LifeSense

Rising from the Ashes

2012-02-16T18:42:00.000-08:00

Freedom Tower (One World Trade Centre) in New Yoik!

Amazing how time can drag on some days, some weeks, when you think the weekend will never come.

And then you look up, and 10 years have passed and you can remember some things like they were yesterday...I think 'September 11' is like that for most of us.

Time has moved on, as it must, and so here is the future, the 'moving on', the rebuilding of ground zero, in the flesh.

And it is a fitting tribute, a great comeback.

There are roughly 2 and half months to go until it hits its final height of approx 108 floors at 541 metres - which is HIGH!

It will be taller than the Sears Tower this time, making it the tallest in the US and 11th tallest in the world (built or Under Construction).

She is also a nice BIG girl, as in not spindly and insignifigant towards the top, but holding her shape.
And some of the best cladding anywhere.

So well done America - you may sing the Star Spangled Banner anytime you like from the top of this beauty.

All photos thanks to the guys on the 'Supertalls' thread on Skyscrapercity.

Bars in the Sky

2012-02-12T16:04:00.000-08:00

Rooftop bars or Skybars are one of lifes best...actual...THINGS!

These bars need to be 'open-air', or at least have an open-air section, to be considered in this, my own (very prestigious) list. There are plenty of bars high up in hotels and other tall buildings, but if they are glassed in they just dont have the swagger.
I believe Cloud 9 on top the Grand Hyatt (worlds highest hotel) is the worlds highest bar, although it is indoors.
If anyone knows different, please feel free to leave a comment!

Along with Beach Bars and Bush Bars, these Skybars combine to give you 3 reasons never to join the dark and shadowy fraternity that lurk on the fringes of our society.
That's right, the Teetotallers!

The highest rooftop bars in the world all appear to be in Asia, with Bangkok's Dome bar being the pick of the crop. It is on the 63rd level, with just ridiculous views. Scores full marks for design, open-airedness, and views, making it Number 1 on my list.

Number 2 on the list is the Skybar on top of the Traders hotel in Kuala Lumpur. On the 33rd level, with a pool and water features, beautifully designed; this bar scores off the chart for its views of the Petronas towers directly over KLCC park.
Just the coolest club to see and be seen in KL.

In South Africa, our highest is Randlords in Joburg, at a piddling 22 floors. Of course, it is not all about height. The position and 'open-airedness' of the bar count almost as much, and this bar scores top marks in both those categories, with brilliant views to match.
The fact that this bar is in the fast rejuvenating area of Braamfontein, and is such a surprisingly chic venue in the heart of big, bad Joburg, puts this at number 3 on my list

Cape town has quite a few of these bars, but they are all under 10 floors off the ground, so not really in Skybar category. The highest is the bar on top of the Cape Royale at about 10 floors, but it has beautiful loungers and a pool, so scores high there.

The Grandaddy hotel has a great rooftop bar set in the Airstream trailer park.
Yes, you heard right. Accomodation at the hotel consists of beautifully restored Airstream Trailers, parked atop the building!
The hotel and bar score top marks for originality, and the bar has great views.

I know there are hundreds of other bars on top of buildings around the world, and would love to hear about any and all of them, if anyone wants to tell me about them/pour derision on my choices/or just leave a general comment.

Franschoek

2012-01-14T03:58:00.000-08:00

Franschoek is an impressionist painting, a Mediterranean wine village transported to the fynbos fragrant Western Cape.
The skies here are certainly reminiscent of the south of France, hazy pastel blue above the peaks of the encircling mountains.
The town was in fact founded by French Huguenots, a proud history dating back over 300 years -

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huguenots_in_South_Africa

Today Franschoek is the culinary capital of South Africa, consistently peppering the top 10 best restaurant lists, and recognized internationally as well.
The town is beautifully preserved and restored, which adds to its charm.
There is history, depth and quality here.
There are alleyways leading to small wine bars, there are cobblestones. There are some of the most fabulous wine estates. Some of the best are right in town, which means you can stroll between tastings, from estate to bar to restaurant, no need for the boredom of a designated driver!

And all the while the staggering beauty of the steep valley enfolds you.

You can picnic on a white sand river beach here, you can lunch at Haute Cabriere or Le Petite Ferme high above the valley on the Franschoek pass, with the most stupendous views. Better yet, spend the night at Le Petite Ferme, and watch the African sun sink over a corner of France from your own private plunge pool.

The Bastille Festival here is legendary and growing into a must-attend event. It runs for a week and is a blast - from street bars to refined wine evenings to all-nighters, from moneyed wine buffs and tourists to university students partying like ther is no tomorrow. Always sold out and no wonder.

All this within 50 minutes of Cape Town.
Spoilt, I tell you!

Check the tourism website for more -

http://www.franschhoek.org.za/

2012

2012-01-03T16:38:00.000-08:00

This year feels special already.
Different.
I feel big things for this year - as in planetary big, possibly Galactic.
Good or Bad, we don't know yet, although almost certainly there will be both.

This year I think we will see conflict in the Korean peninsula, which will affect the course of our human history significantly.
Ok, yes, Kim Jung Un was in my dream last night, but it's not just that...I mean, who would base humanity-changing predictions based on one dream?

I see massive news coming from the space probes out there, and from the earth based detection equipment.
Again, that might just be hope - there is nowhere left on this planet where you are truly out of contact. Even a camel trek to the Tibesti massif can be Facebooked and twitted and satellite tracked every step of the way.

The balance of power will shift even more dramatically to the emerging nations, South Africa included.
I see some cities abandoned as natural events continue to remind us of our human frailty.
I see Jaques Kallis finally being cemented as one of the all time greats, and absolutely the greatest all rounder in history.
I hope District 10 will be even better than District 9.

For myself, I see tremendous success, adulation, monetary reward and an exponential increase in handsomeness and AWESOMENESS!
Dream, prediction - same, same..!

Some thoughts on wine

2011-11-26T03:29:00.000-08:00

The waitress could not open the screw cap wine I brought to the Thai place tonight, it was too tight.
Actually, it had a little ding in it, which meant the seal was broken and it was a bit oxidized.
Thing is, after all the hype about cork, spoilage rates are almost the same for screw cap vs cork - so it was all marketing horseshit from the start.
Now people are all ' Oh, I prefer screw cap because *insert what the screw cap marketing people told me*.

Cork is one of the truly organic, sustainable industries left on this earth.
We used to take the odd bottle that was no good back to the store, and they would usually give you two bottles back as a thank you...good, healthy, human interaction.
Not to mention the cork oak forests of southern Europe, harvested only once every twelve years, wild forest left to the lynx and hare and boar and fox...now theatened with felling because some marketing campaign has told us that screw caps are the way to go.

Poppycock,I tell you...

Anyway, my 3 current favorites -

Rough Diamond - red blend by Buitenverwachting.
Holy Smokes!
What a wine, what a man's wine this is!
Made to commemorate the movie Blood Diamond (some of which was shot on the property), it is big, bursting out of your mouth with power drenched layers of fruit and smoke and alcohol...just superb.
If you are a beer drinker and you think wine is for nancies, try this! Although you will be hard pressed to find any left...

In Vitro - Spanish Tempranillo/Merlot blend, a quaffer really, but luscious without being sweet. Friendly enough for asian food.

M.Chapotier - Cotes du Rhone...actually, all his wines are on my list. Spicy, tangy, delicious fruit but no sugar, a stylish dryness that just takes you to Avignon.

Interesting note - the winemaker is buddies with Stevie Wonder, so you can always tell his wines apart because of the braille on the label!

Check them out next time you are having a browse.
And let me know if Buitenverwachting have any Rough Diamond left..!

JUNGLE JIM Pulp fiction magazine

2011-11-22T17:24:00.000-08:00

This new magazine has been rated one of the 20 Best reasons to be in South Africa right now!

http://www.visi.co.za/content/article/1257/wallpaper-loves-south-africa

Which is pretty awesome...check it out at good bookshops in Cape Town CBD, the Book Shoppe in Tokai, or at Wolves Cafe in Joburg.

Jungle Jim Magazine

JUNGLE JIM 8 IS OUT NOW!

HORROR! GHOSTS! GUNS! MARRIAGE!

THIS ISSUE: Horror on a Spanish Prison Island! Ghosts in Cape Town! Violence in Johannesburg! And the Complete Guide to Make a Man Yours!

7 Wonders announced...

2011-11-13T18:15:00.000-08:00

Table Mountain is a Wonder!

Clifton 4th Beach with Table Mountain and the cable station looking on.

The voting has closed for the new 7 Wonders of the World.

Table Mountain is one of the 7, which is great news for Cape Town, in terms of marketing and tourism.

Hoerikwaggo - The Mountain of the Sea. This is what the San named the mountain - and you can see why...

Most people will realize that this 'list' is hardly definitive, that it could actually be a list of 500 wonders of the world, and not just 7, that there are plenty of eye-popping and mind boggling natural entities on this planet that missed out on being named a World Wonder.

Kilimanjaro vs Table Mountain? Victoria Falls vs Iguazu Falls?

They are all awe-inspiring.

City in the wilderness!

But for better or for worse, the New 7 Wonders are now a reality, and all 7 are exceptional.

Here is to using this accolade for the good of the country, for job creation - for the benefit of the people that voted for their mountain and live in the presence of its magnificence, and for the visitors that travel from afar to see it.

World Wonders?

2011-11-07T17:29:00.000-08:00

With the voting for the 'New 7 Wonders of the World' about to close and the final 7 chosen, it is interesting to see which candidates did not make it.
In fact, there are thousands all over the world that are barely known, that were never even going to make it onto the longlist.
Not that this makes them any less spectacular, or deserving. If anything, perhaps their anonymity will preserve their quiet majesty and their secrets.
Perhaps in years to come they will show us the folly of compiling lists, of trying to place these magnificent natural entities into human categories, into logical and clinical order.
After all, it's not as if we actually own them. We aren't older, as big, as beautiful and certainly not wiser than Mother Earth.
We are here for a good time, not a long time, as the saying goes, so lets just enjoy them!

Here is one which got away.

The Blyde River Canyon in the far North of South Africa is the worlds largest Green Canyon, and the third largest overall after the Grand Canyon, and Namibia's Fish River Canyon.

The canyon has the worlds second largest TUFA waterfall - can you see the face?

As well as myriad African wildlife and an incredible concentration of bird species, there are also the Bourke's luck potholes...

[All images from Wikipedia]

The canyon is encompassed in the Blyde River Canyon Nature reserve -

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blyde_River_Canyon_Nature_Reserve

For more on this wonder of Africa, see the wiki site -

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blyde_River_Canyon

GO! Magazine rocks!

2011-10-30T19:17:00.000-07:00

The November issue of GO! has a full account of my trip into Die Hel, with great photos. Also, the stuff on Angola is amazing - that country is opening up and just booming.
For anyone who hasn't seen a current photo of Luanda, you will be stunned at what the city looks like now. Just shows you, never say never - just 5 years ago Angola was a disaster zone, now it has beach clubs and shiny buildings so that it resembles Tel Aviv!

Go to www.gomag.co.za for more.

CAPE TOWN - World Design Capital 2014

2011-10-25T23:55:00.000-07:00

This is a big deal!

Fantastic news for Cape Town, continuing the momentum created by the hosting of the World Cup.
The first African City to be awarded the honour, and really, when you look at the competition and previous winners - Torino, Seoul and Helsinki and the short-listed cities vying for 2014, Dublin and Bilbao - it really vaults us into exalted company.

Check out the official bid website for more -

http://www.capetown2014.co.za/

Platteklip Gorge

2011-08-10T03:30:00.000-07:00

Staggeringly beautiful weather we are having in Cape Town at the moment.

Global warming? Who cares, if winter is this good!

No caption required

Went for a run up Platteklip Gorge yesterday.

It is a steep and unrelenting climb, but luckily the views are so good, there is an excuse to stop and gawk back down the gorge every 5 minutes.

There were plenty of tourists on the hike, mostly Americans and Dutch from what I could tell.

They seemed universally dumbfounded that such a wilderness could exist right next to the city.

Mountains are deceptive the world over – and none more so than Table Mountain.

Platteklip is one of the safest routes to the top – there are many others that can test the toughest adventurers amongst us.

Nearing the top of the gorge

It is only about half an hour into the climb up Platteklip that you realize this is no casual stroll. The path is well maintained, but there are very steep sections, edges with drop offs, loose boulders and lots of pretty but pointy plantlife.

City view - note the stadium top left

The weather at the top, 1000 meters above the city, is often completely different.

Just the other day it snowed at the top Cable station, whilst down in the city it was a very reasonable 16c!

That is a major change – and anyone sweating their way up the mountain in a t-shirt would have got a very cold greeting at the top. With the cloud and mist and 0c temperature, danger lurks for the unprepared.

Camps Bay

The other side - India Venster route down to the Atlantic - only for those with no fear of clinging to cliffs

Yesterday a lady broke her leg on the way down.

A chopper hovered in the gorge, guiding the mountain rescue guys.

Rescue Helicopter

The rescue guys were with her as I made my way past, and the sun had already set.

Luckily she had a friend with her who called for help, or she may have been stuck up there on her own for the night!

All that aside, this is a brilliant climb – accessible, with the chance of a beer and food at the top, and just the most stunning views.

I attempted some photographs, but really, they do the mountain no justice.

It is better to get up there on your own, and take mental snapshots.

Sunset City

Parting shot

Koeberg Interchange is finished!

2011-08-01T01:09:00.000-07:00

It is done!

Only those who live in Cape Town, especially Northern Suburbs, will know the dread with which we used to approach this interchange - especially after work. The traffic was horrendous, to understate somewhat.

But now, the new flyovers are finished - bringing celebrations from the driving public usually reserved for winning major sporting events.

On ramp

Straight onto the N1 - easy peasy

Happy Days!

The road to HEL

2011-07-29T09:18:00.000-07:00

Gamkaskloof, or ‘Die Hel’ as it is known, is a hidden valley in the Swartberg Mountains.

By hidden, I mean it was inhabited for over 130 years before the first road breached the mountain walls in the 60’s.

And by road, I mean a corrugated gravel and rock mountain rollercoaster, with eye-widening drop-offs, numerous river crossings sans bridges; and hairpin bends suited more to goats than vehicles.

The residents of the valley were completely self-sufficient and extremely tough. They developed their own community, church, schooling and farming in isolation.

They were also a long lived people, despite the harsh lifestyle – but then they did have that youth inducing elixir called ‘witblits’.

I know I felt instantly younger, funnier and better looking when I drank it.

I had always wanted to see this hidden world for myself, and when a long-weekend came up in the winter of June 2011, I took my chance.

Usually, a 4x4 or sturdy donkey is needed to reach Die Hel. As I owned neither, I came up with another idea – hire a mountain bike and simply cycle to this lost valley.

I never said it was a good idea.

Day 1 – Pain and Desperation - and PAIN

I started out from Prince Albert at midday, full of energy and adventure - and stupidity, obviously.

I had a ludicrously heavy backpack containing such essentials as wine, jeans, cowboy boots, 5 shirts, binoculars, toiletries and a 2kg hardcover novel.

I was woefully short on more logical items - like food and drink, satellite phone and rescue flares.

I had an energy bar and a peanut butter sandwich, and one water bottle on the bike.

Before the pain - all smiles

The first 5 kms out of town was a fairly gradual climb, first on tar, then dirt road through the gorge which cuts through the mountains.

I was already puffed by the time I got to the start of the stupendous Swartberg pass.

I did try to cycle, but to be honest I walked up most of the pass – 16km of vertiginous dirt road.

At this point the staggering immensity of the mountains was an anesthetic for me, and I gaped and stared as the meters inched by.

The tortured contours of the cliffs as they plunged hundreds of meters into shadowed canyons, the towering peaks, the beautiful fynbos and the pass itself; make this one of the world’s great treks.

Awesomeness!

Nearly there..?

Beautiful yes, but for idiots, it could be the last thing you see!

On and on I pushed; through the pain barrier, because, you see, I assumed that once I reached the top, once I had conquered this mighty mountain; I would have a downhill run to my hidden paradise.

Yes, of course I was wrong!

I took a photo of myself at the top of the pass, at the hairpin bend called Teeberg – all triumphant smile and twinkling eye.

I have another photo a few km’s further on, at the turnoff to Gamkaskloof.

In this photo there is a road sign that says ‘Dangerous road for 48kms. Use at own Risk!’

Forty Eight kilometers!

My sense of triumph faded as I crunched the numbers.

However, the track descended into the distance, so I was encouraged in my original assumption that it was downhill to ‘Die Hel’.

I was to be bitterly disappointed.

WHAT? Must be a misprint...

After a brief respite of rolling along the trail on the gentle downhill; the first of many tortuous climbs presented itself.

I valiantly peddled and fought my way to the crest of this hill, and a stunning vista of fynbos, mountain peaks and deep valleys, appeared before me.

Down I went, the stiff wind instantly cooling the sweat that had built up inside my heavy jacket on the climb.

At the bottom of the valley, I got my shoes wet for the first time fording the stream.

I nearly made it to the crest of the next climb before dismounting.

The next beautiful valley crouched under the low, scudding cloud, and I paused to eat my energy bar and take on some water.

I still had a peanut butter sandwich and half of my water, but I should have known it was not enough.

On and on I went.

The light drizzle turned to sleet, and the cold air stung my naked fingers.

Every 5kms there was a distance marker, and I stared at the 10km one in disbelief.

Surely I had done more than 10kms!

After contemplating turning around, I convinced myself that the markers were simply wrong, and pressed on.

Soon, the downhills were hurting as much as the uphill’s.

The heavily eroded track was pureeing my arms, and my hands were ice cold and cramping from applying brakes all the way down.

With rivers and rocks at the bottom of most descents, there was no chance to get momentum up for the approaching climb.

It was dismount, scramble across, and chug up the climb with sodden shoes.

Peak followed trough, the wind chilled me to the bone, the yawning drops at the trail edge grabbed at me with eager hands.

My food and water ran out, and shortly after, my energy went with it.

My legs had gone, my feet were frozen, my arms and hands were numb.

I kept saying to myself that the next ridge would reveal the valley, and each time it didn’t my body rebelled a little more.

I gradually became aware that the sun was setting, that I had stopped sweating and that I was shaking with cold.

I filled my water bottle from a stream. The water was crystal ice cold and beautiful. So was the sunset, but I watched it with dread.

This track would be murderous in the dark, and I still had no idea how far I had to go.

What the?..where the F*&# is this place!

The close rasping bark of a big male baboon galvanized me, and I pressed on.

I kept my gaze on the trail, no longer able to bear the image of another punishing climb ahead of me.

The light went and the temperature kept dropping.

I staggered and shivered slowly up another endless ascent. Figures began appearing on the trail ahead of me – first a Kudu, then some other antelope.

A low, powerful looking form loped into the bushes – a honey badger?

Every time I looked up I saw Baboons, and the thick bush crackled and crashed to the movement of unseen creatures.

I began hallucinating.

I was sure I saw a man with a walking stick at one point, but he became nothing more than a rock and a small shrub when I approached.

Later on, a rock two meters ahead of me grew arms and swung off into the night, grunting as it went. I no longer cared; I was literally on my last legs.

At some point I ground to a halt, breathing like I had taken a shot in the lung, then I collapsed in a heap and fell instantly asleep.

Well, more coma than sleep…

I must have lain there in the rain, unconscious, for about an hour.

Something woke me, and I jumped to my feet in confusion.

A troop of Baboons melted away into the darkness.

They must have been at my pack while I dreamt of pasta and red wine.

I gave myself a mental thrashing, arguing that I would die if I spent the night on this mountain.

I reluctantly agreed with myself, but found that I could not walk another inch.

Then I remembered – I had red wine!

More than a liter of it, in my leather Spanish drinking pouch!

I hurriedly unpacked it and guzzled a good amount.

Almost instantly I felt more positive, and found the strength to plough slowly on up the track.

Even so, I had to stop every 50 meters or so for a breather, and some wine.

By the time I reached the summit of what turned out to be the last ascent, I was feeling remarkably upbeat.

I had no fear of Baboons or Leopards, or of falling off a cliff, which was to come in handy.

I even started hoping there might be people somewhere down there in the darkness having a camp fire party!

Of course, I was also very, very drunk.

Excuse me sir, would you like some more wine?

The trail descended again and I was back on the bike.

It was very dark with the clouds blocking the moon as I rattled ever downwards, but eventually I saw a light, a lone light, far below.

This was Elands Pass, the last and steepest of them all. There is no road edge, just air – any misjudgment and it is pretty much tickets.

The wine had honed my sense of invulnerability, and I careered downhill like a madman.

My hands were so frozen I could hardly keep the brakes on, and I am sure at one point I hit about 280kmh.

Or thereabouts…

A few times a larger rock in the road bounced me dangerously close to the edge, and eventually I was persuaded to take a short cut.
To save time.
Actually I just dropped into space, then slid and fell through the low bush until I hit the track again.

I had injuries, but by this point I was just giggling at everything.

I made the foot of the pass, but it was still about 8kms to the camp HQ, and the road somehow managed to get even worse, with deep ruts in the mud and rock strewn river crossings.

I nearly laughed myself to sleep a few times as I lay in the mud, but hunger forced me on.

The good people that run the accommodation had waited up for me, and drove me to the camping site on arrival.

They made no comment on my appearance, although they did stare at me, wide eyed and silent, when I knocked on their door.

I was lucky they didn’t shoot me – although I doubt I would have felt it.

There was a warm plate of food, a half-hearted attempt to make a fire, then sweet oblivion.

I had survived.

Good Grief!

I was going to write a ‘Day 2’ and ‘Day 3’, but ‘Die Hel’ deserves its own story.

It is a mystical, wild and savagely beautiful place.

Only one couple still lives in the valley – descendants of the original ‘Kloovers’. They have a small child now, and we can only hope that the tradition continues; that there will always be someone there to welcome you – or rescue you.

So, in short - I made firm friends with Lucky, the fearless local fox terrier.

Together we ranged around the valley, harassing the ever present Baboons and chasing Kudu.

There was dancing around the camp fire covered in pork fat and wine, chanting and writhing with naked Mulatto girls as the red moon grinned down.

No – wait; that was a dream.

I think!

There was a late night swim in Koningsgat – a bottomless swimming hole hidden in the folds of the range, on the Gamka River. The moon was full and the witblits was powerful, and I am sure we were joined by other denizens of the night.

I did notice that my footprints in the soft river sand were overlaid with other tracks – buck and leopard – when I left the river.

There were other tracks too, but now I am not sure what was real and what was witblits induced. As I said, it is a mystical and magical place.

I cried when I left the valley – partly because I love the place, but mostly because I had to cycle my way out!

The rescue I had hoped for did not eventuate – but I did get help.

A simply excellent group of people in a 4x4 expedition took my pack out for me. There was no space for anything else, but it made all the difference.

I made it up Elands Pass, the unbelievable steep pass into the valley. When the guys came past me in the 4x4’s, they had energy drinks and sweets for me.

I managed not to whimper in pain when I thanked them.

The rest of the trip out – 6 hours or so – was exhausting and fantastic. The sun was out and the views were mesmerizing, and the descent down the Swartberg Pass and into Prince Albert was like a celebration of danger and speed.

I met up with my new support crew in town and we had a drink together.

My body was battered and I had nearly died, but as I sat there in the bar with a cold beer, all I wanted was to do it again.

Bastille Day Trail Run

2011-07-18T02:02:00.000-07:00

This was a guinea pig event and will definately be a regular from now on.

The route in the mountains surrounding the Berg River dam is spectacularly located.
There was an 11km and a 22km run, with a number of adventure options availble to extend (or shorten) the course.
The trail itself was very rugged and rocky - a lot of scrambling and rock hopping, with lots of water, river crossings and mud!
It was more adventure than a straight run, and the trail dissapears altogether in places. The last few river crossings were above waist height, so no point trying to keep you shoes dry.
Actually, a boogie board might come in handy.

Early morning start

Steep but beautiful

Ankle breaker

Lots of water and boulder hopping.

The event was very well organised. Because it falls over the Bastille weekend in Franschoek, it is very festive. There was plenty of free sherry before and after the race, people were dressed up in French-type attire, and the festival in town after the race was just mad.

There are bars and wine tastings everywhere in Franschoek on the Bastille weekend. Public drinking is encouraged, French food and attitude is everywhere.
There is plenty of family stuff, but the party starts early continues through the night, all weekend.

Winter sun

2011-07-10T13:46:00.000-07:00

Twenty Five degrees today in Cape Town.
Windless, perfect beach weather in the middle of winter. It seemed the whole city was out at the cafes and restaurants, forests and beaches.
The mountains looked on in silence.

Noordhoek beach was crowded with surfers, families, dogs and horse-riders. The water was crystal clear and not as cold as it gets it summer, when the south-easter blows.
A couple of kilometres down the beach, it was deserted. The remains of the Kakapo stand like skeletal fingers scratching at the sky.
Further on, down at the wetlands, I found a tortoise and two snakes sunning themselves. One was a skaapsteker - but the other one looked like a small python.

Newlands Forest

2011-06-27T05:07:00.000-07:00

Few cities in the world have such a wealth of natural attractions as Cape Town.

Newlands Forest is just one of these.

The lush, green wilderness inhabits the back slopes of Table Mountain and Devil’s Peak, and stretches from Kirstenbosch Gardens all the way to UCT.

It is a realm of rivers and streams, waterfalls and swimming holes.

Remnant indigenous Cape Forest blankets the upper slopes, alongside fynbos and the pine plantations.

The larger trails are signposted, but there are myriad smaller tracks to explore.

There is secure parking just off the M3 at the Newlands Fire base. Dogs are allowed and you can picnic anywhere, or braai further along at the picnic sites closer to UCT.

Some of the trails link with the contour path, which wraps all the way around the mountain to the Lower Cable Station.

You can also access Kirstenbosch gardens via the trails, or go straight up the mountain using Newlands ravine.

The cliffs in Newlands Ravine

Hard Pear, a beautiful indigenous Cape forest tree

From the top of the ravine, way above the forest, you can see the city

There are numerous rives and streams, and opportunities to cool off

From the top of the ravine you can see the city, Green Point and the new stadium, and Robben Island; and in the other direction, the Southern Suburbs all the way to Muizenberg.

Newlands forest is a great adventure for kids, for dogs, for picnics, or for all levels of trail running and general exploring.

2011-06-06T07:26:00.000-07:00

The Crystal Towers Hotel and Spa.

A beautiful addition to the Century City landscape, this hotel has now bedded in and ironed out the kinks, so to speak.

Beautifully designed in a style I think we can call Modern African, perhaps AfroModern – It sits on a rise opposite Virgin active, and has surprisingly excellent views of the city.

In fact, the pool deck must have some of the best views around – Table Mountain looms over the CBD, Robben Island also appears close by, and the waterfront and new stadium at Greenpoint can be seen clearly.

The rooms are ultra-modern, some with amazing circular stand-alone showers – very lean and clean.

The restaurant and deli are excellent, and with ‘Knife’ opening recently across the lobby, the hotel complex is a destination in its own right.

But it is the two bars that steal the show.

The bar off the lobby is simply sensational. A double volume book case greets you as you arrive. The interior is high-ceilinged, Dark red, deep velvet and feels like a secret.

The bar itself is a gently backlit ruby delight, with a bank of flat screens set discreetly on the right so you can still catch the rugby whilst feeling a bit James Bond.

Off the main bar are two private lounges, one dedicated to Kingsley Holgate, and one to David Kramer. Both have beautiful leather lounges and fireplaces, and are decorated with items donated by the two South African legends – guitars and music and related paraphernalia in the Kramer lounge; telescopes and travel photos and adventure toys in the Holgate lounge.

Both can be hired out, or just enjoyed ad-hoc if not occupied.

Certainly one of the top spaces for drinks in the city, especially in winter.

Lobby bar.

Entance to the lobby bar.

Then there is the bar at the pool deck.

Absolute luxury, much lighter and brighter than its sister downstairs, it adjoins the spa and has the view over the pool to the ocean and the city. More a summer bar, they have recently installed a huge Bedouin Tent out over the deck, creating a new sheltered space that is winter-proofed.

Very classy and Mediterranean chic.

Pool deck view from the bar with city in the distance.

The Hotel is linked to Canal Walk Shops by a pedestrian suspension bridge, which resembles an art installation with its beautiful curved and off-centre support structure.

The bridge from Canal Walk showing the hotel on the left and private aparments on the right.

A very slic and chic addition to the Cape Town hotel scene, and worth making the trip away from the city for a function, a party, or just a few cocktails.

2011-05-30T09:53:00.000-07:00

The Good Food and Wine show wrapped up at the CTICC over the weekend.

The R85 entrance fee turned out to be a total bargain.

The ‘tastings’ at the various wine stalls are basically like being in a bar, with the sample pours getting more generous as the evening wore on.

The food samples were similar and plentiful.

There were a couple of actual bars, like the castle lager stand, which was showing the rugby and was really festive.

Johnny Walker had a very sexy stand in the form of a lacquered black, intimate bar.

As for the wines, there were two standout producers for me – Solms-Delta and Ormonde.

Solms-Delta creates the most psychedelic blends, and most of them work. The farm itself is very pro-active in empowering the local community, and very connected to the history of the area.

The white blend ‘vastrap’ is excellent, but top of the pile is the Afrikana – which is not actually a blend. It 100% shiraz, but made from dessicated grapes (as in left on the vine to dry). The resulting wine is unique, almost port like on the nose but with a wonderfull dry mouthfeel and lingering finish.

Ormonde had a beautiful Shiraz-Grenache blend that is going to make a bit of a splash, I think.

The Chile vs South Africa tasting was great fun, and there were other distractions like a golf driving range and obviously the cooking demonstrations.

Certainly will be going next year.

Winter Sunsets

2011-05-28T05:00:00.000-07:00

Cape Town in winter can be wet and cold, lashed by Atlantic storm fronts and pounding seas. It is also at its most beautiful, emerald and forest green.
Waterfalls hang suspended above the city on the mountain walls, and the air has a clarity not found in the summer months.
And the sunsets - the sunsets remind us that we are still here in Africa!

First Touch

2011-05-28T04:24:00.000-07:00

Being back in Cape Town is a riot of emotion.
Colourful, beautiful, confronting. Most of all it is a relief, a feeling of having dodged a bullet, or escaped from prison.
That is not to say that the other places I have lived in this world have not been special or beautiful in their own right.
Paradoxically, the class of Paris and the elegance of Barcelona, the moist excitement of Bangkok have served to magnify the brilliance of the Cape.
And this is home, after all.

The city has matured.
Walking down St Georges mall is a european experience, while up in De Waterkant is really like nowhere else.
The culinary landscape is rich, the nightlife feels young and eager.
The new convention centre and canals linking the waterfront, the water taxi's, the new urban park and stadium - necessary human constructions complimenting the epic beauty of the natural surrounds.

Living here now is an adventure, the excitement of seeing the city and the country find its way, realize its potential.
We have work to do and lots to celebrate.

Time to explore.