I have never seen anything like this Genoa! It is something indescribably beautiful, grandiose, characteristic … I really would not know how to start explaining the impression that all this has had and is continuing to have on me …

Richard Wagner in a letter to Minna Wagner, 1853.

Theroux Sourced from Steve McCurry’s photography blog.

Sometimes, the photographs I take here in Genova, are a simple celebration of being back in this city I love. It’s not always easy living here, without language, without anything resembling huge amounts of money, without family … but I keep coming back. My camera loves me for it. My photographer’s eye appreciates it too.

I find something of New Zealand in the sea and the hills. I enjoy the quiet kindness of the Genovese met along the way. And these days I am reading my way into their history. Steven Epstein’s book covers the period between 958-1528. Titled … Genoa and the Genoese, it captures something of the complicated and rich history of this Italian city that so few people I know seem to know.

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I was drowning in the winter grey of Belgium, missing my great big Genovese walks round the city, missing the exquisite espresso that Simona and Marta make, the focaccia from Panificio Patrone in via Ravecca, and missing the pleasure of finding just the right food supplies, in amongst all that is delicious, at Francesca and Norma’s shop.

In January I wrote: 11am, and I have walked around the old city, bought my pale pink flowers, eaten focaccia, had espresso. I have talked with people.  This place feels like the closest to home I have been while, as I have wandered outside of New Zealand these last 9 years.

The sky is a deep deep blue, the air is mild – unlike the freezing cold in Milano as I arrived yesterday, unlike the grey I left behind in Belgium.  People are out on the streets and, as always, they are talking to each other and greeting strangers.  Did I tell you how much I love this city?

I felt so very strong, walking the hills in a way that delights me. It’s my first time on hills since I was here last, back in November 2011. The flatlands of Belgium feel so different to this Italian city bounded by mountains and sea.

No photographs today, just this one from summer 2011 (yes, I was in Genova then too) … Today my hands were full of focaccia and pink flowers.  And my soul was singing too loudly to concentrate on pulling my camera out.

And yes, it is always this good to return.

“Ma se ghe penso” is a song in the dialect of Genoa. It has a central role in the city folklore and is commonly quoted as one of its symbols.

Its texts speaks of a genoese emigrant, who left his native city for Latin America when he was a boy. Now, many years later, he feels home-sick and dreams of ending his days in the city where he was born. In the songs he says “But, if I think of it, then I imagine the sea, my mountains and the church, the harbour and the lighthouse. I’m tired of hearing spanish words, as I was born in Genoa and there I will come back”. Not with standing his child’s opposition, he finally goes back to Genoa, with a few things.

Ma se ghe penso – Words of M. Cappello Genoese

O l’ëa partio sensa ûn-a palanca, l’ëa zâ trent’anni, forse anche ciû. O l’aveiva lottou pe mette i dinæ a-a banca e poèisene ûn giorno vegnî in zû e fäse a palassinn-a e o giardinetto, co-o rampicante, co-a cantinn-a e o vin, a branda attaccâ a-i ærboi, a ûso letto, pe daghe ‘na schenâ séia e mattin. Ma o figgio o ghe dixeiva: “No ghe pensâ a Zena, cöse ti ghe vêu tornâ?!”

Ma se ghe penso alloa mi veddo o mâ, veddo i mæ monti e a ciassa da Nonsiâ, riveddo o Righi e me s’astrenze o chêu, veddo a lanterna, a cava, lazzû o mêu… Riveddo a séia Zena illûminâ, veddo là a Foxe e sento franze o mâ e alloa mi penso ancon de ritornâ a pösâ e osse dov’ò mæ madonnâ.

E l’ëa passou do tempo, forse troppo, o figgio o l’inscisteiva: “Stemmo ben, dove ti vêu andâ, papà?.. pensiemo doppo, o viägio, o mâ, t’é vëgio, no conven!” - “Oh no, oh no! me sento ancon in gamba, son stûffo e no ne posso pròprio ciû, son stanco de sentî señor caramba, mi vêuggio ritornamene ancon in zû… Ti t’é nasciûo e t’æ parlou spagnollo, mi son nasciûo zeneize e… no me mollo!”

Ma se ghe penso alloa mi veddo o mâ, veddo i mæ monti e a ciassa da Nonsiâ, riveddo o Righi e me s’astrenze o chêu, veddo a lanterna, a cava, lazzû o mêu… Riveddo a séia Zena illûminâ, veddo là a Foxe e sento franze o mâ e alloa mi penso ancon de ritornâ a pösâ e osse dov’ò mæ madonnâ.

E sensa tante cöse o l’è partïo e a Zena o gh’à formóu torna o so nïo.

Translated in english is “But if I think”

He had left without a penny, it was already thirty years, if not more. He worked hard to put money in the bank and so a tomorrow to come back build the house and the garden, with ivy, with the cellar and the wine, the folding-bed on the trees to bed use, for to take us a nap evening and day. But the son would say: “Don’t think why do you want to return to Genoa?!”

But if I think I see the sea, I see my mounts and square of Nunziata, I see again Righi, and my heart is tightened, I see the lantern, the quarry, down there the wharf.. I see again at night Genoa with all its lights, I see the Foce [ river mouth ] and I can hear the sea so I think again to return to lay the bones from my grandmother.

Time passed, maybe too long, and the son insisting: “We live well, where do you want to go, daddy?.. we’ll think later, the journey, the sea, you’re old, it’s not convenient!” “Oh no, oh no! I still feel fit, I am fed up and I can’t stand it any longer, I am tired of hearing señor carramba, I want to return again… You are born and you speak spanish, I am born genoese and… I won’t give up!”

But if I think I see the sea, I see my mounts and square of Nunziata, I see again Righi, and my heart is tightened, I see the lantern, the quarry, down there the wharf.. I see again at night Genoa with all its lights, I see the Foce (river mouth) and I can hear the sea so I think again to return to lay the bones from my grandmother.

He left without many things and at Genoa he remade again his nest.

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Located in Italy’s sunny south, Puglia has a unique character and charm. The Italians who flock here in the summer keep this laid back playground of blue sea, golden sands and olive groves strictly a family affair.

During our stay in Puglia we met local people and they invited us to taste some of their traditional products. The flavors are unique, the freshness and the genuineness are incredible.

We started tasting the Burrata. Burrata, which means “buttered” in italian is a fresh Italian cheese, made from mozzarella and cream. The outer shell is solid mozzarella while the inside contains both mozzarella and cream, giving it an unusual, soft texture. It is usually served fresh (eaten in 24 hours), at room temperature.

The local man served us the “burrata” with some salad, fresh tomatoes and some crusty bread. When he sliced the “burrata” its cream flowed out. Its rich and fresh flavor are unique.

Then, we tasted the “Stracciatella”. Stracciatella pugliese is basically torn bits of mozzarella in cream, and forms the stuffing for the Burrata cheese. It is the most precious part of the burrata, its creamy stuffing.

Between a piece of burrata and stracciatella we tasted also a fresh “mozzarella campagnola” with some sun-dried tomatoes (pomodori secchi in italian) and “ricotta”.

Sun-dried tomatoes are most popular in south Italy, in part because the southern climate is more conducive to growing tomatoes and in part because there is a great production of tomatoes in this area of Italy, so is naturally to dry a part of tomatoes.

Then, we bought some fresh sea-urchins “ricci di mare” from the vendors along the streets. They are considered a delicacy and during summer period people collect them theirselves and eat them directly on the beach. When you open it, you can smell the fresh fish and its sea taste is great.

You can eat them in different ways: you can scoop out the rows with your tongue or using a small spoon or with the help of a piece of bread. Often people make also pasta with “ricci di mare” or risotto.

Stay tuned! We’ll post more about Beautiful Liguria meetings with other italian and international culinary traditions!