DRIFTING GUIDE.

STIFORP FOR PROFIT - Let's Drift Our Income.

2012-09-09T08:51:00.000-07:00

There are OVER 200 Million Home Based Business Operators in the world and sooner or later they ALL WILL need this service...STIFORP. [PROFITS spelled backwards]

Here is an interesting fact...in the Yukon and California Gold Rushes, the people that made the MOST money were those who were selling mining tools, NOT the miners.

Now...the powerline shows you how FAST the company is growing because with this Pay Plan, everyone only has 2 front line positions in this fast filling company forced 2x14 Matrix and once when those two spots are filled, the ONLY place for everyone else to go is UNDER the ones who are already in there.

STIFORP just went into pre-launch and if you look at the 'Leader Board' you can see how much SUCCESS people are having. Some have already personally enrolled 5, 10, 20, 50 people...some with over 100 people.

Don't think you have to enroll a 100 people to make money...in fact, you can max out the Pay Plan with just TWO personally enrolled people. The point is, those leaders have only TWO front line positions and what that means to you is ALL of those other people are falling under EVERYBODY ELSE who is already in the matrix. So, all of the people you see under you in the powerline now, is NOTHING. Yes...you will go into the matrix before all of those people which is great, but that is NOT what is exciting !!

Let me demonstrate how this works...Please find the email that you have received from support@stiforp.com and click on the link in the email ( or simply login to your very own stiforP back office ).

Then click on the "Genealogy" tab ( or as a paid member click on "Company Momentum" tab on the left side of your stiforP back office ) at the top and you will see how many PAID Members have joined since you first pre-enrolled, as well as how many have just pre-enrolled since you did. Then look to the lower left corner and see...Click Here to See Everyone Under you in the Powerline.

NOW...what IS EXCITING is the HUNDREDS of people who will join next WEEK and the THOUSANDS of people who will join next MONTH and the potential of the HUNDREDS of THOUSANDS or even the MILLIONS OF PEOPLE who join over the next 12 months.

DON'T WAIT, JOIN NOW OR BE OUR FREE ENROLL HERE NOW

All of these people are going into the 2 x 14 matrix UNDER the people who are already in there...THAT is what the powerline is all about. Are YOU starting to understand that is what makes this POWERLINE system so POWERFUL and that is one of the reasons that STIFORP is one of THE FASTEST GROWING COMPANIES in this INDUSTRY?

AGAIN... Remember, there are OVER 100 MILLION Home Based Business Operators (Network Marketers) in this world and sooner or later THEY WILL need STIFORP.

Don't get excited about the 200 people that you see under you in the powerline, because MAYBE a few of those people will fall under you in the matrix, but that is NOT where the money is...what is SO EXCITING is the MILLIONS of people who are going to join this program in the next few years. THE ONLY PLACE for them to fall is UNDER the ONES WHO ARE ALREADY in there AND the people you introduce STIFORP to right NOW!

See you at the TOP.

10 Tips To Buying A Used Car.

2012-07-12T07:56:00.000-07:00

Hi all, I wrote this topic are because I want to share my experience in trading in used car market. Really hope it's can give some benefit to a used car buyer especially for the first timer car own.
There are some simple things to consider and steps to take, which will make the experience easier and help you avoid being scammed.

1. Determine your budget
Calculate how much you can afford to spend, and do not forget to include registration, insurance and routine maintenance and operational costs. Good for insurance, and if you're going to get a loan, shop around to get the best rate.

p/s: If you need an extra income why not join me at STIFORP

2. Do research
It is important to take a thorough look at what is before buying a used car. To get an idea of the standard market price, take the time to search our list of used cars online or in your local newspaper. See also our pricing guide to help you avoid paying too much.
Be careful if you find a used car, where prices are much lower than the market suggests they should. If you decide to go further, have the car checked thoroughly. If something seems too good to be true, it probably is.

3. Find a car
Find a car with a body type, or price to find out what make and model can be adjusted
Window shopping by brand and model, age, location ... and all sorts of other useful information
Read our expert reviews of car you're looking for
Check the latest news from the car to see if the new models are coming - which can reduce the price of older models when it comes.

4. Contact the seller
And when you do, do not be afraid to ask lots of questions ...
- How long do you have a car
- Why are you selling
- Never damaged
- What are the conditions in
- Can reach a RWC
- Do you have a habit of 'bad'

5. Looking at the car
If the seller is a private party, not a dealer, always go to your home. Do not arrange to meet somewhere. Make sure the address is the same as those in the certificate of registration. Taking a print or copy the seller's ad with you to check details such as accurate odometer numbers.

6. Reviewing the history of the automobile
No matter how sincere the seller appears, you should check the history to make sure that your car is not stolen, encumbered by a loan, or even earlier cancellation. Get the vehicle VIN number and check it against the database in the country in which it is registered. For a small fee (free in some countries), simple steps can save you a lot of money and trouble.

7. Checking the car
Make sure you have seen the depth in the same car, and best of all, they have an independent mechanic or automotive center will check it right on the crane. This can save thousands by revealing mechanical problems and previous damage.
- Always look on the car in broad daylight, never in the dark or rain that could hide the body marks, dents, rust and other defects
- Check under the hood and the vehicle interior carpet rust and other signs, such as welding marks - which may indicate that the car had been in an accident
- Under the hood, look for signs of oil leakage at the top of the machine, and at the bottom. Use the dipstick to check the amount of oil. If the level is low, the car owner has cared for properly
- Look around the oil filler cap, for the mayonnaise-like white substance - this is an indication of a damaged head gasket which can be very expensive to repair
- Look at the tires to ensure they are in good condition with plenty of tread
- Get off at the front of each front wheel and look along the car. Both front wheels should be directly in front of the back - if not, this could mean that the car had an accident and end up with a little twist or 'sour' chassis
- Check the difference between the body panels are the same - if not, the car can be repaired is bad, or has ever been in an accident
- In the car, make sure the seat belt works properly, the steering wheel and dashboard shot properly, the front seats move properly and all switches work
- Start the car with the engine cold, which would make it easier to reveal problems such as smoke or are too poor start

8. Test drive
- Before you leave, turn the wheel to the other blocks to ensure that there is no yelling, hitting, or by telephone
- To test the parking brake, pull it and then try to squeeze very gently. You have to keep the car back
- Listen to the strange noises from the engine, and do not let the seller distract you by talking or radio to
- How to do a lot of different road surfaces may be
- Use all the gears, and check the gearbox is smooth and soft
- Ensure that the 'bite' clutch pedal travel between the upper and middle

9. Negotiated Price
Price is the price, but often there is room for negotiation.
- Make a list of defects found in the car, or any work that may need to do, and calculate how much you can increase the price.
- From this position, negotiate the price with the seller.
- Ask the seller what their best price is the lowest bid and then say nothing. They can only either reject, accept his offer or name another price closer to you.

10. Documentation and payment
- Make sure all documents are in order, and has a version (not a photocopy) everything ... registration papers, service history and log books
- If you only make a payment or deposit, get a receipt and make sure all the details of the seller are in it
Never ... and never say ... deliver or send money to the seller regardless of a car, or without receiving a receipt with all the details.

That all 10 tips I can share for the used car searcher or buyer.

Drift competition

2010-11-22T11:30:00.000-08:00

Drifting competitions are judged based on line, angle, speed, and show factor. Line involves taking the correct line, which is usually announced beforehand by judges. The show factor is based on multiple things, such as the amount of smoke, how close the car is to the wall or designated clipping point, and the crowd's reaction. Angle is the angle of a car in a drift, speed is the speed entering a turn, the speed through a turn, and the speed exiting the turn; faster is better.

The judging takes place on just a small part of the circuit, a few linking corners that provide good viewing, and opportunities for drifting. The rest of the circuit is irrelevant, except as it pertains to controlling the temperature of the tires and setting the car up for the first judged corner. In the tandem passes, the lead driver often feints his or her entry to the first corner to upset the chase driver.
There are typically two sessions, a qualifying/practice session, and a final session. In the qualifying sessions, referred as Tansou (speed run), drifters get individual passes in front of judges (who may or may not be the final judges) to try and make the final 16. This is often on the day preceding the final.
The finals are tandem passes, referred as Tsuiso (chase attack). Drivers are paired off, and each heat comprises two passes, with each driver taking a turn to lead. The best of the 8 heats go to the next 4, to the next 2, to the final. The passes are judged as explained above, however there are some provisos such as:

Overtaking the lead car under drift conditions almost always wins that pass.
Overtaking the lead car under grip conditions automatically forfeits that pass.
Spinning forfeits that pass, unless the other driver also spins.
Increasing the lead under drift conditions helps to win that pass.
Maintaining a close gap while chasing under drift conditions helps to win that pass.

Points are awarded for each pass, and usually one driver prevails. Sometimes the judges cannot agree, or cannot decide, or a crowd vocally disagrees with the judge's decision.In such cases more passes may be run until a winner is produced. Sometimes mechanical failure determines the battle's outcome, either during or preceding a heat. If a car cannot enter a tandem battle, the remaining entrant (who automatically advances) will give a solo demonstration pass. In the event of apparently close or tied runs, crowds often demonstrate their desire for another run with chants of 'one more time'.
There is some regional variation. For example in Australia, the chase car is judged on how accurately it emulates the drift of the lead car, as opposed to being judged on its own merit, this is only taken into consideration by the judges if the lead car is on the appropriate racing line. Other variations of the tansou/tsuiso and the tansou only method is the multi-car group judging, seen in the Drift Tengoku videos where the four car team is judged in groups.

refference:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drifting_(motorsport)

DRIFTING GUIDE (TECHNICAL,SAFETY AND VEHICLE)

2010-10-24T19:07:00.000-07:00

If you are interested with drifting, here is some info for you as a reference about drifting guide if you are interested to join in a competition of drift. Before you start drift, a few things you need to know, that is about your car, safety and some equipment to make sure you were safe during drifting.

1. COMPETITION VEHICLE

-VEHICLE ELIGIBILITY

Only rear wheel driven (RWD) vehicles of any engine layout (FR, MR, RR)

are permitted. If vehicle is converted from an all-wheel-drive vehicle, front

drive shafts must be removed.Only monocoque chassis are permitted. Tubular space-frame modification to any part of the vehicle are prohibited. Open top convertible models must be equipped with a hard top.

-ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION

Engine modification is free. Engine from a different make or model may be used. Transmission and final drive modification is free. Only the rear wheels may propel the vehicle. Exhaust system modification is free. Piping must not go through the driver's compartment. The tip of the exhaust must be away from flammable material/object. All fluid system must be free of leak with radiator and engine oil catch can in place.

-INTERIOR

Dashboard must be present and retain OEM look if modified. SRS airbags must be removed. Gauges modification is free. Steering and shift knob modification is free. Steering 'quick-release' may be used. Door panels may be removed. Door must be able to be opened from the inside with the hinge easily accessible by the driver. All loose items in the vehicle must be removed. Spare tires must be removed. If weights are used, they must be secured in place.

-EXTERIOR

Body parts including bonnet, front fenders, rear fenders, front bumpers, rearbumpers, side steps, rear trunk may be replaced with fibreglass,polyurethane or carbon fibre composite. All lighting system including headlights, taillights and brake lights must be working. Lenses of glass material must be coated with a clear film or tape. Non OEM doors or inner door skin removed for lightweight is permitted with installation of a 'X' or 'NASCAR' style side impact bars. Both driver and passenger side doors must able to be opened from the outside with a visible hinge. The width of the rear wing shall not exceed the width of the car measured from the widest point. All sharp edges of the rear wing and canards must be rounded off. Windshield must be free of cracks and be OEM or OEM replacement. A minimum of one windshield wiper must be present and working. Two rear facing side mirrors are required. Door, quarter and rear window glass must be OEM or clear polycarbonate. Window nets may be used.

-SUSPENSION

Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) may be retained. All other driving aids an traction control must be removed. The use of a secondary brake system to operate the handbrake is allowed. Suspension components modification is free. Steering components modification is free.

-CHASSIS

The chassis may be seam welded. All holes in the firewall and transmission tunnel must be properly sealed to prevent fumes, fluids or fire from getting into the driver's compartment. Cutting/removing vital parts of the chassis that affect the structural strength of the chassis is prohibited. Wheel house may be tub or modified to allow extra turning clearance for the front wheels.

-TIRES

Tires must have a minimum tread wear rating of 140 UTQG. 'S' tire is not permitted. Tires may not be modify in any manner.

2. VEHICLE SAFETY

-ROLL CAGE

Vehicles must be equipped with a minimum of 6-point roll cage to protect the driver from a roll over. The roll cage may be constructed from steel or chromoly. Minimum diameter for the main hoop and front hoop is 40mm. Backing plate must be present if a bolt on roll cage is used, with all bolts

secured in place. A side impact bar must be installed on both driver and passenger side. If the inner door skin is removed for lightweight purposes or non OEM door is used (fibreglass, carbon fibre), a 'X' or 'NASCAR' side impact bars must be installed. Portion of the roll cage subjected to contact with the driver's helmet must be padded.

-FIRE EXTINGUISHER

All vehicles must be equipped with a 2 lbs fire extinguisher. Fire extinguisher must be secured and able to be released quickly within

reach of the driver. Fire suppression system may be used with the nozzles installed in both the engine and driver compartment.

-SEAT AND SEAT RAIL

Driver seat must be of non reclining full bucket type. Passenger seat may be removed. Seat rail may be welded or adjustable. All bolts securing the seat rail must be fastened. The seat assembly must be tight under a shaking force by hand.

-SEAT BELTS

A four point harness with a width of three inches must be present on the

driver side and mounted according to specification. Harness must be of quick release type. Harness may be bolted, mounted via an eyehook or a 3-bar adjuster to the structure of the chassis.

-BONNET PIN
Two(2) bonnet pins equally spaced across the front of the bonnet must be installed.

-TOW DEVICE

A minimum of one tow device must be present at the front and the rear of the vehicle. The tow device may be made of steel, strap or cable and must be able to withstand the weight of the vehicle being pulled. OEM tow hook may be used if they are easily accessible (i.e. not being

covered by body work) and highly visible. The tow device must be marked with an arrow in contrast of the body colour.

-FUEL SYSTEM

Fuel system design is free. The fuel system (fuel cell, pump, filter, surge tank) and all of it's components must be sealed from the driver's compartment. All electrical contact of the fuel system must be properly insulated.

-BATTERY

The battery must be secured mounted. If the battery is relocated, a battery box of solid material must be used to hold the battery and properly bolted to the body. The positive terminal of the battery must be insulated.

-CUT OFF SWITCH
A master cut off switch must be present to cut off all electrical supply and mounted in an easily accessible location. Ignition key may be used to shut off the engine. The cut off switch and/or the ignition must be clearly marked by an 'OFF' sticker to be easily identified.

3. DRIVER EQUIPMENT

-RACING SUIT

Driver are required to wear a one-piece driving suit (karting or racing) that

covers the body, neck, arms till wrists, and legs till ankles. The suit must be clean and in good condition (i.e. without torn) FIA homologated racing suit are highly recommended.

-HELMET

Full face helmet are required. Helmet must be in good condition and without crack, and must not be too big or too loose for the driver's head. Helmet must be worn with the neck strap securely fastened during track time.

-GLOVES & SHOES

Driving gloves that fully covered the driver's fingers and palm are required. Closed-toe shoes are required. Driving shoes are highly recommended.

MODIFICATION CONCEPT.

2010-10-14T08:32:00.000-07:00

VIP Style Cars

History:
VIP cars stated approximately thirteen or fourteen years ago in Japan. However, they were not known as VIP cars. Originally, VIP cars came from a team named Black Cockroach in Wakayama Prefecture. That team's cars were published in the national car magazine for the first time in Japan. The Black Cockroach had black Cima, Cedric, Celsior and Crown, which were very unique and exemplified the owner's personalities. Many have VIP cars tied to the Japanese mafia, better known as the Yakuza, to the beginnings of the VIP scene in Japan. Afterwards, a team named VIP Company evolved that belonged to Mr. Taketomi, the eventual owner of Junction Produce, a leader in VIP styling in Japan. It was popular in Osaka Sooner and later, Sendai city in Miyagi prefecture. The popularity of VIP cars spread to Sendai city and Young Auto magazine, which brought Chibaragi, a name of remodeling cars, to the public.

VIP Characteristics:
VIP cars can loosely be translated to “Low and Wide”. Many have argued that VIP cars can include European and even American cars. These can be considered VIP Style as long as they follow in the VIP guidelines, but they will never be VIP Platforms. Some general
characteristics of VIP Style are:

• Large/wide wheels (many times with big lips and low offsets) that are flush to the fender
• Stretched tires in order to tuck the wheels under the fenders
• Low stance via adjustable suspension or air ride
• Substantial body kits to achieve the “Wide” look
• Custom body work to accentuate the “Wide” look
• Custom video and audio components and installations
• Wood grain interiors with additional trays and extensions on the dash
• Custom seats and mats
• Additional and upgraded internal and external lighting
• Louder exhausts with larger tips
• Engine/performance work (though not as popular)

Here is some picture for your refferent of V.I.P style:

D.I.Y CORNER. (how to cleaning throttle body)

2010-10-10T14:44:00.000-07:00

Here is the way how to cleaning the throttle body of your car.

Please prepare the following before attempting to start this DIY:

1. New Throttle Body gasket.

2. Carburator Cleaner.

3. Rags

4. Spanar Size-10

5. Flat Nose Plier

6. Long Nose Plier

7. Phillip/Star Screw Driver (Optional)

A. Disconnect the 12Vdc:

Plug off ONLY the NEGATIVE Terminal on the battery. Make sure this terminal will not have any contact with the NEGATIVE Battery Terminal while ur doing ur work, with or without intention.

DO NOT attemp to proceed to the next step if u fail to do this step.

B. Removing the Air Ram:To do so, u will need spanar Size-10 or Phillip/Star Screw Driver to un-tighten the clip at both ends of the Air Ram.

C. Removing the Throttle Body:

Once Step-A was done, u’ll see the Throttle Body as described below:

We’ll start by removing the throttle cable:

Follow the instruction given on which way to pull in order to loosen the clips. This was described as “D”.

2. Done with the Throttle Cable and we’ll continue by un-plugging the connection socket for

both ISCV and TPS Sensors. Both these sensors are described as “B”. U might need to use

long nose plier to pull off the safety clip attached to the socket before attempting to un-plug

it off.

3. Proceed by pulling off the vacuum hose connecting camshaft cover non-PCV output to

the throttle body’s inlet just before the butterfly. This was described as “C”.

4. The next step would be to unscrew the throttle body’s mounting off the 2-bolts and 2-

nuts using a size-10 spanar. This was described as “A”.

5. Now the throttle body can be lifted up, but it is still attach with the coolant hoses. Plug

off the coolant hose thats attached with the throttle body with a flat nose plier. Dont be panic when coolant flowing out while this hose was unplugged, its just a minor volume and topping-up the coolant after this process will not be neccessary.

No picture was shown for this step as the coolant entering throttle body of mine had already

been by-passed since day-1.

Done with the last step and the throttle body is ready to be taken out.

D. Cleaning the Throttle Body:

This is what u’ll see at the upper end of the Inlet Manifold:

shown in the picture was the location of the MAP Sensor...just for knowledge sake.

On the throttle body itself, look at how dirty it is on both sides:

Also shown in the picture are The Do’s and The Dont’s.

To clean the TB, use ONLY Carb-Cleaner (or TB's Cleaner if u could find one). But

definitely NOT WD40!!!

Spray the Carb-Cleaner onto the inner surface of the TB, before and after the butterfly/flipper. Once most of the oil were almost removed, use clean piece of rag to wipe dry the inner part of the TB. There is a hole whc looks almost like by-passing the butterfly, this is meant for the ISCV. Spray and soak it with Carb-Cleaner few times until its clean. This is part of the solution to most of the idling problem.

Very important...DO NOT adjust the TPS screw, the one which was marked with paint. U dont need to directly spray the Carb-Cleaner onto the TPS as well.

This is how it looks after the cleaning:

Top View:

Bottom View:

E. Reinstall the Throttle Body:

Once everything had been cleaned, put it back as how you dismantled it earlier. It is advisable to change the Throttle Body’s gasket to a new set.

Revision of what had been unplugged earlier that should be plugged-on this time:

1. New gasket.

2. Coolant hose on the Throttle Body.

3. 2-bolts & 2-nuts size-10.

4. TPS & ISCV Socket.

5. Throttle Cable.

6. Air ram.

7. Re-connecting the NEGATIVE Battery terminal.

Before u put back the TB, juz look down on the inlet manifold...few inches after the Throttle Body, thats the MAP Sensor. You can clean its surface with clean tissue if u want, but to pull it out can be a little bit tough as there is a rubber O-ring attached onto it.

Here's how a MAP Sensor looks like:

Here’s another picture comparing the BEFORE & AFTER cleaning the Matched Port on the Inlet Manifold:

How often should this be done?

advise at every 20,000km average...

Hope this post can give you some info.