Orchid Plants

Brassavola Nodosa orchid

noreply@blogger.com (Atie) — Thu, 10 Oct 2013 03:18:00 +0000

Brassavola is named to honor a famous Italian physician and botanist, Antonio Musa Brassavola. This orchid is a genus that includes about 20 species, and has a close relation with the Cattleya family. The majority of Brassavola are epiphytes while some are lithophytes.

It is native to the tropical region of central and southern part of America including the Caribbean islands. “Lady of the night” is referred to Brassavola nodosa due to its intense fragrant at night. Some records show that Brassavola nodosa was the first orchid that has been successfully brought to and cultivated in Holland.

It is quite easy to recognize a Brassavola among other orchids. If you see a white flower with green colored, elongated and narrow sepals and petals it should be a Brassavola. The tips of the three upper sepals and two lateral petals are forming a pentagonal pattern or a star-shaped configuration. And if it spread a pleasant citrus smell at night, it is definitely a Brassavola orchid.

B. nodosa is a very easy orchid to grow, adapting to a wide range of conditions in cultivation. A large specimen plant may have dozens of flowers, making quite a display; but even a single flower spike is quite rewarding. It likes the same conditions cattleya and laelia orchids do, so if you can grow them successfully, this is a species to consider growing.

The most suitable temperature for a Brassavola to grow and bloom successfully should not be cooler than 55º – 65ºF or 13º – 18ºC during winter nights and between 65º – 75ºF or 18º – 24ºC during the day.

Light is the most critical factor in caring for this orchid. With sufficient light the leaves will normally produce red spots which you can notice above the green background of the leaf. If it does not show any red spot, then you should move your orchid to another place with brighter light.

Brassavola is a wonderful addition to an orchid collection but it often becomes unruly in a pot. Its thin pseudobulbs are topped with rigid terete leaves that are often pointy and sharp at the end. These pseudobulbs have a habit of growing every which way at random rather than the more controlled growth patterns of other orchids. They will happily crawl out, over, and around the side of a pot. In addition, Brassavola Nodosa can quickly grow ill in pot culture if the media becomes too sodden for too long.

Brassavola are generally a beginner's level orchid in terms of their difficulty to grow. This is mainly because they are more drought tolerant than many species and can handle more neglect than fussier species. Unfortunately, for such an easy orchid with so many great attributes, they are woefully under-represented in the mainstream orchid trade. Look for Brassavola orchids at specialty greenhouses, orchid shows or consider purchasing them online. Brassavola are fast-growing orchids and will quickly begin to yield divisions to increase your collection or make your orchid-loving friends very happy.

Potting and Media:

Brassavola adapt well to mounted culture and will thrive mounted on fern plaques or in mounted baskets. Basket-grown Brassavola can quickly outgrow their original basket and form a specimen plant that completely covers the original container. Don't bother repotting or remounting larger Brassavola, but feel free to take divisions and rapidly multiply your plant stock. If you're potting them in containers, use a standard fast-draining orchid mix, such as those composed of expanded clay pellets, charcoal and pine bark chips.

Happy growing!

House Plant Orchid

noreply@blogger.com (Atie) — Thu, 22 Oct 2009 02:45:00 +0000

The house plant orchid is among the largest and most highly developed of the plant families, with some fifteen to twenty thousand species.

A provident nature has lavished every means to insure the perpetuation of this favorite child.

She has provided the flower with all the charm and allure of a fairy princess to win insect vassals to perform the service of cross-pollination. Nature has decreed that the orchid should be dependent on some outside insect agent, and the resultant relation is a beautiful example of cooperation between the plant and animal kingdoms.

The highest means of perpetuation in plants, cross-pollination is necessary in all but a very few species of orchids. In the few cases of self-pollination the seeds are frequently infertile.

The Cattleya, favored by the florist and valuable as the parent of large and showy hybrids, is perhaps the orchid best known to the public. There are over forty species of Cattleya. In their native state the plants grow in thick clusters on trees—frequently mahogany or a type of acacia—and are so well protected by giant stinging ants that the only way to harvest them is to cut down the tree.

The Cattleya plant lacks beauty to the uninitiated, being composed of longish, rounded pseudobulbs, which advance rhizome-fashion along the surface of the potting mixture, and are topped by one, two, or three long green leaves of firm leathery texture. The average Cattleya 'puts on' or grows one new pseudobulb a year. After several new bulbs have been formed the old ones tend to lose their leaves and roots, becoming backbulbs.

These back-bulbs are frequently referred to as poor relations, owing to their habit of sapping the energy of the growing end of the plant. If severed and placed in a warm, moist spot they will usually respond by sending forth new growth and roots to start a new plant. A tiny swelling or dormant eye will be found at the base of each pseudobulb in a Cattleya plant. In proper time the eye of the youngest bulb begins to swell and break into growth, acquiring new leaves and sending out new roots.

A new pseudobulb is formed and, in a healthy, well-cared-for plant, each will be finer and larger than the last. In case of injury to the forebulb, one of the dormant eyes of an older bulb will break. From among the leaves at the top of the new growth the flower sheath will form. Very disconcerting to the beginner is the habit of some species of growing or 'throwing' sheaths at the time the new growth is made up.

This means that after the new bulb is completed there is a long period during which the flower sheath remains empty of buds, and the amateur despairs of ever having a flower. Some Cattleyas even have double sheaths, which also disappoint the eager grower. Finally, after repeatedly holding the plant against the light in search of buds, she is rewarded by discovering small dark spots at the base of the sheath.

At last the flower buds are 'set' or have begun to ripen. Species differ in the length of time required for maturing or flowering. The Cattleya is among the larger and showier of the species orchids—species meaning 'native' as opposed to 'hybrid.' Coloring ranges through all shades and tints of purple, from amethyst and violet to magenta and deep red. Brown, yellow, and green species are found among the genus. Many of the species have alba varieties, whose flowers are pure white with a touch of green or yellow at the throat.

Important among the Cattleyas are the labiata group, those possessed of a fine, large lip, which makes them valuable as the progenitors of commercially desirable hybrids as well as for their own beauty and prodigality. These labiates have some representative blooming, with trustworthy regularity, at every season of the year. The intermediate or 'Cattleya' house satisfactorily serves this group.

The genus Laelia, native to Mexico and Brazil, is closely allied to Cattleya, crossing readily with it to form the exquisite Laelio-cattleya hybrids. The plant is very similar in habit and appearance; the pseudobulbs are slightly more angular, at times quite square, at others quite flat. It has many aerial roots; the new leads break in more than one direction, giving it an irregular form of growth. Either the intermediate or cooler house serves this family.

The genus Brassavola is related to Laelia and Cattleya, crossing harmoniously with them to form the exotic hybrids Brasso-cattleyas and Brassolaeliocattleyas. The plants have small pseudo-bulbs, which are frequently compressed. The flowers, usually white, or greenish-white, are not outstanding except for the very large, fringed lip, a characteristic handed down to the progeny. An intermediate, or even warmer, house will serve.

The genus Dendrobium is prolific and diverse, comprising some one hundred species, which vary greatly in size and shape. It contains D. violaceoflavens (vie-o-lay-see-o-flay-vens), with sixteen-foot pseudobulbs, and D. Schneideri (sh'ny-der-eye or ee), measured in inches. It ranges from southern Asia, particularly the Sikkhim region, through Ceylon, Malaya, Siam, China, Japan, all the large islands (the Philippines, Java, Sumatra, Borneo), and even some of the small islands, to Australia and New Zealand. A single species has been found to adjust itself to entirely different places.

Members of the genus grow on trees, in the ground, and on bare rocks, through great extremes of temperature and elevation. Some have been found as high as 1500 to 2000 feet in Burma at 1200 F. The Dendrobium plant is unusual in appearance, being sym-podial, epiphytic, and bulbless, but possessed of heavy cane-like stems, which also produce the papery-green leaves. Especially in the deciduous types these canes store sufficient moisture and food to tide the plant over periods of extreme drought.

The genus is divided into deciduous and evergreen, which again divides into warm- and cool-growing plants. All evergreen Den-drobes (the name affectionately given the genus by orchidists) are handsome plants with their leafy, graceful foliage. They have cane-like stems, taking the place of pseudobulbs, and bear the flowers in erect panicles (clusters, as of grapes), singly at the nodes, or in drooping racemes (stems with flowers attached at intervals). Evergreen Dendrobiums may be accommodated in the warm house. Deciduous Dendrobiums are peculiar-looking plants, becoming dry and shriveled bamboo-like canes each year after the leaves drop off. Amazingly, and lovelier by contrast, the flowers bud and bloom from the nodes (joints) of these dry canes.

Deciduous Den-drobes bloom on the old wood, and evergreen Dendrobes on the new growth. They may be accommodated in the warm house and removed to a cooler spot while resting. The genus Oncidium is a very old one. It ranges from hot coastal regions to the cold of 12,000 feet elevation. It is native to Mexico, Central and tropical South America, and the West Indies.

It has short, thick pseudobulbs and slender, graceful leaves. Though the flowers are small compared to the Cattleya, they are a spray-type of considerable grace and charm.

The blooms are flat, of silky texture, resembling a dancing girl with wide-spread skirts and tiny waist. The clear bright yellow attained by some of the species is unsurpassed. An intermediate or cool house will serve. The possibilities of each genus are so fascinating that it is only with reluctance that we pass on to the next. The Cypripediums must be dismissed in far too short a space.

Williams has devoted ninety-two pages to this genus as against fifty-five for the Cattleyas and fifty-four for the Dendrobiums. The amateur can only be urged to further independent research. Botanists have lately decided on a complicated division altering the nomenclature of the Cypripedium, but for the present pur-pose all species can be dealt with under the old inclusive name. Cypripediums are both evergreen and deciduous. The deciduous groups are from South America and have chiefly a specialized botanical interest. boasts Cypripediums, but not many people are aware that the modest 'lady's slipper' and 'moccasin flower' are orchids and humble sisters to the regal Cattleya. Cypripediums are to be found in some form practically all over the world.

More showy, and adaptable to greenhouse culture, the tropical Cypripediums, denizens of the Far East, are handsome plants with shiny dark-green foliage. These warmer growing types have handsomely mottled leaves. They are the parents of the rounded-petal hybrids so prized by florists. Cypripedium in its tropical forms is a genus highly recommended for amateurs. It is gratifyingly prolific, easy of culture and adaptable, and one of the few that can be grown in a dwelling.

Bulbophyllum dentiferum

noreply@blogger.com (Atie) — Wed, 14 Oct 2009 08:33:00 +0000

What is Bulbophyllum?

Bulbophyllum is the largest genus in the orchid family Orchidaceae. With 2000 species.
The name derived from the Latin word bulbus (bulb-like) and the Greek word phyllon (leaf), referring to the pseudobulbs on top of which the leaf is growing.
The center of diversity is in the montane forests of Papua New Guinea and can be found in Australia, Southeast Asia, Africa Madagascar and in tropical central and South America.
Many species have the typical odor of rotting carcasses which attacts flies to asist in reproduction through pollination.

Bulbophyllum abbreviatum (Malaysia)

This species grows on tree branches of lowland tropical rainforest. The pseudobulb & leaf is about 10 cm tall with 1cm tall flowers that comes in a variety of warm colors. It is easy to grow and flowers quite often.

Flowers Tip for Orchids

noreply@blogger.com (Atie) — Tue, 13 Oct 2009 06:36:00 +0000

Orchids are a things of beauty, one of the most impressive flora you can have at home is an orchid. Because Orchids come from a very large family there is a mammoth departure in the different types of Orchids available on the advertise. Orchids are not the most stubborn florae to take nursing of, but they do neediness some awareness, you can have a significant realize on the orchids you grow.

Wild orchid is just a superb flower that everyone should own, a ferocious orchid has a unique look and form of tumor. Wild orchids have an amazing verity of species, each with its own striking character and pallor. Orchids in common and crazy orchids in particular require that you settle where you think you will place the orchids before you actually buy them, the custody desired for orchids strain that you present them with enough wetness and air spring, and there is a massive difference between placing an orchid at home or have a madcap orchid in your garden.

As a character who knows the importance of flora for stress relief and house decoration I can absolutely say with confidence the orchids supply abundance of pleasure just from watching them, even a role that is completely indifferent to plants will like looking at a thriving orchid, the sizable kind of the orchid family makes it almost impossible for the ordered role to get habitual with a kind of orchid.

Orchid had about 35,000 different species, originally this flower grow on plants and used them as hosts, this doesn't mean the orchids cannot thrive and grow lacking a hierarchy host. The orchid family, because of its diversity is an extremely adaptable flower, diverge to trendy belief, the orchids are a very well adjusted family of plants.

Orchids are "intended" to appeal insects for reproduction means, by getting the insect to land on the flower, it sticks some of the orchid "signature" on the insect and when this insect than plants the orchid it bares with it the markings of that particular orchid.

Orchids have a well documented story, because of the orchids popularity in almost all parts of the world, many printed books and articles had mentioned the orchid flower and the range of the orchid family in flowers. The earliest written mark of their presence if as Chinese and Japanese portrayal and literature of the circa 700 B.C. in onwards period the orchid was believed to have remedial powers and was used, by many cultures, as a character of a herbal or natural remedy.

Nowadays it is very painless and unfussy to get an orchid at the floweriest, most florist even have orchid flowers which they use in their flower arrangements. The orchids bought at a florist will not last long, but a fixed orchid could be a lot of fun to take bother of at home, you just necessary to find the right location for the orchid, with abundance of humidity and air spring, not exposed to curl and cold, there is an usual check and mistake chapter in which you discern what your orchid likes and dislikes, it is a very interesting person of communication between a flower and a human.

Enjoy orchids, they are a spectacular families of flowers!

Five Common Orchid Pests

noreply@blogger.com (Atie) — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 01:46:00 +0000

Insects and their relatives cause most of the problems for orchid growers. Some of them can even transmit diseases from one plant to another. This article will discuss five of the most common orchid pests.

Aphids

Aphids are sucking insects that are some of the most problematic orchid pests. One of the signs of aphid infestation is a collection of tan-colored skins on the plant. Leaves will also become covered in honeydew and bud and flowers will become stunted or deformed. You can simply brush them away or spray them off with water.

Fungus Gnats

Fungus gnats are also common orchid pests. Their larvae grow in potting media that is too wet, warm, or decaying too quickly. To control these pests, make sure you don't keep the potting media too wet and allow it to dry between waterings. You can also use the yellow sticky cards that are commonly used to control white flies.

Mealybugs

Some of the other types of orchid pests are mealybugs. They feed under bracts and on the roots. They reproduce throughout the year under greenhouse conditions. They cause the leaves to turn yellow and drop early. Severe infestations of mealybugs will weaken the plants and may even kill them.

Mites

Mites are also orchid pests. These microscopic animals kills the cells of the surface layer of the leaves. This causes the leaves to look silvery, especially on the bottom. There may also be yellow spots on the top of the leaves. Mites can severely weaken and disfigure plants. To combat mites, you should wash the plant thoroughly and wipe every leaf.

White flies

Some of the last common orchid pests are white flies. Like aphids, they are sucking insects but much smaller. An infestation of white flies can severely weaken your plant. They are extremely difficult to control under greenhouse conditions. The only way to control them effectively is to use insecticides.

These are some of the most common orchid pests. If you see signs of an infestation, you should do something quickly to maintain your plant's health.

Epidendrum X obrienianum - Butterfly Orchid Orchidaceae

noreply@blogger.com (Atie) — Thu, 08 Oct 2009 04:37:00 +0000

Epidendrum X obrienianum is a cross between E. evectum and E. ibaguaense, with a habit similar to E. ibaguense.

Blooming Time: Spring-Summer Dense cluster of vivid red flowers, each the shape of miniature Cattleya orchids.

Culture: Epidendrum X obrienianum is one of the best known of the reed stem hybrids. Reed stemmed orchids need an abundance of sunlight to flower, but shade the roots to provide a cool root run. Reed orchids require day temperatures of 60° or higher, with night temperatures from 50°-65°. During the growing season, which commences in spring, they require plenty of water and fresh air. Sufficient humidity must be assured to keep the plants moist, usually 50-70%. The rest period commences in autumn when very little water is required. The compost should never dry out completely. The compost should consist of bark, tree fern fiber and sphagnum moss. If the plant is grown in bark only, it should be fertilized at every other watering with a high nitrogen fertilizer. Feed plants in other media monthly.

Propagation: Epidendrum X obrienianum are propagated by plantlets that form after flowering.

Orchid Disease

noreply@blogger.com (Atie) — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 12:46:00 +0000

The damage that can be done by pests and orchid diseases in an orchid greenhouse is so appalling that no effort should be spared to prevent their initial entrance.

The first line of defence is a roomy, airy greenhouse, in which balance is scrupulously kept.

The grower who inspects plants frequently should be able to halt an invasion of pests before it gets under way, while the preservation of plants and the immediate segregation of sickly ones prevent pests and orchid diseases from gaining an easy foothold.

The successful grower is a good housekeeper—picking up dead leaves, removing dead plants, and isolating sick ones. Adequate bench room for each plant is also an advisable precaution. The greenhouse can be kept clear of pests and diseases only if the grower recognizes signs of trouble and is acquainted with effective means of control.

There are a few merely bothersome pests whose appearance need occasion no alarm, although the grower may wish to be rid of them. Ants and fruit flies are the most common members of this category.

Many growers dislike ants. In the jungle ants have friendly relations with orchids—stinging ants often preventing human desecration of the plants—but in the greenhouse ants are unsightly and unnecessary.

They have never been proved guilty of damaging orchids, but as sometimes they live in cooperation with the mealy bug and may assist aphis, it is just as well to prevent their entrance into the greenhouse.

Ant-proofing outside the house is the safest and simplest method of dealing with them. Fruit flies are often found in the greenhouse.

When it comes to orchid disease, they feed on decomposing Osmunda and, although at times difficult to distinguish from the scale fly, they do no harm. Routine spray will dispose of them.

Thousand-legged insects, mites, and sow-bugs are occasionally found in the greenhouse but apparently do no harm.

The tiny plant lice that thrive in decomposing potting materials are harmless though disturbing to a grower's sense of neatness and order, and almost impossible to eradicate.

Where possible, garden snakes, toads, frogs, and salamanders should be encouraged, as they feed on pests.

The coming of spring and warm days brings thrips, red spiders, and aphis. The maintenance of humidity in the greenhouse during this period will not only keep plants from being burned, but will also control these pests as they are susceptible to pneumonia.

Such control is especially important because these pests are extremely small and may do damage before they are seen.

Nearly all flower-lovers have seen thrips-marked gladiolas; the petals and leaves of orchids attacked by thrips are disfigured in much the same manner. Red spiders leave ugly rust marks, particularly apparent on leaves of the Cymbidiums, and they can kill Miltonias.

In the past, systematic spraying with rotenone, pyrethrum, or nicotine provided a fair control for thrips, red spider, and aphis. Some growers even burned nicofume (a poisonous gas, difficult to handle) two or three times a year. In spite of all precautions the pests seemed to persist.

Any form of extermination should be repeated at intervals, for, although the first application kills flying pests, the dormant stages are rarely touched and must be killed at maturity.

Different types of orchids.. see the pictures

noreply@blogger.com (Atie) — Tue, 06 Oct 2009 03:00:00 +0000

there are different types of orchids...

Orchids... pictures of different types of orchid flowers

noreply@blogger.com (Atie) — Tue, 06 Oct 2009 02:57:00 +0000

A yellow orchid

Orchids are easily distinguished, as they share some very evident apomorphies. Among these: bilaterally symmetric (zygomorphic) and resupinate, a petal(labellum) is always highly modified, stamens and carpels are fused, and the seeds are extremely small.

Cattleya aclandiae.

as per wiki, Orchidaceae are well known for the many structural variations in their flowers. Some orchids have single flowers but most have a racemose inflorescence, sometimes with a large number of flowers. The flowering stem can be basal, that is produced from the base of the tuber, like in Cymbidium, apical, meaning it grows from the apex of the main stem, like in Cattleya, or axillary, from the leaf axil, as in Vanda.

As an apomorphy of the clade, orchid flowers are primitively zygomorphic (bilaterally symmetrical), although in some genera like Mormodes, Ludisia, Macodes this kind of symmetry may be difficult to notice.

Three Types of Orchid Pots

noreply@blogger.com (Atie) — Tue, 06 Oct 2009 02:53:00 +0000

There are three common types of orchid pots. They include plastic, terracotta, and basket. The best type of pot for you depends on the potting mix, type of orchid, and location that you're growing the plant. You may also want to consider how often you will need to repot the orchid. Let's take a look at the three main types of orchid pots.

Plastic

One of the most common types of orchid pots is the plastic variety. Plastic pots have the advantage of being lightweight. Clear plastic is popular as it allows you to keep an eye on the roots to make sure pests and diseases aren't damaging them. Plastic orchid pots also retain water longer than clay pots.

It's usually best to use these pots indoors since the wind can easily blow them over if they're used outside. Also if you use plastic orchid pots outside, they will eventually be damaged by UV light. If you do want a plastic design for use outside, you should at least make sure it has a light color. Therefore, it won't heat up as much in the sun.

Terracotta

Terracotta or clay orchid pots are also common. These designs are much heavier than their plastic cousins. However, the added weight gives them more stability to withstand strong winds. As mentioned earlier, terracotta orchid pots lose water faster than plastic pots. Most designs only have one drainage hole located in the bottom, but some special designs also have drainage holes located on the sides.

Basket

One of the last common types of orchid pots is the basket design. These pots are best suited for sprawling plants with pendant flowers. The basket designs are usually constructed of wood, mesh, wire, or plastic. The advantage of basket orchid pots is that they allow air to circulate better than any other type. A disadvantage of basket designs is that the potting mix will dry out quickly. You will also need to place blocks in these orchid pots to support the plant.

Piperia candida or Slender White Piperia

noreply@blogger.com (Atie) — Mon, 05 Oct 2009 14:08:00 +0000

Piperia candida is also known as Slender White Piperia or White Flowered Piperia or Pearl Orchid. This terrestrial orchid can be found in coniferous and mixed evergreen forests. Flowers are often dense on one side of the stem. The white flowers number up to 100. The dorsal sepal has a green mid-vein. The white triangular shaped lip points downward. The spur is 2-3½ mm long. The flowers have a honey like fragrance. The 2 to 3 basal round to ovate leaves are 4-6 inches long. Leaves are usually absent at flowering. The distribution is from southern Alaska thru to California.

Height: 8 to 24 inches
Flower size: 4 to 6 mm wide
Blooms: May to August

Piperia elegans subsp. elegans or Elegant Piperia

Piperia elegans subsp. elegans or Coast Piperia or Elegant Piperia can be found growing in coniferous forests, on coastal bluffs, scrub and headlands. Synonyms are Piperia maritima or Platanthera elegans. The white flowers are dense and number up to 100. The sepals have green veining. The spur is 6-14 mm long. The 2 to 3 leaves are 12” long and may be absent during flowering. The distribution is from British Columbia thru California, northern Idaho and western Montana.

Height: 3 to 36 inches
Flower size: 5 mm wide
Blooms: July to September

Piperia elongata or Wood Rein-Orchid

Piperia elongata is also known as Long-spurred Piperia, Long Spiked Piperia, Wood Rein-Orchid or Chaparral Orchid. This terrestrial orchid can be found in dry and moist oak or coniferous forests in the north and chaparrals in the south. This orchid can live in sun or shade. Piperia elongata can occur with Piperia transversa. Flowers can either be densely or loosely spaced and number over 100. The green flowers have a triangle lip. The spur is 6-15 mm long. The 2 to 4 basal leaves are oblong-elliptic shaped. Leaves are usually absent at flowering. The distribution is California, Oregon, Washington, Idaho, Montana and British Columbia.

Height: 39 inches
Flower size: 5 mm wide
Blooms: June to September

Piperia transversa or Flat-Spurred Piperia

Piperia transversa is also known as Flat-Spurred Piperia. This terrestrial orchid can be found in partial shade to full sun in dry oak or mixed coniferous woods and sandy areas near coastal forests. Piperia transversa can occur with Piperia elongata. The white to yellow flowers are densely spaced and number over 100. The sepals and petals have green mid-veining. The flattened spur is 6-10 mm and twice as long as the lip. A sweet floral fragrance can be detected at night. The pair of basal leaves are absent at time of flowering. The distribution is British Columbia to California.

Height: 14 inches
Flower size: 3 to 5 mm wide
Blooms: May to Late August

The 4 Secrets You Must Know to Properly Look After orchid

noreply@blogger.com (Atie) — Sun, 04 Oct 2009 14:01:00 +0000

You have probably heard how hard it is to look after and care for an Orchid. Maybe in some cases that is true, however taking the time to find out more about them is your first step to actually understanding them. All you need is knowledge and a bit of time, then Orchid care becomes just as easy as looking after other sorts of plants.

Orchids are actually one of the plant worlds natural born survivors! You may be surprised to hear that but it's true. Why is this? Well they grow in the most unusual of places! Places such as the rainforest's, the cold permafrost of the tundra and sometimes actually underground!

It's quite a clever little plant; its seeds grow around a special fungus forming a happy alliance. The fungus gathers water and minerals for both itself and the orchid; in return the orchid shares its sugars with the fungus. And there they live in perfect harmony!

Of course this is in the wild so lets look at taming them for domestic life.

There is no reason why they can't be grown indoors, outside or in the greenhouse.

Even though it is quite a delicate plant it certainly isn't impossible for your to grow.

If you want to grow them inside find a well-lit room of the house, but somewhere where the sunlight won't be direct. You can use fluorescent lights to stimulate light as an alternative. The temperature should be consistent at above 60 degrees Fahrenheit all of the time.

You need to ensure that the orchid has moisture; you can easily do this by placing the plant on a tray of gravel or small stones. Ensure that there is always half an inch of water in the tray.

On a warm day let the air in, your plant does need the air to circulate. You could do this artificially with a fan if you feel the need is there.

You may want to grow them in a greenhouse, if this is the case they will need more water and ventilation. More watering is probably going to mean up to twice a week.

You might wish to check out the specific light requirements for the sort of orchid you are growing. Each variety is a little different, some needing shaded light and others brighter light to thrive.

If you would like to care for an orchid outside then look for a damp area with a temperate atmosphere. If you do that, in the very cold weather take them inside.

An easy way to manage that is to plant them in pots first and then bury the pots. You will easily be able to dig them up again when you need to take them inside.

Every orchid has its own characteristics and what works for one may not work for another, so sometimes it can be trial and error.

Stick to the main rules though and you won't go far wrong, correct light, temperature, humidity and water. Good luck with your orchid care!

The Red-Orange Ada - orchid

noreply@blogger.com (Atie) — Sat, 03 Oct 2009 16:58:00 +0000

Ada aurantiaca is one of the cooler growing orchids. The genus Ada includes only two species,which resemble the representatives of the genus Odontoglossum in appearance.

Ada aurantiaca grows form: Evergreen, epiphytische orchid.

Cultivation is not very easy-the plants are demanding in a similar manner to the cryophilic species of the genus Odontoglossum. A summer stay in overheated greenhouses is a sure way of destroying the orchid. the species is therefore recommented only forcultivators who are able to provide their plants with cool conditions, or transfer them to a garden in the summer. The plants thrive in semi-shade, provided that they get appropriate ventilation and sufficiently frequent misting.

Leaf type : Long Pseudobulben with 2 narrowly oval, central green leaves, 10 cms long.

From the cultivator''s perspective,it is mainly its richly colored flowers that are valuable.Its pseudobulbs are up to 4 in/10 cm tall,with 1 to 8 in/2-3 to 20 cm long belt-shaped leaves.The flower spike does not overtop the leaves and is arched , with up to 15 extraordinaryflowers deployed on it. All the tepals are thin and pointed and their orange-red color attracts attention from a distance.

Blossom: The blossoms are orange and appear in basalen grapes, 2.5 cms long, in the spring. The flowering season comes between January and March.

Origin: Central America and South America. The orchid's original home is in the midlands and highlands of the Colombian Andes.

Synonyms

Ada cinnabarina (Linden ex Lindl.) N.H. Williams ?; Ada lehmannii Rolfe 1891; Brassia cinnabarina Linden ex Lindl. 1854; Mesospinidium aurantiacum (Lindl.) Rchb. f. 1864; Mesospinidium cinnabarinum (Linden ex Lindl.) Rchb. f. 1864; Oncidium cinnabarinum (Linden ex Lindl.) Rchb. f. 186

Tips That Can Make Caring For Orchid Plants Easier

noreply@blogger.com (Atie) — Sat, 03 Oct 2009 15:10:00 +0000

Not very many people are willing to even to attempt to grow or care for orchids, as it can be a very daunting task, even for the most skilled gardener. Orchids are very expensive plants to purchase, and since they come from exotic places, can be difficult to care for properly in the more extreme climate of the United States, but it can be done. To really care for your orchids, you have to take the time to learn about them, and their requirements, so that you can provide them with everything they need to grow and be beautiful. You can find a lot of information on the Internet about caring for orchids, or may want to visit your local gardening shop, florists shop, library, or bookstore for even more resources. Once you have read up on caring for orchids plants, you should be ready to try your hand at it.

One of the first things you need to do is pay special attention to the type of orchid that you have, so that you can more accurately gauge just how much water and food it needs. Many people are not successful in caring for their orchids because they mistakenly give them too much water, which in some cases, can be even worse than not giving them enough water. Orchids do well in humid environments, but you have to make certain that you don't overdo it. Some types of orchids need extra water, and their soil should always be a little damp to the touch, such as the Miltonia, Cymbidium, Paphiopedilum, and the Odontoglossum varieties. You should check the soil for moisture daily in these orchids, and add water as needed, remembering to do so a little at a time, so as not to overdo it.

Other types of orchids do well and only have to have water about one time each week, and you don't really have to worry about keeping the soil moist, as they actually do better in drier conditions. If you have Vanda, Ascocenda, or Phalaenopsis orchids, you don't really have to worry about them as much, at least not when it comes to watering.

If you care for other plants, then you know that they require fertilizer to grow properly, and the same is true when it comes to caring for orchid plants. Your best solution when it comes to fertilizing your orchids is to purchase a brand that is designed specifically for orchids, and then make certain that you follow the package directions closely. If you give your orchids too much fertilizer, you could easily damage, or even kill them.

Just about all plants require light to grow, and orchids are no exception. To get those full, beautiful blooms, your orchid has to have adequate light. The amount of light that your orchid requires will vary, depending upon the exact type of orchid that you have. Cattleyas and Dendrobiums need more light than any other type, and thrive on it, so if you have these types of orchids, make certain that you have them in an area that gets lots of sunlight throughout the day. Phalaaenopsis and Paphiopedilums do not require as much light, and will do well in almost any area of your home.

There are ways to tell if your orchid isn't getting sufficient light. If you look at the leaves of your orchid, and notice that they are very, very dark green, they probably need more light. If they appear red, of have a reddish tint to them, then you probably are allowing them too much light, and should think of moving them to a better location. If you have a difficult time placing your orchids in a good spot, you can purchase a specially designed light, that can provide them with artificial sunlight, and in fact, many gardeners prefer this type of light, as they are in control of it, and can monitor exactly how much exposure their orchids get each day.

If you do a good job in caring for your orchids, they could live for many, many years. As your orchids grow, you will probably need to plan on repotting them about every other year or so. When you repot an orchid, it is important that you don't do it while the orchid is blooming, as you could possibly kill or damage your plant. It is important that you choose a pot that is large enough to hold the orchid and allow it room to grow, and that before you replant the orchid in a new pot, you carefully remove any dead leaves or roots from the orchid. Once you transplant the orchid into its new pot, you should leave it alone for about a week, and then carry on with your usual water and fertilizer routines.

You will find that caring for your orchids really isn't that difficult, once you learn how to do it properly. Once you have a routine down for providing adequate light, food, and water, your orchid could essentially live as long as you....imagine that!

A Guide to the Most Popular Orchid Species

noreply@blogger.com (Atie) — Fri, 02 Oct 2009 14:20:00 +0000

Orchids are beautiful plants that grow equally beautiful flowers. They are usually aerial plants which mean that their roots are primarily found in the air or attached to trunk of trees. There are many different orchid species and all of them have exotic blooms that may or may not have a fragrance. The colors that the orchid blooms have are spectacular and some flowers have startling color combinations that are very attractive and unique.

There are roughly more than 25,000 species of orchids worldwide. These numbers grow regularly due to the constant addition of hybrids and new discoveries. Most orchid species are almost always found in rain forests and tropical areas of the world. The orchids love moisture so they thrive in rain forests and tropical climates.

Well Known Orchid Species

Dendrobiums are among the more popular orchid species in the world. These species have a wide range of colors for their flowers. Some species have white flowers while others have purple or yellow. These orchid species can be found in most parts of Asia including but not limited to the Philippines, Borneo, New Zealand, Australia and New Guinea. The great demand for these orchid species has inspired hobbyists to create hybrids of the orchid.

The Cattleya is a beautiful orchid that can be found in some parts of South America up to Asia. These extravagant orchid species are very beautiful and usually bloom in small groups of a single flower to eight flowers per blooming season. The colors are from white to yellow to deep purple. The Cattleya is beautiful orchid that does not grow total but instead spreads out and is similar to the dendrobiums in some aspects.

The orchid species of Vanda are very strange looking plants that bear exotic looking flowers. Their leaves sprout from a single stalk and grow singly on each side. The flower stalks come from one of the leaves' base and these can contain from five up to twenty blooms. This orchid species can be commonly found but not exclusive to the Philippines, India, China, Australia, the Himalayas, Indonesia and New Guinea.

The three orchid species mentioned above are just the tip of the proverbial iceberg when it comes to the different species of orchids. There are man different kinds of orchids available and even more exotic ones at that. Some orchid species have even been discovered recently have been around for several hundred years in the rainforests. The beauty of these plants has endeared them to many people who strive to grow them in places which are so different from their usual habitat.

Dendrobium — Growing Cane and Dendrobium Orchids

noreply@blogger.com (Atie) — Fri, 02 Oct 2009 14:08:00 +0000

Native to Southeast Asia, the genus dendrobium is one of the largest of all orchid groups. There are about 1,200 individual species, and they grow in all manner of climates, from hot, wet lowlands to high-altitude, colder mountains. Growers usually divide dendrobiums into groups based on their growing conditions. All dendrobiums are epiphytes. Some are deciduous and some hold onto their leaves all year round. Serious collectors often favor the D. nobile, but the most common kind of dendrobium—the kind gracing grocery store shelves—is a hybrid dendrobium phalaenopsis.

Light:

These plants like strong, natural sunlight. They will grow in lower light conditions, but it is unlikely the plant will bloom well. The appearance of tiny plantlets on older canes (called keikis) often means the plant isn't getting enough light. These keikis can be potted up individually after they develop roots.

Water:

During the growing season, dendrobiums like high humidity and lots of water. As with all orchids, the frequency of watering depends on your growing conditions, but at least weekly is a good idea during the summer. After the growing season, cut water back somewhat (maybe every ten days), but do not suspend watering.

Fertilizer:

Feed heavily during the growing season with a weak fertilizer solution containing lots of nitrogen, or use a balanced fertilizer like Peters 20-20-20 at quarter strength with every watering. At the end of the growing season, reduce fertilizer by about half to help provoke a better bloom.

Temperature:

There are considered warm-house plants by growers, meaning they favor conditions in a warm greenhouse. The temperature for these plants should be above 60 degrees at all times, although experience has shown they can withstand a few nights down to 50 or so. But this should be avoided if possible. A slight drop in nighttime temperature will often stimulate a bloom.

Blooming:

These bloom for me throughout the year, depending on conditions. To help provoke a flower spike, slightly drop the water and nighttime temperature. Also, if a cane loses all its leaves, don't cut it off—they sometimes bloom from old canes. The flowers are long-lasting, up to six weeks.

Potting and repotting:

These are naturally epiphytic orchids that will thrive in hanging baskets with little or no potting media (in superb conditions), or they will do well in fast-draining media as a windowsill plant. These plants are shipped in quantity from Hawaii, Taiwan and throughout Asia, and some growers have started selling them grown in wood chunks. This is my least favorite potting situation because the plants are often top heavy and the wood gradually rots away. I prefer a mixture of clay aggregate, perlite, and coconut fiber. Repot at the beginning of the growing season when necessary.

Grower's Tips:

With the dendrobium phalaenopsis hybrids, think more of everything: more light, more water and more fertilizer. They are robust growers that send up at least one new upright can every year from creeping rhizomes. Don't cut off old canes as they will sometimes flower or produce keikis that can be potted up on their own.

Brassia Orchids

noreply@blogger.com (Atie) — Fri, 02 Oct 2009 09:16:00 +0000

Brassia orchids are epiphytic plants that can be found in some of the West Indian islands as well as some parts of America. Named after a prominent plant-life illustrator, the best thing about these odd-looking plants is probably the wonderful smell of their delicately fragranced blossoms.

The Brassia is nicknamed the Spider Orchid due to the characteristic shape of its flowers. Varieties come in pleasing pastel colours, accentuated with brown highlights which do make them look remarkably similar to their namesakes. Like virtually all orchids, members of this family are fairly easy to care for if you follow the tips below and try to accommodate for just a few simple requirements.

Pick a perfect pot

As with all orchids, the pot in which your Brassia is housed will have a huge effect on its well-being so choose wisely. Ideally, select a natural, porous material which will prevent the planting matter from becoming too waterlogged.

Good ventilation to the roots is also an important requirement so the container should have a well aerated base, possibly with slits in the sides too.

The planting matter should be of a type that is specifically formulated for orchids rather than just regular compost and will usually consist of many substances including bark and moss. You should be prepared to re-pot in fresh medium every two to three years to prevent root rot.

Get the illumination right

Making sure your plant gets adequate light is absolutely essential, but you need to remember that orchids are very prone to sunburn. Take care to protect them from direct, unfiltered sunshine by using a shade or curtain or simply just choosing your location wisely.

If providing enough illumination is an issue then think about relocating the Brassia or perhaps investing in a daylight simulating fluorescent lamp; fairly pricey but other plants may benefit from it too.

Turn up the temperature

Remember, these orchids originate from a tropical habitat so will need temperatures in the 65 to 75 degree range in order to survive indoors. Allowing a reduction in the overnight temperature to no less than 55 to 60 degrees will also be necessary. To encourage re-flowering, provide a similarly cool environment during the orchids resting period between early autumn and late winter.

Think before watering

Although this type does like a little more water than other varieties, you should still water sparingly and only after you have checked the dampness of the planting matter. Take care not to let this become over-desiccated; it should fell just damp to the touch before you re-hydrate.

Boost the humidity

This variety is used to steamy surroundings so create as much humidity as possible by positioning humidifiers or soaked pebbles close by. Placing the container on a stand over a tray of water is also an option as long as you ensure that the water does not seep into the pot and damage the roots.

Don't forget the fertiliser

Brassias require more feeding than many other orchid varieties and your plant will benefit from being doused with a weak nitrogen based preparation every seven days. You can go a little easier on the fertiliser during the plant's dormant stage.

Rest assured that it is actually quite difficult to kill an orchid through lack of attention as they pretty much like to be left to their own devices. Provided you get the fundamentals right, you should find the Brassia orchid to be a very low maintenance and a very unusual looking addition to your plant family.

Orchids are for everyone

noreply@blogger.com (Atie) — Thu, 01 Oct 2009 04:43:00 +0000

Not long ago, orchid growing was thought to be the province of the affluent. No longer is this the case. Anyone who wants to can now grow orchids. A great number of people have discovered this reality.

The two major divisions of this enormous flowering family are the terrestrials, or ground growers; and the epiphytes, which have aerial growth habits including aerial roots. Most orchids grown as house plants are in the epiphyte division.

If you go in for orchids, an early item is to learn the flower structure shared by all of them, and the names of the parts. Every flower has three sepals in an outer whorl, and three petals forming an inner whorl. One of the petals, more vivid and showy than the other two, or larger, is known as the labellum or lip. At center is a club shaped structure with the reproductive parts: the anther producing the pollen, and below it the sticky pistil, the female part. The pistil has a stigma and below that the ovary, which after pollination develops into the seed capsule, holding thousands of very tiny seeds.

Next you would learn about the two classes of orchid growth -- sympodial and monopodial. Sympodial describes those producing a number of new stems, which have flowers, leaves and roots, resulting in lateral growth of the plant over time. These have pseudobulbs. Monopodial describes those becoming taller each year with a single upright stem, lacking pseudobulbs but having aerial roots, leaves and flower spikes along the stem.

"Pseudobulb" means the fleshy stem arising from the rhizome or root, made up of thick, overlapping leaves. This structure is important in helping the plant survive poor conditions. In size it may vary from a foot high down to an inch. Each year a new pseudobulb is produced; this will be the source of a flower shoot, which may take several years to appear.

Popular examples of sympodial orchids are Cattleya, Cymbidium, Dendrobium, Paphiopedilum, Phalaenopsis, and Laelia. Examples of monopodials, less frequently grown as specimens, include Vanda, Angraecum, and Aerides.

Requirements of the different species vary quite a lot. As with any plant, your success in growing an orchid is related to giving it the right conditions.

Temperature

Orchids range in temperature requirements from those tolerating coolness to those preferring warmth. You can adjust conditions to a certain extent to satisfy needs of the kind you are growing. For example, in a fluorescent light garden, the upper shelves are warmer than the bottom ones. The closer a plant is to the light source, the warmer it will be.

Humidity

Orchids thrive on high humidity. One method of maintaining high humidity is to place plants over another container filled with dampened sphagnum moss or pebbles. Another way is to mist spray plants early in the morning, keeping water off the flowers. We have grown orchids in our kitchen in a large terrarium. Any sort of clear plastic covering to hold in humidity will be a help, provided it does not result in excessive heat buildup, as may happen in full sunlight. Guard against too much humidity, which can cause diseases.

Air Movement

Circulating air helps keep fungus infections down among orchids. A fan pointed towards the ceiling and operated at low speed is a method we use to keep air moving.

Watering

Orchids do better with underwatering than with overwatering. The potting medium should be dry between waterings. How often to water depends on the medium in the pot, age of plant, humidity, and temperature. In warm weather watering is needed more frequently. Plants in hanging baskets or pots dry out faster than those in standing containers. Plants in bark or fiber require more frequent watering initially than later on, until the medium settles down a little. Osmunda fiber retains water well, so needs watering less often. Small containers dry out faster than large ones. Water orchids growing on slabs by submerging the entire slab in a container of water. Always use water at room temperature.

When blooming begins, water needs rise. When blooming ends, reduce watering to encourage the plant to go into a rest phase. This is not applicable, however, with terrestrial orchids, which continue to grow. Their rest periods come during fall and winter, at which time watering should be cut back by about half.

Light

Most popular orchids do well with about six hours of summer sunlight or its equivalent per day, rising to about ten hours a day in winter or combined sunlight and supplemental light. Epidendrum and Oncidium species respond to high light intensities; Miltonia and Phalaenopsis do better with some shading.

Fluorescent lighting works well with orchids. If it is used to supplement natural daylight, two 40-watt fluorescent tubes are usually enough. If used as the total light supply, then use four tubes. The most intense light area is at the center of the tubes.

In operating a fluorescent light unit for orchids, whether it is a home made setup or a manufactured one, remember that the top shelves are the warmest and the lowest are coolest. It is important not to move plants once the flower spike appears, as this can result in crooked stems. Inexpensive timers can be used as we have done for turning lights on and off. If plants receive artificial light only, 12 to 14 hours a day may be needed, depending on the species. Group plants with similar light requirements -- whether short day or long day types -- so that needs of all will be met.

Containers

Orchids will grow in many types of containers. The epiphytic types are often grown in pots merely for convenience, but the roots wander out of the pot, hang over the sides or wrap around the outside. The terrestrial orchids are limited to pot culture.

For growing epiphytic orchids, you can use slabs of cork, hardwood or tree fern rather than pots. We prefer tree fern slabs, almost for sentimental reasons, as our life in Puerto Rico and Honduras accustomed us to that material and it was locally available. Slabs tend to dry out quickly, so use care to maintain high humidity.

Pots -- both clay and plastic -- are widely used. For heavy, large plants the clay pots are better suited as they give stability. For displaying on shelves, plastic pots may be preferable because of the lesser weight. Unglazed clay pots allow excess moisture to evaporate, a valuable trait for orchids.

Baskets of wood, plastic or metal, lined with sheet moss or coconut fiber, are all in use for orchids. For those kinds with large aerial roots, the slat baskets are particularly suited.

Potting Medium

The terrestrial orchids can be grown in soil, but epiphytic types cannot. Epiphytic orchids require a very porous medium to avoid the root rots that rise from too much moisture. For beginners, the simplest way is to use a commercially prepared orchid medium. Garden shops usually offer a number of kinds, including coconut fiber, tree fern in a variety of forms, fir bark, redwood bark, redwood inner bark, peat moss and others. Experience will help you in making a choice.

For terrestrial orchids, including Paphiopedilum and Cymbidium, make up a mix of equal parts perlite, sphagnum moss, osmunda fiber, ground charcoal and coarse peat. Sharp sand can be substituted for perlite. As you gain insight into the needs of particular plants, you may change the proportions accordingly.

Each of the potting substances mentioned has its advantages and disadvantages. Shredded bark is low in nutrients, and dries out quickly. Osmunda fiber, on the other hand, retains moisture well, but is difficult to work with. Some growers combine the two, to overcome their separate shortcomings.

Choosing Orchids

First choices are not easy, when you are faced with the countless number of kinds of orchids now available. I suggest you begin by evaluating your particular growing conditions, light sources and available space, and decide on an appropriate species on which to concentrate. This will narrow things down, and from there perhaps prices will be a guide. These range from modest sums to hundreds of dollars. For beginners the less expensive are the best investments. We have seen reasonably priced, large flowering specimens in supermarkets.

You can buy orchid plants already in bloom, or those which will bloom shortly after you receive them. There are dwarf kinds and larger ones, suited for different space conditions. Some species give flowers in clusters, others just one at a time or only a few. Some bloom twice a year, some once or even less frequently. Some bloom in spring, others in fall, winter or summer. There are new hybrids as well as standard genera.

Prune Your Orchids With Five Quick and Easy Steps

noreply@blogger.com (Atie) — Thu, 01 Oct 2009 04:36:00 +0000

It's very important that you prune your orchids once it's flowered especially if you want to promote new growth and have a plant that is healthy and repeatedly blooms. A large majority of novice orchid growers are nervous about the pruning task, afraid that they will damage the plant.

Pruning your orchid doesn't have to be a daunting task especially if you apply the following five steps below.

Step 1 - Timing Your Pruning Right

When you prune, it should be when the orchids are dormant and there are no more blooms. The best time to do this is usually during the months of October and November, mainly in early October to late November. If you postpone the job, you'll miss the window to get it done and your orchid will once again bloom but it may not allow for new growth.

When to prune can depend on the orchid variety especially with the kinds of orchids that flower many times during the year. However, if you are unsure of when to prune, do it during the months of October and November.

Step 2 - Identify Your Orchid Type

Different orchid groups show an individual uniqueness where growth and flowering is concerned. For starters, look at the phalaenopsis orchid variety. This variety will need to be pruned once the flower begins to exhibit signs of wilting. However, other varieties will have to be pruned when the stems turns brown. Make sure to have instructions on hand before you attempt to do any pruning. You can find information online or in your local greenery.

Step 3 - Have The Right Pruning Tools

When you are ready to prune, it's best to have the correct tools to do the job. The most important tool you're going to need is a pair of scissor style secateurs. This tool will prune the stem effectively without causing damage to the plant. Disinfect the secaterus by wiping them down with a dilute bleach solution. Make sure you wear sterile gloves to protect your skin.

Step 4 - Know What and Where To Prune

Before you begin pruning your orchid plants, you should know how to prune it. How do you prune your orchid? Start by cutting back the actual orchid branch where the flower stems instead of the cutting the supporting stems. Cut about a quarter of an inch away from the stem node. Be sure you take particular care with the kind of orchid you are growing. Certain orchid varieties will be trimmed differently from other orchid varieties.

Step 5 - Check The Orchid Roots

When you prune some orchid varieties, it's best to check the roots at the same time. Healthy roots will have a green or grayish film and look agile. If your orchid plants are brown, brittle and mushy, then you should cautiously do away with them to allow new growth to occur.

As you can see, it doesn't take long to figure out how to prune your orchid plants. All you need are sterilized secateurs to cut away the dead parts to give your orchid a new lease on life for the next growing/blooming season.

How to Plant an Orchid

noreply@blogger.com (Atie) — Thu, 01 Oct 2009 04:35:00 +0000

Orchids are one of the most beautiful and most loved flowers in the world. Because of that they are becoming more and more popular each year. If you have recently received an orchid of your own, you will not only have to learn how to take care of it, but also how to plant an orchid. The same technique that is used for planting an orchid will be used when repotting one. And since every orchid will need to be repotted every now and again, this is the information that every orchid owner will eventually need to have.

When planting an orchid (or re-potting an orchid) you will first need to get some potting medium. And no, the dirt from the garden will not do. That is the most common mistake that a lot of people make. They use ordinary soil for their orchid and since most orchids do not originally grow in soil, potting them in one will almost certainly kill them.

Orchids thrive when planted in a fibrous and porous medium. You will find them planted in coconut shell, cork, bark, or some other similar material. One problem with materials such as these is that they can quickly decompose. When this happens you will have to repot the orchid. And yes sure, there's nothing wrong with that in general, but if you repot your plant too frequently, it will not like it. Because of that, I would recommend that you visit a local gardening center and buy some pre-made orchid potting mix. This will most likely provide the best growing medium for your orchid and if you are a beginner that's definitely the safest thing to use.

The second thing you will have to choose is the pot. The style and color is or course up to you, but the size of the pot will have to depend on the size of the plant. A lot of beginners just want to make sure that the pot isn't too small, so they end up using a pot that is way too large. That is a mistake. The roots of the plant must be able to reach more or less all the moisture in the pot. If the pot is too large, that will simply not be possible.

The easiest way to get an idea of what the right size pot would be is to check out other orchids in a store or the local gardening center. Find some orchids that are approximately the same size as yours and you will see the correct size of the pot.

Now it's time to go to work. Fill the pot with orchid potting mix and make a hole in the center. It will be easier if you don't use all of the potting material at first. Filling a pot to about a half full would be a good start.

Now take your orchid and get it out of its original pot. This may be harder than it sounds. You will most likely see that some roots are holding on to the pot and you might have some troubles getting them to un-clung. Proceed slowly and carefully. Eventually you might be forced into using a knife to cut those roots that just won't let go. It's OK to do this, but try not to overdo it.

When you get the orchid out of the pot, simply place it into a new one. Fill the remainder of the pot with the rest of the potting material and tap it just a bit. You don't want to stuff the pot, but you also don't want it too lose. Now, you're more of less done. If necessary you might have to support the bulbs that are too weak to stand on their own. To do this, put a stake into the potting material (be careful you don't hurt the roots), and tie the bulb with a piece of string.

That's it. If you followed these instructions, you have just planted or repotted an orchid.

Phalaenopsis Orchid Plant

noreply@blogger.com (Atie) — Thu, 01 Oct 2009 03:34:00 +0000

The Phalaenopsis is an orchid that has been see by the majority of people because it is usually the orchid that is featured in photos of orchids used for home decorating. The decorative orchid plants come in beautiful colors with a classic beauty so that is why they are seen on so many magazine pages. Often it is Phalaenopsis that is the first orchid that many people see.

The Phalaenopsis orchid has a beautifully arched spray of blooms. You can buy orchids and they can be used for the following:

Growing orchids
Home decorating
Orchid plant gift giving
Collecting orchids

Cut orchids can be used for corsages, floral arrangements, and table decorating. There are about 60 true species of the Phalaenopsis, which are all very beautiful. This type of orchid is native to tropical environments. This orchid plant has been extensively hybridized. The hybridization of the orchid has provided even more of a variety to the beautiful Phalaenopsis orchid blooms. The Phalaenopsis orchid blooms varieties include:

Stark bright colors
Classic white
Jewel-like colors
Pastel shades

If you want a low maintenance, tolerant plant, an orchid is probably not the plant to get. Orchid plants have some special care needs. To care for the Phalaenopsis orchid plant, you will want to start by putting the orchid plant in an east window area. The reason this is necessary is because the orchid will scorch easily. Phalaenopsis orchid can be in any window that is shaded. Grow lights can be used to grow an orchid anywhere in the house. An orchid that is in a grow period needs to be watched the plant can end up growing too close to the light and becoming scorched.

Some orchids have a large pseudobulb to store water, but the Phalaenopsis orchid grows from a single stem and doesn't have a pseudobulb. This is not a drought tolerant orchid type. The plant will need to be watered regularly, about once a week will keep the growing medium slightly damp.

It is the beautiful and unique blooms that attract growers to the Phalaenopsis orchid. Increasing the amount of fertilizer before the orchid is ready bloom helps promote healthy blooms. The Phalaenopsis usually blooms in late winter or early spring and has long lasting blooms on a single multi-branching flower spike. During blooming watering can be reduced to every other week.