France has 4,800 miles of navigable rivers and canals, and French Country Waterways has a fleet of four, shallow draft canal barges providing guests a unique perspective of the French countryside, coupled with food and wines of one’s dreams, along with a hospitable, knowledgeable crew. With four distinct itineraries – Burgundy, Alsace-Lorraine, Upper Loire, and Champagne – a choice must be made. Or at least the order in which one partakes.

I opted for the Champagne itinerary in honor of two long idolized men. It’s my firm belief that Dom Perignon was one of the greatest men that ever lived as this Benedictine monk and cellar master played a crucial role in champagne production. Then there’s the undeniable genius of Louis Pasteur. In addition to Pasteur’s lofty contributions to medicine and public health – think critical vaccines and pasteurization – he has long been considered the father of wine science as the knowledge Pasteur conveyed to winemakers provided the industry, among other things, the ability to bottle the blissfully bubbly elixir without the explosions that once caused champagne to be called “wine of the devils.” 

A Navigable Country Home

For the Champagne itinerary, we were collected at a central Paris hotel in a Spanish Iveco 14-seat luxury vehicle with USB ports at every seat. Similar to a Mercedes Sprinter, only more comfortable, we were driven two hours to the French hamlet of Courcy. There Nenuphar, our charming 128-foot barge home for the week awaited, and the friendly bi-lingual crew of six welcomed us, naturally with champagne and delicious small bites. 

The Nenuphar has six nearly identical king cabins for a maximum of 12 passengers on two decks. The week I traveled, I was joined by two couples and two solo travelers, all American. Decorated in French provincial style, Nenuphar has a comfortable salon with books, binoculars, and daily international newspapers, and a bar with top-shelf liquors. Also, a pleasant, shaded deck with tables and chairs, where lunches were served, and further along the deck, bicycles were housed for guest use along the picturesque canal. The dining room always had fresh flowers where breakfasts and candlelight dinners were enjoyed and where the seriously talented, Burgundy-trained Chef Corinne Bostin shone to culinary perfection at every single meal. 

My stateroom had a beautiful carved wood headboard framing an extremely comfortable king-sized bed, frosted glass sconces, and antique brass bedside lamps on large nightstands with roomy drawers. Antique-style ecru-striped wallpaper graced the walls, and a good-sized armoire provided a hanging area and more drawers. A writing desk completed the space, along with plenty of both US and EU outlets, and included an additional four-port charger. Complimentary wi-fi on the top deck was strong and always available. 

The spacious bathroom had a granite-topped, carved wood vanity and gleaming hardwood floors. Marble walls complemented the antique brass fixtures and sconces. The large shower had excellent pressure and top-notch Lalique amenities. Thick, buttery soft towels and robes defined comfort.

Cuisine for Health-Conscious Royalty and Wines for the Gods 

Meals can best be described as if one continuously scored a table at a great, innovative French restaurant with excellent cuisine and service. Absent were dishes doused in heavy creams and laden with butters of yore. Instead, Chef Corinne ­– and her colleagues on other ships in the fleet – are focused on healthy, delectable French cuisine. 

Imagine perfectly proportioned, outstanding four-course lunches and dinners that inspire guilt, but in fact have none. What results is the culinary regime of one’s dreams, paired of course with the finest French wines, over half bearing Grand Cru and Premier Cru labels. Did I neglect to mention great champagnes?

During the course of the week, we had 27 different types of cow, goat, and sheep cheeses and 21 wines, and not a single cheese or wine was repeated. Equally impressive, in addition to well-known vineyards like Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Mersault-Charmes, we had several marvelous wines from smaller vineyards rarely available stateside, all selected to perfectly pair with Chef Corinne’s creations.

At each lunch and dinner we were Chef Corinne’s blissfully happy subjects. Lunches served al fresco included delights such as watermelon and avocado salad, baked hen, and quiche Lorraine with mini chocolate tarts. Another lunch started with fresh oysters – no doubt in the water hours earlier – tender grilled lamb chops, savory eggplant pie, and cauliflower salad. 

Dinners were in a word, magnificent, and during the week featured fresh prawns, goat cheese salad, sole in saffron with razor thin chorizo appetizers. Show stealing main dishes such as perfectly prepared almond crusted salmon in champagne sauce, veal filet mignon, duck breast in coffee-based marinade, bass fillet in a sweet-sour sauce and beef fillet bathed in red wine. These were accompanied by the freshest braised vegetables, warm breads from village bakeries, and cheeses so marvelous that even Napoleon would’ve joyfully wept. Indeed, one of the 27 cheeses we sampled that week was Epoisses Berthaut, a soft Burgundian cow cheese known to be his personal favorite.  

Desserts were likewise delightful. Perfectly proportioned, they included chocolate mousse with Baileys ice cream, apple tart, white chocolate cake with raspberries, and without doubt, the best mille-feuilles ever prepared.

As a corollary to these great meals and wines, another fantastic aspect of barge cruising is the ability to exercise as much or as little as desired. While the barge was moored, I ran every morning before breakfast, either along the canal or within neighboring villages. Once the barge commenced, guests could walk alongside the barge or take out one of the bikes and meet up with the barge at a lock further down the canal. 

Daily Excursions for the Curious Traveler  

Daily guests could join a curated excursion with our guide, Renaissance man Stan Fleury, who possessed more knowledge of art, history, architecture, and wine in his little finger than many PhD candidates do following their dissertations’ defense. 

The first day brought us to the Chateau-Thierry War Memorial overlooking the Marne River Valley and World War I battlefields of Belleau Wood. Designed by Franco-American architect Paul Cret, the monument was dedicated in 1937 and commemorates French soldiers and the 1,800 Americans that died in this region, including a mind-boggling 1,000 Americans who perished in one day, along with Teddy Roosevelt’s favorite son, Quentin.

Nearby, the 42-acre American Cemetery is hauntingly beautiful. Lined with 328 towering emerald Platanus trees and 4,000 rose bushes, white marble crosses and Stars of David mark the headstones of 2,289 souls, plus another 1,060 tablets representing the missing.

Another day brought us to Reims and its stunning 117-foot Cathedral where many kings were coronated and which contains not only marvelous stained-glass panes by Jewish artist Marc Chagall, but also a trifecta of panes depicting champagne production as the donor was a regional producer. A bronze statue of the formidable Joan of Arc also stands in the shadow of the cathedral she helped liberate. It was also here that Victor Hugo was inspired by a woman nearby who became the character Esmeralda in “The Hunchback of Notre Dame.”

In Epernay, Champagne’s international capital, we were treated to a private VIP tour of Moët & Chandon and its labyrinth of underground chalk tunnels followed by a tasting in the gardens of two vintages. Later we stopped in Hautvillers, dating to 658, and its abbey where Dom Perignon made his magic and where he’s entombed. 

At Ployez-Jacquemart, this family-owned champagne house now run by its third generation, commenced in 1930 by an architect and a winemaker on breathtaking grounds that now includes a B&B. This small producer makes 100,000 bottles a year and sampling several vintages and especially the 2015 Blanc de Noirs was a heavenly treat.

Finally, at Châlons-en-Champagne, this town of 45,000 contains the 12th century Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque Saint-Etienne Cathedral with stained-glass spanning several centuries, the UNESCO listed Notre-Dame-en-Vaux church and the magnificent 18^thcentury Hotel de Ville, where in 1921 the US Army’s unknown soldier was designated. 

The Lessons Learned

In all, Nenuphar traversed about 60 miles and went through 25 locks. By the end of the trip, I too had completed exactly 60 miles ­– jogging 24 morning miles and walking another 36 along the canal and through picturesque villages. While I’m not sure I would schedule an appointment to have my cholesterol checked the day after disembarking Nenuphar owing to all the wonderful cheeses, I was deeply moved by the glorious cuisine of Chef Corinne and all the magnificently paired wines and champagnes. I’m thrilled to report that, on returning to Paris, my scale however moved not one ounce. Resulting perhaps in the best French culinary and wine barge experience in the history of the modern world. 

Julie L. Kessler is a journalist, attorney, and the author of the award-winning memoir: “Fifty-Fifty, The Clarity of Hindsight.” Her work has appeared in several major publications, including The LA Times, The SF Examiner, The Asia Times, The Jerusalem Post, and The Honolulu Star-Advertiser, among many others.  She can be reached at Julie@VagabondLawyer.com.

On its maiden season in the Mediterranean, sailing from Barcelona to Nice over seven days, I ate, drank, and learned plenty about food and wines with experts both onboard and ashore. Cruising the coast thus became in addition to the cultural aspects, a gastronomic and oenological pleasure. 

A Yacht with all the Bells and Whistles

Since the ship only has 100 staterooms with a maximum of 200 passengers, embarking in Barcelona took less than 15-minutes. A welcome mat on the gangway stating, “Welcome Home,” was apropos of the feeling onboard. From the moment I set foot on the vessel until I disembarked, each one of the 117 crew from over 20 countries was kind, amiable, and sincere. More astonishing, within hours of embarkation, every crew member seemed to know all guests’ names.

Launched seven months ago, the 423-feet long World Traveller has a warm, nautical theme throughout and is decorated in hues of blue, with rich woods, and modern, comfortable public spaces. A great aspect of World Traveller is that everything was within easy reach. There are six passenger decks, but onboard time when not in one’s stateroom is spent on Decks 4 and 7. Deck 4 contains the main restaurant Lisboa and Alma Alfresco. Also Paula’s Pantry for delicious designer coffees and snacks, Atlas Bar Lounge for wines and craft cocktails, and Vasco de Gama Lounge for briefings and food demonstrations. The L’Occitane Sea Spa, Fitness Studio, Reception, and Boutique round out Deck 4, while Deck 7 boasts the large swimming pool, loungers, Jacuzzi, the Dome Lounge, and the inviting 7-Aft Bar, and 7-Aft Grill.

Well-designed Staterooms 

Nine categories of staterooms and suites ranging from the 183-square foot Adventure staterooms – great for solo travelers – to the 465-square foot Navigator suites. I stayed in a Horizon stateroom with 270-square feet decorated in shades of navy, taupe, and burgundy, and accented with gleaming woods. When lounging, a choice had to be made between the light blue velvet settee that had me contemplating the high seas or the comfortable club chairs to curl up with a book. 

A good-sized desk area with USB ports and outlets, stocked minibar, and most importantly, both a Nespresso maker and tea kettle complemented the 60-inch flat screen television inlaid within a marine fabric backdrop. Whimsical ceramic drawer pulls on nightstands centered the very comfortable bed with high count sheets. Another design plus for the klutzy among us is that all furniture edges are rounded. Ample closets and an in-room safe ensured comfort. 

The gray-and-white marble bathroom likewise had plenty of storage, shelving, and counter space. Textured, silver decorative sconces lent panache, and both sink and shower L’Occitane products were in environmentally friendly pump dispensers. The double-sized marble shower had traditional and rain shower heads. Plus unusual and fantastic for an expedition ship were built-in shower jets. 

Foodies Will be Elated

To set the tone for those who like to relax, room service breakfast is served “whenever you wake up.” For those who venture to breakfast at Lisboa will be greeted by a breakfast bonanza. In addition to the buffet with a fresh juicing station, fresh honey on the comb, all manner of excellent European cheeses, a plethora of nuts and dried fruit, house made granola bars, charcuterie, there’s a bakery section to make a carbo loader swoon. There’s also a full made-to-order hot menu with daily egg special and other delights, think tapioca pancakes with chia.

Lunches at Lisboa likewise a delightful culinary affair, though when onboard I often ate by the pool at 7-Aft. Fresh salads, burgers, and the all-important ice cream cart with creamy confections dipped cones beckoned.

On this voyage, Belgium born Michelin-starred chef Rudi Scholdis was the guest chef. Scholdis has cooked alongside Alain Ducasse and has fed Queen Elizabeth II and President Bill Clinton, among other notables. Scholdis now owns Amandine Bistro in Santiago’s Hyatt Las Condes, Casa de Amalia in southern Chile, and caviar farm Kenoz together with his caviar master wife, Jennifer Meriño, who was also onboard to educate us on all things caviar during demonstrations and tastings of these edible black diamonds. 

In addition to delectable 35-ounce Tomahawk steaks prepared in a Josper hybrid grill, mussels in white wine and wild jumbo shrimp – no doubt swimming that morning – sautéed lobster tails, and spinach ricotta ravioli with truffle sauce, Scholdis wowed guests with his signature dishes, like caviar-topped spaghetti.   

Nightly the menu changed – including German, Swiss, Portuguese, and continental fare – so food boredom wasn’t possible. One night excellent Indian food was offered. An added plus, an inspired plant based/vegan menu was always available from which I often ordered despite my carnivorous tendencies as dishes were artistic, satisfying, and delicious. 

Excellent wines specifically selected to complement dining also changed nightly. One afternoon, French Sommelier Patricia Hedge came onboard bringing elixirs from small, regional vineyards producing remarkable wines that generate 1,500 to 6,000 bottles annually. All were divine, though the standout was 2017 Cuvee Honorat Syrah made by monks living on a small coastal island near Cannes.     

Food, Wine, and Cultural Excursions

Excursions in every port added to my personal food fanaticism. In Palamos, Spain, right by the pier in a stone building is the Palamos Fish Museum, likely the only one of its kind in the Mediterranean. A short introductory film laid the groundwork of regional fishing in Costa Brava and what it takes to get fish to table with its mission to dialog about environmental issues to ensure fishing’s future. 

In Sete, France’s first fishing harbor in the Meditteranean, we walked to Les Halles – its grand food hall – for tastings. There, the freshest oysters from producer Simon Julien were devoured with crisp white wine and tielle– a local squid and tomato tart. The tasting ended with zazettes – flavorful, hard French cookies often dunked in the aforementioned wine. One must wholeheartedly admire the French for figuring out yet another way to enjoy white wine.  

Near St. Tropez, another excursion brought us to Domain du Bourrian. With 62-acres under vine on this 148 acre-estate, this winery produces 120,000 bottles of 100-percent biologically organic wines. The full-bodied vintages were deeply enjoyed with charcuterie and local cheeses.  

Thirty minutes from St. Raphael, in the medieval village of Roquebrun, St. Peter & Paul gothic Church built in 1535 was impressive, but my heart was stolen by Philippe Vienay, the hilarious proprietor of La Chocolaterie du Rocher. Here the rich, house made grand cru chocolates of one’s dreams are enough to swear allegiance to this French Willy Wonka.  

The Serene Sea Spa

The Sea Spa by L’Occitane was a huge surprise. Offering facials, massages, and targeted treatments, I was a bit skeptical as treatments on ships can often be lacking and overly expensive. Not so at the Sea Spa. Not only did I have two excellent massage treatments onboard – indeed one of them was delivered by one of the most talented therapists I’ve had on land or at sea, ­but the prices were the same as one would expect in any U.S. city.

Treatment rooms have dark blue walls and blue-and-white floor resembling the ocean and white caps lending a dreamy ocean escape. The adjacent blue-and-white Serenity Lounge has a large, infrared Sauna and impossibly comfortable furnishings in the sitting area reflecting another oceanic haven. 

Say Adieu to Weight Gain 

Eating – and drinking good wine – is pretty much my favorite thing in the world to do. As soon as I’m done with breakfast I’m thinking about lunch. As lunch ends, I’m contemplating dinner. Once dinner is over, I’m thinking about breakfast. Such is my world, but that said, I also like to fit into my clothes. 

Deck 4’s Fitness Studio is large for a ship its size and has all that one needs to counter the food and wine of World Traveller. Three-quarter windows keep it light and airy. There are two Technogym treadmills, a Technogym spinning bike, Technogym recumbent bike, free weights, bench, and stretching area with yoga ball. Happily, despite all I ate, on disembarkation the scale reflected the same weight as on arrival. No small feat. 

Whether you’re dreaming of Mediterranean vistas, talented chefs indulging you in their culinary visions, sommeliers sharing some of the best vintage finds, or simply want to be on a lovely yacht with some of the industry’s best crew, you’ll want to take an Atlas Ocean Voyages Epicurean Expedition. Then you can start plotting your next adventure with Atlas to one of the Poles. Happy travels!

Julie L. Kessler is a journalist, attorney, and the author of the award-winning memoir: “Fifty-Fifty, The Clarity of Hindsight.” She can be reached at Julie@VagabondLawyer.com. This cruise line hosted the writer, however content was not reviewed by it prior to publication and is solely the writer’s opinion.  

Some things in life take time to get just right. Indeed, it has been ten years since Oceania Cruises sailed out a brand new vessel. Patience is often a virtue and in the case of Oceania’s shiny new Vista, the first ship of the brand’s all new Allura class, patience paid off.

Completed this year, this 791-foot, 67,000 gross-registered ton, all-veranda ship has a 1,200-guest capacity and spans 16 decks. Vista departed Rome May 6th on its inaugural voyage and was officially christened May 8th in Valletta, Malta, by Archbishop Jude Scicluna, and “bristened” by Rabbi Marc Labowitz. Food personality and cookbook author Giada DeLaurentiis was named as Vista’s Godmother and pulled the ceremonial lever smashing the champagne bottle against the hull, while the legendary Grammy and Emmy award-winning musician Harry Connick, Jr. serenaded passengers and visiting dignitaries in a dazzling, pier side ceremony under an elegant tent. Passengers were then treated to a July 4th-worthy, harbor side fireworks display.

On this seven day voyage – which also marked Oceania’s 20th anniversary of operations – the ship was fully occupied, however due to Vista’s generous layout, it seemed like a ship with 700-passengers. That delightful sensation was supported by uniformly excellent service from a veritable United Nations crew of 800 from 54 nations. This reflected Vista’s stellar guest-to-crew ratio of 3:2.

Plenty of Public Space

The Vista has a comfortable, contemporary feel designed by Studio Dado that is modern – but never stark – and invitingly warm. The Atrium’s massive Czech crystal light fixture resembling a two-story flowing waterfall is breathtaking. Public areas are all spacious and chic with comfortable seating at every turn. Passengers are surrounded by clean lines, light woods, and a prevailing sense of panache.

Gray, blue, and white carpeted hallways are designed with geometric diamond patterns and fleur-de-lis style imprints to seemingly mimic life on the high seas. There are several excellent Picasso’s onboard, but also many other enormously talented, lesser known contemporary artists such as Cuban Miguel Florido, adding to a sense of vogue. Several landings have swirling, mesmerizing white marble sculptures making any kind of speedy stairway ascent or descent virtually impossible.

Sumptuous Staterooms

Vista’s all-balcony staterooms are generously sized, starting 240-square feet for the entry level French Veranda stateroom. The new category Concierge Solo Veranda stateroom – a response to consumer demand – measures a large 270-square feet with twin bedding. The Veranda and Concierge Veranda staterooms measure 291-square feet and the Penthouse Suites are 440-square feet. Oceania Suites contain 1,000-1,200-square feet, Vista Suites boast 1,450-1,850-square feet, and Owner’s Suites have a whopping 2,200 to 2,400-square feet.

Hanging my hat in a Concierge Veranda stateroom, I was happy as a clam. Decorated in a gray, taupe, and white color scheme with a 60-inch flatscreen television, it had a double seating area and marble coffee table. Also a small desk, plenty of strategically placed USB ports and electrical outlets, and stocked minibar. In room carpets are natural, un-dyed wool and thus hypoallergenic and fragrance free. The 7th generation Tranquility mattresses are divine and linens are woven with intoxicating 1000-count sheets.

The enormous gray and white Carrera-style marble bathroom had more than double the cabinet and storage space than in similar suite categories on this size of ship. The double-sized walk-in shower possessed intuitively controlled rain and standard shower heads, Bulgari amenities, and incredibly soft, single-twist, cotton-ribbed towels. Suites also have the most user-friendly climate control mechanism I’ve encountered anywhere at sea.

Delicious Dining

An industry first, Vista has one chef for every 10 passengers, and choices abound. In addition to Oceania’s signature restaurants, Italian Toscana, Pan-Asian Red Ginger, and Polo Grill classic steakhouse, the staple favorites of the Grand Dining Room, the Terrace Café, and Waves Grill, are now joined by three new stellar dining options.

The innovative Aquamar Kitchen is a healthy concept eatery with fantastic salads, poke bowls, avocado toast varieties, soups, wraps, healthy sandwiches, and burgers. The new Ember Restaurant is a cutting edge, creative, farm-to-table contemporary American restaurant reminiscent of Napa Valley’s finest. It has a gleaming open kitchen and also offers Cellar Masters wine-paired, multi-course, mouth-watering menus. Happily, a large bakery serving all manner of French patisserie and delectable quiches has been added to its excellent Baristas Coffee Bar, and of course, afternoon tea at Horizon’s is not to be missed.

Learning Experiences

Vista’s expanded Culinary Enrichment Program on Deck 14 is in an airy, light filled cooking studio with 24-stations where Executive Chef Kathryn Kelly and her delightful team teach informative, easy-to-learn courses and also host immersive, food forward, chef-led excursions in select destinations. During my enjoyable class, we learned to make Limoncello cake, feta-stuffed, prosciutto wrapped figs and naturally, a Limoncello cocktail.

At the Artists Loft on Deck 14, in another inspiring, bright space with floor-to-ceiling windows, talented artists-in-residence can help channel one’s inner Chagall. The current artist-in-residence – who will be onboard for the next four months – is Willard Andre Allen. If his name sounds familiar, this charming gent’s work graces the walls of several of Oceania’s ships.

If you are feeling at all cyber challenged, the LYNC Digital Center on Deck 14 offers several courses in social media photo basics, landscape and travel photography, and DSLR camera comprehension. Perhaps even more important, the Vista is equipped with Starlink, and during this entire voyage in the Mediterranean, my internet access never skipped a beat.

Vista’s well-stocked library, also on Deck 14, is a gorgeous, four-section area, and is a perfect place to learn about your onward journey or curl up with a good book. Comfortable club chairs make it hard to leave. In such an atmosphere, guests may disembark smarter than on arrival.

If you can tear yourself away from the Vista, since Oceania is destination-focused, at each port-of-call, there are plenty of excursion choices to meet guests’ gamut of interests, including food, wines, culture, art, and history tours, and are led by talented local expert guides.

Say Ahhh to the Spa

Vista’s Aquamar Spa & Vitality Center on Deck 15 is an oasis of calm with 11 treatment rooms, including a couple’s room and another with an unusual quartz stone-filled massage bed. The hardest part will be deciding what to select from a lengthy menu of available spa treatments. There’s also a medical spa offering physician-administered Thermage skin tightening treatments, Restylane and Dysport fillers as well as traditional Chinese acupuncture. A light filled beauty and nail salon and barber station with a complete service roster is another haven. The adjacent Spa Terrace has two outdoor Jacuzzis, a Thalassotherapy, jetted mineral water pool and luscious loungers. The main pool area on Deck 12 has the same comfortable loungers, plenty of shade, and two more jacuzzis.

Executive Chef Frederic Camonin and his team are very talented so guests may wish to visit Vista’s enormous fitness center on Deck 15. Fortunately, it’s so appealing passengers may actually want to exercise. It’s open 24-hours, has floor-to-ceiling windows, state-of-the-art Technogym equipment and weight machines, free weights, and a separate spinning room with Technogym bikes. There are several fitness classes daily including spinning, Pilates, yoga, stretching, and for those needing an extra push, a personal trainer can be reserved.

If you prefer paddle tennis, pickle ball, or wish to work on your golf game, there are putting greens on Deck 16. Whatever you decide to do while aboard Vista, or not do, you will be spoiled with good service, food, and destinations. Happy cruising!

Julie L. Kessler is a journalist, attorney, and the author of the award-winning memoir: “Fifty-Fifty, The Clarity of Hindsight.” She can be reached at Julie@VagabondLawyer.com. This cruise line hosted the writer, however content was not reviewed by it prior to publication and is solely the writer’s opinion.

For travelers who’ve already experienced Tahiti, Bora Bora, and Mo’orea, or for those seeking a deeper dive into the beauty, history, and mystery of French Polynesia’s most isolated archipelago, traveling to the Marquesas will leave an enduring mark on those fortunate enough to experience Henua Enana – The land of men.

Nearly 1,000 miles northeast of Tahiti in the central South Pacific, the Marquesas were settled about 800 to 1,000 years ago and are comprised of 12 islands with only six inhabited by under 10,000 people. Spanish explorer Alvaro de Mendaña gave the islands its name after his benefactor, the Marquis of Cañete. In 1879 France reasserted control over the islands and the Marquesas later became part of French Polynesia. The Marquesans are Francophones, and their native Polynesian dialect is not interchangeable with other regional dialects, though Marquesan has strong similarities to New Zealand’s Maori, Hawaiian, and Easter Island’s dialects.   

Aranui – The Great Pathway

Given the isolation of the Marquesas, the best way to experience the islands is on Aranui 5, a combination passenger/freighter ship on its 11-night cruise sailing out of Papeete. The Aranui is neither a cargo nor a cruise ship, but a vessel lending itself to an authentic adventure while providing indispensable services to faraway communities. In early days it was a schooner bringing goods to the remote Marquesas. Then backpackers joined. Today curious cruisers voyage in comfort with good food and wines as they head towards these mythical islands. What makes it unique is the confluence of sea, land, people, commerce, and ship.

The Aranui holds a maximum of 295 passengers in 108 cabins with 106 crew and carries nearly 3,200 tons of cargo, 740 tons of diesel, and essential commodities such as food, medicine, and building supplies to the Marquesas. Then it returns with local goods, mainly fruits, vegetables, and handicrafts, to be sold in Tahiti. On my voyage in early February, I was joined by 112 passengers, 31 of whom were English speaking from the US, UK, New Zealand, and Australia, 25 Germans, and the balance French nationals. All daily briefings were held in each language and on excursions, small groups, usually four, were given a guide fluent in that language.  

After a quick check-in, I was shown to my spacious stateroom containing about 250-square feet. Warmly appointed with Polynesian patterned pillows and a fantastically comfortable king-sized bed, I was taken aback by the beautiful floor-to-ceiling wood carved panel resembling a Marquesan tattoo pattern separating the sleeping area from sitting area that led to the balcony. There was a surprising abundance of drawers, storage, and counter space, a desk, and a vanity area with stool seating. Also, a safe, refrigerator, and 60-inch flat screen television with English language cable news, movie channel, and Marquesas documentaries. The good-sized bathroom had polished panel walls, ceramic tile floors, excellent water pressure, plenty of storage, and built-in hair dryer. 

Deck 2 has a laundry room, small fitness center, spa, and a tattoo studio with an expert Marquesan tattoo artist, Moana Kohumoetini. Several guests, including yours truly, tested Moana’s incredible skills. More on that later. 

Deck 3 housed the front desk, well-curated gift shop, and medical clinic. The restaurant was on Deck 4, while Deck 5 had a comfortable lounge, two conference rooms, and coffee/tea station. The Veranda Bar on Deck 6 kept guests pleased as punch during happy hours, while Deck 7 had another bar and swimming pool. Decks 8 and 9 have additional outdoor decks and Skybar lounge.

Two additional aspects of Aranui I found particularly pleasurable. The relaxation/deck areas, gym, and bars were available to both passengers and crew. And except for the French captain, physician, and nurse, and one Filipino engineer, all crew were either Marquesan or Tahitian. Working out with or enjoying a beer after hours with crew members permitted additional cultural exchanges and insights to this delightful experience.  

The itinerary – First The North

Given the long distance between Tahiti and the Marquesas, the first day after embark, and the last day before disembark, day stops were made in the Tuamotu Archipelago. On the outbound, we stopped at the rectangular shaped Fakarava, the second largest atoll after Rangiroa, and a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. On this sleepy slice of paradise, with literally a thousand shades of blue that inspired Henri Matisse, we snorkeled in bathtub warm waters amid healthy corals and marine life, drank coconut water, and strolled the atoll where the shortest part is only 100 feet across!

After an easygoing sea day getting acquainted with crew and passengers, we arrived in the northern part of the Marquesas to Nuku Hiva, the Marquesas’ administrative capital and largest island that’s 18 miles long and 9.3 miles wide. Mountains appear like razor-cut jagged edges in dramatic fashion with Mount Tekao at 4,000 feet, rising in glory like a verdant Phoenix. Docking in Taioha’e, its largest town, population 1,687, we disembarked for our first excursion, but all stopped to watch the carnival-like atmosphere of cargo being unloaded by cranes and crew as recipients either happily waited or claimed their goods from open containers and clipboard wielding crew. It was like Amazon of the South Pacific, Aranui style! This joyful scene would replay at every stop.       

After visiting the Catholic church with several intricate wood carvings – each village has one ­in keeping with Catholicism’s longstanding role in island life – we headed to the architectural site of Tohua of Kamuihei with its large ceremonial plaza where local dancers deftly performed. Across from a beautiful beach in Hatiheu, we dined at Chez Yvonne’s, eating raw fish bathed in coconut milk and pig from the traditional underground oven. It was here in the mid-1800s that Herman Melville fell in love and wrote Typee: A romance in the South Seas.

On 10-mile long and 6-mile wide Ua Pou, population 2,300, we took an early morning hike to a beautiful bay then jumped in the water. We did several hikes during the cruise in preparation for an arduous 10-mile hike at the trip’s end. Fortunately, right next to the pier where Aranui docked was the lovely Anahoa Beach. As the sun began to set, a riot of color splashed the horizon just as Aranui’s crew prepared a delicious Polynesian feast on an outside deck. Later as we gorged on French cheeses and macaroons for dessert, a star-filled canopy lit up the night sky.     

Arriving to Vaipae’e Bay on Ua Huka, population 705, was an incredibly unique experience. The passage is extremely narrow, and it seemed as though the Aranui was mere inches away from massive, jagged-edged rocks. Hardhat donning seamen exited onto flat barges to tie the ship on lonely pilasters on either side of the bay. In rough waters, these talented seamen used only their legs for balance and security. Passenger landing from ship to barge was quite spirited, requiring nearly a philharmonic-style exit resembling an E-ticket of yore Disneyland ride. One thing was certain, these seamen had saltwater running through their veins, and I would trust them blindly anytime and under any conditions.  

At the harbor, we were greeted by a charming bio-security dog employed to ensure rats remain absent. Trained in New Zealand in English, these pooches arrive here then become tri-lingual in their rodential pursuits. Known as the ‘island of horses,’ equestrian lovers will rejoice as horses are completely free range, even noshing on the grounds of Vaipae’e Church. 

After visiting a botanical garden and museum with outrigger replicas, watching some master carvers, and listening to an impromptu concert in Hokatu, our marvelous guide Toa took four of us up a stone road where we hiked up a valley zigzagging through a dense palm grove and finally up some stairs to the ancient temple of Meiaiaute – place of calm. Here on a low alter, four stone Tiki, present since around 300-400BC, including one that’s believed to be remnants of a Tiki of the Butterfly Priestess, the wife of famed Na’iki stone sculptor Manuiota’a, who died in childbirth. As if on cue, vini birds fluttered about. 

We then stopped at the infirmary, not because anyone needed the nurse, but because one passenger in our jeep happened to be the boat inspector from Nuku Hiva. Clipboard in hand, he surveilled the craft, and caught up on gossip by the exceedingly trustworthy coconut wireless; on islands, words fly far faster than a freewheeling, fatalistic falcon. Finally, I coaxed him away with promises of cold beer from the nearby general store. Back at the dock, after a priceless day, with ice-cold Hinano in hand, and two pecks on the cheek, we bid kind Toa adieu. 

Itinerary – Then The South

The oblong shaped Hiva Oa with 2,438 inhabitants, was the perfect spot for a 3-mile hike which ended conveniently at the final resting place of Paul Gauguin and Belgian musician Jacques Brel. Nearby museums honored both men on well-manicured grounds with large Tikis. Even though the Gauguin canvasses were reproductions, it was enlightening as the collection contained several detailed letters from Gauguin to his wife Mette, Van Gogh, and others.  

Later we rented a car for the afternoon and drove west to a secluded beach in Ta’aoa, then northeast through the island’s lush, verdant center toward Hanaiapa. En route we hiked in search of the Tiki Souriant – smiling Tiki. Amid fallen mangoes, avocados, and breadfruit, hanging bananas and papaya trees and mysteriously, a lone resting cow, we found a narrow two-foot trail, then inexplicably, a burned-out military tank. We then also found the Tiki with its eerily, goofy smile.      

We sailed the next day to Puamao on Hiva Oa’s northeast side to the most important archeological site in the Marquesas, Te I’i Pona. Here rests chief and great warrior Taka’i’i, the largest Tiki in French Polynesia standing nearly eight feet. Also, here lying supine is the complete Butterfly Princess carved by Manuiota’a in her memory after she was deified following her death. Today pregnant Marquesan women come here and pay respects.

Three miles across the Bordelaise Channel is Tahuata, at 23 square miles, the smallest Marquesas Island, with 600 inhabitants, known for intricate bone carvings. Hiking past a rum distillery to a secluded beach for a swim, we later entered a stone church with a marvelously detailed carved wood dais, sacristy, and Marquesan Madonna. 

Arriving at Fatu Hiva, the southernmost and most isolated of the Marquesas with 633 residents, we rose early to start our 10-mile hike from Omoa. The 20-percent incline for the first five miles was bearable since we had some cloud cover. At mile five Aranui crew had set up a sandwich station with fresh baguettes, brownies and mango juice; a South Seas-style Subway franchise with forever views.

Heading down the mountain towards Hanavave, a hundred shades of verdant jade complemented the massive baroque basalt mountains. These bore deep depressions giving the appearance of elongated Tiki faces carved within, while the highest points thrust pointedly towards the heavens. Amid palms and acacias, mango, lemon, papaya and grapefruit trees surrounded us in this fruitage Eden.   

Tahiti Bound

Following a relaxing sea day, then a day snorkeling the pristine blue azure waters of Rangiroa, as we headed back to Tahiti, it was time to visit Moana. Historically, tattoos have played an outsized role in Marquesan culture ­– indeed the word tattoo is Polynesian – and body décor was seen and remains, a degree of prestige. After providing him with a photo of a small map of Hawaii, he took 10 minutes to draw it on my inner arm, and another 45 minutes to tattoo, adding some intricate Marquesan motifs to its interior. It was virtually painless and beautiful. 

Thinking about the entirety of this incredible experience as I packed, two things became clear: the dramatic natural beauty of the Marquesas along with the many smiles and kindnesses of its people, including the Aranui crew, would hold me hostage long after this South Seas sojourn was but a distant, sweet memory. Second, I’m fairly certain I’d already become severely afflicted with the Marquesan Virus: a fascination with all things Marquesan and a burning desire to return as often as possible. ‘Ka’oha i te henua.’  Happy travels!

If you go: International flights to Papeete generally arrive late at night, so travelers will need to arrive a day or two before sailing and to explore Tahiti’s offerings, including the Notre Dame, Central Market, and beaches. On a secluded black sand beach, yet only 20-minutes from downtown Papeete is Le Tahiti by Pearl Resorts on Matavai Bay. Polynesian hospitality prevails in a picture perfect setting, with an enormous seafront pool, restaurant, fitness center and spa.

The Greek family-owned Variety Cruises, known for its small sailing ships of less than 72-passengers that sails Greece, West Africa, and Mediterranean destinations, in January commenced with two new itineraries in French Polynesia. To this end, Variety brought over its 150-foot, two-masted motorized sailer, the 20-year-old Panorama II, from Greece to Tahiti’s capital, Papeete. This was accomplished not by sailing it there, but far more eco-friendly, it was shipped on a float-on, float-off, super yacht transport vessel. 

The third week of January I sailed on Variety’s second Tahitian voyage, on its 11-day, 10-night cruise commencing in Papeete that was scheduled to sail the Society Islands and the lesser-visited Tuamotu Islands, including Rangiroa, Tikehau, and Makatea. 

The Ride 

Panorama II has 12 windowed cabins on the main deck containing approximately 100-square feet, 12 porthole cabins on the lower deck with about 90-square feet, and one slightly larger cabin, number A1, on the top deck with a separate seating area, measuring about 110-square feet. 

Though cabins are small by river or ocean cruise staterooms standards, they are slightly larger than live-aboard dive ships. Panorama’s cabins possess very comfortable bedding, an in room safe, mini-fridge, and sufficient storage space. Bathrooms have granite-style countertops, built-in hair dryer, make up mirror, and strong water pressure in the good-sized shower. 

The 49-passenger maximum capacity ship (we had 45 passengers on this voyage), had 20-person crew. The main deck houses the small bar, coffee/tea station, reception area, indoor lounge where daily briefings are held, and a small outdoor lounge area. Two kayaks, two paddle boards, and snorkeling equipment are also housed here for easy entry into the water. The upper deck has the dining room and main outdoor relaxing area with comfortable chaise lounges. 

All meals are buffet style, and served at set times daily, changing slightly depending on the excursion schedule. As the chef ­– and most of pleasant crew – is also Greek, there were often dishes paying homage to their homeland such as Greek salads, Moussaka, lamb, and fried calamari, served alongside chicken, salmon, tuna, pastas, and burgers. Fresh island fruit and good cheeses were available at most meals. Dress is very casual, and most wore shorts and flip flops for the trip’s duration. All specialty coffees – espresso, cappuccino, cafe au lait – and all wine, beer, and spirits, were all á la carte, as were excursions. 

The Destination 

In terms of eye candy, few places in the world compare with the South Pacific in general. Growing up in Hawaii, I’m no stranger to island beauty and warm, pristine waters. Even so, the mere mention of French Polynesia in particular, correctly conjures up ethereal visions of a heavenly paradise with far more than 50 shades of warm azure waters, colorful marine life, and kind, hospitable Francophone Polynesians. And did I mention the delightful French coffee and to die for baguettes at port cafes and restaurants?

One thing to keep in mind with sailing vessels like the Panorama is that due to their smaller size, happily they’re able to dock in more remote locations not available to their larger cruise sisters. That said, also due to its smaller size, any inclement weather will be felt since there are no stabilizers other than its sails. Thus, sailing in and out of Papeete harbor and between the Society Islands in January was rough going owing to the significant Pacific rollers rendering several passengers seasick. Though I don’t get seasick, it was nevertheless uncomfortable and difficult to sleep. During a few meals dishes and glassware crashed to the floor, but the crew didn’t skip a beat. 

Additionally, a significant northern swell caused the captain to eliminate entirely sailing to the Tuamotu Islands. For many passengers, this was very disappointing as it was the main reason for embarking on a 10-night, rather than seven-night sailing trip. Thus, if experiencing these lesser known Tuamotus are important to you, or if it’s a repeat trip to French Polynesia and you wish to go beyond the Society Islands, it may be best to take a seven-night voyage then fly onward to the Tuamotus pre- or post-cruise to ensure your arrival. 

The Itinerary 

Our first stop was Raiatea, 120 miles from Tahiti. Docking in the sleepy capital of Uturoa, I jumped on an excursion to Faaroa Botanical Gardens that resembled a horticultural heaven, with chattering Kingfishers, nearly extinct fruit doves, and endemic cicadas. At Taputapuatea Historic Site and Marae – temple ruins – the largest in French Polynesia and classified in 2017 by UNESCO, we were guided by Tihoti, whose full body tattoos were beautifully distracting. 

Nearby, the tiny, hibiscus-shaped island of Taha’a provides about 80-percent of Tahiti’s vanilla. Here a drift snorkeling excursion was particularly pleasant as a small boat dropped guests off in the water at the starting point, where we snorkeled downstream for about 30-minutes and then collected for a repeat spin.

On Bora Bora, known for its eyepopping overwater bungalows and dreamy white sand beaches, I took a cultural tour that circled the island stopping at several intoxicating viewpoints, a pareo making center, and near Anau, part of a bunker with cannons left by the US during WWII near the island’s highest point, Mt. Otemanu. 

During a Sunday morning jog, I passed locals wearing their finest floral dresses, haku leis, and flower encrusted hats as they made their way to church. It was nearly painful to jog by converted food trucks with the intoxicating aroma of beignets, sweet breads, and other local sweets. As I continued, fruit-laden mango trees teased me mercilessly with their perfumed offerings. 

To arrive at a stingray ballet and shark snorkeling excursion, we rode 30-minutes through Windex-colored waters. Plenty of three-to-six-foot black tip sharks and large rays frolicked about and happily, were thoroughly disinterested in making my limbs a part of their rounded diet. 

Our next stop Huahine, about 110 miles northwest of Tahiti, is actually comprised of two islands: Huahine Nui, the northern and larger island containing four villages where two-thirds of the 6,400 inhabitants reside, and Huahine Iti, with another four villages. The two islands are separated by French Polynesia’s longest bridge of 240 feet.   

Several gorgeous motus – small islands – some habited, dot Huahine’s eastern coast. On motu Murimahoa, we lollygagged in warm waters while our host prepared a lunch of ceviche with coconut milk and rum punch. 

Sailing on to Maharepa, on the north side of Mo’orea, I took another boat excursion, this time to near Ta’ahiamanu Beach, to see the famous spinner dolphins. Nature didn’t disappoint and the grace of these acrobatically blessed magnificent mammals is a sight to behold.

We then sailed further west on Mo’orea to nearby Opunohu Bay. Surrounded by dramatic jagged mountains and replete with picturesque small sail boats, it’s here where the HMS Bounty once anchored in search of breadfruit to carry to Jamaica, leading ultimately to the famous Mutiny of the Bounty. Oddly, it did not occur at nearby Cook’s Bay. Regardless of geographical misnomers and open rebellions, this is a bay of breathtaking beauty. 

Our last stop was at Tahuna Iti, a bird sanctuary supported by Tetiaroa Society, a stone’s throw from the famous Tetiaroa atoll, once a retreat of Polynesian high chiefs, then owned by Hollywood high priest Marlon Brando. In balmy waters, we traipsed the island’s perimeter where boobys, terns, and frigatebirds all vied for attention. This was understandably Brando’s slice of heaven.

Regardless of whether you opt for the seven or 10-day Variety Cruise itinerary, being in French Polynesia will likely result in prolonged feelings of happiness, muscle strain from too many high-fives, and an insatiable desire to loudly sing. Happy travels!

***

If you go: International flights to Papeete generally arrive late at night, so travelers will need to arrive a day or two before sailing to ensure embarkation and to explore Tahiti’s offerings, including the Notre Dame, Central Market, and black sand beaches. A lovely spot to hang one’s hat on a secluded black sand beach, yet only 20-minutes from downtown Papeete, is Le Tahiti by Pearl Resorts on Matavai Bay. Polynesian hospitality prevails in a picture perfect setting, with an enormous seafront pool, restaurant, fitness center and spa.