Auto Parts and Outdoor Solutions

Automotive Battery Chargers - Auto Parts

2014-06-12T18:44:00.000+06:00

Automotive Battery chargers range from 1-amp-output promotional models to commercial units with amp ratings in excess of 100. For normal home auto use, a 3- to 10- amp rating is sufficient for slow charges and 60 to 100 amps for fast charges. The amp rating is the output of the charger and controls the length of time required for the battery to charge. Most car batteries are rated around 50 to 70 amp/hours. A constant amp output multiplied by the number of hours would indicate the charge in the battery.

Ten amps output for five hours would equal 50 amp hours. Most battery chargers, however, have tapered charges, meaning that the output is not constant. As the charge builds up in the battery, the battery voltage retards the output of the charger to as much as 50 percent capacity. A 10-amp charger, then, might be putting out only 5 amps as the battery nears its full charge. Constant-output chargers are available but have limited applications.

Another element found on some chargers is the “booster charge.” This is a device that converts household alternating current to direct current, allowing the automobile engine to start directly from the outside current supplied. This eliminates having to wait for the battery to charge before the engine can be started.

Booster capacities are available in ratings as high as 300 amps, but most cars require from 90 to 110 amps of cranking power. A 100- amp booster element is usually sufficient for normal home use.

Battery Voltage

Battery chargers specify the voltage of the battery on which they can be used. Some can be used only on 6V or 12V batteries while others can be used on both types. Manufacturers’ specifications should indicate output at specific voltages.

Automatic Chargers

If a charge is applied to a battery after the battery is fully charged, the amperage converts to heat energy, causing the electrolyte to evaporate. Automatic chargers eliminate this problem by automatically switching off when the battery is charged and back on again if the charge decreases.

This is useful for people who own boats, electric golf carts and other items used occasionally. The charger can be attached to the battery to keep it fully charged for months at a time. Virtually all batteries will lose their charge during a long period of inactivity; an automatic charger keeps them at peak efficiency.

A quality automatic charger should be capable of keeping a battery fully charged over a long period without causing electrolyte evaporation or any noticeable increase in the electrolyte temperature.

Battery Jumper or Booster Cabels - Auto Parts

2014-06-12T12:16:00.000+06:00

Booster cables are insulated conductors with alligator clamps at each end to provide a temporary booster charge from a live battery to a low battery.

Copper-core cables are considered quality with better conduction capabilities than aluminum conductors. Aluminum cables are frequently used for promotional purposes.

Automotive Battery - Auto Parts

2014-06-11T13:02:00.000+06:00

An automobile battery produces electricity through chemical reaction. Two plates, made of different metals, are immersed in sulfuric acid (an electrolyte) which creates a flow of electrons to produce electrical power. Automobile batteries have several cells, each of which produces 2 volts of power. Most automobiles require 12V batteries consisting of six cells. Each cell has its own plates and electrolyte to produce a portion of the total output of the battery. These are wired in series to the positive and negative posts of the battery.

BATTERY SAFETY TIPS

Batteries are filled with sulfuric acid and therefore can be dangerous if handled improperly. The acid can eat through clothing and burn flesh. Do not smoke or cause sparking near an auto battery. Wear outer garments including gloves and safety goggles when working on a battery. If battery acid comes in contact with skin or eyes, flush with water for 15 minutes and get medical attention.

LEAD ACID BATTERY ALERT

Lead acid batteries are the major source of lead entering the municipal solid waste system. Disposals of batteries in landfills and incinerators can result in human exposure to lead via ground water, drinking water and ambient air. High levels of lead exposure can cause brain and nervous disorders, anemia, high blood pressure, kidney and reproductive problems and even death. Children are particularly sensitive to the effects of lead poisoning. Many states have enacted legislation which bans the disposal of batteries in municipal solid waste landfills and incinerators. Most of these laws are specific regarding how used batteries are handled. Retailers selling a new battery are required to accept and recycle the old battery. In addition, many states require that the secondary lead smelter or state-authorized collection and recycling facility by the retailer who accepts used batteries. Check to see if your state has such legislation and be sure your store has a copy of the law.

As current is drawn from the battery, the acid is absorbed by the plates. When all the acid is absorbed, the electrolyte becomes essentially water and the battery can no longer produce a current. Charging the battery causes the acid to move from the plates back into the solution. Ampere-hour capacity or electrical size are terms referring to the number of plates per cell or the size of the plates. Increasing size or number means increased power capacity.

Wet/Dry Charge

The terms wet or dry charge refer to whether the electrolyte is in the battery when it is shipped. If batteries arrive dry, the electrolyte must be added and the battery given a “boost” charge. The following procedures are recommended:

Fill each cell to the top of the separators with electrolyte (water cannot be used).
Boost charge until warm to the touch. Electrolyte should be about 80°F.
Check specific gravity with hydrometer. Should be minimum of 1.250.
Add electrolyte to each cell to bring level to appropriate level indicated by manufacturer.

Shipping and storing dry batteries has the obvious advantage of eliminating spillage, etc. The disadvantage is the time, labor and materials necessary to convert dry batteries to wet. Maintenance-free batteries are permanently sealed; the unit contains fluid but provides no access to it. They are considerably more costly but require no additional water throughout the normal life of the battery. Special alloy grids reduce water loss, and a greater reservoir of electrolyte works with the grids to extend the normal life.

Cranking Amps

Cranking amps, or cranking performance, is a measurement of the power relationship between batteries and engine size. One cranking amp is recommended for each cubic-inch displacement of the engine.

A cranking amps value of 400, for example, is the minimum rating that should be used for an engine with a 400-cubic-inch displacement. High compression ratios, extreme weather conditions or high-power accessories would require an even higher cranking amps rating.

Battery Testing

The battery charge can be tested with a hydrometer, which measures the specific gravity of the electrolyte. A specific gravity of 1.000 means that the liquid is essentially water. A fully charged battery should have a specific gravity reading of approximately 1.265. A reading of 1.220 indicates a half charged battery and 1.180 means the battery is near total discharge.

Batteries must also be tested for variance between cells. A reading showing a difference of more than .050 between cells means the battery must be replaced; less indicates it can be recharged. Batteries stored wet should be periodically checked to ensure that the specific gravity reading remains above 1.250. Every battery should be checked prior to its sale.

Another test that should be made prior to selling the battery is the load test. A meter is connected between the negative and positive poles to check the actual load produced. A poor reading indicates that the battery is either not fully charged or that it is defective.

Maintenance Tips

Fluid levels should be checked once a month and cells filled to within 1/4” of the bottom of the filler neck. If it is necessary to add fluid, distilled water should be used and the engine run for a time if the temperature is below freezing. Dirt and water should be cleaned from the top of the battery and corrosion removed from the terminals and clamps.

Carburetor Cleaner - Automotive Chemicals

2014-06-10T21:27:00.001+06:00

If a customer is having engine performance problems that he thinks are linked to a carburetor, suggest that he try a carburetor cleaner before he invests in a new or rebuilt carburetor. These cleaners can be applied several ways such as a fuel-tank additive or poured into the carburetor throat. Another cleaner connects the contents to the fuel inlet after disconnecting the fuel line.

Whichever the consumer decides to use, read the instructions carefully and make sure the cleaner will not damage the catalytic converter. Similar additives clean fuel injectors.

Windshield Cleaners - Automotive Chemicals

2014-06-10T21:14:00.003+06:00

Windshield washer solvents are usually made of methanol and other solvents to keep the water from freezing as well as clean the windshield. Available in concentrated form to be added to water or in diluted form that is ready to pour into the washer reservoir jar.

Ready-to-use solvents are usually rated to about -30°F.

Waxes and Cleaners - Automotive Chemicals

2014-06-10T20:59:00.000+06:00

Cleaners include solvents and other chemicals that remove road tar, dead pigment and other materials without damaging the car’s finish. Many car waxes include cleaning elements to clean and wax in a single application. Long-lasting liquid and paste waxes usually cost more. A stock of two or three varieties of liquid and paste wax and cleaners will usually satisfy most customers.

In addition to body cleaners and waxes, there are also tire-cleaning compounds, whitewall cleaners, tire blackings, vinyltop cleaners and conditioners, rug and upholstery cleaners.

Crankcase Cleaners - Automotive Chemicals

2014-06-09T15:43:00.000+06:00

Unlike oil additives, crankcase cleaners or flush cannot be left in the crankcase. Instructions are indicated on the container, but normally the chemical is added to the crankcase and the engine is run for a specific period of time to allow the chemical to circulate and break loose accumulations in the oil pan.

The crankcase must then be drained and a new oil filter installed along with a new supply of motor oil.

Engine oil Additives - Automotive Chemicals

2014-06-09T00:47:00.000+06:00

Oil additives are combinations of oil distillates and other chemicals that make engines operate more efficiently by freeing sticky valves, sealing piston rings, retarding oil breakdown, etc. They are usually a form of extremely heavy oil more resistant to change under high temperature so that viscosity (thickness) is maintained at high speeds.

Increased lubrication and sealing capacities are attributed to greater adhesion to engine parts. The additives are usually added to the oil and used under normal driving conditions. Oil additives are not cure-alls. They can improve engine performance by sealing leaks into valves and combustion chambers. They will prolong the life of an engine, but cannot repair serious damage.

Transmission Sealants - Automotive Chemicals

2014-06-09T00:19:00.001+06:00

Transmission sealers and conditioners are added to the transmission fluid and used under normal driving conditions to improve operation and to seal minor leaks. Usually, they include chemicals that retard oil decomposition and improve stability.

They seal by softening transmission gaskets and seals, closing up small leaks caused by dried or cracked seals. This remedies only minor leaks.

Automotive Chemicals - Transmission Fluid

2014-06-08T22:35:00.000+06:00

Automatic transmission fluid functions as a power-transfer fluid, hydraulic fluid and a gear lubricant. The fluid must perform these functions in a wide range of temperatures; it has an SAE grade rating of 5W-20. Automatic transmission fluid must be high quality and fortified against oxidation caused by high operating temperatures in an automatic transmission.
Most vehicle manufacturers recommend against using automatic transmission fluid in power steering systems. It can cause deterioration of the connecting hoses.

Automotive Chemicals - Radiator Additives

2014-06-08T17:40:00.000+06:00

Cooling system additives include sealants, rust inhibitors, lubricants and flush. Sealants, rust inhibitors and water pump lubricants are added to the radiator and used under normal driving conditions. Sealing ability is restricted to minor holes. Radiator flush requires that the radiator be drained after allowing the chemical to circulate through the cooling system.

It is designed to dislodge accumulations of rust and other foreign materials that might impede the flow of water. Manufacturer’s instructions will indicate the length of time the engine should be run prior to draining the radiator and block of the vehicle.

Automotive Chemicals - Antifreeze

2014-06-07T20:22:00.001+06:00

Almost all antifreezes are called “permanent” and are made primarily from ethylene glycol. Nonpermanent antifreeze is made primarily of methyl alcohol, which evaporates. The ethylene glycol, while preventing water from freezing, also serves as a coolant because of its high heat transfer qualities. As an example, one major brand of antifreeze mixed with equal parts of water will lower the freezing point to -34°F and raise the boiling point to 260°F.

It can be used year-round. Compact automobiles, with their highpowered engines and low-capacity radiators, require the use of coolants, and all major automobile manufacturers add permanent antifreeze at the factory. Antifreeze containers should list the amount of antifreeze required according to radiator capacity and temperature level required. Manufacturers recommend that permanent antifreeze be changed every two years.

Automotive Car Ignition System

2014-06-05T06:05:00.000+06:00

With the exception of very old model cars, most cars have electronic ignition systems. In general, the wire sets on electronic ignitions need to be replaced every 30,000 miles due to the high voltage (14,000 to 30,000 volts), which breaks down the wire sets internally. Also, the higher under-hood temperatures of new cars deteriorate the wire sets externally.

Autos equipped with electronic ignitions have no need for points and condensers. Distributor tune-up kits containing points, rotor and condenser remedy ignition problems in cars without electronic systems.

Automotive Car Lighting - Tune-Up Accessories

2014-06-04T16:42:00.000+06:00

In addition to headlights, taillights, turn signals and license-plate lights, there are numerous lights in the car interior that must be replaced periodically. Also, fuses occasionally need replacing.

Headlights

Sealed-beam headlights are the most common; many state laws require this type of headlight. When a nonsealed headlight goes out, only the bulb needs to be replaced. Sealed-beam headlights must be replaced as an entire unit. In addition to conventional headlights, quartz-halogen headlights offer nearly double the candlepower but are also more expensive.

Exterior Lights/Bulbs

Although d-i-yers may have to remove the light lens, a whole light assembly or reach the light from under the fender or bumper, exterior light bulbs are still relatively easy to replace. Usually, the only tool needed to reach a defective exterior bulb is a screwdriver. To remove the bulb, push it into its socket, turn it and lift it out; then replace it with a new bulb.

Interior Bulbs/Fuses

There are several bulbs in an auto’s interior. Replacement can be as simple as putting in a new bulb to as difficult as disassembling the dash and other components. Fuses are usually easy to reach and replace. Fuses prevent the electrical system from overheating. Fuses, which are either glass-tube types or ceramic, blow as the result of shorts in the system. Glass-tube types are in most American cars; ceramic fuses are used in some imports. When replacing a fuse, it is best to suggest using a special fuse puller. Point out that pullers are much easier and safer than trying to pry out a fuse with a screwdriver.

Maintenance Equipment - Car Engine Belts

2014-06-04T04:57:00.000+06:00

A system of belts and pulleys driven by a main pulley connected to the motor’s crankshaft harnesses engine power to operate the power steering pump, water pumps, fan, etc. The most commonly used belt is the Vbelt, although there is another belt style that utilizes grooves corresponding to grooves in the pulley. Manufacturer programs offer a selection of common belts and pulleys to fit most of the cars on the road and target your inventory investment to the most frequently used items.

Consumers should be educated to check the condition of all the belts on the car and replace any that are cracked, slippery, dry or brittle. Broken belts can cause the engine to overheat.

Maintenance Equipment - Car Hoses

2014-06-04T04:40:00.000+06:00

Hoses in a car’s cooling system should be checked at least twice a year for cracks or other deterioration that can lead to leaks and overheating. When selling radiator and heater hoses, make sure the customer purchases the size and shape required for his

automobile. Also suggest clamps to fasten the hoses. Although there are a variety of clamp styles, the worm drive that uses a bolt to loosen and tighten the clamp’s band is efficient and easy to use.

Maintenance Equipment - Shock Absorbers

2014-06-03T17:11:00.001+06:00

Shock absorbers utilize a system that combines a piston with hydraulic fluid to cushion an automobile’s ride, providing degrees of stiffness and load-hauling capabilities. Several varieties are available depending on how the vehicle is used, such as driving conditions, hauling and pulling requirements. Changing shock absorbers is another task that d-i-yers can handle without special tools.

You may want to suggest that they use penetrating oil before trying to remove the absorbers and either caulk or silicone sealant on the absorbers’ fasteners to guard against rust after installing the units.

Maintenance Equipment - Car Air Filter

2014-06-02T19:06:00.000+06:00

Paying the labor bill on installing an air filter is a waste of money, since this is one of the simplest tasks for a d-i-yer. Air filters are contained in the air-cleaning system which may or may not be mounted on top of the carburetor. If not there, it is connected to the carburetor by a duct. The filter requires inspection at least every 12,000 miles and

should be replaced if light will not show through it. It should also be replaced if it shows wear such as tears.

Maintenance Equipment - Spark-Plug Wire Sets

2014-06-02T18:53:00.000+06:00

Spark-plug wires transmit the electrical charge from the distributor to the spark plug. They are available in sets of four, six or eight, depending on the number of cylinders. Length of the wires varies to reach the separate spark plugs.They should be inspected annually and replaced as needed.

Faulty wires cause ignition problems and a rough-running engine.

Maintenance Equipment - Spark Plug Wrenches

2014-06-02T18:45:00.000+06:00

Most socket wrench sets contain a deep well socket designed for use on spark plugs. However, on many cars the plugs are extremely difficult to reach. A special long handled, T-shaped wrench with a socket

permanently attached to the bottom of the “T” by a universal joint will solve the problem.

Tune-Up or Maintenance Equipment - Spark Plugs

2014-04-28T01:26:00.000+06:00

Spark-plug performance is one of the single most important factors in maintaining gasoline mileage and engine efficiency. It is estimated that one spark plug firing improperly can rob an auto of 15 to 35 percent of its fuel efficiency. A spark plug consists of an electrode encased in a ceramic insulator plus a metal shell threaded to fit into the engine block. A second electrode is attached to the shell. The distance between the two electrodes is called the gap and creates the spark. Gap settings are specified by engine manufacturers and should always be checked with a gauge and reset prior to installation of the plug.

It is imperative that the consumer purchase plugs recommended for use in his or her car, based on the plug’s size and performance profile. Just because it fits doesn’t mean that it will work efficiently in the auto.

Hot and Cold Plugs:

The terms “hot” and “cold” refer to the ability of the spark plugs to dissipate operating heat. They do not refer to the intensity of the spark. As an engine runs, heat builds up in the upper cylinder. If the spark plug cannot dissipate its own heat, it can become hot enough to ignite the fuel without the spark, causing the engine to misfire. This is called preignition and can cause serious damage to the engine, if not remedied.

A cold plug will dissipate heat more rapidly than a hot plug. Engine manufacturers will specify heat range ratings for the engines. Situations where a colder plug might be recommended are when the engine is modified for greater output, hauling heavy trailers, sustained high speeds or heavy-duty applications for exotic fuel uses.Hotter plugs might be used for “oil burners,” light-duty applications or continuous city driving.

Tune-Up or Maintenance Equipment - Grease Guns

2014-04-27T06:00:00.001+06:00

Two types of grease guns are usually sold by d-i-y retailers. One is a long cylinder (about 14”) that operates with a lever action. It frequently has a flexible hose that allows the user to maneuver the nozzle around corners and into tight spots. A smaller, more compact pistol-type can is operational with one hand and usually has its nozzle at the end of a short, rigid tube. It is suited for work in tight quarters. Grease can be bought in bulk to load into the guns or purchased in cartridge form.

Grease containing molybdenum disulfide is recommended for auto chassis.

Tune-Up or Maintenance Equipment - Oil Filters

2014-04-26T04:28:00.001+06:00

A specially treated paper filtering element contained in a metal screening is the prime component in virtually all oil filters. The paper is pleated into an accordion fold for maximum surface area and the metal screen is used to hold the paper in place and prevent its collapse under the high pressure that builds up in the oil system. Filter quality is determined by the minimum- sized particle that the filter is capable of stopping. A 10-micron rating, for instance, will stop a particle measuring approximately .0004 inches, but still allow the oil to circulate freely in the system.

Spin-On Filters:

Most cars are equipped with spin-on filters. These come with the filter enclosed in the canister. When changing the unit, the used canister is thrown away. When selling this type filter, always consult the catalog; although the filter might appear outwardly to fit on a given car, there is a good chance that the gaskets might not seat properly or that the bypass valves might not function. Special wrenches are available for use with filters of this type.

Long-Life Filters:

Dual or long-life filters are basically spin-on filters equipped with two filtering elements. The main paper filter handles the flow of oil under normal driving conditions. As oil pressure builds, pressure valves release some of the oil and channel it through a second element often made of a synthetic material such as rayon. This relieves back pressure and prevents clogging as oil pressure increases. As the pressure declines, the valves close and redirect all of the oil through the main filter element.

Cartridge-Type Filters:

Cartridge-type oil filters, used primarily on older cars, fit into a canister that is mounted on the engine. The filter and the canister lid must be seated properly to prevent oil leaks and to ensure that the oil passes entirely through the filtering element.

Tune-Up or Maintenance Equipment - Motor Oil

2014-04-26T04:11:00.000+06:00

Automotive d-i-yers have gone far beyond simple car care and appearance projects, graduating into full-scale maintenance tasks that include such things as tune-ups, oil changes, etc. With the available product knowledge and easy-to-use products and kits, the range of projects that d-i-yers are willing and able to tackle continues to expand.

MOTOR OILS

One of the simplest projects is an oil change. When selecting a motor oil, a consumer should understand its designator. SAE (Society of American Engineers) ratings indicate the viscosity of the oil. The most commonly used oil for automobiles is 10-, 20- and 30-weight or allweather combinations. A rating of 10 represents a thinner oil than a 30-rated oil. The thin oil is recommended for winter driving, where cold weather causes the oil to become thick and sluggish. A 30-rating oil is heavier and is applicable in warm climates. The designator “W” in a rating indicates that the oil has been tested for viscosity levels at specific cold temperatures.

An oil rated 10W-40 is considered an all-weather oil with sufficient viscosity for both summer and winter driving. A “CC” or “CD” label on an oil indicates that it is for diesel engines. It should also be noted that high-compression diesel engines usually require more frequent oil changes than their gasoline counterparts.

Synthetic motor oils are higher priced than petroleum products but extend change intervals up to 25,000 miles,according to some manufacturers. Synthetics can operate under a wide temperature range since the molecular chemistry is specifically developed at the outset rather than relying solely on refining procedures and additives to fortify a petroleum-based product. However, additives are still used in synthetics.

Generally, synthetics lubricate better, thus reducing engine wear; they are purported to enhance performance and economy. Two of the major drawbacks are increased price, which can run up to four times the price of conventional oils, and educating consumers to alter their oil-change intervals.

Rerefined oils are used oils reprocessed for consumption. Although rerefined or recycled oil is almost equal in quality to virgin oil lubricants, the consumer will have to be educated to eliminate the stigma of used oil.

DETERGENT OIL

Detergent oils contain additives known as detergent dispersants, designed to suspend combustion by-products and keep these byproducts from settling on engine parts. Automobiles built since about 1970 require a high-detergent oil, designated by the American Petroleum Institute Service Classification SE or SF for gasoline engines and API Service Classification CC and CD for diesel-powered engines.

Nondetergent oils are classified under API Service Classifications SA and SB. These indicate a straight mineral oil-type formulation and may have some rust oxidation additives added.