tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532Sat, 25 Feb 2012 14:14:27 +0000Basic Fragrance DesignVarious Aspects of Perfume, from History & Chemistry to Haute Parfumeriehttp://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/noreply@blogger.com (Octavian Coifan)Blogger1487125http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/http://creativecommons.org/images/public/somerights20.gifblogspot/CDyNhttp://feedburner.google.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-1387495589276384258Sat, 25 Feb 2012 13:40:00 +00002012-02-25T15:14:27.564+01:00 Since I first started this blog, the number of launches, both in terms of perfumes and brands, knew something really special. More perfumes, more brands, different prices, all with a different growth rate you can study alone with patience. In the past 2 years, everything changed. We are no more in a "normal" system, but in the middle of a growth explosion which means that everything doubles http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/CDyN/~3/u4E277toaL8/exponential-growth-and-change-in.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Octavian Coifan)http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2012/02/exponential-growth-and-change-in.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-5652903396178969727Fri, 24 Feb 2012 23:33:00 +00002012-02-25T00:33:07.578+01:00Press Release 4a edizione, 29 Marzo – 1 Aprile 2012Milano, Palazzo La Permanente Now On Air: Discover the magic of the brands exhibiting at Esxence 2012!Follow in real time the event For the first time in Italy, the leader event of Artistic Perfumery will have a dedicated web-tv channel in Live Streaming, so that the entire perfume community will attend "live" the four days of exhibition. A last http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/CDyN/~3/ew3c_xDtjbY/esxence-scent-of-excellence-2012.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Octavian Coifan)http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2012/02/esxence-scent-of-excellence-2012.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-7526747691679211711Fri, 24 Feb 2012 17:04:00 +00002012-02-24T18:11:05.319+01:00 While French perfumery retains both Fougère Royale (Houbigant, 1882) and Jicky (Guerlain, 1889) as the first modern perfumes, there is another one, much more intriguing and famous than both French creations, at least at that time when it was produced.Cherry Blossom was created in 1884 by Charles Gosnell (1853-1925) in-house perfumer of the old British house and was first presented to the public http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/CDyN/~3/hl9zS7HjXbw/cherry-blossom-gosnell-historic-perfume.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Octavian Coifan)http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2012/02/cherry-blossom-gosnell-historic-perfume.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-4379528575633230713Thu, 23 Feb 2012 13:29:00 +00002012-02-23T14:29:26.818+01:00Press release Décliné en version pour elle et pour lui, le flacon numéroté du parfum j’ai fait un rêve est désormais présenté dans un coffret en bois laqué, coiffé d’une cloche en verre.Nec plus ultra du raffinement, une recharge (120 ml) et son entonnoir sont nichés dans un élégant tiroir, offrant ainsi le choix d’utiliser le parfum soit en spray soit en splash.Cette œuvre d’art de la http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/CDyN/~3/UXdb9XUHiUk/jai-fait-un-reve-le-parfum-de-majda.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Octavian Coifan)http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2012/02/jai-fait-un-reve-le-parfum-de-majda.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-5471766676384888389Tue, 21 Feb 2012 07:08:00 +00002012-02-21T08:08:00.196+01:00Basic Fragrance DesignEvery ingredient in perfumery is a letter, a syllable, a word, an image. It has everything that characterizes a special ideogram as I said several years ago (a logogram). Its meaning is contained in "the alphabet of scents" and "the dictionary of odors" - their purpose for the perfumer is to offer definitions, etymology, history and various other elements of the Codex, they help the Work. In http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/CDyN/~3/X772qkBwsII/writing-perfume-letter-with-love.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Octavian Coifan)http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2012/02/writing-perfume-letter-with-love.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-528062258109738213Mon, 20 Feb 2012 07:08:00 +00002012-02-20T09:37:14.351+01:00In 2012, Roger & Gallet celebrates 150 years of creation. The prestigious house was founded in 1862 (April 10) by two cousins, Armand Roger and Charles Gallet who took over the business of Jean Marie Farina. Today, the house with such an amazing history belongs to l'Oréal. Unfortunately they have no in-house perfumer to bring back the glorious days of the house when its distinguished luxury http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/CDyN/~3/UyLahCajpUQ/roger-gallet-happy-birthday-150-years.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Octavian Coifan)http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2012/02/roger-gallet-happy-birthday-150-years.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-375648860952396469Sun, 19 Feb 2012 07:08:00 +00002012-02-19T08:08:00.597+01:00 If the feminine version of Black XS L'EXCÈS is anything but an appealing perfume, the masculine excessive creation is extremely good. The theme from the original creation Black XS, a great perfume I had the chance to discover in the lab where it was created many years ago, receives now a daring interpretation with a strong tropical pineapple note. Both acid, green, roasted and slightly caramel, http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/CDyN/~3/xA_UCaEVbWo/black-xs-lexces-pour-lui-paco-rabanne.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Octavian Coifan)http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2012/02/black-xs-lexces-pour-lui-paco-rabanne.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-6469168232145962431Sat, 18 Feb 2012 07:08:00 +00002012-02-18T08:08:00.304+01:00 The best thing I can say about the new feminine perfume called Black XS l'Excès is that I absolutely adore its merchandising props - the silver skull I wish to buy for my table, but it is not offered with the perfume.The fragrance has nothing special, its name is certainly a mistake. This flanker is far less interesting than the original Black XS, it is more mass market and unappealing, with a http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/CDyN/~3/DRemToPYLvU/black-xs-lexces-pour-elle-paco-rabanne.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Octavian Coifan)http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2012/02/black-xs-lexces-pour-elle-paco-rabanne.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-1821501207172573599Fri, 17 Feb 2012 07:08:00 +00002012-02-17T08:08:00.100+01:00It is said that in a huge French castle, where every tourist knows the rooms showed on a detailed map he can access with his i-Phone, there are still secret rooms. In these rooms, you can access through a spiral Renaissance stair, an alchemist hides himself from the world and prepares secret potions for those who know how to find him.Very few know the secret history of Gevaudan, one of the most http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/CDyN/~3/dhFS3bwoh3U/givaudan-signature-and-alchemist.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Octavian Coifan)http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2012/02/givaudan-signature-and-alchemist.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-5620666154618675669Thu, 16 Feb 2012 07:08:00 +00002012-02-16T08:08:00.916+01:002012 est une année spéciale pour la Maison Guerlain car on célèbre le centenaire de la création du chef d'œuvre absolu, l'Heure Bleue (1912), mais aussi 50 ans depuis le lancement de Chant d'arômes, première création féminine de Jean Paul Guerlain. Dans un article de novembre 1962, le lancement de la nouvelle création est présenté dans le contexte d'une guerre avec la concurrence, figure de stylehttp://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/CDyN/~3/X4LCL4jLzK4/la-guerre-guerlain-et-son-chant-daromes.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Octavian Coifan)http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2012/02/la-guerre-guerlain-et-son-chant-daromes.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-6056067424937456945Wed, 15 Feb 2012 07:08:00 +00002012-02-15T08:08:00.755+01:00Yesterday, when I was in Versailles to donate a perfume to the OSMOTHEQUE, I made an accident in the morning. Usually I do not wear perfume when I analyze old perfumes, but yesterday, unconsciously I sprayed myself with a huge dose of something very airy, extremely diffusive and with a secret name because it has not been officially unveiled. I can only say it is a perfume from Firmenich, a jewel http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/CDyN/~3/D_ukOZDuemk/firmenich-for-love-of-perfumes.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Octavian Coifan)http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2012/02/firmenich-for-love-of-perfumes.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-1975786101569534725Tue, 14 Feb 2012 15:04:00 +00002012-02-14T16:04:00.785+01:00Do you believe in Sun, Moon and Stars? I consider everybody must do a gift, a special one. Love is just a word in a dictionary unless you prove it is something more. This day is a special day and because we celebrate a form of LOVE invented by a British French perfumer in the XIXth century called Eugène Rimmel, I decided to give my own form of love. I went to the OSMOTHEQUE and I donated a very http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/CDyN/~3/I5LFV5tXa3c/valentines-love-is-meaning-of-perfume.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Octavian Coifan)http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2012/02/valentines-love-is-meaning-of-perfume.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-5509199273374161010Mon, 13 Feb 2012 16:32:00 +00002012-02-13T17:37:25.465+01:00Thursday, the 75-year-old Jean Paul Guerlain apologised profusely as he appeared in court in Paris on charges of casting "racist insults". He faces up to six months in prison and a 22,500 euro fine.Read the whole shocking story - The GuardianRead my story about HABIT ROUGE, an amazing perfume.http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/CDyN/~3/tU_46kTtQrc/jean-paul-guerlain-on-trial-on-racism.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Octavian Coifan)http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2012/02/jean-paul-guerlain-on-trial-on-racism.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-8811454838279964630Mon, 13 Feb 2012 14:17:00 +00002012-02-13T15:18:56.105+01:00 An unusual story of perfume, fate and love in Beijing, reported by ChinaDaily. "Perfume bottle collector Cui Shaosong repeatedly apologizes for the state of his apartment, saying it's not suitable for visitors. The dwelling, which is less than 40 square meters, is filled with fragrances and crammed with intricately designed cabinets. These warehouse more than 5,000 perfume bottles of about 200 http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/CDyN/~3/-GaYTIHcdW4/chinese-love-for-perfumes.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Octavian Coifan)http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2012/02/chinese-love-for-perfumes.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-6312826240135892122Mon, 13 Feb 2012 09:40:00 +00002012-02-13T10:40:04.414+01:00Le nec plus ultra du chic parisien, Peau d'Espagne was the most aristocratic scent worn the 1880's and 1890's. In my collection I have several Peau d'Espagne, already a generic name since the XVIIIth century, but the most beautiful are these two, created by Houbigant and Roger & Gallet. They come in an astonishing presentation trimmed with gold and with a red leather label. Houbigant, the oldest http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/CDyN/~3/Q0rOVyLSKXo/peau-despagne-roger-gallet-and.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Octavian Coifan)http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2012/02/peau-despagne-roger-gallet-and.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-7443665801633421907Sun, 12 Feb 2012 19:40:00 +00002012-02-12T20:40:30.916+01:00 A phrase in one of the works of Marcel Proust mentions a rather unusual combination for a salad - pinneapple and truffles. Both have to be of a certain type. The salad contains also other ingredients to enhance the note, for instance there is a type of italian cheese, foie de canard and even some sesame and a pint of cardamom. After the salad you serve either a cocktail or a strong black coffee http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/CDyN/~3/jztYdemzDF0/secret-scent-idea-for-this-week.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Octavian Coifan)http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2012/02/secret-scent-idea-for-this-week.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-1257832998745155856Fri, 10 Feb 2012 07:08:00 +00002012-02-10T11:07:33.654+01:00 In my catalog of beloved scents, I prefer to write on top 8 perfumes instead of the classic ten. This is because I cannot decide for a list with an end. It is more easy to add than to remove. But to these lists which are "official", let's call them my harem of perfumes, there are always other two perfumes to make the right number, at least hypothetically. One is the "Perfect Love", the other is http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/CDyN/~3/SoDL17uPvHs/scented-signature-for-valentines-8x8.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Octavian Coifan)http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2012/02/scented-signature-for-valentines-8x8.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-1435273148368046905Thu, 09 Feb 2012 10:50:00 +00002012-02-09T11:50:02.173+01:00The best way to say "I love you" without being caught? 88% of men prefer to buy a perfume or a scented gift. Perfume is so common today that it can pass unnoticed if you are shy. In other words, it is the perfect disguise for Valentine's for those who cherish the etiquette. Penhaligon's, the most British perfume house today has a special proposal. The Victorian floral SMS - say "I love you" with http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/CDyN/~3/ala6JingRsk/valentines-at-penhaligons-88-of-men-buy.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Octavian Coifan)http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2012/02/valentines-at-penhaligons-88-of-men-buy.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-1430638736136479703Wed, 08 Feb 2012 19:08:00 +00002012-02-08T21:28:41.662+01:00 This week I spent several minutes at Hermès admiring the new decoration with horses on the wall and the amazing patterns of the new scarves. People do not ride horses anymore today, but if you want to know what a true chevalier is, go to Guerlain and smell all the range of Habit Rouge - the classic EDT and the most precious modern extrait. If Voyage, the "horse" EDT from Hermès, is a creation http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/CDyN/~3/Rdn7X9RX5Dg/habit-rouge-guerlain-perfume-love.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Octavian Coifan)http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2012/02/habit-rouge-guerlain-perfume-love.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-131446142451752942Wed, 08 Feb 2012 07:08:00 +00002012-02-08T08:08:00.446+01:00Is Jean Claude Ellena forever lost in the maze of his own personality? He has a special gift to recycle formulae and had certainly a lot of briefs when he was not an in-house perfumer. Unfortunately, as a creator, he is extremely limited in terms of ideas. Compare his perfumes to Dominique Ropion, you'll see the huge difference. The pure perfume version of Voyage is definitively better than the http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/CDyN/~3/sbhMHQLpOhs/voyage-parfum-hermes-extrait-de-parfum.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Octavian Coifan)http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2012/02/voyage-parfum-hermes-extrait-de-parfum.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-7930237620900668710Tue, 07 Feb 2012 07:08:00 +00002012-02-07T10:35:22.208+01:00Karl Lagerfeld is the METRONOME of fashion. A second, an hour, a day, a decade? Time doesn't change if you don't count it. Today, fashion zeigeist in Metropolis is sehr schnell. It's 2012, after all! The MIRROR.A day with Karl as Metro's global editor-in-chief. From home, I take métro 8 to Concorde and then, sortie rue Cambon from the first line - the shortcut to fashion to smell the unscented http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/CDyN/~3/ImoVAcRD7nY/today-day-with-karl-lagerfeld.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Octavian Coifan)http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2012/02/today-day-with-karl-lagerfeld.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-637004793184707104Mon, 06 Feb 2012 07:08:00 +00002012-02-06T08:08:00.054+01:00Starting today, the secrets of the french kiss - a taste for perfumes, a scent of desire. With passion from Jean Paul Gaultier. http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/CDyN/~3/6MtsdEbj4PU/art-of-french-kiss-jean-paul-gaultier.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Octavian Coifan)http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2012/02/art-of-french-kiss-jean-paul-gaultier.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-7906889474333978160Sun, 05 Feb 2012 07:08:00 +00002012-02-05T12:22:10.586+01:00"L'Amour est ROI"Amour Amour This weekend I was in Versailles because Jean Kerléo organized a conference dedicated to the work of Henri Alméras, one of the greatest perfumers of the XXth century, the man behind the beautiful fragrances of Paul Poiret and Jean Patou.I will present my personal reflections and research about this amazing creator who signed the most elegant and fashionable perfumes http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/CDyN/~3/t5uUS5dD0fU/henri-almeras-story-of-great-perfumer.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Octavian Coifan)http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2012/02/henri-almeras-story-of-great-perfumer.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-833256189678019766Fri, 03 Feb 2012 16:12:00 +00002012-02-04T11:39:28.356+01:00 Today I entered a perfume shop in Paris and I was shocked. Miss Dior doesn't exist anymore. After 64 years, Miss Dior passed away. It was initially wearing the black and white pied-de-poule pattern, the fashion reference to the chess floor pattern of Christian Dior's first house, so fashionable at the beginning of XXth century. With Miss Dior deceased, the Queen was captured, the next move is http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/CDyN/~3/i-Zk3rwRSac/miss-dior-has-deceased-in-2012_03.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Octavian Coifan)http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2012/02/miss-dior-has-deceased-in-2012_03.htmltag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13571532.post-5482986195505788674Thu, 02 Feb 2012 13:39:00 +00002012-02-02T20:00:22.221+01:00 The most famous painting in the world has a twin. It is a contemporaneous copy of Mona Lisa and has been discovered by conservators at the Prado in Madrid, as it was presented during a symposium at the National Gallery in London during the Da Vinci great retrospective. This painting is considered a copy made by one of Da Vinci's pupils and it mirrors how the original was in the past, the http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/blogspot/CDyN/~3/ZkwFUrE2pW8/mona-lisas-perfume-lame-soeur-de-la.htmlnoreply@blogger.com (Octavian Coifan)http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2012/02/mona-lisas-perfume-lame-soeur-de-la.html