can keep these fish in a planted tank, and they do well in a community tank with snails, shrimp, and other peaceful fish species.

Plecos (Hypostomus plecostomus)

Plecos, also known as plecostomus or sucker-mouth catfish, are a diverse group of freshwater fish belonging to the family Loricariidae. They are popular among aquarium enthusiasts for their distinctive appearance and algae-eating habits.

Several popular species are available, including the bizarre-looking Bristlenose pleco with its bristly snout, the Rubber Lip pleco, and the beautifully colored Gold Nugget pleco. Don’t make the mistake of taking home a juvenile Common pleco unless you have a very large tank since these fish can reach over a foot in length!

Plecos are known for their algae-eating behavior, which helps to keep aquariums clean. These fish are typically nocturnal, spending much of their day resting on surfaces or hiding in caves or crevices. So, if you want to watch them play and interact with their environment, you must be a night owl with a moonlight setting on your tank lighting system!

Corydoras Catfish (Corydoras paleatus)

Corydoras catfish are another of my favorite aquarium fish species and have featured in all my tanks.

These cute little fish only grow to a couple of inches long and come in many different varieties, all of which are peaceful and work well in a community aquarium. Corys come from the coastal rivers in Brazil and Uraguay, especially the lower Paraná River basin, and have been favorites with hobbyists for many decades.

Corys do best when kept in small groups of at least five individuals, sitting on the substrate and resting for much of the day. Then, just when you were watching your other fish cruising gracefully around the tank, a cory flies abruptly up to the surface to snatch a gulp of air before plunging back to the substrate again.

As a bonus, these highly entertaining little fish are incredibly hardy and will provide you with up to seven years of fun.

Final Thoughts

If you thought keeping fish was a boring hobby, I hope this article has made you think again!

As you’ve learned, you can keep many highly entertaining, playful, interactive fish in a basic freshwater aquarium setup. Provided you give your chosen fish species a well-maintained environment and a high-quality diet, your aquatic pets should provide you with years of fascinating viewing.

The post Top 10 Fish That Enjoy Playing: Interactive Species for Your Aquarium appeared first on Aquariadise.

Beginners are often put off keeping living plants, assuming they’re difficult to care for. Although some species are indeed more challenging to keep than others, we’ve found ten ideal beginner plants. These species stand out for their resilience and simplicity of care, and they look great, too!

Keep reading to discover ten perfect aquarium plants for beginners!

Key Takeaways

• Incorporating aquatic plants like the suggested ten varieties can beautify an aquarium while improving water quality and creating natural hideaways for fish, with minimal upkeep required.
• All our highlighted plants, including Java Fern, Java Moss, and Anubias, are hardy and resilient, adaptable to various lighting conditions, and don’t need complex care routines, making them ideal for novices.
• These plants offer simple propagation techniques, such as cutting rhizomes or planting baby plants, allowing aquarium enthusiasts to multiply their greenery effectively and economically.

Summary Table

*Please note that the sizes are averages and can vary depending on the specific conditions within your aquarium. The average cost can vary widely depending on your region, the source of the plant, and its size or growth stage at the time of purchase.

Java Fern (Microsorum pteropus)

Java Fern is native to the tropical regions of Southeast Asia, where it thrives along the shaded banks of slow-moving streams and rivers. This popular, easy-care plant has dark green, leathery leaves that add an elegant touch to any tank as they sway gently in the current.

Java fern prefers low to moderate light and can be attached to driftwood or rocks with fishing lines or twine, making it a favorite among aquarists seeking easy yet striking foliage. You can propagate the plant in three different ways:

• Separate the plant at the rhizome, using a sharp pair of scissors or a knife to cut the rhizome into sections, making sure each section has a few leaves attached. Plant each section in the substrate or attach it to a piece of rock or wood in the aquarium.
• Java fern occasionally produces small plantlets on the underside of its leaves. Gently twist a plantlet off the leaf and plant it in the substrate where you want it to grow. The tiny plant will put out roots and grow pretty quickly in its new location.
• Java fern can also be propagated from spores, although this method is more challenging and time-consuming. You collect the spores from the underside of a mature plant’s leaves and put them in a container with water, then wait for them to germinate. Once the spores have germinated, you can plant them in the substrate or attach them to rock or wood.

Anubias (Anubias spp.)

Anubias originates from the riverbanks and marshes of Africa and is an excellent exotic plant choice for newbies to the hobby.

With its broad, dark green leaves and sturdy rhizome structure, all varieties of Anubias are pretty hardy and require minimal care. The plant thrives in low to moderate light, rooted in the substrate or attached to hardscape elements in your tank. Anubias does best in low to moderate light, doesn’t need additional supplementation, and provides an attractive refuge for your aquarium’s aquatic inhabitants.

You can propagate Anubias in several ways.

• Use a sharp pair of scissors or a knife to cut the rhizome into small pieces, ensuring each section has a few leaves attached. You can choose to attach the sections to a piece of rock or wood in the aquarium or plant them into the substrate. Make sure you plant the rhizome above the substrate, as burying it can cause it to rot.
• Anubias can also be propagated by cutting off a leaf with a healthy root attached and planting it in the substrate, making sure the root is buried.
• Some Anubias varieties produce small plantlets on the underside of their leaves. Simply plant the plantlet in the substrate in your desired location.

Be gentle when handling the plants so you don’t damage the rhizome or roots. With a little patience and care, your Anubias should propagate easily and provide you with plenty of new plants to add to your aquarium.

Cryptocoryne (Cryptocoryne spp.)

Crytopcoryne is found in Asia’s lush rainforests and marshy areas, where it grows in shallow streams and ponds.

Crypto has broad leaves in shades of green, red, or brown, adding a gorgeous splash of color and texture to aquariums. This versatile tropical plant prefers low to moderate light, making it ideal for a standard tank setup. The plant grows best when provided with a little additional supplementation.

You can propagate all varieties of Cryptocoryne through division or by planting the offshoots it produces.

• When your Crypto plant has grown large enough, you can carefully remove it from the substrate. Gently separate the roots and rhizome into smaller sections, ensuring each has both roots and leaves. Plant these divisions back into the substrate.
• Cryptocoryne plants often produce runners or daughter plants, which are effectively mini versions of the parent plant attached by a runner. When the offshoots have developed their own root system and a few leaves, you can carefully detach them from the parent plant and replant them in the substrate.

Amazon Sword (Echinodorus spp.)

This plant is native to the waterways of Central and South America and is a favorite with many aquarists. Although it’s a tropical plant, I’ve grown it successfully with goldfish in a cold water setup. Since goldfish tend to uproot and destroy aquatic plants, the fact this species did so well is a testament to its resilience!

Amazon Sword plants have long, sword-shaped leaves that reach towards the light, hence their the species’ common name. The plant grows in dense stands along the banks of rivers and lakes, where it provides welcome shelter for fish and other aquatic creatures.

Although this species prefers moderate to high light and benefits from supplementation with root tabs, this hardy plant grows to an impressive size in your tank. Therefore, this plant does best in a large tank with plenty of space to grow.

You can propagate Amazon Sword in a couple of ways:

• When the plant is mature, take it out of the substrate and separate the roots and rhizome into small sections with both leaves and roots. Replant the sections in the substrate.
• Amazon Swords often produce plantlets on their flower stalks, which develop roots while still attached to the parent plant. Once the roots are visible, detach the plantlet and replant it in the substrate.

Avoid disturbing the plants excessively after replanting to allow them to establish themselves effectively.

Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum)

Hornwort is found in freshwater ecosystems worldwide, thriving in ponds, lakes, and slow-moving streams.

The plant has fine, bushy foliage and grows incredibly quickly, making it a favorite among experienced and beginner hobbyists alike. You can grow Hornwort free-floating as a surface plant or anchored in the substrate since it grows equally well in high or low-light environments.

You can propagate Hornwort easily in two ways:

• Break off pieces of the stem and replant them in your aquarium substrate. Note that each fragment needs a few leaves and some of the stem intact.
• Alternatively, simply allow the plant to float freely in your tank. Eventually, the plant will produce new shoots and roots from the nodes along its stem. Once established, separate the growth from the main plant and plant them into the substrate.

Regular pruning is essential for this fast-growing plant to prevent overcrowding and maintain the shape you want.

Java Moss (Taxiphyllum barbieri)

This plant comes from Southeast Asia’s thick, shady forests, where it carpets rocks and fallen branches along the banks of streams and rivers. Java Moss’s bushy growth habit and vibrant green color make it a popular choice for aquascaping enthusiasts.

Even better, the plant needs minimal care, thrives in low light conditions, and doesn’t require additional supplementation to thrive.

Propagating Java Moss is quite straightforward.

• You can propagate Java Moss by simply dividing the existing plant into smaller portions and gently pulling it into smaller clumps. Each clump should have some healthy moss strands attached to it.
• Use a short length of fishing line or cotton thread to attach the portions of Java Moss to driftwood, rocks, or mesh pads. Once attached, the plant will continue to grow and spread over the surface until the entire area is covered.

Regularly trim your Java Moss with scissors to control its size and prevent it from becoming too dense.

Water Wisteria (Hygrophila difformis)

This charming plant is native to the marshes and floodplains of India and Southeast Asia, where it grows in shallow streams and ponds.

Water Wisteria’s delicate, fern-like leaves and dense growth habit bring elegance to the aquarium. This beautiful plant provides the perfect hiding place for shy fish and fry and is surprisingly easy to grow in moderate light without needing supplements.

You can propagate Water Wisteria in your aquarium in several ways:

• Use sharp scissors or pruning shears to cut a healthy stem from the parent plant. The stem should be at least 3 to 4 inches long with several leaves attached. Remove the bottom leaves, and plant the stem in the substrate, where it will quickly become established.
• If the plant is large enough, you can divide it into smaller plants. Take the plant from the substrate and gently separate the roots into smaller sections with a few stems and leaves attached. Plant each section in the substrate.

Water Sprite (Ceratopteris thalictroides)

Water Sprite is a versatile plant found in freshwater habitats worldwide, from Asia to Africa and the Americas.

With its finely divided, feathery leaves and rapid growth habit, this plant provides excellent cover for fish and fry. Whether you leave it to float on the water’s surface or plant it in the substrate, the adaptable Water Sprite plant does equally well in low to moderate light conditions.

You can propagate Water Sprite in a couple of ways:

• To propagate through division, carefully remove the plant from the substrate and divide it into smaller sections, each with a few leaves and a healthy root system. Plant each section in the substrate or attach it to a piece of rock or wood.
• Remove plantlets from the parent plant. Ensure each baby plant has an established root system and plant it in the substrate.

Duckweed (Lemna minor)

Duckweed grows rapidly in ponds, lakes, and slow-moving rivers worldwide, often spreading to cover the entire water’s surface.

Thanks to its rapid reproduction rate and ability to absorb excess nutrients from the water, duckweed is an extremely valuable and popular addition to any fish tank. It needs very little care, thriving in low to moderate light and needing no supportive supplementation.

You don’t need to worry about propagating this plant! Duckweed spreads incredibly rapidly through division. You’ll need to be prepared to thin out and remove quite a lot of it to prevent the plant from taking over your tank. For that reason, this plant is recommended for larger setups only, as it will quickly choke a small tank if allowed to grow unchecked.

Vallisneria (Vallisneria spp.)

Vallisneria grows in many temperate and tropical regions worldwide and is a popular aquarium plant prized for its long, ribbon-like leaves and graceful swaying motion.

This elegant yet hardy plant prefers moderate to low light conditions and gets most of its nutrition from the water column and photosynthesis.

Vallisneria propagates primarily through runners that grow along the substrate. Nodes along the runners develop into new plantlets, which can be left attached to the mother plant until they have developed roots and can be separated. Once the plantlets have developed roots, gently separate them from the mother plant and replant them in the substrate.

Final Thoughts

You can have a beautifully aquascaped aquarium, even if you’re not an expert horticulturist, by choosing some of the plant varieties we’ve featured in this guide!

All these plants are easy to grow, maintain, and propagate, and none need specialist lighting or fancy supplementation to thrive. Simply remove dead leaves, trim overgrowth, and thin out the plants when necessary, and you’ll be rewarded with healthy plants, a gorgeous aquascape to gaze at, and happy fish!

The post 10 Aquarium Plants for Beginners: Stylish and Simple appeared first on Aquariadise.

Experts hope to steer the aquarium fish trade away from taking specimens from the wild environment. Wild fish are often caught with poisons that can damage coral ecosystems and in some cases, numbers are becoming seriously depleted. So, the more successful commercial and home breeding operations are, the better it is for our wild fish.

This article discusses the tenworst breeding tips that seasoned aquarium fish breeders have ever heard. We also explain how to go about breeding aquarium fish the right way!

Key Takeaways

• Sustainable fishkeeping is promoted by successful home breeding, which lessens the reliance on wild-caught fish, helping to protect natural habitats and fish stocks.
• Many popular but misguided breeding tips can lead to negative results, such as poor fry survival rates and unhealthy breeding conditions.
• Expert breeding advice emphasizes the importance of controlled environmental conditions, correct feeding strategies, and avoidance of stress-inducing practices for successful reproduction and fry rearing.

Just Let Them Do Their Thing!

Unfortunately, many amateur breeders recommend allowing nature to take its course and letting the fish do their thing without human help. That rather laissez-faire attitude towards breeding can lead to overcrowding, inbreeding, and neglect of proper care for the fry.

Add More Fish for Better Chances

When setting up a spawning tank, you should include breeding pairs of male and female fish that are in excellent health and spawning condition.

Some people recommend adding a few more fish to your breeding tank, mistakenly thinking that will increase the chance of the fish breeding. However, that approach is counterproductive, as introducing more fish into an established breeding tank can stress the breeding pair and disrupt their breeding behaviors.

Skip Water Changes During Spawning

This terrible tip goes hand-in-hand with the recommendation to allow nature to take its course.

Poor water quality will result if you don’t carry out water changes in your spawning tank. When that happens, the fish might not breed at all, and if they do, their fry won’t be healthy and will likely die pretty quickly.

Ideally, you should change around 20% of the breeding tank water daily, vacuuming away any waste during the process. That prevents fish waste and uneaten food from accumulating in the tank, producing ammonia as it decomposes, potentially poisoning your fish.

Feed Only Live Foods

Most fish living in the wild environment eat a varied diet that includes a small amount of algae and plant material. Although feeding your fish live food is undoubtedly good for them, relying solely on those foods can lead to nutritional deficiencies.

Throughout the breeding process and in the build-up to it, feeding your fish a balanced diet of live, frozen, and high-quality dry foods is essential.

Handle the Eggs and Fry Frequently

Some misguided breeders suggest handling the eggs and fry as often as possible. However, excessive handling of eggs or fry causes stress and increases the risk of disease transmission.

Fit a piece of very fine mesh across the tank bottom to prevent the parent fish from eating their eggs. When the eggs are laid, they drop through the mesh and out of the parents’ reach.

However, that approach only works with egg-scattering fish species. If the eggs are deposited on plant leaves or spawning mops, the best thing to do is remove the parent fish so the eggs can develop and hatch safely. In fact, in most cases, it’s best to return the parents to your main tank, leaving the fry to develop and grow in peace.

Of course, there are exceptions, and some fish, such as Kribensis, make very good parents, guarding their young until they can fend for themselves. In that case, you should leave the parents in the spawning tank with their babies.

Keep the Breeding Tank in Total Darkness

Some hobbyists recommend keeping the breeding tank in total darkness to encourage spawning. However, fish need a clear day-night cycle for natural behavior, including breeding.

In the wild, lengthening days and increasing water temperatures tell fish that it’s time to spawn. If you deprive them of light for long periods, the fish won’t breed and could even die.

Use Preventative Medication

Some breeders like to use medications prophylactically to prevent diseases from affecting their fish. However, administering medications without a clear indication can disrupt the delicate balance of the aquarium ecosystem and harm both the breeding pair and their offspring.

Ideally, your fish will be in prime condition before you attempt to breed from them. Provided your spawning tank is clean and correctly set up, you should have no issues with diseases, so preventative medication is not necessary.

Ignore Tank Size Requirements

You’ll read many online articles that recommend using a small tank for breeding purposes.

However, breeding pairs need plenty of space not only for spawning but also to accommodate territorial behaviors and allow proper care of the offspring. If the tank is too small, the fish could become stressed, which could lead to aggression and possible injuries. Also, in some cases, a stressed-out parent will eat its eggs and fry; always provide your fish with a large breeding tank.

Mix Different Species for Hybrid Vigor

Hybrid vigor, also known as heterosis, refers to the phenomenon where the offspring of genetically diverse parents show improved growth, health, a longer lifespan, or other desirable characteristics.

Hybrid vigor arises due to the combination of favorable alleles from each parent, leading to increased genetic diversity and overall fitness in the offspring. That’s why crossbreed dogs are currently so popular. Agricultural breeding programs also use hybrid vigor, crossing different strains of wheat, barley, and the like.

However, when it comes to fish breeding, hybridization often leads to unpredictable results and can produce genetically weak offspring prone to health issues. For that reason, breeding should be done within the same fish species whenever possible.

Don’t Worry About Water Parameters

Ignoring water parameters such as pH, temperature, and hardness can lead to unsuccessful breeding attempts or health issues in the offspring and parents.

For that reason, it’s crucial to maintain stable and appropriate water conditions. Ideally, the water parameters should match those in the main display tank, although the water temperature can be a few degrees warmer, as that often triggers spawning.

For example, Indonesian ornamental fish breeder Tom Bowling tried to breed Blotched Anthias for eight months and failed dismally.

Thinking he was doing the right thing, Bowling kept the fish in cool water, attempting to replicate the temperatures these deep-water fish are typically in in their natural habitat. It was only when his air conditioning unit broke, and the water temperature increased overnight by a few degrees, that he realized his mistake. In the warmer water, the fish immediately began spawning!

Top Fish Breeding Tips!

Now you know how not to do it, here are some top breeders’ tips for successful fish breeding.

When’s the Best Time to Breed Fish?

As we mentioned earlier, most fish species breed in the spring, when the daylight lengthens and the water gets warmer.

You can mimic this in your home fish tank at any time by increasing the water temperature slightly, leaving the lights on for a little longer each day, and performing more frequent water changes.

Provide both male and female fish with high-protein food and create an environment as close to their natural one as possible, and you will condition the fish to spawn. Different fish species have different egg-laying manners, so you must research the species carefully and provide them with suitable breeding surfaces, plant types, and aquarium setups.

How To Choose a Breeding Pair of Fish?

On tropical fish farms in Asia and Florida, fish are encouraged to spawn in spring, usually indoors. The fry is transferred to outdoor ponds to grow before being shipped to aquarium stores. There’s plenty of live food in the ponds for the youngsters to eat from the start, and they are then offered pellets to promote further healthy growth. The young fish will be well-developed and mature enough to breed by the fall.

Start by choosing fish with no obvious physical deformities, of a good size, and with the best colors.

How to Condition Your Fish for Breeding?

Before you can attempt to breed from your fish, you need to bring them into spawning condition.

• Give the fish plenty of high-protein food, feeding them more often than you would usually feed your community aquarium fish, ideally several times every day. Live brine shrimp or frozen meaty foods are ideal for this.
• Provide the breeding pair with their own dedicated spawning tank, set up with the appropriate substrate or decor, depending on the species’ method of egg-laying or livebearing.
• Most breeders recommend keeping male and female fish separate for a few weeks to increase their likelihood of spawning once they get together. To do that, you can use a glass partition in the tank so that the fish can fully view each other.
• Increase the water temperature in the breeding tank by a few degrees to around 78o to 82o degrees F, depending on the species. The idea is to have the temperature slightly warmer than it is in your community tank.

Once you’ve done all those things, the female fish will become loaded with eggs or roe. Throughout the conditioning period, you must also keep the pH, water hardness, and alkalinity in line with what’s required by the species for spawning.

How To Produce Infusoria?

One of the biggest challenges facing novice fish breeders is how to feed the fry. You need a food source small enough for the babies to eat, and most aquarists and fish breeders use infusoria as their fry’s first food.

Infusoria are tiny organisms, including bacteria, algae, crustaceans, and protozoa in the water that the little fry can eat.

Growing infusoria is remarkably simple. Just place a lettuce leaf in your breeding tank as soon as spawning is complete. As the leaf gradually decomposes, enough infusoria are created to provide the fry with food for at least their first week. You can then remove the old leaf and replace it with a new one.

Once the young fish have grown enough, you can feed them finely powdered commercially prepared fry food or paste preparations, like Liquifry. After another couple of weeks, you can offer your fish frozen or live foods, such as bloodworms, daphnia, and brine shrimp.

What Size Spawning Tank Do You Need?

Remember, it’s not good practice to keep your breeding fish in a very small tank, as stress can disrupt the spawning process and stress your fish.

Most beginner fish species will do fine in a 10-gallon breeding tank, although larger species will need more spacious accommodation. Equip your spawning tank with a heater, an air pump, and a sponge filter that won’t trap the tiny fry.

Final Thoughts

There are plenty of terrible fish breeding tips out there on the net that you should ignore. In fact, rather than helping the novice breeder to succeed, much of that advice will guarantee that your fish won’t spawn at all!

For breeding success, condition your breeding pairs before adding them to your spawning tank by feeding them a high-quality diet for a few weeks beforehand. Keep your fish in a spacious breeding tank, carry out daily water changes to keep the environment clean and hygienic, and elevate temperature by a few degrees to trigger spawning.

Most fish species will eat their eggs and fry, so remember to remove the parents once the eggs have been laid.

The post The 10 Worst Fish Breeding Tips, and 5 Amazing Ones! appeared first on Aquariadise.

This guide explains how you can make those regular water changes much less stressful for your fish. I’ve also included some helpful tips on how to spot the signs of stress in your fish and what you can do to prevent this potentially serious condition from affecting your pets.

Key Takeaways

• Importance of Gentle Water Changes: Weekly water changes are crucial for maintaining a healthy fish tank but can be stressful for fish. It is essential to handle fish carefully with a soft mesh net, avoid major habitat disruptions whenever possible, and ensure gradual changes in water parameters to minimize fish stress.
• Recognizing Fish Stress: Stress in fish can be indicated by behavioral changes such as increased hiding, reduced appetite, rapid breathing, or erratic swimming. Long-term stress can weaken their immune system, making them susceptible to bacterial diseases and parasite attacks.
• Stress-Reducing Techniques: To reduce stress during water changes, it’s recommended to perform smaller, more frequent changes, use a drip system for gradual water introduction, carefully match water temperatures, acclimate fish properly, and use a water dechlorinator and stress coat additives.

Why Do Water Changes Cause Stress?

Although water changes in your fish tank are essential to keep the water clean and safe for your fish, they can cause stress in fish for several reasons:

Handling Stress

If you need to carry out a major water change, such as when taking down your tank for a deep clean or during a house move, you’ll need to move your fish physically.

Handling your fish is extremely stressful for them and should be done as infrequently as possible. Never try to pick up your fish with your bare hands! That’s seriously going to stress them out and could easily end in an accident.

Trying to scoop the fish up in a cup or jug is also likely to cause stress, especially if numerous attempts are needed to catch the fish.

Instead, use a proper fish net with fine, soft mesh to catch and move your fish. Try to avoid chasing the fish around the tank, as that’s sure to stress them. Be patient and allow the fish to settle, carefully nudging them toward a spot in the aquarium where you can get them safely into your net with minimal fuss.

Habitat Disturbance

When carrying out a water change, you generally need to move tank decorations and disturb the substrate with an aquarium vacuum cleaner to remove fish waste and uneaten food. Although necessary to do a thorough job, all that activity can disrupt the fish’s sense of security and territory.

In addition, some hobbyists like to move their tank ornaments around to provide the fish with a change of scenery and give human onlookers a fresh view of the tank. That’s quite a good idea for fish like bettas, who are territorial and intelligent and need plenty of mental stimulation to keep them happy. However, other fish species can become stressed when their environment suddenly changes or feel exposed without their usual hiding spots. You often get the same effect when you add a new decoration or plants to the tank, so allow a few days for the fish to settle down in their new environment.

Changes in Water Parameters

When you replace some of the tank water during a water change, you alter the chemical composition of the water. Even if you’re diligent about matching the temperature and treating the new water with a dechlorinator, subtle differences in pH, hardness, and other parameters can still occur.

Sudden changes in water parameters will stress your fish, as they are highly sensitive to fluctuations in their environment.

Altered Water Flow and Dissolved Oxygen Levels

When you remove water from the tank and then top it up with fresh water, you can change the water’s flow patterns and oxygen levels. Your fish have adapted to specific conditions, and sudden changes in water flow or dissolved oxygenation levels can stress them.

Take care when replacing your filter system that the outflow doesn’t cause a tidal wave where the water was previously calm. That’s sure to upset your fish, especially those that prefer a slow to moderate current.

Introduction of Contaminants

When adding tap water to your aquarium, always use a dechlorinator product to neutralize the chlorine, chloramine, and heavy metals in the water. If you don’t, you risk poisoning your fish, which will definitely stress them.

What Are the Signs of Stress in Aquarium Fish?

The following are all signs of stress in aquarium fish:

• Increased hiding, reduced appetite, excessive aggression, or lethargy can all indicate stress in fish.
• If the fish spend a lot of their time near the water’s surface, gasp for air, and show rapid or labored breathing, that’s a sign of stress, typically related to poor water quality or insufficient oxygen levels.
• Long-term stress can cause fish to lose their color, appearing faded or pale, while some develop blotches or dark patches.
• Stress often causes behavioral changes in fish, like abnormal swimming patterns, darting erratically, swimming upside down, and spinning around.
• If you’ve left the water change for too long, your fish might rub against objects in the aquarium or scratch themselves against surfaces, due to irritation from water quality issues.

Stress is potentially extremely dangerous for fish because it impacts their immune system, leaving the fish weakened and vulnerable to attack by bacteria and parasites.

How To Make Water Changes Less Stressful for Your Fish?

So, how can you make water changes less of an ordeal for your fish and minimize stress?

Take It Slowly

If you forget to carry out a water change one week or simply don’t get around to doing one until a few weeks later, it’s tempting to change half the water in your aquarium or even more.

That’s not great, as the violent changes in water parameters will stress your fish. In addition, beneficial bacteria colonies develop in established aquariums to help break down fish waste and other organic matter. Large water changes can disrupt these colonies, leading to spikes in harmful substances like ammonia and nitrites until the bacteria can re-establish themselves.

Instead of performing a large water change all at once, I recommend breaking it down into smaller, more frequent ones. This helps keep the water parameters stable, reducing the shock and stress to the fish.

Use Drip Systems

The use of a drip system allows for the very gradual introduction of fresh water into an aquarium, replicating the natural flow of water in streams and rivers. That gradual change avoids rapid fluctuations of water parameters and allows the fish to acclimate more easily to the new water conditions.

Avoid Temperature Shock

Temperature shock in aquarium fish happens when the water temperature in their aquarium fluctuates suddenly and significantly.

All fish species, from humble goldfish to glamorous discus, thrive in specific temperature ranges. When the water temperature deviates from this range, it can cause huge amounts of stress and potentially harm or even kill the fish.

So, how can temperature shock affect your fish?

• Sudden changes in temperature stress fish, weakening their immune systems, leaving them more susceptible to diseases, and causing a general failure to thrive.
• Temperature influences the fish’s metabolic rate. Rapid temperature changes can disrupt their metabolic processes, affecting digestion, respiration, and overall physiological functions.
• The water temperature affects the amount of dissolved oxygen the water contains. Warm water holds less oxygen than cool water, so a sudden temperature increase can reduce oxygen levels, leading to oxygen deprivation in fish, which can be fatal.
• Fish suffering from temperature shock can become lethargic, lose their appetite, or even become agitated or erratic in their behavior.

When carrying out water changes, ensure the temperature of the new water matches the tank temperature. To do that, pre-mix the replacement water and wait until it reaches the same temperature as the aquarium.

Use an accurate aquarium thermometer to double-check the water temperature in the tank before adding it to your tank.

Use Proper Acclimation Practices

If you had to take your fish out of the tank during cleaning and changing some water, don’t simply tip them back into the aquarium! That’s sure to stress your pets. The same applies when adding new fish to your tank.

Float the bag with the fish in the tank for around 20 minutes so that the temperatures have a chance to equalize. Then, gradually add a little bit of aquarium water to the bag over a period of time before releasing the fish into the tank.

Sudden bright lights can stress your fish, so it’s also a good idea to leave the tank lights switched off during acclimation to help reduce stress on the fish.

Watch Out for Signs of Stress!

Throughout the acclimation process, watch your fish closely for changes in behavior that could indicate stress. Signs of stress include rapid breathing, erratic swimming, or loss of coloration. If any signs are observed, slow down the acclimation process.

Dechlorinate Tap Water

Tap water contains chlorine or chloramine, chemicals that are extremely dangerous to fish and other livestock. Exposing your pets to untreated tap water could kill them. Sometimes, tap water also includes heavy metals, which are also dangerous to fish.

So, always use a good-quality water dechlorinator to neutralize these chemicals before adding tap water to your aquarium.

Buffer pH

If your tap water has a significantly different pH to that of your aquarium, you might want to consider using a pH buffer to gradually adjust the pH of the replacement water to match that of the tank.

Stress Coat Additives

Many water conditioners include stress-reducing ingredients like aloe vera or vitamin E, which can also promote the healing of damaged tissue. If you’re concerned that your fish get stressed during water changes, adding one of these conditioners can help.

Final Thoughts

Although water changes are essential to maintain a healthy, safe aquarium environment for your fish and other aquatic pets, the disturbance to the habit during vacuuming can be stressful for them. In addition, water parameters can change, and temperature fluctuations can sometimes occur, both of which will stress your fish.

You can prevent fish stress by using gradual acclimation techniques, always dechlorinating tap water before adding it to the aquarium and adding a water conditioner with a stress coat.

The post Is Your Fish Stressed During Water Changes? Try This. appeared first on Aquariadise.

But what’s that horrendous smell coming from your fish tank?

That can’t be happening! You maintain your tank correctly, and it’s full of fresh plants that are supposed to help purify the water. So, why does it stink so bad?

If your aquarium smells bad, that means there’s a serious problem somewhere that needs your immediate attention. Keep reading to find out why your fish tank is still malodorous even after you cleaned it, and learn what you can do to fix the pong.

Key Takeaways

• Unpleasant odors in an aquarium can be caused by dead fish hidden in the tank, surplus food decomposing on the substrate, or a decline in plant health.
• Overstocking an aquarium leads to excessive waste that overburdens the filtration system, contributing to the development of foul odors.
• To ensure an odor-free aquarium, perform regular water changes, maintain a proper feeding regimen, and provide attentive care to both the filter system and live aquarium plants.

Summary Table

The following table summarizes what we’ve revealed in this article. Before diving into the main event, check out this table to find out what could be causing bad smells from your fish tank even after cleaning it and how to fix the problem.

Remember that a stinky fish tank is usually a sign that something is wrong. Addressing the issue promptly and effectively eradicates the odor and ensures a healthy and thriving environment for your aquatic pets.

Common Causes of Fish Tank Odors

In a well-maintained fish tank, you might notice a slight, earthy aroma when you lift the lid to feed your fish. That’s perfectly normal and not a cause for concern.

However, if your fish tank develops an overpowering odor, you need to investigate, discover the cause, and fix it.

Here are some of the most common causes of stinky fish tanks.

Dead Critters

The most common cause of a seriously malodorous fish tank is a dead fish or some other critter that’s died.

Unfortunately, it can be quite a while before you notice one of your fish, shrimp, or snails has gone missing.

I can tell you from personal experience that small fish and tiny shrimp are very accomplished at hiding away, sneaking into tiny spaces, and remaining there hidden. If the critter then dies, you might not even realize something’s wrong until you notice the smell. I’ve also found a tiny dead shrimp stuck in my filter unit; now, that really did stink!

When any creature passes away, its body immediately begins to decompose, leeching oils and proteins into the water. Those substances find their way to the water’s surface and evaporate as gas, which is what causes the smell. The smell should quickly disappear once you’ve located the deceased fish and removed it from the tank.

Once you’ve removed the dead creature from your aquarium, I recommend a partial water change to freshen the water and make the environment safe for your fish.

All Present and Correct!

Try to make it a habit to carry out a daily livestock headcount. That can tell you immediately if anyone is missing before the dead body starts rotting in the tank and polluting the water.

Of course, that’s not easy if you have a large tank with lots of small fish and invertebrates living in it, but it’s well worth the time and effort.

Overfeeding

Overfeeding is another common reason for a foul-smelling fish tank, as well as being a waste of cash! When uneaten food drifts down to the substrate, it begins decomposing, encouraging bacterial colonies to grow there. As those bacteria proliferate, they release waste gasses that permeate the aquarium with a foul stench.

Most fish species only need a small amount of food every day. Omnivorous and herbivorous varieties also tend to graze on algae, helping to keep the environment tidy and supplementing their diet at the same time.

Feeding Regime

Ideally, you should feed your fish only twice daily, offering them just what they will clear up in a few minutes. Uneaten food should be removed from the tank as soon as feasibly possible with an aquarium vacuum cleaner.

It’s also a good idea to include one day per week when you don’t feed your fish anything. A fasting day allows any food that’s still in the fish’s gut to pass through before adding more to the load. That can prevent nasty health conditions like constipation, bloating, and swim bladder disorder.

Too Much of a Mouthful!

Problems can also happen if you feed your fish pellets or flakes that are too large for them to eat properly. If the food can’t make it from the fish’s mouth into its digestive tract, the fish won’t get the nutrition it needs and likely won’t thrive. Also, flakes and pellets that are too big usually get blown out of the fish’s gills, falling onto the substrate where they decay.

So, always choose food of an appropriate size for your livestock. You might need to crumble the food into fine powder to feed very small fish, like rasboras and tetras, or fish fry.

Overstocking your Tank

The water in your fish tank will smell bad if it’s full of fish waste, too much for your filtration system to cope with. Overstocking usually causes this.

Overstocking means you have too many fish living in a tank that doesn’t provide enough water volume. Basically, the more fish you have, the more poop they produce. Eventually, there’s too much waste for the filters and beneficial bacteria colonies to cope with.

When that happens, the water gets polluted and starts to smell horrible.

How Many Fish?

Many newbies to the hobby make the mistake of buying a bunch of fish without researching their new pets’ expected adult size. The fish keep on growing until there’s not enough room in the aquarium, and you discover you’re overstocked.

Most fish sold in fish stores or online are juveniles with lots of growing still to do, so be sure to find out how big the fish will be as adults before you take them home.

So, how much space do fish need to be happy and thrive?

As a general rule of thumb, you should allow one gallon of water per inch of fish length. However, that’s a basic guide that shouldn’t be considered set in stone. In truth, the size of the aquarium you need depends on the fish species and its usual behavior. Schooling or shoaling fish need plenty of open water swimming space to patrol; territorial types might require less swimming space, but they still need a sizeable patch to claim as theirs, while solitary fish don’t appreciate being crowded.

As well as an unpleasant smell and bad water conditions, overcrowding causes stress to the fish. Stress is a potentially serious issue in a fish tank, weakening the fish’s immune system and leaving it open to bacterial diseases and parasites.

Decomposing Plant Matter

Although live plants are an excellent addition to any freshwater fish tank, they can sometimes die off and produce a terrible stench when decomposing.

Fortunately, unlike a hidden deceased fish, dead plants are easy to spot. When the foliage turns brown, black, and slimy, it’s a pretty safe bet that the plant is dead or dying. At that stage, I recommend removing the plant from your tank before it starts to rot and stink.

Regular Plant Maintenance

Even healthy plants lose their leaves from time to time as a natural process. And if you have fish that enjoy uprooting stems and tugging on leaves, damage to the plant can easily result. Dead leaves and broken stems will decay, polluting the water and creating an unpleasant odor.

Different plant species grow at different rates, but all need regular trimming and thinning to keep them healthy and in good condition. Once a week or so, inspect the plants and snip off damaged or dead leaves and broken stems with a set of aquascaping scissors. Remove fallen leaves from the substrate as soon as you spot them.

Dirty Filters

A very common cause of a smelly fish tank is poor water quality, which usually results because the filter system isn’t properly maintained.

Every fish tank needs an efficient filter system to remove waste particles from the water, process organic waste, and neutralize heavy metals.

• The mechanical filter element of the filter system captures particles of solid waste, helping to keep the water clear.
• The biological filter media provides a home for beneficial bacteria to proliferate. The bacteria feed on ammonia, turning it into nitrites and then into less harmful nitrates.
• A chemical filter removes or neutralizes heavy metals, chemical toxins, and fish medications from the water. Chemical filters are not found in every system, but I think they are a nice-to-have option, especially in areas where tap water is known to contain dangerous heavy metals like lead, cadmium, and zinc.

To keep the filter in good condition and working well, you must remove the media every couple of weeks and rinse it in tank water to remove sludge that could clog the impeller and prevent it from spinning properly. You’ll also need to replace the media periodically in line with the filter manufacturer’s guidelines.

Including activated carbon in your filter media to remove odor-causing ions (molecules). However, note that the carbon does expire eventually and must be replaced a few times annually to remain effective.

You must perform a partial water change every week or so, removing 20% to 30% of the tank water and replacing it with dechlorinated tap water. You’ll also need to remove algae from the tank glass, tidy your aquatic plants, and thoroughly vacuum the substrate to remove accumulations of organic water.

How To Prevent Your Aquarium From Smelling Bad

Once your aquarium is clean and sweet-smelling again, you want to keep it that way. Here are some tips on how to do that!

• Check your fish every day. If any have gone AWOL, look thoroughly in the nooks and crannies of your tank in case a dead fish is causing the smell. Once you find your dearly departed pet, remove it immediately and carry out a partial water change.
• Maintain your fish tank filtration system properly, as described above.
• Carry out partial water changes every week or so to prevent bio-waste from accumulating in the water and causing a stink.
• Don’t overfeed your fish! Feed them once or twice daily, and include one fasting day per week.
• Avoid overstocking your tank by researching the adult size of all fish before you buy them.
• Consider adding activated carbon to your filtration system to remove odor-causing ions.
• Maintain your living aquarium plants correctly by trimming away dead plants and broken stems. Remove fallen leaves from the tank before they start decomposing.

Final Thoughts

Your fish tank might still smell bad after maintenance if a dead critter lurks in there somewhere. Stinky aquariums can also be caused by poor tank maintenance, dead plant matter, and accumulations of uneaten food and fish waste.

You can prevent your tank from getting stinky by cleaning your filters regularly, not overcrowding the tank, feeding your fish correctly, and caring for your plants properly.

Follow our top tips to banish nasty niffs from your tank permanently!

The post Aquarium Still Smelling Bad After Maintenance? Try This. appeared first on Aquariadise.