Orchids How To

Ceratostylis rubra (or retisquama), new leaf and keiki.

2015-11-11T18:45:00.001+01:00

This little wonderful orchid comes from the international exhibition of orchids in Esslingen I visited last September. It was my first purchase from Orchideen Lucke together with a young phalaenopsis lueddemanniana.
What caught my attention was the flower color, it´s orange with golden reflexes, glittering!
I read some information on the net about Ceratostylis rubra and I also asked the seller to be sure. Temperature and humidity in my mini orchidarium seem to be good for this plant, so here it is!

Ceratostylis rubra, orchid species,
potted in sphagnum moss, in the mini orchid tank
(picture of 5 April 2013)


Ceratostylis rubra, orchid species, detail of new sprout and bud (picture of 27 November 2012)		Ceratostylis rubra, orchid species, detail of new sprout and bud (picture of 27 November 2012)

This orchid does not like to stay with too dry roots, so I try to water it as soon as the sphagnum in the pot becomes hard, a sign that the humidity inside is low. I usually use a sprayer filled with water by Reverse Osmosis and only every 10-15 days I add a mild dose of fertilizer (about one-tenth of the dose recommended on the label).

Ceratostylis rubra, orchid species, detail of new sprout

(picture of 27 November 2012)

Along with the new leaf is also growing a bud for the next flowering, do not know yet if it will flower or not, but I hope so! Meanwhile, the growth did not stop and another leaf and a new bud are starting to come out.
The basal keiki is in a good health and is growing rather quickly but has not reached the flowering size yet, it hasn´t the typical coverage "retisquama" and has not yet developed buds.
This orchid is giving me a lot of satisfaction, I hope to post soon some pictures of flowers !!!

Ceratostylis rubra, orchid species,
potted in sphagnum moss, in the mini orchid tank
(picture of 7 May 2013)

Dendrobium phalaenopsis white flowers

2014-04-28T14:42:00.005+02:00

Dendrobium phalaenopsis, orchid hybrid with white flowers

This Dendrobium come from Ikea, it is with me for about a year and the new pseudobulb grew well and flourished even though at the beginning the roots were not very healty, now there are new ones, grew up together with the pseudobulb and the plant looks healthy.

Flowers have lasted very long, in fact, have begun to open in mid-December and remained so until the end of January.

Dendrobium phalaenopsis, orchid hybrid whole plant in bloom

How to repot a Cattleya orchid in bark and sphagnum-moss

2014-03-03T11:15:00.002+01:00

The basic steps of my repotting of a Cattleya orchid in bark and sphagnum moss:

rinse bark under hot running water;

soak it in osmosis water (or distilled or rain water) at least for one hour;
let drain off;
place a first compound layer in the pot;
place the plant;
fill the pot without pressing, leaving at least one visible root;
free the holes at the bottom of the pot;
cover the exposed roots with some wet sphagnum;
water soak(or shower from above) when is dry;
fertilize at normal dose but only during active growing.

Cattleya orchid, repotting
in bark and sphagnum compound

The Cattleya plants are epiphytes in nature, as well as the Phalaenopsis, they grow suspended, stuck in the branches of trees with their strong and spongy roots ready to absorb every drop of rain water that flows through and dry out quickly on the light breeze of tropical forests . You can not play these exact conditions in a flat, so that every enthusiast is looking for a practical solution as much as possible good to growth, and maybe the blooming of these fascinating orchids. To convince a Cattleya that the best place to stretch its roots is the vessel that we provide we must try to make it airy but moist, never soggy or compact!

Medium bark and sphagnum compound in osmosis water

Medium bark and sphagnum compound
first layer on the bottom of the pot

For Cattleyas medium or large sized a substrate of bark in not too small pieces and moss is a good choice, because the bark does not absorb a lot of water instead sphagnum is like a sponge, it soaks for maintaining good high humidity for a long time.

The percentage of sphagnum mixture should be slightly different depending on the needs of the plant and also the conditions of cultivation: in every house there may be lower or higher temperatures and more or less dry air, etc.. Each orchid roots prefer to be more or less dry before being watered again and every grower has his times and his ways to water, in general, we can begin with a mixture of about 80% bark and 20% sphagnum moss and then we will adjust accordingly the drying time and the reactions of the plant.
After all of that let's go to repot!

I use a mixture of bark and sphagnum moss ready for sale in orchids specialized nurseriesbut you can buy bark and sphagnum separately, at exhibitions and trade fairs in orchids or more rarely in normal nurseries, and prepare the mix by yourself.

Repotting Cattleya orchid in bark and sphagnum moss,
placement of the plant

Usually the compounds or the bark that we buy are dirty, dust and various other things that are inside could damage the roots of orchids so the first thing to do is wash the bark under warm running water, perhaps with the 'help of a strainer so as not to take away the small pieces of moss.

Since the new bark does not absorb water at all, you need to soak it for at least an hour to moisten it well, since the tap water is often too full of limestone or other elements that can cause serious damages to the orchid roots is better to use RO water (or distilled or rain water).

You place a first layer of mixture on the bottom of the vase and then you place the plant.
The rhizome (the part that joins the pseudobulbs between them) should not be covered by the substrate but placed above.
The Cattleya tend to grow upward then the oldest part of the plant will be almost certainly under the bark, that's okay.

Repotting Cattleya orchid in bark and sphagnum moss,
one root visible through the pot

Is better to try to position the new bulbs facing the center of the vase and the old ones close to the edge to allow more space for the new vegetation. It 'also very useful to keep at least one visible root through the pot to get an idea of the situation inside.

Keeping the plant in place you add the mixture of bark and sphagnum moss to fill the vase.
You should never press the bark but only flick the pot to settle the mixture inside.

Once you have filled the jar is essential to free the holes at the bottom with a stick, I do rotate slightly until check up, so I can be sure that there is enough air moving and that water from the watering is able to go out freely don't stay long touching the roots risking to make them rot!

Repotting Cattleya orchid in bark,
free the holes on thebottom of the pot

Repotting is almost finished, just need to check if there are roots that remain outside the substrate because if they stay exposed to the dry air of the house will not have much chance of surviving, I cover them with a bit of wet sphagnum moss.


Repotting Cattleya orchid in bark and sphagnum moss cover the exposed roots with some wet sphagnum

Cattleya orchida love to have the roots dry before receiving more water, but should not become too dry, it is very important to learn to understand the signals that plants give us to avoid stressing them by wrong watering, the only way to learn is to practice !
Good repotting!

Blooming of my Odontoglossum hybrid (Cambria)

2014-02-24T14:34:00.000+01:00

Odontoglossum hybrid (Cambria) from IKEA, in bloom
after one year growing in pot with bark e sphagnum,
flower detail
(picture of 29 September 2012)

I bought this orchid for the beauty of the flower and the shape of the plant in general, but without having clear in mind her needs. The directions on the label were scarce, as for all plants of the Swedish multinational, the only certainty I had was on genetics, in fact, the commercial hybrids are usually like tanks, if they manage to survive into the store to get them stone dead there wants an atomic disaster! ;-)
This Cambria confirmed it for me.

Odontoglossum hybrid (Cambria) from IKEA, in bloom
after one year growing in pot with bark e sphagnum
(picture of 29 September 2012)

Phalaenopsis (kingidium) chibae, repotting to be fixed

2014-02-17T19:11:00.000+01:00

Phalaenopsis (ex kingidium) chibae, orchid botanical species,
growing in pot into the mini orchidarium 2
(picture of 14 December 2012)

This lovely Phalaenopsis chibae came from an auction on ebay at the end of August, the photos that were on the ad showed a fair amount of healthy roots outside the substrate so it tempted me so much...

Phalaenopsis (ex kingidium) chibae,
orchid botanical species,
just bought on Ebay
(photo of 4 September 2012)

Phalaenopsis (ex kingidium) chibae,
orchid botanical species,
out of pot, roots at delivery time,
fungal disease, probably Phytophthora
(photo of 4 September 2012)

Once she got home I could check the pot, bark was very deteriorated and compact, the poor Phal did not seem happy, so I pulled it out.

What I found inside the jar was yet another disaster!

The roots were all seriously affected by a fungal disease (Phytophthora suspicion or Pytium) and rotting even though the compound was completely dry.

I immediately cut all the roots that did not convince me using scissors sterilized with the lighter then I put the orchid in soaking for 2 hours in water and systemic fungicides (Azoxystrobin 23.2%, dose 1ml per liter of water + fosetyl-Al 746g/kg dose 5mg per liter of water, this mixture with these doses was recommended to me by one of the owners of the nursery specializing in orchids Orchids & More, they use it in the greenhouses).

After the bath I put it upside down to dry overnight, you should leave the plant upside down to prevent water stagnation in the leaf axils becouse they can cause rot, in addition to that the dry house-air on the roots facilitates drying of any breakages and cuts.

Sono sempre le radici che scelgono il vaso...
The remaining roots of my Phal chibae were too few for the original pot so I chose a smaller one, 8 cm round, but the roots were not too agree with me! ;-)
Didn't wont to get into it neatly!

Phalaenopsis (ex kingidium) chibae,
orchid botanical species,
first repotting,
some roots are out of the substrate

In the end, I absolutely didn't want to risk of breaking any of the survived roots, so I did a temporary repotting.
The plant has remained crooked and with quite a bit of roots out of the bark but I have not broken any and orchid has found a nice little warm place in the mini orchid nursery 2.

Phalaenopsis (ex kingidium) chibae,
orchid botanical species,
out of pot again, growing roots
(photo of 6 December 2012)

Now it's been two months since this new Phalaenopsis chibae has been added to my collection and for me it was a source of great satisfaction!

He decided he did not like the old leaves more so has dried out them to grow a new leaf that was just a beginning on his arrival.
Even the roots have shown signs of recovery in growth and I could no longer endure the precarious position of that orchid in the pot, so I pulled it out again.
I took the opportunity to check the status of the roots and I'm very happy, they look good and continue to have the green tips, sign that growth continues!

I chose to repot into a compound similar to the one it had, to avoid too much stress on it , so I prepared the mix of bark and moss and I adjusted well all the roots in the jar, and finally the plant does not seem to fall at any time.

Phalaenopsis (ex kingidium) chibae,
orchid botanical species,
repotting in bark and sphagnum moos
(photo of 6 December 2012)

A new Cattleya at beginning of flowering, repotted.

2014-02-06T09:46:00.001+01:00

A dear friend, orchid lover, came to visit us a few days ago, I could not avoid to take her for a ride in the greenhouses of my fauvorite orchid seller: Orchids & More! We spent a very pleasant couple of hours wandering around, surrounded by the surreal atmosphere created by thousands of orchids of all shapes and sizes.
Was great fun and relaxing to try the heady scents of dozens of different Cattleya in bloom!

Cattleya hybrid biginning flowering
var. Sophro Cattleya Chian-tzy Angieko 4 seasons
(pictur of 27 November 2012)

I chose this Cattleya thanks to my friend who got one but with already opened flowers, the deep purple color and the citrus scent convinced me, so I looked for one for me too ...

Cattleya hybrid out of the pot,
state of roots, fungal disease
rot rot caused by fungus (Phytophthora?)
var. Sophro Cattleya
Chian-tzy Angiekoh 4 seasons
(pictur of 27 November 2012)

The premises were good, there were many pseudobulbs in the pot and the biggest carrying two nearly ripe buds and the root out of the substrate with its beautiful green tip was clearly in active growth. The plant was cultivated in a black vase so I could not see the situation of the roots inside but since the older pseudobulbs showed signs of dehydration, the youngest began to show a few wrinkles and the vessel was light I decided to water it the next morning . I put it in osmosis water for about two hours, usually dehydrated plants with a good root system show signs of recovery the second day after a long soaking, this Cattleya instead had no change, this fact, together with the loss of older leaf on some pseudobulbs, alarmed me. I decided to take her out of the pot.
I was right!
I found a tangle of rotten roots!

Cattleya hybrid out of the pot, state of roots

after 24 hours kept dry
var. Sophro Cattleya Chian-tzy Angieko 4 seasons
(pictur of 28 November 2012)

I cutted and cleaned a lot before I was satisfied, fortunately some roots remained alive, and the plants in the pots were two!
After cleaning I washed them with osmosis water and I let them dry upside down until the next day. The larger plant with buds had taken over and the poor little girl could not grow so I repotted separately: the largest in a mixed of bark and sphagnum moss and the little one in pure sphagnum moss.

Psygmorchis pusilla, finally a blooming in my mini orchidarium

2013-09-24T13:03:00.000+02:00

Psygmorchis pusilla, miniature orchid, botanical species in bloom,
mounted on cork in the mini orchid tank
(picture of 24 October 2012)

The Psygmorchis pusilla is one of my favorite orchid miniatures, the size of the plant is really very small, while the flowers, in comparison, are giants. Even the flowers color, yellow with red-brick spots and white labellum, is really cheerful and sunny, and makes a nice contrast with the green moss that grows on the mount.

Psygmorchis pusilla,
miniature orchid newly purchased
cultivation of cork slab
(picture of 17 May 2012)

I grow it in the mini orchidarium with pretty high light, at 10 - 12 centimiters from one of the lamps (Energy-saving lamp to grow orchids, self-made), the relative humidity is quite variable but the values are maintained between a minimum of 60% and a maximum of 85%, this summer the temperature ranged from a maximum of 30 ° C to a minimum of 26 ° C, now winter is coming so maximum up to 24 ° C while the minimum is around 20 ° C.
To water the Psygmorchis pusilla, and also all the other mounted orchids, I usually spray water from Reverse Osmosis every two days (in summer once or twice a day) and about once a week I put in a bath for a couple of hours with a small dose of fertilizer (NPK 20-20-20 with trace elements, dose 1/4 of a gram per liter of water). Since the bud began to grow I have been careful not to wet it and if I did it than always dried with a piece of paper.

It seems that everything is starting to work well, after losing the first bud that come out last June, at the second attempt finally we did it!

Psygmorchis pusilla,
miniature orchid growing a new bud
(picture of 24 September 2012)

I searched the web for information abaout how to care this tiny orchid but unfortunately there's not much, it seems to like to grow in a warm to temperate greenhouse with moderate to bright light, good ventilation and high humidity environment and prefers to grow monunted on a slab rather than in pot, being an epiphytic orchid in nature.
One piece of information that I could find in several forums, and I did not like at all, is that the total life cycle of Psygmorchis pusilla is very short, around 5-7 years at most.
We'll see!
The flowering period is not clear, according to some should flourish in spring and summer, from other sources instead flowering would be more likely between autumn and spring. I think that in cultivation may flourish throughout the year, in fact my Psigmorchis started last spring and after losing the first flower it is already growing a new one!

Psygmorchis pusilla,
miniature orchid, opening blossom
(picture of 22 October 2012)

Links to information sheets about orchids species Psygmorchis pusilla:

Go to sheets on IOSPE:
Psygmorchis pusilla - sheet on IOSPE

Three new Phalaenopsis to recover

2013-08-01T11:51:00.003+02:00

Phalaenopsis orchids, hybrids severely dehydrated,
(pictur of 27 October 2012)

Saturday is the day to do all the committees that during the week you are unable to complete due to lack of time. Since I was looking for a power cable to connect the fan of another mini orchid nursery that I was setting up, I went to look for it in a large DIY store. The gardening department of this store is well stocked, especially of Phalaenopsis!

There are the classics warehouse shelves full of commercial hybrids at low cost but also many other Phal hybrids, a little more details, built up in compositions with various adornment to match the flower's colours. When an orchid stays in the store for too long will ruin, the causes are varied but mostly the waterings that, if and when done, are never at the right time for each plant and mainly from very hard water.

The result is that the plants lose the bloom, dry out and, if they remain too long in those conditions, they also have serious damage, sometimes not curable, to the roots. But when they begin to lose the flowering Phalaenopsis commercial value decreases sharply and can be bought at bargain prices! The three orchids that I wanted to take this time costed me around seven euros!

Phalaenopsis noid 1, dark purple flowers
(pictur of 27 October 2012)

The Phalaenopsis 1 is the less damaged, has a half-growth leaf and also the other leaves are not too dehydrated, between the roots I saw one with the green tip so maybe growing. I immediately put the pot to soak in pure osmosis water for about three hours and roots quickly changed color and texture, taking a good consistence and a nice bright green!

Phalaenopsis noid 2, white flowers with light pink shade
and brick-colored dots in the center
(pictur of 27 October 2012)

The Phalaenopsis 2 was a bit more dehydrated but has an highest number of leaves, she also had a nice dive of three hours in osmosi water and roots behaved very well! They too have taken good color and texture.

Phalaenopsis noid 3, white flowers with purple spots
(pictur of 27 October 2012)

The Phalaenopsis 3 was the most ruined, extremely dehydrated leaves including the youngest that has not yet completed the growth. The roots did not look reassuring, all seemed dry, however after putting soak the pot, always in osmosis water, some showed signs of life, becoming beautiful green and a little more turgid!
The very next morning the leaves were more hydrated and less droopy! Miracles of a proper watering!
After one week the phal 1 started to grow two restarts from the cutted stem and also a second flower stalk! Only time will tell me how will end up ...

Orchids show Esslingen, 21 September 2012

2013-01-13T13:17:00.001+01:00

Cattleya orchid, hybrid, dark red flower detail
(picture of 21 September 2012, Esslingen)

I waited a long time this event, international exhibitions are good to spend a beautiful day in the middle of a sea of blooming orchids! I visited the site of the international exhibition of orchids Esslingen 2011 edition and there were many photos that I was really impressed, especially those relating to exhibitions, spectacular flower beds with trees and streams, all covered with ferns, mosses and hundreds of orchids in flower, I couldn't miss it! This was my first visit to the exhibition of Esslingen and was nice even though I expected that the fair was much larger, the exhibitors were provided but not as hoped and the prices were inflated almost all of which unfortunately is often the case here in events of strong appeal. Unfortunately many of the pictures I took did not turn out well because of the low light and of my camera, a bit dated, anyway there's still something ...

Cattleya orchids flowering
group mounted in the exhibition area
(picture of 21 September 2012, Esslingen)


Dendrobium cuthbertsonii orchids species group, orange flowers	Dendrobium cuthbertsonii orchids species group, violet flowers

Phalaenopsis equetris, orchids species,
on flowering

Links to information sheets about orchids species: Cattleya Intermedia, Dendrobium Cuthbertsonii and Phalaenopsis equestris:

Go to sheets on IOSPE:
Cattleya Intermedia - sheet on IOSPE
Dendrobium Cuthbertsonii - sheet on IOSPE
Phalaenopsis equestris - sheet on IOSPE

Go to sheets on Lagrelle:
Phalaenopsis equestris - sheet on Lagrelle

Go to photographic collection on Phals.net:
Phalaenopsis equestris - sheet on Phals.net

Phragmipedium kovachii, orchids species, flowering
(picture of 21 September 2012, Esslingen)

Sometimes words can not describe the surprise and wonder that you feel in front of certain spectacles of nature. All orchids blooming in the exposure deserved a photo because they were really beautiful, unfortunately I have not been able to capture them all, however some I did!

Paphiopedilum orchids group, in the exhibition area

An other Paphiopedilum orchids group on flowering, in the exhibition area

I am very sorry not to be able to make better pictures to groups of Paphiopedilum because I was charmed, plants were many and all with spectacular flowers. The orchids were set perfectly in the reconstruction of a tropical corner, not only flourished orchids but a veritable jungle of mosses, ferns and plants on a bed of bark.

Oncidium onustum, orchids species, mounted on cork, full blooming

The scent of the flower clusters of Oncidium was heady! You could hear to almost two meters away!
Of course even Cattleya's fragrance no joke, going around the room I could smell very different perfumes, all fantastic and I fell in love with the scent of flowers of Cattleya intermedia and Cattleya violacea which unfortunately I have not been able to photograph. Sooner or later I'll have one ...
Meanwhile, I photographed this beautiful Laelia with giant flowers, light purple coloered, that I really like.

Laelia pumila, orchids species, mounted on cork, full blooming

Links to information sheets about orchids species: Phragmipedium kovachii, Oncidium onustum e Laelia pumila:

Go to sheets on IOSPE:
Phragmipedium kovachii - sheet on IOSPE
Oncidium onustum - sheet on IOSPE
Laelia pumila - sheet on IOSPE

Phalaenopsis bellina,orchids species, flower detail
(picture of 21 September 2012, Esslingen)

My passion for Phalaenopsis, especially the bellina and the equestris species was remarkably increased by the visit to the International Exhibition of Orchids at Esslingen. On display was the most delightful group of Phal bellina you can immagine.

Phalaenopsis bellina, orchids species,
group of blooming plants

My desire to recreate a corner like that in my house grows every time I look at this photo, the plants are so well integrated in the setting that seem really grown sinking roots in the moss covering the rocks!
Are not adorable?
Is not far behind the group of Phalaenopsis amboinensis in full bloom, the photo is one of the worst that I did but I still want to keep it all for me. Maybe my little phal amboinensis will be like them one day!

Phalaenopsis amboinensis, orchids species,
group of flowering plants

Phalaenopsis equestris var flavilabia,
orchids species, group of flowering plants

From the photo you do not understand the size of the leaves of these Phalaenopsis equestris, were really huge for this species! The consistency then was phenomenal style "chicken breast". (I apologize for vegetarians but the comparison makes the idea).

Phalaenopsis and others orchids for sale,
group of flowering plants

This was one of the exhibitors, these orchids are all hybrid and lately I'm more interested in the botanical species, however the arrangement of plants and the variety of flower color impressed me.

Links to information sheets about orchids species: Phalaenopsis bellina and Phalaenopsis amboinensis

Go to sheets on IOSPE:

Phalaenopsis bellina - sheet on IOSPE

Phalaenopsis amboinensis - sheet on IOSPE

Go to sheets on Lagrelle:

Phalaenopsis bellina - sheet on Lagrelle

Phalaenopsis amboinensis - sheet on Lagrelle

Go to photographic collection on Phals.net:

Phalaenopsis bellina - sheet on Phals.net

Phalaenopsis amboinensis - sheet on Phals.net

Tolumnia triquetra, unexpected flowering

2012-12-13T17:24:00.000+01:00

Tolumnia triquetra, flowering orchid species,
growing mounted on cork slab,
in my orchidarium shelf, self made (DIY)
(picture of 26 August 2012)

I bought this delightful miniature orchid in mid-July from my fauvorite orchid seller Orchids & More.
It was already flowering and the relocation did not bother, the flowers lasted more then two weeks before starting to fade quietly. During this period it also began vegetative growth, a new shoot appeared at the base of the bigger fan of leaves. I thought I must wait until the maturation of the new fan to get further blooms, however the stem, as soon as it lost flowers, restarted working immediately!


Tolumnia triquetra, after the first flowering a new shoot comes out on the base and the sleeping bud on the stem wakes up (picture of 2 August 2012)	Tolumnia triquetra, starting second flowering three new buds come out the new shoot goes on growing (picture of August 2012)

This is my first Tolumnia orchid, I wanted it because I think its flowers are beautiful and reading informations on the net it seemed to be a plant suitable to growing conditions I can offer.
She does not need extremes levels of humidity and likes to be dry between waterings, the only question I had was about the amount of light needed to make it flourish, in fact the Tolumnia species need bright light and on my orchid-shelf there are only two 23W lightbulbs from the energy saving lamp to grow orchids self made, but she confirmed to me that is enough!


Tolumnia triquetra, second flowering, detail of new buds (picture of 8 August 2012)	Tolumnia triquetra, second flowering, detail of growing buds (picture of 17 August 2012)

The flowering took a little less than a month to mature, since the dormant bud was activated on August 1 until complete opening of the flowers on August 24. Flowers lasted almost the entire month of September!
Then flowers have faded quickly but the new fan is doing well so don't think I have to wait a long time befor this nice, generous miniature will rejoice me with new flowers!

Tolumnia triquetra, on flowering the second time,
growing in my orchidarium shelf, self made
(picture of 24 August 2012)

Links to information sheets about orchids species: Tolumnia triquetra

Go to sheets on IOSPE:
Tolumnia triquetra - sheet on IOSPE

Orchidarium shelf, self made (DIY).

2012-12-13T11:23:00.000+01:00

Orchidarium shelf, self made (DIY)
(pictures of 24 October 2012)

Orchidarium shelf DIY, the beginning
(pictures of 27 March 2012)

As always, space is tight and instead plants ... are never enough! After mounting the mini orchidarium I noticed that in my kitchen there was a lot of unused space, of course it was a bit high, and not really practical, but doable. Top of the refrigerator then there was just a nice space. So I recruited a volunteer. (!) At first I just wanted a simple shelf to better accommodate some poor Phalaenopsis in intensive care, in that corner does not come a lot of light, the window is two and a half meters far, a lamp was requested. I recycled an IKEA lamp built up with an energy saving light bulb 'Philips Tornado 23W 6500K cool daylight' for 12 hours a day with a timer-clock. The plants I settled there were all a bit battered because saved in various garden shops for a few euro, after some time I started to think about how to provide them with a good air humidity ...

Orchidarium shelf DIY
Brassed bracket for sliding
plexiglass wall of the

In a moment of inspiration I thought of the L-brackets, brass plated and then anti rust, to support transparent walls, of course plexiglass!
Was not possible to find a sheet of plexiglass that fits perfectly with the total height of the shelf, so I had to make do with a lower one. Then the biggest challenge was to invent a way to support two transparent walls that could not be supported by the top shelf. In the end the solution I have adopted is a lightweight and very simple wooden structure attached to the wall with other L-brackets, the sheet of plexiglass that acts as orchidarium lid also lays on the same wooden chopsticks, separating the humid inside from the upper side where is the self built energy saving lamp . To keep the humidity inside and simultaneously save the house wall from mold I lined the interior walls with a plastic packaging sheet which is very thin but however insulates from moisture and also a bit from the cold of the outside.

Orchidarium shelf DIY
Detail of the bracket that supports the structure
and the plexiglass wall of the

Obviously the space on the shelf was not so much so I added a nice plastic mesh for hanging pots and mounted orchids! Have not yet managed to find a box the right size to use as a base, so I put some common plastic saucers filled with expanded clay to keep the shelf surface as dry as possible, but I never pour water in the pots inside,I water them on the kitchen sink.
Since the air here has a relative humidity around 30%, then very low, even with all the plexiglass inside the orchidarium I could not keep the humidity value above 50%, so I bought a decorative ultrasonic nebulizer with colorful LED lights, one of those that can be used as a table centerpiece! At the beginning I just put in a plastic bowl resting inside the orchidarium but it occupied a lot of space, I had to check the water level every day (it doesn't work if there's too much or too less water!) and then when it was turned on it sprayed water everywhere, then one night I thought about how to put it outside the orchidarium and maybe add a bottle for automatic water refill. So I built a humidifier DIY! The fogger turn on automatically using a timer for 30 minutes every morning, just before the turning on of the lights, and then again for 15 minutes around noon.
Thanks to this useful change the moisture inside the orchidarium shelf varies from 65 to 100%, joy of orchids that live there.
The plants in the ICU were relocated on the top shelf above the door, with a lamp of luck, they are very warm so close to the ceiling and not being locked into the case than the spread of diseases or fungi or others is less easy.

Orchidarium shelf DIY, top shelf
Phalaenopsis orchids hospitalized

At the end, the shelf orchidarium that began as an hospital is becoming a real orchidarium with Phalaenopsis and other orchids species, the first orchid that showed a flowering was the Tolumnia triquetra, mounted on cork.
In recent days I have moved some of the mounted orchids in a new mini orchid tank that before was a small aquarium, so there is more space for a new arrivals!

Phalaenopsis Violacea, the first flowering!!!

2012-11-20T11:59:00.002+01:00

Phalaenopsis violacea coerulea, orchid species,
adult flower detail
var. coerulea Malaysia x Dark red "Norton"
(picture of 10 September 2012)

Phalaenopsis violacea coerulea,
orchid species,
bud at beginning of flowering
(picture of 6 September 2012)

Finally, the flower of this phalaenopsis species! The variety of color of my plant is Malaysia coerulea x Dark red "Norton", I was looking for it for a while and I had bad luck with the previus two orchids of the same kind. This very young phalaenopsis violacea came to me about a month ago (5 August 2012) with a growing flower stalk but a fungus attack on roots (details on New purchases: Phalaenopsis violacea).

Repotting in pure sphagnum is working well, there are no signs of rot and the youngest leaf continued to grow, the roots are getting longer and are getting used to stay wet for a shorter time (how to repot a Phalaenopsis orchid in sphagnum moss) .

I followed the development of the bud from day to day because the phal violacea is one of my favorites and I could not wait to see the flower and to finally discover its famous fragrance!

Phalaenopsis violacea coerulea,
orchid species, bud starts opening
(picture of 6 September 2012)

Phalaenopsis violacea coerulea,
orchid species, bud opening
(picture of 7 September 2012)

Phalaenopsis violacea coerulea, orchid species,
flower detail, almost opened
(picture of 7 September 2012)

The fragrance is wonderful, very sweet but with a slight hint of citrus scent. It always smells, even at night, but the parfume is much stronger in the morning, you can clearly feel it already from a meter away.
I noticed that the bud, the day before opening to reveal this beautiful flower, changed its structure, from a light and very shiny green it become a little matt yellow-green, even the stem had the same change in color, so that I was worried thinking to be near to lose it, but it was only a natural change due to the imminent opening.

Phalaenopsis violacea coerulea, orchid species, on flowering,
repotted in sphagnum moss
(picture of 10 September 2012)

Links to information sheets about orchids species: Phalaenopsis violacea and Phalaenopsis bellina:

Go to sheets on IOSPE:
Phalaenopsis violacea - sheet on IOSPE
Phalaenopsis bellina - sheet on IOSPE

Go to sheets on Lagrelle:
Phalaenopsis violacea - sheet on Lagrelle
Phalaenopsis bellina - sheet on Lagrelle

Go to photographic collection on Phals.net:
Phalaenopsis violacea - sheet on Phals.net
Phalaenopsis bellina - sheet on Phals.net

Phalaenopsis stuartiana, a mini seedling

2012-11-13T21:48:00.002+01:00

Among the overflowing benches of my faouvorite orchid seller, Orchids & More I can not stop to be amazed. You can find all kinds of surprises, such as cattleya plants only 12 cm high with beautiful flowers intermingled to huge Bulbophyllums!
In my last tour I bought a beautiful Phalaenopsis cornu-cervi in bloom and a vase with three seedlings of Phalaenopsis Schilleriana. At the end of the visit, which lasted always too short, I continued to go around, even if I would not have to take other plants since space in the house is small and already a bit crowded ... but my attention was caught by a group of seedlings of Phalaenopsis Stuartiana, they were all small, more or less the same size of the young Phalaenopsis Schilleriana, but looking closely there was a tiny seedling completely out of the vessel substrate.

Phalaenopsis stuartiana, orchid species,
seedling with new roots growing
(picture of 31 August 2012)

The older roots were black, dry and empty, however showed all his desire to live with three new roots just, two of which are actively growing! Certainly did not have much hope if left there out of the pot, it would fall over, who knows where, so I took it and brought to the cash desk with the others, the owner of the nursery, very kind as always, gave it to me for free!

Phalaenopsis stuartiana, orchid species,
seedling out of pot, with new roots growing
(picture of 31 August 2012)

At home I proceeded on cutting all the damaged roots and remove the dry parts stuck to the stem, rest of the leaves fallen some time ago.
Then, at the end, a good bath into a systemic fungicide (Azoxystrobin 23.2%, dose 1ml x liter of water + fosetyl-al 746g/kg, dose 5mg x liter of water), this mixture with these doses I was advised one of the owners of Orchids & More, their use it in their greenhouses!
After the shower I left it to dry upside-down overnight and the next morning it looked like new!
It's so small that the repotting in pure sphagnum seemed just the best thing for her, (how to repot a Phalaenopsis in sphagnum moss) the smallest pot I have is 5 cm large and is still a bit too big to this tiny orchid. I'll have to be more careful than usual not to give her too much water but I do not anticipate big problems.

Phalaenopsis stuartiana, orchid species,
seedling repotted in sphagnum-moss
(picture of 1 September 2012)

The one-cent coin gives a good idea of the size of this Lilliputian Phalaenopsis stuartiana, but on the smaller leaf begins to glimpse the typical mottle of the leaves of this species and the underside has a beautiful violet-purple tinge.

Links to information sheets about orchids species: Phalaenopsis Stuartiana:

Go to sheets on IOSPE:
Phalaenopsis Stuartiana - sheet on IOSPE

Go to sheets on Lagrelle:
Phalaenopsis Stuartiana - sheet on Lagrelle

Go to photographic collection on Phals.net:
Phalaenopsis Stuartiana - sheet on Phals.net

Phalaenopsis Schilleriana, new seedlings.

2012-11-13T17:14:00.000+01:00

Phalaenopsis Schilleriana,
orchid species,
seedlings just purchased
(picture of 1 September 2012)

At Orchids & More, or the paradise of orchids, as I call it, every inch is full of wonders! I never know where to look! There are thousands of plants, from giants Dendrobium with more than a meter long steams, to super miniatures such as Macroclinium Aurorae of 3 cm. Inside the last greenhouse there are often young plants, sometimes come from their own sowing! This time I was captured by these tiny Phalaenopsis Schilleriana. It took me about half an hour to choose the vessel that promised better, they were all very nice but these have nice new leaves and roots, and they are three instead of two!

I love the color of the leaves of this phalaenopsis, that you see already they are so small, in fact higher pages are silver speckled with dark green while the lower ones are tinged with a dark purple. The flowers, though it will take a few years for them, will be a delicate pastel pink and if I'll be able to do everything well they could appear like a waterfall, up to 250!
By now I just have to cultivate and watch them grow, if I'm able, is already a satisfaction! I brought it out of the pot to check the roots below the surface because the vase was black and I can see nothing inside. I found a principle of black rot but it was dry, thanks to treatment with systemic fungicides given in the greenhouse, and I do not think that will give much trouble.

I decided to repott them in only sphagnum moss, (read the details on how to repot a Phalaenopsis in sphagnum) first because, reading on the net, many experts say that the young plants grow better and faster in sphagnum than in other types of substrate and second I seem to have it easier to manage the watering of pots filled so; maybe because the high dryness of the air? For a while I will keep them just barely moist, being careful to never send water in direct contact with the stem not to give way to the rot to attack them back, I'll do all of that? I hope so!

Phalaenopsis Schilleriana, orchid species,
seedlings repotted in sphagnum moss
(picture of 1 September 2012)

Going around the benches brimming over with plants I spotted a group of small Phalaenopsis Stuartiana, were all more or less the same size of the Schilleriana but looking closely there was a tiny seedling completely outside the substrate of the pot, with the older roots black and empty but three new roots growing. I had already bought the Phalaenopsis cornu-cervi and the Phalaenopsis schilleriana but this baby did not have much hope if left there. I took it and flow with the other at the checkout ...
More in: Phalaenopsis stuartiana, a mini seedling.

Links to information sheets about orchids species: Phalaenopsis Cornu-Cervi, Phalaenopsis Schilleriana and Phalaenopsis Stuartiana:

Go to sheets on IOSPE:
Phalaenopsis Cornu-Cervi - sheet on IOSPE
Phalaenopsis Schilleriana - sheet on IOSPE
Phalaenopsis Stuartiana - sheet on IOSPE

Go to sheets on Lagrelle:
Phalaenopsis Cornu-Cervi - sheet on Lagrelle
Phalaenopsis Schilleriana - sheet on Lagrelle
Phalaenopsis Stuartiana - sheet on Lagrelle

Go to photographic collection on Phals.net:
Phalaenopsis Cornu-Cervi - sheet on Phals.net
Phalaenopsis Schilleriana - sheet on Phals.net
Phalaenopsis Stuartiana - sheet on Phals.net

Phalaenopsis cornu-cervi on flowering, repotted!

2012-11-13T17:09:00.000+01:00

Phalaenopsis Cornu-Cervi
orchid species, detail of flowers
(picture of 2 September 2012)

Phalaenopsis Cornu-Cervi
orchid species,
just purchased with several aerial roots

I needed to ask something about some problems with the first plants living inside the new mini orchidarium just set up and buy some sphagnum-moss, so I went to my trusted orchid seller, Orchids & More. Of course if you go there you must do at least a walk in the greenhouses! As always not enough time to see everything and also request information, but my attention was caught by the beautiful flowers of a Phalaenopsis-Cornu Cervi, a large mature plant with three stalks in bloom!

The plant has some problems on the leaves but was treated with systemic fungicides, growth of the new leaf is clean so the fungus maybe was stopped. The roots thought to grow all out of the pot so the plant is not stable and may fall down by the weight of the leaves and the branches.
The seller agrees, a repotting is urgent!
Yes, but how?

First of all I decided not to wait the end of the flowering, that could be advisable in the most of cases, because inside the clear pot I can see only one root and the arial roots would not survive long in the too dry air of my flat. Once out of pot I looked well and there was not so much to be cutted, only some old root was over dry and empty.
No rots!

Phalaenopsis Cornu-Cervi
orchid species, roots situation

It took me a little time to decide how to fix it, because the roots are almost all aireal I have even thought to mount it, but it is a very large plant and I don't have the moisture it needs in my house, until I will have a giant un'orchidarium I must avoid large mounts. So, in a pot!

The pot size was necessarily larger than the former to be able to put in all the roots, I chose one clear, 15 cm in diameter, well drilled. I needed a very airy potting mixture so I put bark, medium and large size, with a little moss in tufts, is very draining but also retains some moisture, we'll see if I can get the roots happy inside it!
To convince the roots to bend I have previously wetted but even so a few were broken, it was inevitable, and also the seller told me so; patience, healthy roots are many and the plant should not be affected.

Phalaenopsis Cornu-Cervi, orchid species, repotting,
detail of the environment, medium-large bark and sphagnum moss

Phalaenopsis Cornu-Cervi
orchid species on flowering,
ultimate repotting into medium-large bark and sphagnum moss
(picture of 2 September 2012)

Once you have completed the whole process of repotting it seems even more beautiful!
I love it, the stems continue to grow and have opened two buds!

In the same visit to the greenhouse I bought also some seedlings of other orchids:
a pot of Phalaenopsis Schilleriana (read the post)
and one with a tiny Phalaenopsis Stuartiana (read the post).

Energy-saving lamp to grow orchids, self-made.

2012-11-02T16:32:00.001+01:00

Energy-saving lamp DIY, on the new mini orchidarium

Before I make decisions on how and how much light give to the mini orchidarium I studied a lot. Unfortunately, there are no universal answers, each plant has different light needs and every terrarium is in a location in the house that has, or not, the day light. For sure we have to know at least the right "color" that light must have to be useful to our orchids, in fact using a wrong light even 2000 W would not have an significant effect! The light that activates photosynthesis, and is therefore useful to our plants to grow and flourish, is in the spectrum of blue and red, in short, it is recommended that you choose lamps with a color temperature of around 6400 K, combined with others around 2400 K, but the first would seem to be more effective. I finally decided! I bought 2 Philips Tornado cool daylight 6500 K, enlightening power 1450 Lumen.

Orchidarium DIY lamp, upper side

Energy-saving lamp 6500 K,
usefull to grow orchids

I had not yet solved the problem of how to install them also adding a reflector to limit the waste. At the end the solution was effortless! A resin drainpipe ! The shape is perfect and it is also easy to cut and drill! After cutting a piece of "correct" length to be above the mini orchidarium I lined it with aluminum adhesive tape , to attach the socket I used trivial plastic ties purchased at the hardware store. The only difficulty was to understand how to space the lamps from the ceiling, at first I used some pieces of foam tucked under the lamp holder but unfortunately they were not strong enough, then I found the remnants of wooden chopsticks, all OK! The electrical connection is simple, you just need a bit of practice, or ask for help from someone who knows how to make it. The plug is connected to a simple 24h timer that has half-hour intervals.

At first I set the lighting to around 14 hours a day, but the plants have become too light or dark or red and dehydrated, so I reduced to 12 hours a day and I replaced a 23W lamp with a lower power one (8W) always 6500K. I think I see an overall improvement in the color of the leaves but it is still early to say, however, red is almost gone, this is certainly a positive sign!
This is the top view of the mini orchid set up with the lamp.

Mini orchidarium, a glass case to set up

2012-11-02T16:32:00.000+01:00

Phalaenopsis species and primary hybrids, seedlings:
Violacea coerulea , Bellina Ponkan, Equetris Apari,
Mariae, Pulchra, Hieroglyphica x Mariae,
Equestris aurea x Cornu-cervi flava,
Lueddemanniana x Fasciata

When I started growing orchids I didn't have a clear idea of the variety of species in this family of plants, only after reading everything I could find on the net, I started realizing it. The earliest species that I dared approach were phalaenopsis, I found on Ebay very interesting auctions and I attended. I won! I managed to have some young specimens of phal I studied for a while: violacea var. coerulea (Krulls Smith x Dark red Norton), bellina Ponkan, equetris Apari, mariae, pulchra, I also got interesting primary hybrids : hieroglyphica x mariae, equestris aurea x cornu-cervi flava and lueddemanniana x fasciata.

Mini Orchidarium, neoprene carpet

Since the relative humidity in the house is around 35 - 40% I was sure that these plants, much more susceptible of commercial hybrids, would be not so happy on the window sill, so I decided, orchidarium! Luckily here in Munich the prices of glass terrariums are very accessible, for mine, measuring 60cm long by 40 cm wide and 50 cm high, I paid € 49. To protect both the glass and the kitchen counter on which the terrarium rests I added a neoprene pad for aquariums bought in the same store, it also ensures a better temperature seal. To coat the interior walls and hang mounted orchids (!), I opted for "agglomerated" cork panels ,very cheap but aesthetically passable. On the wall by the side of the window I wanted to allow at least a little light comes in and, at the same time, avoid direct sunlight, so I cut the cork panel following an interesting curve, I like the result!

Mini Orchidarium,
coating in contoured cork

For the floor the initial idea was to create a true paludarium filling the base with 4 cm of peat and perlite very wet, as you do for carnivorous plants, but due to the temporary difficulty in finding some peat I gave up (for the moment! )
and I used some easy to find expanded clay, hydroponic kind. Before putting it in the tank I boiled for about 15 minutes and then rinsed well, when it dries I wet it again pouring water directly on the tank, this allows me to keep the relative humidity inside the orchidarium to acceptable values (min 65%, max 85%). The lighting was the most difficult part, the natural light is not the best since the window is about 3 meters far and at the direct sunlight is to be avoided not to burn the plants and not to overheat the environment. I read a lot on the net to get an idea of the light requirements of the plants that I have more interest in, phalaenopsis need low to medium light, but through the thumbnails orchids there is a variety of needs of light that can also be a "bright light" until a few hours of direct sun... At the end I decided to build up an energy saving lamp by my self.

Mini Orchidarium, glass case built up and ready to riceive orchids!

The artificial light is on from 9AM to 9PM.
Unfortunately I had a number of drawbacks with the first plants in my mini orchidarium...

First plants in my mini orchidarium

2012-11-02T16:31:00.000+01:00

Phalaenopsis Violacea,
orchid species,
roots with fungal disease.

Buy on EBAY can be beneficial but it all depends on the seriousness of the seller, even if the percentage of positive feedback is the maximum does not mean that everything will go as you hope ...
I participated in a series of open auctions from a seller who seemed very trusted, I won almost everything that I had fixed and so I paid a single shipment for up to 5 young phalaenopsis species. The ads said "vigorous young plant," there were also photos and plants seemed healthy.

When the courier rang I was not in my skin, I was elated and could not wait to see my new awaited plants to populate the mini orchidarium just set up. It seemed to me on Christmas morning! The first impression I got was that the leaves seemed grown in the dark, were thin and very pale, I was afraid it would break. Then I started looking into the vessels to check the roots. A disaster!

I did not think it was possible, all plants had their roots completely destroyed by a fungal disease or something else, there was almost nothing that could be saved! The only hint of a new root growth was on the Phalaenopsis Equestris Apari, but the two new roots were less than one centimeter long!

Phalaenopsis Equestris Apari,
orchid species, seedling,
roots killed by fungal disease (Phytophthora or Pythium).

Phalaenopsis Mariae was the only flowering size plant, it had a small floral stem about 3 cm coming out of the jar and one hidden under the bark, unfortunately, the condition of roots was not good, I tried to put mount it on a cork slab, as this phalaenopsis prefers to grow, with the roots free on the air, and it tends to turn down the leaves and stems.

Phalaenopsis Mariae, orchid species, mounted on cork.

The Phal. Bellina Ponkan had few roots and thin leaves, transparent enough to be able to see, in the light, the whole internal structure.

Phalaenopsis Bellina Ponkan,
orchid species, photo from the Ebay sales ad.

Phalaenopsis Bellina Ponkan,
orchid species, after 4 months of cultivation.

As may be seen on the photos in the last four months, the size of the leaves remained the same and unfortunately the evil fungus continued to hold hostage this plant causing it to lose a few leaves and attacking the roots still alive, however, the plant seems to have responded well even if there are no signs of new leaves or roots, the remaining leaves had significantly changed in consistency and are no longer so clear, especially I do not have the impression that they tear as soon as I touch them, now they are normal leaves of a young phalaenopsis! I don't have a photo of the little phal Hieroglyphica x Mariae just arrived but, like its companions in misfortune, it was pretty sad, almost zero roots and very thin leaves. It had the great courage to grow a new leaf but then some evil entity attacked again. The last plant that was in the package I didn't buy it, the seller has added its own initiative, perhaps to apologize for the general state of the roots, it was a primary hybrid and I went immediately to search the web, Phalaenopsis equestris aurea x Phalaenopsis cornu-cervi flava. Of course the plant was tiny and rootless, but if it ever reach the flowering will be truly a sight not to be missed!
I just hope that treatments I'm giving to all will be effective!

Phalaenopsis Equestris Aurea x Cornu-Cervi Flava,
primary hybrid, seedling,
in pot with bark and sphagnum

How to repot a Phalaenopsis orchid in sphagnum-moss

2012-10-22T16:53:00.001+02:00

The basic steps of my repotting in sphagnum:

rinse sphagnum dry under hot running water

rinse with water by osmosis (or distilled or rain water)

wring strong

break to pieces by about 1-2 cm giving volume and air

put a first layer of sphagnum in the vessel

place the plant

fill the jar without crushing too much

free the holes on the bottom

water in small doses only when it is well dry

fertilize in small doses

Phalaenopsis schilleriana, orchid species,
sphagnum moss repotting
(picture of 4 October 2012)

Some orchids grow much better and faster if potted in sphagnum-moss, this is because in the wild they live immersing their roots in soft moss pillows. Sphagnum has the qualities, not indifferent, to produce some antifungal substances, stabilize the pH and maintain good moisture. Dry sphagnum (dehydrated) can be found at nurseries specializing in orchids or, though rarely, you can find the live sphagnum. To repot our Phalaenopsis seedlings, freshly deflasked, keiki or the more common mini-phalaenopsis, you normally use dry sphagnum . In nature there are many different species of moss but to grow orchids what is important is not the species but the quality of fibers: the best fiber of sphagnum is the bigger one because it will stay more elastic and compact so less compressed in the vessels, lets more air circulating and promotes drying of the roots of fundamental importance for all orchids, especially for epiphytic species such as Phalaenopsis.

Dry sphagnum-moss

Another point in favor of our repotting orchids, young or small, only in sphagnum is that this substrate is like a sponge, when you give water to the plant this is absorbed almost immediately and the roots are not "wet" but very humid, humidity is maintained longer and higher than with other materials (such as bark), which helps the growth of roots. On the other hand you have to be very careful not to pour too much water in the pot because the ability of moss to absorb is huge, the more you put the more it takes. You should never soak the pot or roots of the plant would remain too wet for too long, triggering fungal diseases and rotting of any kind! Absolutely do not have to water by diving, but just pour water in small doses. It is also important to adjust with fertilizer, can not soak or rinse the salts from roots, they tend to accumulate, so use a very low concentration and not very often, maybe a tenth of the normal dose no more than once a month and only during the active growth of the plant.
Ok, now to the action!

Repot a Phalaenopsis in sphagnum
early stage, adding of the first
sphagnum layer

First of all rinse sphagnum under warm running water, you should use a fine weave strainer to avoid losing half of the moss. If your tap water is a bit limestone is necessary to rinse with soft water such as filtered by reverse osmosis or distilled water (the one for the iron!) or rain water is fine. After washed sphagnum wringing strong to release excess water. At this point we are left with a damp and compressed ball of sphagnum moss that is not very good ... must fray it! To fill the pots is better to tear the sphagnum by your hands, it into pieces about 1-2 inches long, giving volume and air. Once ready put a little sphagnum in the jar you want to use, do not crush it, only position it properly so that no big holes remain inside. Are the roots that choose the pot, you must only help them! Fix the plant so that the collar is more or less at the same level of the edge of the pot and begin to add another sphagnum around the roots, always placing it well.

Repot a Phalaenopsis in sphagnum
intermediate stage, placement of the orchid inside the pot

Repot a Phalaenopsis in sphagnum
intermediate stage, top up the pot after placement of the orchid

Now the work is almost complete, just missing a critical step, clear the holes on the bottom of the pot to allow proper air flow!

Repot a Phalaenopsis in sphagnum
final stage, free the holes to help air movement on roots

Phalaenopsis bellina!

2012-10-19T15:29:00.000+02:00

Phalaenopsis Bellina, young orchid species,
just purchased, in pot with bark mix
(picture of 5 August 2012)

Together with the Phalaenopsis violacea there were also some specimens of Phalaenopsis Bellina, no one had the flower stalk and they had recently undergone serious damage by an evil fungus, maybe Rhizoctonia solani or Phytophthora cactorum. After taking the Phalaenopsis violacea I didn't want to buy other plants, the space inside an apartment is limited, I have another phal. Bellina even if it seems frozen ... But when I looked at them, one in particular has been noted, it came out of the pot, literally! it fell upside down, the roots that were inside were all completely dehydrated! I could not leave it, so I asked to the boss of the nursery (Orchids & More) if I could get a good price (which is always a bit strange here in Germany, but here I am) SUPER DISCOUNT! Only 8 euro, JACK! Of course the roots ...

Phalaenopsis Bellina orchid, botanical species
roots killed by a fungal disease
(Phytophthora or Pythium)
(picture of 5 August 2012)

are not the best, I had to cut everything under the leaves, But there are already 3 other new roots growing through the higher leaves , to be safe I put it to soak for about an hour in the water with systemic action fungicide (Azoxystrobin 22.9%, 1 ml diluted in 0.7 l of water). At the end of the bath I put it to upside down to dry for about an hour, to avoid the risk of unwanted stagnation, at the end I placed it in a transparent pot of 8 cm, equal to the previous extent that was black, filled with sphagnum a bit humid (read the details on how to repot a Phalaenopsis in sphagnum). Phalaenopsis bellina and Phalaenopsis violacea are placed together on a tray with wet clay pebbles and placed on a side of the kitchen window that faces east, absolutely never take direct sun but a nice soft light they should like, I hope. I just have to cross my fingers and wait.

Phalaenopsis Bellina, orchid species
repotted in sphagnum-moss,
on wet expanded clay
(picture of 6 August 2012)

Links to information sheets about orchids species: Phalaenopsis Violacea and Phalaenopsis Bellina:

Go to sheets on IOSPE:
Phalaenopsis Violacea - sheet on IOSPE
Phalaenopsis Bellina - sheet on IOSPE

Go to sheets on Lagrelle:
Phalaenopsis Violacea - sheet on Lagrelle
Phalaenopsis Bellina - sheet on Lagrelle

Go to photographic collection on Phals.net:
Phalaenopsis Violacea - sheet on Phals.net
Phalaenopsis Bellina - sheet on Phals.net

New purchases: Phalaenopsis violacea and ...

2012-10-18T15:28:00.000+02:00

Phalaenopsis Violacea,
young orchid species, first flowering,
potted in sphagnum moss
(picture of 5 August 2012)
var. coerulea Malysia x Dark red "Norton"

Is a long time I want to see a flowering of Phalaenopsis violacea and Phalaenopsis bellina, unfortunately, the various attempts to purchase I've made so far have been disappointing. Last Saturday we had plans to meet a dear friend fond of orchids like me, I jumped on the bandwagon, we took him to meet my favorite orchids seller (Orchids & More). I discovered recently that only 2 miles from my house is located one of the most well-stocked greenhouses of orchids in Germany! A great place. Towards the end of our visit,in the last hall, I saw a group of phalaenopsis with flower stems in growth, they were phal. Violacea ! (var. Malaysia coerulea x dark red Norton).
Unfortunately, all the plants had recently been the victim of a fungal disease, so even if new leaves were beautiful, some roots and old leaves was not the best, but the stem was perfect, and she was calling me ...

Phalaenopsis Violacea,
orchid species,
detail of stem and roots
(picture of 5 August 2012)

I found the plant that seemed to be better, it has 2 new leaves and a lot of roots still healthy although the pot was filled with some synthetic fiber cubes instead of normal substrates like bark or sphagnum-moss; those cubes are too much absorbent so they were too wet and they had a stange, worrying smell.
Roots over the substrate have typical signs of Rhizoctonia solani fungus and after removing all the cubes I had a confirmation to my suspect: all the oldest roots (those in the center of the pot) were completely rotten and others were starting to rot, however, after cutting all the bad parts using sterilized scissors there are enough healthy roots. After cutting, I put the plant soaking in a systemic fungicide for about an hour (Azoxystrobin 22.9%, 1 ml diluted in 0.7 l of water).

Phalaenopsis Violacea, during repoting, roots detail,
those in the middle have rotted
by a fungal disease (Phytophthora or Pythium)
(picture of 5 August 2012)

I thought for a while 'before deciding how to repot, for sure I wouldn't miss the flowering and already the stress of the environment change and the cut of several roots do not help, of course I do not want to miss the remaining roots, then I decided, only sphagnum! (read how to repot a Phalaenopsis in sphagnum-moss).

As retention of humidity and consistence, sphagnum is the more similar substrate to cubes in which the roots have grown and I can gradually get them used to dry out between watering. Since this kind of phalaenopsis likes a humid climate, I put it in a bowl with wet expanded clay in a not too bright light position, in fact this species loves very suffused light.
Here it is in its location close to the Phalaenopsis Bellina.

Phalaenopsis Bellina and Phalaenopsis Violacea, orchids species,
repotted with sphagnum-moss, on wet expanded-clay
(picture of 6 August 2012)

Baby Cattleya are growing

2012-10-17T09:32:00.000+02:00

My tiny SLC (sophro-laelio-cattleya) came from international orchids exposition of Munich, they were inside an Orchi-pack, 5 small seedlings of about 2 cm with roots in feeding jelly. The seller told me that it would take up to 5 years for the first flowering and he recommended me to don't open the glass for the next two months, to keep them in a quite place and so repot in small bark with sphagnum moss; What a shame he did not tell me not to remove the external sachet.

Sophro-laelio-cattleya
seedlings in sphagnum-therapy
(picture of 2 August 2012)
Hybrid: (Laelia Lucasiana x Cattleya violacea) x Love Knot,

As soon as I discovered that the glass was not sealed without the bag I wrapped it in cling film hoping that it wasn't contaminated. I placed in a warm place, on top of the refrigerator, took light from the window facing East but far 2 meters and half. I've been waiting for 2 months, watching almost every day, progress has been minimal, not knowing if was their normal rate of growth or not I did not bother, then a panic morning : MILDEW! The whole jelly was covered with! AND EVEN SOME ROOTS! In the closed and wet pack if mildew is growing even fungi can quickly attack, the plants could be died. I immediately pulled out and washed well under running warm water; then 'cause I'm not so practical in Cattleya & Co. I didn't trust to repot them, so I placed in beautiful glass jar with a layer of about 3 cm of moist sphagnum around.

Sophro-laelio-cattleya
seedlings 3 months after deflasking
(picture of 2 August 2012)
Hybrid: (Laelia Lucasiana x Cattleya violacea) x Love Knot

Sophro-laelio-cattleya
just repotted in sphagnum
(picture of 26 July 2012)
Hybrid: (Laelia Lucasiana x Cattleya violacea)
x Love Knot

They were "big" about 2 cm each. After three days on the smallest plant I saw a suspect fluff, again MOLD! At this point I decided to do an experiment on the smallest plant, I could not put it back in the jar with the other so I half-repotted it! In fact I put on the bottom of a transparent jar about 7 cm of diameter, with a layer of only 1 cm of wet sphagnum around the base, inside the small orchidarium. Thus, light from the window away two and a half meters plus artificial lights lit 14 hours a day, relative humidity never below 65% with peaks of 90%, minimum temperatures 21°C and maximum 28C°. By the second day I started to give to it a light spray of water in the morning increasing the amount gradually to give a light "shower" when the roots are completely dry. That was two months ago today the 4 that were under glass are still pretty much the same, they are grown only a bit and you can also see some signs of a fungus attack of some roots, the fifth plant instead is all the rage in his mini pot with sphagnum, here it is, just repotted in the first picture and now, after 2 months of cultivation in sphagnum.

Sophro-laelio-cattleya
3 months after deflasking, grow in sphagnum-moss
(picture of 26 July 2012)
Hybrid: (Laelia Lucasiana x Cattleya violacea) x Love Knot

I thought a bit about that and at the end I decided to put also the other four in a pot with sphagnum , I was unsure whether to try in a pot with small bark and moss but when I pulled them out of the jar they were dehydrated and with a beginning of fungi and they could not survive in bark, do not have enough roots.

Sophro-laelio-cattleya
seedlings in pot with sphagnum-moss
(picture of 2 August 2012)
Hybrid: (Laelia Lucasiana x Cattleya violacea) x Love Knot

Of course I must be veeeery patient before get flowers, but in the meantime see them grow is already a great satisfaction!

Links to information sheets about: Laelia lucasiana and Cattleya violacea:

Go to sheets on IOSPE:
Laelia lucasiana - sheet on IOSPE
Cattleya violacea - sheet on IOSPE

My Macodes petola, successful experiment?

2012-10-16T13:26:00.000+02:00

Macodes Petola, jewel orchid species,
ditails of leaf and vegetative shoot apex

I came across this orchid by accident and it was love at first sight, its leaves are very dark green velvet and no pictures can make justice to the golden veins, it seems that an artist has painted with glitter, beautiful! The nice lady who sold it to me told me to keep it "more or less like a phalaenopsis," I was not familiar with the genus Macodes and I do not like the "more or less", so I trawled the depths of the web to find all the available informations, you can't find that much.
For sure it's a terrestrial orchid that loves the shade and always moist soil, relative humidity as high as possible, never standing water. The flowers are a minor detail, rather insignificant, the beauty of the plant are the leaves. Ok, I'll try, now I bought it, is also a young plant, who knows?

Macodes Petola, jewel orchid species,
in a pot with bark and sphagnum moss,
full plant view
just after purchasing

I left it in its own pot because I believe that they repotted it recently, moving the bark also the hidden was perfect and I wouldn't have easily guessed the right "mix",it's my first terrestrial. I think I had the right amount of luck and a good eye for the location, I placed in the bedroom at about 3 meters far of the window, exposure to East.The temperature at that point is always quite stable, in winter there are min 19C° max 22C°, in summer min 22C° and max 25C°. The air humidity is a problem because the air here is really dry, even to breathe, so instead of the saucer I put a big plastic tray with expanded clay always kept moist (never hold water in contact with the vessel, or the rot is instantaneous and fulminant). I sprinkle water on the leaves almost every morning (unless I forget ...) and I spray a bit in the pot too when I feel that is light, just until it starts to come out from the bottom, then stop. If I prepare the fertilizer (NPK 20-20-20 or 28-14-14 NPK dose 0.5 g per liter) for the others orchids I use it for the shower in the morning, I seem to have guessed...

After 4 and a half months I have several new leaves and even a small shoot! Maybe in the fall I'll see these pleasant, although not very popular, flowers.

Macodes Petola, jewel orchid species,
growth after 4 and 1/2 months

Macodes Petola, jewel orchid species, growth of a new shoot

Links to information sheets about: Macodes Petola:

Go to sheets on IOSPE:
Macodes Petola - sheet on IOSPE

Young Phalaenopsis from the flask to a bark pot

2012-10-15T13:23:00.006+02:00

Phalaenopsis Kuntrarti rarashati x Lindenii,
Seedlings in pots with bark and sphagnum-moss

At the beginning of March in Munich there's a beautiful international exhibition of orchids from around the world, I could not resist the temptation to buy an orchi-pack! That is a small group of 4 or 5 seedlings growing in nutrient gelatin, sealed in a glass of clear plastic..

I took those hybrids of Phalaenopsis Kuntrarti Rarashati x Phalaenopsis lindenii because I liked the pictures of the parents and the seedlings in the glass were larger than the others and seemed to be vigorous. Even if it takes years to see the flowers ... I can not wait!

The seller told me to leave them locked in the glass for 2 weeks but looking good in there was like a milkshake, I finally opened the glass on the fourth day because I saw something yellow.

I think I did well, the plants were twisted and had no direction, the jelly was everywhere! The yellow thing that worried me was a leaf, luckily no damage.
First, when you remove the plants from the gelatin should wash well under warm running water and remove ALL debris, done! Then they need to drain upside down to prevent water stagnation in the axils of leaf, done! When dry should be repotted in moist, not wet, substrate (and understand this difference is fundamental, but not so easy), done! I potted with thin bark and a little sphagnum moss in transparent pots of 8 cm. And then?

Phalaenopsis Kuntrarti rarashati x Lindenii,
Seedlings in pots with bark and sphagnum-moss

I read almost everything about how to treat the deflasked plants , obviously considering only "authoritative" sources as specialized nurseries etc., someone say to put them in moist sphagnum moss and seal tightly, others say invasarle and sprinkle 2 times a day, someone says repot and forget them ...
I tried not to give them water but they become visibly dehydrated then the third day after repotting I started to give a light spray of water on the leaves and in the pot early in the morning, an hour after the leaves were completely dry and the vessels had only a little humidity. I also added an artificial light (8 watt energy-saving, 6500 K) for 12 hours a day as the time of the year was not yet optimal, they like it, have stoped to become dehydrated and have resumed growth after about a month after repotting . Today they are like that:

Phalaenopsis Kuntrarti rarashati x Lindenii,
Seedlings in pots with bark and sphagnum-moss, 4 and 1/2 months after deflasking

As you can see from the photos the new leaves, grown at home, have a shape and texture other than the precedings, I would say that we are on the right track!
Unfortunately the fourth plant was killed by a series of events ...

Phalaenopsis Kuntrarti rarashati = (equestris x venosa)

Links to information sheets about: Phalaenopsis equestris, Phalaenopsis venosa and Phalaenopsis lindenii:

Go to sheets on IOSPE:
Phalaenopsis equestris- sheet on IOSPE
Phalaenopsis venosa - sheet on IOSPE
Phalaenopsis lindenii - sheet on IOSPE

Go to sheets on Lagrelle:
Phalaenopsis equestris- sheet on Lagrelle
Phalaenopsis venosa - sheet on Lagrelle
Phalaenopsis lindenii - sheet on Lagrelle

Go to photographic collection on Phals.net:
Phalaenopsis equestris - sheet on Phals.net
Phalaenopsis venosa - sheet on Phals.net
Phalaenopsis lindenii - sheet on Phals.net
Phalaenopsis Kuntrarti rarashati - sheet on Phals.net

Saving a rootless Oncidium

2012-10-12T11:49:00.000+02:00

I adopted this plant in the bargain corner of IKEA for 30 euro cents in November 7, 2011, it had only the few aerial roots out of the pot, all that was inside was just a black mass ...

The cause is certainly standing water that led to a bad attack of fungi (Pythium or Phytophthora) because of the compound into the vessel, there was no bark, just mush.

Once clean and dry, looked like this:

Oncidium orchid hybrid, few healthy roots,
just bought from the bargain corner

Oncidium hybrid orchid, few roots still alive

The powder you see is cinnamon, the one for sweets, I put it where I cut off the rotten parts of the rhizome, reading on the Internet I found that it has antibacterial and antifungal properties but be careful not to overuse of it because it can damage the tissue of healthy roots. The pseudobulbs were only dehydrated and with a principle of rot, it was not so bad, I made a series of baths of about 4 hours in the water and propamocarb + fosetyl aluminum (dose of 3 ml per liter) repeated about every week for 4 times (to be safe). The orchid gave no sign for a while, of course, was traumatized and it was not a good season ... I placed it in about 3 cm of medium size bark in a bottom of perforated plastic bottle instead af a normal pot. The bottle-pot was in a clear vase with wet expanded-clay to give more air humidity ... I know is not possible to understand all this situation like I explained it! Maybe with a picture is better!

Oncidium hybrid orchid, temporary repotted, on wet expanded clay

I put the roots under the bark, the bark did'nt touch the water and it was almost always dry, sometimes I sprayed near the edge of the bottle to do not let the roots too dry and get them used to an higher humidity. I believe that for this process is essential to take a long time, the aerial roots, ie those grown in free air, rot veeeery easily if are suddenly put under a layer of material that is damp or, worse, wet . For this plant I continued to give a light sprinkling every now and then for about a month (once or twice a week). This is because in mid-December ...

Oncidium hybrid orchid, new growing speudobulb

there it is, in the middle of winter! A new shoot of pseudobulb! Of course, the plant was inside my flat, with minimum temperatures 18C°, maximum 22C°, but on the window sill where I did not measur, maybe they were a bit different 'cause the cold outside (even -20C°) and the radiator under the sill...
However, the small pseudobulb has a little dried up the two "parents" but was finally able to pull out its roots, then I added a little' of bark, a total of about 5 or 6 cm. Towards the end of January the new roots were about 2 cm long and I stepped up the watering. At the beginning always watered with sprinkler, wetting the leaves and the pseudobulbs, so increasingly, until I get to once a day, anyway after a couple of hours was all dry again. In March I started with baths! Now I can put the pot in water for about 2 hours (due to the starting dehydration) when the roots and the soil is completely dry, every 2 or 3 baths get one with fertilizer, diluted 0.5 grams per liter of water, (NPK 28-14-14 for growth, now 20-20-20).
I read about oncidium that like to stay a little moist between waterings otherwise you'll have new bulbs with curly leaves, sterile, that can not bloom! However, this plant is an hybrid from mall, so is very strong, and in my opinion even if it dries out one more day should flower. Let's hope so! When the new jet has stopped I watered even less, leaving it dry (white roots, light bark, no condensation in the jar) up to 4 days, is a bit too much but sometimes I'm missing something.

Oncidium hybrid orchid, new pseudobulb grown up

The one in front of the pot is the pseudobulb born in my house last December.
What will be this?I cheer for flowers!

Oncidium hybrid orchid, new pseudobulb grown up
with a new shoot and new roots