tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14520764301902259842024-03-13T11:10:54.650-07:00Inside PhotographyTake stunning your photos with your digital camera using our digital photography guide tips and TutorialsSugeng Ariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04530677626306210126noreply@blogger.comBlogger145125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1452076430190225984.post-34185537418447764662012-11-03T12:38:00.002-07:002012-11-03T12:38:39.969-07:005 Things Every Landscape Photographer Should Carry At All Times - PhotoNaturalist<style type="text/css"> h1 a:hover {background-color:#888;color:#fff ! important;} div#emailbody table#itemcontentlist tr td div ul { list-style-type:square; padding-left:1em; } div#emailbody table#itemcontentlist tr td div blockquote { padding-left:6px; border-left: 6px solid #dadada; margin-left:1em; } div#emailbody table#itemcontentlist tr td div li { margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:1em; } table#itemcontentlist tr td a:link, table#itemcontentlist tr td a:visited, table#itemcontentlist tr td a:active, ul#summarylist li a { color:#000099; font-weight:bold; text-decoration:none; } img {border:none;} </style> <div xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" id="emailbody" style="margin:0 2em;font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;line-height:140%;font-size:13px;color:#000000;"> <table style="border:0;padding:0;margin:0;width:100%"> <tr> <td style="vertical-align:top" width="99%"> <h1 style="margin:0;padding-bottom:6px;"> <a style="color:#888;font-size:22px;font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-weight:normal;text-decoration:none;" href="http://photonaturalist.net" title="(http://photonaturalist.net)">5 Things Every Landscape Photographer Should Carry At All Times - PhotoNaturalist</a> <br /> <a href="http://fusion.google.com/add?source=atgs&feedurl=http://feeds.feedburner.com/photonaturalist"> <img style="padding-top:6px" alt="" border="0" src="http://gmodules.com/ig/images/plus_google.gif" /> </a> </h1> </td> <td width="1%" /> </tr> </table> <hr style="border:1px solid #ccc;padding:0;margin:0" /> <table id="itemcontentlist"> <tr xmlns=""> <td style="margin-bottom:0;line-height:1.4em;"> <p style="margin:1em 0 3px 0;"> <a name="1" style="font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:18px;" href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/photonaturalist/~3/zbbjGcG8h3k/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=email">5 Things Every Landscape Photographer Should Carry At All Times</a> </p> <p style="font-size:13px;color:#555;margin:9px 0 3px 0;font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;line-height:140%;font-size:13px;"> <span>Posted:</span> 30 Oct 2012 02:24 PM PDT</p> <div style="margin:0;font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;line-height:140%;font-size:13px;color:#000000;"><p><img src="http://photonaturalist.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/tripod_equipment2.jpg" alt="" title="tripod" width="180" height="240" class="alignright size-full wp-image-4477" />With all those camera accessories available out there, it’s easy to become a gearhead, and lose sight of what’s really important: making photographs. </p> <p>Although a lot of these accessories just add unnecessary weight to your backpack, there are at least five things that are extremely useful for a landscape photographer:<span id="more-611"></span></p> <h3><strong>#1 – Tripod</strong></h3> <p>Okay, this one’s obvious (or at least it should be!). When photographing landscapes, you’ll want a lot of depth of field, which means a high f-number (usually f/11 or higher), which means longer exposures. And, longer exposures mean more sensitiviy to camera shake.</p> <p>Nothing will keep your camera more still than a tripod. It’s virtually impossible to get sharp landscape photographs without one.</p> <h3><strong>#2 – Polarizing filter </strong></h3> <p>There are three great things that a polarzing filter can do for your landscape photos:</p> <ul> <li>Darken or deepen the color of blue skies</li> <li>Eliminate reflections on the surface of water and/or rocks</li> <li>Help reduce incoming light, when you need longer shutter speeds</li> </ul> <p>Here are a few examples of the polarizing filter in action:</p> <div id="attachment_619" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 410px"><img src="http://photonaturalist.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/img_1194b.jpg" alt="Photo by Steve Berardi" title="img_1194b" width="400" height="495" class="size-full wp-image-619" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Photo by Steve Berardi</p></div> <p>In the photo above of a Desert Fan Palm, I used a polarizing filter to deepen the blue color of the desert sky.</p> <p><em>By the way, the Desert Fan Palm happens to be the only species of palm tree that’s really native to California (most of the ones you see in LA and along the coast were actually brought here by the Australians during the gold rush).</em></p> <div id="attachment_623" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 480px"><img src="http://photonaturalist.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/img_6355c.jpg" alt="Photo by Steve Berardi" title="img_6355c" width="470" height="313" class="size-full wp-image-623" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Photo by Steve Berardi</p></div> <p>The polarizing filter helped eliminate the reflections on the rock in the photo above, taken at the Columbia River Gorge in Oregon.</p> <p><em>Polarizing filters work best when you’re shooting at a 90 degree angle from the sun</em>, so they won’t do much good for you if you’re shooting directly at the sun or if the sun is directly behind you.</p> <p>And, make sure you turn the ring on the filter until you get the best looking results.</p> <h3><strong>#3 – Neutral density filter (2 stop)</strong></h3> <p>The neutral density filter simply reduces the amount of light coming into your camera, so it’s helpful when you want to get longer shutter speeds.</p> <p>Here’s an example of a scene where this filter is helpful:</p> <div id="attachment_624" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 475px"><img src="http://photonaturalist.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/img_6163b.jpg" alt="Photo by Steve Berardi" title="img_6163b" width="465" height="310" class="size-full wp-image-624" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Photo by Steve Berardi</p></div> <p>The photo above was taken at Lake Tahoe, Nevada. Since the sun had just set, it was still pretty bright out, but I wanted a photo with smooth water, which required a longer shutter speed. To get this longer shutter speed, I had to reduce the amount of light coming into my camera (the job description of the neutral density filter).</p> <p>Some photographers prefer a 1-stop ND filter, but personally I like the 2-stop because I feel like the 1-stop isn’t strong enough. If I only need to stop down one stop, then I’d rather do something else, like use a smaller aperture.</p> <h3><strong>#4 – Compass</strong></h3> <p>A compass can help you determine where the sun will be at sunrise/sunset, which will tell you if that wonderful golden light will be shining on that ridge or that mountain peak, or whatever you want to capture!</p> <p>To figure out the azimuth of the sunrise/sunset, you can use <a href="http://photoephemeris.com/">The Photographer’s Ephemeris</a>.</p> <h3><strong>#5 – Flashlight</strong></h3> <p>Since that golden light only occurs at sunrise or sunset, you’ll find yourself hiking in the dark very often. Bring a flashlight for safety, so you don’t end up tripping on something! Headlamps work great too.</p> <p>There’s been numerous times where I’ve forgotten a good flashlight and had to hike back in the dark, carefully. One time I just used my cell phone as a flashlight (you might want to checkout that brilliant iPhone flashlight app).</p> <p>Or, better yet, just bring a sleeping bag and tent and spend the night at your photo location! Wake up early for a beautiful sunrise <img src='http://photonaturalist.net/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p> <h3><strong>What did I miss?</strong></h3> <p>Is there something else you carry that helps you as a landscape photographer? If so, please tell us about it by leaving a comment below. Thanks! <img src='http://photonaturalist.net/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p> <h3><strong>Get more great tips in our free <a href="http://photonaturalist.net/newsletter/">weekly newsletter</a>.</strong></h3> <p> <hr /> <p><a href="http://photonaturalist.net/learn-by-example-in-my-new-ebook/"><img src="http://photonaturalist.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/examples_ad.jpg" alt="" title="Learn by example!" width="600" height="200" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-3635" /></a></p> <p><img src="http://photonaturalist.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/steveb2.jpg" alt="steveb2" title="steveb2" width="120" height="140" class="alignleft size-full wp-image-1043" /><strong>About the Author:</strong> <em><a href="http://www.steveberardi.com">Steve Berardi</a> is a naturalist, photographer, software engineer, and founder of PhotoNaturalist. You can usually find him hiking in the beautiful mountains and deserts of southern California.</em></p> <p>Related posts:<ol> <li><a href='http://photonaturalist.net/why-you-shouldnt-carry-too-much-gear/' rel='bookmark' title='Why You Shouldn’t Carry Too Much Gear'>Why You Shouldn’t Carry Too Much Gear</a></li> <li><a href='http://photonaturalist.net/the-perfect-backpack-for-a-hiking-photographer/' rel='bookmark' title='The Perfect Backpack For a Hiking Photographer'>The Perfect Backpack For a Hiking Photographer</a></li> <li><a href='http://photonaturalist.net/what-to-photograph-on-an-overcast-day/' rel='bookmark' title='What To Photograph On An Overcast Day'>What To Photograph On An Overcast Day</a></li> </ol></p><div class="feedflare"> <a href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/photonaturalist?a=zbbjGcG8h3k:tG7bD9EpnUc:yIl2AUoC8zA"><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/photonaturalist?d=yIl2AUoC8zA" border="0"></img></a> <a href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/photonaturalist?a=zbbjGcG8h3k:tG7bD9EpnUc:D7DqB2pKExk"><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/photonaturalist?i=zbbjGcG8h3k:tG7bD9EpnUc:D7DqB2pKExk" border="0"></img></a> <a href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/photonaturalist?a=zbbjGcG8h3k:tG7bD9EpnUc:V_sGLiPBpWU"><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/photonaturalist?i=zbbjGcG8h3k:tG7bD9EpnUc:V_sGLiPBpWU" border="0"></img></a> <a href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/photonaturalist?a=zbbjGcG8h3k:tG7bD9EpnUc:7Q72WNTAKBA"><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/photonaturalist?d=7Q72WNTAKBA" border="0"></img></a> <a href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/photonaturalist?a=zbbjGcG8h3k:tG7bD9EpnUc:gIN9vFwOqvQ"><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/photonaturalist?i=zbbjGcG8h3k:tG7bD9EpnUc:gIN9vFwOqvQ" border="0"></img></a> <a href="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/photonaturalist?a=zbbjGcG8h3k:tG7bD9EpnUc:qj6IDK7rITs"><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~ff/photonaturalist?d=qj6IDK7rITs" border="0"></img></a> </div><img src="http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/photonaturalist/~4/zbbjGcG8h3k?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=email" height="1" width="1"/></div> </td> </tr> </table> <table style="border-top:1px solid #999;padding-top:4px;margin-top:1.5em;width:100%" id="footer"> <tr> <td style="text-align:left;font-family:Helvetica,Arial,Sans-Serif;font-size:11px;margin:0 6px 1.2em 0;color:#333;">You are subscribed to email updates from <a href="http://photonaturalist.net">PhotoNaturalist</a> <br />To stop receiving these emails, you may <a href="http://feedburner.google.com/fb/a/mailunsubscribe?k=_6KGvDw08X42mbcjmhEi5BGay0Q">unsubscribe now</a>.</td> <td style="font-family:Helvetica,Arial,Sans-Serif;font-size:11px;margin:0 6px 1.2em 0;color:#333;text-align:right;vertical-align:top">Email delivery powered by Google</td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" style="text-align:left;font-family:Helvetica,Arial,Sans-Serif;font-size:11px;margin:0 6px 1.2em 0;color:#333;">Google Inc., 20 West Kinzie, Chicago IL USA 60610</td> </tr> </table> </div> Sugeng Ariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04530677626306210126noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1452076430190225984.post-50916087655790088632012-11-03T12:38:00.001-07:002012-11-03T12:38:33.922-07:00Photoshop Tutorials: WebZap Review: Create 960 Grid Layouts in a Zap<style type="text/css"> h1 a:hover {background-color:#888;color:#fff ! important;} div#emailbody table#itemcontentlist tr td div ul { list-style-type:square; padding-left:1em; } div#emailbody table#itemcontentlist tr td div blockquote { padding-left:6px; border-left: 6px solid #dadada; margin-left:1em; } div#emailbody table#itemcontentlist tr td div li { margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:1em; } table#itemcontentlist tr td a:link, table#itemcontentlist tr td a:visited, table#itemcontentlist tr td a:active, ul#summarylist li a { color:#006ea3; font-weight:bold; text-decoration:none; } img {border:none;} </style> <div xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" id="emailbody" style="margin:0 2em;font-family:Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;line-height:140%;font-size:12px;color:#545c66;"> <table style="border:0;padding:0;margin:0;width:100%"> <tr> <td style="vertical-align:top" width="99%"> <h1 style="margin:0;padding-bottom:6px;"> <a style="color:#888;font-size:22px;font-family:Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-weight:normal;text-decoration:none;" href="http://photoshoptutorials.ws" title="(http://photoshoptutorials.ws)">Photoshop Tutorials: WebZap Review: Create 960 Grid Layouts in a Zap</a> <br /> <a href="http://fusion.google.com/add?source=atgs&feedurl=http://feeds.feedburner.com/photoshoptutorials/new"> <img style="padding-top:6px" alt="" border="0" src="http://gmodules.com/ig/images/plus_google.gif" /> </a> </h1> </td> <td width="1%"> <a href="http://photoshoptutorials.ws"> <img src="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/images/logo-for-rss.png" alt="Link to Photoshop Tutorials" id="feedimage" style="padding:0 0 10px 3px;border:0;" /> </a> </td> </tr> </table> <hr style="border:1px solid #ccc;padding:0;margin:0" /> <table id="itemcontentlist"> <tr xmlns=""> <td style="margin-bottom:0;line-height:1.4em;"> <p style="margin:1em 0 3px 0;"> <a name="1" style="font-family:Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;" href="http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/photoshoptutorials/new/~3/Qrtw1zejvSA/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=email">WebZap Review: Create 960 Grid Layouts in a Zap</a> </p> <p style="font-size:12px;color:#555;margin:9px 0 3px 0;font-family:Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;line-height:140%;font-size:12px;"> <span>Posted:</span> 02 Nov 2012 04:06 PM PDT</p> <div style="margin:0;font-family:Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;line-height:140%;font-size:12px;color:#545c66;"><p><!--noads--></p> <div class="row-fluid"> <div class="wpb_content_element span12 wpb_text_column"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"> <h2>What is WebZap?</h2> <p><a href="http://webzap.uiparade.com">WebZap</a> is a Photoshop addon that lets you create web layouts fast. In fact, we were able to create a wireframe/mockup of our layout in minutes! This is one of our favorite Photoshop plugins for web designers and we’ll show you why.</p> </div> </div> </div> <div class="row-fluid"> <div class="wpb_video_widget wpb_content_element span12"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/52345557" width="740" height="416" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe> </div> </div> </div> <div class="wpb_separator wpb_content_element "></div> <div class="row-fluid"> <div class="wpb_content_element span4 wpb_text_column"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"> <h2>Easy Installation Through Adobe Extension Manager</h2> <p>Installation is easy and WebZap does it right by doing it through Adobe Extension Manager; a convenient way to add/remove extensions for your Adobe products. This also means that you need Photoshop CS5 or newer to use WebZap. Once you have WebZap installed, you can access it from the Window > Extensions > WebZap menu. WebZap appears as a panel in Photoshop.</p> </div> </div> <div class="wpb_gallery wpb_content_element span8"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"><div class="wpb_gallery_slides wpb_slider_nivo" data-interval="0"><img width="480" height="320" src="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/adobe-extensions-manager.jpg" class="attachment-full" alt="adobe-extensions-manager" title="adobe-extensions-manager" /><img width="480" height="320" src="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/window-extensions-webzap.jpg" class="attachment-full" alt="window-extensions-webzap" title="window-extensions-webzap" /><img width="480" height="320" src="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/webzap-panel.jpg" class="attachment-full" alt="webzap-panel" title="webzap-panel" /></div> </div> </div> </div> <div class="wpb_separator wpb_content_element "></div> <div class="row-fluid"> <div class="wpb_content_element span12 wpb_text_column"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"> <h2>The WebZap Panel</h2> </div> </div> </div> <div class="row-fluid"> <div class="wpb_content_element wpb_single_image span12"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"> <img width="675" height="294" src="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/image11.png" class="attachment-full" alt="image.png" title="image.png" /> </div> </div> </div> <div class="row-fluid"> <div class="wpb_content_element span4 column_container"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"> <div class="row-fluid"> <div class="wpb_content_element span12 wpb_text_column"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"> <p>1. Select a layout. There are two types of layouts you can pick from and it is mainly based on where you want your navigation to be located (top or left).</p> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> <div class="wpb_content_element span4 column_container"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"> <div class="row-fluid"> <div class="wpb_content_element span12 wpb_text_column"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"> <p>2. The Layout tab lets you add a navigation, a feature area, and content.</p> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> <div class="wpb_content_element span4 column_container"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"> <div class="row-fluid"> <div class="wpb_content_element span12 wpb_text_column"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"> <p>3. Once you have your layout designed, the UI tab lets you add buttons, forms, and sliders easily. All of the items will appear as vector layers which means you can change the size and shape using Photoshop’s path tools.</p> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> <div class="row-fluid"> <div class="wpb_content_element span4 column_container"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"> <div class="row-fluid"> <div class="wpb_content_element span12 wpb_text_column"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"> <p>4. The styling tab allows you to change the color, font, and other style features.</p> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> <div class="wpb_content_element span4 column_container"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"> <div class="row-fluid"> <div class="wpb_content_element span12 wpb_text_column"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"> <p>5. Finally, when you’re done with your layout, you can preview it with these auto-generating mockups.</p> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> <div class="wpb_content_element span4 column_container"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"> <div class="row-fluid"> <div class="wpb_content_element span12 wpb_text_column"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"> <p>4. This toolset area lets you create a new blank page, add layout guides based on the 960 grid system, snip your design into smaller parts, and create placeholder text layouts.</p> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> <div class="wpb_separator wpb_content_element "></div> <div class="row-fluid"> <div class="wpb_content_element span12 wpb_text_column"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"> <h2>Creating a Layout</h2> <p>I started WebZap skeptical about how useful it’ll be. But I was wrong. WebZap created a template with a logo, navigation, and fake-content automatically with just one click. All their templates conforms to the 960 grid system and the template elements are organized into groups with editable layers.</p> <p>You start off by choosing whether you’d like to create a template with the menu on the top or on the left. Once that is selected, WebZap will present you with 14 header or 9 sidebar navigation styles to choose from. Next, you choose the feature area. Finally, you complete it with a content layout to show in the fold. In 3 simple steps, you’ve created yourself a homepage layout.</p> </div> </div> </div> <div class="row-fluid"> <div class="wpb_content_element wpb_single_image span12"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"> <img width="740" height="388" src="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/pick-menu-feature-content-layout.jpg" class="attachment-full" alt="pick-menu-feature-content-layout" title="pick-menu-feature-content-layout" /> </div> </div> </div> <div class="row-fluid"> <div class="wpb_video_widget wpb_content_element span12"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"><iframe width="740" height="416" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/3kl-zrHjb4I?fs=1&feature=oembed" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> </div> </div> </div> <div class="wpb_separator wpb_content_element "></div> <div class="row-fluid"> <div class="wpb_content_element span12 wpb_text_column"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"> <h2>Editing the Layout</h2> <p>WebZap comes with a good number of premade layouts/styles and it doesn’t stop there. The layouts are organized into layer groups with vector shape and text layers. This means you can easily edit text and alter shapes (ex. backgrounds, buttons, etc.) nondestructively. One caveat is that if you rename the layer groups, WebZap will not update the content when you select a new style. This is because WebZap relies on the layer group names for identification. Instead, you will get a new layer group with the new content.</p> </div> </div> </div> <div class="row-fluid"> <div class="wpb_content_element wpb_single_image span12"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"> <img width="740" height="494" src="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/webzap-layers.jpg" class="attachment-full" alt="webzap-layers" title="webzap-layers" /> </div> </div> </div> <div class="wpb_separator wpb_content_element "></div> <div class="row-fluid"> <div class="wpb_content_element span12 wpb_text_column"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"> <h2>Adding UI Elements</h2> <p>Asides from creating quick web layouts, WebZap also lets you create quick buttons, forms elements, and sliders. There are the 3 common button shapes, 15 form elements, and 5 slider styles. Adding them is as easy as clicking. To edit them, you need to know how to edit layer styles and vector paths. Some UI elements let you customize the colors while others don’t.</p> </div> </div> </div> <div class="row-fluid"> <div class="wpb_gallery wpb_content_element span12"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"><div class="wpb_gallery_slides wpb_slider_nivo" data-interval="10"><img width="740" height="800" src="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/pick-button-color-text.jpg" class="attachment-full" alt="pick-button-color-text" title="pick-button-color-text" /><img width="740" height="800" src="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/UI-Elements2.jpg" class="attachment-full" alt="UI-Elements" title="UI-Elements" /></div> </div> </div> </div> <div class="wpb_separator wpb_content_element "></div> <div class="row-fluid"> <div class="wpb_content_element span12 wpb_text_column"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"> <h2>Styling the Template</h2> <p>In the styling tab, you can change the style and color for the frame, dividers, and text. They’re all perfect albiet the text styles. This area lets you customize the font styles for the header tags (h1, h2, h3, etc.) and it works great as it is, but we wished they used the new paragraph/character styles feature found in Photoshop CS6.</p> </div> </div> </div> <div class="row-fluid"> <div class="wpb_gallery wpb_content_element span12"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"><div class="wpb_gallery_slides wpb_flexslider flexslider_fade flexslider" data-interval="10" data-flex_fx="fade"><ul class="slides"><li><img width="740" height="493" src="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/webzap-frame1.jpg" class="attachment-full" alt="webzap-frame" title="webzap-frame" /></li><li><img width="740" height="493" src="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/webzap-style-headers1.jpg" class="attachment-full" alt="webzap-style-headers" title="webzap-style-headers" /></li><li><img width="740" height="493" src="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/webzap-dividers1.jpg" class="attachment-full" alt="webzap-dividers" title="webzap-dividers" /></li></ul></div> </div> </div> </div> <div class="wpb_separator wpb_content_element "></div> <div class="row-fluid"> <div class="wpb_content_element span12 wpb_text_column"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"> <h2>Creating Mockups</h2> <p>Once you’re happy with your design, you can create mockups of your template in the preview tab. WebZap comes with 8 Apple-centric mockup styles:</p> <ul> <li>6 desktop browser mockups in different angles</li> <li>1 smartphone mockup</li> <li>1 tablet mockup</li> </ul> </div> </div> </div> <div class="row-fluid"> <div class="wpb_gallery wpb_content_element span12"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"><div class="wpb_gallery_slides wpb_image_grid" data-interval="0"><ul class="wpb_image_grid_ul"><li class="isotope-item"><a class="prettyphoto" rel="prettyPhoto[rel-1907350516]" href="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/mockup-1.jpg"><img width="150" height="150" src="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/mockup-1-150x150.jpg" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="mockup-1" title="mockup-1" /></a></li><li class="isotope-item"><a class="prettyphoto" rel="prettyPhoto[rel-1907350516]" href="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/mockup-2.jpg"><img width="150" height="150" src="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/mockup-2-150x150.jpg" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="mockup-2" title="mockup-2" /></a></li><li class="isotope-item"><a class="prettyphoto" rel="prettyPhoto[rel-1907350516]" href="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/mockup-3.jpg"><img width="150" height="150" src="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/mockup-3-150x150.jpg" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="mockup-3" title="mockup-3" /></a></li><li class="isotope-item"><a class="prettyphoto" rel="prettyPhoto[rel-1907350516]" href="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/mockup-4.jpg"><img width="150" height="150" src="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/mockup-4-150x150.jpg" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="mockup-4" title="mockup-4" /></a></li><li class="isotope-item"><a class="prettyphoto" rel="prettyPhoto[rel-1907350516]" href="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/mockup-5.jpg"><img width="150" height="150" src="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/mockup-5-150x150.jpg" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="mockup-5" title="mockup-5" /></a></li><li class="isotope-item"><a class="prettyphoto" rel="prettyPhoto[rel-1907350516]" href="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/mockup-6.jpg"><img width="150" height="150" src="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/mockup-6-150x150.jpg" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="mockup-6" title="mockup-6" /></a></li><li class="isotope-item"><a class="prettyphoto" rel="prettyPhoto[rel-1907350516]" href="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/mockup-7.jpg"><img width="150" height="150" src="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/mockup-7-150x150.jpg" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="mockup-7" title="mockup-7" /></a></li><li class="isotope-item"><a class="prettyphoto" rel="prettyPhoto[rel-1907350516]" href="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/mockup-8.jpg"><img width="150" height="150" src="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/mockup-8-150x150.jpg" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="mockup-8" title="mockup-8" /></a></li></ul></div> </div> </div> </div> <div class="row-fluid"> <div class="wpb_content_element span4 wpb_text_column"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"> <h3>Getting around the flattened mockups</h3> <p>While these are easy to use, we don’t see ourselves using it much. We’re hoping that in future updates, WebZap will come with more customizable mockups. The mockups are a flattened image but it is very easy to get around. Simply undoing a step (Ctrl+Z) will reveal a Smart Object. Double-clicking that Smart Object will reveals the layers.</p> </div> </div> <div class="wpb_content_element wpb_single_image span8"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"> <img width="740" height="493" src="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/mockup-layers.jpg" class="attachment-full" alt="mockup-layers" title="mockup-layers" /> </div> </div> </div> <div class="wpb_separator wpb_content_element "></div> <div class="row-fluid"> <div class="wpb_content_element span12 wpb_text_column"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"> <h2>Additional Tools</h2> <p>WebZap comes with additional tools that let you create a new 1100x1550px document (1), add layout guides based on the 960 grid system (2), snip layers/groups for easier PSD to HTML conversion (3), and generate Lorem Ipsum text layouts (4).</p> </div> </div> </div> <div class="row-fluid"> <div class="wpb_content_element wpb_single_image span12"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"> <img width="740" height="493" src="http://photoshoptutorials.ws/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/webzap-mini-toolset.jpg" class="attachment-full" alt="webzap-mini-toolset" title="webzap-mini-toolset" /> </div> </div> </div> <div class="wpb_separator wpb_content_element "></div> <div class="row-fluid"> <div class="wpb_content_element span12 wpb_text_column"> <div class="wpb_wrapper"> <h2>Verdict: A must-have Photoshop extension for Web Designers</h2> <p>WebZap feels and works like a Photoshop action set organized in a panel. It comes with the most common layouts and creates them in editable vector shape and text layers. It’s so easy-to-use that any beginner will figure it out, but you still need to understand the basics of the 960 grid system and how to edit vector shapes & styles. WebZap isn’t meant to replace your web design process – it’s meant to compliment it. Use WebZap to a quick wireframe then refine it with your own Photoshop skills.</p> <p>We wished WebZap had an option to use Photoshop CS6′s Paragraph/Character styles instead of their own system and we’re hoping for to see more layout styles and UI elements in their future updates.</p> <p>The best part about WebZap is that you can mix navigations, headers, content, and amazingly fast. This lets you play around with different layouts to find one that fits your project or generate several layout mockups in minutes so that your client can pick a layout and let you focus on the design. 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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVRxkNxMrLzFsC598_g8O1CKq7RDbTZvJppnF0519yA1Spj6psaLAdM0i8yr1ELFFAJC8SAx46ddy7iPweMCDvrHcJ93cXqsAsLCFUnD4G_btaeC13t0b1K-qTN1jPQ7Jg45-W9SZ4_dHK/s1600/Guide+to+Use+Autofocus+on+Digital+Camera.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVRxkNxMrLzFsC598_g8O1CKq7RDbTZvJppnF0519yA1Spj6psaLAdM0i8yr1ELFFAJC8SAx46ddy7iPweMCDvrHcJ93cXqsAsLCFUnD4G_btaeC13t0b1K-qTN1jPQ7Jg45-W9SZ4_dHK/s320/Guide+to+Use+Autofocus+on+Digital+Camera.jpg" width="166" /></a></div>
<b>Autofocus on Intelligent camera lens</b> continue focus on the subject you shoot, and can mean the difference between a pointy and a missed opportunity.
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Once you do lots of action photography it is best to find out each nuance of your autofocus system. then This tutorial gonna explain guide to supposed to work autofocus on your digital camera.<br />
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On 1985 Minolta launch first <i><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/06/guide-to-use-autofocus-system-on.html">autofocus SLR camera</a></i> and have become a revolutionized the world of photography - <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Minolta_Maxxum_7000">the Maxxum 7000</a>, except for a short period of time. At that time my eyes were faster and additional accurate than the combination of camera and lens as possible. fast forward to 2012 and there's no method I could return to manual focus. however despite the wonderful advances in today's bodies and lenses, several photographers don't recognize all <b>AF functions</b> to take advantage of current models. I do lots of action and bird photography therefore it was for me to find out all the nuances of my <u>autofocus system</u>. read on to get the most effective of you.<br />
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<h3>
Set the right point of focus:</h3>
There is alittle square which is the active focus point within the viewfinder. In most cameras, after you press the shutter button and move the switch on the rear of the body, the point of focus to be moved. E 'is imperative that this approach is that the focal point of the subject, particularly if it's to work in low lightweight conditions with the goal wide open. as an example, if you're writing an image of a pregnant lady and also the centrality of the abdomen, is likely to face to the depth of field when the lens is open. Shift attention from his face and the fire. Ever mindful of the focal plane to be crucial and move the focus point to that location.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYPXkXJJz3DXSjG4uoz4E-Qd80vCX4m-e4IVQ21c-jo01PV2J6-pqNEot7gX5RUHftdV38usCWfyqxBe6ocT58JhIByEPqILvxijtHOeKwdmXc05YvlqEjSF5Byv1T_nrYZhfLzRpyMkaw/s1600/Guide+to+Use+Autofocus+on+Digital+Camera.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYPXkXJJz3DXSjG4uoz4E-Qd80vCX4m-e4IVQ21c-jo01PV2J6-pqNEot7gX5RUHftdV38usCWfyqxBe6ocT58JhIByEPqILvxijtHOeKwdmXc05YvlqEjSF5Byv1T_nrYZhfLzRpyMkaw/s1600/Guide+to+Use+Autofocus+on+Digital+Camera.jpg" /></a></div>
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<h3>
Continuous or single</h3>
Several cameras provide a possibility for the user to override the <b>autofocus system </b>if the image isn't focus. it's a continuous release / power / release priority etc - depends on the brand cameras you've got. Continuous mode works well in subjects moving erratically within the viewfinder. i use it all the time, if you shoot at any moving object. the idea is, though you'll get blurry pictures is the autofocus system in step with the movement and sharp pictures. the choice could be a single mode if allowe shutter speed when the camera detect sharp focus. If the subject doesn't move, it works fine. All of my image for portraits and wedding during this mode. within the case of a single mode, the camera determines if the shutter can be released and in Continuous the photographer overrides the decision of the camera.<br />
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<h3>
Start Far and Let it Happen</h3>
If the action is delivered to you on this subject, block onto the subject it’s far away. In continuous mode the camera will follow the speed with which the subject moves to "learn" and with their pace. As part widens taking in frame. don't stop till it's <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2010/11/making-good-crop.html" target="_blank">cropp important parts of the subject</a>. I do that all the time when i am photographing birds in flight. If you recognize where the action is executed, focusing before on an object at the same plane therefore the lens doesn’t have far to search when the subject appears. <br />
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<h3>
The central AF point is the best</h3>
For action shots, always lock using the central AF point. however they're also in continuous mode and choose an average variety of ranges. the reason why the center is by far the foremost delicate point of the system. In continuous mode, since the subject is approximately, then I compose the image so that the subject isn't dead center within the frame. Beauty is usually "hands off" the tracking to different focus points whereas I recompose the subject. It takes observe to do the recomposing, however it’s well worth the effort and result.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb9OKovNvS6hH_gbiup2wWGM9Z2eJBSd6hI29cWT-lbDun_aXvrPmheFRA8bMFZRKv-s4vefii78p7bNTNpEUPxatW7vjAhdU0gjbRj9QfM670-YmCln2b0tp4VnFgNtXQrhVR_7Ouqgir/s1600/Guide+to+Use+Autofocus+on+Digital+Camera.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb9OKovNvS6hH_gbiup2wWGM9Z2eJBSd6hI29cWT-lbDun_aXvrPmheFRA8bMFZRKv-s4vefii78p7bNTNpEUPxatW7vjAhdU0gjbRj9QfM670-YmCln2b0tp4VnFgNtXQrhVR_7Ouqgir/s1600/Guide+to+Use+Autofocus+on+Digital+Camera.jpg" /></a></div>
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<h3>
The limitation of the lens</h3>
A series of <b>AF lenses </b>have a Limit Focus. If you recognize the subject won't be in your area, make certain to set the target for the marker to infinity. the explanation for this is that when the subject is out of focus whereas tracing, unnecessarily attempt the entire range of <i>AF lens system</i>. as a results of relocking the new one is far more efficient. The AF switch is sometimes found on giant telephoto lenses.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOhidFmLVbO47Vr38WPHbmVYDYFzO8mXx28poyL_TEZDQZz6oa7QOFO7cYQfdp4jC7-MXhDnYGUw1yLdzWi0glzSyjMUqXgZ9yCgzy80_an2PYmzvh4ZKfEamDkBtyRAZ40zVOGq51lNql/s1600/Guide+to+Use+Autofocus+on+Digital+Camera.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOhidFmLVbO47Vr38WPHbmVYDYFzO8mXx28poyL_TEZDQZz6oa7QOFO7cYQfdp4jC7-MXhDnYGUw1yLdzWi0glzSyjMUqXgZ9yCgzy80_an2PYmzvh4ZKfEamDkBtyRAZ40zVOGq51lNql/s1600/Guide+to+Use+Autofocus+on+Digital+Camera.jpg" /></a></div>
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<h3>
Turn Off Stabilization</h3>
Image stabilization work excellent when it's required, however several photographers who have it all the time. you do not need all the time for two reasons:<br />
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a) if the action is triggered, you may use a fast shutter speed. The shutter speed causes every camera movement. All it does is through gyroscopes and eats the battery.<br />
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b) The image stabilization system can slow down the AF a little. "If the action is moving fast, i need the AF horsepower I can get so I leave it off.<br />
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Integrating the above techniques in your workflow and look forward to many additional keepers within the future.<br />
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Article Resource : <a href="http://www.takegreatpictures.com/" rel="no follow">http://www.takegreatpictures.com/</a>Sugeng Ariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04530677626306210126noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1452076430190225984.post-29800335219960052182012-05-24T07:50:00.000-07:002012-05-24T08:08:01.620-07:00Guide to Extreme Shallow Depth of Field<h3>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgymu-_zZtIWPW7-AIlv1MIQbU2hUhPiVV5_7mkZt40Ivvn8xaFHEULsh1Usnq7SNCAo1NjxGyJWGCHZEM6HT6QkM7-GLAaRt5IwB0IAMiZK5ycGcr-jYcSL6024atx5Vr3ZzIDZfPZl-7m/s1600/Shallow_DOF.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Guide to Extreme Shallow Depth of Field" border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgymu-_zZtIWPW7-AIlv1MIQbU2hUhPiVV5_7mkZt40Ivvn8xaFHEULsh1Usnq7SNCAo1NjxGyJWGCHZEM6HT6QkM7-GLAaRt5IwB0IAMiZK5ycGcr-jYcSL6024atx5Vr3ZzIDZfPZl-7m/s200/Shallow_DOF.jpg" title="Guide to Extreme Shallow Depth of Field" width="166" /></a> What Depth of Field is ?</h3>
DOF or <b>depth of field</b> is an abbreviation for an outline of what proportion of your image is in focus.
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A <i>depth of field</i> means simply that a specific area of the image is tack sharp, whereas different parts stay unclear.<br />
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Depth of Field in your Photographs</h3>
One of the most uses of degrees of freedom is to focus on the topic, reducing the impact of disorder of the bottom annoying. These may also be used in the majority types of photography, portraits, sports, photojournalism, close to macro and use of all the <b>shallow DOF</b>. Personally i prefer the effect, such that nearly never take an image that doesn't use some kind ofthis method. the essential rule is that if you wish look great, use <b>shallow depth of field</b> .<br />
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Get Shallow Depth of Field</h3>
To get a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth_of_field" target="_blank"><i>Shallow Depth of Field </i></a> is to set the f-stop as small as possible. the smaller the aperture f-stop will be greater, the larger the aperture the background will appear blurred, so the best way to <u>shallow dof</u> by starting at the lowest f-stop. began by experimenting on the f-stop is by putting the lowest f-stop, then take a picture, then raise one stop, and take a picture again, then you can compare the results, the experiment will facilitate you to understand the<b> Shallow Depth of Field</b> . other things that influential is the ISO, the higher, the lower the depth of field on the image, so it set the ISO as small as possible, in this case the aperture is the most important thing to be set. <br />
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Use Shallow Depth of Field</h3>
The most common and easy way to use <u>shallow depth of field </u> is bring the foreground part into focus and blur the background. a nice example of this can be the image below.<br />
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Whereas the vast majority of the image is out of focus you are eyes are immediately drawn to our webbed friend. If our background were in sharp focus he would be immediately lost within the background. after all every photograph is completely different for each scenario however the essential plan is to get all or most of your subject in focus and the maximum amount of your background out of focus as possible. now there are cases where you simply wish to isolate a particular part of your subject to bring importance to it as within the 2nd image to the correct. during this example the area of focus is the sharp looking edge of the flower, at the same time the main body remains blurred.<br />
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This brings immediate attention of your viewer to the part we want to indicate, the sharp edge in this case. you can realize as time goes on that you will get better at identifying when to use DOF and how much to use it. keep in mind if overused it will distract from the whole image, you do not need a complete blur. Another less common use for <b>shallow Depth of Field</b> is to own part of the foreground out of focus, then sharp subject, then out of focus background. this can be one of the most effective techniques if used properly. The result it gives is one of clear separation between the elements of the photo and when interpreted by the mind it really adds to the realism of your two dimensional photograph. <br />
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Shallow Depth of Field in Photojournalism and Portrait</h3>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieLxoz6UzbYxgXiL8XzW0hA0BFDQEugLoZx8oH7ZnF5vGkw4CQpkmKYICdW1VuTjuKDgiHdVczCE9ZbI-_s0Xqqv_V_nufkw8OURFn-GZmwlpKDyoAYjqAXoL9sb9ub1uW_gRtSJ9yw75e/s1600/Shallow_DOF.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Guide to Extreme Shallow Depth of Field" border="0" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieLxoz6UzbYxgXiL8XzW0hA0BFDQEugLoZx8oH7ZnF5vGkw4CQpkmKYICdW1VuTjuKDgiHdVczCE9ZbI-_s0Xqqv_V_nufkw8OURFn-GZmwlpKDyoAYjqAXoL9sb9ub1uW_gRtSJ9yw75e/s320/Shallow_DOF.jpg" title="Guide to Extreme Shallow Depth of Field" width="320" /></a>Portrait photography and photojournalism are some of the major styles of photography you want to use <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/05/guide-to-extreme-shallow-depth-of-field.html"><b>shallow Depth of Field</b></a> . This is a useful tool for telling stories and, as in all other uses, which draws attention to the desired position. Imagine a natural environment where a person chooses a river, sniffing with a smile on his face as a kid. It may have little <i>depth of field</i> in many ways to use here, and it is likely that both the flower and some or most of the face in focus, for example, 2/3rds of a look. This effectively says, "Hey, put your attention on the interaction, forget the rest.Another way would be to move the only flower in the center and let the person as a blur in the background, probably a nearly opposite straight. the example is that of an abstract and artistic history. a final interpretation might be to put an end to the flower in the foreground and the feeling that the person is experiencing. This lends itself to a ratio of image interpretation.<br />
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Shallow Depth of Field in Abstract Photography</h3>
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An important aspect of the applications may be blurred or surreal. With a goal of good quality and an eye for art in nature, you can really find a way to distort reality and put your mind in the picture. I do not go too deep, because this is the area where you should determine what is happening. Some techniques are only elements combine to present a sort of photographic oil painting as an example the picture on the right side. You also get a good effect for high-contrast patterns in the background, like sunlight through the leaves with a fast track in the foreground as a flower or a super-model in the way you like.<br />
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During your experience in photography you will presented with many tools and techniques to tell your stories. Although it is not the only way to tell a story, I think you will find that the <b>depth of field</b> is one of the most useful techniques you really need for almost style in photography.<br />
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Related Article :<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/02/how-to-control-depth-of-field.html">How to control Depth of Field</a> </li>
<li><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/06/photoshop-tutorial-to-create-realistic.html">How to Create Realistic Depth of Field in Photoshop</a></li>
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Article from <a href="http://www.emmettlollis.com/" target="_blank">http://www.emmettlollis.com/ </a>Sugeng Ariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04530677626306210126noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1452076430190225984.post-60467313803000398112012-05-22T21:23:00.000-07:002012-05-22T21:33:41.342-07:00Best technique to shoot whole room panoramic photos using 35mm lenses<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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There are many options for camera to <b>capture panorama image</b>,Unfortunately some with most expensive and priced out of reach for most people and used just for specialized tools rather then general.
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The Hasselblad X-pan and Fuji 617 medium format camera is one of a popular camera for panorama as the ability to combine two images into a single 35mm frame.<br />
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The good news today is that you don't need to spend much money to buy cameras and special lenses to <b>shoot panoramic image</b>, with a little trick using a 35mm lens that you already have, combining some of the frame 35mm in a panoramic format using software to <i>create panoramic image</i>. This article will explain the process of making high-resolution <a href="http://boingboing.net/2010/11/16/80-gigapixel-london.html" target="_blank"> panoramic image</a> using a 35mm frame.<br />
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Keys to produce good panoramas is to set up your equipment meticulously before taking the primary frame. an ideal set-up before shooting can create the stitching significantly easier later. Here are some easy steps to follow to get nice panoramas:
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<ul>
<li>Place the tripod should be leveled perfectly. several tripods have alittle bubble level to enable this. ensure that the bubble is perfectly targeted. a completely level tripod will enable the panning to be perfectly horizontal with no vertical offset between the various photos which will be used to create the panorama.</li>
<li>Purpose the camera at the tallest space that you simply need to capture and choose a focal length lens that enables you to capture the tallest component. If you're using a zoom lens, zoom to the correct focal length to get the tallest object within the frame. you may need to leave a small degree extra space to permit for perfecting the final crop later.</li>
<li>Compose the shot on the tallest part of the panorama and then level the camera perfectly within the horizontal axis (left to right). A bubble level that clips into your hot-shoe comes in terribly handy here. As a less correct different, a gridded focusing screen will be used. Again, this leveling step is imperative in order that the different pictures have good registration with one another for later stitching. Lock your tripod heads ball or the vertical control on a tilt and pan head tight so your leveled panorama system isn't compromised. At this time, you'll be able to freely swing the camera left and right using the pan control on your tripod head.</li>
<li>If your shot needs the use of a split neutral density filter you may need to set it up at this time. find the area in your pan which will require the split ND filter to possess its graduation set at the lowest purpose in the image. Set your filter for this space. always keep in mind to use your depth of field preview button to accurately place the filter.</li>
<li>Meter the scene in no matter mode you would normally meter it in however ensure you take your meter reading off of the brightest section of your panorama to avoid overexposure. this can be especially necessary if you're using transparency film or digital film as these media are not tolerant of overexposure. Lock that meter reading into the camera in MANUAL exposure mode. it's important not to use auto-exposure when doing panoramas as you wish the shutter speed and aperture to remain constant for eachframe. If you do not try this, stitching along frames of various brightness or depth of field is very difficult.</li>
<li>Work from left to right as each film and digital pictures are indexed from left to right – it simply makes it easier after you assemble the final image. Compose your first shot at the far left and press the shutter whereas committing a feature along the correct edge to memory.</li>
<li>Pan the camera to the right and ensure you leave at least {20|twenty} to 25th of overlap area in each frame referencing off of the feature you committed to memory within the first frame. If you utilize a grid type focusing screen, using the rightmost and leftmost vertical grid makes a good reference purpose and permits for lots of overlap. Continue taking shots till you have completed the sequence. Note that in rapidly changing light-weight, it's important to finish your work as quickly as possible. this can be another reason to form positive you have everything set-up perfectly ahead of time. </li>
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Some photographer <b><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/05/best-technique-to-shoot-whole-room.html">create panoramic image</a> </b>in landscape view. Although this is effective, may cause very narrow with a vertical view panoramic restricted. An alternative method is to take pictures in portrait mode. This has two important advantages. In the first place, there are 1.5 times as much information and then, the vertical resolution. Secondly, a focal length used to induce the perspective distortion less. If possible, I recommend you stay away from the focal lengths of less than about 35 mm, if you shoot in portrait or 28 mm when shooting in landscape mode, for any angle on the vertical axis (up and down) with a distorted view of the stitching to make the process difficult.<br />
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More suggestion! Do not use a polarizer in the days with blue skies. The polarizer darkens the sky, although most in a 90 degree angle to the sun. Since you're going to take a picture that usually takes a substantial arc of the sky can appear unnaturally dark areas where the camera is left with an angle of 90 degrees in the sun. If you want to darken the sky, instead of using a <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/06/understanding-neutral-density-filters.html" target="_blank">neutral density filter</a> division.</div>
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Once you processing the slides and scan, or use images from the digital storage medium, it is time to unite. There are many ways, but this is by far the simplest and most effective way to do this is with a program called ArcSoft Panorama Maker 3 ($ 40 - www.arcsoft.com) do. This software automates many functions of sewing, including the search for <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/05/best-way-to-understand-exposure-and.html" target="_blank">optimal exposure</a>, and sutures between frames. Sometimes in low contrast / detail situations, help you find the best stitches, but still makes the process much easier than any other method. A further advantage of the Maker Panorama 3 is not limited to vertical linear network. The software is a reproduction of the transparent, even if the transition is a curve optimal, in a zig-zag or otherwise. You can also replace the key points that the selected program. The program will issue a TIFF file, which can then be loaded into an editing program like Photoshop popular image can then be processed normally.<br />
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Other way, you can use your image editing software to use the images together manually, but this is much more work. This is achieved by dividing each frame into a single document as a separate layer. Here are their intersections until you see the result you get. With the guides can help this process. You'll need a bit 'image processing know-how and familiarity with the program, to do well.<br />
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If the images that make up the landscape was remarkable tilt up or down, and a wide angle lens are recorded, the difficulties caused by the perspective distortion of leaflets. For example, if your 24 mm lens is slightly tilted, if you took the picture, the right point of an arc, like a smiley face from the perspective distortion. In this case, it is necessary to include the perspective of each of the individual frames in the image editing software before, fix the seams (in Photoshop: Edit> Transform> Perspective distortion). This makes the process much more difficult to record the images to each well. It 's better to keep the camera right in this situation, the perspective distortion, and later crop for purposes of composition.<br />
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With careful and precise set-up, <u>wonderful panoramic image </u>will be created with the camera equipment you already own. Before attempting this in those fleeting moments of <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/01/importance-of-light-in-photography.html" target="_blank">excellent light</a>, provides it a attempt at home. you'll set up your camera in your front yard and <b>shoot panoramic image</b> of your neighborhood to apply. go out and provides it a attempt so you may be ready to capture that magnificent scene after you are out in the field!Sugeng Ariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04530677626306210126noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1452076430190225984.post-82731656014468799972012-05-22T11:56:00.000-07:002012-11-11T11:51:10.180-08:00How To Capture Fall Colors<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkajyXxrvKVMgnM9bVjrPOAtHngO0kHiaRnL_uaO9_T7DSOBaibUbtfJEXbgeWE8JE6w2EmLDhmLhx3vOO3fvDUt4-Zoz-oSMnfP6E1I3N-D-DqmQTiCFCWvipjP5a4IqWijvwk4oTkmE/s1600/Glochidion-eriocarpum-Athym.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="How To Shoot Autumn Colours" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkajyXxrvKVMgnM9bVjrPOAtHngO0kHiaRnL_uaO9_T7DSOBaibUbtfJEXbgeWE8JE6w2EmLDhmLhx3vOO3fvDUt4-Zoz-oSMnfP6E1I3N-D-DqmQTiCFCWvipjP5a4IqWijvwk4oTkmE/s1600/Glochidion-eriocarpum-Athym.jpg" /></a></div>
<b>Colors in potography </b>will make the image brighter and more alive, thats a reason for many photographer still waiting to <b>capture fall colors</b> becomes a very colorful picture.<br />
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For maximum results, there some techniques and practices to <i>capture fall colors</i> look charming. following article will explain tips on autumn colours , accompanied by examples of images that can be your inspiration.<br />
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<u>Planning for fall color</u></h2>
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The first factor you would like to do is set up your location. If travelling domestically, you've got the advantage of visiting the place more and more. If you travel abroad or cross-country, however, then you may need some plane before departure some best locations to go to for <b>call colors </b>and therefore the best time inside the autumn season.
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Other factor you have to recollect is weather condition. Going to rain for the whole day is pointless to go . if you're planning for capture a sunrise or sunset, you need to remember times for sunrise and sunset. arrange your trip carefully and everything going to work simply fine.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6HbN7Heh3zKqTMEoj9g6s0yBpP-XngeibA0oEi1ONP0yfmkRM59LxiRyWnJFpwp5_N7P_6VszJIhwTzij6bLJvrZfjFni6MslTk-8rI3lgRxgn4j1rexeRGj52ifra_qXAVPg7733Lko/s1600/geishaboy500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="How To Shoot Autumn Colours" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6HbN7Heh3zKqTMEoj9g6s0yBpP-XngeibA0oEi1ONP0yfmkRM59LxiRyWnJFpwp5_N7P_6VszJIhwTzij6bLJvrZfjFni6MslTk-8rI3lgRxgn4j1rexeRGj52ifra_qXAVPg7733Lko/s1600/geishaboy500.jpg" /></a></div>
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<u>Time when capture</u></h2>
You may hear several photographers saying that the most effective time of day is around sunrise, others like sunset. the actual fact is that the vast majority will visit throughout the day.<br />
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For times, there is no rule for that to <b><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/05/how-to-capture-fall-colors.html">capture fall colors</a></b>. throughout the first morning hours, you're a lot of lucky with mist. during sunset you may probably experience beautiful aspect lighting and during the day, lightweight beams in a forest returning from above or gorgeous subtle light during a cloudy day. the selection is yours to be there on no matter time you want. One issue is definite, select the situation carefully and you'rein for an enormous surprise.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJYuPK3SYI2GmhYGScbxPy6F0g16QxfozoiKOKC5ttb7c168PG91lHV5gPD7OaXgH0kjDzAgqx_K5hIqfc22rSJtmNsKaW6wGuBctVCmY54VpQ8qGDFFjFvmL2u75KpxjrTzTN8Y7St-I/s1600/emmaemmaemma2242.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="How To Shoot Autumn Colours" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJYuPK3SYI2GmhYGScbxPy6F0g16QxfozoiKOKC5ttb7c168PG91lHV5gPD7OaXgH0kjDzAgqx_K5hIqfc22rSJtmNsKaW6wGuBctVCmY54VpQ8qGDFFjFvmL2u75KpxjrTzTN8Y7St-I/s1600/emmaemmaemma2242.jpg" /></a></div>
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<u>Equipment nou may need</u></h2>
You don't need an upscale camera and lens, simply the one you own can do the work nicely. Our recommendation would be to use some of the following equipment to <u>capture fall colors</u>:<br />
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<li><b><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/06/tips-for-buying-tripods.html">Tripod</a></b>: If in the woods, you are more likely to experience slow shutter speeds in which case, a tripod will be a necessity. Is that the only reason? Of course not. A tripod will slow you down and this in return, will <b>greatly help with your compositions</b>. Slow down and think about your compositions and take your time to make sure they are all spot on.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b>Circular Polarizing Filter</b>: This is the best filter you will need for capturing Autumn colours. It will not only supply your images with vibrant colours, it will also take away any glare from wet surfaces.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b>Umbrella</b>: This will come in handy not just in case it rains but also in the case you need to diffuse the light off a small area.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b>Padded mat</b>: Remember that you might have to spend time on your knees, this will offer some comfort and extend shooting times.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><b><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/04/macro-photography-lets-get-started.html">Macro Lens</a>:</b> If you own one, it can come in very handy as there is plenty of close up photography to be had.</li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg21iDsrx3nggrgc1-HNq5rr3iRjJ7Zadfk55D_A8XgjuC2kEQzvhe8OSjzEDqU4yDS_R0NFF70TCtYoR2FSZp0Q9EkPFQFWc6Wz8QI6vdPbWXy3z6FBseSnviThEU2S5eUgvLZA0xI2iE/s1600/wyolight.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="How To Shoot Autumn Colours" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg21iDsrx3nggrgc1-HNq5rr3iRjJ7Zadfk55D_A8XgjuC2kEQzvhe8OSjzEDqU4yDS_R0NFF70TCtYoR2FSZp0Q9EkPFQFWc6Wz8QI6vdPbWXy3z6FBseSnviThEU2S5eUgvLZA0xI2iE/s1600/wyolight.jpg" /></a></div>
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<h2>
<u>What to shoot and what to look for:</u></h2>
Here we have added a list of things to look for, accompanied with some lovely images.<br />
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Compose so that the surrounding areas / background are darker and/or dissimilar colors, so that the <b>fall colors really stand out</b>.<br />
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<h2>
<u>Aspens And Other Trees</u></h2>
A stand of Aspens is always a delight to photograph, especially when they are bathed with golden early morning or late evening light. Also, Aspen leaves offer one of the most <b>stunning colour in nature’s palette</b>.<br />
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<h2>
<u>Solitary Trees</u></h2>
Solitary or stand <b>alone</b> <b>trees can be a superb subject</b> as they provide you with an almost blank canvas <b>full of colour</b>. Make sure you allow for enough breathing space around the tree in the frame. Their colour works well in combination with green grass and blue sky. (Related Article :<i><b><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/09/tree-photography-techniques.html">Tree Photography Techniques</a></b></i>)<br />
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<h2>
<u>Stormy Weather</u></h2>
Keep an eye on these sudden stormy patterns in weather. They do not only bring rain but also mood, stunning light changes, rainbows and many more surprises. (Related Article:<a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/01/digital-photography-in-rain.html"> <i><b>How to Photograph in the Rain</b></i></a>)<br />
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<h2>
<u>Hit The Floor</u></h2>
Get down low and put that ultra wide angle lens to test and of course, why not try a strange angle by using a fisheye lens? (Relate Article:<i><b><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2010/11/5-ways-to-get-creative-with-fisheye.html">Get Creative with a Fisheye Lens</a></b></i>).<br />
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<h2>
<u>Combine Colours</u></h2>
Move closer or zoom in on those beautiful details. Combine colours, contrast, textures and patterns. (Related Article:<a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/01/tips-on-photographing-household-objects.html"> <i><b>Tips on photographing household objects</b></i></a>).<br />
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<h2>
<u>Get Closer, Use A Macro Lens</u></h2>
<b>Use macro lens </b>you have in your bag and hasn’t been used for ages. <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/10/get-close-model-phototgraphy.html">Get in close</a> and isolate your subject. <b>Create a beautiful design </b>and use shallow depth of field to emphasise details. (Related Article:<i><b><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/04/macro-photography-lets-get-started.html">Macro Photography, lets get started</a></b></i>).<br />
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<h2>
<u>No Need To Go Far</u></h2>
Remember that some times, you do not have to go far to catch the Autumns colours, they can also be found in your house. We need to remember that many of us for any reason, can’t get out or not fully mobile. For all those people we have one word to say, improvise, create your own Autumn colours. You can pick up a leaf or two from the garden or even a bunch of things from the veg basket.<br />
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<h2>
<u>A Walk In The Park</u></h2>
Some times your local park can be a great source of inspiration as there is more than you think all around, all you need to do is open your eyes and start looking for various subjects like: Trees in a row, scattered leaves on the ground and so on.<br />
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<h2>
<u>Reflections</u></h2>
Many parks, woods, little forests or even out in the grand open spaces include some sort of pool, little lake or any other water feature. We should not forget the importance of water in <b>Autumn colour photography</b> and the amount of creativity it can offer. Even <b>colour reflected can create stunning images</b>, without the foliage being even seen.<br />
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<h2>
<u>Visit A Vineyard</u></h2>
Many of us live in countries that produce grapes and wine. Don’t forget to visit a vineyard near by, Autumn is the season for grape picking and human activity and colours are the order of the day.<br />
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<h2>
Grand Vistas</h2>
And finally, we shouldn’t forget the grand vistas, the ones that every landscape photographer dreams and constantly talks about. Approach them with the same care that you would any other time of year.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0T4qJrkKK7eShW0g9W0QBUSHNJ5NdXd28XxpGZGvLi6Ejg9DG4B_l1EZSBqsaKvWKUJ2ew6mPvRd2Obl3Sa7OorBOdpNLdbnFC4i5JVlM9Y9QVLSmD0rr8VXr20FgSUsDAB4F1lY4lPg/s1600/Timothy-K-Hamilton.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="How To Shoot Autumn Colours" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0T4qJrkKK7eShW0g9W0QBUSHNJ5NdXd28XxpGZGvLi6Ejg9DG4B_l1EZSBqsaKvWKUJ2ew6mPvRd2Obl3Sa7OorBOdpNLdbnFC4i5JVlM9Y9QVLSmD0rr8VXr20FgSUsDAB4F1lY4lPg/s1600/Timothy-K-Hamilton.jpg" /></a></div>
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Keep all this advice in mind, get out there and have fun.<br />
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Source Article and Images: <a href="http://landscapephotographymagazine.com/">http://landscapephotographymagazine.com </a>Sugeng Ariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04530677626306210126noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1452076430190225984.post-29013671544168546632012-05-18T21:41:00.000-07:002012-05-18T22:04:44.680-07:00All in one zoom lenses Pros and Cons<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw5MaQxp8ea69IhyphenhyphensLgavWTfz_Hx4G2fDVg_WKUubivt7xOdLQQ6VhaK07NPgwnUPDKS9kmmdjfXyiONGdT1i-D-o3VEPie6o40newcng2IwHnVo7EXrSZdSudcKFORSs_BkW6Wyp92oVV/s1600/All+in+one+zoom+lenses.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="All in one zoom lenses" border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw5MaQxp8ea69IhyphenhyphensLgavWTfz_Hx4G2fDVg_WKUubivt7xOdLQQ6VhaK07NPgwnUPDKS9kmmdjfXyiONGdT1i-D-o3VEPie6o40newcng2IwHnVo7EXrSZdSudcKFORSs_BkW6Wyp92oVV/s320/All+in+one+zoom+lenses.jpg" width="166" /></a><b>All in-one zoom lens</b> - Having a single lens to cover everything from ultrawide to strong <i>telephoto </i>is incredibly appealing, but how well do these extreme zooms perform in a variety of situations? We’ll show you where the trade-offs are.
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<a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/05/tips-for-wildlife-safari-photography.html" target="_blank">For outdoor photographers</a>, the <i>all in one zoom lens</i> provide great benefits due to the power of a <b>telephoto</b> lens in wide angle, but the size is lightweight and versatile, All in one zoom is very easy to pack in a smaller bag. if you have to choose a lens that can handle almost any situation, then a<b> superzoom lens</b> could be your consideration, here are the pros and cons.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiF1rv7M9dGPYBE3ySu7LHe6TgVmxf8YIum0jfp32rSnKmCSF1TK3T7oPbJBBgA1lOolfM52d20yd3N71tByKfXrBCO11YSnSV0KWrUamtqyfqvlYPBIaiHwGHAKACD3PK8KnmjefP6Gwd/s1600/All+in+one+zoom+lenses.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="All in one zoom lenses" border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiF1rv7M9dGPYBE3ySu7LHe6TgVmxf8YIum0jfp32rSnKmCSF1TK3T7oPbJBBgA1lOolfM52d20yd3N71tByKfXrBCO11YSnSV0KWrUamtqyfqvlYPBIaiHwGHAKACD3PK8KnmjefP6Gwd/s400/All+in+one+zoom+lenses.jpg" width="376" /></a></div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="">PROS: <b>Focal-Length Flexibility</b><br />a wide range of focal lengths in an exceedingly single lens clearly is incredibly convenient. a single superzoom might cover all of your desires when you are traveling or hiking within the outdoors. you will not miss shots due to you did not have the correct lens on the camera when the <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/">photo</a> op occurred—zooming to the proper focal length is far quicker than changing lenses within the heat of instantly, and it's usually easier than changing your position. Also, these <b>All in one zooms </b>provide you with the flexibility to shoot a wide-angle landscape and then zoom in on wildlife in a second. The focal-length flexibility is that the strongest single advantage of an <i>All in one zoom</i>."</span></span><br />
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="">CONS:</span></span><b> Not Sharp</b><br />
The main downside to <b>All in one zooms</b> is that they aren't quite as sharp
at any given focal length as a shorter-range pro zoom or a prime lens
of that focal length. Each focal length creates its own aberrations and
distortions, and requires its own solutions. It's tough enough to
minimize these problems for a single focal length; to do it throughout a
wide range of focal lengths, especially when trying to keep bulk and
cost down, is quite a challenge. That the lens makers do it so well is a
remarkable achievement, but you should understand that there are
limitations, and you're more apt to see those limitations with today's
high-pixel-count DSLRs or mirrorless interchangeable-lens cameras. That
said, the superzooms usually perform better than the typical 18-55mm kit
zooms sold with many DSLRs, making them great alternatives or step-up
lenses.<br />
<br />
<br />
<span class="subhead" style="font-size: 14px;">PROS:</span> <b>Compact Package</b><br />
Next to focal-length flexibility, the main advantage of the <u>All in one
zooms</u> is their compactness. Most measure around 3x4 inches (diameter x
length) and weigh 15 to 20 ounces. That's remarkable considering that
they provide every focal length from true wide-angle well into <b>telephoto</b>
territory. That certainly beats carting several lenses around when you
want to travel light. For a photographer on a road trip, it also means
you don't have a large camera bag in your car tempting would-be thieves.
With just a camera body and a single lens, you can easily conceal your
gear or carry it with you everywhere you go.<br />
<br />
<span class="subhead" style="font-size: 14px;">CONS:</span> <b>Slower Than Pro Zooms</b><br />
Being slower, the superzooms don't let you limit depth of field so much,
and they produce a dimmer viewfinder image. Typical superzooms are
variable aperture, and their range is usually from ƒ/3.5 to ƒ/5.6 or
ƒ/6.3. For example, an 18-250mm ƒ/3.5-6.3 zoom has a maximum aperture of
ƒ/3.5 at 18mm, slowing to ƒ/6.3 at 250mm. The minimum aperture also
changes as you zoom; for our example lens, that's ƒ/22 at 18mm to ƒ/40
at 250mm.<br />
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That's in contrast to shorter-range pro zoom lenses, which typically
have ƒ/2.8 maximum apertures and maintain that maximum aperture
throughout their focal-length range. This makes the pro zoom much better
for shooting in dim light, especially at the longer end of its range.
An ƒ/2.8 aperture lets in twice as much light as an ƒ/4, and four times
as much light as an ƒ/5.6, for example. Faster lenses also provide a
brighter SLR viewfinder image for composing and visual focus
confirmation, and faster lenses help considerably with autofocus. And a
wider maximum aperture means you can shoot with less depth of field,
which is necessary for selective-focus images of flowers and such at the
long end of the focal-length range.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvtwnlMTrs2oG4mxejNJDP4a1o6ykSbNZ29NixMdSoRsauUCCP-QmRoI8zxlW3EL84L6JG0CfCvIjxoXalbihjFLHfa-TBvl6hqbQ86ypBSyVhwcZW-2Bm54JGBco9tDPAMEuycG4LJGkh/s1600/All+in+one+zoom+lenses.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="All in one zoom lenses" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvtwnlMTrs2oG4mxejNJDP4a1o6ykSbNZ29NixMdSoRsauUCCP-QmRoI8zxlW3EL84L6JG0CfCvIjxoXalbihjFLHfa-TBvl6hqbQ86ypBSyVhwcZW-2Bm54JGBco9tDPAMEuycG4LJGkh/s1600/All+in+one+zoom+lenses.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>We've pictured several popular models. 1) Canon EF 28-300mm
ƒ/3.5-5.6L IS USM; 2) AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm ƒ/3.5-5.6G ED VR; 3) Sigma
50-500mm F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS HSM.</i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
If your shooting style usually requires maximum depth of field and you
don't rely on fast autofocus, you may not feel the effects of a
superzoom's slow maximum aperture too much. However, if you need top
autofocus performance, the <b>all in one zoom </b>won't be an ideal choice.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9dCE1uxnt-3bJdabeVo8GHybw-VdTMDOIBIvyNq3_XPpxoHFjgeH7Em6k8yNxFqIbhR0DNFIpjO06QK17ML9gClNvded-jrG7oSlnnxB4G6sR9kfzSX2BLLDRMYgFycgvHdCZq4Vf1-PK/s1600/All+in+one+zoom+lenses.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="All in one zoom lenses" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9dCE1uxnt-3bJdabeVo8GHybw-VdTMDOIBIvyNq3_XPpxoHFjgeH7Em6k8yNxFqIbhR0DNFIpjO06QK17ML9gClNvded-jrG7oSlnnxB4G6sR9kfzSX2BLLDRMYgFycgvHdCZq4Vf1-PK/s1600/All+in+one+zoom+lenses.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>4) Canon EF-S 18-200mm ƒ/3.5-5.6 IS; 5) AF-S DX Nikkor 18-200mm ƒ/3.5-5.6G ED VR II; 6) Sigma 18-200mm F3.5-6.3 II DC OS HSM.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span class="subhead" style="font-size: 14px;">PROS:</span> <b>Good Close-Up Capability</b><br />
Most <i>all in one zooms</i> will focus down to under 20 inches, close enough
to provide 1/4 life-size images at the image plane when set to their
longest focal length. That's not true macro territory, which would be
1:1, but it's close enough to do some amazing flower and insect
portraits.<br />
<br />
<span class="subhead" style="font-size: 14px;">CON:</span> <b>Not True Macro Performance</b><br />
Besides being able to focus down to 1:1, true macro lenses are optimized
for close shooting distances. As "generalists," the <u>all in one zooms</u>
aren't as sharp as true macro lenses at close range. Superzooms are able
to focus down to 20 inches or less when set at their longest focal
length, but many of them also shorten the actual focal length as they're
focused at close range: an 18-200mm zoom set at 200mm and focused at
its minimum focusing distance actually may have a focal length of 140mm
or so. This isn't really all that significant of a problem. You don't
get the magnification you might expect from 200mm at 20 inches, but you
still get that 1/4 life-size or better magnification, and with it, good
close-up capability.<br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class=""><br /></span></span><br />
<span class="subhead" style="font-size: 14px;">PRO:</span> <b>Relatively Inexpensive</b><br />
Many of the <i>all in one zooms </i>sell at estimated street prices of under
$600, some for as little as $300. That makes them great deals in terms
of cost and versatility. If you were collecting a number of lenses to
fill the same 8x or greater superzoom focal range, you easily could
spend a couple thousand dollars or more—much more. The superzooms
incorporate low-dispersion and aspherical elements to reduce the adverse
effects of aberrations and distortions, and do a remarkably good job,
considering their cost and focal-length range. Their price makes a
superzoom a very attractive option for many photographers.<br />
<br />
<br />
<span class="subhead" style="font-size: 14px;">CON:</span> <b>You Can't Expect A $500 Lens To Perform Like A Pair Of $1,500 Lense</b>s<br />
Higher-end lenses feature better materials and construction to obtain
better optical and mechanical performance, and those cost money. You're
not going to get the most exotic optical elements and rugged,
weatherproof pro construction in a $500 superzoom.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-bHrs8YVHSg0lHFkneAt2fCY90Ygd-yWeHRlVy-kvqlKPyasueThUfVn4MAuwUv2mWNWYzDM5_Z5QV6h4H_zZgBt2TRTbJrpGjAIC8S1d08lqzKiaIwUBbOFNSDcBYVboBx_uPDF8xYwK/s1600/All+in+one+zoom+lenses.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="All in one zoom lenses" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-bHrs8YVHSg0lHFkneAt2fCY90Ygd-yWeHRlVy-kvqlKPyasueThUfVn4MAuwUv2mWNWYzDM5_Z5QV6h4H_zZgBt2TRTbJrpGjAIC8S1d08lqzKiaIwUBbOFNSDcBYVboBx_uPDF8xYwK/s1600/All+in+one+zoom+lenses.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>9) Tamron 18-270mm Di II VC PZD; 10) Olympus Zuiko Digital ED 18-180mm ƒ/3.5-6.3; 11) Sony SEL 18-200mm F/3.5-6.3.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span class="subhead" style="font-size: 14px;">PRO:</span> <b>Save Money On Filters</b><br />
If you have several lenses, each with a different diameter, you'll need a
set of filters for each sized lens, or a series of adapter rings (which
could cause vignetting when used with wide-angle settings). With a
superzoom, one of each filter type covers all of your focal lengths. You
just need one polarizer, neutral-density, grad, etc., instead of one
for each lens you have. Besides the cost savings, using one superzoom in
place of several prime lenses or shorter-range zooms means less stuff
to keep track of like filters, lens caps and cases.<br />
<br />
<span class="subhead" style="font-size: 14px;">PRO:</span> <b>Fewer Lens Changes</b><br />
A wide-range zoom means fewer lens changes in the field—and that means
less dust on the camera's sensor assembly. This is even more important
with mirrorless interchangeable-lens cameras, which don't have a DSLR's
mirror to help deflect incoming dust particles from the sensor.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="1" class="charts" style="width: 640px;"><tbody>
<tr><td align="center" colspan="8" height="33" style="background-color: black;" valign="middle"><b style="color: white; font-size: 14px;">All-In-One Zooms</b></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="left" style="background-color: #eeeeee;" valign="bottom" width="219"><b style="color: black; font-size: 11px;">FOR FULL-FRAME<br />
(also can be used on APS-C):</b></td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: #eeeeee;" valign="bottom" width="51"><b style="color: black; font-size: 11px;">Elements/<br />
Groups</b></td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: #eeeeee;" valign="bottom" width="45"><b style="color: black; font-size: 11px;">MFD</b></td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: #eeeeee;" valign="bottom" width="50"><b style="color: black; font-size: 11px;">Max<br />
Magnif.</b></td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: #eeeeee;" valign="bottom" width="43"><b style="color: black; font-size: 11px;">Filter<br />
Size</b></td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: #eeeeee;" valign="bottom" width="44"><b style="color: black; font-size: 11px;">Size<br />
(in.)</b></td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: #eeeeee;" valign="bottom" width="51"><b style="color: black; font-size: 11px;">Weight<br />
(oz.)</b></td>
<td align="left" style="background-color: #eeeeee;" valign="bottom" width="64"><b style="color: black; font-size: 11px;">Est. Street<br />
Price</b></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">Canon EF 28-300mm ƒ/3.5-5.6L IS USM</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">22/16</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">27.6 in.</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">0.30x</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">77mm </td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">3.6x7.2</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">58.9</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">$2,689</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm ƒ/3.5-5.6G ED VR</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">19/14</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">19.3 in.</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">0.32x </td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">77mm</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">3.3x4.5</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">28.2</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">$949</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">Sigma 50-500mm F/4.5-6.3 DG OS HSM</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">20/16</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">19.7 in</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">0.32x </td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">95mm</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">4.1x8.6</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">69.5</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">$1,659</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">Tamron 28-200mm F/3.8-5.6 XR Di</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">15/14 </td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">19.3 in</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">0.25x</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">62mm</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">2.8x3.0</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">12.5</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">$299</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">Tamron 28-300mm F/3.5-6.3 XR Di</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">12/9</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">19.3 in</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">0.34x</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">62mm</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">2.9x3.3</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">14.8</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">$419</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">Tamron 28-300mm F/3.5-6.3 XR Di VC LD</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">12/9</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">19.3 in</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">0.33x</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">67mm</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">3.1x3.9</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">19.4</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">$629</td>
</tr>
<tr style="background-color: #eeeeee;">
<td colspan="8" style="font-size: 10px;" valign="top"><b>FOR APS-C ONLY:</b></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">Canon EF-S 18-200mm ƒ/3.5-5.6 IS</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">16/12</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">17.6 in.</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">0.24x</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">72mm </td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">3.1x4.0</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">20.1</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">$699</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">AF-S DX Nikkor 18-200mm ƒ/3.5-5.6G ED VR II </td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">16/12</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">19.2 in.</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">0.22x</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">72mm</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">3.0x3.8</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">19.8</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">$849</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">Sigma 18-200mm F/3.5-6.3 DC</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">15/13</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">17.7 in.</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">0.23x</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">62mm</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">2.8x3.1</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">14.3</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">$279</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">Sigma 18-200mm F/3.5-6.3 II DC OS HSM</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">18/13</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">17.7 in.</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">0.26x</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">72mm</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">3.1x3.9</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">21.5</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">$499</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">Sigma 18-250mm F/3.5-6.3 DC OS HSM</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">18/14</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">17.7 in.</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">0.29x </td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">72mm</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">3.1x4.0</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">22.2</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">$479</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">Sony DT 18-200mm ƒ/3.5-6.3</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">15/13</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">19.2 in.</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">0.27x</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">62mm</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">2.9x3.4</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">14.0</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">$549</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">Sony DT 18-250mm ƒ/3.5-6.3</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">16/13</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">19.2 in.</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">0.29x</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">62mm</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">3.0x3.4</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">15.5</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">$649</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">Tamron AF18-200mm F/3.5-6.3 XR Di II LD</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">15/13</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">17.7 in.</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">0.27x</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">62mm</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">2.9x3.3</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">14.0</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">$299</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">Tamron AF18-270mm Di II VC PZD</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">16/13</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">19.3 in.</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">0.26x</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">62mm</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">2.9x3.5</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">15.9</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">$649</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">Tokina AT-X 16.5-135mm ƒ/3.5-5.6 DX </td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">15/9</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">19.7 in.</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">0.19x</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">77mm</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">3.5x3.1</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">21.5</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">$299</td>
</tr>
<tr style="background-color: white;">
<td colspan="8" style="font-size: 10px;" valign="top"><b>FOR FOUR THIRDS SYSTEM:</b></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">Olympus Zuiko Digital ED 18-180mm ƒ/3.5-6.3</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">15/13</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">17.6 in.</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">0.23x</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">62mm</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">3.1x3.3</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">15.3</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">$499</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="8" style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top"><b>FOR MICRO FOUR THIRDS SYSTEM:</b></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">Olympus M. Zuiko Digital 14-150mm ƒ/4.0-5.6</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">13/10</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">36.0 in.</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">0.16x</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">58mm</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">2.5x3.3</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">18.5</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">$299</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">Panasonic Lumix G Vario HD 14-140mm ƒ/4.0-5.8</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">17/13</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">19.7 in.</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">0.20x</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">62mm</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">2.8x3.3</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">16.2</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">$649</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="8" style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top"><b>FOR SONY NEX:</b></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">Sony SEL 18-200mm F/3.5-6.3</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">15/13</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">12.0 in</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">0.27x</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">67mm </td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">3.0x4.0</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">18.5</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">$898</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">Tamron 18-200mm F/3.5-6.3 Di III VC</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">17/13</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">19.7 in.</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">0.27x</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">62mm</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">2.7x3.8</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">16.2</td>
<td style="background-color: white; font-size: 10px;" valign="top">$739</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Key:
MFD: Minimum focusing distance
Max. Magnif: Maximum magnification; 1.0x equals life-size, 0.25x equals ¼ life-size (at the image plane)<br />
<br />
The chart above lists currently available <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/05/all-in-one-zoom-lenses-pros-and-cons.html">all in one zooms</a> (8x and greater) from the major camera brands.<br />
<br />
Source Article : <a href="http://www.outdoorphotographer.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.outdoorphotographer.com/ </a>Sugeng Ariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04530677626306210126noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1452076430190225984.post-88899037225415415102012-05-17T05:52:00.000-07:002012-05-17T05:58:44.556-07:00Simplicity Way Capturing Maternity Photo<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin3oD1_dfMXlQJsIzvcmJIs8dkZmDd0xYvzwWom716Y2A6MIlvXyEmri8rEjDyg3MDBz9EM6R0Ubery0dxnbe5jgATAS_o8axlzPXQ4Re8KcdmkwsXVXyeW-lZJ0iN1Fk8WtisjeDOIOyN/s1600/Capturing+Maternity+Photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Capturing Maternity Photo" border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin3oD1_dfMXlQJsIzvcmJIs8dkZmDd0xYvzwWom716Y2A6MIlvXyEmri8rEjDyg3MDBz9EM6R0Ubery0dxnbe5jgATAS_o8axlzPXQ4Re8KcdmkwsXVXyeW-lZJ0iN1Fk8WtisjeDOIOyN/s200/Capturing+Maternity+Photo.jpg" width="166" /></a></div>
There is always a way to make <b>maternity photos</b> look beautiful and detailed though a simple manner, location, clothing, the results obtained can be kept in the exploration.
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<a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/05/simplicity-way-capturing-maternity.html">maternity photos</a> are very good to keep simple due to the mother look busy prepares a baby arrive so the time to produce an image are seen to be less remarkable or mother doesn't have more energy to stand up several hours in the shooting. The following article will explain simple <i>ways to <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/05/simplicity-way-capturing-maternity.html">capture maternity photos</a></i>.
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6TGLYc916iyg_AWCNBqi3A3DWS-ReX6mtVWHukbxlaQojayU_V66f5davYiM9U_nUJA_CT5K1JyD8_tzmSTuo3-gfj9yahOKS5fMZRj2H1xvbnD_eB8B1GtjuccUMIRVqRR4OHlgSwm8N/s1600/Capturing+Maternity+Photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Capturing Maternity Photo" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6TGLYc916iyg_AWCNBqi3A3DWS-ReX6mtVWHukbxlaQojayU_V66f5davYiM9U_nUJA_CT5K1JyD8_tzmSTuo3-gfj9yahOKS5fMZRj2H1xvbnD_eB8B1GtjuccUMIRVqRR4OHlgSwm8N/s1600/Capturing+Maternity+Photo.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 19px; font-weight: bold;">The place to capture maternity photo</span><br />
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Choose an outside location depend on how willing your expectant mum is on venturing out. Hiking out to a distant waterfall in the jungle could be out of the question! do you have a beach nearby? Or a pleasant neighborhood park? Even somewhere as easy because the brick wall of a house will create for an amazing outdoor venue with lots of texture and contrast. <b>(read <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/02/10-parks-photography-tips-from-ralph.html" target="_blank">10 Parks Photography tips from Ralph Lee Hopkins</a>)</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNcf33KCmFEAHQVBckq90G_XL6IGI_Xi1MaGmsvcJBIZV3tNUV0K2znOoWFPl5Ub7KeBGnEA9D-nrZdtiQZ-wCaHWJ9f6DHZGji7hhNORp68Vi2bkHINDig6yWiZTV4ohBUNeUnL2YzY7e/s1600/Capturing+Maternity+Photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Capturing Maternity Photo" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNcf33KCmFEAHQVBckq90G_XL6IGI_Xi1MaGmsvcJBIZV3tNUV0K2znOoWFPl5Ub7KeBGnEA9D-nrZdtiQZ-wCaHWJ9f6DHZGji7hhNORp68Vi2bkHINDig6yWiZTV4ohBUNeUnL2YzY7e/s1600/Capturing+Maternity+Photo.jpg" /></a></div>
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The client could be one who’s on doctor’s orders to remain in bed. Your location is currently chosen for you. you may feel ‘stuck’ creatively by being at someone’s home, however don’t let that get you down! There are several choices at hand.<br />
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Think about using the nursery or a pretty window on the landing. perhaps it’s their house that has the good brick wall! Or their garden, driveway, fountain, water feature, pond, library, kitchen.<br />
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<h3>
Equipment you might need</h3>
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Most of the time all a shoot like this involves is your camera and favorite portrait lens. If shooting inside, think about bringing your flash, atiny low spotlight (or use a lamp already at the house). If outside think about contemplate a reflector…and that’s about it really! clearly, don’t forget all of your back-up bits and bobs like a spare battery, next favorite lens, additional batteries for your flash, and all the rest.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5-1A3qGm71eZ3C7Rwe_l7QX09txbpnM9BqTmkWKT4wFhNnYj5CKMI18KNsrxH1oj9aOUyRNaFmkRhvi5oB7L7ADsk2QYpKWtyfp5pnTem4MepHJX7dGMhIKbsz_q9xra2y9OQkJVoDTft/s1600/Capturing+Maternity+Photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Capturing Maternity Photo" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5-1A3qGm71eZ3C7Rwe_l7QX09txbpnM9BqTmkWKT4wFhNnYj5CKMI18KNsrxH1oj9aOUyRNaFmkRhvi5oB7L7ADsk2QYpKWtyfp5pnTem4MepHJX7dGMhIKbsz_q9xra2y9OQkJVoDTft/s1600/Capturing+Maternity+Photo.jpg" /></a></div>
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<h3>
The Outfit</h3>
This will possibly depend on what the mother feels most comfy in. you'll be able to after all make some suggestions! Dresses would appear the foremost feminine and depending on the material used can provide off totally different sentiments like romance, love, beauty, nurturing, etc. The manner dresses fall over the body shows the expectant form wonderfully and will flatter any figure.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv_YQ0WU-P4wrFRWhmFqzpEntN9bNlkBT6pZ1mDUZ8pQT6DrKoel1JmGZDUnUp7amLVL4oQKwnf53_sNjUCxhDkfElhvU3bT-4oOxU5slBXTl8r4deaZ2PNNZ_BrTjqKHEB4mxbzGySP8A/s1600/Capturing+Maternity+Photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv_YQ0WU-P4wrFRWhmFqzpEntN9bNlkBT6pZ1mDUZ8pQT6DrKoel1JmGZDUnUp7amLVL4oQKwnf53_sNjUCxhDkfElhvU3bT-4oOxU5slBXTl8r4deaZ2PNNZ_BrTjqKHEB4mxbzGySP8A/s1600/Capturing+Maternity+Photo.jpg" /></a></div>
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The ther outfits would possibly a men’s outsized shirt with buttons undone halfway right down to show belly. Or for a more elegant look come with piece of long cloth to drape over female form in varied ways. For more casual look, go along with a tube top or bikini top with unbuttoned <b>pre-pregnancy </b>jeans to indicate off belly’s size & contrast. place confidence in jeans and an easy tank top, placing color mixtures, stripes/dots or lingerie.Sugeng Ariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04530677626306210126noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1452076430190225984.post-74972158905054306322012-05-16T05:17:00.004-07:002012-05-16T06:45:10.078-07:00Guide to Use LumiQuest’s Fold Flat Softbox<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX6Mr-TczvzXz7kKhpjMc9wv-KIJaNiK99AvQ-GMki3X68LJHAHFS5oZwp1orSvzfYvoMxwjfBLMVgX-TkdYENq3m-W9N8QWq-lTYrEVZA9NyZcXp5ybO50dIbw0F9DFTmSURJx27rV1A2/s1600/LumiQuest%E2%80%99s+Fold+Flat+Softbox.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="LumiQuest’s Fold Flat Softbox" border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX6Mr-TczvzXz7kKhpjMc9wv-KIJaNiK99AvQ-GMki3X68LJHAHFS5oZwp1orSvzfYvoMxwjfBLMVgX-TkdYENq3m-W9N8QWq-lTYrEVZA9NyZcXp5ybO50dIbw0F9DFTmSURJx27rV1A2/s200/LumiQuest%E2%80%99s+Fold+Flat+Softbox.jpg" width="166" /></a></div>
<b>LumiQuest Softbox III</b> - The power of little flash units is actually outstanding. From battery powered flash units, we are able to pull enough lightweight for <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/05/tips-for-wildlife-safari-photography.html" target="_blank">wildlife</a>, portraits, and lighting entire scenes.
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However, generally that light-weight are often harsh and unflattering to subjects. Modifiers are an amazing way to soften the sunshine and unfold it a lot of evenly, and these days we’ll be viewing one of the most effective ones out there, the <i>LumiQuest Softbox III</i>.<br />
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<h3>Why use Softbox?</h3>
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The form of a <b>softbox </b>is to melt the light from a flash supply. If you’ve visited or tried the setup of huge photo studios, you would possibly have noticed big flash units, usually known as monolights or strobes. You’ll nearly always see some variety of modifier connected to these unit, whether it’s a big umbrella, a softbox, or a more unique form of modifier like a beauty dish.<br />
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The truth is that for flattering photos of subjects, direct light from these units is almost always too harsh and throws unsightly shadows on the person being photographed.<br />
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When we think of light, we should always keep in mind the size of our source. An example that I frequently use is the sun and clouds. If you’ve ever been out and taken pictures on a bright and sunny day, you’ll notice the harsh shadows almost anywhere you look. Portraits in direct sunlight will feature big shadows under the chin or around the eyes, depending on the placement of the sun.<br />
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Now, consider the quality of light that you’ll observe on cloudy days. Even if you can’t see the sun directly, it passes through the clouds and is softened. Shadows on subjects are almost unobservable when there are clouds to diffuse the sun’s rays. In some ways, clouds are the world’s largest <i>softboxes</i>. They increase the size of the light source (in this case the sun) from a tiny dot in the sky to the size of the entire sky. The light is then described as soft.<br />
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The relationship in size with<b> flash units</b> is much the same. If we use a bare flash, the quality of our light is going to be harsh. We are pushing a lot of light out of a relatively small rectangle, so harsh light is the result. You’ll see photographers bounce flash to get around this, but another great way is to use a <u>softbox. </u><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZFBjg1xoc_ehoNv0kXOVzo6rA2qfbGRL6JQnErYO3W8aK2kySvetMHotM-RE5bMPmJNjol7-dwHBZYqL6UIC_zuKAzKeqAuYxnvsnRF5gNje9rl8ujWMuWP1E4abpdGWz8KzrQhwcfAJB/s1600/LumiQuest%E2%80%99s+Fold+Flat+Softbox.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="LumiQuest’s Fold Flat Softbox" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZFBjg1xoc_ehoNv0kXOVzo6rA2qfbGRL6JQnErYO3W8aK2kySvetMHotM-RE5bMPmJNjol7-dwHBZYqL6UIC_zuKAzKeqAuYxnvsnRF5gNje9rl8ujWMuWP1E4abpdGWz8KzrQhwcfAJB/s1600/LumiQuest%E2%80%99s+Fold+Flat+Softbox.jpg" /></a></div>
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The important part of my personal flash philosophy is mixing ambient
light with light from <i>flash units</i>. If you aren’t familiar with the term
“ambient”, it simply refers to the light that’s already in a scene. It
can be something like the sunlight coming through the windows, or the
lamp that lights up a living room. Sometimes, it’s not enough to light a
scene, so we mix in flash with the ambient light.<br />
However, flash can have a dominant effect. This is where a <b>softbox </b>
becomes invaluable: softening the light introduced by the flash to
appear more like ambient.<br />
<br />
As you may have already learned with photography, there are rarely
absolutes. Soft light isn’t what we are always looking for, but when we
do, we look to <i>softboxes</i> as the perfect way to lose the harsh shadows
and provide great light.<br />
<br />
<h2>
LumiQuest Softbox III</h2>
<br />
Awhile back, I began becoming interested in <u>using flash</u> in a less
obtrusive way. I loved that I could manufacture my own light on
location, but I wasn’t always pleased with the quality of light that my
flash units provided me. I once told a friend that my goal with flash
was always to make it seem as if I hadn’t used flash.<br />
<br />
When a fellow photographer offered up this <b>softbox</b> as a solution, I
took the plunge. It was inexpensively priced at under $40 and was
virtually a no brainer. Additionally, it didn’t require any type of
special connector or attachment to affix to my <b>flash unit</b> of choice, and
worked with all of my flash units.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNoQfuT2Ojz_vuk-9uul3eB4Dz6seKRKvde4sa_P0qO6xIDa6T8MwK2_ciCXSwh9Ti7vakBlZL8lJA_y6psRJDP2RdPshUkjTgrAVJUZ3SxNrAspK_RKyUjZrzcScIzuvGpqzjOFkepGhV/s1600/LumiQuest%E2%80%99s+Fold+Flat+Softbox.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="LumiQuest’s Fold Flat Softbox" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNoQfuT2Ojz_vuk-9uul3eB4Dz6seKRKvde4sa_P0qO6xIDa6T8MwK2_ciCXSwh9Ti7vakBlZL8lJA_y6psRJDP2RdPshUkjTgrAVJUZ3SxNrAspK_RKyUjZrzcScIzuvGpqzjOFkepGhV/s1600/LumiQuest%E2%80%99s+Fold+Flat+Softbox.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
Another one of the things that attracted me to this product was the
amazing form factor that it provides. It can fold down and fit flat in
my camera bag and can spring to life in a matter of seconds.<br />
The best modifiers are the ones that you will actually carry, so this
<i>softbox</i> scores big in this category. I’ve got enough big accessories
that stay at home because they’re inconvenient to carry. So when I add
something, size is always important.<br />
<br />
After receiving the<u> softbox</u>, I couldn’t wait to get started with
lighting scenes. Setup was nearly instantaneous. The flaps of the
softbox have the crinkly velcro that attached to the soft velcro on my
285HV. One thing that I might suggest is to pick up a Honl Speed Strap.
This wraps around the <b>flash and the softbox </b>and keeps the connection
tight. The softbox is pretty lightweight so it won’t fall off easily.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn-nHlq1ESZylIH_zClsHwgvWX36oS-eixMsttvTg_A9y6njAe48XTgmVDUzJsdFyU2A0t_rYVLp73MtuFPQaQ9cuX7UDKFVEL_Rv6FCq1xXD7znaUvoU7vbfjNHNSLPFtKnIPV0NK6h3N/s1600/LumiQuest%E2%80%99s+Fold+Flat+Softbox.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="LumiQuest’s Fold Flat Softbox" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn-nHlq1ESZylIH_zClsHwgvWX36oS-eixMsttvTg_A9y6njAe48XTgmVDUzJsdFyU2A0t_rYVLp73MtuFPQaQ9cuX7UDKFVEL_Rv6FCq1xXD7znaUvoU7vbfjNHNSLPFtKnIPV0NK6h3N/s1600/LumiQuest%E2%80%99s+Fold+Flat+Softbox.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUUrNXihe1Sa8QL8f0dz2KiSoig_7h7HNwSAAu0U83H0l3_0tGbhbYpvNcz8zaC8Ifu2g4b8D9dTKFpRTeCMIilzmW_XDRH-NXluL11ftmt0fGhjfgzrQK-zQc2qgpL-13crUA_RnAlYbC/s1600/LumiQuest%E2%80%99s+Fold+Flat+Softbox.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="LumiQuest’s Fold Flat Softbox" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUUrNXihe1Sa8QL8f0dz2KiSoig_7h7HNwSAAu0U83H0l3_0tGbhbYpvNcz8zaC8Ifu2g4b8D9dTKFpRTeCMIilzmW_XDRH-NXluL11ftmt0fGhjfgzrQK-zQc2qgpL-13crUA_RnAlYbC/s1600/LumiQuest%E2%80%99s+Fold+Flat+Softbox.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
I used some metallic, reflective blinds to give you a better idea of how
this <b>softbox modifies the light</b>. The top photo shows off the effect of
direct flash, while the bottom shows off the impact of the <u>LumiQuest
Softbox III</u>. As you can see, the light has a much greater spread and
throws off far less harsh reflection in the center. The reflection from
the blinds is different because the light is softer when you<i> use the
softbox</i>. Harsh light throws back harsh reflections, so imagine the ways
that a softbox will aid in providing high quality light in portraits.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaHjx6-eRC0pDKQANwjTyNAr-Z51oywZzPfmoR0iTkMYk9Jd-cU7dSeNw_0y9rH2612n0GzSUo0hyphenhyphenVhWzJPpfFZpj4BFc8roZ-wFLSYBtoIDTGTKSNRCF68haAQ6E_tX8WguIUjqD7OYPi/s1600/LumiQuest%E2%80%99s+Fold+Flat+Softbox.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="LumiQuest’s Fold Flat Softbox" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaHjx6-eRC0pDKQANwjTyNAr-Z51oywZzPfmoR0iTkMYk9Jd-cU7dSeNw_0y9rH2612n0GzSUo0hyphenhyphenVhWzJPpfFZpj4BFc8roZ-wFLSYBtoIDTGTKSNRCF68haAQ6E_tX8WguIUjqD7OYPi/s1600/LumiQuest%E2%80%99s+Fold+Flat+Softbox.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In this photo using bare flash, some reflective glare appeared in the center of the image.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-_ikNjVCfEsa_je8YBCZo0KG0CCnUXHGQCXeh9zBeJV7Rip3y-vBjXRGvJFOvRFzpDL1DXrZ-inBxLeMq3pUklmuSDMDp4QcWO6IH51MBUKLTsRoClyD9z37BypcipC8MEDeuZOFhHfFE/s1600/LumiQuest%E2%80%99s+Fold+Flat+Softbox.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="LumiQuest’s Fold Flat Softbox" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-_ikNjVCfEsa_je8YBCZo0KG0CCnUXHGQCXeh9zBeJV7Rip3y-vBjXRGvJFOvRFzpDL1DXrZ-inBxLeMq3pUklmuSDMDp4QcWO6IH51MBUKLTsRoClyD9z37BypcipC8MEDeuZOFhHfFE/s1600/LumiQuest%E2%80%99s+Fold+Flat+Softbox.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This photo used the softbox and the result is a much greater, even
spread of light. (The vignetting was an effect of the lens and aperture
being used)</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The cool thing about softboxes is the fact that they can be used for so
many different things and in so many different ways. I spent the
afternoon making some shots with this softbox to show off the variety of
things that can be accomplished with it and a <b>small flash unit</b>.<br />
<br />
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<h2>
LumiQuest’s for Studio Portraits</h2>
It doesn’t take renting space and furnishing a studio to get those great
studio quality photos. With this softbox, all it takes is a <i>flash unit </i>
and a large enough space to manufacture studio style portraits from
anywhere in the world.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-3IovSox7YE7N-f0h1lZSPEteTKT2M5Kk97e2Tv_jHvMYEHFgiL1OdQdwk4XvMnxnyJVcCPRzpmaZuZKNnNslo90ZrbwtVJ6XvCmkLaFte_-pXYnBSPHWkXzSaOSeq92sNGrfdJe_Qj_o/s1600/Studio+Portraits.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="LumiQuest’s Fold Flat Softbox" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-3IovSox7YE7N-f0h1lZSPEteTKT2M5Kk97e2Tv_jHvMYEHFgiL1OdQdwk4XvMnxnyJVcCPRzpmaZuZKNnNslo90ZrbwtVJ6XvCmkLaFte_-pXYnBSPHWkXzSaOSeq92sNGrfdJe_Qj_o/s1600/Studio+Portraits.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<h2>
Lighting Environments in LumiQuest’s Fold Flat Softbox</h2>
One of my favorite tricks to light creatively is to apply gels. It can make a part of a photo really stand out. Gels are simply colored, semi transparent thin plastic that go over <u>flash units</u> to change the color of the light involved.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_BltATDnKRAO_RY9VWD7GoEh8gX-UOfDOWsHlS6aRFCoTJC_XENtb8wwGtRRw5C-lR7hMWR7yzG8xNntELsPXUy3MFzXdnX6r7FcANu5G_sVOngoiabRVPY4LE8XivXEXdN-Yvisucvhu/s1600/Studio+Portraits.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="LumiQuest’s Fold Flat Softbox" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_BltATDnKRAO_RY9VWD7GoEh8gX-UOfDOWsHlS6aRFCoTJC_XENtb8wwGtRRw5C-lR7hMWR7yzG8xNntELsPXUy3MFzXdnX6r7FcANu5G_sVOngoiabRVPY4LE8XivXEXdN-Yvisucvhu/s1600/Studio+Portraits.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
In this photo, I used the <b>flash with a softbox</b> and a yellow gel to light
the mailboxes outside my apartment. It makes them stand out and appear
unnatural in a good way, although the softbox makes it look perhaps as
if I didn’t use a harsh flash. The effect here is to provide a light
that appears from nowhere, yet doesn’t have the telltale look of bare
flash.<br />
<br />
<h2>
Environmental Portraits </h2>
One of the most ideal applications for a <i>softbox like the LumiQuest</i> is to utilize it on the go in environmental portraits. When I use the term “<a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/03/what-do-you-need-to-prepare-portrait.html" target="_blank">environmental portraits</a>”, this just refers to placing a subject somewhere outside a studio in the midst of any type of environment.
The truth of the matter is that you will rarely have ideal lighting for photographing a person. Although natural light works quite frequently, the truth is that only flash can provide certain lighting looks. If that’s what you’re looking for, the need to introduce flash arises.<br />
<br />
However, with bare bulb flash (no modifier) we are somewhat tied to a look. Bare flash is harsh. Again, this isn’t always bad, but if we’re looking for <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/12/tips-for-food-photography-using-natural.html" target="_blank">natural yet unique lighting</a>, introducing flash with the <b>LumiQuest softbox III</b> attached is the perfect solution.
That’s exactly what I applied when I ventured out for the evening with a friend. We were testing it and fired a test shot in the nearby woods in front of some train tracks. It was almost pitch black, but we used the <b>softbox with our flash</b> unit to provide simple yet effective lighting.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7QMhIegMJVTIAKwiW7pKzZhe7IJ0V67-o0CJN4HgEeluNIewP7OmyiSc70u-lJadbFqNuhegC8JeOMzd50cLhwKBa54qUEkxqCfxGxoSCMLdvo5sMp-mHrieNrFSYk7XedtG8yz41eL1A/s1600/LumiQuest%E2%80%99s+Fold+Flat+Softbox.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="LumiQuest’s Fold Flat Softbox" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7QMhIegMJVTIAKwiW7pKzZhe7IJ0V67-o0CJN4HgEeluNIewP7OmyiSc70u-lJadbFqNuhegC8JeOMzd50cLhwKBa54qUEkxqCfxGxoSCMLdvo5sMp-mHrieNrFSYk7XedtG8yz41eL1A/s1600/LumiQuest%E2%80%99s+Fold+Flat+Softbox.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<h2>
Conclution</h2>
In all, I can’t recommend a softbox such as this one enough. It may
sound cliche, but it’s truly a game changer when it comes to using small
flash units. I feel as if I can get the best of both worlds,
portability and quality, from the small flash units that have somewhat
limited my lighting style in the past. Inexpensively priced and
extremely portable, it’s not hard to justify a spot in your bag for it.<br />
<br />
Above just few examples of the use of applications with flash softbox. and only a small part that can be done by this great application. you'll be able to flip to a softbox any time that you simply wishto subtly add in your own soft light. bare bulb flash definitely has its place in my list of flash tricks, however I notice myself turning to applying natural flash techniques a lot of usually that mimic the design of ambient light.<br />
<br />
<br />Sugeng Ariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04530677626306210126noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1452076430190225984.post-61163266730902391782012-05-12T20:23:00.001-07:002012-05-12T20:59:53.333-07:00Best 5 iPhone Photo Editor Apps<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXCJejMTzV2atfyrWA-rl6Hz-t-VRaWpWo5Gjs2JmYOiO3CZ9mELJCTYCJ3Z1PIHkiZRbpxniKZx2zktxzHb8cZGJX_yD4Z47iI44ygbudPUA4quBxEGQrTH5RA8gZpajrMvTdHwy6sMZM/s1600/Best+5+iPhone+Photo+Editor+Apps.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Best 5 iPhone Photo Editor Apps" border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXCJejMTzV2atfyrWA-rl6Hz-t-VRaWpWo5Gjs2JmYOiO3CZ9mELJCTYCJ3Z1PIHkiZRbpxniKZx2zktxzHb8cZGJX_yD4Z47iI44ygbudPUA4quBxEGQrTH5RA8gZpajrMvTdHwy6sMZM/s200/Best+5+iPhone+Photo+Editor+Apps.png" width="166" /></a>There are many <i>applications for iphone </i>and one of is an <b>application for photo editing</b>.
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Take pictures, editing and share online are a favored <a href="https://www.apple.com/iphone/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">flexibility on iphone</a>. However too many option for photo editing for the features offered can be a problem. following are best <b>5 iPhone photo editor apps</b> you really need and can be your consideration
<br />
<h3>
PicYou iPhone Photo Editor </h3>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQGtq88x-ijS6UvMcrYjvGn1sHxByKd_N-YKkU7mf_PuGpjdaYOVeIfGhBxko3Zw1kkyrzxk53E9lWbhDKiCrhnGmKLWe-4cMVKtQeg_x6f_PkLEKXObl1gyjcrXmcrkKiUdMQ5d1vUYFX/s1600/PicYou.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Best 5 iPhone Photo Editor Apps" border="0" height="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQGtq88x-ijS6UvMcrYjvGn1sHxByKd_N-YKkU7mf_PuGpjdaYOVeIfGhBxko3Zw1kkyrzxk53E9lWbhDKiCrhnGmKLWe-4cMVKtQeg_x6f_PkLEKXObl1gyjcrXmcrkKiUdMQ5d1vUYFX/s200/PicYou.jpg" width="195" /></a>One distinct quality of <b>PicYou</b> is its eye-candy interface in each the web and the iPhone. Its full-screen high definition showmanship definitely offers out what one extremely desires out of <u>iphone a photo editor</u>. Its responsiveness is maybe the best out there. and more, you'll be able also share those photos with no problem. With these qualities in mind, I’m pleasantly surprised to know it’s free. however I doubt it will keep that manner due to its solidity.<br />
<br />
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<h3>
PowerCam iPhone Photo Editor</h3>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgpOckE_kNkz-h2UsTavmkKC73Y6NOIMHEb6rul6OaY11tBF-TunDwXUOhyphenhyphenxzo5IQrybVLI8wEn8wE8NWI9i6E6i6lo6wz3t6J8DbnzAYALOlHszDCzwiiye1q964PmyuLhDdF2K5J2a9M/s1600/PowerCam.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Best 5 iPhone Photo Editor Apps" border="0" height="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgpOckE_kNkz-h2UsTavmkKC73Y6NOIMHEb6rul6OaY11tBF-TunDwXUOhyphenhyphenxzo5IQrybVLI8wEn8wE8NWI9i6E6i6lo6wz3t6J8DbnzAYALOlHszDCzwiiye1q964PmyuLhDdF2K5J2a9M/s200/PowerCam.jpg" width="130" /></a></div>
If your creativity is quite more the average, then <b>PowerCam</b> should suit you. Tools like tilt-shift, sketching, color splash and more than 50 effects are out there for you to tinker on. Plus, if you're social website fan, you can share your photos on Flickr, Facebook, Tumblr, Twitter and others with a flick of a finger. therefore grab it now while it’s still free.<br />
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<br />
<h3>
Procamera iPhone Photo Editor</h3>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFVu8AIlrtOF0onlZFGHlw1al1vmuj4uaEeC9J2z0Ob0TPHRflXEfUOkKBWFEUzMwXcI2JzWuzLRGnsSjSq6AdmokjrsbbzjECFTEL2lCso-JU0fcsUzTsZVR8hoqwYzJVJLag9G-GzfDj/s1600/procamera-logo.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Best 5 iPhone Photo Editor Apps" border="0" height="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFVu8AIlrtOF0onlZFGHlw1al1vmuj4uaEeC9J2z0Ob0TPHRflXEfUOkKBWFEUzMwXcI2JzWuzLRGnsSjSq6AdmokjrsbbzjECFTEL2lCso-JU0fcsUzTsZVR8hoqwYzJVJLag9G-GzfDj/s200/procamera-logo.png" width="130" /></a></div>
Skilled photography is all regarding composition and <b>Procamera</b> simply offersyou that. you'll additionally tap anywhere on the viewfinder once you area ready to take the shot. The professional mode and anti shake options are simply bonuses for you to play with. It’s also stacked with different features for you to get a hand on for only $2.99, of course.<br />
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<br />
<h3>
Hipstamatic iPhone Photo Editor</h3>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDVRCYY_GUlHBVuHF4SHiSy9qQrnzHaxxDY_a4YyrPEqXpIe3VUheTIu9SD9Aqkei4TdFlHCcW0f-8WFdWKfBkhQ3zCJim6fHx6_X_HqdZRDVqXBXmx4eGNQb1lJcoAAGIFOnlsCcjOiEo/s1600/Hipstamatic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Best 5 iPhone Photo Editor Apps" border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDVRCYY_GUlHBVuHF4SHiSy9qQrnzHaxxDY_a4YyrPEqXpIe3VUheTIu9SD9Aqkei4TdFlHCcW0f-8WFdWKfBkhQ3zCJim6fHx6_X_HqdZRDVqXBXmx4eGNQb1lJcoAAGIFOnlsCcjOiEo/s200/Hipstamatic.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
This app allows you to bring out the old fashioned and creative side of you. It features an extended line of filter modes for you to decide on from. choose among weird lighted effects, blurry-laden objects, to awesomely faulty vignetting that offers out a special and odd look to your photos. Ever wonder about that sure something that is bizaarely different from the others? <b>Hipstamatic</b> is one that I can think about and it’s smart for $1.99.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>
Instagram iPhone Photo Editor</h3>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpSl1BFQXoldbSn9UP98obHAqQQL4qzx4NHnmbhVbVG469FzMFDn0efKsANmg63a30vklutGtJNVsdO6fQ67G9Nxfnxm9LgQmb942LcyUlWdDlEGsxsR0JBqBaNH1qDShkW0eRnV6tDhng/s1600/Instagram.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Best 5 iPhone Photo Editor Apps" border="0" height="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpSl1BFQXoldbSn9UP98obHAqQQL4qzx4NHnmbhVbVG469FzMFDn0efKsANmg63a30vklutGtJNVsdO6fQ67G9Nxfnxm9LgQmb942LcyUlWdDlEGsxsR0JBqBaNH1qDShkW0eRnV6tDhng/s200/Instagram.png" width="130" /></a></div>
Facebook, Tumblr, Twitter, Flickr and lots of common social sites all came from scratch. Instagram might be joining these social-themed websites soon due to its social capability. This app keeps simplicity in check by removing the sense of complicated editing and focuses on its strong quality; photo sharing. To use <b>Instagram</b>, you have got to create you own account and at that time, you can show your photos to people on-line all for free.<br />
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<br />
<br />
<b><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/05/best-5-iphone-photo-editor-apps.html">5 iPhone apps photo editior apps</a></b> above are most frequently used, it is very difficult to choose the best applications in the fifth, all up to you to choose the best iPhone Photo Editor apps in accordance with the features you like best.<br />
<br />
Related Article<br />
<a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/02/favorite-picture-editing-app-for-travel.html" target="_blank">Favorite Picture Editing App for Travel Photography</a>Sugeng Ariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04530677626306210126noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1452076430190225984.post-4548663135724165692012-05-12T19:13:00.001-07:002012-05-12T20:59:32.098-07:00Tips for Wildlife Safari Photography<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1ICbAG4kTFkGsFcR3MZOX0iwYDNMvARmv1KqP7drAQvBcRNsgXM07tkJ3qrAVaXmM-fab9p92_OAUa9LNtFHB6n3o2PbEAsi5RjO7ltJCgsjbRlYP35mVV3nQHCEO4UMj8ER7BmzUw8bI/s1600/Tips+for+Wildlife+Safari+Photography.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Wildlife Safari Photography" border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1ICbAG4kTFkGsFcR3MZOX0iwYDNMvARmv1KqP7drAQvBcRNsgXM07tkJ3qrAVaXmM-fab9p92_OAUa9LNtFHB6n3o2PbEAsi5RjO7ltJCgsjbRlYP35mVV3nQHCEO4UMj8ER7BmzUw8bI/s200/Tips+for+Wildlife+Safari+Photography.jpg" width="166" /></a></div>
Take pictures in a <b>safari trip</b> with often not as easy as you think. a <b>wildlife photo</b> safari is a perfect view and so we need the right information and techniques to produce the best images.
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The following are some tips which can help you to produce <b>stunning safari images</b>.<br />
<i>(read article <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/02/captures-animals-on-camera-experient.html">Captures Animals On Camera : Experient from National Geographic Photographer Joel Sartore</a> ) </i><br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilPW5Z0sMQ_ffDPwjlRqNx-v9RWBX6qwp5H0i-PwTQoEMXP88D0ePVSQBOldOooczMotJiML1u43zEUtPo9vEBH_w7H_Xr5-5RKp8LRlvAOwkdaPlGlJSG7g8c_pADkdbLqROKB8iajivb/s1600/Tips+for+Wildlife+Safari+Photography.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Wildlife Safari Photography" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilPW5Z0sMQ_ffDPwjlRqNx-v9RWBX6qwp5H0i-PwTQoEMXP88D0ePVSQBOldOooczMotJiML1u43zEUtPo9vEBH_w7H_Xr5-5RKp8LRlvAOwkdaPlGlJSG7g8c_pADkdbLqROKB8iajivb/s1600/Tips+for+Wildlife+Safari+Photography.jpg" /></a></div>
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<h3>
Plan your trip</h3>
<br />
When booking your safari personally or through a travel agent, it's necessary to combine your travels inside the safari. this can make sure that you're ready to read totally different <i><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/05/tips-for-wildlife-safari-photography.html">wildlife to photograph</a></i>, bird species and landscapes. after you arrange plan to travel around, remember of your <i>photographic equipment</i>. try and avoid bringing all of your lenses along, however rather pack in exactly the essentials. this may make it easier to travel and you'll avoid possible theft in the airports.<br />
<br />
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<h3>Gear recommendation for safari photography</h3>
<br />
An essential lens to bring along could be a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_EF_300mm_lens" rel="nofollow">300mm lense</a>; it's long enough for close up shots and not too heavy to carry during a moving vehicle. it's important to avoid changing lenses whereas in a safari vehicle, you do not need dust dirt in your sensor. To avoid this you can rather bring along another body with a regular lens. don't use a flash in the dark, it will scare the animals. Instead, use the lights of the car to target the wildlife. keep in mind to bring enough charged batteries or bring a car charger along. If you're attending to <u>equipment </u>specifically for your <u>safari trip</u>, then invest during a stabilizing lens that covers all focal lengths.<br />
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<h3>
Techniques to use in safari photography</h3>
<br />
If possible bring a tripod along; photos will always be plenty clearer and a lot of stabilised with a tripod. keep in mind that safaris are an uncontrolled environment, the background might not be what you expect; so, use a bigger aperture to blur the background. ask your tour operator what the times of the tours are, you wish to either go as early or late as possible. make sure to buy a screw on filter for your lens, this may block out UV light while not adjusting the color of your photos. something to also invest in is a polarizing filter that may make images look wonderful. It can darken a light blue sky perfectly, simply be careful to not overdo it. try to not use autofocus as this will focus on objects round the animal, you only have a few moments to get the shot you wish, therefore don't waste your time.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Patience is the key</h3>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzWq890pPJfJN_izSAcIGdDxJvgf5QbQid7QJrTsJTCaa-vQNyMFQ1sWKGpGoWZfb1M5569qcyvfmbWATGhGfkHwg2gwC72hNAmSRz3PoVm0bh_HnhmABnSPSDApuqbJZHfzVRkGbsFVZk/s1600/Tips+for+Wildlife+Safari+Photography.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Wildlife Safari Photography" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzWq890pPJfJN_izSAcIGdDxJvgf5QbQid7QJrTsJTCaa-vQNyMFQ1sWKGpGoWZfb1M5569qcyvfmbWATGhGfkHwg2gwC72hNAmSRz3PoVm0bh_HnhmABnSPSDApuqbJZHfzVRkGbsFVZk/s1600/Tips+for+Wildlife+Safari+Photography.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
to get a <b>unique picture in safari</b>, it takes patience to wait for the natural behavior of animals. this can be what's most fascinating and worth the wait. a particular amount of luck is also involved; you may be there at the correct time to capture something completely unique.<br />
<br />
Related Article :<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/07/how-to-photographing-wildlife-in-easliy.html">How to photographing Wildlife in Easliy Way</a> </li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/02/10-parks-photography-tips-from-ralph.html">10 Parks Photography tips from Ralph Lee Hopkins</a> </li>
</ul>Sugeng Ariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04530677626306210126noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1452076430190225984.post-64914199157749085472012-05-10T23:21:00.000-07:002012-05-10T23:36:14.201-07:00Best Way to Understand Exposure and Histogram<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNMrdpLHHlbVi47LydN3gIanHtcJVbkgrPOpqSZTEVgu8ixOImXix-AHXmkjJ_6-I932ig47yFbv1S_1rWNj1G_FSmKpSZbgl8ByNvzoLZVNvF_OT5EhsPKmKoXkHxdCd7k51k6fiSu1EU/s1600/Best+Way+to+Understand+Exposure+and+Histogram.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNMrdpLHHlbVi47LydN3gIanHtcJVbkgrPOpqSZTEVgu8ixOImXix-AHXmkjJ_6-I932ig47yFbv1S_1rWNj1G_FSmKpSZbgl8ByNvzoLZVNvF_OT5EhsPKmKoXkHxdCd7k51k6fiSu1EU/s320/Best+Way+to+Understand+Exposure+and+Histogram.jpg" width="177" /></a></div>
<br />
For some experienced photographer, <b>exsposure </b>still to be a problem. exposure shown in the LCD screen is not an accurate indicator.
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<b>Histogram</b> is the only way to ensure this, the following article will try to understand the importance of the histogram by starting with the basics of exposure<br />
<br />
<b>Brightness</b> can be adjusted on most cameras and its appear on LCD screen. when you adjusting the <i>brightness with manual settings</i>, this is because you can see firsthand the changes on the LCD screen, but this way is sometimes misleading when you think that your picture looks good, but the result is not.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicNBIbvHCvV67OCbMLkVLuAeFu56RWJVvF5XqbCFkkh7dba-mH8gS5mMmAX5O9I-pf6GbNUJmFcR1HcPCkb1kpd2WXz2l4OPVMuTAr9CV8vdoFMbDzPgAzzC0SwI8DVQSf3SWzl2Z5lMdG/s1600/long-exposure.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Understand Exposure and Histogram" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicNBIbvHCvV67OCbMLkVLuAeFu56RWJVvF5XqbCFkkh7dba-mH8gS5mMmAX5O9I-pf6GbNUJmFcR1HcPCkb1kpd2WXz2l4OPVMuTAr9CV8vdoFMbDzPgAzzC0SwI8DVQSf3SWzl2Z5lMdG/s1600/long-exposure.jpg" /></a></div>
The <b>brightness of the LCD screen</b> will more accurately reflect brightness of
the photo if you select Auto. However, you still need to <i>check the
histogram</i>.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijUE0TCOZrHs6sBvHOEbB7zSQJXmMZVG1klHA_iOWOLBMELfwE8QCEqzlDvw1pj1oNQukP3eODPND0qskROjbHtKKRGxcE7erTnNcVo__Bd_Qkb6RvdnHfcbgrqFPiowQ6D3YO6A2sQWnP/s1600/204485.image2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Understand Exposure and Histogram" border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijUE0TCOZrHs6sBvHOEbB7zSQJXmMZVG1klHA_iOWOLBMELfwE8QCEqzlDvw1pj1oNQukP3eODPND0qskROjbHtKKRGxcE7erTnNcVo__Bd_Qkb6RvdnHfcbgrqFPiowQ6D3YO6A2sQWnP/s320/204485.image2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<h2>
Your Camera’s Meter</h2>
The first step to understanding exposure,
and why your camera can get it wrong, is to learn how your <b>camera’s
exposure</b> meter works. Once you understand the following three points,
you will know why your camera’s meter can easily give the wrong reading:<br />
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<ol>
<li>No matter which camera you have, or which metering mode you use it in,
the <i>exposure sensor</i> inside your camera is measuring light reflected from
the subject.</li>
<li>Your camera expects the light reflected from the subject to average out to a mid-grey tone (also known as 18% grey).</li>
<li>If the light reflected from the subject doesn’t average out to
mid-grey, your camera will get the exposure wrong. At this point you
need to step in and override the camera’s settings.</li>
</ol>
What sort of
subject matter will give a wrong exposure reading? Your camera
essentially expects to see a mid-grey subject (once all the tones are
averaged out), so anything that is predominantly light or dark in tone
will make the camera give an incorrect reading.<br />
<br />
Any subject that
is white or black will give an incorrect <u>exposure reading</u>. But so will
anything that is predominantly light or dark. Flowers are a common
subject that cause difficulty, and so are portraits if your model is
light skinned.<br />
<br />
White, or light colored, subjects will make the
camera underexpose. This is because the camera is returning a reading
that makes the tones in the image average out to mid-grey.<br />
Dark,
or dark toned, subjects will make the camera overexpose. Again, the
camera is returning a reading that makes the tones in the image average
out to mid-grey.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIUUjmzf_ZROo5e-M-0r2C5fItdGMoLmfzOktZSShms4MYXHCWUgEHWuiHGH08vfVJFxS68Q94JWDHWmBP2FsP4ap8oeWqGYKgdGvE2WfiZMkz443ZOukHr9LMnHwe-5_6lB771JFaXBQQ/s1600/04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Understand Exposure and Histogram" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIUUjmzf_ZROo5e-M-0r2C5fItdGMoLmfzOktZSShms4MYXHCWUgEHWuiHGH08vfVJFxS68Q94JWDHWmBP2FsP4ap8oeWqGYKgdGvE2WfiZMkz443ZOukHr9LMnHwe-5_6lB771JFaXBQQ/s1600/04.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
Based on what you’ve just read, can you tell which of these two images of a white flower was taken with the camera’s <i>suggested exposure settings</i>? If you said the left hand photo, you were right.<br />
Even
with the camera set to evaluative metering (it’s most advanced metering
mode) it still got it wrong.<br />
<br />
That’s because the flower is white, but
the camera is programmed to believe that everything it sees is mid-grey.
It gives a reading that makes the flower grey, not white.<br />
<br />
The right hand photo is correctly exposed. I had to override the camera’s settings to take this image.<br />
<br />
<h2>
Using the Histogram</h2>
One of the biggest benefits of digital cameras is that they give you instant feedback.When
I was learning photography with a film camera, the best way to learn
about exposure was with slide film. Exposure has to be very precise with
slide film – just 1/3 stop more or less exposure can make a dramatic
difference to the image.<br />
<br />
With slide film, I had the choice between
using Kodachrome, which took over a week to come back after being sent
off to be processed, or E6 film, which took three or four days. Either
way, it was a long wait to see if I had got the<b> exposure correct</b>.<br />
Now, with digital cameras, all you need to do is look at the histogram. It’s quick, easy and makes learning much faster.<br />
<br />
Check
your camera’s instruction manual to see how to <u>display the histogram</u>
when you playback your images. If your camera has the choice between a
luminance <b>histogram and color histograms</b>, then the luminance histogram
is the one you need. <br />
The luminance histogram tells you two important things:<br />
<ol>
<li>Whether the photo is <a href="http://www.tested.com/news/how-to/558-underexposed-vs-overexposed-photos-which-is-worse/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">underexposed or overexposed</a>.</li>
<li>How many light, dark and mid-tones the photo has.</li>
</ol>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioAKGAcQN2T5FtEEUcML0CMVobvahQnm97MRl4kH368oxNvnuK89gQ0GywRYINkIe2erow9If-GJwjE7ryblS7U4Ee2WU86-yeQ0rpcSL1zmrdQY8pn9nJ4_V9hIM5Lrqy3vlRVk_BmeBv/s1600/Best+Way+to+Understand+Exposure+and+Histogram.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Understand Exposure and Histogram" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioAKGAcQN2T5FtEEUcML0CMVobvahQnm97MRl4kH368oxNvnuK89gQ0GywRYINkIe2erow9If-GJwjE7ryblS7U4Ee2WU86-yeQ0rpcSL1zmrdQY8pn9nJ4_V9hIM5Lrqy3vlRVk_BmeBv/s1600/Best+Way+to+Understand+Exposure+and+Histogram.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
The<b> luminance histogram</b> is a bar graph with up to 256 bars pressed
tightly together so that there are no gaps between. The bottom axis
shows a range of 256 tones from pure black (on the far left) to pure
white (on the far right). The left axis shows the number of pixels in
the image that correspond to those tones. The higher the spikes, the
more tones there are.<br />
<br />
The image above shows how different parts of
the histogram relate to the image. I’ve shown the image in black and
white as that’s how the camera sees it when it generates the luminance
histogram. It takes into account brightness values only and ignores the
color.<br />
<br />
Every photo has a histogram. Ideally, the histogram should
fit within the span of the graph. It should slope down to meet the
bottom axis and not be cut off on the right hand or left hand side.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNkIf2S-cP0iOFczYpzD9Z9Ep8cfIRMhR7b-kQlVCIPN8KsbbuIPP-KrZDKRkLMwwp9vqm6kKf0AVpDmGE8zwkEhcZszspuKpPqSlt-0qT0tp3fXMVL-zCxhyphenhyphensDzH9X3Chs4etRpslGkBE/s1600/Best+Way+to+Understand+Exposure+and+Histogram.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Understand Exposure and Histogram" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNkIf2S-cP0iOFczYpzD9Z9Ep8cfIRMhR7b-kQlVCIPN8KsbbuIPP-KrZDKRkLMwwp9vqm6kKf0AVpDmGE8zwkEhcZszspuKpPqSlt-0qT0tp3fXMVL-zCxhyphenhyphensDzH9X3Chs4etRpslGkBE/s1600/Best+Way+to+Understand+Exposure+and+Histogram.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
I deliberately overexposed this photo to show you what happens. <i>The
histogram</i> is cut off on the right hand side, indicating that the image
is overexposed. Exposure needs to be reduced.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA00ntPPL07N94Bywj6lfSU9grnZJmQSLt1yLezQW-QvsbYY18dFfWEdBcFgdhZNFUataARQtNB0rNbRDdnEtxgr3QF3KDTVq-3Yuhvqx6UTiVOnY13_VJ7GFgIFSrQJTrjwN6eXSfQ9pE/s1600/Best+Way+to+Understand+Exposure+and+Histogram.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Understand Exposure and Histogram" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA00ntPPL07N94Bywj6lfSU9grnZJmQSLt1yLezQW-QvsbYY18dFfWEdBcFgdhZNFUataARQtNB0rNbRDdnEtxgr3QF3KDTVq-3Yuhvqx6UTiVOnY13_VJ7GFgIFSrQJTrjwN6eXSfQ9pE/s1600/Best+Way+to+Understand+Exposure+and+Histogram.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
Here, my camera’s highlight alert shows the area that is overexposed.
There is no detail here, these highlights are ‘clipped’. I <i>might</i>
be able to pull some of that detail back in post-processing if I’m
shooting Raw, but it’s better to get the <i>exposure correct</i> in the first
place.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxseJE98Iu_qw83mrP3lnVqB0m096INMZbH_oybfXcE39oRPt4iDpjvIJmYltkY6iuOVOfewdTFGLUmFgFrvTfWGdEUNUlmLtPwMZy0b3NIVZlR8ncq0IlYV-34QfhDB-y2geGPTjo2Dv_/s1600/Best+Way+to+Understand+Exposure+and+Histogram.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Understand Exposure and Histogram" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxseJE98Iu_qw83mrP3lnVqB0m096INMZbH_oybfXcE39oRPt4iDpjvIJmYltkY6iuOVOfewdTFGLUmFgFrvTfWGdEUNUlmLtPwMZy0b3NIVZlR8ncq0IlYV-34QfhDB-y2geGPTjo2Dv_/s1600/Best+Way+to+Understand+Exposure+and+Histogram.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
This screen grab shows an underexposed image. The histogram is cut
off on the left-hand side, indicating that the photo is underexposed and
that exposure needs to be increased. There will be no detail in the
shadow areas. <br />
Let’s take a look at the <u>histograms for the photos</u> of the white flower I showed you earlier:<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw_fsUZxLhb7DeGhcYTosHIPrZ5t2QjC-sfmM-0fF3HOI05p9ojCSlCZjwwx2grqaAKdIBDjgz9Slba7Ic0Fb7YAnOMp7SWXN896JQyeFTMkoPO0l2VUKu13lIwd2y3-27NjIrZag0z9tF/s1600/Best+Way+to+Understand+Exposure+and+Histogram.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Understand Exposure and Histogram" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw_fsUZxLhb7DeGhcYTosHIPrZ5t2QjC-sfmM-0fF3HOI05p9ojCSlCZjwwx2grqaAKdIBDjgz9Slba7Ic0Fb7YAnOMp7SWXN896JQyeFTMkoPO0l2VUKu13lIwd2y3-27NjIrZag0z9tF/s1600/Best+Way+to+Understand+Exposure+and+Histogram.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
I set my camera to evaluative metering, its most advanced metering mode,
to take this photo. Even so, it still underexposed the white flower.
The big gap on the right hand side of the histogram confirms this.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbAjnXcwzXzo3Ah4rKe6KPjCpsUmzZcuEY8Fm5A_urq1IUprQSV-jI4t-GEBWxjIRtA4sh1MUXk13MJglysc8KFs_3LEjE3hO2hNyNiEKWhVZiBpALvLiLtjYAb_uV3RiK61DQWnJzH4yG/s1600/Best+Way+to+Understand+Exposure+and+Histogram.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Understand Exposure and Histogram" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbAjnXcwzXzo3Ah4rKe6KPjCpsUmzZcuEY8Fm5A_urq1IUprQSV-jI4t-GEBWxjIRtA4sh1MUXk13MJglysc8KFs_3LEjE3hO2hNyNiEKWhVZiBpALvLiLtjYAb_uV3RiK61DQWnJzH4yG/s1600/Best+Way+to+Understand+Exposure+and+Histogram.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
Here I used exposure compensation to override the camera’s meter and
increase the exposure by two stops. <b>The histogram</b> has moved over to the
right, and is nearly touching the right hand side, indicating that the
exposure is correct.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXuEyCLYbbtS_T-CVFyAqTaWitVnlepWMGBmL1m-BCXEvsFXvhxGFjSOvHAjhRb7BDWB4v_smD6_EO5U9IIeM7T05koQ2Do_cMzf1arlh66GWAM4rsmruhpwZc59Vv-xZfFAeQZlLfTkAs/s1600/Best+Way+to+Understand+Exposure+and+Histogram.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Understand Exposure and Histogram" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXuEyCLYbbtS_T-CVFyAqTaWitVnlepWMGBmL1m-BCXEvsFXvhxGFjSOvHAjhRb7BDWB4v_smD6_EO5U9IIeM7T05koQ2Do_cMzf1arlh66GWAM4rsmruhpwZc59Vv-xZfFAeQZlLfTkAs/s1600/Best+Way+to+Understand+Exposure+and+Histogram.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
What does the histogram for the above image tell us? You may think that
the spike on the left shows the image is underexposed. But in reality
the exposure is correct. A glance at the image itself tells us that
there are lots of dark tones in the sky and the mountains. The spike in
the histogram merely confirms that.<br />
<br />
<h2>
Exposure Compensation</h2>
Now that you can use <b>the histogram</b> to see if a photo is correctly exposed, you need to know what to do when it isn’t.<br />
<br />
If you are using an automatic<b> exposure mode</b>, the easiest way is to use your camera’s exposure compensation function.<br />
<br />
If
you’re photographing a light subject and the photo is underexposed,
increase exposure by a stop or two, then take another photo and check
the histogram again to see if it’s correct.<br />
The same applies, but
in reverse, for dark subjects. The camera will tend to overexpose – use
exposure compensation to underexpose by one or two stops to compensate.<br />
Don’t
forget to set the exposure compensation back to zero when you’re
finished – otherwise your next set of photos may come out over or
underexposed.<br />
<br />
<h2>
Creative Exercises</h2>
These exercises will help you put the lessons learnt today into practice:<br />
<h3>
Creative Exercise One:</h3>
Go back through the images saved on your
camera’s memory card/s and look at the <b>luminance histogram </b>for each
image. How do the tones in the image correspond to the spikes in the
histogram? Do the histograms indicate <b>underexposure</b> or <b>overexposure</b> on
any of the images? <br />
<h3>
Creative Exercise Two:</h3>
You can try this out for yourself. Take a
photo of any white colored object. It could be a sheet of paper, a white
wall, a white cup, or someone dressed in white. It doesn’t matter which
<i>exposure mode</i> you use.<br />
<br />
Look at the photo on your camera’s LCD
screen. Are the white tones in the image white or grey? Look at the
histogram. Is there a gap on the right hand side? Change the metering
mode. Does this make a difference to the exposure reading your camera
gives? Now use exposure compensation to increase the exposure. How many
stops do you need to increase it by to get the correct exposure?<br />
<br />
Now
repeat the exercise with a black subject. Look for a black wall, a
black car, a black cat – anything that’s black and repeat the
experiment. What color is your subject when you playback the image –
black or grey? Is there a gap on the left hand side of the histogram?
How many stops of minus exposure compensation are required to obtain the
correct exposure?<br />
Try these tests in both direct sunlight and shade. The difference in results may surprise you.<br />
<h2>
Conclusion</h2>
By the time you’ve finished these two exercises you
should have a good idea of the relationship between <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/05/best-way-to-understand-exposure-and.html"><b>exposure and the histogram</b></a>. You should also be able tell, if the exposure is incorrect,
how much exposure compensation is required to rectify it.<br />
<br />
Related Articles :<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/06/perfect-exposure-using-histogram.html">Perfect Exposure using Histogram</a>
</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/06/long-exposure-quick-reference.html">Long Exposure Quick Reference</a>
</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2010/11/photographing-black-and-white_5338.html">Exposure and Composition in BW</a></li>
</ul>Sugeng Ariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04530677626306210126noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1452076430190225984.post-28183239439347697502012-04-24T06:46:00.000-07:002012-04-24T07:06:54.530-07:00Tone Curve Tool in Lightroom<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4JojCx-4gvVNjqyCFkqKfwDqiQXmFhHhjnsfmDCRgPS6NK0aZ0LoKcqj0aQ3s1D2qDJoE32l4cu8XnEQrzWok8YPVpsHDsyLH0fIHKhuF_Pid4I4ZPLrhcAleWxqWGCgRNRUHDj638dWk/s1600/xed_20100526_01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Tone Curve in Tool Lightroom" border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4JojCx-4gvVNjqyCFkqKfwDqiQXmFhHhjnsfmDCRgPS6NK0aZ0LoKcqj0aQ3s1D2qDJoE32l4cu8XnEQrzWok8YPVpsHDsyLH0fIHKhuF_Pid4I4ZPLrhcAleWxqWGCgRNRUHDj638dWk/s320/xed_20100526_01.jpg" width="166" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>Tone curve in Lightroom</b> is one of powerful tools and easy to use, like HSL Panel’s Luminance tool to control the luminance level of light and dark on any given detail image, tone curve tool control the color of certain range actual tone in the picture.
<br /><!-- adsense -->
<h3>
What is Tone curve ?</h3>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimplyjA0X2FHpNQ17MbhA4Vj8CtLLbTWbCereerfFcv2gvK7EkuyEF5sJZTsYKNsn8kv2AEXgCYXv0UoVIskiMv1_i-uAvtqfwCVbduvZBb-vZt1JFbdFC_5Pkxkt7ck4BsbeWhgMJHqVL/s1600/Tone-Curve-Explained.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimplyjA0X2FHpNQ17MbhA4Vj8CtLLbTWbCereerfFcv2gvK7EkuyEF5sJZTsYKNsn8kv2AEXgCYXv0UoVIskiMv1_i-uAvtqfwCVbduvZBb-vZt1JFbdFC_5Pkxkt7ck4BsbeWhgMJHqVL/s320/Tone-Curve-Explained.jpg" width="211" /></a></div>
The<i> Tone Curve r</i>epresents all the tones of your image. the bottom axis of the Tone Curve is that the Tone axis: the line starts with Shadows at the left-most finish and ends with Highlights within the right-most end. in the middle you've got Midtones, which are then further split into darker Midtones, known as Darks in <i>Lightroom</i>, and brighter Midtones, known as Lights. In different words, going left to right, the curve starts with Shadows, Darks, Lights and ends with Highlights. you can also see the corresponding vary shown to you by Lightroom once you hover over a particular slider under the Tone Curve, in the Region section of the Panel. The Y axis represents lightness of a given tones. The tones get darker as you move lower and brighter as you move up the axis.<br />
<br />
While all of this may sound very technical, it's in fact quite easy to adjust. All you would like to decide on is which range of tones you wish to change, for example: if you wish to create the Midtones of the image darker, simply click on the center portion of the Tone Curve and gently drag it downwards – you'll notice your image getting darker as you drag it, equally because it would if you were to decrease Exposure within the Basic Panel. If, on the other hand, you wished to make your Shadows a part of the image brighter, you must click on the left-most third of the Tone Curve which represents the Shadows and gently drag it upwards to see them brighten up. Simple, isn’t it?<br />
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<h3>
Region Curve and Point Curve</h3>
<a href="http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshop-lightroom.html" rel="nofollow">Adobe Lightroom</a> has two different Curves you can work with. The one that I’ve been showing you so far (the enlarged screenshot at the top) is the easiest to operate, especially for beginners – lets call it the Region Curve for simplicity sake. When you’re using this Curve,<u> Lightroom </u>basically helps you keep it as smooth in transition as possible, so that you don’t ruin your image by accidentally distorting the Curve too much. You can either adjust it by dragging the Curve itself or using the sliders bellow it, which will give you exactly the same flexibility. You can also adjust it using an automated Lighroom tool, which appears as a dot at the top left of the <u>Tone Curve </u>Panel, right next to the Tone Curve. All you have to do is click on it to turn the tool on and then click-and-drag on the particular tone range or area of the image to adjust it. Even if you tried hard, however, you could not make a, say, “N” shaped Curve using Region Curve simply because Lightroom is aiding you by keeping a smooth tonal transition – a very useful feature, really, it saves you from ending up with something like this:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeqHwUNp6yyQWcfrBYc1NVnlu8EKh8tldD4xI_kugy9TpTgRBTZNk5VLHnJpaUaEm6jSTRTXqRCgy1r7vBOmVziaMBjnWI6hEgj6DjHDE9euJfQ-Skz5_ydYBd80E1SYT52y9m5GelhbJG/s1600/N-Shaped-Tone-Curve-650x365.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeqHwUNp6yyQWcfrBYc1NVnlu8EKh8tldD4xI_kugy9TpTgRBTZNk5VLHnJpaUaEm6jSTRTXqRCgy1r7vBOmVziaMBjnWI6hEgj6DjHDE9euJfQ-Skz5_ydYBd80E1SYT52y9m5GelhbJG/s400/N-Shaped-Tone-Curve-650x365.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
But then there is another Curve you can use if you do need to make adjustments not possible with the Region Curve, and it is called Point Curve. You can activate it by clicking a small square button at the bottom right of the Tone Curve Panel. Once you do that, you will instantly notice sliders disappear only to be replaced with one control – Channel. This setting allows you to choose which color – Red, Green or Blue – you want to alter (the default is set to RGB, which includes all colors). Changing individual colors opens up a whole new range of editing possibilities, like simulation of film cross-processing (deliberately using wrong chemicals to develop film and get crazy cool colors), but we won’t be getting into that this time – that’s a whole new article. Lets leave the Channel setting at its default RGB mode.<br />
<br />
The idea of <b>Point Curve</b> is that you can alter it whichever way you like and make a complete mess out of your image – Lightroom will not get in your way. It’s a great tool for some advanced B&W and color work, but is also very useful when used as a starting point to work with Region Curve afterwards, much like the tone curve your camera uses when you take photographs. Lightroom actually allows you to choose one of the default settings of the Point Curve to use as a starting point – you can choose it by clicking on the drop-down list at the bottom left of the Tone Curve panel in either Region Curve or Point Curve mode.
I plan to discuss the use of the Point Curve in greater detail in future tutorials as it offers a complete new range of creative editing. For now, lets focus on the simpler and more popular Range Curve (and simply call it Tone Curve further on before it gets too confusing).
<br />
<h3>
The Easy Part Tone Curve </h3>
As I have already mentioned, working with the <u>Tone Curve</u> is actually very easy. Depending on what you want to achieve, there are basically only four things you need to remember.<br />
<h4>
1) How To Make Your Image Pop</h4>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Gth99QRojq3HormvlrB3mv1iWoaePp3n-nDePDsb83Tangp4oipuHDltuiZ0QL3YBVMpB-4m1-Wko4pOH1fdNGQlPdcTwEzqloi1FsQKxxWUXuVC-Ehfnzl-3fWXS7Mt4UvcjfzNnRt4/s1600/Tone-Curve-Pop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Tone Curve in Tool Lightroom" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Gth99QRojq3HormvlrB3mv1iWoaePp3n-nDePDsb83Tangp4oipuHDltuiZ0QL3YBVMpB-4m1-Wko4pOH1fdNGQlPdcTwEzqloi1FsQKxxWUXuVC-Ehfnzl-3fWXS7Mt4UvcjfzNnRt4/s320/Tone-Curve-Pop.jpg" width="209" /></a></div>
Most of the time, this is the primary intention when using <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/04/tone-curve-in-tool-lightroom.html" target="_blank">Tone Curve</a>. Sometimes you may find that, after you’re done with the Basic Panel adjustments, while everything may technically be correct, there is still something missing, something to make that photograph look worlds better than it does. And you can see it in your head – it should look better, but why doesn’t it?<br />
<br />
There are a few ways you can adjust the Tone Curve to give your picture that bit of magic it seems to lack initially, but by messing with it too much, you might as well end up with a horrible, unrecognizable image. The most dependable technique is adding a slight “S” curve by dragging the lower third of the curve down slightly, and the upper third of the curve slightly upwards. What this does is darken the shadows, which is the lower third of the Curve, and lightens the bright portions of the image, which are represented by the upper third of the Curve. You may just as well use the sliders under the Tone Curve to specifically change exactly what you want.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQTQqWp0a16kJWFxAwX0KOoXqJahcG1AHdMSxJPKqGLPMlTpvucEbiA3d1mTu8tzPcjPEuXoyUd-MrZprqMkFTfKq06MM_wTegEIZpqAOCYYlFs8J-jOIRasDvpCR0CAWv-tKacHtIgfUT/s1600/Tone-Curve-Tool_Before-650x36522.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Tone Curve in Tool Lightroom" border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQTQqWp0a16kJWFxAwX0KOoXqJahcG1AHdMSxJPKqGLPMlTpvucEbiA3d1mTu8tzPcjPEuXoyUd-MrZprqMkFTfKq06MM_wTegEIZpqAOCYYlFs8J-jOIRasDvpCR0CAWv-tKacHtIgfUT/s400/Tone-Curve-Tool_Before-650x36522.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">click to enlarge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Lets take the above picture and try to add a little more contrast to it
by playing with the Tone Curve. By setting the Lights slider to +29, I
boosted the brighter portions of the image while still retaining enough
tones to keep them from blowing out. By moving the Darks slider to -39,
I’ve darkened the shadowy parts of the image, yet not enough to make
them completely black. This is what I got (enlarge and use arrow keys to
compare; note changes in the Panel):<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwqt0oDyyvtc8oQXXcu81WLWhi7dkCs3aMFcX8ai0HFWGiNZaaz51LJpmmjjqUpe5ovsNEijsRcni6pVoqcwfOTraGMg8uXLj-HV88X3pBZocO3UfhsqPcuSWs2bAsjuteqsJOR8r-ikxL/s1600/Tone-Curve-Tool_After-650x365333.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Tone Curve in Tool Lightroom" border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwqt0oDyyvtc8oQXXcu81WLWhi7dkCs3aMFcX8ai0HFWGiNZaaz51LJpmmjjqUpe5ovsNEijsRcni6pVoqcwfOTraGMg8uXLj-HV88X3pBZocO3UfhsqPcuSWs2bAsjuteqsJOR8r-ikxL/s400/Tone-Curve-Tool_After-650x365333.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">click to enlarge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Looks much better, doesn’t it? And with such a modest adjustment, too.
You may notice color has changed somewhat as well – it’s a bit more
saturated now, deeper, especially the cherries. While in this case I
don’t mind extra punch in colors, it would be nice if I could set the
effect to Luminance only – too bad Lightroom didn’t add such feature
with the new version, Photoshop allows one to do that. Still, I can
always bring those colors down by adjusting the Vibrance slider in the
Basic Panel if needed.<br />
<h4>
2) And If You Want Less…</h4>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdTOkHvYKWvO7-emF_hZStUz4aJ1qWFAT9rP73uOI-WAabmNQDIprsznLVMY60U66mTSAw7fITwLScjg3QYhVGnnXvHXXJVHUbJELxQGytFcGPJ2CiSPEE59MBYlIfn4rv87A9IC1wwa_x/s1600/Tone-Curve-Flat11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Tone Curve in Tool Lightroom" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdTOkHvYKWvO7-emF_hZStUz4aJ1qWFAT9rP73uOI-WAabmNQDIprsznLVMY60U66mTSAw7fITwLScjg3QYhVGnnXvHXXJVHUbJELxQGytFcGPJ2CiSPEE59MBYlIfn4rv87A9IC1wwa_x/s320/Tone-Curve-Flat11.jpg" width="210" /></a></div>
…all you need to do is set the curve to reverse “S” by bringing the
Lights down and upping the Darks a little. You may want to do that when
you find the image to be too contrasty as it is, or if you want to
achieve a certain low contrast look. Setting the Tone Curve into reverse
“S” will flatten the image, bring Lights and Highlights closer to Darks
and Shadows in their tonality. This also helps if you have blown-out
portions of image that you want to fix specifically with this tool,
although you should always remember the Tone Curve works best in
conjunction with the rest of the tools you can find in Lightroom.<br />
<br />
Lets see what happens if you push the upper half of the Tone Curve
slightly down (Lights at -50) and the lower half of it upwards (Darks at
+50):<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj75GXFykoDV3uUXdyAvxUNSSSDwX1fCIzEdlnHArRyPsOjo7P4acp7H7tkyG3eR-r-DUPJUlhzMqHQFPn1yk7lAs9jOPh7A7GBRFNBd6uVMFyVW9t5BosP_1OAlSKww-9qxZm5abdvxHZr/s1600/Tone-Curve-Tool_Flat-650x365444.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Tone Curve in Tool Lightroom" border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj75GXFykoDV3uUXdyAvxUNSSSDwX1fCIzEdlnHArRyPsOjo7P4acp7H7tkyG3eR-r-DUPJUlhzMqHQFPn1yk7lAs9jOPh7A7GBRFNBd6uVMFyVW9t5BosP_1OAlSKww-9qxZm5abdvxHZr/s400/Tone-Curve-Tool_Flat-650x365444.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">click to enlarge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Looks much more flat, and the colors are less vibrant, too. This kind of
Curve adjustment can often serve B&W photographs very well. Have
you ever wondered why some of those black & white’s are so dreamy
and moody? A low contrast Curve might just be one of the reasons, take a
look:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwS4KWY-K_OKXvs-zG3yXtSL5F483AHZLqjUnony_tfP9c5OSrgblQ8q-XaaHGXjLLWaTgBI0iGLvscXECGRjilmrxH5Ie4X4WxbpxV49PIhhyphenhyphenDcWAbrsKBLgw5bj2d6ypN1lKWa2x30ql/s1600/Tone-Curve-Tool_Flat-BW-650x3655555.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Tone Curve in Tool Lightroom" border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwS4KWY-K_OKXvs-zG3yXtSL5F483AHZLqjUnony_tfP9c5OSrgblQ8q-XaaHGXjLLWaTgBI0iGLvscXECGRjilmrxH5Ie4X4WxbpxV49PIhhyphenhyphenDcWAbrsKBLgw5bj2d6ypN1lKWa2x30ql/s400/Tone-Curve-Tool_Flat-BW-650x3655555.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">click to enlarge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
3) Don’t Overcook It</h4>
Too much is usually not a good thing,
and <b>Tone Curve</b> adjustments follow this rule. Altering the Curve too
drastically may lead to blown-out highlights and pitch-black shadows, so
unless this is what you’re after, play safe and adjust the <i>Tone Curve</i>
along with Basic Panel settings to get the best result. Remember, while
it is one of the most powerful tools in <b>Lightroom</b>, you may end up
ruining your image just as easily as enhancing it.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIDoHTfyTcyOeaFpu8-WvMKnXxxfuZQGcKu07FyEolRIw-xE-ubXAbIOGm5a3YDBfGc1Mq6RKQ8d2CWDBXe7VK6GgtOg3vvxd_Trf_tUYE9sh5yIF_3nFBvEL06D0MQ9Mz2Zuh9tiet6gl/s1600/Tone-Curve-Tool_Too-Much-650x3656666.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Tone Curve in Tool Lightroom" border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIDoHTfyTcyOeaFpu8-WvMKnXxxfuZQGcKu07FyEolRIw-xE-ubXAbIOGm5a3YDBfGc1Mq6RKQ8d2CWDBXe7VK6GgtOg3vvxd_Trf_tUYE9sh5yIF_3nFBvEL06D0MQ9Mz2Zuh9tiet6gl/s400/Tone-Curve-Tool_Too-Much-650x3656666.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">click to enlarge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
4) Experiment!</h4>
You may find that you only need to alter
Lights, or Highlights, or maybe turn that straight line into a zigzag.
Experiment! It’s the best way you can learn quickly and find new
techniques to enhance your images on your own and then, hopefully, share
them with others.<br />
<br />
Related Article:<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/01/embracing-brightness-in-adobe-lightroom.html">Embracing Brightness in Adobe Lightroom</a></li>
<li><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/06/editing-lightroom-to-photoshop-as-smart.html" target="_blank">Editing Lightroom to Photoshop as a Smart Object </a></li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIDoHTfyTcyOeaFpu8-WvMKnXxxfuZQGcKu07FyEolRIw-xE-ubXAbIOGm5a3YDBfGc1Mq6RKQ8d2CWDBXe7VK6GgtOg3vvxd_Trf_tUYE9sh5yIF_3nFBvEL06D0MQ9Mz2Zuh9tiet6gl/s1600/Tone-Curve-Tool_Too-Much-650x3656666.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>Sugeng Ariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04530677626306210126noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1452076430190225984.post-60615323621055390172012-03-19T12:01:00.000-07:002012-03-19T12:01:19.746-07:00Create Human Levitation using Photoshop<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDoYXNbECuceegsc-fETSWZdqdklYRz1Yh3IQIgsBsz7eRrKocdd8o6JLHab66ButsrJyi82sPVcuB9K8Za3rO2JmCocNgB2t6dXtOxD2PzTTm-wpPDpJt5p0maYsBI6zO_x0fXxK2D4yj/s1600/human.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Create Human Levitation using Photoshop" border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDoYXNbECuceegsc-fETSWZdqdklYRz1Yh3IQIgsBsz7eRrKocdd8o6JLHab66ButsrJyi82sPVcuB9K8Za3rO2JmCocNgB2t6dXtOxD2PzTTm-wpPDpJt5p0maYsBI6zO_x0fXxK2D4yj/s200/human.jpg" width="188" /></a></div><b>Create a picture of human levitation</b> will look cool and it's very <b>easy to do with photoshop</b>. <br />
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The following tutorial will show you how to do such effect, all equipment that you need just digital camera, <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/06/tips-for-buying-tripods.html" target="_blank">tripod </a>and remote control as an additional complement if you want to take your own picture.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhqzTTvJ6W12iIs7ZRNH-WEauN-4IQgbeNT8_nEgOWX0JUpC812BCc_UJWcxKuqI-9jdT816JnhZL_U7e7hZuj74d7IajSNjLbrFSvRrPVDEF3F7zkfDKAo5AYNue26ra16R3JoqyfmprT/s1600/2zgvr5c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Create Human Levitation using Photoshop" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhqzTTvJ6W12iIs7ZRNH-WEauN-4IQgbeNT8_nEgOWX0JUpC812BCc_UJWcxKuqI-9jdT816JnhZL_U7e7hZuj74d7IajSNjLbrFSvRrPVDEF3F7zkfDKAo5AYNue26ra16R3JoqyfmprT/s1600/2zgvr5c.jpg" /></a></div><!-- google_ad_section_end --><br />
<h3>Looking for a place that you think is great for taking a shoot</h3>Do some test whether the light is good or not, place the camera with a tripod and star taking pictures. The first picture you take without involving the people in it, or we refer as a blank image, the second picture you took with person involved in it, it is advisable to use the remote control to <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2010/11/image-stabilisation-explained-in-camera.html" target="_blank"><span id="goog_1252357156"></span>avoid a camera shake<span id="goog_1252357157"></span> on tripod </a>because the first and second picture should be in the same position with the same camera settings.<br />
<i><b>(read<a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/06/setting-camera-aperture.html"> Setting the Camera Aperture</a> )</b></i><br />
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<h3>Take some shooting</h3>Take some shoot at a different place and form of levitation that you like or you thinks good.<br />
<h3>Edit all images in photoshop</h3>Import them/open them in photoshop. open your Blank shot. Then open the shot you want to use or your best ‘second’ shot. Copy the ‘second’ shot (ie the one with you standing on the object/holding the object). To do this hit (Ctrl +A/Cmd+A) and then paste into the first/blank shot (Ctrl +V/Cmd+V). You will see the two images in your layers pallette. Then ensure the ‘second shot’ is highlighted in the layers pallette (it will be pale blue to show it’s selected). Just under the layers is a small ‘layers mask icon’ – it’s a rectangle with a circle in it. Then chose quite a large soft edged brush (I would recommend a 100 to start with) and ‘delete’ the bits you don’t want by simply dragging the brush over it. You will see the background coming through and the objects you don’t want disappearing. Do this gradually to erase the evidence of what you were standing on. (Screenshot below). You will need to adjust the brush to get to some of the smaller edges. Keep doing this until you are finished and voila you/or an object are floating. <br />
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Now you can <b>create a picture of human levitation using photoshop</b>. The most important thing is make sure if the first image and second image has the same light, it will ease the <i>process of editing in photoshop</i>.<br />
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<b><u>Watch video tutorial below</u></b><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><object width="320" height="266" class="BLOGGER-youtube-video" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" data-thumbnail-src="http://0.gvt0.com/vi/TN8q_uNPOxQ/0.jpg"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/TN8q_uNPOxQ&fs=1&source=uds" /><param name="bgcolor" value="#FFFFFF" /><embed width="320" height="266" src="http://www.youtube.com/v/TN8q_uNPOxQ&fs=1&source=uds" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"></embed></object></div><b></b>Sugeng Ariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04530677626306210126noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1452076430190225984.post-64486027828367338552012-03-12T18:42:00.000-07:002012-03-12T18:42:33.975-07:00What do you need to prepare Portrait Photography<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGoVV-N6z1QuoYIEG9OAgxf3MuPqRvmDkTzZWUHDk9aAmQn3oLkLgESzQ0jbFUR2-aJPFoLUKn9VZyX9ZsdXj6qvbA2DAmGatSlu6EoudjfF5ESsB6PscSphTSWlFf_tA2MsCqDQVNe9eB/s1600/Spot_crop_small_280.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="What do you need to prepare Portrait Photography" border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGoVV-N6z1QuoYIEG9OAgxf3MuPqRvmDkTzZWUHDk9aAmQn3oLkLgESzQ0jbFUR2-aJPFoLUKn9VZyX9ZsdXj6qvbA2DAmGatSlu6EoudjfF5ESsB6PscSphTSWlFf_tA2MsCqDQVNe9eB/s200/Spot_crop_small_280.jpg" width="196" /></a></div><br />
<b>What do you need to prepare Portrait Photography</b> - Human face changes from time to time be a <i>challenge for portrait photography</i>, this makes <i>portrait phtotography</i> initially starting difficult for some photographers. <br />
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Persistence and skill required to get the best moment. there are some basics and prepare the best that could be a reference to<b> improve the quality of portrait phtotography significantly</b>. below are some tips you need to considera to <i>prepare for start portrait phtotography</i> .<br />
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<ul><li>Wear solid coloured clothing (patterns can be distracting or photograph poorly).</li>
<li>V-neck tops or shirts with collars accentuate the neck (men with long, slim necks should wear crew neck or collared shirts that can be buttoned up).</li>
<li>Don't wear turtle-necks unless you know that's the look you want. You could end up looking like a floating face.</li>
<li>Take a couple of shirt options if you're unsure (one black, one white or light colour - different collar styles).</li>
<li>Choose colours that compliment your skin tone.</li>
<li>Long sleeves tend to be better than short sleeves or tank tops, unless you have killer, sexy arms.</li>
<li>Your jacket, if you wear one, should contrast with your shirt.</li>
<li>Ties should also contrast with shirts.</li>
<li>Avoid ties with bold or loud patterns, unless, of course, that's the look you want.</li>
<li>Don't over-do makeup or jewelry. The more subtle, the better.</li>
<li>Wear make-up and jewelry that make you feel good. If you don't usually wear make-up, or it makes you feel awkward, don't wear it for your shoot.</li>
<li>Avoid logos of any kind. This is a photo of you, not an ad for that company.</li>
<li>Drink lots of water the day before and day of your shoot, eat a healthy, light meal before your shoot (this will help you look content and refreshed).</li>
<li>Bring water with you to the shoot, especially if having your picture taken makes you nervous.</li>
<li>If you're getting your hair cut, do it a week before your shoot so it has time to "settle."</li>
<li>If you're getting a perm, do it two weeks before the shoot so it has time to relax.</li>
<li>Bring a little make-up with you (if you wear it) for touch ups before/during the shoot.</li>
<li>Think about what you want your photos to look like. Surf the web for portraits or head shots to get an idea of what's out there. Your photographer probably has their own ideas, but should be happy to hear yours as well.</li>
<li>If you are nervous about having your photo taken, tell the photographer. They may have techniques to help you feel more comfortable.</li>
<li>If you are nervous or don't like having your photo taken, feel free to bring a friend who can chat with you during the shoot. Not all photographers encourage this, but it can be a great way to stay relaxed.</li>
<li>Don't be afraid to speak up if you aren't happy with how things are going. Feel free to make suggestions and ask questions.</li>
<li>Show up prepared to relax and have fun. Even if the shoot is for a more subdued or serious commercial head shot, your sense of calm and happiness will <i>make your photos more attractive</i>.</li>
</ul><br />
People who see the <i>portrait photo</i> can deduce more than just a photo of their clay, the result picture should show mood, personality and character, so they can attract conclusions about the portrait photo on the serve.Sugeng Ariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04530677626306210126noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1452076430190225984.post-18180041230879272032012-03-08T11:05:00.000-08:002012-03-08T11:05:49.115-08:00Urban Landscape Photography Tips for Novice<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEuKRAE2G2pHIvPuzzwK3MMGr2DOREZMQV_w19U7fncaxJa7-ujMtvW7zQ-e2sPjnG-gPzi2xayqx0oszRlEXP7opqJazhRza_7v1EYwiYGeTk-EsGefr06vNM-DDRtMCJ3CYY7UG4tX6n/s1600/18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Urban Landscape Photography Tips for Novice" border="0" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEuKRAE2G2pHIvPuzzwK3MMGr2DOREZMQV_w19U7fncaxJa7-ujMtvW7zQ-e2sPjnG-gPzi2xayqx0oszRlEXP7opqJazhRza_7v1EYwiYGeTk-EsGefr06vNM-DDRtMCJ3CYY7UG4tX6n/s200/18.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><br />
<b>Urban Landscape Photography Tips for Novice</b> - Views of the <b>urban landscape</b> has always been an <i>interesting to photoraph</i>.<br />
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The unique shape of the building and the people who perform certain activities are things that could be the subject of photography for experienced and novice photographer. here are some tips that that could be considered to get a good picture of urban landscape.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwZ7A8p6gTsdTxItGLULfjuphiT71wtJyXrHOTcFLj2pe1aeGNDx_7TlEOeae_rSdvgmBGupkt8d_0V9JnVVwa3agGKeRpg0MIZImGxrxML_uLKBBb0hLWPUPB4zpb3fstxrPncRwxQo79/s1600/Screen-Shot-2012-02-06-at-11.40.45-AM-575x383.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Urban Landscape Photography Tips for Novice" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwZ7A8p6gTsdTxItGLULfjuphiT71wtJyXrHOTcFLj2pe1aeGNDx_7TlEOeae_rSdvgmBGupkt8d_0V9JnVVwa3agGKeRpg0MIZImGxrxML_uLKBBb0hLWPUPB4zpb3fstxrPncRwxQo79/s1600/Screen-Shot-2012-02-06-at-11.40.45-AM-575x383.png" /></a></div><!-- google_ad_section_start --><br />
<h2>Bring the Right Gear for Urban Photography</h2>The effort for expensive <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/search/label/Camera%20Equipment" target="_blank">photography equipment</a> would'n be met for all photographers, but there some equipment that very helpfull to take pictures of the urban landscape.<br />
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<ul><li><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/06/tips-for-buying-tripods.html" target="_blank">Tripod</a>: helpfull to <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/09/colors-of-night-details-and-moods.html" target="_blank">take pictures at night </a>or for twilight </li>
<li><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/02/choosing-right-cannon-lenses-for.html" target="_blank">Addition lens</a> could be useful to the specific picture such as a <i>wide angle</i> and <i>zoom lens</i> that useful to get a picture in a different dimension like detail or a wider pictur.</li>
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<h2>Pick a Focus</h2>Every city is its own entity and conveys many different images. It is important to find those things which stand out to the photographer and resonate how they feel about the city they are capturing.<br />
Panoramic shots can be great for showing the city in all its glory. Focusing on one particular architectural element can be a<i> good way to create a set of photos</i>. Cities all have their own unique architecture, from graveyards and churches to old buildings and skyscrapers. One should find the areas of the city with these elements, even if it takes a little bit of exploration.<br />
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Also, sometimes the people that walk through the city are as interesting at the city itself or more so. Businessmen on their way to work, kids hanging about idly or districts that cater to a counter-culture all make good subjects.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyAt-jF5RLq-FWmoCcY1Qj5-CXGaBqIQm5baQYUh0BamqDBYTyKmJs5e19-vUVNtDP6HbngeHLjJL_RwZi-PuYyk4mIyN0eUCObKJwYwlOzoDy282LZqJAaz5yf2JUecIDW8R3GQJ31XQH/s1600/Screen-Shot-2012-02-06-at-11.39.58-AM-416x575.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyAt-jF5RLq-FWmoCcY1Qj5-CXGaBqIQm5baQYUh0BamqDBYTyKmJs5e19-vUVNtDP6HbngeHLjJL_RwZi-PuYyk4mIyN0eUCObKJwYwlOzoDy282LZqJAaz5yf2JUecIDW8R3GQJ31XQH/s1600/Screen-Shot-2012-02-06-at-11.39.58-AM-416x575.png" /></a></div><br />
<h2>Choosing the Right Time</h2>If one is looking to get quiet and clean photos of the city, the morning is the best time, since it is less busy. This is the prime time for doing architectural shots. When looking for a more active time, lunch hour or a busy Friday night will bring the people into the streets.<br />
Bright, <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/06/photography-tips-for-vibrant-colour.html" target="_blank"><b>vibrant photos </b></a>will require shooting when the sun is high, while times such as dawn or dusk have their own appeal. Ultimately, the best thing to do is to make time and spend an entire day shooting in order to get the widest variety of lighting.<br />
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<h2>Things to Keep in Mind</h2>When <i>looking for a good photo opportunity</i>, there are some things to keep in mind regarding composition. By paying attention to one’s surroundings, a shot will often present itself by observing some basic rules of photography.<br />
<ul><li><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/06/viewpoint-and-angles-in-photography.html" target="_blank">Angles</a> – Find new and interesting angles to use and take lots of pictures from many different angles. </li>
<li>Contrast – Seek out contrasts in visual elements such as architecture styles, textures and colors. </li>
<li>Theme – Pick a theme and photograph with that theme in mind to create a set of photos that work together. </li>
</ul>Even when one does not know what they wish to photograph, being able to use these elements will produce good photos simply by their own virtues.<br />
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Be Creative and Be PatientNever be afraid to try things out and be experimental with photography. Even if unsure of a shot, take it anyway and take a dozen. Sometimes looking at photos later will reveal something interesting that one did not see at the time of the photograph’s taking and inspire them creatively.<br />
Also, one should be prepared for a huge pile of photos that never quite work out. It pays to take more photos than one thinks is necessary, just in case a subtle variation in two similar shots makes the difference between mediocre and great. Photography is ultimately a learning process, and every photo, good or bad, has a lesson to teach.<br />
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Source Article : <a href="http://landscapephotographyblog.com/" target="_blank">http://landscapephotographyblog.com/ </a><br />
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Related Article :<br />
<ul><li><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/12/street-photography-amateur-beginers.html">Street Photography : Amateur Beginer's Guide</a> </li>
<li><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/09/tips-for-urban-photography.html">10 Tips for Urban Photography</a> </li>
</ul><ul></ul>Sugeng Ariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04530677626306210126noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1452076430190225984.post-89052588351760397812012-02-20T18:45:00.000-08:002012-02-20T18:47:42.421-08:0010 Parks Photography tips from Ralph Lee Hopkins<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzqHxJHufo5kQrxOxiUtFDYeHasfTLE5ycl7Z9SuijKQXmilFOLmEPEVlINa-PmStKSzx47sg1oEB0edvDpmZgUwHlrIS2DhPFNN81Ht_Xx_poM3Oef8V_nujkMpL96OobhDKEAuaHVeaj/s1600/guest_3550.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Parks Photography tips from Ralph Lee Hopkins " border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzqHxJHufo5kQrxOxiUtFDYeHasfTLE5ycl7Z9SuijKQXmilFOLmEPEVlINa-PmStKSzx47sg1oEB0edvDpmZgUwHlrIS2DhPFNN81Ht_Xx_poM3Oef8V_nujkMpL96OobhDKEAuaHVeaj/s200/guest_3550.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>Catching <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/02/10-parks-photography-tips-from-ralph.html" target="_blank"><b>photographing wildlife in the Park</b></a> could represent the most exciting and unforgettable feels you may get in the Park. <br />
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The Park offers entire landmarks and ecosytems presenting complete collections of the flora and fauna that<i> really amazing to photograph</i>.In this article <a href="http://photography.nationalgeographic.com/photography/photographers/photographer-ralph-lee-hopkins/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Ralph Lee Hopkins </a>from <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/05/how-to-become-national-geographic.html" target="_blank">National Geographic</a> share <b>10 Parks Photography tips</b> that he determined all over years of shooting photos, both indoor and outdoor the park. Some you might have already discovered, and some might not hold to you.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW3FuJg5FRQs4Jx0RQkHkP_v-890d2likggYyBJb60jx4YbCVxylDpxM6I4iDMgA38T6hcFRq2XzY1P_YsEELwbQfMLlFFyrwHT-xHMST_HUOK621njOrdjwFMMz6kY5DpIJyVLw0ZYJHv/s1600/baja_lizard_hop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW3FuJg5FRQs4Jx0RQkHkP_v-890d2likggYyBJb60jx4YbCVxylDpxM6I4iDMgA38T6hcFRq2XzY1P_YsEELwbQfMLlFFyrwHT-xHMST_HUOK621njOrdjwFMMz6kY5DpIJyVLw0ZYJHv/s1600/baja_lizard_hop.jpg" /></a></div><!-- amazon --> <br />
<h3>1. Get out before sunrise.</h3>This is when most people are still sleeping, and the animals are up and out. The morning mist still lingers, and, if lucky, some ground fog may add to the atmosphere. In addition, the wind is usually calm at this time, making for <span id="goog_1055618275"></span><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/04/macro-photography-lets-get-started.html" target="_blank">easy macro shooting</a><span id="goog_1055618276"></span>.<br />
<h3>2. Stay out late as well</h3>The best light for <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">photography </a>happens when the sun is low along the horizon. We call this the “golden hour,” when the light is like butter, and everything looks great.<br />
<h3>3. Stay until dark for low-light scenes</h3>With the new digital cameras, we can just about shoot in the dark. Animals come out as darkness approaches, and we can get these shots of them by turning our ISO up, making the cameras more sensitive to light. (read article abou <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/01/photographing-low-light-portraits.html" target="_blank">Photographing Low light portraits</a>)<br />
<h3>4. Experiment with wildlife and technique</h3>Try to experiment with panning the animals as they move. They may be walking, running, or flying, but by slowing down the shutter speed and moving the camera, some really nice “action shots” can be achieved. This time, turn your ISO down, making the shutter speed about 1/15th of a second (to start). Experimentation is the name of the game here, and with digital, we can see our results instantly.<br />
<h3>5. Don’t forget to enjoy your surroundings</h3>During the middle part of the day, when the light is not so good, leave your camera, and get out and hike. Enjoy the sights, smells, and sounds of the park. Of course, keep in mind what might make a good image with the right light, but mostly enjoy.<br />
<h3>6. Find a subject and try something new</h3>When you find an interesting subject, look at it from different angles. This not only will change your perspective, but also allow you to see how the light changes the image. Don’t always shoot with the sun over your shoulder. Move to get the sun at a right angle, or shoot into the sun, a technique called backlighting.<br />
(read article about<a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/05/backlighting-in-photography-simple-way.html"> Backlighting in photography, Simple way for dramatical photo</a> ) .<br />
<h3>7. Don’t put your subject in the middle of the frame</h3>OK, shoot it that way if you like, but then try placing the subject in different parts of the frame. Remember, with digital cameras it’s all free—the only thing you’ll spend is your time looking at the images later.<br />
<h3>8. Try a polarizing filter</h3>This filter increases contrast, takes haze out of the atmosphere, and takes reflections off water surfaces. The filter needs to be turned while you look through the camera to see the effects, but I use it all the time. Yes, it takes away almost two stops of light, but you can always turn up the ISO to compensate.<br />
<h3>9. Respect the wild animals in our parks</h3>Remember that they are wild animals and need their space to stay wild. Maybe more important, your own safety is at stake here. Keep your distance.<br />
<h3>10. Hike out on your own</h3>I find that most people in our parks stay near their cars when taking pictures. Find a trail and head out. You may find that you can leave the crowds behind, have a better experience, and make better pictures. Be sure to plan ahead by checking out the park’s safety tips, and always adhere to any rules and guidelines.<br />
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Hopefully you'll determine something in this <b>10 Parks Photography tips</b> that will assist you get the shot you want on your next trip.<br />
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Source : <a href="http://photography.nationalgeographic.com/" target="_blank">http://photography.nationalgeographic.com/ </a><br />
<br />
Related Articles:<br />
<ul><li><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/07/how-to-photographing-wildlife-in-easliy.html" target="_blank">How to photographing Wildlife in Easliy Way</a></li>
<li><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/02/captures-animals-on-camera-experient.html" target="_blank">Captures Animals On Camera : Experient from National Geographic Photographer Joel Sartore</a></li>
</ul>Sugeng Ariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04530677626306210126noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1452076430190225984.post-75329284344043733032012-02-17T18:45:00.005-08:002012-02-18T14:00:34.105-08:00Choosing the right Cannon lenses for certain type of photography<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd_AMpPCUJwrB4HwG3PLLykhcaCvEBNNMis2q8XHPuC3EpQFcftfWqqlkhQODOJJcXq9SASG5zxSjR8vmD_dRmBIqViH-ZiO8iBtH8rCjbM1VJafQ7u4_cF19dSwKZ7YBzvedxYHi_aSnn/s200/ef100isl.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd_AMpPCUJwrB4HwG3PLLykhcaCvEBNNMis2q8XHPuC3EpQFcftfWqqlkhQODOJJcXq9SASG5zxSjR8vmD_dRmBIqViH-ZiO8iBtH8rCjbM1VJafQ7u4_cF19dSwKZ7YBzvedxYHi_aSnn/s200/ef100isl.gif" /></a></div><b>Choosing the right cannon lenses for certain type of photography</b> can assist contribute more creative control to digital photography. <br />
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The job could turn a complex trade off between price, size, weight, lens speed and picture quality. This tutorial aims to give you <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/02/choosing-right-cannon-lenses-for.html"><b>lenses refference for canon slr camera</b></a> by supplying a basic review of concepts relating to image quality, focal length , perspective, prime vs. zoom lenses and aperture or f-number.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdstkf1RM1ukN6EDFJaauP4f3rWm5Z8bfe0xgTxZksrtt8Nlf5kpVmsacyFW-Xp4_z6MebAxkFhaSDisB6SjlUZHHpOT2pb9OPXYYmzg1w8oKqqNNRwGlYYcZKOkBccXdoJiby8eJdd5db/s1600/lenses.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Choosing the right Cannon lenses for certain type of photography" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdstkf1RM1ukN6EDFJaauP4f3rWm5Z8bfe0xgTxZksrtt8Nlf5kpVmsacyFW-Xp4_z6MebAxkFhaSDisB6SjlUZHHpOT2pb9OPXYYmzg1w8oKqqNNRwGlYYcZKOkBccXdoJiby8eJdd5db/s1600/lenses.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<h2>Choosing the right Cannon lenses for Beginners Photography</h2>For those new to the field of photography, it is important to balance professional performance with adaptable and practical application.<br />
<h3>-Canon EF 50mm f/1.2 L USM Lens</h3>A highly versatile lens makes this a perfect lens for beginners looking for a high performance output with ease of use.<br />
<h3>-Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6L IS USM UD Telephoto Zoom Lens</h3>An excellent and flexible investment for the serious amateur with an interest in a variety of photography mediums.<br />
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<h2>Choosing the right Cannon lenses for Sport and Action Photography</h2>Shooting high-action events require on-the-spot configurations and super-fast autofocus details to capture the nuances of the moving subjects.<br />
<h3>-Canon EF 70-200mm f/4 L IS USM Lens- </h3>This lightweight lens offers superior performance with advanced image stabilization (IS) and low apertures perfect for capturing fast moving subjects.<br />
<h3>-Canon EF 400mm f/4 DO IS USM Super Telephoto Lens</h3>Super image stabilization and diffractive optics combine with a fast and reliable auto-focus to capture the best sharp images in action and sports photography.<br />
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<h2>Choosing the right Cannon lenses for Portraits Photography</h2>Portraits are the windows to the soul of the photographer’s subject and present a challenging and beautiful medium for translating the often unseen world of what lies beneath the mundane surface of people, places, and things.<br />
<h3>-Canon EF 85mm f/1.2L II USM </h3>A versatile lens offering beautiful color rendition and depth of field; perfect for portrait work or semi-stationary subject matter.<br />
<h3>-Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM Lens</h3>Meets the demands of professional and amateur work, this highly versatile lens is suited to a variety of settings including portrait work with a wide zoom range and IS technology.<br />
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<h2>Choosing the right Cannon lenses for Wedding Photography</h2>With weddings, there are no “do overs” and missing that perfect shot could mean a permanently missed opportunity. With this in mind it is important for amateur and professional photographers to have the right kind of lens to suit the varying needs of the event.<br />
<h3>-Canon EF 200mm f/2L IS USM Telephoto Lens</h3>features powerful performance and fast autofocus, as well as two stabilizer buttons to produce sharp and clear images every time.<br />
<h3>-Canon TS-E 45 mm Lens</h3>A unique tilt shift lens allows freedom to capture beautiful wedding shots in creative and unconventional ways, with super sharp images and adjustable tilt-shift planes.<br />
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<h2>Choosing the right Cannon lenses for Low light Photography</h2>Low light situations present a unique set of challenges as well as stunning opportunities to create and capture the rare and beautiful often concealed under the veil of shadow or lack of light.<br />
<h3>-Canon TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II Ultra Wide Tilt-Shift Lens</h3>Refinement and excellence are key elements in this unique lens with 8.5 degrees of tilt and 12 mm of shift to capture the best in perspective work.<br />
<h3>-Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II USM Ultra Wide Angle Zoom Lens</h3>Another excellent selection featuring crisp and clean images with a stunningly quick autofocus feature.<br />
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<h2>Choosing the right Cannon lenses for Landscape Photography</h2>Landscapes are the artistic statement of the natural and man-made world, requiring the elegance and sophisticated approach of a suitable lens.<br />
<h3>-Canon 14mm f/2.8L II USM Ultra-Wide Angle Lens</h3>With a round six blade aperture and flare-reducing lens coating, this specialized lens allows for unique panoramic shots without fisheye or linear distortion.<br />
<h3>-Canon TS-E 90mm Tilt Shift Lens</h3>Open the door the new creative possibilities with a tilt and shift axis of 90 degrees and an adaptable plane of focus.<br />
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Source Article : <a href="http://www.picturecorrect.com/">http://www.picturecorrect.com/</a>Sugeng Ariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04530677626306210126noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1452076430190225984.post-34513313142941004912012-02-13T02:47:00.000-08:002012-02-13T03:00:42.870-08:00Favorite Picture Editing App for Travel Photography<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0lxuQKhtbrygm8EkoP7cJ9Z-lmEg1dtj99O0bCE5wRlyxuBIQzyXRKAr5s8vGIbTk5ndPNe2VPo1HGwfnVxMrHJfweffmdfZcPhIMqU5rgZSmrP1iN2KV0w9s3edE4Hs1VgmutXg_kxnQ/s1600/photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Favorite Picture Editing App for Travel Photography" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0lxuQKhtbrygm8EkoP7cJ9Z-lmEg1dtj99O0bCE5wRlyxuBIQzyXRKAr5s8vGIbTk5ndPNe2VPo1HGwfnVxMrHJfweffmdfZcPhIMqU5rgZSmrP1iN2KV0w9s3edE4Hs1VgmutXg_kxnQ/s200/photo.jpg" width="199" /></a></div><br />
In just a couple of years headphones have become transformed from simple communication devices into interactional devices where today can take wonderful pictures.<br />
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With this newfound ability to produce superiority traveling snaps have also come a bevy of apps to assist you to transform that humdrum photo into a work of art. The <b>variety of apps</b> can be confusing and since most of them are fee-based, below are some<a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/02/favorite-picture-editing-app-for-travel.html"><b> favorite picture editing App for travel Photography.</b></a><br />
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<h2>1.Camera+ </h2><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUJ7x7qcLqugp1VRjPEMTX9QTg_Bl3d21N-B-rTS90dCZ6XKsc7mn1VgCOsSY2W6SBYI27FDC_RiC68rvWcgqAxWKdRbegtOOTckt1Zh383c89p69z8is4EcDnXqJFekqLAC_2ESpnLxED/s1600/6817782731_c422dd6556_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Favorite Picture Editing App for Travel Photography" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUJ7x7qcLqugp1VRjPEMTX9QTg_Bl3d21N-B-rTS90dCZ6XKsc7mn1VgCOsSY2W6SBYI27FDC_RiC68rvWcgqAxWKdRbegtOOTckt1Zh383c89p69z8is4EcDnXqJFekqLAC_2ESpnLxED/s1600/6817782731_c422dd6556_z.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Camera+ came highly recommended, this is one of the most comprehensive and easy to understand apps, especially important since most of us aren’t professional photographers.<b> Camera+ allows you to choose any photo</b> and edit with traditional methods such as cropping, lighting and borders. But it also features a wide range of photo effects that can transform a photo into a professional work of art. Fantastic app for getting the most out of your photography.<br />
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<h2>2. Instagram </h2><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwJqSA8hLsg19CRi3KGYvZkPMTsEEvCf2OIL-NO94vWZTMaLdakNvl9esR2onuveT4_-DUBdwAqgRh4jfAb98IjRrJuNAzApFVnxbuO2Yx4ZU77V-D89YkNyD5f9a1mKeOveYNKyqTcoib/s1600/6817783071_58680fc658_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="alt=" app="" editing="" favorite="" for="" photography"="" picture="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwJqSA8hLsg19CRi3KGYvZkPMTsEEvCf2OIL-NO94vWZTMaLdakNvl9esR2onuveT4_-DUBdwAqgRh4jfAb98IjRrJuNAzApFVnxbuO2Yx4ZU77V-D89YkNyD5f9a1mKeOveYNKyqTcoib/s1600/6817783071_58680fc658_z.jpg" travel="" /></a></div><br />
One of the most popular photo apps out there, <b>Instagram is a great way to not just edit your photos</b>, but to share them with your friends. Like Camera+ it enables users to edit using a wide collection of fun and dramatic filters but it doesn’t stop there. Yes, you can share the finished product with friends on Twitter, Facebook and email, but Instagram itself is also a social network. Friends, family and other interested people can follow your photo feed and you theirs. It’s a fun way to see what everyone is doing, including some amazing photography using their iPhones and iPads.<br />
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<h2>3. FlickStackr </h2><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge1G3wAdSrwk-FKfhSmPq_0yBfWRvk8q0sHYuHmN7GmR4ygi-cPQ2nL1mWJfNCDVZcTdHfwiqMpqxTXKogS3nXGrXHq8tDw8m-fuLB20_x63cbmEVbo0PZm5IRKXv065WzlmsBlkngQQpR/s1600/6817783439_955d0a7187_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="alt=" app="" border="0" editing="" favorite="" for="" photography""="" picture="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge1G3wAdSrwk-FKfhSmPq_0yBfWRvk8q0sHYuHmN7GmR4ygi-cPQ2nL1mWJfNCDVZcTdHfwiqMpqxTXKogS3nXGrXHq8tDw8m-fuLB20_x63cbmEVbo0PZm5IRKXv065WzlmsBlkngQQpR/s1600/6817783439_955d0a7187_z.jpg" travel="" /></a></div><br />
Store your photos on Flickr, <b>FlickStackr easy to use</b> with website that stores and allows you to edit all of your travel photos. For easier access, I’ve installed this app on my iPad so that I can look through my photos and download specific ones to my iPad to edit in complementary apps. You can also upload from your iPhone or iPad directly to your Flickr account, so it’s easy to save those great mobile photos. It’s also a great travel album, so I can find any photo no matter where I am. There are several Flickr interface apps, but this is my favorite and the one I use most often.<br />
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<h2>4. PhotoPad </h2><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiUH62o6xLgV4mAW1EkVUJTODedcwvId-kHHS4TVLpbScYCxWmAwDJkmnBLLEYbHRVcmF4BjD6GmVUSCa36fyA8MC7E12YE5ctqnN8BohcuxvdypsteFnjxEuc58SV4YTt0HyE36d7Uh1H/s1600/6817783757_38fb934a39_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="alt=" app="" border="0" editing="" favorite="" for="" photography"="" picture="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiUH62o6xLgV4mAW1EkVUJTODedcwvId-kHHS4TVLpbScYCxWmAwDJkmnBLLEYbHRVcmF4BjD6GmVUSCa36fyA8MC7E12YE5ctqnN8BohcuxvdypsteFnjxEuc58SV4YTt0HyE36d7Uh1H/s1600/6817783757_38fb934a39_z.jpg" travel="" /></a></div><br />
PhotoPad apps doesn’t necessarily do anything unique but it’s main utility is that it was designed for the iPad and is extremely easy to use. <b>PhotoPad is great for quick resizing of photos</b>, cropping or any other simple photo editing chore. you can then upload the photos to my Photo Stream or on Flickr. In addition to its utility, it’s also free, a rarity for photo editing apps.<br />
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<h2>5. Snapseed </h2><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjD-Kvf3WTzmQEV3qGzpV321TFYvObSoBKNnTN1yJlS6C4d5SjdJUB_hQUYjYwalQ54sV-77E_7C1DLcrwUb_FkIJ1I1zCvXksGbfqNEqL98IvsbUTVXAZo27O9eP-PwGzLX_5bGAGfjOD/s1600/IMG_0696.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="alt=" app="" border="0" editing="" favorite="" for="" height="464" photography"="" picture="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjD-Kvf3WTzmQEV3qGzpV321TFYvObSoBKNnTN1yJlS6C4d5SjdJUB_hQUYjYwalQ54sV-77E_7C1DLcrwUb_FkIJ1I1zCvXksGbfqNEqL98IvsbUTVXAZo27O9eP-PwGzLX_5bGAGfjOD/s640/IMG_0696.jpg" travel="" width="640" /></a></div><br />
This is a fun, <b>Snapseed is smart photo app</b> that can do a lot without intimidating the novice user. You can tweak the entire image or just certain portions of it, add visually stunning filters and even share the finished product with friends via a variety of social media and email plugins. I like this app because it has different versions for both the iPad and the iPhone, ensuring a smooth editing experience. A lot of people use this as their default editing app and I now understand why.<br />
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<b>Related Article: </b><br />
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Source : <a href="http://landlopers.com/" rel="nofollow">http://landlopers.com/</a><br />
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<ul><li><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/06/tips-on-digital-photo-restoration-in.html">Tips on Digital Photo Restoration in Photoshop</a> </li>
<li><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/02/corels-aftershot-pro.html">Corel’s AfterShot Pro</a></li>
</ul>Sugeng Ariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04530677626306210126noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1452076430190225984.post-70945205763131776222012-02-11T13:15:00.000-08:002012-02-11T16:37:35.663-08:00How to control Depth of Field<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioEDGxG8n52GD4I75UbVDoKQ8IXeGYZeVkae20Iq5soRaS3vJ-eWGROL7OxX2sqGnTbrDNvxxX9HVX_h7bGXTW96wbvyfVTsRswODUd2uer2njjPM00hnqCk1ovAxAtUgOrFr5eiSxsTO2/s1600/depth-of-field-1-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="How to control Depth of Field" border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioEDGxG8n52GD4I75UbVDoKQ8IXeGYZeVkae20Iq5soRaS3vJ-eWGROL7OxX2sqGnTbrDNvxxX9HVX_h7bGXTW96wbvyfVTsRswODUd2uer2njjPM00hnqCk1ovAxAtUgOrFr5eiSxsTO2/s200/depth-of-field-1-1.jpg" width="166" /></a></div><br />
<b>Depth of field (DOF) </b>deals with how much of a picture is sharp in front and back of when you attend to the main subject. <b>How to control Depth of field (DOF) </b>is mainly depended by aperture size though other factors come into play including the focal distance of the lens and the space the background is from the subject. <br />
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Photographers may consciously <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/02/how-to-control-depth-of-field.html"><b>control depth of field</b></a> for artistic designs, aiming to achieve attractive background blur known as bokeh. For example, a shallow depth of field is usually used when taking close up. <br />
<i><b>(Read Article :<a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/11/obtain-camera-for-maximum-bokeh.html"> Obtain Camera for Maximum Bokeh</a> )</b></i><br />
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<h2>More (deep) Depth of Field</h2><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuTnQU9mYphlH3K9PtuU2tKiPEjFldP67dxiBMgwDBDKXA8ELyzl66ggWQrAsySssummdCBDUr7sVrb0ULErWHgM82jWSZUSxsCNLTuAD9jZb4Nos-ImZS04Dqn984zZtAG3ipQyVa3oa7/s1600/dof-deep.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="How to control Depth of Field" border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuTnQU9mYphlH3K9PtuU2tKiPEjFldP67dxiBMgwDBDKXA8ELyzl66ggWQrAsySssummdCBDUr7sVrb0ULErWHgM82jWSZUSxsCNLTuAD9jZb4Nos-ImZS04Dqn984zZtAG3ipQyVa3oa7/s320/dof-deep.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><b>Deep depth of field </b>imply that all or most of the image is in focus from front to back. It is often used for catching subjects in the distance, such as in landscape panoramas. <br />
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The further away your camera is from the subject, the greater the depth of field. <br />
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Higher f-stop numbers obtained by using small scale apertures <i>create deep depth of field</i>. Short focal length, as well as each time a lens is set at wide angle, help <i>increase depth of field</i>. <br />
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<h2>Less (shallow) Depth of Field</h2><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDFzfX9DbluFxJdDU6Mqcu1_T9hMDEYBFVrVb180F5pGkZXWHQtL-VNvvDzzmit6w89KPzhNmoTH_E31Tb7vTf_V40h32rzfK9sJqroSgvq3BZZg8OE9CBdzFIJ35gGWATSRumkkHK5TnH/s1600/dof-shallow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="How to control Depth of Field" border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDFzfX9DbluFxJdDU6Mqcu1_T9hMDEYBFVrVb180F5pGkZXWHQtL-VNvvDzzmit6w89KPzhNmoTH_E31Tb7vTf_V40h32rzfK9sJqroSgvq3BZZg8OE9CBdzFIJ35gGWATSRumkkHK5TnH/s320/dof-shallow.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><b>Less depth of field</b> show that a subject is in focussing but objects in front and in the back of it appear out of focus. Less DOF is often wanted when taking portraiture, close-up and macro shots.<br />
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Lower f-stops (larger apertures) decrease DOF. Long focal length (zooming in) produce less DOF. <br />
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You can also create the background look out of focus by placing the subject close to the camera and having the background far away. <br />
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If you cannot manually control aperture, use <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/06/bokeh-effect-in-child-portraits.html" target="_blank">Portrait style </a>for <b>shallow depth of field</b>. For deep depth of field, <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/06/trick-to-get-correct-exposure-on.html" target="_blank">use Landscape</a> or Infinity mode. <br />
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<h2>How to control Depth of Field Video Tutorial</h2><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/uzedefUXARE?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br />
<b>Related Article: </b><br />
<ul><li><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/06/photoshop-tutorial-to-create-realistic.html">How to Create Realistic Depth of Field in Photoshop</a> </li>
<li><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/04/macro-photography-lets-get-started.html">Macro Photography, lets get started</a></li>
</ul>Sugeng Ariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04530677626306210126noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1452076430190225984.post-4795439727446333172012-02-10T02:37:00.000-08:002012-02-10T02:37:49.826-08:00Female Photography from Dmitry Ageev<!-- google_ad_section_start --><br />
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<b>Dmitry ageev</b> is Russia based photographer. The bodies of work featured here are highly glamourous, he is great in manage <b>female photography</b> in portrait mode and took the <i>standard portrait photography</i> to a whole fresh new level.<br />
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He states at his website that photography its not just about a work but also a way of living, I couldnt find much more because Russian translations because he isn't native speaker in english. But photographs like music, that there's no language exclusions. I admire his style of work, so let me share his work in <b>handling female photography</b>.<br />
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</div>Related Article :<br />
<ul><li><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/01/female-photography-inspiration-from.html" target="_blank">Female photography inspiration from Teresa Queiròs</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=1452076430190225984&postID=3561232306193084098" target="_blank">8 Tips for Fashion Photography</a></li>
</ul>Sugeng Ariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04530677626306210126noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1452076430190225984.post-86037556371417005722012-02-09T23:17:00.000-08:002012-02-09T23:19:57.237-08:00Tips for Photographing Reflection<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2_-KTbXEsMOJpkoeoVezwAkFDGtrkFVB7ry6upBJuFt6csFXLi668kSmXB-UPUkAVw1kXj1L-TBxTIcBR2Se8ikBXGOasoc9rBukx6RyOYrBtzXIeUHs7cGZ8XjgKqbwJc3pgtE7lyhWF/s1600/reflections.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear:right; float:right; margin-left:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img alt="Tips for Photographing Reflection" border="0" height="266" width="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2_-KTbXEsMOJpkoeoVezwAkFDGtrkFVB7ry6upBJuFt6csFXLi668kSmXB-UPUkAVw1kXj1L-TBxTIcBR2Se8ikBXGOasoc9rBukx6RyOYrBtzXIeUHs7cGZ8XjgKqbwJc3pgtE7lyhWF/s320/reflections.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<b>Reflection</b> are a mainstay of <i>photography</i>, and with good reason - reflections are everyplace in the world around us, and can supply a variety of effects results , from dramatic symmetrical sunsets to window portraits. Here's some idea, trick and <b>tips for photographing reflection</b> . <br />
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Utilizing reflections is one of the most popularand <i>powerful techniques in photography</i>, from beautiful sunsets to lonely <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/05/backlighting-in-photography-simple-way.html" target="_blank">silhouettes</a>. Here are some tips and tricks for the many ways in which you can apply reflections to <i>photograph a fantastic picture</i>.The focus of the image could be something totally different , while the reflection itself simply provides a subtle, simple background. <br />
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<h2>Photographing Reflection of Water Planes</h2>Likely the most common form of <b>reflection photography</b> out there, but that doesn't imply that it's all just clich. Dramatic skyscapes reflected on water are a mainstaythe symmetry provides for double the beauty, after. Beyond that, many photographers select to combine it up with silhouettes <b>(Read<a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2010/11/how-to-photograph-silhouettes-in-8-easy.html"> How to Photograph Silhouettes in 8 Easy Steps</a>)</b>, usual water characteristics such as docks, but also human silhouettes or the natural curved shape of the shore. Nor does the<i> reflection have to be the focusing of the image</i>. The focus of the image could be something many different, while the reflection itself merely provides a subtle, simple background.<br />
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and with good reason : not only is the water is more likely to be calm, but the colors and clouds of the sky also are usually more spectacular . Take a walk in a park near you maybe with a friend for some silhouettes or brainstorming, or maybe with just a close look for interesting features and lines.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW4uGpmVifZJPDf57zUP6JNrFrNUQwm7p7tfxpJb36uBjIDfUxyFrskM2eKuPykbQ8OLromhLVyYpD5du1eBPfN6AyJgQMJPmQhDyKifplYNOofQSYPguhAZAf3OohmsZHkOzvsTawqOU/s1600/1AF7F686D8DC1E80BA30F44B0FF6F261935BC903_large.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Tips for Photographing Reflection" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW4uGpmVifZJPDf57zUP6JNrFrNUQwm7p7tfxpJb36uBjIDfUxyFrskM2eKuPykbQ8OLromhLVyYpD5du1eBPfN6AyJgQMJPmQhDyKifplYNOofQSYPguhAZAf3OohmsZHkOzvsTawqOU/s320/1AF7F686D8DC1E80BA30F44B0FF6F261935BC903_large.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg94XpSi9v4X-wroHuidjXxHH19PyBxgmQxt3lJ3rTrz3BnMfPQIFELZ0BXGxMpa4ECg7GFUe2i_v5dyo4oYXTRXv-fEi_7iipAlG4fqgtQABKmaJ18W83Kf5NeeP7gmdqVSOWjmWE7KaM/s1600/1FC1E5E05180F35B9485B674943380292947E1D3_large.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Tips for Photographing Reflection" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg94XpSi9v4X-wroHuidjXxHH19PyBxgmQxt3lJ3rTrz3BnMfPQIFELZ0BXGxMpa4ECg7GFUe2i_v5dyo4oYXTRXv-fEi_7iipAlG4fqgtQABKmaJ18W83Kf5NeeP7gmdqVSOWjmWE7KaM/s320/1FC1E5E05180F35B9485B674943380292947E1D3_large.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVvQhwx-isowbS1NvEdlRuhXyz3HcQEbMaE2gTrN8-1JM6Yaqb-3g7jYbCASCEmRBPHc-6WMlTZAAJtZO0ouB5W5PXxufZxa-yzJOyCkgpI2b7bl0Y1CRhW8SPOVrCe0NjWTBFNeKN0N0/s1600/B98687E8B256AB7D8E9BE4D1DC45309B508DEB78_large.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Tips for Photographing Reflection" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVvQhwx-isowbS1NvEdlRuhXyz3HcQEbMaE2gTrN8-1JM6Yaqb-3g7jYbCASCEmRBPHc-6WMlTZAAJtZO0ouB5W5PXxufZxa-yzJOyCkgpI2b7bl0Y1CRhW8SPOVrCe0NjWTBFNeKN0N0/s320/B98687E8B256AB7D8E9BE4D1DC45309B508DEB78_large.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<h2>Photographing Reflection of Glass Panes.</h2>We aren't just for water as a reflective medium, nevertheless . In our present times of glass and steel, manmade reflective surfaces abound. While sunsets and storm clouds look wonderful on the face of a skyscraper, all of these surfaces are only half-reflectivewhich in itself can be used as a powerful tool. A pane of glass can be a window to both the inside and outside worlds, a medium for <i>very surrealistic effects</i> . <br />
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Experiment with the manmade surfaces around you. They don't have to be perfectly reflectivedirty glass, while perhaps not the prettiest for a passerby, can offer a gritty noir mood to a photograph. Partial reflections can be used to juxtapose numerous views on top of each other, so keep an eye out on your environments. A walk through any urban environment and a creative eye is bound to be fruitful. <br />
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<h2>Photographing Reflection of Droplets.</h2>Naturally, there's no necessary in <i>reflection photography</i> that the reflective surface has to be flat. Droplets are a outstanding illustration of this. All around us, soon after a rain or after the sprinkler goes off or after the morning dew, they give a curving window into reality, reflecting and refracting the light source in often dramatic styles fashions <b>(Read<a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/01/photography-and-light-light-size.html"> Photography and light source</a> )</b>. Alone or in groups, in focus or out, they sparkle or they reflect, they complicate or clarify an image. <br />
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However, with such small things being the subject of your picture , you'll have to choose some particular technical attention . A primer in f-stop, aperture and general macro photography is an absolute must <b>(Read<a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/04/macro-photography-lets-get-started.html"> Macro Photography, lets get started</a> )</b>. In addition, a good dose of patience is required, to get that reflections exactly right. The patience definitely pays off, however, and the creative potentialis unbounded. <br />
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<h2>When Reflections Aren't Wanted</h2>Of course ... sometimes a reflection isn't completely suitable to photograph as you should take, be it off a bald head or if the picture you 're trying to take truly is on the other side of a piece of the glass. There are a few things you can do if you don't desire a reflection in your photography. <br />
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When the reflection is beginning in a medium that you are attempting to photograph, say, the sky on the water when you want an image of the fish, then a polarizing lens might be in order. Basically, they work to lessen reflectivity in surfaces. Also, play by using an angle from which you are taking the shoot to try out and cut down glare, or take the image in a situation with less shining light.Sugeng Ariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04530677626306210126noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1452076430190225984.post-66692008040855722992012-02-08T08:05:00.000-08:002012-02-08T08:07:38.262-08:00Create Bokeh Effect using Photoshop<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEc1I2P4MLLA1DPTPAbXcxsuW-N8QtxitdBdJdU46tQX1dn66RH97lKAkzO9Jinia5ACtwm27zDcFgKe5ItQ4ya4lT6vrwm1V2FMSCjI4xpSJXkwb5aXetKr2CECM9BVKnNq-0jrYy8Ck/s1600/Bokeh-Bubbles-20100911.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Create Bokeh Effect using Photoshop" border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEc1I2P4MLLA1DPTPAbXcxsuW-N8QtxitdBdJdU46tQX1dn66RH97lKAkzO9Jinia5ACtwm27zDcFgKe5ItQ4ya4lT6vrwm1V2FMSCjI4xpSJXkwb5aXetKr2CECM9BVKnNq-0jrYy8Ck/s200/Bokeh-Bubbles-20100911.jpg" width="199" /></a></div><br />
<b>Bokeh </b>is an adaptation from a a Japanese word that mean blur. In photography this term is used to describe the quality of the areas in the picture which are not in focus.<br />
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When referring to Bokeh, we can distinguish some of it characteristics:<br />
- Is the light/dark gradient smooth or sharp?<br />
- What shape will a small dot of light take what it is in the Bokeh area? (mirror lenses for example, create a bagel like Bokeh).<br />
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We can play with those two variants to create a special Bokeh.<br />
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Ok, thats <b>digital bokeh effect using camera</b>, this time we are going to <b><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/02/create-bokeh-effect-using-photoshop.html">create bokeh effect using photoshop</a></b>, and the main tool is brushes<br />
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<b>Step 1</b><br />
Create a new document in Photoshop. As usual I will use a nice scree resolution, <b>1920x1200 pixels</b>. Fill the background layer with a very dark grey, not black. If you fill it with black the effect won't work. The color I used was <b>#<span style="color: black;">262626.</span></b> <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoyAoJtQl8uWesMDNlcyr1Lj4jMZGce7mLmBXE50Tz6QD_taek_ds8MqoNXHVrx8ODM01bX0pVcd_qiQsSVdDax5_MC4dRE00CDLYg4aK6-it2Ui2zPklupf_IOaRh_qDMGHPk9CDw9SM/s1600/Step_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Create Bokeh Effect using Photoshop" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoyAoJtQl8uWesMDNlcyr1Lj4jMZGce7mLmBXE50Tz6QD_taek_ds8MqoNXHVrx8ODM01bX0pVcd_qiQsSVdDax5_MC4dRE00CDLYg4aK6-it2Ui2zPklupf_IOaRh_qDMGHPk9CDw9SM/s1600/Step_1.jpg" /></a></div><b>Step 2</b><br />
Select the <b>Ellipse Tool (U)</b>, and create a circle. Use black for the color, and go to <b>Layer>Layer Style>Blending Options</b>. Change the <b>Fill Opacity to 50%.</b> After that select <b>Stroke</b>. Use <b>10 pixels for the size, Inside for the Position and Black for the color.</b><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge0Fn7TL0nYSmQ4UxCTGKOrCyMiwf8uo-Sw-c-uzrV5VTte7OXHx7bhKOJst9g47iFI5XK6wRe3VUcdZaxHGMhI_fRqICdsK0XB2zNRIJITFoEwfDTNhq9s2NxVI1Xw0RrbG0GoCbJBUA/s1600/Step_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Create Bokeh Effect using Photoshop" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge0Fn7TL0nYSmQ4UxCTGKOrCyMiwf8uo-Sw-c-uzrV5VTte7OXHx7bhKOJst9g47iFI5XK6wRe3VUcdZaxHGMhI_fRqICdsK0XB2zNRIJITFoEwfDTNhq9s2NxVI1Xw0RrbG0GoCbJBUA/s1600/Step_2.jpg" /></a></div><b>Step 3</b><br />
Select the ellipse and go to<b> Edit>Define Brush.</b> Name your brush and that's done. Now we have a new brush ;)<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm8nnPJvOUNG_ZzwX6LnTjX5PxYoKAGLzDjiMTsC4sZXhoCxgbTE2aAkYbtH8EICckuxg9fBWKu8vUWhN88Tu9O2sI3bcKbv6ekI3W0Q1gQPYn-O4-1f4dXISXs-t8kVgbueQrp1t6Lac/s1600/Step_3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Create Bokeh Effect using Photoshop" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm8nnPJvOUNG_ZzwX6LnTjX5PxYoKAGLzDjiMTsC4sZXhoCxgbTE2aAkYbtH8EICckuxg9fBWKu8vUWhN88Tu9O2sI3bcKbv6ekI3W0Q1gQPYn-O4-1f4dXISXs-t8kVgbueQrp1t6Lac/s1600/Step_3.jpg" /></a></div><b>Step 4</b><br />
Go to <b>Window>Brushes (F5). </b>The first thing to do in the <b>Brush Engine</b> is to select our new Brush. The size won't matter because you will change that when you use it. The <b>Spacing</b>, however, is very important. Chage the value to <b>100%</b>. After that, select the <b>Shape Dynamics, then Scattering and Other dynamics</b>. For the values use the image below.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_6OnprJgdsRE5ZIaWZB0WiXeTIpv1zBH1TNgwdnkrjLFU8kB2zPS1hlhLGNp4V-X0lQgd-rSPlMxb77vATF8-ZqvUnABEYnU3rZwbhCkNqeXIjb_AU_Z5Lc0-kI4pAYCRWf83IduiGI4/s1600/Step_4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Create Bokeh Effect using Photoshop" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_6OnprJgdsRE5ZIaWZB0WiXeTIpv1zBH1TNgwdnkrjLFU8kB2zPS1hlhLGNp4V-X0lQgd-rSPlMxb77vATF8-ZqvUnABEYnU3rZwbhCkNqeXIjb_AU_Z5Lc0-kI4pAYCRWf83IduiGI4/s1600/Step_4.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<b>Step 5 </b><br />
Before we start painting our bokehs let's create a new layer and fill it with a colorful gradient. I created a new layer and used the layer styles to do that but feel free to do the way you are used to. My gradient settings are as follows: <b>Blend Mode is Overlay,</b> <b>Opacity is 100%, Style is Linear, and the Angle is 45º</b>. The colors I used are: <b>Yellow (#00085), Cyan (#1bdaeb), Purple (#9b3b81), Orange (#d27e34).</b><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGaCdEz_H1Rastp3AY-KokYt1bNFc1N30WOF5GHOOH18nslrJyI07w2nYh8vLJ-MaS8ey5iN1d92rj84OaGYNn3w5v7fRxSXzbqnW4rwQRDj4lzGksJxeKoqRKw0GmO3e7wRlx-agDz0A/s1600/Step_5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Create Bokeh Effect using Photoshop" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGaCdEz_H1Rastp3AY-KokYt1bNFc1N30WOF5GHOOH18nslrJyI07w2nYh8vLJ-MaS8ey5iN1d92rj84OaGYNn3w5v7fRxSXzbqnW4rwQRDj4lzGksJxeKoqRKw0GmO3e7wRlx-agDz0A/s1600/Step_5.jpg" /></a></div><b>Step 6</b><br />
Let's create a new <b>Folder</b> in our Layer Palette. Rename the folder to Bokehs and change the <b>Blend Mode to Color Dodge.</b> Then create a new layer, choose white for the color and select the <b>Brush Tool (B).</b> Now just paint some ellipses with our custom brush. For this first layer use a big size, like 500-600px.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0wiVNCyDrMIPYIp0e4FMWPF1Gz40qIzWF-HsHzWusc3lmTbBGLPTkrXvCyPSaj4i3EJqAYKXPIRicjMZih1FjjXVFnIUJZC_-dSRdSDxeRnGA1OkonW5MPbxl8n5ZnDmCyTcc9cvJBuE/s1600/Step_6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Create Bokeh Effect using Photoshop" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0wiVNCyDrMIPYIp0e4FMWPF1Gz40qIzWF-HsHzWusc3lmTbBGLPTkrXvCyPSaj4i3EJqAYKXPIRicjMZih1FjjXVFnIUJZC_-dSRdSDxeRnGA1OkonW5MPbxl8n5ZnDmCyTcc9cvJBuE/s1600/Step_6.jpg" /></a></div><b>Step 7</b><br />
Go to <b>Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur.</b> For this first layer use <b>20 pixels for the Radius.</b><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiSipm5aMuI3_7xkm03dQWLa2TIbAqs6jEgREgMGPbvLHZzKOrsqgLUFtJv0OrrtF3u0u-Qq5E_hqiYJ6fvJn1JLu-WgyL7D6kiJ9K3rxmeL7tLmSOKBvslSEV6VQd8sb3KVqV_Oi5GEc/s1600/Step_7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Create Bokeh Effect using Photoshop" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiSipm5aMuI3_7xkm03dQWLa2TIbAqs6jEgREgMGPbvLHZzKOrsqgLUFtJv0OrrtF3u0u-Qq5E_hqiYJ6fvJn1JLu-WgyL7D6kiJ9K3rxmeL7tLmSOKBvslSEV6VQd8sb3KVqV_Oi5GEc/s1600/Step_7.jpg" /></a></div><b>Step 8</b><br />
Create another layer and paint more brushes. This time however use a smaller size for the brush. After that go to <b>Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur.</b> Use <b>4 pixels for the Radius.</b><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-VwLf7YOmHb243AqOLgwRlZ5UmLZkOzvVdIrOxBo9Ab_lQVM0U9dKG4H586FdMABIVhPuLTgj6KzAfAyOM3vG3dfNLqbczMuWDgApAkFCn2Vo4TwR7GVjGFOM2SlW9Lrs0xR15KFR2l0/s1600/Step_8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Create Bokeh Effect using Photoshop" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-VwLf7YOmHb243AqOLgwRlZ5UmLZkOzvVdIrOxBo9Ab_lQVM0U9dKG4H586FdMABIVhPuLTgj6KzAfAyOM3vG3dfNLqbczMuWDgApAkFCn2Vo4TwR7GVjGFOM2SlW9Lrs0xR15KFR2l0/s1600/Step_8.jpg" /></a></div><b>Step 9</b><br />
Create another layer and repeat the previous step, this time however use a much smaller brush. Apply the<b> Gaussian Blur</b> to this layer as well, but use only <b>1 pixel for the Radius. </b><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic_yGLjFw7oMiAtkJHsVXImMgjPz7mrSEQYtpmIlE0v5qZGp4OQSW8Pg7NWJoZOOJs3CT1jjaFdeP4SQUWml1at7wZa7yJRRWMfEOv24GyfUyEuEY2y2K5uc06HMgKTtBQBV1NLkdYvKU/s1600/Step_9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Create Bokeh Effect using Photoshop" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic_yGLjFw7oMiAtkJHsVXImMgjPz7mrSEQYtpmIlE0v5qZGp4OQSW8Pg7NWJoZOOJs3CT1jjaFdeP4SQUWml1at7wZa7yJRRWMfEOv24GyfUyEuEY2y2K5uc06HMgKTtBQBV1NLkdYvKU/s1600/Step_9.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<b>Conclusion</b><br />
Now just add your logo and that's it. We have a nice wallpaper. The idea of this tutorial was once again to show the power of the Brush Engine. You can try different shapes for this same effect, like hexagons for example. Also you can play a bit with the blurs to add more depth to the final design. Now it's up to you.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxwpBcvFQN_qeLZtTVIPwzRlQmP9ehxZJUf_Q7BUw9rxH_Kf8qg-lHEUKDsQ9_qMfeNkdKDzbtF6OZWHH78k4vcM1lc9rW-8A39SaZ3L4HlpsHUf8t1WzhMQ2MmfjjFo5muT95rfgMYLM/s1600/Conclusion.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Create Bokeh Effect using Photoshop" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxwpBcvFQN_qeLZtTVIPwzRlQmP9ehxZJUf_Q7BUw9rxH_Kf8qg-lHEUKDsQ9_qMfeNkdKDzbtF6OZWHH78k4vcM1lc9rW-8A39SaZ3L4HlpsHUf8t1WzhMQ2MmfjjFo5muT95rfgMYLM/s1600/Conclusion.jpg" /></a></div>Related Articles : <br />
<ul><li><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/06/bokeh-effect-in-child-portraits.html">Bokeh effect in child Portraits</a> </li>
<li><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/11/obtain-camera-for-maximum-bokeh.html">Obtain Camera for Maximum Bokeh</a> </li>
<li><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/12/perfecting-blur-photos-with-bokeh.html">Perfecting Blur Photos With Bokeh</a></li>
</ul><h1 class="post-title entry-title"></h1><br />
Source Article from <a href="http://abduzeedo.com/" rel="nofollow">http://abduzeedo.com/</a>Sugeng Ariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04530677626306210126noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1452076430190225984.post-11970781836720537532012-02-08T06:23:00.000-08:002012-02-08T08:24:20.544-08:00Corel’s AfterShot Pro<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1M86-Nb4MkIjoURlYIr5VhLg4c1lqtHjIAfOIFeaMZOAqtY-5UqibwlphtEFcUapGysiyQn5m7tiIl8rSi3LqIbY-cMDLPXOpapXE-dBaIA6pXelYp6xBLtl2WhX4UIL_IsIi3Ed3aeg/s1600/ASP1EN_2D-Jpeg-209x300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Corel’s AfterShot Pro" border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1M86-Nb4MkIjoURlYIr5VhLg4c1lqtHjIAfOIFeaMZOAqtY-5UqibwlphtEFcUapGysiyQn5m7tiIl8rSi3LqIbY-cMDLPXOpapXE-dBaIA6pXelYp6xBLtl2WhX4UIL_IsIi3Ed3aeg/s200/ASP1EN_2D-Jpeg-209x300.jpg" width="198" /></a></div><!-- google_ad_section_start --><br />
Say hello to <b>Corel’s</b> newly released “<b>AfterShot Pro</b>”. <b>Corel’s AfterShot Pro</b> is Corel’s response to Adobe Lightroom with a greatly reduced price tag.<br />
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The <i>Corel’s AfterShot Pro</i> package was just recently announced at CES (Consumer Electronics Show) in Las Vegas and is sporting a suggested retail price of $100. So far all the reviews I have read are very positive. You can read more about <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/02/corels-aftershot-pro.html"><b>Corel’s AfterShot Pro</b></a> by visiting Corel’s website at <a href="http://www.corel.com/corel/product/index.jsp?pid=prod4670071" target="_blank">this link</a>. There is also a 30 day free trial available so you can give it a test drive before you buy. Do you want to see Corel’s AfterShot Pro in action? You can! Corel is offering a free introductory webinar on January 25, 2012 from 8PM to 9 PM US Eastern time. You can register by <a href="https://www1.gotomeeting.com/register/970413440" target="_blank">clicking here</a>.<br />
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I used <i>Paint Shop Pro</i> for years before moving to <b>Photoshop</b> and then eventually <b>Lightroom by Adobe</b>. After learning how to use Lightroom and Photoshop for my purposes via some free tutorials, various NAPP videos, and a subscription to the Kelby Training site, I found that I probably could have done most if not all the same editing using Corel’s Paint Shop Pro Photo. Dont get me wrong. I’m not bashing Adobe at all. Photoshop and Lightroom are wonderful software packages and I’m currently hooked. I don’t see me dumping them anytime soon.<br />
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But, even the biggest Adobe fan has to admit that Photoshop and Lightroom are pretty pricey for the average budget. Although I know you can get it discounted, Adobe sells Photoshop for $700 USD. Lightroom will set you back about $300 USD. That’s a pretty high price tag for the average person in today’s economy. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdoEmS9HG_hkV2cJbAJZiPjeIyLgGRxXSCgR5NSiqmhbyR1IMysEjWytw6nVA2pwJytMCL28HPRxMkwDxuKQTdqIInT7AtaMJ0iMYQahfiA64fwxCeGmXwRjyBke0PaA9g2o02g4-hGB4/s1600/aftershot-2-267714.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Corel’s AfterShot Pro" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdoEmS9HG_hkV2cJbAJZiPjeIyLgGRxXSCgR5NSiqmhbyR1IMysEjWytw6nVA2pwJytMCL28HPRxMkwDxuKQTdqIInT7AtaMJ0iMYQahfiA64fwxCeGmXwRjyBke0PaA9g2o02g4-hGB4/s1600/aftershot-2-267714.jpg" /></a></div><br />
So you want an even bigger perk? How about half price? I’m on the Corel emailing list so they just dropped a link with coupon in my inbox. If you click<a href="http://www.corel.com/corel/product/index.jsp?&pid=prod4670071&segid=6400047&promo=4696&dcs_action=applyCoupon&url_coupon=4696&regionId=3&ym_mid=1390652&ym_rid=82680758" target="_blank"> this link</a> you can get <b>Corel’s AfterShot Pro</b> for a mere $50 USD. I don’t know how long this coupon will be active so good luck!<br />
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Source Article <a href="http://cameralightlens.com" rel="nofollow">http://cameralightlens.com</a>Sugeng Ariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04530677626306210126noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1452076430190225984.post-49384836923463377652012-02-04T12:23:00.000-08:002012-02-08T08:24:54.615-08:00Portraiture in Fashion Photography, Tutorial from Bruce Smith<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB9DUMGcgC_0oAtZplvzr2PrsvjAihlkg0nkThIwo6WhhjDBgRrq7ppDnryjJ-HJd151O5DvXInGuPqjsn8ls9to32qF-dZtVoN3F_TxHRQBnafLOs_4-U275ZOtpXqD6CtgHzuuhkf70/s1600/bsmitha1.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Portraiture in Fashion Photography, Tutorial from Bruce Smith" border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB9DUMGcgC_0oAtZplvzr2PrsvjAihlkg0nkThIwo6WhhjDBgRrq7ppDnryjJ-HJd151O5DvXInGuPqjsn8ls9to32qF-dZtVoN3F_TxHRQBnafLOs_4-U275ZOtpXqD6CtgHzuuhkf70/s200/bsmitha1.gif" width="200" /></a></div><br />
Like many <b>successful photographers</b>, <b>Bruce Smith</b> achieved his first huge break in <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2012/02/portraiture-in-fashion-photography.html"><b>fashion photography</b></a> by setting up a test shoot with a model.<br />
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Bruce will show you the way how he arranges his fashion lighting methods of high and low key lighting, and also how to get the most effective shots when operating with studio strobe/flash or location strobe/flash or reflectors and diffusion screens and additionally the varied modifiers that he makes use of to get his <b>wonderful fashion images</b>.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/VxAZFUfsyLM?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br />
Just what this <b>Fashion Photography Training course</b> covers :<br />
<ul><li>The Studio</li>
<li>Studio Lights techniques for normal studio</li>
<li>Preparing to take pictures</li>
<li>Guiding your models</li>
<li>Discover ways to generate a flow of positive energy in your very own photos</li>
<li>You will additionally learn to compose your own images</li>
<li>Work your photos to match layouts and pages of magazines</li>
<li>Discover ways to handle your digital work-flows</li>
<li>Clear up the secrets around color balance</li>
<li>Management of your graphic files</li>
<li>Discover ways to make the most out of studio lights</li>
<li>Find out how to make use of your meter to help manage image contrast and exposure</li>
<li>Obtain the solutions to all of those concerns you can never find the answers to</li>
<li>Have a lot of fun and go back home with a few wonderful photos for your own stock portfolio or internet site</li>
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Fashion Stylist Our stylist is just one of the essential elements of the successful team that will be making the exciting fashion ‘looks’ during the MasterClass. This essential role will add that powerful ingredient to ensure that the images taken are unique to the school. Bruce uses their vast expertise to ensure the correct stylist fits into his team to assure the best results.<br />
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Make Up Artist / Hair Stylist Make Up and Hairdressing could possibly be referred to as the ‘icing on the cake’. The technical and imaginative abilities of the H&MUA are fundamental in order to the success of any kind of fashion shoot. Bruce decides his H&MUA for their creativity and remarkable ability to give wonderful looks rapidly on the day.<br />
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The team has been assembled to help you get the most from the week and are saved to hand to resolve questions and advise on aspects of planning and shooting trend. This means that there are many opportunities to take advantage of their insights and knowledge all through the week. This discussion will only enhance the benefit which you obtain using this Master Class.<br />
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Models We can not create fabulous fashion images with out fabulous trend models. Bruce only picks models that are regular professionals along with suiting the certain looks which are created throughout his fashion photography grasp classes.<br />
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You are able to choose to take 3, 4 or perhaps 5 days of this studio fashion photography program. See booking and special discounts page back links bellow, for dates, discounts and locations for these programs.<br />
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Booking A Studio <b>Fashion Photography Course</b>:<br />
Accommodation Should you require lodging during these courses, some of us will be staying in an motel called The Windmill Hotel, Cricklewood, the quite near to the studio, you will need to purchase this immediately and make your own reservations.<br />
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Traveling and transfers For almost any of these courses you will need to organize your own travel arrangements, flights , when coming from abroad, transfers to and from the accommodation to be able to the location of the studio. Closest station in order to Adrian Pini Studios is actually Brent Cross, there is a pick up services at around 8.30am and returning to the train station at approx 5.30pm.<br />
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To get the best out of virtually any of these photography program, we counsel you to take any portfolio modifying and Photoshop for fashion retouching course used the day after each and every of the 3 and 4 day classes, its integrated as a part of the 5 day classes.<br />
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Did you like these <b>fashion photography tips</b>? Interested in <a href="http://learndigitalphotographynow.com/fashion-photography-course-how-to-become-a-fashion-photographer" target="_blank">Fashion Photography Courses</a>? Well now you can by Discovering this <a href="http://www.brucesmithphotographer.com/Bruce_Smith_Photographer_Academy/You_Will_Learn.html" target="_blank">Fashion Photography Course</a>…what are you waiting for?<br />
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Related Articles :<br />
<ul><li> <a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/05/photography-studio-lighting-techniques.html">Photography studio lighting techniques , Video series</a> </li>
<li><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/06/photography-tips-for-fashion.html">8 Tips for Fashion Photography</a> </li>
<li><a href="http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/06/quality-portfolio-for-hire-professional.html">Quality Portfolio for Hire A Professional Model</a></li>
</ul>Sugeng Ariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04530677626306210126noreply@blogger.com