Automedia.com - Restoration

Sandpaper Tech

If you think the sandpaper on your garage shelf looks dated, consider the origins of sandpaper way back in at least the 13th century, when it is believed to have been invented by the Chinese. Sandpaper was created to rework and improve irregular surfaces, but it has done so much more. Sandpaper has taken on many forms over the past one thousand years, based on availability of raw materials, and how advanced a given society has been.

Thread Repair 101

If you've been working on automobiles for any time at all, you've probably experienced the letdown of stripped and damaged threads. Go to tighten a bolt and there's the sinking feeling of a bolt that won't twist. It pops and just keeps going round and round. Although thread repair or replacement is intimidating for the novice, it doesn't have to be. Be it iron or aluminum, you have choices on how to repair or restore damaged threads in your home garage without having to resort to a machine shop.

Headliner Replacement

Interior car repair may not sound like a walk in the park, but replacing a warped, deteriorating headliner is close. Replacing the headliner in your vehicle is far simpler than you think, and you can do it yourself at home. If you're tired of your original headliner disintegrating into your hair or you're too embarrassed to give people rides in your rig, follow along to see how to save money on do-it-yourself installation and have the satisfaction of accomplishing the task on your own.

Retro Tachometer Upgrade

Most cars from the late '50s through to the end of the 1960s, including a large number of musclecars, were never fitted with factory tachometers. For many enthusiasts, that was actually good news. It meant folks could bolt on a high-quality (accurate) tachometer to the top of the dash or clamp one onto the steering wheel. Back then, it was almost impossible to find a hot car without a tach. To have any street credibility at all, you had have a Sun Tach. Sure there were a few pretenders, but tachometers from Sun ruled the roost. Now, what's old is new for a retro tachometer upgrade.

Auto Interior Vinyl and Leather Repair

Taking one look at the cracked and splitting car seat, we figured the upholstery was beyond repair. That probably meant an expensive re-covering job, which didn't seem likely, given the age and value of the vehicle. Then we heard about Fibrenew, specialists in auto interior vinyl and leather repair, which claimed to live up to the "renew" embedded in the company name.

Vintage Auto Glass Codes

It should be no secret to anyone reading this article that it's possible to nail down the casting numbers and date code sequences on just about everything found on a vintage car, GM-built or otherwise. Included in the mix are cylinder blocks, heads, starters, water pumps, alternators, intake manifolds, rear axle housings, transmission cases, and so forth. The sky is pretty much the limit once you really start to dig. You can even nail down date codes on interior trim panels (not that anyone would see them), jacks, and even tires. Vintage auto glass codes are no exception. "Numbers matching" also applies to factory-installed window glass.

If you examine a piece of unmolested, genuine (old) Chevy auto glass carefully, you'll find a set of white characters printed on the glass. These characters are, in most cases, printed to read from the inside out, so they'll read backwards from the outside of the vehicle. Typically, they're found near an edge of the glass. A good example is the quarter glass: It has the characters near the lower corner close to the vertical weather-strip. The rear glass code is the exception: It will often be in the lower center of the back window. Corvettes are another exception; they do not have the characters presented as a mirror image (you can read them from the outside), but they're beyond the scope of this article.

Transmission Swap: Replacing an Automatic Trans with a Manual

We don't know about you, but driving a car with three pedals on the floor and rowing your own gears just makes for a more connected driving experience, particularly in the case of a car that you drive for fun. Executing the daily grind in bumper-to-bumper traffic with an automatic is a whole bunch easier and makes more sense, but we're talking about a car you drive for enjoyment, like a vintage car that sees weekend use. Trouble is, even 40 or more years ago a four-on-the-floor car wasn't exactly common, although a three-on-the-tree setup was.

What should you do when you're stuck with an automatic transmission on your vintage musclecar and you really want a manual? Simple. Make the swap. The big pieces are often the pedals, linkage and transmission mounts. Using a vintage, first-generation (1967-1969) Camaro and third-generation (1968-74) Nova as examples, here's how it's done:

Seat Belt Restoration

Seat belts in vintage cars usually live a tough life. Buckles become scratched and dinged. Labels yellow. And, to make matters worse, plenty of old cars happened to be new cars when social habits such as smoking were extremely common. The smoke permeates the belts and, in particular, the shoulder harness assemblies. Before long, the belts and harness begin to look like refugees from a wrecking yard. Seat belt restoration in a vintage or classic car is a necessary part of interior restoration.

While seat upholstery gets cleaned, vinyl dashes and door panels get scrubbed, and carpets get shampooed, most folks forget about (or ignore) the lowly seat belt and shoulder harness. That's the bad news. The good news is, with a small amount of elbow grease and a few common cleaners, you can make the seat belt and shoulder harness assembly's gleam like new (or even better than new).

Elvira's Spooky '58 Thunderbird

For those who aren't familiar with this "Mistress of the Dark," where have you been? Locked in a casket? After all, her Goth, sex-kitten character has not only appeared on the TV series Movie Macabre and numerous cult hit-movies, but also on every imaginable type of merchandise.

"Brand New" Old Corvette

The late 1970s was the end of an era for Corvettes. Since computers were no longer the size of a refrigerator, with reels of tape spinning to and fro, they began to appear on everything from TV sets to toasters—and automobiles as well. Carburetors? They would be going the way of the dodo bird.

Classic Car Paperwork

A gleaming paint job and an immaculate engine bay are typical hallmarks of a valuable collector car. But there's another, less obvious aspect that separates the ordinary from the extraordinary, be it a barn-find or a show queen. It all boils down to one word: authenticity. Even the most seasoned automotive experts have to do some serious digging to determine the historical reality of certain cars.

It looks nice but what’s it worth? What follows are some general tips and unusual twists and turns gleaned from several automotive experts. We won’t dwell on the intricacies of various VIN tags, since entire publications have been devoted to that subject, usually called “white books.” Instead, we’ll start with the basics of the paperwork, the contents of “full deal jackets,” and how these can dramatically affect the perceived value of a classic vehicle.

Cooling Fan Upgrade

As long as the vehicle remains unmodified or doesn't handle heavy loads, a factory cooling system normally does a pretty good job maintaining the right engine temperature. Add some performance upgrades or use it in heavy-duty applications, however, and the stock setup could easily get overloaded and it becomes time to consider a cooling fan upgrade. As proof, Heath Langenfeld of SPAL USA, an electric fan manufacturer, says that solving the problem of an overheated hot rod is one of the company's most common customer inquiries.

Wheel Repair and Restoration

Here’s a familiar scenario: You pull into a parking spot and your wheels do a “curb check.” Or maybe you accidentally drive over a deep pothole. Oops, now there’s a dent in the rim. How can you tell if you need to fix your wheel or go for new one? Is your damaged wheel a candidate for wheel repair?

Wheel Widening

Whether you’re restoring an older vehicle, building a hot rod or modifying a muscle car, they usually have one thing in common: skinny tires. Today, we expect more performance from our rides, and need more rubber on the road—especially if you’re running a hopped-up mill or want to roll with a different look. That means your rims need to be wider to carry extra rubber. On certain types of projects, though, you wouldn’t want to tamper with that classic look or junk your favorite rims, so that means keeping the center but inserting it into a bigger hoop. Enter: Wheel widening.

Ford Mustang: 2004-2011

The 2004 Ford Mustang was a momentous model year for Ford, as it marked the 40th anniversary of Mustang production. The original ponycar celebrated its birthday alone, as those former rivals from General Motors, Chrysler and AMC had fallen by the wayside. Unfortunately, however, the 2004 model wasn’t a new model, but a minor upgrade from 2003.

Modernizing an Older Transmission with a Gear Splitter

Anybody who’s ever driven a vintage vehicle has probably experienced the following problem: You’d like to settle into a nice cruise down the highway, but the low rear-end ratio, while ensuring a quicker launch off the line, keeps that big V-8 buzzing, even in top gear. At first the exhaust note sounds kind of cool, but after a while the drone can drive you batty (not to mention run up your gas bill). The answer is to install a gear splitter.

Ride of the Phaeton

A common joke among hot rodders is that there are at least 10 times as many ’32 Fords on the road today than there were when the car was new. Actually, there are probably way more than that number, if you’ve ever been to a street rod show and seen all the companies making fiberglass reproductions.

Buy Low, Ride High

You can’t schedule, or predict, an epiphany—they just happen. Such as the moment you first realized that girls (or guys) might actually like you. When you suddenly understood calculus. Or—as occurred to me at the Mecum Auction in Monterey, California—you realize the fantasy car you’ve secretly lusted after just might be within reach.

Leaf Spring Resto

Everything tends to get saggy with old age, some things need repairs while others need replacement. Leaf springs, fortunately, can be repaired rather than replaced. This common type of suspension is commonly seen under various types of vehicles with straight- or live-axle rear ends. For this particular restoration, we'll focus on an older Jeep Grand Wagoneer.

Resin Redo

Car collectors usually strive to preserve the originality and authenticity of a classic Corvette, but in some cases it’s fitting to make it better than new. That’s the case of David Davies’ 1978 Stingray, which can be characterized as a “restomod” since he improved on the original in a number of areas.

Bolt Torque

Torque specifications frequent shop manuals. That’s a given. Today, you’ll sometimes find stretch measurements for certain fasteners along with torque angle figures but, generally speaking, “bolt torque” is still king. In many cases, the use of a torque wrench is the only way possible to measure the tension that is brought to bear on a fastener.

Child Seat Cleat Install

We’re not sure why—perhaps it was a difference between design year for the vehicle and implementation year for the law—but the ’98 Toyota Rav4 didn’t come equipped with the rear safety cleat necessary to properly install a child seat in its back seat. Hmmm.

Welding Practice

The wire-feed welders that have started to pop up in the aisle at your local auto parts store or tool house can be an affordable setup for the do-it-yourselfer. Falling prices make picking up a portable or compact welder an even more tempting choice. Before starting to daydream about building a land speed record motorcycle or racecar chassis in the garage, realize that these wire-feed welders have their limitations. Welding of any kind also requires a great deal of attention to safety.

"Time Machine" Hemi Dart

Longtime fans of musclecars fondly recall the heyday of Mr. Norm, the "King of Hi Performance." Norm Kraus, along with his brother and father, started Grand Spaulding Dodge in 1963 at the corner of Grand and Spaulding in the heart of Chicago. After years of specializing in selling used performance cars at this location, Norm believed that selling new performance cars could be the foundation for a successful dealership. Industry naysayers said that a new car dealership using this business model would never succeed.

How to Remove Door Panels

Article updated October 2011

That's right. Removing interior door panels in your auto can be quick and easy, as long as you use the right trim-removal too. Brute force or even conventional garage tools may get you the kind of snap you don't want: a snapped inner door panel.

Why bother with this type of interior restoration project? There are a great number of reasons to remove an interior door panel in a car or truck. At the core of the problem is something behind the panel either broken or in need of an upgrade. Electric window motors sometimes go capoot. Window registers can skip off their tracks. Weather strips can stop fighting the elements. Factory door mount audio speakers can sound better with an upgrade. A ding or dent may require convincing via its backside. The list of reasons can go on and on, but the task at hand is always the same: Remove the door panel to access and repair the problem.

4-Speed Shifter Tech Tips

The name Hurst will forever be linked to the 4-speed transmission. Though in production prior to the 1964 introduction of the GTO, the coupling of the two validated the performance of one another. Today, the 4-speed transmission and Hurst shifter continue to dominate the drivetrains of musclecars.

Shift Enhancements for Your Automatic

The term "slushbox" was coined to describe the less-than-optimum shift characteristics of factory automatic transmission. All major manufacturers between the '50s and '70s offered mushy-shifting two- and three-speed automatics. To increase performance for non-standard uses such as towing or racing, automatics often received internal adjustments, machining and other refinements.

Anatomy of the Musclecar

Editor's Note: Co-creator of the Pontiac GTO and several other Pontiac specialty cars, Jim Wangers, also known as the "Godfather of the GTO," helped establish the "musclecar" of the Sixties to its rightful niche in the history of American car marketing. As Pontiac's marketing man, Wangers was there, helping to steer Pontiac down the road of success during American musclecar glory days of the '60s and '70s.

Mustang Chassis Upgrade

Owners of late-'60s and early-'70s Mustangs know all too well both the bright spots and blemishes of these highly popular sports cars. They're strong on styling, speed and affordability. However, their suspension, steering and braking weren't particularly noteworthy. Engineering has come a long way in the last few decades, and the automotive aftermarket has developed a wide range of upgrades and retrofits for the Mustang's antiquated chassis design. If you own or are thinking of buying a vintage Mustang (or other related Ford models such as the Cougar, Comet, Fairlane, Falcon, Maverick, and so forth), here's a brief rundown of suspension changes you can make to modernize your pony car. Many of these are from Total Control Products, a company that built the stunt cars for the movie "Gone in 60 Seconds" (particularly Eleanor, the flying Shelby GT500).

Roll Bar Basics

Turning a sports car on its lid is not something any enthusiast expects to happen, but you should be prepared for the worst. Damaging your ego or your pride-and-joy is one thing, but more serious is the potential for personal injury. Adding to the danger is the fact that many sports cars are stuck with 1960s technology when it comes to safety considerations. Modern production cars have crumple zones, airbags, rollover protection and built-in side beams to prevent intrusion.

Total Package GT 350 Set to Kill

The 1965 Shelby GT 350 was a trick ride right out of the box. You've read about them, seen them, heard the rollicking idle sing from the pipes like so much adolescent thunder. Lots of GT 350s were raced (that's what they were built for) and though some remain stock to this day, a bunch were (and remain) built to suit, built to please or built to the hilt. Frank Stagnaro's in particular is all three.

Dash Pad Restoration

Most people are familiar with the cracked-dash crisis caused by an older-generation formulation of a popular car-care product. People who prided themselves in their vehicles' appearances were disappointed to discover that this leather-vinyl-rubber spray didn't allow the vinyl to "breathe," and temperature fluctuations caused dash skins treated with this product to crack.

Classic Car Clock Update

Time. It seems lately that's all anyone ever talks about. The world is moving at triple-digit pace and everything is light years faster than it was even last week. And because time is such a precious commodity, every car should have a properly functioning quartz clock. Older collector cars can particularly benefit from a quartz-clock update to replace those whose small second-hands quit working within minutes of when the car was driven off the dealer's lot. Many vehicles' clocks probably haven't indicated the correct time for years. The fix is simple. Requiring no special tools, the repairs can be done in an afternoon; although, we recommend allowing a full day in order to clean behind the dash area and to spiff up the instrument cluster.

Classic Car Clock Update

Professional Restoration Tips

Executing a complete restoration of a classic car involves several major stages. Most of these—paint and bodywork, major mechanical and the like—can be left to the professionals, but with simple handtools and a weekend afternoon, you can accomplish a lot on your own. The restoration parts aftermarket can supply almost any part for most popular makes, models and years of classic cars. Your best bet is to start with a catalog of parts devoted to your particular car or truck. Most of the items shown here pertain to 1964-72 GM A-bodies: GTOs, Chevelles, 442 Cutlasses and Buick GSs. We'll pass along some tips and products that will make your car a detailed showpiece and save you a few bucks in the process. Plus, you'll enjoy the satisfaction of restoring it yourself.

Car Paint Preparation

Whether amateur or pro, few collector-car restorers paint their own vehicles. Paint is so important to the overall visual impact of the car that it's usually better left to the pros. Here we'll show you the proper way to prepare a collector car for a show-quality paint job, detailing the materials used and providing some hints on how the pros do such a good job.

Paint Secrets

Doing your own pre-paint body prep is a big job, but that effort pales in comparison to what you'll go through if you have problems with the shop that sprays your final color. In the "Paint Prep" article on this channel, we started from scratch prepping a 1970 GTO convertible for a complete repaint. Correct surface preparation and the use of quality materials are key to arriving at a stunning finished product. The boulevard bomber was taken down to its bare metal, its slight body damage was repaired and the whole car was brought to the final stages of sanding and primer. We did everything just prior to spraying the color. Shown here are steps on how to find a good body shop, the application of paint, sanding and polishing and some after-paint care. Best of all, a professional body man provides some excellent suggestions about what you can do yourself and what yout you should leave to the pros.

Re-Carpeting Classics

Carpet is literally at the bottom of the resto-priorities list, probably because it involves the most un-doing. The optimal time to re-carpet is in conjunction with re-upholstering the seats and/or re-covering the rear quarter panels because these components must be removed anyway. However, no single interior revival pays off with such immediate gratification.

Trunk Weather Sealing

Have you ever opened your trunk and smelled a musty odor? Does the stench remain even after that gym bag is removed? Lifting up the carpet or mat might reveal mildewed carpet and rusted sheetmetal. There may even be small holes in the trunk floor.

Top 10 Collector Car Buying Tips

Buying a collector/hobby vehicle should be an exciting, fun thing to do. But—without the proper considerations—the results can be frustrating and financially disastrous. Always try to consider all the options available to you when planning a purchase. Here are some critical points to consider before you close any deal.

Rust Prevention

Just as Lex Luthor was Superman's archrival, rust is the main thorn-in-the-side to anyone who owns an older vehicle. As Neil Young reminded us, once rust starts, it never sleeps.

How To Install Urethane Swaybar Bushings

Restification and Restomod are a couple of popular terms flying around the restoration industry for the past couple of years. These custom word contractions come from melding the terms restoration and modification together. And while they seem to be oxymorons in terms of language, in practice they fit together quite well.

How To Install Urethane Swaybar Bushings

Saving Seatbelts

For many collectible vehicles, the restoration aftermarket offers almost every imaginable soft part to make interiors look factory-new. Carpet kits, OE-fabric upholstery and various interior panels abound. But after a complete interior resto, one particular loose end can be a glaring eyesore: dirty seatbelts.

Wheel Restoration

Clean wheels are one detail that separates the real automotive enthusiasts from the wannabe crowd. When restoring an older muscle car, the factory-correct stylized steel wheels can be brought back to a concours showroom condition in an afternoon with little more invested than some elbow grease and a few rattle-cans of spray paint.

Confirming a Matching Numbers Vehicle

For the purist musclecar collector or restorer, having a "matching numbers" vehicle is extremely important. A musclecar that still has all its original parts is more valuable than one that has been restored with reproduction parts. Originality is considered the basis for value, particularly when it comes to low production number vehicles such as the 1969 Trans Am or 1970 Buick GSX, both of which had less than 700 total units manufactured.

1955-57 Chrysler C300, 300B and 300C

Ten years before Pontiac started the musclecar fad, Chrysler's first 300 (named for its powerful, 331-cid, dual quad-equipped Hemi that developed 300-bhp, a first in an American production car) was built to battle the new Corvette and Thunderbird. Often incorrectly called the 300A, the '55 C300 preceded a long line of letter cars, hence the confusion. Purists feel the first three years were the best and so do I.

Converting to Electronic Ignition

Restoring, driving and maintaining older vehicles can be a lot of fun. Every car enthusiast has a favorite make or model that they would like to drive and restore, or possibly modify to personalize it. We're not talking about expensive classics—just special-interest vehicles. This current trend is being called "Restification" or "Restomod," and one of the most popular modifications is to convert the antiquated breaker-point distributor to a solid-state electronically triggered distributor. This easy conversion provides a solid boost in performance, eliminates breaker-point maintenance and greatly improves spark plug life while maintaining a stock appearance.

Converting to Electronic Ignition

Exhaust Manifold Restoration

For years restorers were at a loss about what to do with cast-iron exhaust manifolds. A few restorers of large, expensive classic cars would send their manifolds out to be coated with porcelain. Although they looked great all smooth and glossy, the porcelain was prone to chipping and, frankly, didn't look factory correct. Many others took the budget approach and simply painted their manifolds with high-temp spray paint. However, the colors never looked natural and the paint didn't last long before the rust started to show through.

Exhaust Manifold Restoration

Transmission Cooler Line Resto

Automatic transmission cooler lines will probably never make the top of the list when planning a restoration. They're just there—virtually hidden from view—and they don't attract any attention unless they leak. However, there are a couple of scenarios that will focus your attention on finding or making suitable replacements. Scenario #1: You go to remove the radiator and the first thing that happens is you round off the cooler line nuts (even with a line wrench) when you try to loosen them, leaving you with an ugly solution—Vise-Grips. Or, scenario #2: The last hack artist who did an engine rebuild on your car couldn't remember where the cooler lines were routed and just re-bent them to fit into a new location.

U Joints - Installing New Universal Joints

Most rear-wheel-drive cars and trucks will need the universal joints replaced at least once during their service life and possibly more often if it's a high-performance vehicle or equipped with a manual transmission. U-joint life can be extended with periodic maintenance by greasing the zerk fittings (if so equipped), but general abuse such as popping the clutch and full-throttle power shifts will shorten U-joint life considerably.

Relocating a Battery

Think of your battery as a 60-pound lead weight—because that's exactly what it is. In most vehicles, it's mounted far forward and just low enough to clear the hood for easy access and maintenance. Performance enthusiasts and hardcore drag racers discovered that relocating this massive weight to the trunk improved the static weight distribution for better traction. OE auto manufacturers such as BMW place the battery under the rear seat to improve weight distribution and cornering capabilities. The mass of a battery doesn't sound like much compared to the overall 4,000 pounds of vehicle mass, but when you think of that 60 pounds out on the end of a 15-foot lever, its location takes on more significance.

Relocating a Battery

Compression Check-Up

At some point in the restoration process, the engine will come into question—to rebuild or not to rebuild. An engine rebuild is a lot of work, and to do it right costs a lot of money. You certainly don't want to do it if the engine is internally in good condition. That $3,000-$5,000 could go for a new paint job, new chrome or even some rare number-matching parts you may be missing. Answering the usual diagnostic questions such as "How many miles are on it? How much oil does it use? Is it down on power—" will help with the decision, but a simple 30-minute compression test can answer a lot of questions if you know what to look for.

Compression Check-Up

1955-57 Ford Thunderbird

The Ford Thunderbird, named for a Southwestern Indian god of rain and prosperity, was a hit from the outset. Ford dealers received more than 4,000 orders on October 22, 1954, the first official sales day. Designed to resemble—and cast a halo over—Ford's passenger cars, early Birds shared wheel covers, taillights, engines, transmissions and many common interior pieces. The resulting 2-seater was clean, sharply profiled and very appealing. A host of affordable accessories meant 16,155 nicely loaded '55 T-Birds were sold, often for over $4,000. Chevy's planners had really missed the mark with the more Spartan and much slower six-cylinder Corvette. For 1955, they lowered the Corvette's base price and added an optional V-8.

Engine Rebuilding: The Crankshaft

In Engine Rebuilding: The Preparation, we discussed various ways to rebuild your engine and how to find a competent machine shop to help you in the process. Part 2 will deal with the first step in putting it all back together—installing the crankshaft in the cylinder block.

Engine Rebuilding: The Preparation

Rebuilding the engine in your restoration project is a big commitment of time, energy and money. It can also be one of the most satisfying parts of the restoration process. Nothing beats knowing that the engine has been put together right and will be dependable for another 100,000 miles.

Engine Rebuilding: The Preparation

Modern Classic Spotlight: '67-'73 Maserati Ghibli

The toast of the 1966 Turin Show was a low-slung, finely chiseled Maserati coupe by Carrozzeria Ghia. Named, like so many Maseratis, for a swirling desert wind, the stunning Ghibli (pronounced Gi/blee) was the work of young Giorgetto Guigiaro, and it would not be the last of his designs to achieve enduring fame.

Upgrading Torque Converters

If your vehicle is pre-'90s and has an automatic transmission, chances are it could really benefit from a modern performance torque converter. In its quest for more efficiency and performance, the auto industry has put an incredible amount of research and development into torque converters. The result is torque converters that provide much more torque multiplication (more on that later) and higher efficiency. These benefits are available for your older vehicle and will literally transform the way it drives and performs.

Protecting Your Investment

After spending four days driving the California Mille Miglia over some of the most challenging roads in America, it became real apparent that vintage cars are spending less time in the museum and more time on the road. Thank goodness for that! While their grace and beauty can be admired in a museum, nothing matches the dimensional quality of hearing and seeing automotive legends in their true element on the open road. One of the big issues facing a car collector is how to protect his car and investment, especially if it is being driven. While anti-theft devices and on-board fire systems are a good idea, an ironclad insurance policy is the ultimate protection against catastrophic loss.

Blast Cabinet Parts Cleaning

One of the most daunting tasks with any restoration is cleaning parts. Grease, grime, rust and corrosion have taken over your car. Now it's time to reclaim it, making it look showroom fresh again. The best way to do that is by blasting components clean in an abrasive blasting cabinet. There are other options such as chemical dipping and stripping and the old wire wheel and brush method, but nothing seems to prepare a vehicle's various surfaces for refinishing as well as abrasive blasting. And with the price of home workshop blast cabinets and larger compressors becoming more affordable, many restorers either have the equipment or know someone who does.

Blast Cabinet Parts Cleaning

1964 Jaguar XKE

Editor's Note: Ken Gross, a well-known and respected automotive journalist whose expertise extends from new cars to vintage hot rods, may be best known for his knowledge of classic cars. He recently stepped down from running the Petersen Automotive Museum in Los Angeles to pursue his writing, so we asked Ken to select "affordable" classics and tell us a little about them and why we should consider owning one.

Modern Classic: '59 Cadillac Eldorado Biarritz

Editor's Note: Ken Gross is a well known and respected automotive journalist whose expertise extends from new cars to vintage hot rods, although he may be best known for his knowledge of classic cars. We asked Ken to select 10 "affordable" classics and tell us a little about them and why we should consider owning one. This month's selection is the 1959 Cadillac Eldorado Biarritz.

Oil Pump Restoration

Most high-production engine rebuilders simply replace the oil pump when rebuilding an engine. Reason? Oil pumps are relatively inexpensive, and for most popular engines, high-pressure and high-volume pumps are readily available. But for those rebuilding a less popular "fringe" engine, you will have to restore—or more accurately "blueprint"—the existing pump. Although it sounds technical, the actual process is relatively easy and requires only a set of feeler gauges, a flat surface and some sandpaper. Best of all, it should only cost you a couple of bucks for materials.

Modern Classic: '73 Lotus Elan

Editor's Note: Ken Gross is a well-known and respected automotive journalist whose expertise extends from new cars to vintage hot rods. He may be best known for his knowledge of classic cars. We asked Ken to select 10 "affordable" classics and tell us a little about them and why we should consider owning one. This month's selection is the 1973 Lotus Elan.

Modern Classic: '63 Corvette Stingray

Five Pro Restoration Tips

For every problem there is a solution! Some are right and some are wrong, and the wrong ones usually cause havoc. Here are five simple hints on how to save time, money or, in some cases, your original parts. There is a method to restoration madness; hopefully these will keep you off Prozac and assist in accomplishing your resto goals.

Buying a Hobby Car

The First Commandment of becoming a car restorer is deciding what car to restore. You must first love the vehicle or the project will be an exercise in frustration. Most people have a favorite make and model, possibly the first car they ever owned or one they always wanted but couldn't afford at the time. Before you begin your vehicle search, do your homework. Check the availability of reproduction or original parts such as exterior trim, interior seat-cover kits and engine and suspension replacement parts. The Internet is an excellent source for this research. Buying a car you can't find parts for is a major cause of project burnout. Carefully consider the vehicle, whether car or truck, and make sure you really want to emotionally and financially tackle the restoration. If you don't choose wisely and simply buy on a whim, the consequences can be costly.

GM Gas Tank Replacement

Few of us ever dwell on the fuel we use to power our favorite ride. Except for price fluctuations and an occasional gas shortage, we pump and go. After all, the receptacle that holds that precious fluid is out of sight and out of mind. Over time, age, rust, road damage and other hazards can take a severe toll on this all-important part, and a gasoline leak is highly dangerous. At best, a regular inspection of that venerable old tank is a wise idea—don't wait till it's too late. If you smell gas in the garage, always check your tank for leaks!

GM Gas Tank Replacement

Modern Classic: '73-'76 Lamborghini Espada III

Plastic Taillight Lens Repair

Classic and collector-car light lenses are often damaged over the years by rocks or other road debris. Small holes or chips can be easily repaired instead of having to replace the entire lens. In some cases, replacement lenses are non-existent or extremely costly. Most auto parts suppliers carry a variety of kits for repairing plastic lenses at home.

Easy Metal Cleaning

Internal engine parts that are constantly exposed to hot oil develop a burned-on brown patina during years of use. Trying to clean this coating with solvent is useless—the surface remains hard and dirty brown. But, from America's kitchens comes the solution: spray-on oven cleaner. It works great and is available at almost any market in the country.

How to Replace a Control Arm Bushing

Article updated October 2011

If you're having suspension issues with that classic GM car, it may be a worn control arm bushing. Control arm bushing replacement is a job you can do at home by following a few simple steps. First, though, let's cover the basics:

The rear upper and lower control arms on the 1964-72 GM A-body vehicles (Chevelle, GTO, 4-4-2, Buick GS) not only provide suspension travel but also secure the rear end to the vehicle. Each control arm has two pressed-in bushings, one at each end. The bushing is a metal cylinder with a rubber center and a tubular metal core for the mounting bolt to pass through.

How to Replace a Control Arm Bushing

Battery Tray Restoration

Every vehicle has a battery tray of some kind. That heavy power source is usually secured to the tray with bolts, preventing it from shifting or falling over. The inherent problem with these trays is that they rust from water sitting in the bottom or are eaten alive by battery acid. Some trays are so far gone that the only thing holding them in the car is the weight of the battery they are suppose to support.

Battery Tray Restoration

Dash-Knob Detailing

Many restorers concentrate on the large picture, but the smaller items are just as important. Intricately detailed dash knobs were used during the Sixties and Seventies, and they deserve restoration as well. Most were finished in chrome plastic and can be easily saved with a little gentle attention. Nicotine and dirt, accumulated from years of use, settle into the design of the knob, eventually turning your bright chrome to dirty gray.

Plastic Grille Repair

During the late Sixties, most domestic car manufacturers started using ABS plastic for many body parts. There were several reasons for this, the most blatant of which was cost. Why are you not surprised? Reducing vehicle weight was the second major reason, and plastic seemed the logical way to do it.

Modern Classic: '64 Pontiac GTO

Editor's Note: Ken Gross is a well-known and respected automotive journalist whose expertise extends from new cars to vintage hot rods. He may be best known for his knowledge of classic cars and as the former director of the Petersen Automotive Museum in Los Angeles.

Dent Repair

If you drive, your car will eventually get a dent. Body damage is one of the most frustrating parts of motoring, because our eyes always seem to lock onto dents.

1962-'70 Datsun Roadsters

To qualify as "modern classics," we're choosing vehicles that are comparatively affordable now and that we think will increase in value over time. These are cars that many people would love to have: head-turners, trend-setters in their time, cars that people still see that make them smile, cars that were definitive in their own right, stylish and fun to drive. We're focusing on cars that are at least 25 years old so they can be registered and insured cheaply and aren't subject to annual inspections.

Engine Compartment Detailing

Many times during an engine rebuild the attention is only on the motor and not on where it lives. While the powerplant is on the engine stand, you have a golden opportunity to renovate areas you normally don't have access to. Once that chunk of metal is reinstalled, the detailing process is much harder. Here are a few tips on areas to address and how to breathe new life into old parts that make up your GM engine bay.

Reviving Old Paint with Wheel Polish

The car-care industry offers products that are formulated for almost every conceivable cleaning/polishing scenario: Modern waxes contain chemicals that are tailored to the specific paint styles (base/clearcoat, for example), and other compounds are designed for varying automotive surfaces, such as plastics and leather.

Anatomy of a Tri-Power Carb

If four-barrel carbs were good, then six barrels should be better! That was the thinking of automotive performance gurus in the late Fifties and Sixties. Manufacturers such as Pontiac, Chrysler, Chevrolet and Ford put the tri-power option (three two-barrel carbs) on their musclecar order sheets. While each manufacturer had subtle differences in the way the three carbs were activated, in general the process was relatively the same. Here we are using a Pontiac Tri-Power from 1965 and we'll show you the components that make it work. In this case, the only completely functional carburetor is the center unit. The carbs at each end are simply fuel-atomizing funnels to dump gas into the intake on demand. The throttle linkage on the center carb activates the other two. It's important to adjust the linkage so that all three carbs fully open when the pedal is on the metal. Other manufacturers used three completely functioning carbs with vacuum-operated linkage. Regardless of the brand, the end result was usually the same: a loud whoosh, the scream of tires and a big smile on your face.

Modern Classic: 1949-53 MG TD

Correct Date-Coded Plug Wires

You can have an 800-horsepower engine, but without the spark to fire it off, it's just another chunk of inanimate metal. Obviously, plug wires are an integral part of your ignition system but they can vary greatly in how efficiently they work. There are several thicknesses of wire from a measly 6mm all the way up to monster 12mm. But at some point along the way you are simply dealing with overkill.

Radiator Caps Restoration

One of the earliest pioneers of engine cooling was Carl Benz who, in the mid-1880s, devised what is called the Thermo-Siphoning system of cooling. No water pump was used, as the system utilized the principal that hot water, being less dense than cool water, will rise in a non-vented cooling system. This hot water will cool as it rises through the radiator and then gravity-feeds back into the engine. Primitive, but effective, for the low-performance engines of the time.

Manual and Electric Trunk Access

Sometime in the early Sixties a Detroit whiz kid came up with the idea of offering a remote trunk opening gizmo—a device that would allow you to unlatch the trunk without getting out of the car. The implications were enormous, particularly during the days when the box boy at the market would bring the groceries out to your car. Drive up, pop the trunk and you're gone! WOW, what a concept!

Wiring Harness Resto

Most older domestic cars have two wiring harnesses: one for the headlights, taillights, and interior and another for the engine compartment. Over the years the wiring becomes dry and brittle due to extreme temperature changes and old age. Broken or split wires are a fire hazard and should be changed during a restoration, or just as a safety precaution. Several restoration suppliers carry replacement harnesses, and the kits that have correct factory connectors are the easiest to install.

How to Make Trim Pieces

In restoring an older project car, one of the most maddening obstacles is replacing a worn-out piece of body trim. If you try to buy a replacement part, you'll probably find it's been out of production since the days of hand-crank engines, and all the salvage yards are picked clean of any used remnants. Which leaves you with only one option: fabricating it from scratch.

How to Make Trim Pieces

Since the dawn of the automotive age a century ago, gauges have been required to monitor the condition of an auto engine. Even the simplest internal combustion or steam engine needs a watchdog. Mechanical gauges were the first type used, and they were usually driven by the part they were relegated to check. For instance, early speedometers were driven at the hub of a front wheel on some powered buggies. Water temperature or steam pressure was monitored at the radiator with a Manometer (a water thermometer) or a direct-sight steam gauge at the boiler.

How to Make Trim Pieces

Modern Classic: 1976 Porsche 912E

Modern Classic: 1956 Plymouth Fury Special 8

Interior Upholstery Developments

Have you ever checked out your car's reflection in a storefront window as you're driving by? You're probably like most people and like to see how your ride looks on you, like a new suit or a pair of jeans. Taking that car-as-clothing analogy one step further, the interior can reflect your fashion statement as well. There's a whole new range of products to make your upholstery reflect your personal taste so it's more stylish, enjoyable, and captivating. So what are the latest wrinkles in upholstery? Like that famous line from "The Graduate," it can be summed up in one word: "plastics."

Chassis Restoration

For certain rare cars, restoring the components exactly to original is essential to preserving the vehicle's value. For most car enthusiasts, however, modernizing a restoration project makes a lot more sense. Called a resto/mod (which also refers to modifying the car), this approach takes advantage of all the improvements in automotive technology. There's no reason you can't have contemporary performance to go with that nostalgic style. It all depends on your style. Though not everybody may want this level of performance, the '62 Corvette shown here is a good example of just how far you can take the process.

Chassis Restoration

Chrome Job

No resto project is complete without a really righteous chrome job. When done right, it turns a dingy classic into a gleaming triumph. If you hit it wrong, though, the effect can be like a glamorous model with a big zit.

Drum Brake Restoration

Many restorers can only dream of taking their vehicle off the road to do a total ground-up restoration. For most it's too large a commitment of money, time and, quite frankly, the garage space to do it. A good alternative is to restore while you drive. The advantages are obvious—your favorite vehicle isn't off the road for years at a time and the drain on the family budget is more gradual. The key to being successful with the restore-as-you-drive-approach is to concentrate on one area of the vehicle at a time, prioritize the mechanical aspects to make it a safe and dependable driver first, then concentrate on the cosmetics later. Our '69 Buick GS 400 is a perfect example. It badly needed new universal joints so we removed the driveshaft, fully cleaned and painted it, installed new U-joints and put it back in the car. A couple of paychecks later we removed the trailing arms, cleaned and painted them, installed new bushings and hung them on a totally "ugly" rear end housing. In this installment we will clean, detail and rebuild the rear drum brakes, which leaves only the axle tubes and differential housing to clean and paint. By then, the entire rear end and driveshaft assembly will be restored and the car will have been off the road only one day at a time.

Filler Finder

It's been said that rust never sleeps—unless it's completely removed—rust will continue to eat up good sheetmetal until it's no longer salvageable. Not surprisingly, some repair facilities fix rusted-out areas by simply patching the spot with body filler and paint. The same holds true for damage resulting from a collision. It's a lot quicker to use filler than to take the time to pull the panel and handwork the metal.

Filler Finder

Modern Classic: Volvo PV544

Armrest Restoration

Someone came up with the process around the late '50s of applying chrome-like plating to plastic parts. (Most likely it was a vendor manufacturing parts for the Big Three car manufacturers.) The use of plastic over metal was increasing in various vehicles at this time, and chrome plating was a way to make simple parts look good at a reasonable cost. The use of plastic also removed weight from already very heavy vehicles.

Exhaust Hanger Replacement

Most General Motors musclecar exhaust systems are secured to the underside of the vehicle with exhaust hangers. These metal brackets are attached to pieces of rubber, which flex and allow the pipe to move. Like all rubber items, smog, heat, cold, salt and constant movement wear these parts at an alarming rate. With GM's "over the rear axle" exhaust-tubing design, a loose exhaust pipe can contact several undercarriage spots, resulting in an annoying rattle or occasional bang (as experienced after driving over a serious pothole).

Exhaust Hanger Replacement

GM Window Glass Decoding

Keeping a collector car as original as possible is very important to many enthusiasts. They search for the correct date-coded parts with the correct casting codes, etc. For the extreme stickler for originality, even the manufacturer's codes on the window glass are important. The codes should match the build date of the vehicle and are as important as any other correct part. But how can you tell if your codes are correct? It's easy—and we'll show you how with this batch of codes from 1963 through 1972. We are using both 1965 and 1969 GM intermediate musclecars as examples.

Courtesy-Lamp Lens Replacement

In the Fifties and Sixties, GM installed small opaque-white plastic lenses in convertible rear-armrest courtesy lights. These lenses have a tendency to yellow from heat and age, and many times crack as well. Years of internal heat trapped behind the lens causes the plastic to dry out and become brittle, and even the slightest tap from a person entering or exiting the back seat will crack a lens in this condition.

Courtesy-Lamp Lens Replacement

Modern Classic: 1969 Triumph TR6

Replacing Coilover Springs

Article update October 2011

Upgrading your car's suspension can give it a whole new life. And replacing coilover springs is a good place to start, to restore the vehicle to its original height and improve its ride. After all, absorbing road impact and supporting the weight of the car is a big job. Normal wear and tear fatigues suspension components, making your car droop, resulting in reduced ride quality and handling issues.

Modern Classic: 1956 DeSoto Adventurer

To qualify as a "modern classic," we've chosen vehicles that are comparatively affordable now that we think will increase in value over time. These are cars many people would love to have—head-turners, trend-setters in their time—cars that people still see that make them smile, cars that were definitive in their own right, stylish and fun to drive. We're focusing on cars that are at least 25 years old so they can be registered and insured cheaply and aren't subject to annual inspections.

Swapping Rear-End Gears

In early September 1964, a southern Californian who loved the styling of the new 1965 GTO checked all the right boxes on the dealer order form except one: the rear gearing. This musclecar was delivered with a 3.23:1 non-positraction rear end, and it stayed that way until a recent horsepower upgrade and transmission rebuild demanded more low-end performance. The decision was made to yank the one-legger and install 3.55:1 gears and a posi.

Polishing Stainless Steel Trim

Changing Your Speedo Gear

Improving the overall performance of your favorite ride by changing rear-end gears is common, but it's not the only gear change required. Inside the tail housing of your manual or automatic transmission is another gear, which controls your speedometer and odometer. When you change the rear-end ratio, it throws off the gear in the transmission, so the speedo will read faster or slower until you get the correct trans gear. The various transmission gears are usually plastic and are color-coded to the ratio they correspond to. There is a great physical difference, as show here, comparing the early Super Turbine 300 Powerglide gear with a Muncie four-speed gear. Both are for 3.55:1 rear-end ratios; the four speed's is maroon and the Powerglide's is tobacco brown in color, but the shape change is dramatic.

Air Cleaner Restoration

We've been restoring a '69 Buick GS 400 convertible piece-by-piece while we continue to drive and enjoy the car. Whether you are doing a full frame-off or attacking your resto one piece at a time, you need to have a plan to be successful and to make the best use of your time. First, assess the condition of the part or parts assembly you are about to restore. Ask yourself the following questions: Is this piece salvageable? Do I have the resources to do the restoration? Would I be better off finding a replacement or even a reproduction? If you decide to restore the piece you have, then you need to organize the process: what parts you need to order, what materials you need to purchase, and what steps are required to get from start to the finish.

Modern Classic: 1955-63 Mercedes-Benz 190SL

GM Rear-End Rigidity

From 1964-67, GM offered a rear suspension-bracket package (#9777613) for their A-body muscle cars. This kit was specifically designed for cars equipped with the four-speed transmission option, but it will normally fit any of these model years with manual or automatic trans. The rear suspension consists of upper and lower control arms attached to the axle and utilizing coil springs. These brackets were designed to add extra rigidity and improve the load distribution in the frame rear crossmember and lower control-arm area. Obviously the design wizards at GM realized that some of these cars would experience hard acceleration on a regular basis, so these brackets (Part No. 3869875 for the left side and 3869876 for the right side) were made available over the counter for non-four-speed cars. The parts are relatively easy to install, and doing the job on a lift makes it much easier. Normal hand tools are required, and the upgrade shouldn't take more than a couple of hours.

Hot Rod Restoration Projects

Hot rodding may have started out as a Southern California fad, but it's now an international export. What was once perceived as an outlaw vice is now, more or less, socially acceptable—a mainstream lifestyle and big-buck business (more than $630 million in retail sales per year, according to some estimates). What once ran on the sun-baked alkaline clay of California's dry lakes is now found posing on the green, manicured lawn of the swanky Pebble Beach Concours. Owners of high-dollar hot rods who used to crack a six-pack in the garage now sip wine over their cars at museum openings. How is it that Southern California spawned so many hot rods? And more important, what sort of car should you consider for your resto rod project?

Speedometer Cable Replacement

If your speedometer has been acting weird—the needle jerking wildly or not moving at all—chances are that its cable is bad. Like most other automobile parts, speedo cables eventually wear out and need to be replaced. Throughout the Fifties, Sixties and Seventies, many vehicles came with completely mechanical cables that run from the speedometer in the dash directly to the transmission. The smaller end of the cable attaches to the back of the speedometer, and the larger fitting screws onto a housing on the transmission or transfer case.

Bench Bleeding

Fresh air is normally a good thing, except when it's in your brake lines. Just a bit of the air that keeps us alive can cause a loss of pedal pressure when it travels through your brake hydraulic system resulting in brake failure. Anytime the system is opened, the potential for air to enter is present. Allowing the brake fluid level in the master cylinder to drop, exposing the orifices in the bottom of the reservoir(s) to the air, will allow air to enter the system. The telltale symptom is a soft or spongy brake pedal or the pedal just traveling happily to the floorboard. NEVER drive the vehicle in this condition.

Modern Classic: 1982 DeLorean DMC-12

Hurst Wheels

In January of 1965, a press conference was held in Los Angeles announcing the introduction of the all-new Hurst automotive wheels. George Hurst, the manufacturer of the famous Hurst shifters, and, later, inventor of the Jaws of Life rescue machine, teamed up with Harvey Aluminum to manufacture the wheels. It was the first use of aircraft-quality forged- aluminum centers combined with steel rims for automotive wheels. The combination proved to be super strong throughout rigorous testing on the "rotary fatigue tester," spinning the wheel at incredible rpm, and the 2,000-pound weight-dropping test for rim and spoke durability.

Upgrading Your Bushings

We all know what it's like to suffer from sore joints. Even if you're in good physical condition, without enough cushioning between your bones, ordinary motions can be difficult. Now, apply that same concept to the suspension on your old car or truck. The bushings found on the control arms, leaf springs and various mounts are like the cartilage between your joints. The manufacturer normally equips a vehicle with rubber bushings, which provide a soft ride. Over time, however, the rubber begins to wear from oil and other contaminants under your vehicle, and the suspension components start to bind. That's when the automotive equivalent of arthritis sets in, and your vehicle's performance suffers (not to mention your own level of ride and handling comfort). Worn bushings are one of the major reasons for road wander. Rubber bushings may crush down before the suspension can respond to a bumpy road, allowing for play or wobble.

Rust Repair and Restoration

Considering just how popular the '32 Ford is for various resto and hot rod projects, it's no surprise that original tin, if you can find it, usually needs a lot of rust repair. Due to the puddling of water that mixes with road salt, the bottom areas of the doors are particularly vulnerable (which is true of many older cars, so these repair tips apply to a wide range of vehicles). For a collectible car, a repair with body filler is not the way to go. You've got to cut out the old rust and weld in a new patch.

Automotive Diagnostic Tool Tips

Your engine is like your body: it usually tells you when something is going wrong. We get aches and pains; your engine starts making funny noises. Squeaking, grinding, pinging, chirping and the dreaded knocking are all telltale signs of trouble. Finding the source of the noise is sometimes very difficult under the hood with the engine running. There are so many different simultaneous mechanical sounds that isolating the problem with just your hearing is virtually impossible. So, let's play doctor and get a stethoscope.

Automotive Diagnostic Tool Tips

Modern Classic: 1949-51 Mercury Coupe

To qualify as "modern classics," we've chosen vehicles that are comparatively affordable now and that we think will increase in value over time. These are cars that many people would love to have: head-turners, trend-setters in their time, cars that people still see that make them smile, cars that were definitive in their own right, stylish and fun to drive. We're focusing on cars that are at least 25 years old so they can be registered and insured cheaply and aren't subject to annual inspections.

Modern Classic: 1955-62 MGA

Custom Car Culture

Whether you call them Customs or Kustoms, these unique and unusual vehicles have carved out a colorful and fascinating niche in the hot rod arena since their roots in the 1940s. Today, they're more popular than ever, sculpted in a dizzying array of artistic and even eccentric designs. Whatever production car they started out as, most of them end up as low, long, and sleek shapes with "uninterrupted" lines.

Restoration Tires

Reproduction tires might be required for a concours restoration, but there is a price to pay for originality. The tire technology of the Fifties and Sixties leaves a lot to be desired when compared to today's high-speed radial designs and rubber compounds. But, when restoring a Sixties musclecar for show, adding the correct redline or small white letter tires is virtually mandatory.

Modern Classic: Camaro Z28

To qualify as "modern classics," we're choosing vehicles that are comparatively affordable now which we think will increase in value over time. These are cars that many people would love to have: head-turners, trend-setters in their time, cars we still see that make us smile, cars that were definitive in their own right, stylish and fun to drive. We're focusing on cars that are at least 25 years old so they can be registered and insured cheaply and aren't subject to annual inspections.

Polishing Chrome

Chrome never goes out of style. Although it was less popular a few years ago when the trend was toward the "Euro" habit of painting all aspects of the car body, chrome is making a comeback. After all, it'd be a fashion felony to sport all that bling-bling around the neck and on the fingers with no light-bursts emanating from your ride.

Paint Chip Repair

Despite the technological advances in paint over the last hundred years, an automobile's exterior comes under heavy assault the instant the car rolls off the production line. Door dings, bird droppings, corrosive rain, winter road salt and ocean fog all take their toll on that thin layer of color that protects your vehicle's steel body from the elements. Rock chips are especially damaging, as unlike contaminants that slowly eat away at the paint, rock chips cut all the way down to bare metal without prior warning. That allows moist air immediate access and surface rust soon follows. Worse yet, the rust can spread like a cancer beneath previously undamaged paint, so it's best to fix the damage and seal the hole as quickly as possible.

Paint Stripping Refined

Paint jobs have become one of the largest expenses of restoring a car. A quality total repaint, including jambs and all the areas necessary for a color change, starts at $5,000—and goes up from there. If you're making that kind of investment, you want the new paint to last for at least 10 years, if not more. To ensure a lasting paint job you need to strip the vehicle down to bare metal and apply the best paint/primer sealers available. The downfall of most paint jobs is the build-up of old paint, primer and body filler that is painted over. These old materials deteriorate with age and are sometimes incompatible with new paint materials. Deep cracks called "checking" and shrinkage around repaired areas are common problems.

Window Installation

To correctly paint your vehicle, the window glass should be removed. Unfortunately removal can sometimes be a lot easier than reinstallation. Here's a quick overview of the glass installation procedure, but the final adjustments against the weatherstripping, etc. will be a trial-and-error procedure on your part.

Fuel & Brake Line Installation

The 1964-72 GM Chevelle, GTO, Skylark (GS) and Cutlass (4-4-2) A-body vehicles contain basically the same undercarriage. The early versions had the fuel and brake lines running down the driver's side, and the later cars added fuel-return and emissions lines running down either and sometimes both sides of the frame rails. After years of abuse from rust and road debris, these lines should be replaced for safety, particularly if you're doing a major restoration on the car. There are several prominent aftermarket suppliers of pre-bent steel or stainless-steel replacement lines with the correct color-coded end fittings for the discriminating restorer. Here we will look at the basics of installing new fuel and brake lines down the driver's side frame rail on an early A-body. If you have lines on both sides, the process will be almost identical.

Modern Classic: Fiat 124

Rekindling Side Marker Lights

While the restoration parts industry is booming for Chevy parts, the other three GM brands (Buick, Olds and Pontiac) sometimes suffer due to the small number of vehicles originally manufactured. Tooling to make repro parts is expensive, and if the sales numbers don't justify the expense, owners of these vehicles are simply out of luck for replacements. These side marker lights from a 1969 Buick GS convertible are original and in salvageable condition. The bare metal retaining brackets are covered in surface rust, but after light sandblasting, they'll be as good as new. The plastic lenses are mildly cracked and will polish out with a little elbow grease. The biggest problem is the surround bezels on the plastic lenses. Sometime in the dim past, probably during a repaint, some cretin with a sanding block scuffed the metal trim pieces. We'll attempt to restore all these items—no replacements are available from the restoration aftermarket. While we are dealing here with Buick lights, the basic resto techniques will work for most manufacturers.

Rekindling Side Marker Lights

Installing Window Weather Stripping

Weather stripping is what keeps you warm, cool and quiet while cruisin' in your ride. On the assembly line, the factory sealed the side windows of most vehicles with two types of insulation. The outside is usually sealed with rubber against the glass, and the inside is sealed with what's commonly called "fuzzies." These pieces are similar to short hairbrushes that also rub against the glass as it goes up and down. The fuzzies mainly function as dust insulation and a support for the glass to keep it from rubbing on the metal door. Here's a quick overview of how to install these critical pieces on a 1964-72 GM A-body.

1969 Camaro Z/28 Identification

The Chevrolet Z/28 is genuinely a legend in its own time. Conceived by Chevrolet engineer Vince Piggins, the car was Chevy's entry into the new Trans-Am racing series in the mid-Sixties. Battling against the Mustang Boss 302, Mercury Cougar, AMX and other muscle cars, it won the Trans-Am Championship in 1969. Today, the street versions are highly prized by Camaro collectors and restorers. But there is a caveat—the really valuable examples must be numbers-matching and factory-stock.

A/C Housing Repair

A big part of auto restoration is deciding which parts to restore and which parts to replace. If you have a very original numbers-matching vehicle, it makes sense to redo as many of the original parts as possible. If you're restoring a car that's been modified or rebuilt with different parts, then reproduction parts are a good way to go. However, there are some parts that aren't being reproduced and are very difficult to find—at least in better condition than the parts you already have. A good example is your air conditioning housing or "suitcase" as it's commonly called. Many are made out of fiberglass and are frequently broken during the engine changing process. As soon as there's a hole in the A/C suitcase, exhaust fumes and other engine-compartment odors can be circulated through the heating/air conditioning system, making the vehicle unbearable to drive.

Reviving Original Emblems

If you're into parts originality for your restoration, then saving vintage badges and emblems is important to you. Many suppliers are now manufacturing reproduction items, but most don't carry those original part numbers so precious to many resto enthusiasts. New old stock (NOS) emblems are becoming scarce and expensive, so save those originals!

Restoring Your Original Bumper Jack

Like most restoration endeavors, addressing the little details makes a huge difference in the finished product. The bumper jack supplied with your GM car is usually an overlooked item in an otherwise-pristine trunk area. Many resto enthusiasts look at a beat-up bumper jack and can't figure how to restore it—the ratchet assembly isn't removable. The process is relatively simple and can be accomplished in a few hours in the garage.

Modern Classic: 1967-74 Saab Sonett

Auto Vinyl Interior Dyeing

If your vinyl interior is in good or excellent condition, but stained or faded from the sun, there is an inexpensive fix you can do at home. Most large automotive paint suppliers carry a full line of professional vinyl re-coloring products that are both easy to use and will match your original factory color. For example, you have a 1965 GTO with a Teal Turquoise interior like the example shown here. Simply specify the correct year and color, if possible, and the dye can be mixed on the spot. The dye requires no thinning, but a compressor and spray gun should be used for best results. Both of these items can be rented for a day or weekend at your local rental yard. The results are incredible, and you'll save a bundle over buying a complete reproduction interior kit.

Modern Classic: 1955-58 Porsche Speedster

Porsche's beloved Speedster started life as a "stripper." New York Dealer/entrepreneur Max Hoffman convinced Ferry Porsche there was a market for a low-priced roadster that could easily be converted for racing. Priced at just $2,995 (heater and tach were extra), the Speedster was essentially a lightweight version of Porsche's 356 Cabrio, sans roll-up windows and heavy padded top. The Speedster's distinguishing feature was that impossibly low windscreen, chopped some 3.5 inches shorter than the Cabrio's. With its thin canvas top erected, the Speedster resembled a short, fattish man with his hat pulled down over his eyes. A minimalistic approach kept weight down, and the rear-mounted air-cooled boxer type engine maintained a low center of gravity.

Engine Rebuilding: Rods & Pistons

Think about it: At 6,000 rpm, a piston accelerates, comes to a complete stop, and repeats the cycle more than a 100 times per second! We're not talking about an electrical process here where a sensor samples info 100 times per second—we're describing a mechanical process where a 3-pound piston/rod assembly is trying to launch into orbit 100 times per second. The forces on the piston, wrist pin, connecting rod and crankshaft are scary. It's amazing that an engine can keep from literally exploding at those speeds. All the more reason to get it right when installing rods and pistons in the engine YOU'RE rebuilding. The magazine articles make it look simple, but if this is your first attempt at building an engine, installing rods and pistons may seem overwhelming. We will outline a few basic steps here to guide you through the process.

Speedometer Replacement

Until the introduction of electronic instrumentation, most auto speedometers were cable driven. The drive cable has a square end and threaded bezel that simply inserts into a fitting in the back of the speedo and then travels directly to the transmission. After years of use, the square end of the cable occasionally rounds out and the cable spins noisily in the speedometer housing. Needless to say the needle just moves in a jerky, bouncing fashion. To replace the speedo the instrument cluster must come out of the vehicle.

Steering Wheel R&R

Although I've worked on cars for more than 35 years, I've never removed a steering wheel—not that I shouldn't have. Some of the cars I've owned have had horns that didn't blow and signal lights that didn't cancel. And more than one of my resto projects needed to have the cracks in the wheel rim repaired and painted to finish off the project. If I had known how easy it was to remove and replace the steering wheel and hub assembly, I would have done it a lot sooner.

Engine Rebuilding: Cylinder Heads

Most engine rebuilds for restoration projects fall short when it comes to cylinder head preparation. That's okay if you don't plan to put on many miles and peak engine performance is not important. Show cars or cars that will sit in a collection are perfect examples. A simple "quick and dirty" rebuilder special will do just fine.

Carburetor Refinishing

You may have been rebuilding your own carburetors for years, and while they may function perfectly, they just don't have the look of a new or professionally refinished carb. Now, thanks to some innovative restoration products, getting that factory-new appearance is as easy as spray painting any other component.

Engine Rebuilding: The Camshaft

In spite of all the talk these days about engine management of the electronic kind, the camshaft is still calling most of the shots. Virtually every parameter such as peak torque, a usable power band, peak horsepower, manifold vacuum, fuel mileage and more are determined by the cam's timing specifications. No other single modification can produce as much horsepower per dollar. No other single modification can cost you as much power, efficiency and driveability if you select the wrong cam.

Taillight Housing Resto

Safety should always be the primary concern while driving your car, particularly at night. Bright, functional turn signals and taillights play a key role in that safety. Especially with older muscle cars, the taillights don't shine as brightly as when new. Here is some illuminating information that every car restorer should know.

Taillight Housing Resto

Trunk Compartment Restoration

Your car trunk is like a basement—it's a place to throw stuff! Mostly stuff you don't care to see again for a while. That is unless you have a flat and have to unload all that stuff to change your tire. Not fun, even on a sunny day! A restored trunk on a collector car becomes a thing of beauty to help in winning another car-show trophy. It's a simple process provided the trunk floor is sound and no metal replacement is required—and it's the same for almost any trunk compartment. Simply research what color the sheetmetal was painted and whether or not you need a trunk mat. Our subject here is a Sixties GM A-body (Chevelle, Skylark, Cutlass or LeMans/GTO) that has a sound trunk, except that somewhere along the line a carpet was glued to the floor. Not good! We'll begin by removing the goo and glue left from that unrighteous redecoration.

Corvette Restoration: The Engine

When it comes to restoring a classic Corvette, making it "better than new" is not always the best approach, at least if you plan on entering a competition for the NCRS (National Corvette Restoration Society). Judges actually deduct points for an engine that's too quiet or a paint job that's smoother than the original. Imperfections such as noisy tappet valves or wavy fiberglass are hallmarks of an authentic Corvette because that's the way they came straight from the factory back in the '50s and '60s. For these and other arcane details about the world of restoration, we visited with Carlos and Sherry Vivas of C&S Corvette Restoration.

Corvette Restoration: The Chassis

In our first installment about the restoration of a classic Corvette, we introduced you to Milton Lewis and his silver-blue '64 Coupe. We covered a bit about the history of the car, the engine, and the painstaking efforts to win the prestigious NCRS Mark of Excellence Duntov award. With the body removed and the engine being freshened, Milton set to work on the chassis with the assistance of Carlos Vivas of C&S Corvette Restoration. Vivas prefers handling the "mid-year" Corvettes ('63-'67). "I can do those blindfolded," he laughs. "But on the earlier cars, nothing was the same."

Modern Classic: 1962 BMW 1500

To qualify as a "modern classics," vehicles are chosen based upon comparative affordability now and that we think will increase in value over time. They are cars that many people would love to have: head-turners, trend-setters in their time, cars that people still see that make them smile, then want to hit the cruise circuit. They are cars that were definitive in their own right, stylish and fun to drive. Our focus is on cars that are at least 25 years old, so they can be registered and insured cheaply, and aren't subject to annual inspections.

Monster Garage @ The Pete

You've probably seen them on TV, those bizarre Monster Garage creations by Jesse James—not the Wild West outlaw but the legendary Harley customizer. Touted by People Magazine as one of the sexiest men alive, this brawny bike builder turns perfectly good vehicles into Franken-rides: a Mustang that mows the lawn, a Porsche that picks up golf balls, a VW New Beetle converted into an airboat. You name it—Jesse and the Monster Garage can build it. And these oddball yet fully functional inventions were all on display at the Petersen Automotive Museum as part of a Monster Garage traveling exhibit.

Corvette Resto: The Body

For the final installment on the restoration of the '64 Corvette Coupe owned by Milton Lewis, we get into an area that most auto enthusiasts may not be familiar with: fiberglass bodywork. Maybe you know how to grind and pound on sheetmetal, but how about those resin-impregnated fibers? Lack of familiarity with the material is not the only challenge here: back when these cars were built, the fiberglass finish just wasn't as good as the resin-transfer methods used on later-model Vettes. Smoothing out the surface isn't the issue since there are a lot of refinishing products on the market that can make a body look better than new.

Mustang GT350 Restomod Part 1

Actually, the car shown here is not an authentic Shelby GT350, but a re-creation like so many thousands of others produced over the years. In comparison to the paltry number of original GT350s produced in 1965 (562 in all), Ford manufactured a bazillion stock models, so it really makes more sense to focus on these sincerest forms of flattery. (Ironically, Carroll Shelby is now endorsing reconditioned GT500 Mustangs that look and perform like the "Eleanor" model that appeared in the movie "Gone in 60 Seconds." So if cloning is good enough for Shelby, himself, why not the rest of us?)

Mustang GT350 Restomod Part 3

As mentioned in our initial installment, the Shelby GT350 wasn't known for its engine size, as is typical for many cars. Instead, back in 1965, Carroll Shelby had grown weary in a lengthy meeting about naming the car, so on a whim he abruptly decided to base it on the number of steps between two of his shops.

Modern Classic: 1953 Sunbeam Alpine Sports

Aftermarket Disc Brake Install

Decades before Jim Carrey's now famous "Somebody stop me" line was uttered in the comic movie "The Mask," many drivers were probably thinking the same thing when braking their early Pontiac musclecars. In fact, not until 1967 did Pontiac even offer a front disc-brake option. Rear discs were not an option until 1979, and then only with the WS6 package. In 1964, metallic drum brakes were available on the GTO, but suffered from a malady then known as "morning sickness." In other words, until you warmed up the brakes, the car was downright dangerous to drive in a must-stop scenario.

Early GM Dash Bezel Restoration

The early GTO dash bezels were painted-over chrome-plated plastic. The entire bezel was plated and then painted to match the interior color scheme. Certain areas were left chrome as decorative accents, but original factory plastic plating turns black with age. The early GTO's had a removable plastic instrument bezel, which also contained the heater/defroster controls. Normally, the surround areas of these were painted with a flattening agent added to the lacquer to provide a non-reflective surface. Replacement woodgrain inserts, and in some cases new gauge lenses, are available from most aftermarket suppliers and the instruments can be cleaned at home. Here is an overview of removing the original bezel with blackened plastic chrome and the installation of a new re-chromed and re-painted bezel shown above.

Bringing a 1966 GTO Back to Life

Pontiac historians are well aware that the original GeeTO Tigers were part and parcel of a grand marketing scheme designed in the mid 1960s by Jim Wangers, co-creator of the GTO and former Pontiac marketing man, which emblazoned upon the consciousness of the car-buying public the GTO as the nation's premier street-driven performance car. It also solidified the overall image of Pontiac as the "coolest" marque in Detroit. Now, some 35-plus years later, Wangers has resurrected the GeeTO Tiger legend.

Modern Classic: 1976 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible

To qualify as a "modern classics," we choose vehicles that are comparatively affordable now, and that we think will increase in value over time. These are cars many people would love to have: head-turners, trend-setters in their time, cars people still see that make them smile, cars that were definitive in their own right, stylish and fun to drive. For this series, we focus on cars that are at least 25 years old, so they can be registered and insured cheaply and aren't subject to annual inspections.

Mustang GT350 Restomod Part 2

Having covered the mods on the drivetrain, chassis, and interior of Dan Holm's GT350-style conversion of a '67 Mustang, it's time to take a look at the tweaking directed at the exhaust system. As with many of the other upgrades Dan chose, there were more than a few ways that the exhaust could have been handled, allowing for personal expression of taste and preference. Choices made can affect a myriad of aspects, such as the peak horsepower, powerband width and range, exhaust tone, aesthetics, cost and durability. We'll address all of these factors starting from the exhaust headers and working back to the tailpipe tips.

Classic GM Alternator Restoration

The alternator in your car is often the Rodney Dangerfield of the engine compartment. While we spend untold hours detailing the carburetor, air cleaner, manifolds, wiring etc., we generally just wait for the alternator to go bad so we can get a clean rebuilt unit and let the old one be an exchange as a core unit. However, if you're trying to keep your car numbers matching or just want a perfect, restored alternator ... paint it! The idea of taking apart that little electric dynamo is a daunting proposition, but it's actually not that hard. And by dismantling it, you'll get a better, detailed finish—plus you can do any tune-up work that may be needed while you've got it apart.

Musclecar Ashtray Restoration

Whether you're a cigarette smoker or not, chances are you wouldn't smoke in your classic musclecar. The idea of lighting up and placing a cigarette anywhere near those new seats or carpet is more than an alarming thought. However, that old ashtray probably got plenty of use back in the '60s and '70s when looking cool at street races meant having a cigarette hanging out of your mouth. Years of nicotine stains, ashes and the dreaded wad of gum can leave an ashtray looking like, well, an ashtray. Here's how to get a factory fresh look from the oft overlooked part of your dash.

Repainting an Old Musclecar

Pontiac's GTO is enjoying a resurgence in interest of late, in part due to a cameo appearance as actor Vin Diesel's hot ride in the action movie "Triple X." Of course, musclecar enthusiasts have long admired the "Goat," as it's affectionately nicknamed. Larry Weiner of Performance West Group, a noted builder of late-model show vehicles, is no exception.

Modern Classic: 1953 Jaguar Mark VII

To qualify as "modern classics," we choose vehicles, which are comparatively affordable now and that we think will increase in value over time. These are cars many people would love to have: head-turners, trend-setters in their time, cars that people see that still make them smile, cars that were definitive in their own right, stylish and fun to drive. Our focus is on cars at least 25 years old, so they can be registered and insured cheaply and aren't subject to annual inspections.

Modern Classic: Volkswagen Karmann Ghia

To qualify as a "modern classic," we choose vehicles, which are comparatively affordable now and that we think will increase in value over time. These are cars many people would love to have: head-turners, trend-setters in their time, cars people see that still make them smile, cars that were definitive in their own right, stylish and fun to drive. Our focus is on cars at least 25 years old, so they can be registered and insured cheaply and aren't subject to annual inspections. Tastes may vary, as may peoples' own definitions of "affordable." Our theoretical limit is $50,000 for a car in good to excellent condition, which rules out many of the traditional exotics. This month's selection is the Volkswagen Karmann Ghia.

Repainting an Old Musclecar

In our first story about restoring a 1965 Pontiac GTO, we told about the project in general and then looked at the suspension upgrades and body prep. In this second article, we'll focus on the actual application of the paint. For some hands-on tips about how to achieve a flawless finish, we spoke with Mike Face of Mike Face Custom Paint in San Bernardino, who has done dozens of show cars for the owner of this GTO, Larry Weiner.

Color-Sanding and Buffing

Paint isn't what it used to be, which is both good and bad. The old lacquer type emitted unwanted fumes. Today's two-part urethane is cleaner and healthier, but getting the same level of shine takes a bit more effort. That's where color-sanding, along with some extra clearcoats and buffing, can really bring out the gleam in this gold GTO.

Top 10 Stolen Classic Cars

TRAVERSE CITY, Mich. (April 2003)—The Chevrolet Corvette was named the number one stolen collector vehicle in a recent study conducted by the Hagerty Protection Network (HPN) between July 1999 and December 2002. The report issued by Hagerty Insurance, the nation's largest insurer of collectible cars and motorcycles, indicates that vintage Chevrolets are the most stolen brand commanding close to 40 percent of collector cars stolen in the last three years.

Returning a 1966 GTO to its Glory Days

In 1966 Pontiac campaigned two identically prepared GTOs at drag strips around the country providing the crowds with a show that became legend—the GeeTO Tiger Show. In "Bringing a 1966 GTO Back to Life: Transforming an Old Goat into a New Tiger," the restoration began of a '66 GTO destined to become a legend reincarnated. Completed was the search for a representative car, the gathering of parts and partners, and the resurrection of the beautiful body and requisite lettering and logos.

Modern Classic: Vincent Black Shadow

Modern Classic: Nash Metropolitan

Rolls-Royce: A Century of Elegance

They are not the fastest, or the best handling, or the most technologically advanced cars in the world. Yet, almost every modern-day king and queen has been chauffeured in them. Movie stars are driven around Hollywood in them. Music and sports stars have flaunted them like the status symbols they are. They are what many luxury car aficionados consider the best motorcar ever produced: the Rolls-Royce.

GTO Upholstery Resto

We've already covered several aspects of the "restification" of this particular '65 Pontiac GTO, from suspension mods to bodywork; but, before we get into the interior (literally), we should step back a bit and explain what that term means, relative to this particular project vehicle.

Vintage Racing: The Sport

In many ways, today's racing is undoubtedly safer than in the past, but in other, less tangible ways it just doesn't seem as much fun. Fortunately, if you yearn for the "good ol' days" of motorsports competition, there is a segment that may be just right for you—vintage racing. We'll start with an overview of the sport, and in later articles we'll cover the cars, safety equipment and getting a racing license.

1957 BMW Isetta 300

Vintage Racing: The Cars

In our first installment we talked about the fast-growing sport of vintage racing, where cars from the past are taking to the tracks again at courses across the country. This time we are going to look into the types of cars that are competing, and some of the rules you can expect to find.

Vintage Racing: Getting Started

In the first two parts of this series, we saw how vintage racing has become one of the fastest growing forms of amateur motorsports. We also discussed the various types of vehicles involved in the sport. Now it's time to find out how to get on the track and start having fun. The first thing you will need is the right attitude.

Vintage Racing: Your First Race

In the other Vintage Racing articles, we learned what vintage racing is all about, picked out the perfect car and surrounded ourselves with safety equipment. Here, we'll cover gettng our license and what it's like going to our first event. Hang on—we're on the track at last!

Shelby Cobra Day at Petersen Museum

It all started on January 11, 1923 in Leesburg, Texas. That was the day one of the world's greatest racers and automotive entrepreneurs was born, Carroll Hall Shelby.

Corvette Grand Sport

Corvette enthusiasts already know the story of the Grand Sport, but it's worth retelling. Back in the Sixties, the Ford-powered Shelby Cobra was just beginning to dominate road-course racing. In retaliation, GM engineer Zora Arkus-Duntov took the then-new Corvette Sting Ray and whacked 1,000 pounds off the car, throwing everything that didn't contribute to speed into the dumpster. He employed a tubular chassis with aluminum reinforcements, and was rewarded with the Grand Sport, a Corvette that quickly proved to be a Mongoose capable of eating a Cobra—alive. Even though there were plans for 100 more Grand Sports, GM management scrapped the program, and the five originals disappeared from the track, melting into private hands.

Modern Classic: Lamborghini 350 GT

VW Beetle History

An automotive legend passed into history on July 30, 2003 when the last original-design Volkswagen Beetle rolled off the assembly line in Puebla, Mexico. After nearly 70 years and over 21.5 million units, the Beetle had finally outlived its demand. The last 3,000 Beetles were "Ultima Edicion" models with special colors and trim packages. They were a final tribute to a landmark car that changed the face of the automotive industry.

History of the Z-Car

As anyone who has seen "The Fast and Furious" movies knows, Japanese cars are now in the front lines of the performance wars. Super Supras, hellacious Hondas and massaged Mazdas are routinely running sub-11-second quarter miles and giving big-inch Detroit iron a run for its money. This turn of affairs dates back to the early 1960s when the Japanese were best known for their small sedans and traditional convertible sports cars. All that changed in 1969 when Datsun introduced the revolutionary 240Z.

The Immortal Corvette: 1953-1962

It's hard to imagine the American automotive scene without the Corvette. The Vette has sold by the tens of thousands, won hundreds of races, starred in the television show Route 66 and was hailed by Prince in his ode "Little Red Corvette." It has been the favorite ride of astronauts, race drivers and rock-n-roll musicians. Yet it wasn't always so glamorous. In its infancy, the Corvette was an underpowered, overstyled "sheep in wolf's clothing" that hung on to its existence by the narrowest of margins. How it survived to prosper is a tale worth telling.

The Immortal Corvette: 1963-1967

In the first part of this series, we covered the birth of the Corvette, and the changes made from the 1953 to '62 models. Here, we'll tell the story of the Sting Rays that followed. By 1961, the Corvette was in jeopardy. Jaguar had introduced its stunningly beautiful XKE, which not only looked sleek, but had fully independent suspension and four-wheel disc brakes as well. Next to it, the '61/'62 Corvette looked like a leftover from the Fifties (besides being saddled with a live axle in back and inferior drum brakes). Meanwhile, back at GM, Corvette chief Zora Arkus-Duntov and styling guru Bill Mitchell had been burning the midnight oil to bring out an all-new Corvette that could be built on a meager development budget.